CHAPTER VIII.

THE MALOJA--THE UPPER ENGADIN--PONTRESINA.

There’s place and means for every man alive.--SHAKESPEARE.

_August 10._--As I had undertaken to present myself to-day at

Pontresina in time for an early dinner, I engaged a _char_ at Casaccia

to take me as far as St. Moritz; and having walked to the top of the

Maloja, was there overtaken by it. The Maloja has an altitude of only

5,941 feet, which makes it the lowest of all the passes by which Italy

may be entered from Switzerland. Its ascent from Casaccia is over an

excellent road, with a rise of 1,150 feet, the latter part of which is

through well-grown pine woods. I reached the summit so much in advance

of my carriage as to have plenty of time for contemplating the backward

view of the upper reach of the Bregaglia over the head of the forest--a

view which was well worth the time.

The books tell us so much of the peculiarities, interest, and beauties

of the Upper Engadin, that every one who goes to see it expects much;

and I cannot think that there will be many of those who see it, who

will feel any disappointment. In respect of length, and of capability

for supporting human life, it may be equalled, or exceeded, by other

Swiss Valleys, as for instance by those of the Rhine, of the Rhone, and

of the Ticino, but there are other particulars of interest in which

it leaves them all far behind. The great point is that it combines

an elevation above the sea, which is elsewhere found to be but ill

suited for supporting human life with an amount of population which

would in any other valley be regarded as considerable; and that this

large amount of population is evidently maintained in circumstances

of comparative comfort. Beginning at the height just mentioned, it

descends at first so gradually that at St. Moritz, twelve miles down

the valley, the stream is only 150 feet below the summit of the

Pass; while the town of St. Moritz itself, which is 300 feet above

the stream, is actually 150 feet higher than the summit of the Pass.

And in the sixty miles of its course from the Maloja to Martinsbruck

it only loses 2,598 feet. The effect, too, of its actual elevation

upon vegetable, and therefore, upon human life, must be somewhat

aggravated by its direction, which being to the north-east exposes it

to cold winds, and renders it, moreover, somewhat unfavourable for the

reception of sunshine. And, then, its temperature is still further

lowered by the contiguity on either side of many snowy summits. These

conditions make in its upper parts all kinds of cultivation, except

that of grass, almost impossible. I saw this day at St. Moritz, and a

little above it, some few potato patches, but as in every instance the

haulm of these had been killed back by recent midsummer frosts, nothing

this year would be got from them but disappointment. Still I found

this part of the valley surprisingly populous, for it contains what

almost may be called a chain of little towns, in every one of which are

several good houses, and in not one of which is there the slightest

indication of any approach to pauperism. The absence, however, of this

form of wretchedness might almost have been expected, because where the

winter is eight or nine months long no family can exist which has not

some assured means of living. But this does not explain the well-to-do

condition you must infer is the lot of many, whose substantial and

neatly kept houses you see in every one of these little towns. Nature

you conclude at a glance is too niggard here to maintain so many

well-to-do families; you begin then to inquire how they are maintained?

Whence come their means? What are they living upon?

The answer to these questions is worth obtaining not only for the sake

of what it will tell us of the history of these people’s lives, but

also because it will remind us of a change that is now coming over

the whole world. These good people are living mainly upon capital,

either upon the interest of capital invested in good securities, or

upon the dividends of capital employed in such ventures as are open

to them. This is a fact of Grison life to which reference has already

been made, and to which we shall have to recur again. The reader is

already aware that my companion, the circumnavigator, who was now

seated by my side, was one of those who had failed in the Grison method

of wooing fortune; but the owners of almost all these good houses had

been successful wooers, for the good houses that belong to old Grison

families are comparatively few. You pass a house which appears to be

a goodly mansion. It covers a great deal of ground, is solidly built,

and of two, or possibly of three, stories. It may not, however, be

quite so large a dwelling-house as it looks, for the ground floor, or

part of it, is perhaps a stable for half-a-dozen, or more, cows, and a

couple of horses--these are seldom kept in outhouses. And this house

may also contain a haystack sufficiently large to maintain these cows

and horses for seven or eight months. Still after these deductions have

been made it is a goodly house, and much ornamented, for its owner is

proud of it; and the question arises, Whence came the money to purchase

the land on which it stands, then to build it, then to buy the land

which supplies the hay, and last, but not least, of all to support

the family in comfort according to Engadin ideas? The money required

for all this must have been a considerable sum, and the valley of the

Inn has hitherto offered no opportunities for making such sums. In

the particular case now before us it was all made by selling little

cups of coffee, and still smaller glasses of liqueurs, at Paris. And

before its owner could begin this small trade on his own account, he

had to serve some years as waiter in an hotel; for he took no capital

with him to Paris except the determination to get on. That was then

all his stock in trade, but it was of such a kind as to be enough for

the purpose. It was ultimately upon that foundation that the big house

was built. His pecuniary savings began in the hotel. By the time he

had learnt the ways and the language of the place, he had saved enough

to commence the sale on his own account of the little cups of coffee,

and smaller glasses of liqueurs. With what care must the cent or two

that was made by each cup, or glass, have been guarded! How rarely were

any of them spent in self-indulgence! It was self-indulgence enough to

look forward to the house in the Engadin, with the thought that its

owner would become one of the aristocracy of the valley; and to find

at the end of the week that the life-supporting prospect--the ambition

of a life, was so many francs nearer to realization. The next house

was built by one who had rolled up his francs by vending little cakes,

and small confectionery at Vienna. The process had been throughout the

same. You inquire about a third with a coat of arms over the door, and

gilt lattice at the window. Its owner climbed the ladder by becoming

a _bon-bon_ maker at Brussels. After half a life spent in unswerving

fidelity to their single purpose these keen accumulators of small

gains had made enough to enable them to take their ease for the rest

of their days in Paris, Vienna, or Brussels; but that was not what

they had been slaving and saving for. Of the 100,000 francs each of

them had made, each invested the greater part in some good security,

and the rest he expended in buying a piece of land, and in building a

house, in that valley that has the climate of Iceland; and this house

and land together with the money invested, which enables him to live

in the house, is his unquestioned patent of nobility. In right of his

manifestly achieved success he assumes his place in the aristocracy of

the valley.

This is a spontaneously formed, and self-acting system. The distinction

is real and substantial, and the way to it is open to all, and must be

travelled by all who attain to the distinction, and none who travel it

successfully can miss the distinction. With us it is different. Here

there are many ways of making money, and but few only of those who have

trodden successfully some one or other of the many ways attain to the

splendid summits of society. It is not so in the Grisons. There the man

who makes the money in the hard and humble way open to him, and builds

the big house, and lives in it, becomes _ipso facto_ a Grison grandee.

He climbed up to his Herrship by a ladder that was very difficult to

mount, but was equally accessible to all; and every one that climbs

it enters the charmed circle. Enterprise, self-denial, and patience;

great enterprise, for it is that in a penniless peasant to go out into

the unknown world to compete with the natives of some great foreign

city, unflinching self-denial, and heroical patience are the only

course open to them. If the same mental stuff is needed for the making

of the Cæsar of the village as of the Cæsar of the world, then we may

suppose that under different circumstances, these men would have risen

to eminence through higher paths. They were made of good stuff. We see

in them men, who had their lot been cast here, would have become Lord

Chancellors, Admirals, Generals, Statesmen, Scholars, merchant Princes,

perhaps even Bishops.

But these successful builders of big houses are not all the people;

and we must not allow their big houses to hide from our view the

small houses of these little towns, and the small people who live in

them. All men have not the same gifts; and of those who have all do

not exercise them alike and to like issues. Many may have had the

enterprise without the heroical self-denial and patience, which in some

cases may mean a narrow horizon and a hard heart, but which narrow

horizon and hard heart were necessary for success in the case of such

small traffickers. And some, too, may have had the self-denial and

the patience in heroical degrees, and not been deficient either in

the requisite enterprise, but yet were kept back from turning these

qualities to good account by the goodness of their hearts. That may

have kept them at home to provide for, and to tend, an aged parent in

his chair-days; or an early affection may have influenced them to the

same result. And so possibly there may be as good stuff, intellectually

and morally, among those who have never left the village as among those

who went forth into the world, and prospered. Chance, too, has a place

in the affairs of men. Good fortune does not always mean good conduct,

nor bad fortune bad conduct. Conduct that was both wise and good may

have had ill-fortuned results. But we will set these cases aside, and

ask if those who, because they stayed at home for good reasons, and

so are now in no better condition than their fathers were, and those

who went forth and prospered, find in any sense their rewards equal?

Certainly not, if both of them measure, as the world does, all things

by francs. Still each has his reward, and the reward of satisfied

affections, and of a satisfied sense of duty, is great as it is felt at

the moment, for at that time every consideration gives way to it; and

it is great also in retrospect, which is the recalling of the feelings

of that moment. We are glad, then, to witness the success of those who

made the francs, and built the stone houses, and to talk with them

of their experiences of the world in which the francs were made; but

this does not diminish our respect for those who stayed at home, and

who will live, and toil, and die in the same small wooden _châlets_ in

which their fathers lived, and toiled, and died. Indeed, our respect

for them, and even our disposition to like them, are rather increased

by the sight of the big mansions of the lemonade, and bon-bon, and

coffee and confectionery lords.

So much in explanation of the big houses we find not only in the

Engadin, but more or less in all the Grison valleys. We now come to

the valley itself. The sun on this day was unclouded; but we were on

the road from the Maloja to St. Moritz; these words, therefore, must

not be taken to mean what they would stand for had they been said of a

drive from Bath to Bristol. We all know what a cloudless day is here

in the middle of August: in the Upper Engadin it is not quite the same

sort of thing. With respect to what meets the eye: there is no trace

of haze; the definition of every mountain and glacier outline is sharp

and clear; the luminous blue is not blue, or luminous, in our subdued

fashion; and even the greens and grays of the mountains are hardly

less green and gray quite up to the distant sky-line. There is little

toning down. Distance only blends the local variegation into an uniform

colour. You cannot make out the variegation of the flowery turf, of

the lichen-painted rock, and of the glancing foliage and shaded trunks

of the forest, on account of the distance: that is all. The distance

as it were fuses together the smaller differences; and then it puts

a varnish over the whole: the clear bright air is the varnish. Then

as to the appeal this diaphanous rarefied air makes to the sense of

feeling: though, indeed, it is not air; that is a word that here would

mislead; it is a celestial ether; and so with the sun, though it is

hot, what you feel is not heat; it is a permeating, invigorating,

life-creating warmth; this warmth, then, which the sun imparts to

this ether, pervades your lungs, your heart, and reaches to your very

bones. It makes you conscious of a lighter, and of a quicker life

than you ever felt before. Like the air of the desert it so rapidly,

so instantaneously evaporates the imperceptible perspiration that the

skin beneath your clothes as well as that of your face develops a new

sensation. It has ceased to be merely a tough, half-dead integument,

whose function is just to protect you from external rubs. As the flower

expands to the light, and turns to it, from the satisfaction it has

in absorbing it, so your skin has become sensitive to this ether, and

feels the delight of being in contact with it. And a third sense has

yet to be gladdened. Up here it is now the middle of hay harvest, and

the air is pervaded with the fragrance of the new hay. And you are all

the way passing by, or through, pine-forests, and the bright sun is

constantly raising into the air from their trunks, branches, and leaves

myriad molecules of their resinous exudations; and this perfume also is

wafted to you.

And then the scene has its peculiar features. In these twelve miles

you pass four lakes; the small lake of the Maloja summit, the Silser

see, four and a half miles long, the Silva Planer see somewhat longer,

and that of St. Moritz about a mile in length. Thus, throughout almost

all the way, you are driving along this chain of lakes, on a road a

little above them. Of the colour of these mountain lakes our English

home-trained eyes know nothing. It must be seen to be understood.

It is of the blue of the sky, only a shade less deep, and with some

slight admixture of green. You wonder what the trout that live in them

can find to live upon in water so pure, and which, in truth, is not

water, but the lymph of the celestial depths--heaven’s azure liquefied.

Everyone feels the charm of water as an addition to the scene: but such

lakes as these, which are not of water, but of some less earthly fluid,

how great is the charm they add to this scene! And the more so, if you

have come upon them suddenly after some days of trudging and toiling in

the mountains, where the eyes were wearied, almost wounded, with the

continual recurrence of pinnacles and precipices, rocks and ravines,

nothing but what was hard, dark, jagged, and torn. The impressions of

sombreness, ruggedness, and terror that had of late been stamped on

your brain, and seemed to be in it like things that were alive, are now

laid to rest by the sight of the smooth blue: its effects are soothing

and healing.

Another peculiarity of this road is the number of glaciers and snow

summits that are seen from it. Of these, too, as it is with the blue

lakes, you are hardly ever out of sight. You come abreast of a lateral

valley; and as you look up it you see at its head a mighty glacier,

the view of which seems so complete that you think you can make out

its whole course, that is to say its whole life, from the snowfield

out of which it is compacted, and by which it is forced on, till at

last it issues, in another form, from its own mouth. Or a range before

you recedes a little, or becomes depressed a little, and you see at

this point a mighty snow-capped giant from behind peering over into

the valley; and you feel the current of crisp air that is flowing down

into the valley from the glacier, or from the giant’s head--the breath

of the glacier, or of the giant. And in the twelve miles you pass as

many towns as you do lakes; one for every three miles: all clean, and

flourishing: and not a dilapidated hovel in a land where nothing is

grown but grass, and where there are nine months of winter and three

of cold, with the exception of a few such days as was to-day! This

absence of visible poverty adds much to the sense of satisfaction with

which you contemplate the scene. Nature here has made it difficult for

man to live upon his fellow man, for a man, under the conditions here

imposed upon him, can hardly do more than support himself. Of course

three-fourths of the population might be cleared off, and half the

quantity of cattle maintained; but that is not the turn things took

here. Every man, excepting the capitalists we have already spoken of,

and no one grudges them their hard-earned accumulations, which besides

do good to some, and no harm to anyone, everyone, excepting them, must

work hard to live; but to live here by his hard work a man must himself

have the fruits of it.

The direction in which the stream by your side is flowing is often an

ingredient in the thought of the wanderer among these mountains of

central Europe. ‘This stream,’ he says to himself, ‘is hurrying to join

the Po, or the Rhine, or the Rhone.’ On this day I said to myself,

‘These charming lakes are among the head Waters of the Danube.’ The

little stream we passed as it came racing down from Monte Lunghino into

the Silser see is the furthest urn of the Inn. This makes you feel that

you have passed into another region. The continent is now inclining

in another direction. The Danube, and the Black Sea for a time become

the goal of your thoughts of this kind. In this respect Lunghino along

the eastern roots of which I was now passing, and the opposite side

of which I had traversed yesterday, is pre-eminent, for it contains

the diffluent urns of three great historic rivers, the Rhine, the Po,

and the Danube; of the Rhine by giving birth to one of the feeders of

the Oberhalbstein stream, of the Po by giving birth to a feeder of the

Maira, which joins the Adda as it is on the point of entering the lake

of Como, and of the Danube by giving birth to the actual head water of

the Inn.

A little more than a mile before you reach St. Moritz, you look down

on the old monster Kurhaus, and a new and more monstrous one nearly

completed. They are upon the alluvial flat at the head of the lake.

As I saw by my side a patch or two of potatoes smitten by summer

frosts, I thought it strange that any people, possessed of free agency,

especially invalids, could be found to descend into, and to stay in,

such a place. With what ice-cold vapour must the evaporation from that

alluvial bottom load the air so soon in the afternoon as the sun is

off the ground, and down there they cannot have much of him! And how

cutting must the cold wind be down there! Is there anything that can

compensate for these evils? I doubt much whether mineral waters can

that sometimes are in fashion, and sometimes are forsaken. But there

will always be plenty of people who will try anything of this kind,

and there will always be some who will endeavour to persuade people to

resort to such supposed remedies. One would like to know what is the

proportion of people who go to these places a second time, not for the

sake of the society they expect to find at them, but for the sake of

the waters; and whether the proportion of actual cures is much greater

than of the cures effected by touching the bones, or the old clothes,

of some supposed saint. If after two or three weeks at such a place

as this a man finds himself no worse than when he reached it, he may

infer that after all his system is not so far enfeebled but that air,

exercise, and diet may do something for him.

The above wayside remark is made subject to correction from those who

thoroughly understand these subjects. There is, however, another way of

looking at this charming lake, with the green forest that descends to

it from the opposite mountain, and beyond the lake the valley opening

up to Pontresina, and with the long varied vistas up and down the main

valley, and with the little town of St. Moritz, perched on its niche on

the mountain side, close before you. There is so much variety, so many

objects, so much colour, and everything is so clear and fresh, and so

bright in the sunshine, that you can hardly think the scene belongs to

the same world as you are accustomed to at home. It hardly looks real,

the difference is so great. It looks like something got up to please

and astonish you, and in this it quite succeeds.

We reached the Post _bureau_ of St. Moritz at 11.30, and started

at once for Pontresina, the Australian having shouldered my _sac_,

or--to be accurate--having taken it in his hand, for from a feeling of

self-respect he would never shoulder it in a town, lest this method

of carrying it might lead to the degrading inference that he was a

professional. The walk was a pleasant one of about four miles down to

and across the Inn, along the lake side, and through woods and meadows.

I was just in time to save my engagement. Of course everybody knows

that time was made for slaves, but sometimes it is pleasant to be

punctual, for instance when a long business, subject throughout to a

variety of circumstances, has been brought to a close at a prearranged

moment, for then you may fancy that it is you who are master of time

and of yourself.

As I parted with the Australian he was sufficiently professional to ask

for more than he had agreed to serve me for plus the present I added

to the agreement. This demand I did not decline to comply with, for

had I not now reached my destination for the time with some treasure

of memorable sights and of pleasant thoughts for myself, and how could

our journeyings benefit him except in this way of francs? And why

by withstanding his request for more should I ruffle my companion,

or be ruffled myself? Besides, too, in our last four miles I had

begun to think him less burdensome, or more tolerable, than he had

appeared to me at any time previously. In those four miles he had

again, as he had frequently done on other occasions (but as now I was

about to see him no more the incongruity seemed rather amusing than

shocking) called the ravines gullies, the forest bush, my _sac_ the

swag, and the glaciers--how horrible, but how explicable in such a

circumnavigator--the icebergs! And so after all we parted amicably, as

it is best that people should, and with reciprocal expressions of good

wishes for each other’s welfare.

Pontresina consists of a long narrow street. At its northern extremity,

by which those arriving from the Engadin enter it, the first building

you pass is one of its two large hotels. The other is at its southern

extremity. A few hundred yards beyond this is a second little town,

Upper Pontresina, with its hotel. The two will soon be united into

one long unbroken street of about a mile in length. This street is

crowded at most hours of the day. There are people returning from

their forenoon excursions, and others starting for their afternoon

excursions. People arriving from, or leaving for the near towns of the

Engadin, or from or for Italy by the Bernina Pass. After the early

dinner, which had regulated my movements throughout the forenoon,

and indeed for some days back, my wife and her little boy took me in

hand, to introduce me to the sights of the place. ‘There is the Roseg

valley, and the Roseg glacier, with such and such peaks above it.’

These could be seen from Pontresina. ‘We will take you there to-morrow.

This afternoon we will go along the main valley, and give you a look

at the Morterasch.’ And that was what they did. The road, like the

street, only in a less degree, was alive with parties coming and going,

for it is not only the way to the Morterasch and Bernina, but also the

route to Italy by Poschiavo and Tirano. The evening was closing in when

we returned to Pontresina. The crowd in the single street had now in

the neighbourhood of the Post _bureau_ become almost a block. In the

crowd I met an Englishman I had seen in the morning at Casaccia. His

air was distracted. He had been for some time in search of a place to

shelter him for the night, but was everywhere told the same story, that

his search would be hopeless: even every landing and passage in every

private house, where a shake-down could be placed, was already bespoken.

Bewildering was the stir in the narrow street. There were many Germans,

but the English including the Americans, or as they might put it, the

Americans including the English, were largely in the majority. The

peculiarity of the crowd was that it included many children, and almost

as many ladies as gentlemen. What was it that had brought together this

concourse of people from many nations, and even from the New World?

It was simply to see glaciers. The glaciers had been there from time

before history, from the time, it may be, that man had trod the soil

of Europe: it is scarcely, however, a dozen years since such crowds

began to assemble here to see them. This indicates new thoughts and

new sentiments about the world we live in, as well as an increase of

wealth and of facilities for locomotion. It was never so seen of old

times. In our fathers’ times men and women flocked to London and Paris,

as they had done in the old world to Rome, to see and to be seen.

Society was the great attraction. For a little time a few had been

attracted to Athens, because it was the centre of art, of culture, and

of refinement, but that was a dawn of promise that was soon overcast.

For some thousand years before that dawn so soon obscured, the greatest

annual gatherings of men had been at Egyptian Thebes. The object,

however, which had brought them together there had been the exchange

of the commodities of Asia and of Africa. The attraction was first

commerce, then social dissipation. Here men are brought together in

a lofty Alpine valley, too cold to grow a potato, where there is no

trade, and no society, to see mountains and glaciers. This is a higher,

because a purely intellectual, purpose. In the first gatherings of the

young world only one class of men took part, merchants and traders. In

the next mainly those who had riches and nothing to do. Here we have,

without excluding the rich, men of all professions, mostly not rich,

and many of them with plenty to do. They come in multitudes; and the

cry is still, ‘they come,’ that is in yearly increasing multitudes.

But the impulse that has carried the world to Pontresina, will not stop

at Pontresina. At no distant day the children of these summer-tourists,

when locomotion shall have been still further improved, will cross

oceans for their summer excursions, and will climb the Andes, and

the Himalaya, as their children may the Mountains of the Moon, going

perhaps by the Soudan railway we now hear is in contemplation, and

taking the sources of the Nile by the way. People will not for ever,

now that they have begun to look out on the world, be content with the

moderate altitudes, and the sombre, monotonous pine woods of central

Europe. The appetite for seeing nature is one that grows with what it

feeds on. Those who have found pleasurable emotions result from seeing

Switzerland will wish to see something more of this glorious world.

They will long to become acquainted with grander mountain ranges,

with nobler and more diversified faunas and floras than those of our

temperate zone, and with other conditions and forms of human life than

those which obtain among a portion of our near kindred circumstanced

not very dissimilarly from ourselves.

The history of the recent spread of the love now so widely felt for

nature is interesting and instructive. Clearly it had its rise in that

increase in the knowledge of nature which belongs to our times. It

is, however, obvious that it is not confined to those who have this

knowledge in the form and degree which would entitle it to be regarded

as scientific. They are few, but the desire is felt by many, almost,

indeed, by all who have received any culture worthy of the name. It

seems, therefore, to have spread from the few to the many by a kind

of infection, which shows that it is a natural taste, which former

conditions kept in a state of repression. From what we see we may

conclude that the acquisition and possession of the images and ideas,

which the contemplation, or if that is too strong a word for the case

of those who have been debarred from any scientific acquaintance with

nature, then which the mere sight of the forms and phenomena of nature

supplies to the mind, is a source of delight. Of course, the delight

would be far greater, had the previous knowledge been wider and deeper,

that is to say had the mind been better fitted for the reception of

the images and ideas; but still it is felt, and so strongly as to give

rise to a desire for more extended fields of observation. Even in old

times there are indications of this pleasure having been felt. It was

not absent from the awe and wonder which accompanied the observation of

the starry firmament, and of the phenomena of the great deep, or from

the attempt to co-ordinate the details of the natural scene as depicted

in the hundred and fourth Psalm. Solomon’s collection of facts and

observations about animals and plants--for his works on these subjects

must have been something of this kind--was suggested by this pleasure.

And as these emotions had such issues among the ancient Hebrews, we

cannot suppose that their kindred neighbours were strangers to them. We

know, too, that by the Greeks and Romans they were still more strongly

felt. From these early observations and impressions, accompanied by

pleasurable emotions, as from a small germ, but one that was full of

vital power, has arisen the distinctly aimed effort to grasp in one

intelligible whole all the phenomena and forces of nature, and all the

forms of life the world has to show us. What was long ago dimly divined

is now clearly understood that the world, and all it contains, are very

good; that precisely it, and nothing else is the great external gift of

God to man--man’s great inheritance; and that it is only by seeing it,

and understanding it, that he can enter on the possession of it: for

there is no other way in which he can make it his own.

But the picture which the world presents to us for contemplation is not

composed merely of land and water, ranging through different zones,

with their respective floras and faunas, and physical phenomena: the

soul of the picture is the observer himself--man; not the individual

observer, but the race. Man it is that imparts dramatic life and

interest to the picture. Not that this globe is without a progress,

that is a history, of its own. It has that, but its history is devoid

of the highest element of interest, that is the moral element. It is

by viewing the world in connexion with man that the picture becomes

invested with this, the highest source of interest. And if an extended

view of the world, inclusive of man’s place in it, and relation to

it, be taken, whether the extension be in the direction of space, or

of time, it will be seen in each view with equal clearness--and the

inference from one view proves and confirms the inference from the

other, for they are identical--that in the long drama of human history

it is increase in the knowledge of nature which has led to increase

in man’s dominion over nature, and it is increase in his dominion over

nature which has led on to, and given rise to, those conditions which

have resulted in a richer and higher moral life.

A walk in the Grisons · 第 8 / 16 章