"HOME THOUGHTS FROM ABROAD."
"One rule his life was fashioned to fulfil:
That he who tends Truth's shrine, and does the hest
Of Science, with a humble, faithful will,
The God of Truth and Knowledge serveth best."
"Wednesday, October 13th, 1813.--This morning formed an epoch in my
life."
Thus commences the first entry in that journal, in which, all the while
that he was away, Faraday noted down particulars of what he saw and
thought. And, indeed, the young traveller's remark is by no means an
exaggeration, as we recognise when we consider that he had never been
out of sight of the metropolis, that he was accompanying one of the
leading chemists, and that he and Davy, Englishmen both, were allowed
free passports through France, although this and that country were at
the time at war with one another. The fact that Davy was a scientist
overshadowed the fact that he was an Englishman in the eyes of the
French authorities; as the former, he was permitted to travel anywhere,
and to use libraries, museums, etc., at any time; as the latter,
he would have been instantly taken prisoner. This was an early and
pleasing recognition of the universality of science, of its more than
political or national interest, nay, of its international importance.
So minute are the descriptions of things seen, so clear and simple
is the language employed, that Faraday's journal is most delightful
reading; while the letters written home and to his friends are no less
pleasing; perhaps, indeed, they are more so as they are so eminently
characteristic of the man. They are remarkable for the unaffected
spirit of affection which breathes through them, and show us, as indeed
was shown in all ways throughout his life, the keen sensitiveness of
his feelings and the genuine earnestness with which he was at all times
seeking for self-improvement.
On reaching Plymouth, Faraday gives expression in his diary to the
wonder which moved him at seeing the country for the first time. The
journey, of course, had to be done by road, as it was long before the
time of railways; but coach or carriage riding, during fine autumn
weather, through some of the most delightful scenery of rural England,
must at any time be preferable to, though less expeditious than,
railway travelling; and that Michael felt the full benefit of it is
shown by the following passage from the journal:--
"_Friday, October 15th._--Reached Plymouth this afternoon. I was more
taken by the scenery to-day than by anything else I have ever seen. It
came upon me unexpectedly, and caused a kind of revolution in my ideas
respecting the nature of the earth's surface. That such a revolution
was necessary is, I confess, not much to my credit; and yet I can
assign to myself a very satisfactory reason, in the habit of ideas
induced by an acquaintance with no other green surface than that within
three miles of London. Devonshire, however, presented scenery very
different to this; the mountainous nature of the country continually
put forward new forms and objects, and the landscape changed before
the eye more rapidly than the organ could observe it. This day
gave me some idea of the pleasures of travelling, and has raised my
expectations of future enjoyment to a very high point."
If the surface of the earth gave our amateur traveller cause for
wonder, what must have been his feelings when he first went down to
the sea-shore? or when, on the night of October 17th, he was on board
in mid-channel, with the "immense waves," as he graphically puts it,
"striding one after another at a considerable distance?" or when,
again, to use his own words, the vessel "sank down into the valleys
between the great waves, and we had nothing in view but the wall of
waters around us." He carefully observed, on this occasion, remaining
on deck all night for that purpose, the phosphorescence of the sea.
The next day they reached the harbour of Morlaix, on the French coast,
where, after much examination of luggage, and searching in all possible
and impossible places for contraband goods by the French Customs'
officers, they took up their lodging for a couple of nights. And on
the 22nd, the carriage having been successfully put together (to
ensure comfortable accommodation Sir Humphry had brought his own with
him), the party commenced their tour, reaching Paris, where a stay of
three months' length was made, on the 29th. Faraday's observant nature
is made evident to us in every page of his journal, and the light,
humorous style in which much of it--that part which admits of such
treatment--is written, gives evidence of the abiding cheerfulness of
his disposition.
On the road to Paris there was a temporary stoppage, owing to the
breaking of one of the horses' traces. While the accident was being
repaired by the postillion, Faraday found, to his great delight, a
glow-worm, the first that he had seen, and which gave him much food for
reflection. So great an impression did the first sight of the luminous
little grub make on him, that, writing to his mother six months
afterwards, and enumerating some of the more important things he had
seen in his travels, he says, "I have seen a GLOW-WORM!"
In Paris Davy stayed some three months, and Faraday records the great
disadvantage under which he laboured through not knowing the French
language. Despite this, however, he attended lectures with Davy, and
accompanied him on visits to the laboratories of the various French
chemists of the day, among others to that of Chevreul, who was even
then (he was three years older than Faraday) well known as one of the
rising chemists of the day.[5] It was well for Davy, and his assistant
too, perhaps, that the Paris authorities did not read the entries
which the young Englishman "with a round chin, a brown beard, a large
mouth, and a great nose,"[6] made in his journal, for he records as
follows a visit which he paid to the Galerie Napoléon:--"It is," he
wrote, "both the glory and the disgrace of France. As being itself, and
as containing specimens of those things which proclaim the power of
man, and which point out the high degree of refinement to which he has
risen, it is unsurpassed, unequalled, and must call forth the highest
and most unqualified admiration; but when memory brings to mind the
manner in which the works came here, and views them only as the gains
of violence and rapine, she blushes for the people that even now glory
in an act that made them a nation of thieves."[7]
Although he thus discoursed in his journal about what he saw and
thought, he did not by any means neglect his favourite science, and his
journal during the stay in Paris contains frequent reference to the
experiments which Sir Humphry was carrying on with a new substance
which had been discovered a short while before by a French chemist--M.
Courtois. This substance, now known as iodine, was the source of much
interesting research. Not only about the time of its discovery, but
during the whole of the century it has afforded scope to chemists for
much speculation and useful experiment.
The race-prejudice, which early in the present century affected English
opinion of all things French, is to be traced even in Faraday, who,
with all his fairness and open-mindedness, seems always congratulating
himself on not belonging to the people among whom he finds himself.
This insular spirit finds expression in such passages as the following,
which he wrote after staying indoors all day with nothing better to
do than to note the difference between the rooms in Paris and those
he was accustomed to in England. He sums his views up thus:--"French
apartments are magnificent, English apartments are comfortable; French
apartments are highly ornamented, English apartments are clean; French
apartments are to be seen, English apartments enjoyed; and the style of
each kind best suits the people of the respective countries."
[Illustration: TORPEDO FISH.]
From Paris the small party--which consisted of Sir Humphry and Lady
Davy and Faraday, whose nominal position was that of "assistant in
chemistry and experiments"--went south to Montpelier, near the coast
of the Mediterranean and some seventy-five miles from Marseilles.
After about six weeks' stay they again started on their travels; and
after a cold and adventurous journey across the Alps, reached Turin
on February 22nd, at the close of the Carnival. From Turin they went
to Genoa--where Faraday was much interested in several water-spouts
which he saw in the bay--and then on to Florence. Various experiments
were made by Davy at each place, on iodine, on the electricity of the
torpedo fish, etc.; while at each place Faraday found some opportunity
of helping to satisfy his craving for improvement. Of the stay at
Florence the journal gives but little account other than of Davy's
experiment to find out of what a diamond is composed, and of the
various attempts which were made with the assistance of the "Duke's
burning glass" to burn diamond. After noting these experiments, Faraday
concludes: "As yet it appears that the diamond is pure carbon."
From Rome, which was the next halting-place on their travels, Michael
wrote home to his mother a long letter, every line of which breathes
a spirit of true affection. "I trust that you are well in health and
spirits, and that all things have gone right since I left you.... Mr.
Riebau and fifty other friends would be inquired after, could I but
have an answer. You must consider this letter as a kind of general one,
addressed to that knot of friends who are twined round my heart; and I
trust that you will let them all know that, though distant, I do not
forget them, and that it is not from want of regard that I do not write
to each singly, but from want of convenience and propriety; indeed, it
appears to me that there is more danger of my being forgot than of my
forgetting. The first and last thing in my mind is England, home, and
friends. It is the point to which my thoughts still ultimately tend,
and the goal to which, looking over intermediate things, my eyes are
still directed. But, on the contrary, in London you are all together,
your circle being little or nothing diminished by my absence; the
small void which was formed on my departure would soon be worn out,
and, pleased and happy with one another, you will seldom think of
me. Such are sometimes my thoughts, but such do not rest with me; an
innate feeling tells me that I shall not be forgot, and that I still
possess the hearts and love of my mother, my brother, my sisters, and
my friends.... Whenever a vacant hour occurs I employ it by thinking on
those at home. In short, when sick, when cold, when tired, the thoughts
of those at home are a warm and refreshing balm to my heart. Let those
who think such thoughts useless, vain, and paltry, think so still;
I envy them not their more refined and more estranged feelings: let
them look about the world, unencumbered by such ties and heartstrings,
and let them laugh at those who, guided more by nature, cherish such
feelings. For me, I still will cherish them, in opposition to the
dictates of modern refinement, as the first and greatest sweetness in
the life of man."
It is in his letters such as this that we get to understand Faraday,
and to appreciate how it was that his friends, members of his
family, nay, even persons who casually met him, were always struck
by the simplicity and lovableness of the man. Altogether, Michael
got much pleasure, and a great deal of experience, both of life
and of science, during his Continental tour, although it was not a
source of unmixed delight. His engagement was to accompany Davy in
the capacity of secretarial and scientific assistant, but some work
certainly not included under that head fell to him owing to Sir
Humphry's valet not accompanying the party at the last moment. Had
he been with Davy alone this would have been of little matter, for
Davy was a kind and considerate man, and would have dispensed with a
servant's attendance, and have recognised in Faraday the scientific
assistant only; but--unfortunately for Michael--Lady Davy, as has been
mentioned, accompanied her husband, and she was not so considerate;
and, in consequence, Faraday was treated at times almost as a servant.
This, occasionally, was very trying to him; but Michael was too much
of a philosopher to give in because circumstances were not as he
could wish, and he wrote to his friend Abbott, that though he had to
sacrifice much, "the glorious opportunity he enjoyed of improving in
the knowledge of chemistry and the sciences continually determined
him to finish the voyage with Sir Humphry Davy." A decision of this
nature is characteristic of Faraday at all times: he rarely started any
work without having carefully considered it; but, having started it,
he was not one to take his hand from the plough before the furrow was
completed.
This quality is well illustrated in a story which is told of Faraday
when he had become a well-known chemist. He was arranging some
apparatus with a scientific instrument maker, when a small piece of
glass fell to the ground; Faraday made several unsuccessful efforts to
pick it up, when his companion said that it was not worth troubling
over. "Perhaps not," said Faraday; "but I do not like to fail in
accomplishing anything that I have attempted."
The months of May and June were spent by the small party mostly in
Italy--first in Rome, then Naples, and afterwards travelling from place
to place. At Naples a stay of some days was made, and Faraday's journal
gives us an interesting account of two visits to Mount Vesuvius. On
the second day the party, largely increased by other visitors, had a
picnic on the Mount. "Cloths were laid on the smoking lava, and bread,
chickens, turkey, cheese, wine and water, and eggs roasted on the
mountain, brought forth, and a species of dinner taken at this place.
Torches were now lighted, and the whole had a singular appearance;
and the surrounding lazzaroni assisted not a little in adding to the
picturesque effect of the scene. After having eaten and drunk, Old
England was toasted, and 'God save the king!' and 'Rule, Britannia'
sung; and two very entertaining Russian songs by a gentleman, a native
of that country, the music of which was peculiar and very touching."
[Illustration: NAPLES AND MOUNT VESUVIUS.]
From Naples the journey is continued up north through all the
magnificent scenery of Italy; the journal giving us occasionally
delightful word-pictures of the landscape, and recording the young
traveller's observations on various natural phenomena. Now, as we
have seen, glowworms attract his attention, then waterspouts, and the
magnificent spectacle presented by Vesuvius; and again his attention is
occupied with the beautiful fire-flies that appeared "in innumerable
quantities; at a distance they covered the side of the mountain, and
near us they passed over the fields, hovered on the edge or crossed the
road, often attaching themselves to the harness, and emitting their
bright and harmless flashes of light in a rapid and beautiful manner."
In July our party found themselves settled in Geneva, where some
three months were passed very enjoyably in congenial society. Davy
was the guest of the elder De la Rive, with whom he experimented in
chemistry, and with whom, they both being ardent sportsmen, he went out
fishing and shooting. "On these occasions," says Professor Tyndall,
"Faraday charged Davy's gun, while De la Rive charged his own. Once
the Genevese philosopher found himself by the side of Faraday, and
in his frank and genial way entered into conversation with the young
man. It was evident that a person possessing such a charm of manner
and such high intelligence could be no mere servant. On inquiry De la
Rive was somewhat shocked to find that the _soi-disant domestique_ was
really _preparateur_ in the laboratory of the Royal Institution; and he
immediately proposed that Faraday thenceforth should join the masters
instead of the servants at their meals. To this Davy, probably out of
weak deference to his wife, objected; but an arrangement was come to
that Faraday thenceforward should have his food in his own room."
For reasons such as these we can well understand that Faraday's life
during his Continental journeying was not altogether as pleasant
as he had anticipated it would be. In his letters his reserve on
this matter is marvellous, for it is only twice, and in writing to
his intimate friend, Abbott, that he refers at all to his, at times,
uncomfortable situation, and then it is to give point to what he has
been saying in reply to his friend's complaint as to the sordid and
unintellectual surroundings amid which he is compelled to live. In his
journals also Faraday's reticence with regard to those with whom he
travelled is noticeable; he wrote impressions of what he saw, and of
what he thought that was worth record, and this was done merely for his
own future use and pleasure--he would never wish to recall any petty
humiliations which circumstances compelled him to suffer, and they were
very properly allowed to pass unrecorded. Indeed, in the note quoted
above, particulars of which were given Professor Tyndall by M. De la
Rive, we learn more of the discomforts of his post than Faraday himself
ever allowed to escape. It is indeed a great pity for his own good
fame that Davy should have allowed a "weak deference to his wife" to
influence him in such a matter, as it was a great pity when a few years
later he allowed a petty spirit of jealousy to make him oppose the
election of Faraday as a Fellow of the Royal Society.
From Geneva many letters were written home to his mother and friends.
This is characteristic: "Here, dear mother, all goes well. I am in
perfect health, and almost contented, except with my ignorance, which
becomes more visible to me every day, though I endeavour as much as
possible to remedy it." It is strange how different we find the Faraday
of the letters and the Faraday of the journal. In the first case the
cheerful kindliness, the affectionate, sympathetic side of the man's
nature at once strikes us; while in the journal the clear and simple
description, uncoloured by personal feeling or prejudice, is no less
remarkable.
The three months' stay at Geneva at an end, the small party, bidding
farewell to their hospitable and kindly host, De la Rive, turned south
again. In De la Rive, Michael, by his intelligence, his scientific
enthusiasm, and his unassuming cheerful disposition had won a life-long
friend. The route south may well be described briefly in Michael's
own words, from a letter to his mother written early in November at
Rome: "On leaving Geneva we entered Switzerland, and traversed that
mountainous and extraordinary country with health and fine weather,
and were much diverted with the curious dresses and customs of the
country.... From Switzerland we passed through the States of Baden,
on the Lake of Constance (they are very small), across an arm of the
kingdom of Wurtemburg, and into Bavaria. In this route we had seen,
though slightly, Lausanne, Vevey, Zurich, Schaffhausen and the falls of
the Rhine, in Switzerland, and Munich, and many other towns in Germany.
On leaving Munich we proceeded to and across the Tyrol, and got to
Padua, and from Padua to Venice. You will remember very well, I have
no doubt, the picture which hung in the parlour over the fireplace,
and which represented the Rialto and the Great Canal of this town. The
first I have had the pleasure of crossing several times, and the second
I have partly traversed in a Venetian gondola.... After seeing Venice
for three days we left it, and came towards Italy, passing Bologna and
Florence."
Before reaching Florence the two philosophers went out of their way to
inquire into a phenomenon at Pietra Mala which was much talked about.
From certain tracts of ground in the neighbourhood sheets of flame
of various sizes were said to burst out; the fire was said to burn
anything combustible, although the ground where the flames were was
not even heated; locally, it was said to be the remains of an ancient
volcano. "Though it was raining hard, yet that would not deter Sir
Humphry from visiting those places; but, at the same time, it made us
wish to be as quick as possible. Sir Humphry therefore went to the
first place, and I went to the _Acqua bollenti_, conducted by a man of
the village, who carried some fire, some straw, and some water. I found
the place in a cultivated field, not far from a mountain, apparently of
limestone. It was simply a puddle perhaps formed by the present showers
of rain. Much gas rose from the earth, and passed through the water,
which made it appear boiling, and had given rise to its name; but the
water and the ground were quite cold. I made another puddle with the
water we brought, near the one I found there, and I saw that the gas
rose up through it also; and it appeared to be continually passing
off from a surface of more than eighteen inches in diameter. The soil
appeared deep, and close to the spot supported vegetation readily. The
man inflamed some straw, and then laid it on the ground; immediately
the gas inflamed, and the flame spread to some distance from the straw
over the surface of the earth, waving about like the flame of weak
spirits of wine; this flame burnt some moments. On putting a light to
the bubbles which rose through the water they inflamed, and sometimes
a flame ran quickly from them over the whole surface of the water. I
filled a bottle with the gas, but I could not distinguish any smell in
it. In pouring water into the bottle, and lighting the jet of gas that
came out, a large clear flame was obtained. The whole of this flame was
a very pale blue, like spirits of wine. It inflamed paper and matches
readily, as might be expected; and when I held a dry bottle or knife
over it, they appeared to become dim by condensing water: but this was
uncertain, as the weather was so rainy. The water had no taste, and
appeared pure rain water. I brought some of it and the gas away, and
returned to the village." In the "almost deserted laboratory of the
Florence Academy" experiments with the Pietra Mala gas convinced Davy
that it was "light hydrocarburet, pure."
The second stay in Rome extended over nearly four months, during which
time the grand Carnival took place. Faraday had at this part of his
tour a great deal of his time to himself, and earnestly devoted himself
to continuing the study of the French and Italian languages, on which
indeed he had been working all the while he had been away from home.
But he also continued his observations on men and manners, for during
the Carnival week he twice attended masked balls in a domino, besides
being present at the horse-races on the Corso, and at other of the
events of the Carnival. He was, however, anxious to be on his way home
to England, and his letters occasionally show how sad he felt at not
knowing how soon the return would be.
It was, however, to be earlier than he anticipated. On January 25th,
1815, he wrote to Abbott: "Now for news! We shall part in a few weeks
(pray write quickly) for Naples, and from thence proceed immediately
to Sicily. Afterwards our road is doubtful; but this much I know, that
application is made for passports to travel in the Turkish Empire, and
to reside in Constantinople; that it is Sir Humphry's intention to be
among the Greek islands in March, and at Athens early in the spring....
Adieu, dear friend. With you I have no ceremony. The warmest wishes
that friendship can dictate are formed for you by M. Faraday." Thus had
he written towards the end of January--within three months he was to be
shaking hands with his friend at home!
While on the road to Naples, Faraday heard of the escape of Napoleon
from Elba on March 7th, and records it thus briefly in his journal:
"Tuesday, March 7th.--I heard for news that Bonaparte was again at
liberty. Being no politician, I did not trouble myself about it, though
I suppose it will have a strong influence on the affairs of Europe." It
is strange how quietly Davy and his "assistant" passed through Europe
at a time when war was convulsing nearly the whole of it; quietly and
apparently unconcernedly they went their way, seeing who and what was
to be seen at the various stopping-places, prosecuting their researches
in different branches of chemistry, and adding in many ways to their
stores of knowledge, seemingly unaffected by
"The time that tried men's souls."
At Naples Faraday again ascended Vesuvius, and on this occasion had the
grand experience of seeing it in active eruption. He writes a full and
graphic account in the journal, from which one passage, descriptive of
the eruption itself, may well be quoted. This time Faraday had ascended
with a guide only, Sir Humphry having stayed part way up the mountain
to see Monte Somma. "I saw a large shower of red-hot stones in the
air," writes Faraday, "and felt the strong workings of the mountain;
but my care was now to get to the crater, and that was soon done. Here
the scene surpassed everything. Before me was the crater, like a deep
gulf, appearing bottomless from the smoke that rose from below. On the
right hand this smoke ascended in enormous wreaths, rolling above us
into all forms; on the left hand the crater was clear, except where
the fire burst out from the side with violence, its product rising and
increasing the volume of volatile matter already raised in the air.
The ground was in continual motion, and the explosions were continual,
but at times more powerful shocks and noises occurred; then might be
seen rising high in the air numbers of red-hot stones and pieces of
lava, which at times came so near as to threaten us with a blow. The
appearance of the lava was at once sufficient to satisfy one of its
pasty form. It rose in the air in lumps of various size, from 1/2
lb. to 25 lb. or more. The form was irregular, but generally long,
like splashes of thick mud; a piece would often split into two or
more pieces in the air. They were red-hot, and, when they fell down,
continued glowing for five, ten, or fifteen minutes.... I was there
during one explosion of very great force, when the ground shook as with
a strong earthquake, and the shower of lava and of stones ascended
to a very great height, and at this moment the smoke increased much
in quantity. The guide now said this place was not safe, from its
exposed situation to the melted lava and to the smoke, and because it
oftentimes happens that a portion of the edge of the crater is shaken
down into the gulf below. We therefore retreated a little, and then sat
down, listened, and looked."
We have seen from the letter to Abbott at the end of January that
a somewhat lengthened tour had been planned out. On March the 21st
Faraday's journal says, "We left Naples at five o'clock." From that
time the return was rapid. At Rome there was some delay owing to the
lack of post-horses; the French troops under Murat were advancing, and
everybody was leaving the city; the Pope had fled, and the cardinals
were flying. After a delay of a couple of days carriage-horses were
hired at a great expense, and the travellers proceeded on their
homeward flight. At Mantua delay again occurred, as the passports had
to be "signed, re-signed, and countersigned." "At last," says Faraday,
"we saw the outside of the town, having, much against our will,
remained two hours and a-half in it."
Faraday's last letter home is written from Brussels on April 16th; it
is to his mother, and is well worth reading: "My very dear Mother,--It
is with no small pleasure I write you my last letter from a foreign
country, and I hope it will be with as much pleasure you will hear I
am within three days of England. Nay more, before you read this letter
I hope to tread on British ground.... I am not acquainted with the
reason of our sudden return; it is, however, sufficient for me that
it has taken place. We left Naples very hastily, perhaps because of
the motions of the Neapolitan troops, and perhaps for private reasons.
We came rapidly to Rome, we as rapidly left it. We ran up Italy, we
crossed the Tyrol, we stepped over Germany, we entered Holland, and
we are now at Brussels, and talk of leaving it to-morrow for Ostend;
at Ostend we embark, and at Deal we land on a spot of earth which I
will never leave again. You may be sure we shall not creep from Deal
to London, and I am sure I shall not creep to 18, Weymouth Street; and
then--but it is of no use. I have a thousand times endeavoured to fancy
a meeting with you and my relations and friends, and I am sure I have
as often failed: the reality must be a pleasure not to be imagined or
described.... You may be sure that my first moment will be in your
company. If you have opportunities, tell some of my dearest friends,
but do not tell everybody--that is, do not trouble yourself to do
it.... My thoughts wander from one to another, my pen runs on by fits
and starts; I do not know what to say, and yet cannot put an end to
my letter. I would fain be talking to you, but must cease. Adieu till
I see you, dearest mother; and believe me ever your affectionate and
dutiful son,
"M. FARADAY."
"'Tis the shortest and (to me) the sweetest letter I ever wrote you."
Thus ended Faraday's wanderings--
"But who may tell
What forms he brought away,
To stand reveal'd at mem'ry's spell,
And glad some distant day!"
He returned home better equipped for continuing the work of chemical
research, for which he had so intense a liking, with his stores of
knowledge vastly increased, and his energy and application not one whit
abated. How he again took up the thread of his work must be told in
another chapter.
[Illustration]
FOOTNOTES:
[5] Chevreul, many readers will remember, lived to celebrate his
hundredth birthday in 1886, and all his life continued experiments in
his fascinating science. He died on the 10th of April, 1889.
[6] So was Faraday described in the passport issued to him at Paris.
[7] The works of art which Faraday refers to are the Laocoön, the Venus
de Medici, the Dying Gladiator, and other sculpture brought from Rome
to Paris by Napoleon after one of his Italian campaigns. Faraday must
have been gratified at their return to Rome the year after his words
were written.
[Illustration]