CHAPTER XII.

TOUR FROM THE WEST.

The Romanists--Miracles--Indians--Captain M---- The

unhappy sailor--Toledo--Cleveland--Buffalo--Niagara

Falls.

_Detroit, Monday, July 31._

The Roman Church has been supposed to be very strong here, but from

inquiries that I every where made, I am still more confirmed in the belief

that the papists at the west are making very little impression upon the

Protestant population. While they are attempting much, and with sinuous

effort endeavoring to identify themselves with every interest, they in fact

as yet, with all their marvellous reports to the Leopold Society, have done

but very little. That system cannot bear the light. It flourishes best

under arbitrary governments, and amid the thick darkness of ignorance. The

experiment is now making in this country, whether it can live and flourish

in Protestant and republican America without losing its essential and most

obnoxious features. The remark was made to me by a highly intelligent man

in Detroit, "that the absurdities that were swallowed ten years ago by the

Catholics there would be hooted at now." In illustration of this remark, he

went on to say, that about eleven years since he was present at the

cathedral where the former bishop was preaching, and endeavoring to prove

the doctrine of transubstantiation. Among other evidences to which he

referred was the following: "A few years previous," said this mitred

prelate, "in a certain city in Europe, a profane person procured one of the

consecrated wafers, and with carnal curiosity, after leaving the church,

broke it in two, when instantly a stream of blood issued forth, which ran

down his clothes, and stained his apparel. He went home in great affright,

but the stream of blood still flowed, and ceased not till in haste he

returned to the priest, and confessed his sin; then the crimson stream was

dried up, and its stain from his person removed." "This," said the bishop,

"happened in such a city, and there is such an individual now present who

lived in that city at the time, to whom you can refer for corroboration."

"It would be the utter ruin of their prospects," said my informant, "for a

bishop or a Roman Catholic priest to make such an assertion at the present

time. There is too much light now, even among the papists, to listen to

such a ridiculous story for a moment."

There is one point of view in which it is infinitely important that

Detroit, and many other towns situated similar with it, should have

pervading it a high sense of religious feeling. I speak with reference to

the influence which the tone of its morals must, and does exert upon the

many hundreds of Indians that annually visit it. These red men of the woods

are forming their opinions of Christianity from what they see at Detroit,

and St. Louis, and many of our western towns. They see among the white

population every thing to lead them to turn away with disgust from a

religion, professed to be drawn from the Bible. Their depraved natures

readily lead them to lay hold of the vices that abound among us, and they

go back to their tribes, carrying the impression that these are among the

fruits of Christianity. It is painful to see how degraded many of them

become in their intercourse with what is called civilized society.

Intemperance is the vice which they most readily fall into. Under its

baneful influence they seem to lose all the natural and noble traits of

their character. I saw in Detroit a stout built Indian playing the _merry

Andrew_ through the streets, hawking about a lump of ice, as though it were

a loaf of sugar, and calling for the highest bidder. As he staggered by I

could not but think how different he appeared from the native son of the

forest; that manly and noble bearing, that graceful and elastic step, that

grave, serious, and dignified look which sat so well upon the native

Indian's brow, and marked him as one of nature's true noblemen, was gone

and he had become a poor, degraded, drunken outcast and was trying to pick

up a few pennies by making himself a laughing stock to a crowd of idle

boys! What formidable barriers do the vices that still remain incorporated

with Christian communities present, to hinder the progress and extension of

the Redeemer's kingdom!

While at Detroit I met with two incidents, which I noted down at the time,

and which it may not be improper to record here. The one was an interview

with Captain M----, the popular author of several recent novels who is now

making the tour of the lakes. The gentleman whose kind hospitalities I was

sharing, had met with him on his way from Buffalo, and had also after his

arrival at Detroit, called to pay him his respects. It was certainly civil

in the captain to have returned the call, but it was shocking to the

feelings of Christian sensibility, that the time selected for this

reciprocation of civility, was during the sacred hours of the Sabbath.

Capt. M---- could not attend the place of public worship, for the day was

to be employed in returning his calls. He appeared to be addressing himself

to this in a business-like way. With a friend as his guide, and a carriage

to convey him, he was proceeding from street to street, carrying with him

his long list of names, and a bundle of visiting cards. All this was done,

of course, to show that he appreciated the attentions and civilities he had

received. When will men show as much respect to God and his institutions,

as they do to the worms of the dust around them?

The other incident was of a still more painful character. On the same

Sunday, just at the close of the day, there passed my window, a face that

called up the recollection of one whom I supposed had long since been

numbered with the dead. My first acquaintance with him was at the

commencement of my ministry. His father's residence occupied one of the

loveliest spots I had ever beheld on the bank of Lake Ontario. The house

and garden, and court yards, all indicated ease and opulence. This young

man was then a youth, the only son of his father, and cherishing large

expectations in relation to future wealth. He had been reared up under the

eye of a fond mother, who "would not let the winds of heaven blow too

roughly" upon him. His disposition was naturally amiable and vivacious, and

there were many to admire and caress him. But suddenly his prospects were

darkened. It was discovered that his father's estate was covered with

mortgages, and his affairs embarrassed beyond redemption. One piece of

property went after another, till the beautiful family residence was

alienated, and bankruptcy and poverty seemed now staring them in the face.

Mr. ---- had reserved a single farm unencumbered, which he now promised to

give his son. The young man, with a truly noble spirit, determined to

accommodate himself to the circumstances around him, and entered with

hearty zeal upon the cultivation of his farm with his own hands. He had

just become acquainted with some of the more common agricultural operations

and began to look forward to humble independence, when the astounding fact

was disclosed, that this farm too was under a heavy mortgage. In the

straitened circumstances in which Mr. ---- found himself, he had been led

to forget his promise to his son, and to alienate his last acre of land.

The young man's spirit seemed broken. He had unhappily contracted the habit

of moderate drinking. On his father's sideboard, while he was yet a boy,

there always stood a decanter of brandy, and every visitor who made a

morning, afternoon, or evening call, was urged to drink. The father and

son, to encourage their guests always drank with them. Thus this young man

contracted a love for ardent spirits. It was now the season of darkness and

depression with him. The mother who had watched over his childhood, had

gone down to the grave. The riches in which they once rolled, had taken to

themselves wings and flown away. The fond hopes he had cherished of rising

by his own industry, had been crushed. Poverty was staring them in the

face. This young man was without employment. Several years passed by, and

the prospects of this family did not brighten in a single particular. At

length the father went abroad. His family were left behind to shift for

themselves. He never returned. The son became more and more dissipated,

till in a fit of desperation he went to New York, and embarked on board of

a ship as a common sailor. Many a father and mother who knew this promising

young man, and witnessed his career up to this point, when they looked

around upon their own infant band, sighed and shook their heads, painfully

feeling that they could not tell what their children would come to. Young

---- went to the East Indies, and, it was said, was lost during the voyage.

I had never heard of him since. But as I sat by the window at this time,

the countenance and form of one that passed by, so strongly reminded me of

him, that I sent out a young lad to overtake him, and invite him to come

in. There soon entered one in complete sailor's dress, with loose

pantaloons, round-about coat, and tarpaulin hat, swaggering along,

evidently under the influence of intoxicating drink. He looked at me for a

moment, and then uttered my name! What was my astonishment and amazement!

Was this the gifted and talented young ----, whom I had first met in the

dwelling of courtly splendor--from whose father's hands I had received so

many expressions of kindness and acts of hospitality--over whose

pleasure-grounds, amid delightful shade and shrubbery, I had so often

roamed? Was this that noble, gifted boy, in relation to whom such high

hopes were formed, and who had naturally such generous and kind feelings? I

had thought the waves of the deep had long since rolled over him! But no,

there he stood, a perfect wreck of what he once was. His eye was glassy,

and his breath fetid and offensive beyond endurance. He seemed to be

conscious of the degradation he had brought upon himself, and by an evident

struggle and effort of will, did succeed in throwing off the symptoms of

present inebriety. I found that he had visited every part of the world, and

had suffered every thing but death. He had been imprisoned in Chili, and

cast away on the shores of western Africa. I spoke to him about his soul.

He seemed much affected, and shed tears. After a few moment's pause, he

said, "I have been a very wicked fellow, but I have never lost the early

impressions I had in relation to my responsibility to God. The little

Testament my sister gave me, I have kept when stript of every thing else. I

have read it when the other sailors around me were asleep. I knew they

did'nt understand my feelings, and they would only laugh at me. I have

often prayed, but then I would soon become as wicked as ever. I have

thought of you, sir, often, and of the sermons I used to hear. When I sat

naked on the burning sand in Africa, I thought of many serious things,

which I had heard from your lips, and I tried to pray. Yes, that was an

awful time! We were cast away--our vessel was lost--three or four of us got

ashore and were saved. But we were immediately stript of every rag of

covering, and for three months I wandered over the sands of Africa, naked

as when I came into the world, and living as I could snatch a little fruit

here and there. I at length found my way to Liberia, and was sent to

America by the Governor of that colony."

He then told me that for several years past, he had been on the lakes. I

asked him if he was happy. He said "No, never, except in a storm, when

every thing around me seems going to destruction. Then I become excited and

feel a sort of mad happiness." I entreated him to bethink himself of his

ways, and turn unto the Lord. He said he did not think it would do any

good; that he was too far gone, and that if he prayed ever so much, or made

ever so many resolutions, in a few days he was as bad as ever. I endeavored

to point out where the difficulty lay. He went to church with me that

evening, and seemed solemn and affected. Poor fellow, I know not what will

be his end! I fear there are many youths of our land going on just in this

same path.

_Cleveland, August 2d._

Yesterday I took leave of Detroit on board the steamboat "United States"

for this place, which we reached this morning. On our way here, we visited

Toledo, in Ohio, which stands on the Maumee River, about ten miles from its

mouth. This is a place of some notoriety, but although we stopped there

several hours, I found very little to interest me. There were not a few

indications that it was a place where iniquity abounded. Though a place of

considerable size, the institutions of the gospel have found very little

foothold as yet. I was told, though I cannot vouch for the correctness of

the account, that some time ago, when an effort was about being made to

establish some religious society here, a public meeting was called, and

they voted that they would have no such thing in their town. I hope they

have come to a better mind before this.

Just before we entered the Maumee River, we passed a light house that had

been erected on a bare and barren bank of sand, of about an acre in extent,

which had risen up in the midst of the surrounding waters. On this barren

spot there is a solitary dwelling, the residence, I presume, of the keeper

of the light-house. There is something very striking in this lonely

residence, pitched in the midst of a wild waste of waters, and forcibly

reminded me of the state of the Christian in this life, whose habitation is

often in some desolate place, some lonely spot amid a surrounding moral

desert, but always where he can answer some useful end, can tend upon some

light-house to direct the path of tempest-tost mariners towards the haven

of rest.

We also touched in our way to Cleveland at Sandusky City and Huron. It was

my original intention to stop at one of these places, and make an excursion

through the northern part of Ohio, taking Gambier in my circuit. I felt an

increased desire to visit that place, after learning as I did in Michigan,

the important influence the institution there is silently exerting upon the

west, but I found it necessary to deny myself this pleasure for the want of

time. From what I heard of Kenyon College, I should think that the standard

of attainment there was very high, and that they had wisely guarded against

the custom too common in the west of hurrying the student through a rapid

and superficial course of studies, and conferring upon him a degree at a

time when he ought to be regarded as a _sophomore_. The course of studies

at this institution is very thorough, and the faculty able and talented.

Kenyon College cannot fail to prove a most powerful auxiliary to the cause

of learning and religion in the west, and its influence for the interests

of the Episcopal Church will be more extended than any of us of the

present generation can compute.

With Cleveland I have been decidedly pleased. It is principally built on a

high table of land, that looks boldly off upon the far-stretching and

majestic waters of Erie. It has a population of about eight thousand; its

houses are generally handsome and well built. It is separated from Ohio

City by the Cuyahoga river, a stream into which the steamboats run up,

which stop at Cleveland. Ohio City is a pleasant town, having between two

and three thousand inhabitants. They are here erecting a fine stone edifice

for an Episcopal Church. This place appears to bear the same relation to

Cleveland that Brooklyn does to New York. Unhappily there is no small

jealousy between the two places, which it is hoped the experience of a few

years will cure. Some of the streets in the eastern part of Cleveland,

looking off upon the lake, are beautiful beyond the power of description.

_Niagara Falls, August 3d._

In passing from Cleveland to Buffalo over Erie's green waters, we touched

at several interesting points, but I omit any description of them or of

Buffalo, which has grown up into a large and beautiful city. I have spent

the day most delightfully here, silently musing on these vast waters that

leap with giant stride over this mighty precipice of rock. I had thought

that these falls, when I first gazed upon them from Table Rock, some four

years since, possessed all the conceivable elements of sublimity, but I

never understood their full grandeur and majesty till I looked at them

to-day, and remembered that the water of all those lakes upon which I had

travelled more than a thousand miles, was pouring in one gathered column

over that precipice! Then, immediately, I felt that the tremendous roar,

that rose deafening around me, was the voice of God! I saw that it was His

hand that had gathered those waters, and poured them with such resistless

force over that vast precipice, and the thought then flashed upon my mind,

"How will he speak to impenitent sinners when he riseth up to judgment? How

will they escape from his mighty hand when he poureth out his fury like

fire?"

Just then a rainbow met my eye that lay beautifully pencilled on the

foaming flood below. I remembered it was the bow of promise; and new

emotions of gratitude were waked up in my heart, when, at the very moment I

was surrounded with such demonstrations of almighty power, and such vivid

proof that God could with the breath of his mouth hurl the guilty down to

bottomless perdition, I was reminded by the bow that lay on the bosom of

the foaming gulf, that through the mercy of God in Christ there was a way

for poor sinners to escape! Oh that they might be prevailed upon to lay

hold of the hope set before them, and not rush madly on to the precipice of

eternal death!

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