CHAPTER XLIII.

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.—I. GEOLOGY.

GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY—THE EARTH’S CRUST—ORIGIN OF THE EARTH—DENUDATION

AND EXCAVATION BY WATER—ROCKS, GRAVEL, AND SAND—CLASSES OF ROCKS.

[Illustration: Fig. 636.—Cliffs worn by the sea.]

When we were at school, and learnt the various countries of Europe, we

had maps showing us the several divisions of one realm from another;

the mountains, lakes, and other prominent features of the continent

were learned and repeated, but we, maybe, seldom, perhaps never,

bestowed a thought upon the formations of the mountains, and the manner

in which rivers ran down into and through lakes to the ocean. There

were the mountains, there were the lakes and rivers, and capes, and

headlands, and there they are still, to all intents and purposes, the

same to see, to climb up, to sail down, as the case may be. But the map

of Europe has undergone a visible change. Territory has changed hands.

Germany has gripped France, England has got Cyprus, Turkey has been

dismembered, and Austria is annexing territory. This study is called

Geography,—POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY,—for it marks the political boundaries.

The knowledge of the formation of hills, headlands, lakes, rivers,

seas, their causes, constitution, and effects, how they rose, how

they exist and wax or wane during the course of centuries is PHYSICAL

GEOGRAPHY, which we propose to consider.

This tree of knowledge includes some very important branches, almost

parent stems. As a magnificent oak spreads forth its brawny arms, with

smaller branches and twigs, each of these great branches being as large

as an ordinary tree, so Physical Geography includes other arms such

as Geology, Meteorology, Botany, and Physiology—even Astronomy in its

comprehensive embrace. We find it is a difficult task to separate these

kindred sciences from the great tree. We may have therefore to refer to

earth, air, and water, and their various forms in hills and mountains,

wind, vapour, rain, glaciers, and sea. We must learn how this earth has

been gradually cooled, and what the various stages of its growth have

done. We must consider plant and animal life upon our planet, and how

the atmosphere affects them. All this is Physical Geography, and its

satellite sciences of Geology, Meteorology, “Climatology,” Botany, and

Physiology.

[Illustration: Fig. 637.—Disintegrated granite.]

“Everything must have a beginning,” and the earth must have had a

beginning, although the actual manner of the physical creation of the

planet is a disputed fact. We are not about to discuss the religious

side of the question, although we should undoubtedly find that Biblical

and Geologic teaching run side by side towards the same end, and the

testimony of the earth and sky bears witness to the Divine hand that

created the universe, which we can trace back to the dim and distant

ages when “the earth was without form and void, and darkness was upon

the face of the deep.”

With this brief preface, let us consider some of these aspects, and

pick up interesting facts from the ground.

GEOLOGY.

In the chemical and mineral sections of this volume we have heard

something concerning the formation of the globe and its composition,

its clays, rocks, etc. With these internal arrangements Chemistry and

Mineralogy have dealt. Geology tells us about the external surface

of the earth, its stones and rocks, and how they were formed, and

generally something about the conformation of the crust of the earth,

and its history.

When we speak of “crust” of the earth, we do not simply mean the

exterior layer of gravel, clay, or stone. The crust is a thick one,

and our crust extends just so far as we can cut into it. The surface

of the sea can scarcely be termed a crust, but we must penetrate that

ever-moving liquid boundary, and touch upon (and examine) what lies

down below far beyond the “full fathom five” of the lead line. In this

study we must not forget our Book of Nature, which is always open and

inviting us to read. We shall see how things are produced, and how

our physical surroundings will continue to be produced until the age

of miracles returns, and Providence sees fit to interfere with the

otherwise immutable laws which He in His wisdom has laid down for the

universe.

It will be of no use to go back into space and imagine the world a

red-hot fragment of matter, whirling through the heaven around the sun

which, as a larger aggregation of burning atoms, kept it, as it now

keeps it, in its place. The earth was a globe of liquid fire, or in

gaseous state, and the atoms gradually cooled on the surface; the fire

is still under our feet. The outer part would by degrees lose all its

heat, while the interior remained hot; the planet must then have been

surrounded by a steamy atmosphere, and enveloped in vapours condensed

from the air through which no light of the sun could by any appreciable

degree penetrate.

We can give an example of this, and it will be seen how the surface

of the earth gradually became formed from the vaporous condition. If

any one will take the pains to evaporate any saline solution in a

capsule till it is about to crystallise, and observe attentively the

pellicle of salt as it forms on the surface; first a partial film will

show itself in a few places, floating about and joining with others,

then when nearly the whole surface is coated, it will break up in some

places and sink into the liquid beneath, another pellicle will form and

join with the remains of the first, and as this thickens it will push

up ridges and inequalities of the surface from openings and fissures

in which little jets of steam and fluid will escape; these little

ridges are chains of mountains, the little jets of steam those volcanic

eruptions which were at that period so frequent, the surface of the

capsule is the surface of the earth, and the five minutes which the

observer has contemplated it, a million years.

The next effect of the cooling of the earth would be the gradual

condensation of the vapour of water with which it was surrounded; this

falling upon the earth formed seas and oceans, leaving only the higher

portions exposed above its level. The clearing up of the dense dark

clouds for the first time let in upon the earth’s surface the glorious

and vivifying rays of the sun, and this great effect possibly accords

with the earliest record in the Bible of the acts of creation: “And God

said, let there be light, and there was light.”

This clearing up of the vapours and the subsequent rain no doubt gave

rise to terribly grand electrical phenomena—thunderings and lightnings.

By degrees the waters got their own way, and then many changes took

place, land and water fighting, as it were, for the mastery, as they

are fighting to this day.

But perhaps some reader may not think that the land and water of our

earth are thus engaged. A very few minutes’ reflection will suffice

to confirm our assertion. Look at the lofty crags in the Alps, for

instance; what has shattered those peaks, and sent the masses toppling

down in stone avalanches to the lower slopes, and then into the

valleys?—Water. Water has been in the crevices, and was frozen there;

in freezing it expanded and loosened the crags, which, forced asunder,

gave an opening to more snow and ice, and so this powerful leverage,

aided by the wind and storm, is disintegrating our mountains.

[Illustration: Fig. 638.—Breakers on the coast of Cornwall.]

It is the same by the seashore; the cliffs are wearing away, and the

sea approaches; at other places the sea recedes from the land, as

coral formation and embryo chalk cliffs are rising under the surface

of the ocean. Lakes dry up, and the meadow or farm arises on the site,

while other old spots are submerged. No rest, no change of idea, but

ever changing in physical appearance, Nature goes on her wondrous way,

working now as steadily, as harmoniously, and as surely as she did

before time was, and as she will continue to do when time shall be no

more!

In our investigations into Geology we cannot enter into many technical

details. Our object in these pages is recreation; but we shall, even

under these circumstances, find plenty to interest, and sufficient

to lead any one who wishes to pursue the study for himself. We will

endeavour so to put the features of the stones and rocks before him

that they will be recognized by the passer by. We will try to show how

the earth has been built up, and how the great and terrible changes

through which our little globe has passed have been effected. In our

own islands, Great Britain and Ireland, we shall find traces of all

the materials likely to be useful to us in our quest, As has been well

said, “Geology is the Physical Geography of the past.”

CONSTITUTION OF THE EARTH.

[Illustration: Fig. 639.—Shells in chalk.]

The descent from rocks to stones, from stones to gravel, from gravel

to sand, is evident to everyone, so we need not insist upon the fact

that sand is powdered rock, and that an aggregation of sand particles

makes stones. We have heard in the _Mineralogy_ section that there are

certain “earths”—silica, alumina, lime, etc. Of these “earths,” the two

former constitute the greater portion of the ROCKS. Lime, also, is very

evident, and in limestones fossils or organic remains are abundant. Now

we must entirely put away from our minds the old idea that the earth

we live on was created at once, or as it appeared to the first human

beings. Our planet was prepared for man by degrees during millions

of years. We conclude that the earth was originally composed of

certain elements, and we find the same elements in the sun. Therefore,

supposing (as is supposed) that the earth came from the sun, we have

all the material of the globe in a fused state. As the earth cooled,

rocks were formed by pressure, and then water came, and now we can read

“books in the running brooks, and sermons in stones” at our leisure.

[Illustration: Fig. 640.—The streamlet.]

Perhaps as someone reads this he may be walking by the seashore kicking

the pebbles or seated upon the sands, the grains of which are so very

tiny. He will probably find sand, shingle, and gravel within reach, and

perhaps the curious-looking “pudding stone.” Now what can we learn from

these stones or sand grains or that curious bit of _conglomerate_?

Perhaps the reader may be at Ramsgate or Margate or another place where

the “white cliffs of Albion” glisten in the sun. Take up a piece of

chalk and examine it. It is soft and soils your hands, and you will

throw it away, perhaps—but don’t. Take it home and put it under the

microscope or a good magnifying glass. What do you see?

[Illustration: Fig. 641.—Cliffs showing strata.]

You will find the _remains of animals_—that is, shells and tiny bits

of coral packed close together. Under the microscope they will become

more separated, and the grains will be distinct fragments of shells,

etc. If this little bit of chalk be composed of marine animals’ shells,

of course the whole cliff is composed of the same kind of material.

But how did the shells get into the chalk? Shells are chalk—carbonate

of lime; lime was deposited at the bottom of the sea, and the infinite

millions of minute animals formed themselves shells, and left them to

be piled up by Nature’s forces into cliffs during countless ages.

[Illustration: Fig. 642.—Limestone with encrinites.]

Yes, but how did the lime get into the water to make the shells? We

will endeavour to explain. Rain, when falling, takes some carbonic

acid from the air, which we know contains it. This acts upon the lime

in the rocks (lime is oxide of calcium, and calcium is an element

in the earth), so we get a bi-carbonate of lime (soluble in water),

which rises from the rocks in springs. These springs and their streams

deposit lime, as we can see in caverns where we find stalactites and

stalagmites. The lime is transmitted to the ocean, and absorbed by the

crinoideans and molluscs which produced shells. These shells hardened

and crystallized became limestone, and whole mountains are formed of

this “organic” rock, which is used for so many purposes.

We have spoken of ORGANIC ROCKS, but there are others, and we ought,

perhaps, to have spoken of that kind before the chalk put them aside.

Let us go back to our sandy shore again and look at the SEDIMENTARY

ROCKS, which are the very first formation. We have all seen sandstone,

and visitors to the South Devon Coast will remember the red cliffs near

Dawlish and Teignmouth. These are red sandstone—not the very “old red”

so pleasantly written of by Hugh Miller, but at any rate sandstone, and

composed of grains of sand. When we were at Dawlish last year a piece

of the sandstone had fallen on to the beach, and when the waves came up

that stone was no doubt gradually washed away into sand, and then fell

to the earth as _sediment_.

[Illustration: Fig. 643.—Chalk cliff.]

We said something a few pages back about the wear and tear which

is always going on: the mountain is worn away—a mass falls, it is

broken into smaller pieces; these are carried by a river; the mud is

deposited, and the finer particles are ground and rounded into gravel,

and finally sand. Beneath the current of the river, and at the bottom

of a lake or sea, these sediments (mud, etc.) accumulate one on the top

of the other in regular series called _strata_, and then the weight and

pressure acting with the soluble mineral deposits always washing down,

consolidate and bind the loose sand-grains into stone, which, in the

course of ages, hardens. The stones thus formed from sediments such as

gravel, mud, and sand, are termed _Sedimentary Rocks_; they have become

rocks by enormous and continuous pressure. Thus:—

Sands have become “Sandstones”;

Gravel has become “Pudding-stone” (Conglomerate);

Mud and clay have become “Shale”;

Calcareous deposits have become “Limestone”;

Vegetable deposits have become “Coal.”

So we have sandy, clayey, limy, flinty, and corally rocks under long

names respectively—Arenarious, Argillaceous, Calcareous, Silicious; and

we may add Bitumenous and Ferruginous—Irony Rocks—to the list.

Speaking of sediments, it is curious to note the different colours of

the Arve and the Rhone which meet near Geneva. The white sedimentary

Arve can be traced for a long distance beside, not mixing with, the

blue Rhone. The same effect can be traced where the latter river

enters the Lake of Geneva. So the land is being perpetually carried

away and deposited; and where water gains on land there is somewhere

else always a corresponding elevation to compensate it. Thus places

disappear, and the sea washes over the site, as on the Kentish Coast,

where Earl Godwin’s land was inundated, and new land is reclaimed or is

elevated from the sea to make up the balance.

“There rolls the deep, where grew the tree;

Oh, earth, what changes hast thou seen!

There, where the long street roars, has been

The stillness of the central sea.”

We have spoken of sedimentary and organic rocks. There is yet another

kind called igneous, or fiery rocks—those upraised by volcanic action.

Of the igneous rocks the crystalline have been evidently in a fused

condition. Granite is an example; lava or basalt is the usual term

for volcanic rock, and the basaltic caves of Staffa and the Giants’

Causeway bear testimony to the igneous or volcanic origin of the

surroundings. The pillars and fantastic rocks of Ireland and Scotland

which are so remarkable, are simply lava, which was erupted in a molten

state, now cooled and contracted into blocks of curious regularity of

form.

[Illustration: Fig. 644.—Trap rock (Staffa).]

Granite, already referred to, is another igneous rock, and must have

been forced upwards; for as an igneous rock granite has cooled beneath

the crust of the earth, throwing out arms, while melting, into other

formations, and frequently being found in mountains. There is another

kind of igneous rocks formed by the continuous accumulation of the

ashes, etc., vomited forth from volcanoes. Masses of mountain are thus

produced in the course of years, and the material thus formed is called

_tufa_, or tuff, when consolidated; and this (now solidified) is what

caused the destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

[Illustration: Fig. 645.—Eruption of granite.]

So we have two classes of IGNEOUS ROCKS, the Crystalline and

Fragmental (or the “Plutonic” and “Volcanic”), including basalts,

pitchstones, pumice, trachytes, granite, syenite, etc.; and, on the

other hand, tuff and “volcanic” breccia, with felstones, porphyries,

etc., which have been classed as intermediary.

Of these three classes of rocks, the sedimentary and the organic

compose the greater portion of the earth. We will now glance at the

crust of the earth and its various formations.

[Illustration: Volcanic eruption.]

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