When preparing for an outing, consider the kind of work you intend
to do and select your plates accordingly.[3] If it is intended to
make instantaneous exposures, get the most sensitive plates
possible; those of the highest sensitometer number should be
procured. For subjects from still life, inanimate objects,
landscapes, etc., etc., slower plates are preferable. When filling
your holders, carefully brush all dust from the surface of the
plates, ascertain that the lenses are clean, and wrap them in
chamois. Carry no useless weight.
[3] The Stanley lightning is particularly recommended to amateurs
for all quick work.
When you have selected your standpoint, plant the legs of the
tripod well apart to insure steadiness of support and make sure
that the camera is level and firmly screwed to the tripod. If you
use a drop shutter, slow exposures may be made by holding the
slide in the hand and passing it down slowly over the opening in
front of the lens. When using double holders mark the side exposed
as soon as made. Carry a piece of cetaceum paper, which may be
used as a substitute in case you break your ground glass. The head
cloth may be used as a changing box by covering the holder and box
of plates with it and folding the ends around the wrists, securing
them by rubber bands; then proceed by the sense of feeling. Before
exposing draw the slides, so that no light may enter the plate
holder.
Be sure you are right, then go ahead.
Before developing plates that have been exposed instantaneously,
let them soak a few minutes in water [p239] with a small
portion of soda or ammonia, then wash them and develop with the
normal developer. Mr. Inglis suggests that for extra rapid
exposures a very slow development with weak developer will give
better detail and strength.
The paper films must be developed always with a strong developer
to secure best results.