THE OHIO NEAR ITS MOUTH.
New Albany--Sailing down the Ohio--Profanity--Lovely
views of nature--A sudden squall on the river--Kentucky
shore--Young fawn--The mouth of the Tennessee
river--The swimming deer--His struggle and
capture--Meeting of the waters of the Ohio with the
Mississippi--Gambling--Intemperance--Sail up the
Mississippi to St. Louis.
_New Albany, Indiana,
Tuesday Morning, June 27, 1837._
Indiana is unquestionably destined to become one of the most interesting of
the Western States. Its principal towns that stand along on the Ohio, must
of course become very important points. This will be particularly the case
with New Albany, which is already one of the most populous and flourishing
towns in Indiana. It bears on every part of it the marks of a new place,
and the manner in which every house and shed within its precincts is
crowded, shows that it must have expansion. It is situated about four miles
from Louisville, just below the rapids, on a fine broad table of land,
which is so far above high water mark, as effectually to secure it from
those inundations, occasioned by the sudden rise of the Ohio. Some way
back in the rear of the town, and nearly encircling it, rises up in a very
picturesque manner, what is here called _a knob_, an elevated steppe of
land, from which we look down upon the town and river, and see them spread
out before us as on a map, in distinct and beautiful delineation.
Louisville appears in the distance, and the adjacent country, which with
the windings, and wooded scenery of the beautiful Ohio, presents a view so
exquisite, that the imagination can scarcely conceive any thing more
romantic.
It is only three or four years since there were but a handful of
inhabitants at New Albany: it now numbers six thousand, and is rapidly
increasing in population. A very large proportion of its inhabitants are
young, enterprising men from the East, who possess moderate means, and have
come here to build up their fortunes. How important to bring such minds
under the influence of the Gospel! This is a centre from which influences
for good or evil will go forth through the state, and I believe it may be
truly said, it is one of those fields that "are white for the harvest."
I met Bishop Kemper at Louisville, on his way to hold an ordination at
Madison, another interesting town in Indiana, on the Ohio, between
Louisville and Cincinnati. The bishop purposes to devote two or three
months between this and autumn to Indiana. He appears indefatigable in his
efforts to promote the good cause, and every tongue through the whole west
speaks forth his praise, and cheerfully accords to him the high encomium of
a _zealous, devoted, and holy man_. There are now seven or eight Episcopal
clergymen in Indiana, and the cry still is, "The harvest is plenteous, but
the labourers are few."
_Steamboat, Tuesday Evening, June 27th._
It was about three o'clock to-day, that we started on our way from
Louisville, down the Ohio. It was excessively hot, and I experienced a
languor and sense of exhaustion, which I do not recollect ever before to
have felt. When the sun began to decline, and we again found ourselves
gliding as by enchantment over the surface, and sweeping through the midst
of the beautiful scenery of the Ohio, I felt that I had passed into a new
world. As I traversed the deck of the boat, and saw reflected from the
smooth and mirror-like bosom of the river, the luxuriant foliage, rich and
dark by its own deep verdure--the smooth green bank that sloped down to the
water's edge, as though to kiss the smiling surface that slept so quietly
below--the abrupt precipitous bluff, starting up like a mound of earth, or
a wall of solid masonry--and the head-land sweeping off into sloping woods
that towered in majesty above the stream, I could not but feel, and could
scarcely refrain from exclaiming aloud, how beautiful and surpassingly
lovely are the works of God! What must the heart of that man be made of,
who can pass through the midst of such displays of divine beauty, and
pollute the very atmosphere as he passes with profanity! This is what
hundreds are daily doing. Almost all the hands on board of the steamboats,
down even to the little boys, utter an oath almost every other word.
_Profane swearing_ is one of the crying sins of this western world. Oaths
the most horrid are awfully common among all sorts of people. Amid these
scenes of varied beauty where creation appears so lovely we may truly say,
"* * * Every prospect pleases
And only man is vile.
In vain with lavish kindness
The gifts of God are strown."
Men pass here in thousands, and mindless of all these tokens of a
wonder-working Deity, continue to live as though there were no God in the
Universe, or as if He existed only to afford a theme for more aggravated
profanity. And yet looking at the matter, aside from the native depravity
of the human heart, one would think that the spontaneous effusion of every
intelligent mind whose attention was directed to this scene, would be, as
he looked around, "Surely this is the teaching of the mighty God! May
lessons be impressed upon my heart by the outspread volumes before me,
which no mutations of time, no excitement of passion, no fascinations of
the world, no devices of the Evil one will ever efface. Eternal Creator,
here among this green, boundless, majestic temple of thy works I renew the
consecration of myself to thee, soul, body, and spirit. While these rivers
roll their waters towards the sea--while a spear of grass grows in these
fields--while a tree on these wooded banks is clothed with foliage in the
vernal month--yea, while the solid earth lasts, and the cycles of eternity
move on, with thy grace will I live only to serve and glorify Thee."
_Wednesday, June 28th._
While we were leisurely sailing along to-day, the weather being
oppressively warm, and the heavens very bright and sunny, and not a breath
of air stirring, pyramids of snow-white clouds began to be piled up in the
northern and western sky. These masses of cloud seemed heaped together in
every fantastic form. They towered aloft like huge mountains of snow. What
added to the interest and singular appearance of the scene was, that this
arch of the snow-pillowed sky sprung directly up from a boundless sea of
verdant foliage that stretched interminably around. Through these masses of
white cloud, there occasionally appeared large interstices, like deep
caverns, opening into the blue profound!--long vistas through which we
could seem to catch a view of the inmost heaven. Suddenly a tremendous gale
struck us; the waters of the calm Ohio were thrown into the utmost
commotion, and the wind came down upon us with a power that threatened to
shiver the steamer into a thousand atoms. The heavens gathered blackness,
and the whole dark firmament presented a surface every now and then lit up
with a sheet of the most vivid fire. The waters ran very high, the wind
roared, and the thunder was awful. The captain very prudently sought the
shelter of the shore, and our boat was soon fastened by a strong cable to a
tree. Then the rain fell in torrents, as though the waters of the river
itself were scooped up and poured upon us. We learned that a few days
before, not far from where we were, a steamboat had been capsized by a
similar flaw of wind. We were soon again on our way, moving beneath a
bright and benignant sky, and fanned by a gentle and refreshing breeze. How
much our course down this river resembles human life! I cannot stay to make
the application, but will only add that they only are wise who seek the
shelter of God's presence as a hidingplace till the storm be overpast.
We stopped towards evening to take in wood on the Kentucky shore. We there
saw for the first time the native cane-brake. A wood-cutter's hut was near.
A little ragged boy came out followed by two large dogs, and a little pet
fawn. The dogs seemed to be fond of this little innocent thing, which had
been taken only two or three weeks before. It seemed as it skipped along,
and played around the footsteps of the child, very affectionate and
confiding. Oh! that hardened sinners were transformed into a nature as
mild, and gentle, and sweet as this little fawn! The power of Christ
through the gospel can alone accomplish this.
Just at nightfall we passed the steamer Louisiana in distress. She had run
upon a reef of rocks, and was in a sinking state. I cannot but here record
the mercy of God which has followed us thus far in our journeyings.
Steamboats have been blown up, and fired, and sunk, all around us since we
started, and yet the Lord in boundless mercy has preserved us.
_Thursday, June 29th._
When I awoke this morning, I found the boat was taking in wood at Paducah,
just at the mouth of the Tennessee, having passed the Cumberland river in
the night. We were now approaching a scene of interest that we had been
long anticipating--the meeting of the waters of the Ohio and "the father of
rivers." The morning was rainy and unpleasant, still we were constantly on
the alert, eagerly intent upon seeing every object of interest around us.
While thus looking abroad, an affecting scene presented itself to us. The
Ohio here, having received its last large tributaries, had become very deep
and broad. Its banks were covered with tangled underwood, and dense
forest-trees--presenting a scene of unbroken wildness. Now and then a
woodman's hut was visible on the shore, and a little boat fastened to the
bank. A deer, bounding with the fleetness of the wind to escape his
destroyers, had reached the river's edge. What could be more natural than
that, as his pursuers pressed on, he should plunge into the midst of the
flowing stream! How cool and grateful must have been its waters to him thus
panting and faint! But will he find safety here! No. His pursuers are again
upon him. Having seized two little skiffs they eagerly press on to reach
him. We saw them gliding through the waters towards him. Again he puts
forth all his energies, and dashes through the waves like an arrow through
the air. The effort he is making is for his life. But the strong arms that
ply the oars, send forward the little barques which contain his pursuers
with a velocity that seems to cut off the hope of escape. Now they are upon
him! one boat is in advance of him, and the other rushing towards him. His
destiny seemed sealed! But no--he is gone! He has darted to the depths
beneath, and risen far beyond the furthermost boat! He is exerting every
nerve to reach the shore! A few moments more, and his point will be
gained--he will be bounding through the Kentucky woods! No. Hope again
dies! His pursuers are again upon him--the boat is again between him and
the shore. His strength is exhausted. The uplifted oar with dreadful stroke
has fallen upon his head. The hands of his fell pursuers have grasped his
horns, he is dragged up into the boat and the huntsman's knife has made a
deep incision in his throat. He pants, and struggles, and expires!
I said to myself--the sinner is pursued by sin, and satan, and passion,
like that chased deer. There is no escape for him but in Christ. Oh what a
happy, blessed hour of deliverance is that when the arm of mercy is reached
forth to pluck him from the hands of his destroyers!
It was about nine o'clock this morning, when we first come in sight of the
Mississippi. The waters of the Ohio had seemed muddy to us, but now they
appeared clear and limpid compared with the muddy and discoloured stream
which we were about to enter. There it was before us in all its
magnificence, "the mighty father of rivers!" When our steamer touched its
waves, it was with us a moment of deep and intense interest. We now turned
up to breast its impetuous current which swept proudly along by us in
foaming eddies. Every part of the river seemed turbid and thick with mud,
and we could not understand how these waters could hold so much soil in
solution. I shall never forget my sensations, when, shortly after we
reached the Mississippi, I saw one of the boatmen draw up a pail full of
this muddy water, and putting his lips to the vessel drink it off with
apparent relish. I afterwards found it was the only water drank on board
the steamboats, and in the towns situated on this river. I also found that
after it was filtered, it was the most delightful water that I ever drank.
One cause of its turbid appearance is the large portions of magnesia it
holds in solution. This water derives its peculiar characteristics from
the Missouri. Above that stream the waters of the Mississippi are clear and
limpid.
I have already spoken of the annoyance to which we were constantly
subjected from the profanity of those we encountered. And I may now add
that, gambling is another of the vices that are rife here. On our way from
Louisville to St. Louis there has been one incessant scene of gambling
night and day. We have evidently had three professed gamblers on board. I
am told that there are men who do nothing else but pass up and down these
waters, to rob in this way every unsuspecting individual, they can induce
to play with them, of his money. We saw one victim fall into the clutches
of these blacklegs. He was a young merchant, I believe, from Chilicothe,
Ohio. He was first induced to play a simple game of cards. A slight sum was
then staked to give interest to the game. He was allowed for awhile to be
successful and to win of his antagonist. He played on till he became
perfectly infatuated. He would hardly stop long enough to take his meals.
Being fairly within their toils, large sums began to be staked, and this
young man did not see the vortex into which he was being borne until he had
lost six hundred dollars. In this deep gambling, physicians and judges who
were present participated. What will our country come to, with such
examples before the people! After being shut up for two or three days with
such company, I thought how horrible it must be to be shut up in perdition
with such characters forever! Surely the very presence of such men, with
their depraved passions in full play, would of itself constitute a perfect
hell! Another crying sin, which abounds on board the western steamboats,
and is fearfully prevalent through every portion of this western region, is
_the free and unrestrained use of ardent spirits as a drink_; usually on
board these western steamboats whiskey is used just as freely as water. All
drink. The pilot--the engineer--the fireman--all drink. The whiskey bottle
is passed around several times a day, and then the dinner table is loaded
with decanters. I am satisfied that more than two-thirds of the disasters
that occur on board these steamboats, are attributable to this free use of
ardent spirits.
I know it will be natural to ask, can nothing be done to arrest the
progress of these mighty evils? A gentleman at St. Louis, Captain S----,
has embarked in a noble effort to do this. Last summer he ran a boat from
Galena to St. Louis, with these avowed principles--that the Sabbath should
be sanctified--that wherever the Lord's day found them, there they would
tie up their boat and remain till Monday--that no ardent spirits should be
brought on board the boat--that no profane swearing should be allowed, and
no card-playing permitted. He remarked to me that the exclusion of ardent
spirits removed the whole difficulty--that where there was no intoxicating
drink, there was very little disposition to indulge in profanity or
gambling. This gentleman has now raised forty thousand dollars, and hopes
to bring it up to one hundred thousand in order to establish a line of
boats on the same principle from Pittsburg to New Orleans. I do believe
that this is one of the most important enterprises of the present day, and
that the religious interests of the west are vitally connected with it.
Captain S---- remarked to me, that no class of men, after the clergy, could
exert such a prodigious influence for good or for evil, in the western
valley, as the captains of steamboats. If they were only pious men, there
is no telling how much they might do, every trip they made, to promote the
cause of the Redeemer.
If something be not speedily done at the west to prevent the profanation of
the Lord's day, there will soon be no Sabbath. At the principal landing
places along the rivers, business appears to go forward on the Sabbath just
as upon any other day. Professors of religion are deeply involved in this
sin. Goods are carried to and from their ware-houses at noon-day, and their
clerks are busy in the counting-room while they are at church. Facts of
this kind I do not guess at, but _know_. Will not God visit for such
things? Oh what will become of our land when God riseth up to judge the
earth?
The whole character of the scenery, since we entered the Mississippi has
become changed; the banks of this great stream are low and marshy. They are
generally covered with dense forests and tangled underwood, and present the
appearance of nature in its untrodden wildness.
_Friday, June 30th._
We to-day made a short stop at a place which bears the name of _Western
Philadelphia_. There were some half dozen buildings, and two stores. It is
only about nine months since the settlement commenced. Chestnut and Market
streets were pointed out to us. Their course was through a flourishing
cornfield, the stalks of which were so luxuriant and lofty, that we in vain
essayed to reach their tops with our hands.
There are more signs of cultivation visible, as we passed along, on the
Missouri than on the Illinois side. The banks as we proceed up the stream,
occasionally rise into high bluffs--especially in Illinois--towering aloft,
not unlike the palisades on the Hudson. Frequently one rock is piled upon
another to such an elevation, that the summit of the bluff juts over the
river, as though it were ready to tumble down upon the heads of those who
were passing along on the quiet stream beneath. This is particularly the
case as we enter the lead country which commences some time before we reach
St. Louis. These lofty towering bluffs that rise up so perpendicularly,
projecting over the river, afford every convenience for forming natural
shot towers. We saw several of these lofty cliffs that were thus used. A
little box was erected upon the summit of the rock, where the molten lead
was poured down through the mould, into a little tub on the shore beneath
to receive the shot as they fell.
As we slowly wended our way up this mighty stream we found the shores
adorned with flowers, and covered with cane-brake and thick underwood. We
also saw the trees loaded with grape-vines--and many of them completely
matted over with ivy, woodbine, and misletoe. The luxuriance of vegetation
seemed so great, as not only to cover the earth, but to lift itself up
suspended in the air.
We passed to-day St. Genevieve, a French village standing on a beautiful
hill-side. The loveliest prospect stretched out before the town. We could
from this point see the broad Mississippi in its magnificent course
piercing the boundless forests of eternal verdure, and spreading out its
watery surface upon which a hundred green islets seemed to float. The town
itself, like all the French villages that we have seen on this river,
appeared old and dilapidated, and quite destitute of every thing like
improvement, or enterprise. I could not but contrast these French villages,
in the midst of this rich luxuriant land, with their little Roman Catholic
chapels, their low narrow houses, and abundant marks of poverty, with the
neat, tidy, thriving villages of New England, which, although they rear
their heads from a hard rocky soil, where industry has to be taxed to the
utmost to obtain the means of subsistence, present--in their beautiful
church edifices--their elegant public buildings, and well constructed
private residences--marks of thrift, industry, and comfort, which cannot
fail to gladden the heart of the traveller who passes through them. Such is
the difference in their influences between Protestantism and Romanism.
Twelve miles before we reached St. Louis we passed Jefferson barracks, a
military station on the Missouri shore, located on a beautiful swell of
land.
Carondolet is another French village on the banks of the Mississippi,
around which every thing appears ruinous and poverty stricken.
At length St. Louis rose to view, and we hailed the sight with no ordinary
sensations, not only as it was to be our resting place for awhile, but as a
point of exceeding interest in this vast western world.