The post of Ambassador at Paris being the plum of the Diplomatic
service, its attainment is the hope and aim of many a statesman;
but, skilful though he may have proved himself, brilliant though his
services to his country may have been, he is fortunate indeed if his
aspirations are ever realized. It is quite conclusive, however, that he
who _is_ appointed is a man of sterling merit: and such is the present
Ambassador; and most of us can recall the satisfaction with which both
political parties hailed his succession.
I have had several opportunities of visiting the Embassy in the Rue du
Faubourg Saint Honoré, but certainly the most interesting occasion was
the first one, that being the wedding day of Lord Terence Blackwood,
the second son, to Miss Davis, of New York.
I am early on the scene, so have ample time to linger at the massive
gates, and looking across the courtyard, study the front exterior.
It is a house with a history; for back in the days when Buonaparte was
seeking to make himself master of the world, his sister, the Princess
Pauline, was its occupant. Beautiful as this Princess was, one can
easily imagine the house to have been the rendezvous of the fashionable
inhabitants of a fashionable city; although, if report speaks truly,
such assemblies were composed more largely of the gay than the wise. A
change of ownership came, for in 1814 it was purchased by the British
Government; and from being a resort for the idle, it became one of
the business centres of Paris. Now we pass the porter's lodge and the
offices of the Consulate, and mount the broad steps into the portico.
Just now all this presents quite a tropical appearance; stately palm,
waving fern, and choice flowers being placed for the occasion. Stepping
into the entrance halls, inner and outer, I find a continuance of the
floral decorations, making the place look a veritable fairyland. Ionic
columns, marble walls, and marble stairs lend themselves for a grand
background to this Oriental display, here and there peeping out, costly
but not lovely, Burmese idols, elephants' feet, a model of Mandalay,
a Pith village, and other valuable curios. Tables with rich Oriental
covers, settees and chairs in rich crimson velvet, give colour, making
altogether a fine picture.
I am almost immediately joined by Lady Dufferin and her two daughters,
and much pleasant talk ensues, and a leisurely survey of some hundreds
of costly wedding presents.
[Illustration: THE BRITISH EMBASSY--FRONT VIEW.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
A chat with any of this family is an intellectual treat; so much can
they tell one of people and places, and so many and varied are the
leaves from their eventful lives. Also, the residence is an interesting
study. One sees in it so many reminders from friends in all parts:
testimonies of esteem and regard bestowed by illustrious donors, and
pleasant little reminders come with them all--a little anecdote of this
individual, and a little story connected with that place.
[Illustration: GRAND STAIRCASE.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
Together we make the tour of the principal rooms, halting every now and
again for anything of special interest, such as water-colours by His
Excellency, paintings and miniatures collected by him on his foreign
stations, furniture and plate formerly the property of the Napoleon
family, and the exquisite floral decorations of the suite of rooms set
apart for the reception in American style which is to take place after
the ceremony.
[Illustration: MODEL OF MANDALAY.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
Here we are presently joined by the Marquis and the bridegroom--Lord
Terence Blackwood--together with his two younger brothers; we all turn
again to the still arriving presents, everybody laughing and talking
together in an unaffected and happy manner. Evidently the coming event
affords complete satisfaction to this thoroughly typical English
family; but time is getting on, the sight of the men in their gorgeous
State liveries of blue and gold, powdered wigs, and pink silk stockings
warns each and all of preparations to be made, so we disperse for the
present, to meet many times later in the day, and also on subsequent
occasions.
Then I wander about at my own will and pleasure, and make myself more
thoroughly acquainted with the house and its contents.
The Throne Room and Ball Room are contiguous, only divided by an
archway spanned by a double brest-summer supported by carved figures.
In the Throne Room, Lord Dufferin, of course, represents the Majesty of
Great Britain; and though the number of English residents in Paris is
comparatively few since the fall of the Monarchy and the rise of the
Republic, yet there is still a fair number of influential families,
and also many foreign friends of the British Crown, who, together
with the representatives of other Courts, make up a crowded assembly
and form a brilliant gathering. Different receptions, these, to some
I was told of--some in India and others in Canada. Very peculiar and
highly amusing: perhaps the first one given in Canada excelled in
this respect. Owing to delay in arrival of luggage, the family were
very, very short of even such necessary articles as crockery, managing
amongst themselves with about half-a-dozen cracked plates and cups.
More must be got somewhere for the reception, which would doubtless
be large, so they had to borrow, not priceless Sèvres or dainty
Dresden, but thick earthenware, pure and simple. The entire affair
was what we should call "scratch"--the bed had to be moved out of
the best bed-chamber to make more room; the furniture itself was all
"lodging-house." When the company arrived many of them had no cards;
the servant could not say their French names, so made them write them
on bits of paper at the entrance; and, to crown it all, just as it was
all over, the servants of the crockery owners came and fetched it away,
right in sight of the guests!
And yet they were very merry over all these affairs--merry even when
they had to oil themselves all over with strong smelling oil to keep
off the bites of the mosquitoes. And then what outings they had in
this same place! How they all went on fishing expeditions; camping out
in tents, which had to be entered by creeping in on all fours through
a very small hole; then sleeping with a knife under their pillows,
so as to cut another way out if a bear should look in! One occasion
Lady Dufferin recalls, when, on crawling into her tent in the usual
manner, she made a false movement and the entire affair upset on top
of her! Canadian life had its drawbacks, but it had its pleasures,
not the least of them being the large circle of friends made by the
Governor-General and his wife; and it is difficult to say on which side
was the most regret at parting--the Dufferin family or the inhabitants
of the country.
[Illustration: LORD DUFFERIN IN HIS STUDY.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
Then the reminiscences go away to India, where everything was done on
a scale of gorgeous magnificence; where such a reception awaited them
on their arrival as completely eclipsed anything they had ever before
witnessed; where vast crowds of Europeans and natives of every size and
shape lined the streets to give them greeting: some in all the colours
of the rainbow, some in "nearly nothing at all." Here the Residence
was grand and stately, swarming with native servants in any number
of different costumes: some in glittering uniforms, some in ordinary
dress, and some in rags and tatters; but men, all men, for every
possible duty, and all of them extremely mindful of caste. He who puts
water into your jug would not deign to pour it out; one who cleans your
shoes would consider it derogatory to pass you a cup of tea; one puts
a candle in a candlestick, another sets light to it. At any time you
need not be surprised at finding as many as eight men in your bedroom,
all gravely performing their different duties!
[Illustration: LADY DUFFERIN.
_From a Photograph._]
Then the receptions of Indian potentates by Lord Dufferin, when, in
accordance with the rank of each, so many _aides-de-camp_ must fetch
them from their residences, and so far must His Excellency advance to
meet them: anywhere from half-way down the room to the steps at the
entrance.
Then they all sat about in various positions, some of the time silent,
some of it talking with the aid of interpreters; occasionally varying
proceedings by offering presents which they did not mean them to
accept--Lady Dufferin and others of the family enjoying a private view
from a safe hiding-place.
Somewhat embarrassing must have been the situation of Lord Dufferin
and his attachés when attending for the first time an Indian organized
entertainment. It was in the morning, and they were duly arrayed in
orthodox frock-coat. Much to their consternation, wreaths of flowers
were brought forward and placed around their necks! Just you imagine
such a picture here! I am afraid it would be too much for even the
gravity of grave Englishmen!
At Paris things are done in lavish style, be it dinner party for forty
to sixty, or garden party attended by fourteen or fifteen hundred;
the wedding reception, for instance, bringing several hundreds of the
_élite_ of the city, the entire ground suite of rooms being thrown
open, in addition to the fine covered promenade gallery, with orange
trees, palms, etc., which forms a terrace opening on to grounds in the
rear of the house.
[Illustration: LADY HERMIONE BLACKWOOD.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
This brings me back to the Throne Room, where I commenced to speak
of receptions. This room is somewhat limited in size, but the Ball
Room joining more than redeems it, as the two combined have the most
magnificent proportions. The walls are hung in crimson, and show a
profusion of plate-glass panels; the ceiling is painted cream, with
gold relief, crystal chandeliers depend from it; the whole being
supported by decorated Doric columns. The Throne chair, on daïs and
under a canopy, is of the usual character, crimson upholstery and frame
of over-burnished gold; other furniture to match, and all of it showing
the Arms of England and V.R., even the carpet--an Axminster--having
the same design woven. Passing under the archway into the Ball
Room, you step immediately on to a very beautiful parquetry floor,
and get a clear view of the pretty lawn and terraces, from windows
facing--windows handsomely curtained in cream and gold. Ceiling and
walls alike are splendidly decorated in relief, showing musical and
armorial designs; the furniture, settees, and chairs to match with
those in the Throne Room.
[Illustration: THE THRONE ROOM.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
Not only did I have the pleasure of witnessing a reception and ball
in these rooms, but also attended an assemblage of quite a different
character there on another occasion: one of a description that tends
very much to make Lord and Lady Dufferin the popular personages they
are; showing unmistakably their interest in their less wealthy and
less fortunate countrymen and countrywomen. This special meeting was
on behalf of the "Girls' Friendly Society," the Paris branch of which
has a hard-working president in Lady Dufferin. His Excellency not
only threw open his splendid rooms, but also took the chair, and made
a hopeful, energetic speech, assuring the society of his continual
support. I just mention this to show how ready the family are to accord
help to those who need it, and to give up time for the good of others,
notwithstanding the heavy pressure of official and social duties
devolving upon them.
Thus the Embassy is the very centre of much good work in the city;
how much is really done in helping the needy, in suppressing vice,
protecting strangers, and supporting charitable objects of all sorts it
would be impossible for me to give you any idea.
[Illustration: THE GALLERY.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
[Illustration: THE LAWNS AND TERRACES.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
[Illustration: THE BALL-ROOM.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
Of Lord Dufferin's official life it is not necessary to say much; his
appointment here was putting the right man in the right place, such
satisfactory proof has he always given of his splendid abilities, keen
tact, and nicety of judgment. More than one crisis has he successfully
tided over, earning the unbounded gratitude of his country. Few men,
perhaps, have held so many and important positions under the Crown as
he. Born at Florence in 1826, he was educated at Christ Church, Oxford;
became a Lord-in-Waiting to Her Majesty in 1849; went with Lord Russell
on a special mission to Vienna in 1855; on a mission to Syria in 1860;
was made Lord-Lieutenant of County Down in 1864: Under-Secretary of
State for India in 1864; Under-Secretary for War in 1866; Chancellor
and Paymaster for the Duchy of Lancaster in 1868; Governor-General of
Canada in 1872; Ambassador to St. Petersburg in 1879; to Constantinople
in 1881; was sent on a Special Commission to Egypt in 1882; was made
Viceroy of India in 1884; Ambassador to the King of Italy in 1888;
Ambassador at Paris in 1891.
In the Red Saloon many instances of the artistic ability of Lord
Dufferin may be seen: indeed, the crimson-covered walls are profusely
hung with his water-colours. Amongst others, I noticed the "Ruins of
Fort Ticonderoga" (where the 42nd Regiment was cut up), the "Indian's
Grave," "Artillery Ground at Quebec," "Killyleagh Castle," and some
descriptive of the Iceland journey of his lordship.
While thinking of the Marquis of Dufferin as a clever statesman,
an artist, and a literary man, it must not be forgotten that he is
also a very fine orator. His various speeches make splendid reading:
instructive, eloquent, and always well to the point before him. Perhaps
there are no better of his on record than those made in Canada, when
the rugged sons of toil who listened to him went almost wild with
delight. At that time people had scarcely commenced to settle in
places which are now prosperous cities and towns, and Lord Dufferin
did splendid service by visiting outlying regions and pointing out
possibilities of new commerce and new sources of income.
[Illustration: THE QUEEN'S ROOM.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
The Queen's Room is very handsomely decorated in blue and gold, and
is one of the suite of drawing-rooms on the ground floor; it takes
its name from a magnificent full-length painting of Her Majesty. Buhl
tables, furniture of gold and silk brocade, ormolu decorations, and
carved marble combine to make an exquisite display. As with the other
drawing rooms, it opens out on to the Promenade Gallery.
The next room, called the Prince of Wales's Room, is very handsome: it
has a richly-decorated ceiling in gold relief, with walls draped and
embellished to match; Ionic columns and gold-framed panels to doors add
to the richness; cream silk curtains to the windows, and quantities of
white flowers giving graceful relief to the gold blazonry of furniture
and carpet. The carpet, I may mention, has the Prince of Wales's
feathers woven in the centre--from this the room is named.
[Illustration: PRINCE OF WALES'S ROOM.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
On the wedding day I was enabled to be present at an American reception
given in this room. Furniture was all cleared out and every niche
filled with flowers, with wreaths of same round every picture and
panel; a daïs was erected at the top, and on it stood Lord and Lady
Terence Blackwood on their return from church, everybody who attended
walking up to shake hands and congratulate, then walking off to find
their way to the well-spread tables for "five o'clock tea." Lord and
Lady Dufferin and family mingled with the crowd, talking to everybody;
and though the bride and bridegroom must have been tired with standing
so long, and shaking hands with so many, yet the whole affair was
a deal more enjoyable than the formal breakfast, with the nervous
speeches of the nervous men.
[Illustration: THE RED SALOON.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
Of course, I congratulated the happy couple on behalf of THE STRAND
MAGAZINE, and of course I carried away a piece of _the_ cake, one
of the inimitable Buszard's, all glorious in silver decorations of
flowers, fruit, Irish harps, etc., and mounted on a massive silver
stand. For the benefit of my lady readers, I may remark that the bride
was really beautiful (people generally say they _look_ so, but this
one really _was_); cream satin, Venice point, and orange blossom were
all in due order. But what chiefly interested me was the crowd of
celebrities present--Rothschilds, Ambassadors (whose names are known
and honoured), some of the French nobility, many familiar English
faces, musical and dramatic stars, etc.
[Illustration: THE DINING-ROOM.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
From here I proceed to the Dining Room, a fine apartment lighted
with crystal chandeliers and silver-gilt candelabra, showing a
splendidly painted ceiling, with walls of marble, carved oak, and
crimson panels--these being hung with shields and pieces of armour,
offensive and defensive. On the tables is a fine display of plate,
formerly the property of Jerome Napoleon, a costly Burmese bowl, and
other pieces of presentation plate too numerous to mention. I may
here say that upstairs in the strong-room I saw a remarkably large
collection of plate--some belonging to the Embassy, but a great deal
of it the private property of the Marquis; all was of the richest in
quality and design, but perhaps the gold Buddha from Burmah, a Burmese
cup--wonderfully chased--and some candelabra, copied from originals
found in Pompeii, were of the greatest interest.
From here you can step out into the Inner Hall, and then mount the
splendidly wide marble staircase, soon finding yourself in a most
beautiful suite of apartments.
The Second Red Saloon calls for your particular attention: it has
much in it worth close study. The painted ceiling, brocaded walls,
and parquetry floors are elegant and costly, and the furniture of the
First Empire worth more than passing note; but the chief attraction
undoubtedly is the unique collection of Indian Rajahs, paintings on
ivory; these--seventy, I believe, in number--were presented to His
Excellency before leaving India.
Nearly every one of the miniatures brings up some interesting and
may-be amusing recollection, and carries the family back to sojourns in
various places: at Calcutta, for instance, where Lady Dufferin tells
with glee how on one of her visits she was literally garlanded with
flowers, her pocket-handkerchief copiously drenched with a pungent
scent, and a scented bouquet ornamented with tinsel thrust into her
hands: thus bedecked, she had to drive through the streets, feeling,
I should imagine, like a central figure in a circus display. It seems
it was customary everywhere to make offerings of flowers, fruit,
cakes, and candy; and as these latter were accepted and passed over
to the servants, they were much delighted. The rule regarding other
presents was curious: jewellery, etc., was accepted, but passed on to
the Government Treasury, sold, and presents of equal value returned to
the donors: rather aggravating this, when a specially nice article is
given. Money, too, was often offered, but this was only touched, not
taken!
[Illustration: THE YELLOW SALOON.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
[Illustration: LADY DUFFERIN'S BOUDOIR.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
Then, again, reminders crop up of Burmah, some not very pleasant
ones too, when the bedrooms were kept lively with swarms of lizards,
and even scorpions occasionally putting in an unwelcome appearance.
Or of Simla, where a small Government House was perched at such a
dizzy height as made falling over a precipice a great probability if
venturing too far over the threshold: a place where carriages could not
get along, where everybody had to go out in "jinrikshas," a species of
Bath chair, which was half pulled and half pushed by four and sometimes
six men: processions of them going along in single file, the merry
occupants shouting remarks to the van or rear as they proceeded. Just
you imagine going to church on Sunday morning in this fashion, or
mounted on rough ponies, horses, or anything on legs that could be
obtained. Fancy what a nondescript congregation it must be; occupants
of jinrikshas, ladies in riding gear with boots and spurs complete, and
black servants in every colour of the rainbow.
[Illustration: STATE BEDROOM.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
One might go on for any length of time with these reminiscences, but
there are a few more rooms yet unexplored.
The next one I enter is known as the Yellow Saloon, nearly everything
in it being gold and cream. The ceiling is painted cream and decorated
in gold relief, the walls are hung with gold brocaded silk, carpets and
curtains, settees and chairs all in character. On the walls may be seen
some costly Italian pictures, collected by Lord Dufferin, also a few
more miniatures of Rajahs. The marble mantels in this suite of rooms
are also a special feature, so beautifully are they carved; also you
will note the graceful crystal chandeliers and parquetry floors.
On one side of the room you will observe a very handsome silver-gilt
frame containing a portrait of the Maharajah of Patiala, also a
present. Lord and Lady Dufferin were occasional guests at this Prince's
palace, he entertaining them right royally, even to providing bagpipe
strains for after-dinner performance, the dusky pipers in Scottish
attire, with legs cased in pink silk to keep up the semblance. I
believe time and tune were not much regarded, but what mattered that?
The intention was good.
Opening from here is Lady Dufferin's boudoir, a cosy apartment, crowded
with artistic and useful pieces of furniture; music, books, and family
photographs abound; and here Lady Dufferin finds time for arrangement
and direction of much of the good work in which she is constantly
engaged.
[Illustration: LORD DUFFERIN'S STUDY.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]
I may as well here state that Lady Dufferin is the daughter of the
late Archibald R. Hamilton, Esq., of Killyleagh Castle, Co. Down;
she has orders, the "Crown of India," the "Victoria and Albert," the
"Crescent of the Shefkhat," and "Lion and Sun." Wherever Lord Dufferin
has been appointed, there has Lady Dufferin worked zealously for the
welfare of the poorer classes, but it is perhaps more especially
for her splendid work for the women of India that she is so much
honoured. Most of you know the wretched condition of these poor women,
sufferers through the custom of the country. Lady Dufferin, by her
noble efforts for the training of native women in medical skill, has
earned the gratitude and alleviated the misery of thousands. The amount
of correspondence alone that all this entails upon her ladyship is
prodigious; every minute seems to be fully occupied.
We take a peep into the next room, a State bed-chamber. This, Lady
Dufferin tells me, was formerly used by the Princess Pauline. Over
the bed is displayed the eagle, and the letter "P.," in ormolu, is on
much of the tulip, satinwood, and rosewood furniture, all of which is
covered with the richest of brocades.
There is another room which must not be omitted--Lord Dufferin's study.
Thither I proceed, and thus get a glance of the enormous amount of
business devolving upon the Ambassador and his secretaries.
Everything is of the most orderly in the arrangements: all
correspondence sorted up; papers and books of reference ready to hand;
well-filled bookshelves containing Parliamentary and technical works,
and all the other accessories of a hard-working Minister's room. On
the walls I note a number of family portraits, chief of which are Lady
Dufferin and Lord Ava--the eldest son.
Of the real work done here, few can form any idea; communications from
all parts of the globe, arbitration here, intercession there. Very
much fine tact is wanted to keep all this going smoothly: to uphold
the majesty, please the public, and give no manner of offence. The
multiplicity of affairs, some trivial, some weighty--to an ordinary
mind--would be alarming. Not so long ago I was in conversation with
one, who, residing in a town not far from Paris, had, as I think
deservedly, brought himself under the vengeance of the French law;
but he was an English subject. "So," said he, "I shall appeal to the
Ambassador!" and appeal he did. This just gave me an instance of the
number of petty matters that come for settlement to the Embassy.
Downstairs is another room where any amount of business is transacted,
and where I had a few minutes' chat with Austin Lee, Esq., one of the
secretaries; and opposite are the offices of the Consulate. To one and
another there is a constant stream of people from morning till night;
all sorts and conditions, and on all sorts of business. One thing you
may be sure of: no one who really needs and deserves help or redress
fails in obtaining it; Lord Dufferin and his able assistants--whose
portraits are here presented--not only conducting affairs of State with
dignified ability, but also giving ready sympathy of a practical nature
wherever required.
[Illustration: LORD DUFFERIN'S ASSISTANTS.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stewart, Richmond._]
_Portraits of Celebrities at Different Times of their Lives._
[Illustration: AGE 38.
_From a Photo. by Southwell Bros., Baker St._]