HOW TO MAKE DECK FITTINGS, RUDDER, ETC.
I purpose in this chapter to show how to make and fit all that is
required on the deck to secure and work the rigging and sails. The
following is a diagram of the deck of the ship, with each object in its
proper place, and further on will be given enlarged drawings of each,
with description:--
[Illustration]
The first object, _a_, is a 1½ in. or 2 in. screw-eye, with large eye
for the bowsprit to go through; this must be carefully screwed into
the thick wood at the stem through the deck; _b_ is the chock for the
heel or inner end of the bowsprit to fit in; _c_ is the horse for the
foresheet to work on; _d_ is the hole or step for the mainmast; _e_ is
the hatchway or opening in the deck, just large enough to admit the
hand easily; _f_ is the horse for the mainsheet to travel on; _g g_
and _h h_ are 1 in. eye-bolts (screw-eyes) for the bowsprit guys, and
main-backstays to be hooked to; these must be firm and strong. Here is
a diagram of masts, spars, and rigging only.
[Illustration: _a_ mainmast. _b_ topmast. _c_ gaff. _d_ mainboom.
_e_ starboard or right backstay. _f_ larboard or left backstay. _g_
bowsprit. _h_ starboard bowsprit guy. _i_ larboard bowsprit guy. _j_
bobstay. _k_ India-rubber ring to keep boom down.]
Inserting the screw-eye for the bowsprit, _a_, requires no explanation:
it must be just large enough in the eye for the bowsprit to go
through; if not large enough, file it to the necessary size with the
rat-tail file.
The chock _b_ (p. 49) must be made out of a piece of oak or mahogany
about 3 in. long, and about 1 in. thick; a hole ½ in. deep, and of
the diameter of the end or heel of the bowsprit should be made in it;
thus--[Illustration]; the other end may be tapered off to taste, and
screwed strongly right through into the deck exactly amidships. It
should be of such a height that when the bowsprit is in its place it
shall be perfectly in a line with the mid-deck line, and also with
the stem and stern (as shown in the diagram, p. 50). The chock may be
placed any distance from the stem, so long as it is not too close to
the horse for foresheet (diagram, p. 49).
The horse for foresheet is made as follows: Cut two diamond or other
shaped pieces of sheet brass, ⅛ in. thick, and about 1½ in. in length;
thus--[Illustration]; make a small hole at each corner, and a larger
hole in the centre; then take about 5 in. of thick brass wire, and
bend it at the ends so as to be 4 in. apart, put the ends through the
plates; thus--[Illustration], and solder or get soldered, the wire to
the plates underneath; bore holes in the deck 4 in. apart, 2 in. or
so forward of the mainmast, and at equal distance from the mid-deck
line; fit in the two ends, _a a_, and screw the plates firmly to the
deck: if it is desired to be very neat, all the small holes should be
countersunk.
Another horse must be made exactly the same way, but 1 in. wider and
somewhat stronger, for the mainsheet (diagram, p. 49, _f_), and put as
near the edge of the stern as due regard for strength will permit.
The step or socket for the mainmast comes next. Get a short piece of
brass tube ⅝ in. internal diameter, and about 7½ in. long; have a screw
soldered into one end; thus--
[Illustration]
Bore a hole in the deck exactly amidships, and of exactly the same
diameter as the outside of the pipe or socket 13 in. from the stem,
_i.e._ ⅓ the length of the deck; put the brass tube in the hole, and
screw it tightly to the bottom of the ship, perpendicular to a line
drawn from stem to stern, and also from side to side, so that the
mainmast when put in it will be perfectly upright from all sides; file
the top of the socket off if too high, so as to leave not more than ¼
in. above the deck.
To make the hatchway or hole (_e_ in diagram, p. 49), cut out an oval
or oblong hole in the centre of the deck, just abaft or behind the beam
(diagram H, p. 39); a water-tight cover or stopper must be made for
this with cork, wood, or anything the maker pleases, it matters not
provided it is not much above the level of the deck, is water-tight,
and can be taken in or out.
Now bore a small hole through the deck, close to the starboard quarter
(see _i_ in diagram, p. 49), make a short peg to fit it, and call it
the _pump_; by inclining the ship towards this hole after sailing, and
drawing the peg, you can see if she has leaked, and let the water out
if necessary.
The screw-eyes _g g_ and _h h_, p. 49, explain themselves by referring
to _e_, _f_, _h_, and _i_, in diagram, p. 50; they are to hook on
the rigging as there shown. These eye-bolts, _h h_, must be as close
abaft the mainmast as is consistent with their properly supporting the
mainmast, both laterally and aftwards. The reason is that if placed too
far aft they would interfere with the mainboom swinging far enough out
when running before the wind; the nearer the mainboom is to a right
angle with the keel, the steadier and faster the ship will run before
the wind. _g g_ may be in a line with the horse for the foresheet _c_
(diagram, p. 49); care must be taken to screw them through the edge of
the deck, and into the gunwale firmly.
To cast the rudder, make a small wooden mould or box similar to that
for the keel, about 6 in. long, 3 in. deep, and ½ in. wide.
[Illustration]
Insert two moderately thick pieces of brass wire through the bottom,
and about an inch into the box (as in dotted line), bend them so as
to make them stick in the lead, and just as far apart as are the two
screw-eyes for this rudder in diagram “stern,” p. 44; pour in 1¼
lbs. of melted lead, trim the lead with the rasp, and turn the wires
thus--[Illustration]; and when hooked into the screw-eyes or gudgeons,
it should act easily either to right or left. Skilful or tasteful young
model yacht sailors can vary the shape of the rudder; I have given the
simplest and easiest shape to make.
This completes all the deck fittings necessary for working and sailing
the ship, but if on trial the rudder should be too heavy or too light,
another must be made--experience is the best guide.
I need hardly say that every direction I have given need not be
followed to the letter; those who see and know what is required can
do many things in their own way, and much must necessarily be left to
individual taste, skill, and ingenuity.
At this stage, varnish the deck with copal varnish, and paint the hull
whatever colour or colours fancy dictates; I, however, advise one
colour only for the hull, it is less trouble and easier to repaint or
repair, eventualities often recurring with model yachts.