thing in a state of defence. Shech Mohammed advised the citizens to
divide themselves into districts; which being complied with, it was
resolved that every man should provide himself with arms, who should
be able to purchase them; and that those who could not should be armed
at the public expence. At the end of about a month, notice was brought
that two Cashefs were on their way, with a body of troops, to punish
the inhabitants for their contumacious behaviour. When their arrival
at Rashîd was known, the Alexandrians sent them word, that if they
came without hostile intentions, they would be peaceably received:
but if it were their design to have recourse to violent measures,
the whole force of the city would be opposed to their entrance. One
of these Cashefs afterwards proved to be the same who had before been
sent back. The other was a man of the first rank, having formerly
filled the office of Yenktchery Aga. They were in fact unattended,
except by the domestics of this latter, perhaps in all two hundred
men, chiefly on foot. The Cashef declared he had no view but to
certify that the minds of the citizens were not alienated from the
government, nor their intentions hostile to it; which from the news,
that they were putting themselves in a state of defence, Murad Bey
had been led to imagine. Yet he recommended it to them, in proof
of their pacific disposition, to depute three or four of the chief
citizens to Kahira, who might have an opportunity of informing the
Beys concerning such grievances as they should have found reason to
represent, and might pave the way to a future good understanding.
This was not complied with, and the Cashef remained without
proposing any alternative. After fourteen or fifteen days he left
Alexandria, with a present of very small value from the citizens,
and some trifles given him, in respect to the character he bore,
by the European merchants. So ended this great turmoil, which I have
mentioned perhaps at too great length; but which throws some light
on the situation and character of the late government.
CHAP. II.
JOURNEY TO SIWA.
_Attempt to penetrate to the Temple of Jupiter Ammon — Route and
Provisions — Animals of the Desert — Occurrences on the Road —
Description of Siwa — Antient Edifice — Intercourse with other
Countries — Produce and Manners — Attempt to penetrate farther
into the Desert — Return._
The information I had obtained in Alexandria having induced me
to resolve on attempting to explore the vestiges of the Temple
of Jupiter Ammon from that place, I procured a proper person as
interpreter, and made the necessary arrangements with some Arabs,
who are employed in transporting through the desert, dates and other
articles, between Siwa (a small town to the westward) and Alexandria,
to convey my baggage and provisions, and to procure for me a secure
passage among the other tribes of Arabs, who feed their flocks at
this season in the vicinity of the coast. In this I was much assisted
by Mr. Baldwin, who readily entered into my views, and used all the
means in his power to promote their success.
When the Arabs had finished the business on which they came to
the city, and had fixed on an hour, as they thought, auspicious
to travellers, they made ready for departure; and on Friday, 24th
February 1792, we left Alexandria. The inclinations of my conductors
were in unison with mine, in the choice of a route; for they preferred
that nearest the sea, for the sake of forage for their camels, which
abounds more there than in the direct road; and I preferred it,
as being the same that Alexander had chosen for the march of his army.
We travelled the first day only about eight miles[5], in which
space several foundations of buildings are discoverable; but so
imperfect are the remains, that it is not possible to say whether
they were antient or modern, or to what purpose they might have
been applied. From that time till Sunday, 4th March, our route lay
along the coast, and we were never long together out of sight of
the sea. The coast is plain; and after having left the neighbourhood
of Alexandria, where it is rocky, the soil is generally smooth and
sandy. Many spots of verdure, particularly at this season, relieve the
eye from the effect of general barrenness: and though the vegetation
be very inconsiderable, the greater part of it consisting only of
different kinds of the grasswort, or kali, it offers a seasonable
relief to the suffering camel. For our horses we were obliged to
carry a constant supply of barley and cut straw.
There are several kinds of preserved meat prepared among the orientals
for long journies. They obviate the inconveniency of salt provision
by using clarified butter. The kind most used is called _mishli_,
and will keep good for many years. It is brought from Western Barbary
to Kahira.
In the places where we generally rested are found the jerboa,
the tortoise, the lizard, and some serpents, but not in great
number. There is also an immense quantity of snails attached to the
thorny plants on which the camels feed. These the Arabs frequently
eat. Very few birds were visible in this quarter, except of the
marine kind. One of our party killed a small hawk, which was
the only one I saw. Near the few springs of water are found wild
rabbits, which in Arabic they distinguish by the same name as the
hare, (ارنب) and the track of the antelope and the ostrich are
frequently discoverable. We passed no day without being incommoded
with frequent showers; and generally a cold wind from north-west and
north-west by north. Several small parties of Bedouins, who were
feeding a few goats, sheep, and asses, were encamped in the road,
and in the vicinity of the lake Mareotis, now dry. Such of them as
were the friends of our conductor received us with every mark of
hospitality and kindness; and regaled us with milk, dates, and bread
newly baked. One party, indeed, became contentious for a present,
or tribute on passing; but being in no condition to enforce their
demand, it was after a time relinquished.
On Sunday the 4th, having travelled about six hours, we came to
a well where was a copious supply of water; and having given the
camels time to drink, we left the coast, and proceeded in a south-west
direction. From Alexandria to this well, the time employed in motion
was seventy-five hours and an half, or nearly so. Thence to Siwa,
there being little or no water, we were obliged to use all possible
diligence in the route. Our arrival there happened on Friday the 9th,
at eight in the evening. The space of time we were actually travelling
from the coast, was sixty two hours and a quarter. The road from the
shore inward to Siwa is perfectly barren, consisting wholly of rocks
and sand, among which talc is found in great abundance. On Wednesday
the 7th, at night, we had reached a small village called قارة
ام الصغير Karet-am-el Sogheir: it is a miserable place, the buildings
being chiefly of clay; and the people remarkably poor and dirty. It
afforded the seasonable relief of fresh water, a small quantity of
mutton, (for the Shech el Bellad was kind enough to kill a sheep, in
return for some trifling presents which were made him,) and wood to
dress pilau, from which we had been obliged to abstain since leaving
the coast. This village is independent, and its environs afford nothing
but dates, in which even the camels and asses of this quarter are
accustomed to find their nourishment.
For about a mile and an half from Karet-am-el Sogheir the country
is sprinkled with date trees, and some water is found. After which
it again becomes perfectly desert, consisting of the same mountains
of sand and barren rock, as before remarked, for the space of about
five hours travelling. Then we were employed for more than eight hours
in passing an extensive plain of barren sand, which was succeeded by
other low hills and rocks. I observed, through a large portion of the
road, that the surface of the earth is perfectly covered with salt.
We at length came to Siwa, which answers the description given of
the Oases, as being a small fertile spot, surrounded on all sides by
desert land. It was about half an hour from the time of our entrance
on this territory, by a path surrounded with date trees, that we
came to the town, which gives name to the district. We dismounted,
and seated ourselves, as is usual for strangers in this country,
on a _misjed_, or place used for prayer, adjoining the tomb of
a _Marabût_, or holy person. In a short time the chiefs came to
congratulate us on our arrival, with the grave but simple ceremony
that is in general use among the Arabs. They then conducted us to
an apartment, which, though not very commodious, was the best they
were provided with; and after a short interval, a large dish of rice
and some boiled meat were brought; the Shechs attending while the
company was served, which consisted of my interpreter, our conductor,
two other Bedouins our companions, and myself.
I should here mention that my attendants, finding reason to fear that
the reception of a Frank, as such, would not be very favourable,
had thought proper to make me pass for a Mamlûk. Not having
had any intimation of this till it was too late, and unable as I
then was to converse in Arabic, it was almost impossible to remain
undiscovered. Our arrival happening before the evening prayer, when
the people of the place disposed themselves to devotion, in the
observance of which they are very rigorous, it was remarked that I
did not join. This alone was sufficient to create suspicions, and
the next morning my interpreter was obliged to explain. The Shechs
seemed surprised at a Christian having penetrated thus far, with some
expence and difficulty, and apparently without having any urgent
business to transact. But all, except one of them, were disposed
to conciliation; inclined thereto, no doubt, by a present of some
useful articles that had been brought for them. This one was, with
the herd of the people, violently exasperated at the insolence of an
unbeliever, in personating and wearing the dress of a Mohammedan. At
first they insisted on my instant return, or immediate conversion to
the true faith; and threatened to assault the house, if compliance
with these terms should be refused. After much altercation, and loud
vociferations, the more moderate gained so far by their remonstrances,
that it was permitted I should remain there two or three days to
rest. But so little were the chiefs able to keep peace, that during
the two days ensuing, whenever I quitted my apartment, it was only
to be assailed with stones, and a torrent of abusive language. The
time that had been allowed me to rest operated favourably for my
interest, at least with the chiefs, though the populace continued
somewhat intractable. For the former were contented on the fourth day
to permit me to walk, and observe what was remarkable in the place.
We left our apartment at day-break, before any great number of people
was assembled; and having taken with me such instruments as I was
provided with, we passed along some shady paths, between the gardens,
till at the distance of about two miles we arrived at what they
called the ruins, or _birbé_. I was greatly surprised at finding
myself near a building of undoubted antiquity, and, though small,
in every view worthy of remark. It was a single apartment, built of
massy stones, of the same kind as those of which the pyramids consist;
and covered originally with six large and solid blocks, that reach
from one wall to the other. The length I found thirty-two feet in the
clear; the height about eighteen, the width fifteen. A gate, situated
at one extremity, forms the principal entrance; and two doors, also
near that extremity, open opposite to each other. The other end is
quite ruinous; but, judging from circumstances, it may be imagined
that the building has never been much larger than it now is. There
is no appearance of any other edifice having been attached to it,
and the less so as there are remains of sculpture on the exterior of
the walls. In the interior are three rows of emblematical figures,
apparently designed to represent a procession: and the space between
them is filled with hieroglyphic characters, properly so called. The
soffit is also adorned in the same manner, but one of the stones which
formed it is fallen within, and breaks the connection. The other
five remain entire. The sculpture is sufficiently distinguishable;
and even the colours in some places remain. The soil around seems
to indicate that other buildings have once existed near the place;
the materials of which either time has levelled with the soil, or
the natives have applied to other purposes. I observed, indeed,
some hewn stones wrought in the walls of the modern buildings,
but was unable to identify them by any marks of sculpture.
It was mentioned to me that there were many other ruins near; but
after walking for some time where they were described to be, and
observing that they pointed out as ruins what were in fact only rough
stones, apparently detached from the rock, I returned fatigued and
dissatisfied. The Shechs had provided for us a dinner in a garden,
where we were unmolested by intruders; and the sun being then near
the meridian, I took the opportunity of observing its altitude by
means of an artificial horizon. They who are best versed in these
matters will be far from thinking this the most accurate method of
determining the latitude. But the result was not materially different,
though in the sequel I repeated my observation. It gave N. L. 29°
12′, and a fraction:—the long. E. F. 44° 54′.
The following day I was led to some apartments cut in the rock,
which had the appearance of places of sepulture. They are without
ornament or inscription, but have been hewn with some labour. They
appear all to have been opened; and now contain nothing that can with
certainty point out the use to which they may have been originally
applied. Yet there are many parts of human sculls, and other bones,
with fragments of skin, and even of hair, attached to them. All these
have undergone the action of fire: but whether they are the remains
of bodies, reposited there by a people in the habit of burning the
dead, or whether they have been burned, in this their detached state,
by the present inhabitants, it must now be difficult to affirm. Yet
the size of the catacombs would induce the belief that they were
designed for bodies in an unmutilated state; the proportions being,
length twelve feet, width six, height about six. The number of these
caverns may amount to thirty, or more.
Having found a monument so evidently Egyptian in this remote quarter,
I had the greater hope of meeting with something more considerable
by going farther; or of being able to gain some information from the
natives, or the Arabs, that would fix exactly the position of the
remains, if any such there were, of the far-famed Temple of Jupiter
Ammon. The people of Siwa have communications equally with Egypt and
Fezzan, and the wandering Arabs pass the desert in all directions,
in their visits to that small territory, where they are furnished
at a cheaper rate with many articles of food than they can be in
the towns of Egypt. They pass thither from Elwah, from Feium, and
the district of Thebes, from Fezzan, from Tripoli, from Kahira, and
from Alexandria. It seemed therefore unlikely that any considerable
ruins should exist within three or four days of Siwa, and unknown to
them; still less so that they should be ignorant of any fertile spot,
where might be found water, fruits, and other acceptable refreshments.
I therefore, by means of my interpreter, whom I had always found
honest in his report, and attentive to my wishes, collected three
of the Shechs who had shewn themselves most friendly to us, with my
conductor, and two other Arabs who happened to be there. They entered
freely into conversation about the roads, and described what was known
to them of Elwah, Fezzan, and other places. But in the direction
laid down for the site of the temple, they declared themselves
ignorant of any such remains. I inquired for a place of the name of
_Santrieh_, but of this too they professed their ignorance. Then,
said I, if you know of no place by the name I have mentioned, and of
no ruins in the direction or at the distance described, do you know
of no ruins whatever farther to the westward or south-west? Yes,
said one of them, there is a place called _Araschié_, where are
ruins, but you cannot go to them, for it is surrounded by water,
and there are no boats. He then entered into an enchanted history
of this place; and concluded with dissuading me from going there. I
soon found, from the description, that _Araschié_ was not the Oasis
of Ammon, but conceiving it something gained to pass farther west,
and that possibly some object might eventually offer itself that
would lead to farther discovery, I determined, if it were possible,
to proceed thither.
For this purpose we were obliged to use all possible secrecy, as the
Siwese were bent on opposing our farther progress. An agreement was
therefore made with two persons of the poorer class of the natives,
for a few zecchins, that they should conduct us to _Araschié_;
and if what we sought for was not there found, that they should,
on leaving it, proceed with us to the first watering-place that
they knew directly to the southward. The remainder of the time I
stayed at Siwa was employed in combating the difficulties that were
raised about our departure; and it was not till Monday, 12th March,
that we were enabled to commence our journey west.
The Oasis which contains the town Siwa, is about six miles long,
and four and a half or five wide. A large proportion of this space
is filled with date trees; but there are also pomegranates, figs,
and olives, apricots and plantains; and the gardens are remarkable
flourishing. They cultivate a considerable quantity of rice,
which, however, is of a reddish hue, and different from that of
the Delta. The remainder of the cultivable land furnishes wheat
enough for the consumption of the inhabitants. Water, both salt
and fresh, abounds; but the springs which furnish the latter are
most of them tepid; and such is the nature of the water, air, and
other circumstances, that strangers are often affected with agues
and malignant fevers. One of those springs, which rises near the
building described, is observed by the natives to be sometimes cold
and sometimes warm.
I had been incommoded by the cold in the way, but in the town I found
the heat oppressive, though thus early in the season. The government
is in the hands of four or five Shechs, three of whom in my time
were brothers, which induced me to suppose that their dignity was
hereditary; but the information I received rather imported that,
ostensibly, the maxim _detur digniori_ was observed in the election,
though, in fact, the party each was able to form among the people,
was the real cause of his advancement. These parties, as well as
the Shechs, are continually opposed to each other, which renders it
difficult to carry any measure of public utility. The Shechs perform
the office of Cadi, and have the administration of justice entirely
in their own hands. But though external respect is shewn them,
they have not that preponderating influence that is required for
the preservation of public order. On the slightest grounds arms are
taken up; and the hostile families fire on each other in the street,
and from the houses. I observed many individuals who bore the marks
of these intestine wars on their bodies and limbs. Perhaps too it is
to the debility of the executive power that we are to attribute some
crimes, that seem almost exclusively to belong to a different state of
society. While I was there, a newly born infant was found murdered,
having been thrown from the top of a house. I understood that these
accidents were not unfrequent. It would seem an indirect proof of
libertinism in the women, which, however, no other circumstance led me
to suppose. Inquiry was instituted, but no means offering to identify
the perpetrator of the crime, the matter was dropped. The complexion
of the people is generally darker than that of the Egyptians. Their
dialect is also different. They are not in the habitual use either
of coffee or tobacco. Their sect is that of Malik. The dress of the
lower class is very simple, they being almost naked: among those
whose costume was discernible, it approaches nearer to that of the
Arabs of the desert, than of the Egyptians or Moors. Their clothing
consists of a shirt of white cotton, with large sleeves, and reaching
to the feet; a red Tunisine cap, without a turban; and shoes of the
same colour. In warm weather they commonly cast on the shoulder a
blue and white cloth, called in Egypt _melayé_; and in winter they
are defended from the cold by an _ihhram_, or blanket. The list of
their household furniture is very short; some earthen ware made by
themselves, and a few mats, form the chief part of it, none but the
richer order being possessed of copper utensils. They occasionally
purchase a few slaves from the Murzouk caravan. The remainder of
their wants is supplied from Kahira or Alexandria, whither their
dates are transported, both in a dry state, and beaten into a mass,
which when good in some degree resembles a sweet meat. They eat no
large quantity of animal food; and bread of the kind known to us
is uncommon. Flat cakes, without leaven, kneaded, and then half
baked, form part of their nourishment. The remainder consists of
thin sheets of paste, fried in the oil of the palm tree, rice, milk,
dates, &c. They drink in great quantities the liquor extracted from
the date tree, which they term _date-tree water_, though it have
often, in the state they drink it, the power of inebriating. Their
domestic animals are, the hairy sheep and goat of Egypt, the ass,
and a very small number of oxen and camels. The women are veiled,
as in Egypt. After the rains the ground in the neighbourhood of Siwa
is covered with salt for many weeks.
Having left our temporary residence, we proceeded, myself and my
interpreter on horseback, our original conductor on foot, and the
two men we had hired each on an ass: but we had not gone far, before
one of the latter told us that it would be necessary to return, as
the people of the town were in pursuit of us, and would not permit
us to go and disinter the treasures of Araschié.
We nevertheless continued our journey for two days, without any
particular molestation; in constant alarm indeed, from the pretended
vicinity of hostile tribes, but without actually seeing any. At the
end of that time we arrived at the place described to us. It is not
far from the plain of Gegabib[6]. I found it an island, in the middle
of a small lake of salt water, which contained misshapen rocks in
abundance, but nothing that I could positively decide to be ruins;
nor indeed was it very likely that any such should be found there,
the spot being entirely destitute of trees and fresh water. Yet
I had the curiosity to approach nearer to these imaginary ruins;
and accordingly forced my horse into the lake. He, from fatigue
and weakness, or original inability to swim, soon found himself
entangled, and could not keep his head above water. I fell with him,
and was unable immediately to detach myself: at length, when I found
myself again on dry ground, the circumstances I was under prevented
me from making further observation on this island and lake.
After having visited this place, we continued our journey south,
according to the agreement made with our guides, but found the
pursuit equally fruitless. After having, at the end of the third day,
arrived in lat. 28. 40. or nearly so, we became much distressed for
water. We remained a whole night in suspense concerning our destiny,
when at length a supply of this necessary refreshment was found. Not
having, however, discovered any thing that bore the least resemblance
to the object of our search, we were obliged to think of returning,
as well from the importunity of the Arabs, as from our own fatigue
and unpleasant sensations. We did so, and having fallen into the
strait road from Siwa to Alexandria, we arrived at the latter place,
without any new occurrence, on Monday, 2d April 1792.