No. 1 1 dr.
No. 2 1/2 dr.
Water 6 oz.
Put the exposed plate into the developing tray and [p056] pour
the solution upon it, making sure that all parts of the plate are
covered, and no air bubbles fixed to the surface; keep the dish in
motion and in a short time the image will begin to appear; if
properly timed the high lights will show up promptly, and in due
time all parts will appear, and when detail is seen in the shadows
take the plate from the dish and examine it by transmitted light.
Note the gradations of light and shade; if they appear properly
balanced, the plate has been properly timed in exposure. Return the
plate to the dish and let the development proceed until the image
sinks well into the film and you see nothing very clearly as it lies
but the blacks.
Time is necessary in this process to secure enough intensity, and
this stage is the most difficult in the process, there being no
means by which to judge with any degree of certainty the density of
the image before you. It is better then to proceed too far than not
far enough, as a slow printing negative is far better than one that
is too thin and weak.[1]
[1] These directions apply to all dry plates except the Stanley,
which can be developed to any required density at sight, and loses
none in the fixing solution.
When the image has sunk pretty well into the film examine it again
by looking through it, and note well its appearance, so that if it
is about right when fixed you may remember how it appeared if you
wish to increase or diminish the intensity of your next plate.
If the plate has been overtimed it will show up quickly, almost at
once; when such is the case quickly pour off the developer and flow
the plate with water, washing it well, then prepare more developer
with nearly double the amount of pyro and a few drops of a [p057]
strong solution of bromide of ammonium, which add to the 6 oz. of
water and pour on the plate; then take half the usual quantity of
the No. 1 solution in a graduate and pour it, a few drops at a time,
into the developing tray, watching the action closely and keeping
the solution in motion.
The negative at this time probably shows all the detail of the
subject, but without any gradation of intensity. If the changes just
described have been made promptly you will soon observe that the
high lights will begin to gain in strength. Keep up the action by
adding more of the alkali, drop by drop, until you can proceed no
farther.
The chances are that you will secure a printable negative, but not a
very good one; and if it is a portrait the best thing to do is to
throw it away and make a new one.
The plate should now be very carefully washed previous to fixing.
Should the film show signs of loosening from the edges of the glass
and swell so as to form folds or frills, take it from the water and
immerse it in a solution of alum, which will harden the film and
stop the frilling. Then wash the film again and put it in the