AN IDLE AFTERNOON

I have heard of a man who invariably begins his letters, whether of

friendship or business, with a bulletin of the day’s weather: it rains,

or it shines; it is cold or warm; and to my way of thinking it is far

from certain that the custom is not commendable. It is fair to sender

and receiver alike that the mental conditions under which an epistle

is written should be understood; and there is no man--or no ordinary

man, such as most of us have the happiness to deal with--whose thoughts

and language are not more or less colored by those skyey influences

the sum of which we designate by the interrogative name of weather. I

say “interrogative,” because I assume, although, having no dictionary

by me, I cannot verify the assumption, that the word “weather” is only

a corruption or variant of the older word “whether;” the thing itself

being an entity so variable and doubtful that remarks about it fall

naturally, and almost of necessity, into a discussion of probabilities,

in other words, of “whether.”

As to the weather here in Tucson, I could fill all my letters with

it, and still leave a world of things unsaid. Its fluctuations are so

constant that they tend to become monotonous; as Thoreau said of one of

his Concord days, that it was so wet you might almost call it dry.

Three or four mornings ago, for example, I started early for a

seven-mile tramp across the desert. I wore overcoat and woolen gloves,

and needed them. It was so cool, indeed, that I left word for an extra

garment to be put into the carriage that was to come out and fetch me

back at noon.

That same afternoon I walked down into the valley of the Santa Cruz.

The sun was blazing, and the heat intense. The few cottonwood trees

scattered along the road were still leafless (I had left my umbrella

at home--for the last time) and the only shelter to be found was on

the northeasterly side of the telegraph poles. I believe I never

before complained of such obstructions that they were not big enough;

but everything comes round in its turn. My thoughts ran back to the

time when a boy of my acquaintance used to trudge homeward from

berry-picking excursions on burning July noons. Also I thought of that

comfortable Hebrew text about the “shadow of a great rock in a weary

land.” The man who wrote that might have lived in Arizona. Finally,

out of sheer desperation, I stepped into the yard of a little adobe

house, and being obliged to walk almost to the door, said to the

motherly-looking woman who came forward to see what was wanted, “Excuse

me, please, but I only wish to stand a few minutes in the shade of your

house.” She looked surprised, as well she might. No doubt she took me

for an invalid, as Arizona people say, a “lunger.” Probably, sitting

indoors, and used to summer temperature in these parts, she had been

thinking of the day as rather cool, not to say wintry. Wouldn’t I come

in and sit awhile? She was sure I should be welcome. But I answered no;

I only desired to stand a few minutes in the shade. And two or three

hours afterward, within five minutes after the sun went down,--though

it had been shining in at my west window,--I needed a fire.

Forty-eight hours later we had a snowfall,--the third within ten

days,--the whole world white, with “storm rubbers” barely equal to the

emergency; and the next morning, the snow having gone, ice was thick in

a big tub of water outside my door.

“Cold?” said an Illinois gentleman, with whom I fell into conversation

yesterday, “I’ve been here three weeks, and in that time I’ve suffered

more from cold than in all my forty years.”

I suspect that he exaggerated. For my own part, I haven’t suffered from

cold. It is the occasional heat that makes me fearful of homesickness.

Three days like that one afternoon would set me packing. All of which

may seem not very important to a chance reader; but unless he is of a

hopelessly unimaginative turn he can perhaps conceive how interesting

and important it must be to the parties directly concerned, especially

if he remembers that this is a winter resort, where weather is the one

thing needful.

But what a perfect afternoon we had yesterday!--cool, yet not too cool;

and warm, yet not too warm; with a softness and yet a gently bracing,

uplifting, pulse-quickening, life-reviving quality in the air; and the

sky, too, clear, but not too clear, so that wisps of cloud floated here

and there over the bare, steep sides of the Santa Catalinas, giving

them beauty. I was out upon the desert in a mood of absolute indolence,

contented to walk a mile an hour, and breathe and breathe, and look. At

such times it seems hardly too much to say, strange as the words may

sound, that I am falling in love with the desert, a desert bounded only

by mountains. Already I can believe that men are fascinated by it (the

right men), and having once been here cannot long stay away.

Looking and dreaming, the bird-gazer within me pretty well laid asleep,

suddenly I heard a strange voice in the air, thin, insect-like,

unknown. By the time it had sounded twice the sleeper was wide-awake,

with his opera-glass in play. The voice came from yonder thin clump of

creosote bushes. Yes, the bird flits into sight--a gnatcatcher; and

being a gnatcatcher, with such a note, it must be “the other one,”

known as the plumbeous, which I have been looking for ever since my

arrival in Tucson. And so it was--a pretty creature with a jaunty black

cap. I shall know him henceforth, I hope, even without seeing him.

We are fortunate, both of us, I take leave to say, to have made each

other’s acquaintance on so ideal an afternoon.

The gnatcatcher disappeared, and the dreamer was just dozing off again,

when two large birds were seen to be having a hot encounter, high

overhead. This time the field-glass came into requisition. A raven was

teasing a red-tailed hawk, with all a raven’s pertinacity and spite.

Again and again and again he swooped upon him, while the hawk ducked

and turned to avoid the stroke. Why the big fellow, biggest of all our

hawks, larger and stronger in every way than the raven, did not face

his tormentor and lay him out was a mystery. I confess, I should have

been glad to see him do it. Instead, he made off toward the mountains,

and after a long chase and much croaking, the raven turned away.

This also had passed out of mind, and I was on my way homeward, barely

putting one foot before the other, enjoying the air and the sun,--and

the mountains,--when, happening to glance upward, I beheld a grand

sight. “That’s the golden eagle,” I said aloud (in the desert a man

soon falls into the neighborly habit of talking to himself), and one

look through the field-glass proved the words correct. The great bird

was in perfect light, sailing in circles, so that his upper parts came

every minute into full view as he swung about, the old gold of the

head and neck, as well as the contrasted brown and black of the wings,

perfectly displayed, with nothing left for guesswork. I was all eyes,

and watched him and watched him, admiring especially the firm set of

his wings, till he, too, sailed away, not chased, but moving of his own

royal will, and dropped at last out of sight behind the rolling desert.

He was my first golden eagle, in some respects one of the noblest

of all North American birds. I knew him to be not uncommon in the

mountains, and had hoped some day to see him passing, especially when

I should be far out on the edge of the foothills; and behold, here he

was on my idle afternoon, close at home. Who says that the lame and the

lazy are not provided for?

My dreamy saunter was turning out ornithological in spite of myself,

and as if the gnatcatcher and the eagle had not done enough to that

end, the ubiquitous raven now took a hand at the business. My thoughts

were just settling back into vacancy, when the ravens were seen to be

commencing their regular afternoon progress to their roosting grounds,

wherever those may be, on the other side of the city. A detachment of

some scores was already on the move. And presently I observed what was

to me a strange and interesting thing, although, for aught I can affirm

to the contrary, it may be only an every-day occurrence.

A great part of the birds were playing by twos, one chasing the

other, as if engaged in a frolic to which all parties were perfectly

accustomed. I had not expected such a pitch of levity on the part of

these black-suited, and as I should have thought, rather gloomy-natured

scavengers. But they were going to roost, and like children at the

hour of bedtime, they were making a lark of it. Perhaps the day’s

picking had been uncommonly good; they had been over by a certain

cattle-slaughtering establishment; something, at all events, had put

them in high spirits, and so Tom was having it out with Dick, and Bob

with Harry. To look at them, it seemed as much fun as a pillow-fight,

and as I have said, the greater part of the flock were engaged in it.

But the point I started to speak of was not the game itself, but a

certain acrobatic feat by which it was accompanied. Again and again,

in the course of their doublings and duckings, I saw the birds turn

what looked to be a complete sidewise somersault. It may have been

an optical illusion; probably it was; but if so, it was absolute.

Sure I am that more than once I saw a bird flat on his back in the

air (as flat on his back as ever a swimmer was in water), and to all

appearance, as I say, he did not turn back, but came up like a flash on

the other side. Fact or illusion, clean over or halfway over, it was

a clever trick, and I could not wonder that the birds seemed to take

pleasure in its repetition. I imagined they were as proud of it as a

young gymnast ever was of his newly acquired back handspring. And why

not? A man must be extremely well contented with himself, or possess a

feeble imagination, not to feel sometimes a twinge of envy at sight of

a bird’s superiorities.[16]

And while one flock of ravens were playing “it” in this brilliant

fashion, another and larger flock were sailing in mazy circles after

the manner of sea-gulls; a fascinating spectacle, to be witnessed here

every afternoon by any who will be at the trouble to look up. More than

once I have watched hundreds of the birds thus engaged, not all at the

same elevation, be it understood, but circle above circle--a kind of

Jacob’s ladder--till the top ones were almost at heaven’s gate. It is a

good time to be out on the desert when the ravens are going to roost.

And what with their soarings and tumblings, I have begun to think that

perhaps the big hawk was not such an absolute fool, after all, to

decline an aerial combat. The white-necked raven may be only a little

larger kind of crow, but he is a wonder on the wing.

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