I imagine, receive an answer if I did ask, any English officer about
such things. The general disposition among them is evidently towards the
old government; but their conduct is, as it ought to be, strictly
neutral.]
_July 1st_.--A good deal of sensation has been excited to-day of rather
a painful nature: the Emperor has fallen from his horse, and has broken
two of his ribs, and is otherwise much bruised; however, his youth and
strength prevent any serious apprehension from the consequences of his
accident. There is no public news, and I am much too ill to care for any
other. A foreigner, and alone, and very sick, I have abundant leisure to
see the worth to the world of riches, or the appearance of them, and
show and parade; and to feel that if I had them all, they could neither
relieve the head nor the heart of the suffering or the sorrowful.
I think I am grown selfish: I cannot interest myself in the little
things of other people's lives as I used to do; I require the strong
stimulus of public interest to rouse my attention. It is long since I
have been able to go out among the beautiful scenery here, to enjoy the
charms of nature.
_11th_.--Once more I begin to feel better, and to go out of doors a
little. All sorts of people crowd daily to visit the Emperor, who is
recovering, but is still confined to the house. For the first time for
these many weeks, I took a drive to-day; and went, as far as San
Cristovaŏ, to enquire after His Imperial Majesty, and leave my name. The
road, both as I went and returned, was crowded with carriages and
horsemen, on the same errand. Besides that the people do love him, his
life is of the utmost importance to the very existence of Brazil as an
independent nation at present, at any rate in peace.
_13th_.--I have become acquainted with two or three pleasant Brazilians,
and one or two of the better kind of Portuguese, who have adopted
Brazil.[112] There are not above five Fidalgos of the number, and these
ancient nobles are objects of jealousy to the new, in number about a
dozen, who infinitely surpass them in riches; so that we have the usual
gossip and scandal of courts and cities, in which, as the women are
usually the most active, so they suffer most: nor are our English one
whit behind them. There is not much formal visiting among the English,
but a good deal of quiet tea-drinking, and now and then parties formed
to dine out of doors in the cool weather.
[Note 112: On the 9th of March, an Imperial edict was published,
desiring all such as would not conform to the laws of the empire to quit
it within two months, if they dwelt on the coast, and within four, if
inland, on pain of loss of property; and thenceforth all good subjects
to wear on their arms the green rose and gold badge, with _Independencia
o Morte_, engraved on it.]
In short, my countrywomen here are a discreet sober set of persons, with
not more than a reasonable share of good or bad. They go pretty
regularly to church on Sundays, for we have a very pretty protestant
chapel in Rio, served by a respectable clergyman; meet after church to
luncheon and gossip: some go afterwards to the opera, others play cards,
and some few stay at home, or ride out with their husbands, and instruct
themselves and families by reading; and all this much as it happens in
Europe. However, they are all very civil to me; and why should I see
faults, or be hurt at the absurd stories they tell of me, because they
don't know me? Besides, 'tis no great affront to be called wiser than
one is.
_14th_.--Several prizes have arrived from the Moro of San Paulo. One of
these vessels has brought news from the Moro that I only half like.
After Lord Cochrane's visit to Bahia on the night of the 12th of June,
he had been employed for the eight ensuing days in maturing a plan for a
farther attack, which seemed sure of success; when, on the 20th[113],
"some careless or malignant person set fire to a cask of spirits, which
communicated to other casks, and created such terror, that more than a
hundred persons jumped overboard; some of whom were drowned. It is
calculated that we should have been blown up if the fire had raged only
three minutes longer; and its extinction is chiefly to be ascribed to
the presence of mind and personal exertion of His Lordship himself; who,
I am grieved to add, was so overheated by the blaze and his own
exertions, as to be too ill this morning to leave his bed."
[Note 113: Extracted from a letter written to me on the 21st by a
friend on board.]
_17th_.--At length Bahia has fallen. Madeira, in pursuance of the plans
announced in his proclamation of the 28th, had prepared all his ships of
war, and a great number of merchantmen, with provisions, and ammunition,
and stores: the plate, money, and jewels, were transhipped from the
English vessels to his own, and it was believed he was to sail on the 3d
of July. Lord Cochrane, having intelligence to that effect, had come
alone in the Pedro Primeiro to look into the harbour, on the morning of
the 2d, when he saw the Portuguese squadron loose all their topsails and
prepare to move. This manœuvre was not considered by the English within
the bay as decisive, because it had been practised daily for some time.
His Lordship, however, immediately made signals to the Maria de Gloria
and Nitherohy to join him with all despatch. The Piranga, useless from
her bad sailing, owing to the state of her copper, had been ordered to
Rio; and she and the Liberal, who both arrived to-day, are the bearers
of the official intelligence. Lord Cochrane, whose kindness is
never-failing, writes to me as follows. I do not like to quote, even in
my journal, private letters; but this is short, and tells in few words
all that can be said:--
"MY DEAR MADAM,
"I have been grieved to learn your indisposition; but you must recover,
now that I tell you we have starved the enemy out of Bahia. The forts
were abandoned this morning; and the men of war, 13 in number, with
about 32 sail of transports and merchant vessels, are under sail. We
shall follow (i.e. the Maria da Gloria and Pedro Primeiro) to the
world's end. I say again expect good news. Ever believe me your sincere
and respectful friend,
COCHRANE.
2d July, 1823.
Eight miles north of Bahia."
I learn from the officers of the ships arrived, that the guns were all
spiked, and the magazines blown up in Port Pedro, but otherwise every
thing was left in good order in the town; and on the marching in of the
Brazilian troops not the smallest disorder took place, nor was a life
lost; a circumstance highly honourable to all parties.
Though the Admiral mentions only forty-five vessels, it appears that
there were many more, amounting to at least eighty, who took the
opportunity of getting out with the fleet. When the Piranga left the
Moro, a reinforcement of men had arrived there for the Admiral; and the
Nitherohy was manning herself, and preparing to follow him in a few
hours.
This news is highly acceptable here, except among a class either
secretly attached to, or interested in, Portugal. These are murmuring,
and saying, "Is it not enough for Lord Cochrane to have driven the poor
soldiers out of Bahia, without following to persecute them?" &c. And
others are affecting to despise what they call an easy service. But the
government knows that it was not an easy service to keep the sea with so
small a squadron, so recently formed, against a fleet completely armed
and manned,--vessels of the best class; far less to cut off the
provisions of the enemy, so as to reduce him to the necessity of
abandoning his city.
There are illuminations and a gala opera to-night; but as the Emperor is
not yet able to go, his picture, and that of the Empress, will appear
instead. It is an old Portuguese custom, I believe, to display the
picture of the monarch in his absence on occasions of ceremony.
_18th_.--The city has been thrown into considerable agitation to-day, by
the knowledge, that yesterday the ministry of the Andradas ceased. It
appears that a few days ago, I believe on the 16th, an unknown person
presented a letter at the palace-door, and told the servant who received
it, that his life should not be safe if he did not deliver it into the
Emperor's own hand. The letter was delivered accordingly, and read; upon
which His Imperial Majesty sent for Jose Bonifacio: they remained
closeted for a length of time, and the result of the conference was,
that Jose Bonifacio resigned his employment; and Brazil has lost an able
minister, and the Emperor a zealous servant. It is rumoured that the
letter was written from St. Paul's, and contained at least 300
signatures of persons complaining of the Andradas' tyrannical conduct in
that province; particularly imprisoning persons who had opposed the
election of certain members of the assembly, and ordering others, on
various pretexts, to repair to Rio, where they had been kept away from
their families.
These things, however, are capable of a favourable interpretation; and,
in such stormy times, some severity may have been necessary, or, indeed,
the zeal of the minister may have carried him too far.[114]
[Note 114: The discussions in the assembly of the 9th of May throw
much light on this transaction.]
However that may be, the resignation of Jose Bonifacio is certain; and
not less so that of his brother, Martim Francisco, whose unimpeachable
integrity at the head of the treasury it will not be easy to supply. The
conjectures, reasonings, and reports, on these subjects, are, of course,
very various. The most general idea is, that the Andradas are
overpowered by a republican party in the assembly; which, though small,
has a decided plan, and works accordingly; and, oddly enough, their fall
is said to have been brought about by an attempt, on their part, to get
rid of old monarchy men. Monis Tavares, a clever man, whose name will be
remembered in the sittings of the Lisbon Cortes as an advocate for
Brazil, proposed in an early sitting of the assembly, May 22, the
absolute expulsion from Brazil of all persons born in Portugal. The
proposal gave rise to a warm discussion, and was negatived. This defeat
was the signal for all the Portuguese party, and they are not weak, to
join with the republicans to overthrow the Andradas; and they have
succeeded. Such is the view taken of this business by many intelligent
persons. However the fact may be, the Emperor's feeling to disclaim all
tyranny or connivance at tyranny, is praiseworthy; but a well-wisher to
Brazil may be permitted to desire that such able men had proved their
innocence to his satisfaction, and had retained their situations. This
evening the Emperor has circulated the following address to his
people:--
"Inhabitants of Brazil,
"The government which does not guide itself by public opinion, or which
is ignorant of it, must become the scourge of humanity. The monarch who
knows not this truth will precipitate his empire into a gulf of
misfortunes, each more terrible than the preceding. Providence has
granted to me the knowledge of this truth. I have founded my system on
it, and to that system I will be faithful.
"Despotism and arbitrary acts are detested by me. It is but a short time
since that I gave you one among many other proofs of this. We may all be
deceived; but monarchs rarely hear the truth: if they do not seek it, it
seldom appears to them. When once they know it, they should follow it. I
have known it, and I do act accordingly. Although we have not yet a
fixed constitution to govern ourselves by, we have at least those
foundations for one, built on reason, which ought to be inviolable.
These are the sacred rights of personal security, property, and the
inviolability of the home of every citizen. If these have hitherto been
violated, it was because your Emperor knew not that such despotism and
acts of arbitrary power, improper at all times, and contrary to the
system we profess, were exercised. Be assured that henceforth they shall
be religiously supported: you shall live happy and safe in the bosoms of
your families, in the arms of your tender wives, and surrounded by your
beloved children. In vain shall imprudent men try to belie my
constitutional principles; they will always triumph, as the sun breaks
through the darkest clouds. Rely upon me, as I on you, and you will see
democracy and despotism annihilated by rational liberty.
THE EMPEROR."
The address has been well received; and perhaps those incidents, which,
in a time like the present, bring the monarch and people more together,
are really conducive to the harmony and stability of the whole political
system. Meantime, Jose Joaquim Carneiro de Campos is prime minister, and
Manoel Jacintho Noguerra de Gama is at the head of the treasury; a man
so rich as to be above temptation, and whose character for integrity is
scarcely lower than that of his predecessor.
_July 23d_.--I had for some time promised to paint a sketch of San
Cristavaŏ for the Empress, and to-day I resolved to carry it to her. So
I went, and on my way breakfasted at my good friend the Viscondeça do
Rio Seco's; I then proceeded to the palace, and went up first to enquire
after the Emperor's health: while I was writing my name, he, having
perceived me arrive from the window, politely sent to say he would see
me, and accordingly I was ushered into the presence-chamber by the
Viador Don Luiz da Ponte; there I saw ministers and generals all in
state. The Emperor was in a small inner room, where were his piano, his
shooting apparatus, &c.; he was in an undressed cotton jacket with his
arm in a sling, but looking well, although thinner and paler than
formerly: he sent for the little picture, with which he seemed much
pleased; and after speaking for some time very politely in French, I
made my courtesy and retired. I then went to the Empress's apartment:
she was out, but I was asked to wait for her return from her walk; and
in the meantime I saw the young Princesses, who are extremely fair, and
like Her Imperial Majesty, especially the eldest, Dona Maria da Gloria,
who has one of the most intelligent faces I have seen. The Empress came
in soon, and talked to me a good while on a variety of subjects, and
very kindly of my late illness. Setting aside the consideration of her
high rank, it is not a little pleasing to me to meet so well-educated
and well-bred a woman; and I felt quite sorry to leave her without
telling her so: she is in all respects an amiable and respectable woman.
No distressed person ever applies to her in vain; and her conduct, both
public and private, justly commands the admiration and love of her
family and subjects: her personal accomplishments would adorn the
station of a private gentlewoman; her temper, prudence, and courage, fit
her for her high situation. On my way back to town I stopped at a
country-house belonging to M. do Rio Seco: it is called Rio Comprido,
and is remarkable for its garden; the outer hedge of which is like a
fairy bower, or rather might adorn the gardens of Armida. A fence,
breast-high, of myrtle and other evergreens, is surmounted by arcades
of ever-blowing roses; among which a jessamine, or a scarlet or purple
creeper, twines itself occasionally, enriching the flowery cornice of
the pillars between which the paths of entrance lie. The inner part one
might indeed wish less stiff; but then all is kept in such order, and
filled with such rich flowers and shrubs, that one knows not how the
change might be made with advantage. The house is low, and pleasant for
the climate; the orchard, kitchen garden, and grass fields behind,
delightful; and the whole is surrounded by beautiful views. The Padre
Jose, who is the chaplain, is also the overseer of the estate; a
combination of offices that I find is usual here.
After passing some hours there with my hospitable friends, I returned to
town, and spent an hour with my friend Dona Carlota de Carvalho e Mello,
and met a number of the ladies of her family; and among the rest, her
aunt, the wife of Manoel Jacintho, the new minister of finance, one of
the most pleasing women I have seen in Brazil. I had the pleasure of
complimenting Dona Carlota's father, on having just received his
commission as member of the assembly for Bahia, now it is free: I might,
with truth, have complimented Bahia on so judicious a choice. I returned
home early, notwithstanding the entreaties of my young friend that I
would stay, as she considered the evening scarcely begun: the family is
so large, that, at the house of one or the other, there is always a
pleasant evening society. The men converse apart till tea-time, after
which music or dancing brings at least the younger part to join the
ladies; and it is seldom that they separate before midnight.
_July 25th_.--Our society at Botafogo is enlivened by the arrival of
Commodore Sir T. Hardy, who occupies the house of the disembargador
França, and who is not only cheerful and sociable himself, but causes
cheerfulness around him. The officers of his own ship, and those of the
rest of the squadron, are of course great acquisitions to the parties at
Rio; but I see little of them: my dull house, and duller self, offering
nothing inviting except to the midshipmen of my old ship, who visit me
very constantly. I have bought a small horse[115] for the sake of
exercise, and sometimes accompany the boys on their evening rides. Last
night I went with two of them to the Praya Vermelha; and finding the
officer of the guard at the gate of the fort, we asked leave to go in,
which being granted, we entered, and walked about admiring the views. It
was the first time I had seen the little bay Vermelha from the land
side, the fort being built quite along the isthmus that unites the
Sugar-loaf with the mainland. We remained without thinking of the time
till the sun was fairly set; and then, on returning to the gate, we
found it shut, and that the keys had been carried to the governor. So I
had to go to the officer of the guard, who understanding what had
happened, ordered the guard under arms, and went himself for the keys,
and conducted us out of the fort with great politeness. Wherever I have
met with Brazilians, from the greatest to the meanest, I must say I have
always experienced the greatest politeness: from the fidalgo who calls
on me in full court costume, to the peasant, or the common soldier, I
have had occasion to admire, and be grateful for, their courtesy.
[Note 115: For this beast, which is really fit for nothing but the
riding of an invalid like myself, I gave 35 milrees; a price for which,
in Chile, one might buy a very fine horse.]
_August 1st, 1823_.--The English packet arrived to-day; and brings news
that the royal party in Lisbon have overpowered that of the Cortes. This
intelligence is looked on as very important here, because it is hoped
that the court may be more easily induced to acknowledge the
independence of Brazil; and it is said that the authorities in Madeira
have already orders to receive, and treat amicably, ships under the
Brazilian flag. The general tone of politics here is less pleasing than
it has been. There have been some disagreeable discussions in the
assembly: a vote has passed refusing the veto to the Emperor; and it is
said that the republican party is so elated on the occasion, that they
think of proposing to refuse him the command of the army. The
Imperialists are of course indignant at all this. However, we shall see
what will happen when the deputation of the assembly carries up the
notice of the vote, as it is said will be done next week, when the
Emperor will be strong enough to receive it. He is now so well that he
intends in ten days to return thanks at the church of Santa Maria da
Gloria, and means on the same day to review the troops at San Cristovaŏ.
They are collecting there for that purpose; and I saw the artillery
marching that way to-day while I was in town, whither I went to purchase
some newspapers, particularly the Diario da Assemblea. I take it very
ill that ladies may not attend the sittings of the assembly, not that I
know there is any formal prohibition; but the thing is considered as so
impossible, that I cannot go. It is provided with a gallery? scarcely
larger in proportion than that of the English House of Commons, for
strangers; and the proceedings are published. The members speak standing
in their places: they are something more dressed than the Commons in
England; but they have no peculiar costume. The President or Speaker is
changed monthly.
_3d_.--I drank tea at the Baronesa de Campos'; and met a large family
party, which always assembles on Sundays to pay their respects to the
old lady. The tea was made by one of the young ladies, with the
assistance of her sister, just as it would be in England. A large silver
urn, silver tea-pots, milk-jugs, and sugar-dishes, with elegant china,
were placed on a large table; round which several of the young people
assembled, and sent round the tea to us, who sat at a distance. All
sorts of bread, cakes, buttered toast, and rusks were handed with the
tea; and after it was removed, sweetmeats of every description were
presented, after which every body took a glass of water.
_6th_.--Sailed to-day, H.M. ship Beaver, with my friend Mr. Dance as
acting captain; the world says she takes some very important despatches
relating to the commerce of England with the independent provinces of La
Plata; but as the world often tells what is not true, and as what is
true is never confessed by those who know officially, I never trouble
myself to ask about these things. I am sorry to see almost my last
friend leave the station before me: but I am now so used to losing, one
way or another, all who from any motive have ever acted or felt kindly
to me, that I hope soon to grow callous to the pain such loss still
gives. It is in vain that I flatter myself that I have recovered the
tone of my mind. I am affected even to weakness by every little
incident, and am obliged to take refuge from my private feelings, in the
interest that I have lately forced myself to take in the affairs of this
country; and surely, where the happiness of millions of its
fellow-creatures is at stake, the human heart may unblamed busy itself.
This morning Sir T. Hardy, who is always anxious to do kind offices,
carried me to call on Mrs. Chamberlain: I can truly say, if I had known
her ideas on the subject of etiquette, I should have called on her
before; and therefore I am glad to do what is expected.[116] She seems
to be a well-informed woman, with pleasant manners.
[Note 116: Notwithstanding the peculiar circumstances, both on my
own account and that of the invalid I had with me, of my return to Rio,
Mrs. C----, the wife of the British consul, took no notice of my
arrival. I learnt afterwards, that it is expected that women, as well as
men, should call on the consuls. I was not aware of this, having
_formerly_ received the first visits in such cases.]
After I returned, I joined a party in a pleasant ride to the _Copa
Cabana_, a little fort that defends one of the small bays behind that of
Vermelha, and whence there are to be seen some of the most beautiful
views here. The woods in the neighbourhood are very fine, and produce a
great deal of the excellent fruit called the Cambucá; and among the
hills the small oppossum and the armadillo are frequently found.