PREFACE.

Lest this description of the River Murray should appear in some points

to differ from the accounts of other travellers, it may be necessary to

observe that the present little work is merely a _Journal_ or daily

record of what the writer observed during his voyage up the River, which

was at the time considerably flooded, though it had not then attained

its highest elevation, which occurs about December.

The English reader may also bear in mind that rivers in England are not

the scale whereby to estimate the streams of other portions of the

globe, or even of Europe, and that some of the larger rivers of that

Continent are in like manner subject to the vicissitudes of dry seasons

and partial floods.

This occurs particularly in Spain and in the South of France, as, for

example, in the Rhone, which is materially influenced by the seasons in

its volume of water.

In more tropical climes the difference is still greater; thus, the rise

of the Nile is sometimes not less than thirty-eight feet, that of the

Euphrates twelve feet, that of the Tigris twenty feet; whilst in India

the large rivers are also increased or diminished in a considerable

degree during the dry and wet seasons.

The English reader, therefore, the writer would again repeat, should not

be surprised at hearing of the easy navigability of the greatest

Australian river, or wonder that other works have stated the stream of

the Murray as quite insignificant and ill adapted for steamers.

The voyage of the _Lady Augusta_ steamer has proved the fact of the

navigation being open for at least six months during a very dry season,

and no doubt can exist that in ordinary years the River Murray may be

used by steamers for at least seven months.

A system of embankments and occasional canals at a more distant day,

when labour shall become abundant, will probably lay open the course of

the river for a still longer period, although the present navigability

has been deemed sufficient for all immediate purposes of traffic.

The first Navigators by Steam of the River Murray; or, a List of the

Passengers, Officers, and Crew of the "Lady Augusta" Steamer and the

"Eureka" Barge.

Passengers.

His Excellency Sir H. E. F. Young, Lieutenant-Governor of South

Australia.

J. Grainger, Esq., M.L.C.

Wm. Younghusband, Esq., M.L.C, and Agent for the Murray Steamers.

R. Davenport, Esq., M.L.C.

A. Kinloch, Esq., Clerk Executive Council.

Geo. Palmer, Esq., Indian Civil Service.

Geo. Mason, Esq., Sub-Protector of Aborigines.

E. W. Andrews, Esq., _South Australian Register_.

Travers Finnis, Esq.

James Allen, Esq.

Regd. Bright, Esq., (left the party at Swan Hill).

H. Jamieson, Esq., of Mildura (joined the party on the river, at his

own station).

Mrs. Finniss.

Mrs. Younghusband.

Mrs. Irvine.

Miss Sarah Younghusband.

Miss Eliza Younghusband.

Miss Louisa Younghusband.

Isabella Williamson.

Officers and Crew of the "Lady Augusta" and the "Eureka" Barge.

Commander, Francis Cadell.

_Lady Augusta._

Wm. Davidson, Master.

Wm. Webb, Chief Officer.

R. Napier, Engineer.

Thomas Nevin, Seaman.

Henry Petrie, ditto.

Robert Robson, Stoker.

Evan Thomas, ditto.

Wm. Cruise Teague,[1] Stoker.

Lewis Chandler, Chief Steward.

John McAulay, Second Steward.

Jemy, Native of China.

Wm. Gylmour, Cook.

_Eureka._

Edmund Robertson, Master.

J. H. Copeland, Chief Officer (a native of New York).

John Nelson, Purser (native of New South Wales).

Jimmy (South Sea Islander).

Tee Harry (South Sea Islander).

Hy. Winsby, Carpenter.

Neil McGregor, Carpenter's Mate (from New Brunswick).

Arman (Madrassee).

Kurreem (Bengalee).

James Giles.

Three Wellington Blacks.

One Police Trooper, John Phillips, joined the party, on duty, at Mr.

Chapman's Paringa.

Total--Forty-five persons.

JOURNAL

OF

VOYAGE ON THE MURRAY.

Amongst the anomalies which may be said to distinguish the continent of

Australia from other inhabited portions of the globe, not the least

remarkable perhaps has been the almost unnoticed existence of one of the

longest and most navigable rivers in the world. This river is the

Murray, which, deriving its sources from the deep gorges over which

Mount Kosciusko, the loftiest of the Australian Alps, rears its snowy

crest, pursues its placid course for upwards of two thousand[2] miles

through the Colonies of New South Wales, Victoria, and South Australia,

until, losing its channel in the broad but shallow Lake Alexandrina, it

eventually finds a passage for its waters through the boisterous surges

which beat upon the shores of Encounter Bay. This great stream,

exceeding in the extent of its course the Ganges, the Indus, or the La

Plata, three of the longest rivers in the world, and with thrice the

development of the Rhine, the Rhone, or the Elbe, is fed also by

tributaries, which, in magnitude and, during certain seasons, in

navigability, may not be much inferior to those European streams. These

are the Darling, the Lachlan, and the Murrumbidgee; of which the first,

rising in the vicinity of Moreton Bay, in about latitude 28° and

longitude 152° 30' (and with tributaries reaching almost to the tropic),

after stretching for about half its course, or near one thousand miles,

in a west and south-west direction, descends at length to join its

waters with the Murray, in latitude 34° 10' and longitude 142°.

The second, the Lachlan, rising in the Blue Mountains, near Bathurst,

trends to the north-west, but eventually unites with the main river,

about 200 miles in a south-easterly direction from the junction of the

Darling, and after having been previously swelled by the waters of the

Murrumbidgee for a distance of 150 miles. This last river, which issues

not far from the Maneroo Plains, east of the Australian Alps, at a point

more distant still than the sources of the Murray, has a tortuous course

in a westerly direction for many hundred miles, with a stream described

by Captain Sturt as rapid and impetuous until its junction with the

Lachlan, in longitude 144° 20'. If it should prove navigable by steam,

the advantages that would accrue to the adjacent province could hardly

be inferior to those anticipated from the opening of the water

communications of the Murray.

In addition to the streams which thus increase the waters of the Murray

throughout its sinuous course, it enumerates among its tributaries many

rivers which, from their length, if not from the varied country they

traverse, cannot but be deemed interesting, if not important. Such are

the Lodden, Campaspe, Goulburn, Mitta-Mitta, Ovens, and others,

including the Lindesay, first noticed by Captain Sturt, and which,

passing through much auriferous country, severally and conjointly water

about two-thirds of the province of Victoria, or a superficial extent of

more than 50,000 square miles.

Independent, moreover, of these minor affluents which swell the drainage

amount of the river Murray--a basin stretching from near the 25th to the

36th parallel of latitude, and from the 139th to beyond the 152nd degree

of east longitude, an estimated extent of 540,600 square miles,[3] or

nearly seven times the superficial extent of Great Britain--there exists

in close connection with the main stream a network of rivers which may

perhaps have been destined to fulfil those purposes which the vagaries

of Nature have transferred to the parent river. These are denominated

the Edward, Logan, Wakool, and Neimur Rivers; which, having a more

direct course than the Murray itself, would, but for their unfortunate

termination, after some hundred miles in a shallow creek, at no very

distant period, have proved themselves of inestimable value to the

internal prosperity of the adjacent provinces. As it is, nothing but a

superabundant population will probably succeed in turning these streams

to a useful or, at least, a navigable end.

The Murray, thus combining within its basin nearly the entire drainage

of the province of Victoria, with a large portion of that of New South

Wales, and much of the eastern part of South Australia, appears to have

been unknown to British Colonists before 1830, when Captain Charles

Sturt, of the 39th Regiment--one of the most ardent and intrepid

explorers the world has ever seen--whilst tracing the source, or rather

course, of the Murrumbidgee, by order of the Sydney Government, came

upon this noble river; to which, in honour of the then Colonial

Secretary, the distinguished Sir George Murray, he gave its present

name. His party, on this occasion, consisted, himself included, of no

more than eight individuals, a portion of whom were convict prisoners,

the main body of the expedition having been left (January 7th) in depôt

at the Murrumbidgee, with instructions to repair, after a few days'

delay, to the Goulburn Plains, from whence a communication might be

maintained with Sydney. Captain Sturt's means of transport were

comprised in a whale boat and small skiff, built in seven days on the

Murrumbidgee, and with these means and a stock of provisions barely

sufficient, it afterwards appeared, for subsistence, this determined man

did not hesitate to follow the course of the Murray to its mouth; this,

after many obstacles, in the Murrumbidgee, from the "snags" or sunken

logs with which it was encumbered, and, at that season, it appears from

the rapidity of the current, and in the main river (which averaged 200

yards in breadth) from the unequivocally hostile demeanour of the

numerous tribes of natives encountered on its banks, he reached in

thirty-two days, from the depôt. Thence, after traversing the broad but

shallow lake in which the Murray terminates before reaching the sea,

finding it useless to attempt to force a passage in his frail boat

through the dangerous navigation of the sea mouth, or hopeless of any

advantage to his party, even were it effected, he took the decided,

though perhaps inevitable, course of retracing his steps up the stream

and thus returning to the depôt of his party; who, he conceived, would

then be in search of him. With an aching heart, but a firm will, as

Captain Sturt himself relates, was this resolution carried into effect,

and after thirty-nine days from the sea, on the very day his stock of

flour had failed him, and when his party were all but incapable of

further exertion, he fell in with his people, who had been summoned to

his aid by two of the heroic crew who had shared his dangers and

privations; and whom, as a last resource, he had dispatched to seek the

depôt.

The length of the water passage thus effected was eighty-eight days; and

Capt. Sturt estimated the distance traversed on the different rivers at

2,000 miles, during which, with the exception of the timber on the

Murrumbidgee, and the rare occurrence of a sandspit on the main stream,

no obstacle to steam navigation was discovered. The official report was

forwarded to Sydney, and published by the Government, and is to be found

appended to Capt. Sturt's own narrative of his adventurous voyage.[4] No

steps, however, appear to have been taken by those in authority to

render available the great discovery which the energies of this brave

man had thus rendered patent to all.

At length, in the year 1850, Sir Henry Young, the Lieutenant-Governor of

South Australia, an officer of enlarged ideas and considerable knowledge

of geographical subjects, acquired during a lengthened service in many

parts of the world, appears to have taken up the matter, and brought it

before the Colonial Legislature. In September and October, 1850,

accompanied by the Surveyor-General of the Province, and some friends,

including ladies, His Excellency ascended the Murray as far as its

confluence with the Darling, or above 600 miles, and found it navigable

with ease throughout that extent, with a breadth varying from 180 to 300

yards, and a depth of water of from two to four and even five fathoms.

The project, in the mean time, had been opposed by the Legislative

Council; who, actuated, it would seem, by mistaken views of the real

interests of the Colony, objected especially to the appropriation of

£20,000 from the Land Fund, in the construction of a tramline to connect

the Murray at the Goolwa with the conveniences of the harbour at Port

Elliot--a distance of nearly eight miles. Sir Henry Young was, however,

fortunate enough to obtain the approbation of the Secretary of State for

the Colonies to the proposed scheme, as also the general good opinion of

the Colony in favour of the Murray navigation; whilst, with regard to

interference with the supply of labour, as alleged by the opponents of

the project, the recorded opinion of Earl Grey, that "the execution of

the work could not fail to promote the sale, at an enhanced price, of

the land benefitted by the proposed communication," must have been

particularly gratifying to His Excellency. Moreover, as His Lordship

observed, "the funds applicable to the purposes of emigration would

assuredly be increased, and labour itself economised by providing for a

more expeditious and less costly mode of conveying produce to a place of

shipment, from an extensive and important district."

The necessity of the harbour at Port Elliot arises from the difficulty

of navigating the Murray sea-mouth at all times or seasons; nor, indeed,

is it probable that any undertaking will thoroughly overcome this

obstacle, until a crowded population or an overflowing treasury shall be

enabled to cope with the difficulty by concentrating the waters of the

Murray in a narrow and more rapid channel in place of their, at present,

vague and diffused passage over the broad but shallow surface of Lake

Alexandrina. A natural breakwater has rendered the formation of the port

in this locality inexpensive; but to be perfectly secure in all winds,

the barrier against the sea should be extended by a further addition to

the present ridge of rocks, in the shape of a breakwater arm. Labour is,

however, at present so costly, that no likelihood exists of this purpose

being speedily effected. An application to the Admiralty for the

assistance of a man of war's crew in the formation of a secure port at a

point likely soon to become of considerable importance, might perhaps be

deemed irregular: though with the existing dearth of labour, if likely

to be attended with success, it were well worthy the consideration of

the Executive. Indeed, it may here, _en passant_, be observed that, in

all human probability, the day is not far distant when to the exertions

of the sister services of the Mother Country--the British Army and

Navy--Australia must owe the greatest and most beneficial changes her

destinies have as yet demanded.

As to the tramline to connect Port Elliot with the Goolwa, it will

probably be finished in less than six months' time; and at a total cost,

all necessary expenses included, of about £23,000.

To return to the more immediate subject of the Murray navigation. The

descent of this river was partially effected from the township of

Albury, situated 400 miles south-west from Sydney, by Mr. Richard

Gerstacker, in a gum-tree canoe, at a time when "the stream was lower

than ever it had been since the white man approached its banks." Mr.

Gerstacker, whose progress was stopped by the sinking of his canoe on a

"snag," informs us that he left Albury, on the 5th May, 1851, in a

gum-tree canoe, drawing about eleven inches water; and that throughout

the distance he accomplished, there would have been water for three or

four inches further draught. The river, however, being unusually low,

the stream appeared filled with "snags," or dead gum trees, some of

which obstruct the navigation to such a degree that steam power would be

necessary to dislodge them. Below the Murrumbidgee these impediments,

the writer reports, for the most part ceased, and after the junction of

the Darling scarcely one was to be seen; whilst the sharp bends, so

embarrassing to steam navigation, were no longer met with--the river,

though tortuous, offering wide sweeps which afford plenty of "sea room"

in mid-channel, even for steamers of considerable size. Sandbanks,

however, occasionally occurred up to the North-west Bend, but not in

mid-channel.

Mr. Gerstacker, whilst confessedly unacquainted with the resources of

the Murray district, or the probable requirements of the settlers on its

banks, is yet of opinion that the navigation of the river would be the

means of drawing a largely increasing population to the Murray, not to

say, the probable cause of augmenting in an incredible degree the zeal

and efforts of the present inhabitants, no longer left in a state of

isolation and comparative abandonment. Moreover, it may be added, the

dray journeys for the transport of wool, produce, and supplies, being

not only most tedious, but beset with difficulties, considerable returns

for goods and passengers would be the certain result of a regular water

communication.[5] Mr. Gerstacker, after referring to the energetic

efforts which, in North America, have cleared almost impassable streams

from the impediments of fallen timber, &c., concludes by saying, that

except in an extraordinarily dry season, even the upper part of the

Hume, or Upper Murray, as far as Albury, usually contains sufficient

water, during eight months of the year, to float boats drawing four or

five feet; but he leaves it to those acquainted with the resources of

the country bordering these rivers to decide whether sufficient

remuneration would be afforded to steamers thus accomplishing the

navigation.

The favourable statements of many settlers on the Murray might be added

to the statements of Mr. Gerstacker, but the question has now received a

more direct solution by the successful voyage of the _Lady Augusta_

steamer; before narrating which, some retrospective glance is perhaps

requisite.

The opposition in the Legislative Council of South Australia to the

immediate navigation of the Murray and the consequent outlay at Port

Elliot and the Goolwa appears, after a time, to have ceased; and in

June, 1851, a premium of £4,000 was offered by the Legislature to the

first and second iron steamboats of not less than forty horse power, or

more than two feet draught of water, which should succeed in navigating

the Murray from the Goolwa to, at least, the junction of the Darling.

This liberal offer, it seems, however, was not taken up, possibly from

the difficulty of providing boats of the requisite material, and the

Murray navigation was apparently deferred _sine die_. At length, Captain

Francis Cadell, formerly commander of the _Queen of Sheba_ and the

_Cleopatra_ steamer (1,500 tons), entered into the matter with an

evident determination to carry it through. He laid on a small steamer at

Sydney, of above eighty tons burthen, forty horse power, and three feet

draught of water when loaded[6]--proposed to the Legislature of South

Australia to carry his boat through the sea mouth--to navigate the river

to the Darling (600 miles) twelve times in the year; or to perform six

trips as far as Swan Hill, a distance of 1,250 miles from the sea. For

the first performance he was to receive £500; for the passage up to the

Darling, £1,000; and for the subsequent eleven or six trips, a further

sum of £1,000--the whole in quarterly payments. These terms, proposed by

himself, having been recommended to Sir Henry Young by an address from

the Legislative Council, were approved of by His Excellency, who gave

his assent to the apportionment of the stipulated premium for the

prescribed object.

Captain Cadell then proceeded to the river, carrying with him from

Melbourne a canvas boat, twenty-one feet in length and three in breadth,

which, on arrival at Swan Hill, he put together, and having obtained a

crew of four returning diggers, dropped down the Murray, and after

visiting every station and ascertaining the probable traffic to be

derived from each, in the matter of wool, produce, rations, stores, &c.,

reached the Goolwa in twenty-one days. There he arranged the

construction of a small vessel of about 100 tons capacity, to accompany,

as a lighter, the little steamer _Lady Augusta_, which in July, 1853,

was navigated round from Sydney, by Mr. Davidson, formerly master of the

_Hawk_ schooner; and, indeed, not the least extraordinary portion of

this undertaking has been the voyage in midwinter by so small a vessel,

of nearly 1,100 miles, through a sea at all times boisterous, and often

most adverse even to the best and most weatherly craft. The round-house

which occupies three-fourths of the _Augusta's_ deck, renders her on

this account by no means fitted for the open sea; whilst it affords

admirable accommodation on board for sixteen cabin passengers, including

ladies, for whom a commodious after-cabin has been reserved.

These preliminary matters having been duly arranged, and the _Lady

Augusta_ pushed through the sea-mouth by Captain Cadell, a party

including His Excellency the Lieutenant-Governor, some Members of the

Legislative Council, with ladies and other friends, was arranged to

accompany the meditated expedition up the Murray, which, the return

voyage included, it was supposed would occupy about five weeks.

August the 19th, accordingly, His Excellency, accompanied by Mr. J.

Grainger, of the Legislative Council, and the writer, left Adelaide to

ride to the Goolwa, a distance from the capital of rather more than

sixty miles. The road--generally indifferent, after ascending some fine

open downs--passes through Noarlunga, on the Onkaparinga, a thriving and

most promising township; and the first day's halt took place at

Willunga. This is one of the prettiest spots in the province, and well

adapted to become, at a future and not very distant day, the resort of

those inhabitants of Adelaide, who shall have the good taste or the

leisure to exchange the dust, the heat, and the glare of a provincial

town for the pleasing verdure of a country scene, rendered here

particularly attractive by park-like glades and a charming sea-view.

A new inn would, however, be required; the accommodation of the "Bush"

being quite insufficient for the traffic. On this occasion, the house

being otherwise occupied, His Excellency took up his quarters for the

night at Mr. Kell's; Mr. Grainger finding a bed with the clergyman of

the district, a Mr. Burnett.

A few miles beyond Willunga, the country is of the richest description,

combining the most attractive forest scenery with far extended land and

sea views. From thence onward, however, it deteriorates sadly,

terminating in that dreary expanse of bush and sand, which is here

denominated "scrub." Descending to the Encounter Bay coast, a slight

improvement takes place; and after emerging on the tract of land, over

which runs the new tramline from Port Elliot to the Goolwa, some

excellent pasture appears, which must soon assume a valuable character

in connexion with the River Murray and the works in progress in this

district. His Excellency repaired at once on board the _Lady Augusta_,

which we reached about three p. m., there to await the arrival of

Captain Cadell and party, who were to come down the following day and be

present at the launching of the _Eureka_, as the new vessel built on the

Goolwa by Messrs. Wisby (two brothers), formerly the carpenters of the

_Cleopatra_ steamer, had been styled. Some delay, however, occurring

with regard to this ceremony, Sir Henry Young repaired to the house of

Mr. Laurie, the harbour agent at Port Elliot, where, with Mr. Grainger,

he remained some days. The launch commenced on the 23rd; but, rather to

the disappointment of the young lady destined to perform the

bottle-breaking ceremony, and with the expenditure of some pretty

tri-coloured silk, the _Eureka_[7] was only finally brought alongside

the steamer on the morning of the 24th.

On the evening of the 25th, the _Lady Augusta_, with a full complement

of passengers, and including the _Eureka_, which was towed alongside, an

aggregate number of forty-three persons, steamed off from the Goolwa

Jetty, amidst the cheers of the assembled settlers of the district, many

of whom had traversed long distances to witness the departure of the

first steamer on the waters of the Murray.

It was calculated that 300 persons were present at the launch; and,

previous to the departure of the boat, a _déjeûner_, by a large and

respectable number of the community, had been given to Captain Cadell,

in honour of the enterprise he had engaged in, and as a mark of the

sense entertained by the public of the zeal and energy with which he had

carried on his measures.

To particularize the features of this trip by a diary of the daily

proceedings on board, or by the diurnal progress of the little vessel

against the stream, would be tedious and uninteresting. Comprising good

cheer in abundance, and, with hardly the exception of an unfavourable

day, unvaried fine weather, our passage up the river could not afford

much scope to the imagination, or offer a prolific subject even to the

highest descriptive powers.

[Illustration: MELBOURNE.]

[Illustration: ADELAIDE.]

The Murray is a noble stream; but, at the present day, not a

particularly interesting, or, at any rate, a highly picturesque river.

The banks throughout are pretty, sometimes even romantic, but from the

sameness of the forest trees--consisting chiefly of gum tree glades--and

the expanse of flooded surface through which, at this season, the vessel

passed, the scenery cannot but be regarded as generally tame. The

reaches, nevertheless, at times are fine, and, here and there, cliffs of

moderate height, varied colours, and perhaps grotesque shape, occur to

break the monotony of an otherwise interminable flat. The volume of

water rolled down by the Murray is imposing, the breadth of the stream

after passing Lake Alexandrina (a sheet of water about thirty miles in

length and twenty-five in breadth), averaging from 150 to 300 yards; the

current is ordinarily from two to three knots per hour; and the course

of the river, after the first 250 miles, tortuous in the extreme. The

steamer generally came to anchor in the evening, about nine or ten

o'clock; and started in the morning, before dawn. Wood had been

provided, at certain stations, by previous arrangement; at other points,

parties from the vessel went ashore to provide fuel, the consumption of

which averaged about three fourths of a ton per hour. It took 168 hours

steaming to reach the Darling, where we arrived at midnight, on the 6th

of September, under sail and steam; the distance being calculated at

about 650 miles from the Goolwa. On the point of reaching this station,

we managed to upset a native canoe or "mungo," propelled by a black and

his "lubra," or spouse. The former scrambled up the vessel, but the

female was compelled to swim to the shore. The man being asked why he

had not attempted to assist his dusky helpmate, answered, with the

utmost composure, "Plenty cold; black lubra walk well!" So much for

native gallantry. The blacks on the Murray are not now so numerous as

formerly, infanticide prevailing among them, it is said, to a great

extent; indeed, we observed but one child in our passage up to the

Murrumbidgee.

The principal stations, up to this point of the voyage, had been Mr.

Mason's, Wellington; Mr. Walsh's; Mr. Scott's, Moorundee; Messrs.

Chambers', Wigley's, Chapmans', Moruna, the Jackson's (commonly called

Bob and Harry's), and the inn at the Darling (McLeod's). Here blacks

were generally found in greater or less numbers; and, as far as we could

learn, they had everywhere proved of service to the settlers. They are

protected by the Government, and to a certain extent fed and clothed;

but the issues of blankets and flour, in South Australia at least, are

as yet too scanty. Several of these people were taken by Captain Cadell

up the river, to assist his crew in procuring fuel, and they proved

useful and obliging upon these occasions.

No accident, save the temporary indisposition of some of the ladies of

our party, and Captain Davidson's unfortunate entanglement of his foot

in the machinery, occurred to interrupt the serenity of our voyage; some

atrocities, however, committed by the natives upon white men, had, it

appeared, disturbed the tranquillity of the river. Mr. Scott, the

Government officer from Moorundee, we found, had been in pursuit of some

of these malefactors, and from this gentleman, whom with his brother we

encountered at Chapman's Station (Paringa), we learned that one of these

natives had been wounded desperately in an attempt to escape from the

police; and that another had been killed by the settlers, whilst

endeavouring to arrest him. A third, captured by one of the Adelaide

police, we conveyed to the Darling, where he was handed over to Mr.

Fletcher, a Magistrate of New South Wales[8], whose professional

services (for he had formerly been a medical practitioner) had been

called in request on Mr. Davidson's account. This gentleman, who lived

fifteen miles from McLeod's, where a tolerable inn and some good horses

were discovered, was sent for at His Excellency's request, and in

obeying the requisition unfortunately received a fall from his horse,

which, though inflicting no severer injury than a bruised forehead and

face, must have been sufficiently annoying to spoil the pleasure which,

in common with all other settlers upon the river, he evidently derived

at the arrival of the steamer. His services, I may also mention, were

called into play by the sudden illness of one of the ladies of our

party, whose rashness in bathing, at an early or unseasonable hour

appears to have been followed by serious though brief indisposition. Mr.

Fletcher spoke with some degree of feeling of a barbarous murder

committed by a black, about ten days before, upon a white man, whose

horse he had undertaken to guide through a ford. Indeed, these acts of

reiterated villany call for the active interference of the Sydney

authorities.

The land on the Murray to this point (the Darling) is all occupied,

chiefly by large stock proprietors or squatters; for agriculture,

whether on account of the excessive dryness of the soil, or for want of

labour, appears little attended to. The settlers seem to want energy in

their pursuits, but perhaps the badness of the communications hitherto

with a market, and the uncertain tenure of their runs, may explain their

inactivity. Irrigation and embankment could not fail to improve the

land, but if there existed no means of disposing of produce, it is

easily imagined why these labours have not been tried.

On this subject, or rather with regard to the present system of land

allotment, I may here observe, that His Excellency, after proclaiming,

as the "Hundred of the Murray," the two miles frontage on each bank,

proposes to offer for public sale blocks of land of from ten to 640

acres, granting to the occupiers a commonage in rear of their property

for pastoral purposes. It is probable that such an alteration in the

existing system of leases may induce a larger proportion of settlers to

look to the Murray for their locations.

With respect to the much-engrossing pursuit of gold digging, which now

occupies so large a portion of the population of these two Provinces

(Victoria and New South Wales), it would seem that further discoveries

are likely to take place. A Mr. Paterson, or a Mr. Walsh (I am not

certain of the name), who visited us at the Darling, mentioned as a fact

that a nugget of three or four ounces weight had been picked up on the

upper Darling, by one of the settlers, in the ranges which abut on that

river, and as quartz hills exist still further back, it is not

improbable that considerable gold deposits may be found in these

localities.

The animal and vegetable kingdom of the Murray is apparently not

productive in uncommon or very peculiar productions. Of the four-footed

inhabitants of the bush, up to this point of our trip (the vicinity of

the Thirteen Lakes[9]), I have heard of none being seen by our party,

save and except one solitary kangaroo. Ducks and quail are abundant; the

former comprising the musk, black, and wood duck, teal, and widgeon.

These are netted by the natives with considerable success; the plan of

action being, I understood, to spread the nets over the mouths of the

creeks or brooks, and then drive the birds towards them. Wild turkeys

are said to be plentiful near the lakes, which are numerous on some

parts of the banks, but none have as yet been seen. The white cockatoos

are numerous, and occasionally a pretty parroquet has been observed.

These, with pelicans, cranes, and sometimes, though rarely, a swan,

comprise the chief portion of the feathered inhabitants of the Murray

and its banks, but very small birds, unknown by name to those on board,

have been also seen.[10] The fish of the Murray consist chiefly of the

cod, perch, and cray fish, with a few small turtles, and, in the

adjoining lakes, a kind of smelt. The cod is of large size and weight,

and well tasted. The most delicate fish is, however, found in the

Darling--the name I could not gather.

The timber on the Murray is almost entirely confined to the gum, of

which there are three varieties--the white, red, and flooded; and

occasionally a few pines. Edible roots are found by the natives, and

comprise a considerable portion of their food; but the only fruit, as

far as I could learn, in use amongst the whites, is that called the

"quandong"--a species of wild peach, which is largely used as a

preserve. Wild flowers are generally abundant.

At MacLeod's we embarked some cargo for Mildura; and several natives

were taken on board, and one woman whose conjugal affection seemed very

prominent. The males were, many of them, fine tall men, with very

muscular limbs, huge beards, and unsightly countenances. It is a pity

the Governments of the respective provinces, which occasionally issue

blankets and rations to the Aborigines, do not extend their protecting

cares still further. A supply of clothing, however scanty--were it only

a long blue shirt--would be a blessing to these poor savages, who appear

at times to suffer considerably from the keen cold air of the Australian

wilderness; nor would it, we may presume, render them less disposed to

the ameliorating influences of civilization and mental improvement.

In South Australia, considerable progress has been made in the

intellectual and moral training of these degraded people, which has been

chiefly owing to the exertions and indefatigable zeal of Archdeacon

Hale, at Port Lincoln, where the seminary for their instruction exists.

Many failures, of course, have taken place, particularly amongst the

females; some of whom, after serving as domestics for several years,

apparently most contented with their lot, have suddenly disappeared from

their houses to seek refuge in the woods, and then relapse into their

pristine barbarism--nature is invincible, it would seem.

From the Darling junction our course was marked by as few incidents as

had hitherto fallen to our lot. I find my daily memoranda somewhat to

the following effect:--

Wednesday, September 7th.--Left the Darling, which we found a fine broad

stream with considerable depth of water,[11] after having taken in a

large quantity of very indifferent wood--the steaming, in consequence,

slow.

During the night and following morning, heavy rain fell, penetrating

even to the interior of the cabin, probably owing to the excessive

dryness of the decks, caused by the heat.

Thursday.--Towards four p.m., arrived at the Messrs. Jamieson's station,

Mildura, pleasantly situated on a turn of the river, about fifty miles

by water from Macleod's. Mr. Jamieson, who appears to be thoroughly

acquainted with the resources and commercial statistics of the river,

which he most obligingly has communicated without reserve to all on

board, joined us here with a native servant, in order to accompany the

expedition as far as Swan Hill, 600 or 700 miles further. About this man

hangs a tale, establishing, I think, a fact, which, though generally

credited with regard to native propensities, has not perhaps been

thoroughly authenticated. I allude to their cannibal habits. The man,

who goes by the name of Mickie, himself tells the story. He says, that,

returning on one occasion from Melbourne, where he had been serving as a

police trooper, he fell in with some natives of the Loddon tribe, one of

whom, following him, and threatening to spear and eat him, he attacked

and killed.[12] This effected, he was not content with his triumph, but

did actually eat a portion of the man's body--a part of his kidney

fat--which he pronounced good eating, and not unlike pork and duck. Nor

does it appear that Mickie was thus prompted for want of food, or from a

specific predilection for such a meal; but rather because he imagined

that thus would be infused into him his enemy's strength; and that,

moreover, the skin which he lavishly distributed amongst the natives of

his tribe, would prove a charm for his fishing nets.

The settlers about the Darling appear desirous of coming under Adelaide

jurisdiction. The fact is, they are so distant from Sydney, that they

imagine themselves quite neglected by authority, and entirely cut off

from all legal jurisdiction. What difference the advent of the steamer

upon their waters may cause in their ideas, is yet to be seen.

Undoubtedly, it is a source of unmingled satisfaction to all settlers

here; indeed, we are told of some who actually meditated the abandonment

of their runs, in utter despondency at the impracticability of

transporting their wool produce to a port,[13] or even of obtaining the

supplies necessary for their subsistence. Dancing on board the _Eureka_

till half-past ten.

Friday.--Took in a quantity of pine wood, about five tons, for fuel;

and, after passing Williams's, arrived at (Carwarp) Messrs. McGrath's, a

station occupied by three brothers; who, from the condition of common

labourers, have raised themselves, by their industry, to a position of

comparative affluence. They are the possessors of 10,000 sheep on this

run, about the numbers which are depastured at Mildura. The weather

continues cold, though dancing was kept up for an hour in the evening.

The cabin was much crowded at this station; and some of our party

addicted to going early to bed, complained a little of the disturbance

on board.

Saturday.--Morning cold. Reached Messrs. Keane & Orr's (native name

Kulkyane), where we remained till early on Monday morning. The natives

at this station were numerous, and some of them apparently intelligent,

but in appearance disfigured, if that is possible, by the circles of

white clay which they had drawn round their eyes and noses. This, we are

informed, is symbolical of mourning for deceased relatives--perhaps the

unfortunate children who are, it is said, so often slaughtered.

Monday.--Steamed on to wooding station, in a picturesque country with

high banks.

At four a.m. on Tuesday, September 13th, the Captain reported a comet in

sight, which, after considerable incredulity on behalf of some of our

party, was at length acknowledged to be a most brilliant meteor. Euston

Township (Nowong), so called after the Grafton family, we reached at ten

a.m. It is a Government reserve, and seemed a fine clearing, though as

yet the settlement is comprised in the Commissioner's house, an inn,

some huts, and a black encampment. Mr. Cole, the Crown Commissioner,

received nearly all our party with great politeness, showed the ladies

over his quarters--a log house, not impervious to the weather, but

otherwise comfortable, if not pretty, which, indeed, none of the

stations are; he then produced some wine, eggs, and lastly a salad. Here

we obtained a sight of some newspapers, the latest from Melbourne, of

the 23rd of the previous month.

The ladies were invited to see two specimens of the "lowen" or "luanna,"

a bird resembling in some degree the pheasant of Europe, and also

reckoned of delicious flavour.[14] The peculiarity of these birds is,

that the hen does not hatch her own eggs, but buries them in layers of

sand, whence, after a little time, the process is effected by heat. The

Commissioner--whose district contains about 70,000 sheep, 15,000 or

16,000 head of cattle, and nearly 300 horses--complains of the

impossibility of completing his establishment of white police,

notwithstanding the liberal allowance of the Government to troopers,

which amounts to 5_s._ 6_d._ daily, in addition to rations and quarters;

he is, however, he tells us, to be joined by a European sergeant

immediately.

From this point, Euston, there was, until lately, a post to Sydney and

back, which, while it lasted, was conducted with rapidity; the floods,

however, have been so troublesome, that it has been recently given up.

The blacks here were numerous, and two-thirds of them, at least,

disfigured with their mourning marks. Some of them were dressed in

uniform as police troopers attached to the Commissioner. Mr. Cole, with

a Mr. Morey, who has 7,000 sheep contiguous to the Government reserve

(twenty-five square miles), came on board to dinner, when our

commander's champagne flowed freely; they afterwards accompanied us up

the river some miles. The comet was reported very brilliant about four

a.m.

Wednesday.--We reached the station of a Mr. Ross at an early hour. Here

some shearers, who were rather the worse of their early potations, were

inclined to be troublesome. Captain Cadell turned one of them out of the

fore cabin without ceremony; and, shortly after, three of these men,

endeavouring to aggravate some of the crew whilst taking in fuel, and to

prevent the natives from giving their assistance, received from them a

well-merited chastisement, which, though to a looker-on it might appear

unnecessarily severe, had yet a well-timed and useful result. Nothing

but a rough and summary mode of proceeding would be effectual with such

people, whose conduct might destroy the comfort of all decent classes of

passengers. They were probably _ci-devant_ convicts, or, as they are

here termed, "old lags." At this station, we heard that 7,500 store[15]

sheep had been brought over from Bathurst (500 miles), for the

convenience of shearing, and afterwards transshipping the wool clip to

Adelaide. We took in a stock of wood lower down the river, and, after

passing Mr. McCullum's station (Wella), where there are 13,000 sheep,

pursued our onward course towards Swan Hill.

From the junction of the Murrumbidgee, or rather of the Logan or

Wakool,[16] up which we steamed a short distance, the volume of the

Murray diminishes, and its sinuosity increases; but the steamer made

good progress on her way, anchoring about half-past twelve a.m., on

Thursday morning, the 15th September, in mid-channel, with a strong tide

running. Here we had lain perhaps an hour and a-half, when all on board

were awakened by an awkward lurch of the _Lady Augusta_, which upset the

cabin tables, and created considerable confusion in the dark. Some

inquiries were made as to the cause of the unusual position of the

steamer (for she did not right herself), but no steps were taken to

ascertain the real cause of the accident, and all was attributed to the

strength of the tide. Some, however, were not satisfied with this

solution, or found sleeping on an inclined plane disagreeable; and,

after the lapse of nearly half an hour, it was discovered that the _Lady

Augusta_ had made considerable water, which, rushing to one side, had

caused the "list" complained of. The pumps were then set to work, as

also buckets, and the hold eventually cleared of water. It appeared that

some valve connected with the engines had been left unclosed--whence the

shipment of so much water. At dawn, we had been passed by a little

steamer, called the _Mary Ann_, which indeed had been seen lying

off-shore the previous night. We found her again at the station of a Mr.

Phelps. She is an open boat, apparently about fifty feet in length,

carrying two masts, and fitted with an engine, by her owner, a Mr.

Randall, whose enterprising talent, and skill in navigating his little

craft, are highly to be lauded. At this station we found an old

"man-of-war's man," a Mr. Reynolds, who had been so long away from

civilised pursuits, that he said he hardly knew a steamer by sight. He

supplied us liberally with milk and butter. I understood him to say that

he had been thirty-six years in the Colony. Mr. Phelps's brother is

accounted a large sheep owner in this district, being the possessor of

an extensive "run," and about 17,000 sheep.

Lest the term "run" should not be clearly intelligible to some

non-Australian readers, it may be here observed, that it is an extensive

tract of country devoted to sheep-breeding, and held on lease from the

Government for a term of years. Its chief excellencies are, of course,

pasturage and good water; moreover, it must, at least, be capable of

carrying 4,000 sheep, or an equivalent number of cattle--extra £2 10_s._

per annum for every additional 1,000 sheep, or proportionate increase of

cattle.

For this run, the owner takes out a licence of occupation, at a rental

proportioned to the number of sheep or cattle which the district is

calculated to support. The capabilities of the location are estimated by

a Commissioner of Crown Lands, and a half-yearly assessment is also laid

on all the live stock at the station--a halfpenny per head for sheep,

three halfpence for cattle, and threepence for horses. Formerly, the

holder had the option of purchasing, at any time, the entire run at

twenty shillings an acre; but this law has now been altered and, as some

think, amended, by the impossibility, under the present system, of the

existence of a race of licensed settlers, or leaseholders, in

perpetuity, who might have been likened to the Crown feudatories of the

middle ages, and paid an annual quit-rent for their possessions. These

landholders are termed in Australia, "squatters." In these runs, which

sometimes equal in extent an English county, and usually about the

centre or frontage, stands the homestead, a rude wooden building, with a

garden, stores, offices, and adjacent stock or farm yards. A spacious

grass paddock, and some smaller ones for tillage, all enclosed with a

post and rail fence, with a large shed for shearing the sheep and

storing the wool, are also necessary adjuncts of the head-quarters. The

two great epochs of pastoral life are the lambing and shearing seasons;

the latter duty having been performed annually by a distinct class of

persons, who went about from station to station to be hired for this

work. Since the gold discoveries, however, this duty has been in some

degree performed, with considerable difficulty at times, by the settlers

themselves. Independent of the head-quarters or head-stations on these

runs, there are usually what are called "out-stations," with small

flocks of from 500 to 1500 sheep, in charge of two shepherds and a

hut-keeper; who, whilst the former tend the sheep, looks after the

yards, cooks the victuals, and watches by night against the attacks of

the "dingo," or wild dog--the most destructive of Australian vermin.

The cattle grazing is carried on generally in a different part of the

run, by a stockman, who is provided with a hut-keeper. The chief

requisite here is a firm seat on horseback, and great activity of body,

as the cattle are much disposed to run wild, and are often with

difficulty collected. Both cattle and sheep were annually slaughtered in

great numbers, and boiled down for tallow, which was readily bought up,

by foreign merchants, for the London market, and became an article of

large export. The price of wool and mutton has, however, now put an end,

or nearly so, to this custom. To improve the feed of a cattle or sheep

run, recourse is often had to firing the country; and this practice,

apparently singular in so dry a soil, is said to be effectual.

As a remarkable instance of the nature of Australian occupations, or the

ups and downs of fortune, the list of shepherds given by a writer, in a

certain district, is worthy of notice. They comprise "an apothecary, a

lawyer's clerk, three sailors, a counting-house clerk, a tailor, a Jew,

a Portuguese sailor, a Cingalese, a barman, a gentleman's son, a

broken-down merchant, a former Lieutenant in the East India Company's

Service, a gipsy, a black fiddler, a dancing master. Of these the

gentleman's son, the Jew, and the barman made the best shepherds."[17]

This summary of sheep farming--the substance of which is taken from a

series of very good papers upon Australia, relating chiefly to New South

Wales--is also applicable, in most respects, to the banks of the Murray,

and I therefore introduce it here.[18]

Leaving this digression, our first station yesterday (September 15) was

that belonging to Mr. Hamilton. It appeared very populous. Towards

evening the river became tortuous in the extreme; indeed, with the

breadth the _Lady Augusta_ and _Eureka_ occupy upon the water (forty-two

feet), steering the vessels, without a check, through the narrow curves

and opposing branches, which continually met us at every point, was

almost an impossibility. The weather, which had been lowering since

morning, in the evening became perfectly tempestuous; and, amidst

flashes of lightning, occasional peals of thunder, and sudden gusts of

wind, little else was heard but the crashing of the opposing trees, or,

in the deep tones of our commander, the often repeated words, "stand by,

below;" "stop her;" "turn a-head, slow;" and at length the welcome

order, "full speed." Thus, for some hours, did we advance, dimly lighted

by an overcast moon; and the storm at length abating, without any other

mishap than some slight damage to the _Augusta's_ funnel, and the

destruction of part of the _Eureka's_ rails--thanks to Captain Cadell's

perseverance--we were enabled to hold on till two a.m., about which time

we made fast alongside the station of a Mr. Coghill.

To-day (Friday, September 16), steamed on, with some difficulty, through

the endless sinuosities of the river, now narrowed to an average breadth

of seventy or seventy-five yards, but still affording near four fathoms'

depth of water. At some points, indeed, we were delayed a considerable

time, from inability to stem the current in so contracted a space,

without becoming entangled in the surrounding wood. Altogether, I am

inclined to think that the passage of the river for steamers, such as

that in which we now voyage, will be difficult above the Murrumbidgee,

except during the flooded season, or about five months in the year. To

improve the navigation, however, much might be done by the passage up

the stream of a small boat (such, for instance, as the _Mary Ann_)

provided with means to clear away the "snags" or sunken trees, to cut

the overhanging branches, &c.

In course of time also, canals, were it only a few yards in length,

might be formed for the purpose of connecting the stream by a more

direct channel, instead of compelling ascending vessels to navigate the

continued sinuosities of the river throughout its entire course.

Swan Hill, a green oasis rising amidst what is, apparently, a desert of

reeds, is a valuable station, containing some excellent pasture. Indeed,

from these very reeds, which are annually burnt, springs up a "second

growth," affording admirable food for cattle; whilst the flats, at

present flooded in all directions, are in summer perfectly dry. On the

crest of the hill, 119 feet only above the sea, is now building a sort

of lock-up, or wooden gaol. Lower down stands the inn, which appears

comfortable, and a store, where the prices of goods and articles were

denounced by some of our party as extravagant, even for the

neighbourhood of the diggings.[19] I heard 2s. mentioned as the price of

a wine-glass of brandy, and 1s. 6d. or 2s. a pound for flour; but do not

vouch for the correctness of my information.

We arrived at Swan Hill about mid-day on the 17th September, after 112

hours' steaming from the Darling (a distance of about 600 miles), having

left our consort, the _Eureka_, on the run of a Mr. Coghill, some miles

behind, to commence loading wool for the return voyage. There being a

police force here, consisting of six mounted troopers, and a Lieutenant

and Clerk of the Court, his Excellency availed himself of it to forward

his report to the Secretary of State, and copies of the document to the

Governors of New South Wales and Victoria. We remained on this station

during the whole of Sunday, hearing Divine Service performed in the

verandah of the latter by a travelling ex-member of the Church of

England, who read us our beautiful Liturgy in a blue Jersey shirt, and

had the good sense or good taste (which, perhaps, are synonymous) not to

weary his congregation with too long a sermon.

The _Mary Ann_ joined us on the Saturday evening, and both vessels

remained stationary until Monday afternoon, September 19th, when the

_Lady Augusta_ proceeded up the river, stopping about twelve miles from

Swan Hill to take in some fuel. The country continued reedy and flooded;

but the banks of the river were lined with gum trees. Our party, I

should mention, has been diminished by one member, a Mr. Bright, who

left us at Swan Hill to ride to Melbourne (210 miles), where he purposes

taking passage to England.

A few miles from Swan Hill, we observed several of the native turkey,

or, more properly, the bustard; they are reckoned delicious eating, but

are approached with difficulty on the open plains, where they love to

feed. Birds are now more plentiful; and I should have said that three

wild swans were seen near Swan Hill.

Tuesday, September 20.--After wooding for two or three hours where we

had anchored the previous night, we steamed on as usual; the river

widening and presenting beautiful reaches overhung with trees,[20]

whilst the continued volume of this noble river, at so great a distance

from the sea, has surprised all on board. This morning, we passed a

connecting offshoot, or, as it is termed here, "backwater" of the

Loddon, which flows into the Murray, near Swan Hill. We are now cramped

a little on board for walking room, the deck being too high for many to

promenade upon at once, as it causes the vessel to heel over from too

much of what is termed "top-hamper;" nevertheless--the weather

continuing delightful, even for Australia--and no European climate can

surpass, I believe, the Australian mornings or evenings, nor Naples

itself, at times, equal the wondrous tints of the sky--all get on, to

use an expressive word, "swimmingly," though none seem to know as yet to

what distance our exploration is to extend. On Tuesday evening, the 20th

September, we reached the station of a Mr. Hogg, and made fast for the

night. A Mr. Dickens, who presented a letter of introduction to His

Excellency, joined us here. He was one of the _Melbourne_ steamer

passengers, but appears to retain no ungrateful recollections of his

detention at Lisbon.[21] The country through which we have passed is

flat and reedy, but occasionally sprinkled with gum trees, and now and

then offering glimpses of forest scenery of a more open kind than the

dense forests which distinguish the lower part of the river.

Wednesday, September 21.--We took on board wood and played some games of

quoits; leaving Mr. Hogg's station about noon. The river, as we

advanced, passes through a flat but pleasing and open country, with

occasional patches of reeds. "Snags" became rather frequent in this

part, and doubtless, if the stream were low, would seem almost to

interlace its bed; otherwise, the river is broad and fine. About dusk,

we stopped for some wood at Gannewarra, the lands of a Mr. Campbell.

This--about six tons weight--employed all hands yesterday; the Captain

and Mr. Jamieson proceeding up to the house. The following morning, we

found that Mr. Campbell had invited the whole party to his dwelling; and

about ten o'clock, the arrival of eight horses and a double gig enabled

every one to accept the invitation. To reach the settlement, distant

about three miles from the river, we passed through a forest of fine

open glades of very lofty timber, and partook of an excellent early

dinner in Mr. Campbell's rude but commodious habitation. Then we had

some music from the piano, which must have tended to enliven us after a

month's imprisonment on board the steamer. Somewhat late, the boat of

the _Lady Augusta_ arrived with three of the party, who had pulled up

the winding creek on which the settlement stands. Nothing occurred in

the way of adventure, but the destruction of the shafts of Mr.

Campbell's gig; which, entrusted to a black, got smashed by the horse

running into an adjacent pile of wood. Fortunately, no one was within.

In the afternoon, we rode back, accompanied by Miss ----, Mrs.

Campbell's pretty sister, who remained on board, as also Mr. Campbell.

This gentleman is the possessor of 4,000 or 5,000 head of cattle and

10,000 sheep, and has been in the colony eleven years.

Friday morning (September 23rd) was distinguished by the fall of two

majestic trees, each exceeding 110 feet in height, and which, hollowed

by age, had been set on fire, and then partially sawn asunder. The

effect was very grand, for, truly, "great was the fall thereof." About

eleven, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Campbell and Miss C., we steamed a

few miles up the river, returning to drop them near Gannewarra, where

their horses, brought down by some natives, took them home.

Mr. Campbell seems to be one of the most flourishing settlers on the

river; and complains only of his inability to grow vegetables--though

his garden has been made on the banks of a fine creek.

His station--the farthest extent of the _Lady Augusta's_

exploration--may be estimated at about 1,400 miles from the sea-mouth of

the Murray. Leaving Gannewarra, we proceeded down the river--the return

homewards having been at length resolved. Our pace, going with the

current, was rapid, but some malign influence appeared this day to beset

the _Lady Augusta_. We had gone but a few miles when we encountered a

huge tree, blocking up nearly the entire stream; this we broke through,

by sheer force of steam, but not without almost sweeping the deck of the

passengers, who with difficulty avoided the branches as they passed over

the vessel. The after bulkhead was also stove in. Arriving at Mr. Hogg's

station, one of the funnels was considerably damaged, and slight injury

received by the upper deck. Leaving this station, we did not leave our

ill luck behind us, for, rounding a moderately sharp turn, a few miles

below this run, we managed, when about to "haul up" for the night, to

run so violently in upon the land, that the steamer, instead of floating

alongside, as intended, remained hard and fast, nor could all the

efforts of the crew get her off. In the morning, the wood being taken

out of her, she floated without any difficulty, much to the satisfaction

of the crew, who, both officers and men, have had hard work in carrying

in our wood, splitting it, &c. Now we are going down the stream, at the

rate of ten or twelve knots an hour. This is very good steaming for a

small vessel like the _Lady Augusta_; though Captain Cadell is not, I

understand, as yet quite satisfied, and purposes, or expects, by means

of a condenser and feather floats, to obtain three miles an hour greater

speed. This would be a great advantage on a river so circuitous as the

Murray; and, as a further improvement, if a disconnecting engine, by

which one paddle would work forward and the other backward, were

provided, boats of greater length, power, and tonnage, might be

employed. Whilst upon this subject, I perhaps ought to mention, that our

engineer (Mr. Napier) has declared that, for boats of shallow

construction--such as the _Lady Augusta_--tubular boilers should be

used, by which means a space of from six to eight feet only would be

required, where, at present, thirty or more is entirely occupied.

On Monday (September 26), we left Tyn-Tyndyer,[22] the station of a Mr.

Beveridge, who is the owner of 11,000 sheep, 2,000 or 3,000 head of

cattle, and what he calls a "mob" of horses, or about 100. The only

thing remarkable about his run, which was some fifty miles in extent,

appeared to me to be his garden, the aspect of which, adorned with some

willows, introduced on the river by himself, was particularly refreshing

to our eyes, fatigued as they had been with the endless monotony of the

sombre foliage of the gum tree. Shortly after leaving Tyn-Tyndyer, we

rejoined the _Eureka_, which was lying very snugly in a pretty bend of

the river, a few miles lower down, and adjacent to the run of a Mr.

Coghill. The next morning, taking her in tow, the _Lady Augusta_

proceeded down the stream for the purpose of ascending the Wakool, there

to take in 220 bales of wool; a process, by effecting which, instead of

waiting on the Murray, much time would be saved.

The navigation towards the junction was most intricate, and so continued

throughout nearly the whole day. All the _Eureka's_ starboard rails were

carried away, and continued stoppages, whether owing to the current, the

sharpness of the bends, or defective steering, detained us for some

hours. However, if the improvement of the navigation of the river be

seriously taken up by the three Governments, many of the obstacles now

experienced will be removed. During the last week we have passed several

points where a little labour, concentrated in cutting fresh channels,

would cause a saving of many miles' distance, and, moreover, obviate the

angles which at present it is so difficult to navigate, at least, with

anything like speed.

The Wakool is a most navigable river,[23] not so broad, indeed, as the

Murray, being scarcely ninety yards wide, but deep and without current,

and singularly free from "snags," or overhanging branches.

We passed Turora, Messrs. Grierson's station, on the Tuesday evening,

and the next morning the public house and ferry, kept by Mr. Talbot; the

soundings gave four and a-half fathoms and "no bottom." Very shortly

afterwards, Poon Boon, or Westmeath, the station of the Royal Australian

Bank, appeared in sight; and here, awaiting our arrival we found the

wool, consisting of 220 bales, averaging 200 lbs. the bale. This, the

first fruit of the river, and the first cargo of the _Lady Augusta_, was

received with all due ceremony, the first bale being hoisted up with one

of the crew to the mast-head of the _Eureka_, where "three times three"

was given in its honour. Some bottles of champagne, and "Success to the

commerce of the Murray," followed in the cabin; and in the evening a

dance, at the head station on shore, terminated the day.

The superintendent, or person in charge here, informs me that his drays,

with the supplies for this year, have not yet returned; and that to

transport his wool to Melbourne by that mode of conveyance would cost

him £45 per ton. The arrival of the steamer has, however, to use his own

expression, "quite set the settlers on their legs again;" and although

the freight, £25 per ton, is as yet rather high, there is no doubt that

it will soon fall, whilst the land-transport from the Goolwa to Port

Elliot will be performed per tramway, at the moderate rate of sixpence

per ton per mile.

The stock of sheep belonging to the stations of this Company,[24]

recently amounting to 50,000, is now reduced by extensive sales to

12,000, but the number, so rapid is the increase, it is expected will

again amount to that quantity in two or three years. The present value

of sheep (for sale) is from fifteen to eighteen shillings; during the

bad times of the colony it was as low as two shillings and sixpence.

After leaving Poon Boon, we regained the Murray without any difficulty,

save the passage of one shallow bar, where extreme precautions were

exercised successfully.

At Canally, one of the stations of Mr. Phelps, wool to the amount of

forty-nine heavy bales was taken in; and leaving this on Friday,

September 30th, we again steamed down the river, having left the two

carpenters and the Chinaman near the mouth of the Wakool, there to

prepare the frames of two more barges, as tenders, to be used for the

further navigation of these rivers. This day, however, was doomed to be

one of melancholy remembrance to all on board, for an accident, not less

sad from its sudden occurrence than by its tragical issue, did then

happen, in a manner most painful to all who witnessed it. About four

o'clock, or rather later, whilst sitting in the cabin, I was disturbed

by hearing an outcry, and tumults on the deck above; and running out, I

discovered by the preparations for casting off the boat, then towing

astern, that a man was overboard. Looking further astern, the steamer

having now reversed her engines, I discovered what must have been the

top of the unfortunate man's head floating about forty or fifty yards

behind us, and distinctly saw his hands upraised, and as it were waving

in a convulsive manner for help. This position he maintained for a

minute or two, but the boat was not easily cast loose, and the steamer

had drifted with the current, which here runs perhaps two and a-half

knots per hour. Shortly afterwards I again looked, but nothing was

visible, for the wretched man had sunk never again to rise; though one

of those in the boat declared that they were so close to him that from

the bow he might have been touched with an oar. It was, however, too

late, and after waiting vainly for the chance of his reappearance, we

were at length obliged to continue our course without even the

satisfaction of discovering his body. The man's name, I afterwards

learned, was William Crewse Teague, a native, it was supposed, of

Cornwall, and he had been employed as a stoker on board. The cause of

the accident, as far as I could ascertain, was the giving way of one of

the gangway rails, against which the man must have leaned whilst drawing

a bucket of water; the rail, which is usually fastened by a peg and

chain, having fallen into the water with him.

On the first of October, we took in fifty-one bales of wool at Mr.

Ross's (Meilman), and remained alongside this station until Monday

morning, the 3rd, when we proceeded down the river, touching at Messrs.

Grant's, who had some wool awaiting transport on the banks. The

Captain's previous arrangements prevented, however, his taking these

bales on the present trip. Leaving this station (Bombany), Messrs. Grant

and their friends being on board, the _Eureka_ managed to tilt some of

her load into the water, from whence it was rescued, not without

considerable labour. It appears the two vessels had been kept on a level

by two spars, one of which having been moved, the strain on the other

became too great, and it snapped, thus destroying the equilibrium of the

barge. In the evening, we reached Euston, the Commissioner's station,

where we halted for the night; the little steamer _Mary Ann_, which

passed us during our difficulties, being anchored a short distance

ahead. It seems, from the owner's account, that she had reached Maiden's

Punt, about 250 miles beyond Swan Hill, without a check. At Euston, the

Crown Commissioner, Mr. Cole (styled by some of our party "King Cole")

received us with his wonted urbanity; and some dancing was achieved in

his quarters. The functions of this officer consist in superintendence

of the lands belonging to the Crown, on which he is bound to prevent all

trespass in the way of cutting timber or depasturing cattle. He is also

authorized to prevent the intrusion of people on the lands of their

neighbours; to estimate the capabilities of the land for grazing

purposes; and he has allotted to him a certain force of police--white or

native troopers--to assist him in his duties, which comprise those of a

magistrate with extraordinary powers, together with a general

supervision of an extensive district. The salary of these officers in

New South Wales is £500 a year, and there are not less than fourteen of

them.

Mr. Cole accompanies us to the Darling; which, after taking in 100 bales

of wool the previous day, we reached on the evening of the 6th--having

left McGrath's before dawn in the morning, and Mildura (Messrs.

Jamieson's) about four p.m.

The weather, which yesterday was cold and boisterous, is now again

"Australian," and I have no recollection of a finer morning in any

climate than to-day. Personally, perhaps, as in some degree invalided

for the last five years, I feel more the luxury of this matutinal

freshness; having passed, I am told by my next neighbour, Mr. Grainger,

who sleeps in the berth under me, a most uneasy night; which I can

attribute only to the deleterious effects of the _tea_, of which,

contrary to my usual abstinence, I last night imbibed rather more than

one-third of a cup.[25] It is very annoying to be subjected thus to the

caprices or the malicious propensities of cooks, stewards, or others

whose duty it may be to infuse these our evening potations; and most

unjust that the innocuous or even the independent members of society

should be exposed to the chance of a nightmare or an apoplexy by such

proceedings. Nor can the evil be without remedy; for, without coinciding

with the Rev. Sydney Smith, "That a bishop must be burnt before railway

accidents are prevented;" or agreeing with Mr. D'Israeli, "That an

architect should be sacrificed to ensure a National Gallery worthy of a

great nation;"[26] I must be pardoned for the suggestion, that society

generally--and all are concerned in the suppression of such

annoyances--might visit with a kind of moral _decimation_, all the

perpetrators of these iniquities.

The country, as we approach South Australia, is now improving in

appearance, as the waters having receded, the forest appears more open,

and even the "Mallee scrub" is less monotonous than before. We learn,

however, that this subsidence has not taken place on the upper part of

the river, the Murray having risen some feet at Maiden's Punt, probably

from the floods on the Campaspe and Goulburn, for as yet the Alpine

snows have not contributed their quota to the stream. With respect to

the "Mallee," which covers so large a portion of the vicinity of this

river, it may not be uninteresting to mention that there is a root of a

particular kind of this shrub well-known to the natives, which, being

cut into strips and placed in a pannikin or other vessel, has the

property of exuding water from within, which, slowly dripping out of the

wood, is thus preserved for the thirsting traveller.

Friday, October 7th.--We reached the Darling last night, at eleven p.m.,

notwithstanding the cloudiness of the sky; and about one, despatches,

papers, &c., came on board for His Excellency and some members of our

party. The news does not seem of importance, the South Australian

journals being too much occupied with our trip, and the English,

especially the beautifully _Illustrated London News_, with the mimic war

at Chobham.

This morning (Saturday), the steamer took in some tons of wood and nine

bales of wool, which, besides some sheep skins and tallow, completes the

cargo to 441 bales, of an average weight of 300lbs., and an aggregate

value of £9,000 or £10,000, with which we trust her owners will for the

present remain satisfied. We are now steering on for Mooruna, the

station of the Crown Commissioner of the Albert District, where we are

to leave Mr. Cole--having dropped the Messrs. Jamieson, with most hearty

farewells, at the Darling junction. One of these gentleman, the Mr. Hugh

Jamieson, who has accompanied us thus far on our expedition, has been

successfully exerting himself in moving addresses to His Excellency and

Captain Cadell, which, with Sir Henry Young's rejoinder, are as

follows:--

"_Address presented by the Murray Settlers of New South Wales and

Victoria to Sir Henry Young, when approaching the boundaries of South

Australia, on his return to Adelaide, in the_ Lady Augusta, _steamer._

"To Sir Henry Edward Fox Young, Knight, Lieutenant-Governor of South

Australia, &c., &c., &c.xxx

"May it please your Excellency--

We, the undersigned, proprietors of stock in New South Wales and

Victoria, resident on the Murray and surrounding districts, hail with

satisfaction the present opportunity afforded us by the safe return to

this part of the Murray of the _Lady Augusta_ steamer from her

inauguration voyage from the Goolwa to beyond Swan Hill, and beg to

congratulate your Excellency on your safe return to the frontiers of

your own Province; and respectfully desire to convey to your

Excellency some record expressive of our opinion with reference to the

opening up of these extensive districts, by means of inland steam

navigation, throughout the interior of Australia.

"We deem it unnecessary, on this occasion, to enlarge on the

importance of this enterprise, the great public and varied interest

therein involved, and the very evident advantages to arise from it;

but would desire to convey to your Excellency our unanimous opinion,

and just appreciation, of the liberal and enlightened policy of the

Legislature of South Australia in encouraging so highly important an

undertaking; and, at the same time, we would desire to express to your

Excellency our acknowledgments, not only for the persevering exertions

and valuable support which the enterprise has all along received from

your Excellency, at the seat of your own Government, but also for the

favourable manner in which you have brought under the consideration of

the Home Government, the Governor-General in Sydney, and the

Lieutenant-Governor of Victoria, the importance of the early

establishment of steamers on the Murray, on a scale commensurate with

the requirements of so large a river.

"As the successful accomplishment, so far, of the first voyage of the

steamer _Lady Augusta_ permits us to look forward, with some

confidence for the future, to the easy transit of goods and produce,

to and from South Australia, by means of steam navigation, we may

here, perhaps not improperly, retrospectively allude to the

difficulties and tedious delays we have all, for so many years,

encountered in reaching a market for our produce; and, in doing so, we

are unwilling to forego the pleasure of assuring your Excellency that

we shall ever look back with satisfaction to the time when, in these

remote parts of the Colony, and surrounded by many discouraging

circumstances, we had, in the year 1850, the strongest proofs afforded

to us of the interest taken in the Murray and its navigation by

finding your Excellency undertake and accomplish, at considerable

personal exertion and inconvenience, a voyage of exploration, in an

open boat, from the junction of the Darling with the Murray to the

Goolwa.

"We would only, further, beg to express to your Excellency that we

recognize, with much satisfaction, the permanent honour, which in

after years, must attach to you, for having so successfully aided the

accomplishment of the Murray navigation; and we would offer you our

cordial expression of hope, that, whether you may be resident in this

or in other and more distant parts of the world, you may, for many

future years, learn, with equal interest, the permanently beneficial

results of the Murray navigation; convinced, as we are, that these

results will prove highly important, not only to the best interests of

your own Province, and to the Australian Provinces generally, but also

to England, and other parts of the world; affecting, as they most

indisputably will do, thousands of the population who may, in future

years, make choice of Australia as the land of their adoption.

D. Fletcher, J.P.

H. Jamieson, J.P.

J. Lecky Phelps, J.P.

Sylvester & Smith

Edward Lintott

James A. Liscombe

Joseph J. Phelps

N. Chadwick

James Hamilton

William Ross

John Grant

John Grant, jun.

Simon Grant

Edmund Morey, J.P.

Bushby Jamieson

Thomas McPherson

John McNichol

Crozier & Rutherford

Andrew Beveridge

Peter Beveridge

George Beveridge

Albion Gibbs

J. J. Keene

K. Nox

R. H. Jones

James Rutherford

M. McGrath

James McGrath

Thomas McGrath

Henry Williams

George B. Fletcher

James McLeod

"On board the _Lady Augusta_,

River Murray, near the junction of the Darling,

October 7, 1853."

_Reply of His Excellency Sir Henry Young to the foregoing Address._

"Gentlemen--I have the honour to acknowledge, and to thank you for,

the Address which you have presented to me.

"The steam navigation of the great River Murray and its

tributaries--of which this voyage has been the auspicious

commencement--is an object of such general and permanent importance,

that, had any exertions to promote its prosecution been awanting on my

part, I should have considered the omission a dereliction of my duty.

"It is a great gratification to me that you have appreciated the

utility of the enterprise, and have been enabled to witness its

accomplishment.

"My earnest hope and belief are, that it will realise for the future

all the great and permanent advantages which are so reasonably to be

anticipated.

"I feel highly honoured by the obliging terms in which you have

expressed yourselves in regard to myself personally, and

"I have the honour to be, Gentlemen,

"Your very obedient and faithful servant,

"H. E. F. Young.

"River Darling, October 7, 1853."

At the same time was addressed to Captain Cadell the following letter,

from the same place:--

"We, the undersigned, proprietors of stock on the River Murray and its

tributaries, appreciating the very great benefits which cannot fail to

result from the introduction of a line of steamers for passengers and

produce, on the Murray, desire to congratulate you on the personal

distinction of being the first successfully to accomplish this

important work.

"Our earnest wishes and expectations are, that, however extended the

field of this enterprise may hereafter become, your share of the

benefits may at least bear due proportion to the energetic spirit

which has acquired for you the permanent honour of opening up the

trade and commerce of this great river, by means of steam

communication.

"Whilst we recognize with satisfaction the enterprising spirit you

have displayed in carrying out so successfully the establishment of

this important undertaking, in the midst of difficulties of no

ordinary description, consequent upon the vast and well-known changes

which have arisen from the gold discoveries throughout Australia, we

beg to assure you, that we feel it alike a duty and a pleasure, on the

present occasion, to take this the very earliest opportunity to

intimate to you, that a certain amount of money has been equally

subscribed by us, for the purpose of being applied in any manner most

agreeable to yourself, in the acquisition of some memorial of your

first steam voyage on the River Murray.

"You are aware of the extreme distances at which our respective

stations are situated, and the consequent difficulty of our waiting

upon you and ascertaining personally when and where it would be most

suitable to you for the presentation of the testimonial to take place.

"We shall, therefore, feel much indebted by your communicating your

wishes on this subject to the Hon. Secretary, at your earliest

convenience.

"Foregoing Signatures.xxx

"Francis Cadell, Esq., Commander, _Lady Augusta_."

[Illustration: AN AUSTRALIAN FARM SCENE]

Sunday, October 9.--The weather, rather oppressively warm during the

day, is now overcast and threatens some continuance of rain. Having,

however, fortified myself with Roscoe's admirable Memoir of Lorenzo di

Medicis, I feel in some measure independent of clouds and sunshine. The

books we have on board are numerous, and many of them excellent, but,

after seven weeks, some novelty is refreshing. We passed Mooruna, the

station of the Albert Commissioner, about 3 p.m., and left there some

articles and stores for that official. It has not a pleasing aspect,

being, even at this season, almost denuded of verdure, and, moreover,

fiercely red. About dusk, we were hailed by a native from Messrs.

Rutherford and Crozier's station, and accordingly "lay-to," taking Mr.

Crozier on board. This detention, though at the time it appeared

unnecessary, was of service to the Captain, as he was enabled to obtain,

through Mr. Crozier and the natives of the station, the exact

"whereabouts" of a sunken rock,[27] which lies nearly in mid-channel,

and opposite to Rutherford's Ferry. During the night, heavy rain fell,

which wetted us a little in the cabin; but has not, we trust, injured

the cargo.

Saturday, October 8th.--The morning wet and cheerless, and so continued

till we deposited Commissioner Cole at the station called Bob and

Harry's, which is not far distant from Lake Victoria--a sheet of water

of some extent, connected with the Murray by a stream called the Rufus.

At night, we anchored under some high sand cliffs, of singular

formation, near the boundary of South Australia--which province, it is

presumed, we have now entered. On Monday morning early, we expect to be

at Mr. Chapman's, remaining here all Sunday--which, to us, is a _dies

non_. It now occurs to me, that I commenced these notes with a

declaration and determination not to chronicle our daily proceedings on

board, which, I had imagined, could not but prove "flat, stale, and

unprofitable." As, however, I have infringed on this rule, it may,

perhaps, be now excusable to continue in transgression, by giving the

routine of our river life. _Pour commencer_, then, we--that is, the

gentlemen of the party, who sleep in the main cabin, the sofas of which

form two tiers of berths--rise about six, sip some coffee, and dress in

the fore cabin.[28] At a little before nine, is breakfast, a _déjeûner à

la fourchette_; about twelve, bread and cheese, with a glass of ale or

wine; at four is dinner, a substantial and most abundant meal, of which,

good curry is a predominating feature; at seven, comes tea, which does

not appear to be so favourite a beverage as it deserves--partly,

perhaps, for want of milk, which is only occasionally obtained; at nine,

the beds are made up; and about eleven, most on board appear to sleep.

These particulars will also answer, in most respects, for the ladies of

our party, whose cabin (the after one) opens into the main saloon. The

deck of the _Lady Augusta_ is now the only place for walking on board,

but it serves well enough for a few at a time; as, however, the vessel

must stop almost daily to take in wood, there is no want of

opportunities for exercise--the real mainstay of health, I certainly

believe, in every climate. On this subject, however, I feel compelled to

say, that though I most willingly accompanied His Excellency--as in

deference to his wishes I was bound to do--and although, I doubt not,

the river voyage may eventually prove of service to my health, yet, had

I been aware of some of the _dèsagrémens_ which I have since

encountered, I might, perhaps, have been enabled to shorten my stay on

board. "It is wrong to look a gift horse in the mouth;" and it would be

ungenerous to find fault where no wrong has been intended; but though

Captain Cadell's attention to all his guests has been as unremitting as

his navigating energy, the courtesy of his officers (who, from the

extent of our party, must have been somewhat incommoded) universal, and

the disposition of the crew most obliging, yet have we all, I think,

without exception, been found at times to complain of the effects, it is

to be presumed, of our daily meals. I believe, myself, the ladies have

been the greatest sufferers; but they have borne their trials with such

endurance through this picnic voyage of more than seven weeks, that it

may seem a bold assertion to admit it all.

Sunday.--During the whole of this day we have had continual showers, and

the weather has been altogether cold, and most unlike Australia,

particularly at this season, and on the Murray, where it is said, it

never rains. Most of our party, however, managed to climb the cliffs

under which we lay, and from whence an extensive and pleasing view of

the river was obtained.

On Monday morning, early, we cast off, having taken in a small stock of

wood, which was procured by the officers and crew cutting down the pines

above us, and hurling them over the cliff. The blacks, brought by Mr.

Mason from Wellington, then carried it on board, and afterwards sawed

and split it asunder. These three natives, I may add, have proved

particularly useful whilst on board.

About one we reached Mr. Chapman's (Paringa), conspicuous from afar by a

tri-coloured flag with the words "_Cead mille failthea_" inscribed

thereon--having passed this morning through a more open country, and if

not more picturesque, certainly of a bolder character. This consisted of

ranges of bold red cliffs, which, at a distance, bore some resemblance

to the Avon or the Wye. On a nearer approach, however, their rugged

aspect and scanty verdure--a few scrub bushes, interspersed with pines

and gum trees--belied so soft a simile; and, but for their waterworn

appearance, I would now rather liken them in feature to the wilder

scenery of portions of the rivers in the west of Brittany. We wooded

again in the evening, and then steamed on till one or two a.m., of

Tuesday, the 11th of October, having been all rather disturbed during

the night by an awful crash amongst the gum trees; this, however,

appeared more formidable than it really was, and committed no other

havoc but an addition to the honourable scars which the _Lady

Augusta_--now "stove in" in various places--bears upon her sides. Now,

we pursue our way through a more varied country, particularly about

Talibka (Mr. Wigley's), to the "North-West Bend," which we hope to reach

this evening; the weather remaining cool and cloudy, and far more like

an English than an Australian climate. Our wooding place this evening

bears quite a resemblance, the sandy soil excepted, to an English park;

and sweeping round it, above the stream, is a fine range of bold cliffs.

Last night we managed to get the _Eureka_ aground, and she was not set

afloat again without considerable exertion of steam force. The shadows

cast by the trees, which overhang the water, render night navigation

somewhat difficult, and though we pressed on with full power we did not

succeed in reaching the Bend, as we anticipated. Meanwhile the stores

are getting less, and yesterday we had nothing but champagne at dinner,

instead of the accustomed layer of good draught port. This is something

like the guardsman roughing it on his beefsteak and his bottle of port,

but that, in this part of the world, there is never any fear of being

without the staple commodity--good mutton.

The _Lady Augusta_ left her boat this morning at the wooding

station,[29] and we were consequently unable to land at Mr. Walsh's,

which appears one of the prettiest stations on the river. Mr. W.,

however, came on board in a nice little wherry, reminding one more of

the Thames than the Murray, and left some newspapers, which have again

put us in possession of the state of affairs in Adelaide. Our party,

however, complain that they contain no news; though I have, myself, been

much amused, I may say interested, by a journal of our trip up to Swan

Hill, which appears in the _Register_; nor am I sorry to find therein,

from the report of the Select Committee of the Legislative Council on

the proposed Civil List, that my salary, amongst others, is likely to be

doubled.

We reached Moorundee about two p.m., and found it almost surrounded by

water. Mr. Scott was from home, and the fair mistress of the demesne

engaged, I suppose, within; as, however, I did not myself join the party

on shore, I must delay, till the ladies return, my inquiries after Mrs.

Scott and the news of the Murray.

We left Mr. Scott's about five p.m., and steamed on all night, the

weather still rather cold. About sunrise, I found the steamer had

entered the magnificent valley below the Reedy Creek, comprising Mr.

Baker's "run"--a tract of great extent, named, I believe, Wall--and

where, in point of scenery, the character of that river becomes wholly

changed. Here, the Murray, leaving the confined channel of forest, which

for so many hundred miles has enclosed its course, issues into a wide

vale, terminating in an extended basin, which though much encumbered

with reeds, yet in the contour of its outlines, and the diversified

variety of its wooded or rocky slopes, far surpasses any other portion

of the river we had as yet seen. The volume, too, of the stream is here

very considerable, its breadth being nearly 350 yards; whilst sailing

majestically on its surface we descry numerous black swans in close and

amicable contiguity with flocks of unsightly pelicans. Continuing to

pass through a country of this kind, we soon leave behind us the granite

formation, with the huge "boulders" of rock which mark its character;

and after meeting an island, in mid-stream, again enter upon an Arcadian

country, which, undulating in small rounded hills, dotted with trees of

moderate height, bears some resemblance to the shores of Greece. Strange

to say, however, as the land appears good, even if occasionally rocky,

there is scarcely a habitation to be seen; though here, one would say,

is quite the scene to realize the poet's dream, the

"Speluncæ vivique lacus, ac frigida tempe,

Mugitusque boûm, mollesque sub arbore somni."

About twenty-four measured miles (according to Mr. Mason) from

Wellington, in the vicinity of the granite masses, visible from the

deck, is a large rock, at present under water, but visible when the

river is low. The next object I find worthy of notice is a "mob" of

sixty or seventy horses, seemingly lost in wonder at the smoking and

noise-making intruder upon their wonted solitude. After a time they lose

their fears, and, fascinated as it were with the novel sight and sound,

follow us in wild confusion along the rugged shores.

Thursday, October 13th, quarter to one p.m.--We are now at Wellington,

where, amongst the spectators on the sandy banks, I observe His

Excellency's police-orderly, who, coming on board, informs us that the

horses are here. Sir Henry Young having, however, determined to

terminate his voyage only at the completion of the enterprise, by the

arrival of the steamer with her first cargo, the Golden Fleece,[30] at

her starting point, the Goolwa, the horses are ordered to that point.

Being, however, myself, desirous of returning to Adelaide at once, and

his Excellency spontaneously giving me the option of so doing, I here

determine to bid adieu to the river, and place myself with the least

possible delay on one of the horses which the trooper brought from

Adelaide some days ago.

Here then, I leave the Murray! and I do so in the firm belief that,

whether it is to become in the future--as it has been, perhaps

prophetically, designated--the "Australian Nile;" or whether it is to be

the connecting link and general highway of the Australian capitals,

existing and to be; this river is of incalculable advantage to the whole

of Australasia, and its steam navigation, thus far successfully

accomplished, an event worthy of record and narration by far abler pens

than mine.

After a glance at Captain Cadell's canvas boat, I left Wellington a

little after two p.m. on the 13th, mounted on a horse hired by Mr.

Grainger, and by no means remarkable for speed. The excellent natural

road runs for some miles over fine plains covered with wild flowers, and

affording, I should imagine, rich pasturage, with some lakes adjacent.

Thence you arrive at a tract of dreary and sandy scrub, rendered still

more disagreeable by a road which is quite a reflection upon a civilized

district, and from the number of stumps, which like "_trous de loup_"

project from it, is really a most dangerous thoroughfare. At about

eighteen or twenty miles from Wellington, is Langhorne's Creek, a

settlement, near which I was shown the finest wheat in the Colony, and

where there is a tolerable inn, with moderate charges and prompt

attendance. Leaving this, the road--one place excepted, a most superior

natural one, passes through a fine open forest country, fed over by

abundant cattle, whose condition testifies to the quality of their food.

Strathalbyn is then reached; it is a most flourishing settlement, and

boasts a good inn; in the vicinity are some mines, worked for seven

years, and shortly to be turned to more profit by the introduction of

expensive machinery, which, possibly may be transported thither _via_

Wellington and the Murray, the approach from Adelaide, being, I am told,

scarcely passable for heavily loaded drays. I arrived at Strathalbyn a

little after six! and about nine, a further detachment of our party,

consisting of Messrs. Davenport, Andrews, and Allen, came in, having

left Wellington just after me in a sort of dog-cart. The following

morning between seven and eight, I left for Adelaide; the trooper, with

his Excellency's horses, proceeding onward to the Goolwa, distant about

twenty miles. I found the country from Strathalbyn to the capital

exceedingly beautiful, combining, indeed, every variety of forest

scenery, water alone excepted. Its aspect is Devonian; but between

Strathalbyn and Macclesfield is encountered a conglomerate of hills,

heaped together in such wild and mountainous confusion, that to

construct a highway might have puzzled General Wade himself. It must,

however, at some time or other be done, for at present the road is

execrable; and when the land is so fine, and the settlements between

Adelaide and the Murray so important, it is perhaps bad policy, not to

say almost an injustice, to leave the inhabitants without good means of

communication. Some miles, however, beyond the Echunga diggings--a tract

of gravelly waste, honeycombed as it were with pits, there is now

constructing a new line of road, passing Crafer's (ten miles from

Adelaide), which, though cut through a difficult country, and not

apparently formed in strict accordance with "Henry Law," will,

doubtless, be made highly available to the interests of the settlers of

Mount Barker, Strathalbyn, &c.

About Glen Osmond, for a distance of some miles, the views are splendid,

comprising the whole of the Adelaide plains, and a vast and magnificent

sea-view extending completely across the Gulf of St. Vincent. The town

itself lies spread out below the hills as upon a map; but perhaps from

the want of spires or lofty buildings, the City of Adelaide is not, from

a distance, very imposing in appearance. Descending Glen Osmond, three

or four miles of hard, if not good, road, brings the traveller to the

town, which--rather tired, I confess--I reached about half-past four

p.m.; my horse being equally knocked up with myself, though the distance

from Strathalbyn is not more than thirty-eight miles.

Sir Henry Young left the steamer the same evening (Friday, October 14),

at the Goolwa, after a smooth passage across the Lake, and took up his

quarters for the night at Port Elliot. The next day, accompanied by Mr.

Grainger, His Excellency rode into Adelaide, a distance of about

fifty-eight miles.

By way of postscript to my journal, I append a letter from Mr. Randell,

the enterprising owner of the little _Mary Ann_.

Adelaide, October 21, 1853.

A. KINLOCH.

Gumeracka Mill, October 17, 1853.

Sir,--In answer to yours respecting the character of the River Murray,

above Swan Hill, I beg leave to state, that for some distance above

the Point the _Lady Augusta_ reached (Campbell's), the flats by the

river side improve in quality, and are more extensive. I observed many

which were not flooded, which looked beautifully green and thick with

herbage as far as the eye could reach. Many of the flats, as usual,

were entirely covered with water; and even those that I before spoke

of are very low, being only a few inches above the level of the river.

For the last three days before reaching Maiden's Punt (the highest

point we attained), the river begins to narrow, and to be particularly

sinuous, though not so incommoded with fallen trees or overhanging

branches as many parts we had passed, both above and below Swan Hill.

The banks begin to rise rather suddenly, and are clothed in many

places with thick jungles of the mimosa or wattle; though of a

different kind from any in the Adelaide district. I am told the kind

is plenty at Rivoli Bay, also in Van Dieman's Land. The bark is as

good for its tanning properties as the Adelaide wattle. Gum and box

trees abound as below. The depth of the river at Maiden's Punt we

found to be thirty feet, and forty to fifty yards broad; the river

rose two feet while we were there, and was still rising when we left.

I consider Maiden's Punt to be a much more important place than Swan

Hill, from the fact of its being much nearer all the diggings than

that place (fifty-five miles from Bendigo, forty from Goulburn, and

100 miles from the Ovens), and from its being on the high road from

Melbourne to the Murrumbidgee, Edwards, and indeed all the country

northward. Maiden's Punt is situated one and a-half miles from the

junction of the Goulburn; and, from information I received, I consider

that river navigable for small boats, like ours, within twelve miles

of the Goulburn diggings.

I was informed, by Mr. Maiden, the proprietor of the punt and inn,

bearing his name, that some short distance above his place, at the

junction of the Edwards and Wakool--or rather where these rivers leave

the Murray--that, at flood time, the channel of the river is lost

among large reedy lakes, and that its course could not be found

without native assistance--that the country is quite destitute of

trees for a considerable distance. After leaving this part, the timber

becomes plenty again, and continues so; the banks keep high, and

continue to improve in quality; the river becoming more sinuous still,

and the current much stronger. I do not think I have anything more of

importance to mention, but should anything strike you, on which I

could render you any information, I shall be most happy to do so.

I remain, dear Sir,

Yours respectfully,

WILLm. RICH. RANDELL.

Arthur Kinloch, Esq., Clerk Executive Council.