WAYS AND MEANS. WHAT TO TAKE AND WHAT NOT TO TAKE, INFORMATION FOR THOSE
THAT WISH, INTEND OR HOPE TO HUNT IN THE AFRICAN HIGHLANDS
When one returns to America after some time in the African game country,
he is assailed by many questions from others who wish, intend, or hope
to make a similar trip. Almost without variation the questioner will ask
about the cost, about the danger from fever and sickness, about snakes
and insects, about the tempers of the tribes one encounters, and then,
if he be a specialist, he will ask about the rifles and the camp
equipment. As these familiar and oft repeated inquiries have been made
by friends who had read my African letters, I must assume that the
features of an African hunting trip, about which people are most
curious, were very imperfectly answered in the preceding chapters.
Hence, this supplementary chapter, dealing briefly with the ways and
means of such a trip, is added for the enlightenment of such readers as
may be planning a journey into those fascinating regions of Africa where
I have so recently been.
As to the cost of a trip of three or more months in the field I should
say that about one thousand dollars a month would amply cover the total
expenses from New York back to New York. This amount would include
passage money, guns, ammunition, landing charges, commissions, camera
expenses on a reasonable scale, tents, customs--in fact all the
incidental items which are not customarily included in the estimate
given by the Nairobi outfitters. These firms, chief of which are the
Newland, Tarlton and Company, Limited, which directed Colonel
Roosevelt's _safari_, and the Boma Trading Company, which directed the
Duke of Connaught's hunt, agree to outfit a party at a cost of about
five-hundred dollars a month for each white man. For this amount they
furnish everything except your ammunition, clothes, medicines, camera
supplies, export and import duties, mounting of trophies, passage money
to and from Africa, and such items. To particularize, they agree to
supply for this amount, a complete outfit of tents, foods, porters, camp
attendants, gunbearers, horses, mules or ox teams, as may be required,
and a native head-man or overseer.
One who wished to do so could telegraph ahead to have one of the Nairobi
outfitting firms prepare a one, two or three months' hunt, or _safari_,
and then, with only a suit-case he could arrive, with the certainty that
everything would be in readiness. There would be no worry or concern
about any feature of that part of the work. He would be relieved of the
anxiety of preparation, and it is hardly likely that he would ever
regret having taken this course. The dealings of our _safari_ with
Messrs. Newland and Tarlton were most satisfactory in all respects and
the charges they made were entirely reasonable. To the one who desires
to make this trip in this, the simplest way, there is the need of giving
only one suggestion: Let him write to one of the outfitting firms,
stating the length of time that he can spend in the field, the class of
game that he chiefly wishes to get, the number of white men in his
party, and the season of the year that he plans to be in Africa. The
outfitters will then answer, giving all the particulars of cost and
equipment. This is the course that I should recommend for the average
hunter who has had no previous experience in Africa. It will save him
the trouble of making an endless amount of preparation, much of which
will be useless because of his ignorance of conditions in that field of
sport.
In the case of our own _safari_, we bought our guns, tents, ammunition,
foods and entire equipment in London and had it shipped to Nairobi. This
equipment contemplated a trip of six months in the field, and included
sixty-five "chop boxes" of sixty pounds each, containing foods. These
chop boxes were of wood, with lids and locks, twenty of which were tin
lined for use in packing specimens later in the trip, and all marked
with bands of various colors to identify their contents. The boxes
contained the following supplies:
TWENTY CASES (RED BAND)
Two tins imperial cheese.
One pound Ceylon tea.
One three-quarter pound tin ground coffee.
One four-pound tin granulated sugar.
Two tins ox tongue.
One tin oxford sausage.
Two tins sardines.
Two tins kippered herrings.
Three tins deviled ham (Underwood's).
Two tins jam (assorted).
Two tins marmalade (Dundee).
Three half-pound tins butter.
Three half-pound tins dripping.
Ten half-pound tins ideal milk.
Two tins small captain biscuit.
Two tins baked beans, Heinz (tomato sauce).
One half-pound tin salt.
One two-pound tin chocolate (Army and Navy).
Two parchment skins pea soup.
One one and one-half pound tin Scotch oatmeal.
TWENTY CASES (BLUE BAND)
Two tins baked beans (Heinz) (tomato sauce).
One tin bologna sausage.
One tin sardines.
One tin sardines, smoked.
Two one-pound tins camp, pie.
Five tins jam, assorted.
Two tins marmalade (Dundee).
Five half-pound tins butter.
Three half-pound tins dripping.
Ten half-pound tins ideal milk.
Two tins imperial cheese.
One one and one-quarter pound tin Ceylon tea.
One three-quarter pound tin ground coffee.
One four pound tin granulated sugar.
One quarter-pound tin cocoa.
Two tins camp biscuit.
One half-pound tin salt.
One one and one-half tin Scotch oatmeal.
One one-pound tin lentils.
One tin mixed vegetables (dried).
One two-pound tin German prunes.
Six soup squares.
One ounce W. pepper.
Two sponge cloths.
One-half quire kitchen paper.
One two-pound tin chocolate (Army and Navy).
SIXTEEN CASES (GREEN BAND)
Three fourteen-pound tins self-raising flour.
Two cases (black band) containing fifteen bottles lime juice (plain)
Montserrat.
Two cases, each containing one dozen Scotch whisky.
Two cases (red and blue band) thirty pounds bacon, well packed in
salt.
Two cases (yellow and black band) five ten-pound tins plaster of
Paris for making casts of animals.
One case (red and green band) fifty pounds sperm candles--large size
(carriage).
Four folding lanterns.
The following items to be equally divided into as many lots as necessary
to make sixty-pound cases:
Eight Edam cheeses.
Twenty tins bovril.
Twenty two-pound tins sultana raisins.
Ten two-pound tins currants.
Ten one-pound tins macaroni.
Thirty tins Underwood deviled ham.
Eighty tablets carbolic soap.
Eighty packets toilet paper.
Ten bottles Enos' fruit salt.
Twenty one-pound tins plum pudding.
Six tins curry powder.
Twenty one-pound tins yellow Dubbin.
Six one-pound tins veterinary vaseline.
Six one-pound tins powdered sugar.
Six tin openers.
Twelve tins asparagus tips.
Twelve tins black mushrooms.
Six large bottles Pond's extract.
Twelve ten-yard spools zinc oxide surgeon's tape one inch wide.
Two small bottles Worcestershire sauce.
In addition to the foregoing we added the following equipment of table
ware:
Eight white enamel soup plates--light weight.
Eight white enamel dinner plates--light weight.
Three white enamel vegetable dishes--medium size.
Six one-pint cups.
Eight knives and forks.
Twelve teaspoons.
Six soup spoons.
Six large table-spoons.
One carving knife and fork.
Six white enamel oatmeal dishes.
As our tent equipment and some of the miscellanies necessary to our
expedition, the subjoined articles were procured:
Four double roof ridge tents 10 by 8--4 feet walls, in valises.
One extra fly of above size, with poles, ropes, etc, complete.
Five ground sheets for above, one foot larger each way,
_i.e._, 11 by 9.
Four mosquito nets for one-half tents, 9 feet long.
Four circular canvas baths.
Twelve green, round-bottom bags 43 by 30.
Four hold-all bags with padlocks.
Two fifty-yard coils 1 1-4 Manila rope.
One pair wood blocks for 1 1-4 brass sheaves, strapped with tails.
Four four-quart tin water bottles.
Two eight-quart Uganda water bottles.
Four large canvas water buckets.
One gross No. 1 circlets.
One punch and die.
The foregoing lot of supplies were ordered through Newland, Tarlton and
Company's agent at 166 Piccadilly, London, and were ready when we
reached London.
Medicines and Surgical Equipment
It is well to provide a good store of medicines and some instruments,
even though, as in our case, we had little occasion to use any of it.
One of the Burroughs and Wellcome medicine cases "for East Africa" is
compact and well selected. In addition there should be plenty of zinc
oxide adhesive plaster, some bandages and some hypodermic syringes for
use in case of wounds which might lead to blood poisoning. In our first
experience with lions we always went prepared for wounds of this sort,
but later we took no precautions whatever and fortunately had no
occasion for heroic measures. At the same time, it is far wiser always
to be prepared.
We were also well supplied with tick medicines, but in spite of the fact
that we encountered millions of ticks, they gave us no concern and no
tick preventatives were used. Quinine and calomel are essentials and may
be bought in Nairobi.
Rifles
It is important that each hunter include in his battery one heavy
double-barreled cordite rifle for use at close quarters where a shocking
impact is desirable. Each of our party had a .475 Jeffery, which we
found to be entirely satisfactory, and which served us as well as though
we had used the more expensive Holland and Holland's .450. I do not
presume to know much about the relative merits of rifles, but after an
experience of four and a half months with the Jeffery's .475, I feel
justified in saying that this type would meet all requirements reliably.
These rifles cost thirty-five guineas each.
Mr. Akeley and I each had a nine millimeter Mannlicher, which we found
to be unsatisfactory, either through fault of our own or of the rifle.
We had a feeling that the weight of the ball was too great for the
charge of powder. Others may favor it, but I should not include it in my
battery if I were to go again. This type costs twelve guineas.
Mr. Stephenson used a .318 Mauser, which he found most satisfactory. We
also had three .256 Mannlichers, which in my experience is a type for
which too much praise can not be given. It is also a twelve guinea
rifle.
In mentioning these three rifles of foreign make, I do not wish to imply
that they are superior to our own American guns. Colonel Roosevelt used
a Winchester .405 and a Springfield, both of which he considered most
desirable. I think if I were to go again I should take a .405 as my
second gun, heavy enough for all purposes except the close-quarter work
where the big cordite double-barrels are necessary.
The matter of a battery is one which each sportsman should determine for
himself. There are many good types and a man is naturally inclined to
favor those with which he is familiar.
We also carried shot guns, one ten-gauge which, with buck shot, makes a
formidable weapon for stopping charges of soft-skinned animals at close
range; and two twenty-gauge Parkers for bird shooting.
In addition, we included revolvers, none of which we fired or needed at
any time in Africa. Perhaps a heavy six-shooter might some time be a
valuable reserve, but our experience leads me to think that it would
generally repose quietly in camp at all times.
In the way of ammunition for a six-months' shoot, we took for each
cordite rifle, 200 full mantle, 200 soft nose and 100 split cartridges.
For the 9 millimeter, we took for each rifle 450 solids, 500 splits and
500 soft-nosed bullets, and practically the same for the .256
Mannlichers. We found that we had far more ammunition than we required,
especially the solids for the smaller rifles, but it is better to have
too much than to have the fear of running short. One should not forget
that he is likely to shoot more than in his wildest dreams he supposed
possible and the meanest feeling on a hunt is to have constantly to
economize cartridges.
None of us used telescope sights but by many sportsmen they are
considered highly desirable in African shooting where often the range is
great and the light confusing.
Personal Equipment
When we stopped in New York on our way to Africa, we talked with Mr.
Bayard Dominick, who had just returned from such a trip as we had in
mind, and from him secured a list of articles which he found to be
sufficient and equal to all needs. We used this list to guide us and
except in minor details, assembled a similar equipment:
Two suits--coat and breeches--gabardine or khaki.
One belt.
Two knives--one hunting-knife, one jack-knife.
Three pair cloth putties.
Three flannel shirts (I actually only used two).
Six suits summer flannels, merino, long drawers.
Three pair Abercrombie lightest shoes (one pair rubber soles).
Three colored silk handkerchiefs.
Two face towels--two bath towels.
Three khaki cartridge holders to put on shirts to
hold big cartridges, one for each shirt.
One pair long trousers to put on at night, khaki.
Two suits flannel pajamas.
Eight pair socks (I used gray Jaeger socks, fine).
One light west sweater.
One Mackinaw coat (not absolutely necessary).
One rubber coat.
One pair mosquito boots (Lawn and Alder, London).
Soft leather top boots for evening wear in camp.
Five leather pockets to hold cartridges to go on belt.
Three whetstones (one for self and two for gunbearers).
One helmet (we used Gyppy pattern Army and Navy stores).
One double terai hat, brown (Army and Navy stores).
One six-_or_eight-foot pocket tape of steel to measure horns.
One compass.
One diary.
Writing materials.
Toilet articles.
Articles for personal use, however, may be determined by the wishes and
experiences of the individual.
We each had good Zeiss glasses, which are essential, and later, in
Nairobi, were able to obtain a satisfactory replenishment of hunting
clothes and shoes.
Cameras
Everybody who goes shooting will want at least one camera if only for
the purpose of having his picture taken with his first lion, if he is
successful in getting one. Mr. Akeley made special preparations for
taking fine photographs, and for this reason carried a complete outfit,
even to a dark-room equipment for developing negatives and moving
picture films in the field. He carried a naturalist's graflex, a small
hand camera and a moving-picture machine. Mr. Stephenson had a 3A Kodak,
I had the same and also a Verascope stereoscopic camera. We used films
and plates and found no deterioration in them even after several months
in the field. Films and camera supplies may be purchased in Nairobi; and
also the developing and printing may be done most satisfactorily in the
town.
Fevers and Sickness
It is my belief that the dangers of this sort are magnified in the
imaginations of those who contemplate a trip to East Africa. Very little
of the hunting is done in jungles--in fact there are few jungles except
on the slopes of the mountains and along the course of streams. Our
_safari_ went into the Athi Plains, along the Athi River down the Tana
River, up on Mount Kenia and later on the Guas Ngishu Plateau, along the
Nzoia River, and up Mount Elgon. Coming out of this district, we passed
through the Rift Valley and part of our _safari_ went up to Lake
Hannington. So, from personal experience, I can speak with knowledge of
only these sections. Along the Tana we were in fever country, the
altitude being only about thirty-five hundred feet. And yet only two of
our party had touches of fever, so light that they readily yielded to
quinine. This was tick country, and we had been led to believe that we
should be fearfully pestered with these insects. But there was almost no
annoyance from them, due, perhaps, to a good deal of care in keeping
them out of our clothes. There were many mosquitoes in this section, but
effective mosquito nets over our cots protected us from them.
On Mount Kenia, the high Guas Ngishu Plateau and Mount Elgon, the
thought of sickness was entirely absent. These districts were found to
be salubrious and free from ticks and mosquitoes.
Snakes
Before going to Africa, I must admit that the thought of serpents
occasioned much anxiety. I didn't like the idea of tramping around
through grass and reeds where poisonous snakes might be found. And yet,
after a few days in the field, I never seriously thought of snakes as a
possible, or rather probable, source of danger. In four and a half
months, in all kinds of country, much of the time on foot, I saw only
six live snakes. They were all small and only two, a puff adder and a
little viper, were known to be venomous. Our porters, with bare feet and
legs, penetrated all kinds of snaky-looking spots and yet not one was
bitten. In fact, I have never heard of any one being bitten by snakes in
East Africa, and for this reason I can not avoid the conclusion that the
fear of snakes need not be seriously considered as an element of danger
in the country.
The Natives
So many hunting parties have gone over the game fields that the natives
are familiar with white men and are not at all likely to be hostile or
troublesome. Our _safari_ at one time went into a district where we were
warned to expect trouble, but there was none and I think there never
need be any if the white men are considerate and fair. If a district is
known to be particularly troublesome, the government authorities would
not permit a hunting party to go into it, so for that reason the hunters
need apprehend no dangers from that source.
Game
Game is found in varying degrees of abundance in most parts of the East
African highlands. Within two hours of Nairobi the sportsman may find
twelve or fifteen species, while within the space of four weeks a lucky
hunter might secure elephant, lion, rhinoceros, buffalo, eland and
hippopotamus. It is hardly _likely_ that he would, but it is quite
within the range of possibilities. It all depends upon luck. The hunter
is allowed under his two hundred and fifty dollar license, about one
hundred and ninety-five animals, comprising thirty-five species, and not
including lion, leopard, wart-hog and hyena. There is no restriction on
the number of these last-named species that one is allowed to shoot, but
there is on the number that he gets the opportunity of shooting.
The success of an expedition should not be measured by the number of
trophies, but rather by the quality of them. For example, the new
license allows twenty zebras, but no one would want to kill more than
two unless as food for the porters. The same is true of many other
species, and a temperate sportsman should have no desire to kill more
than a couple of each species, say sixty or eighty head in all, unless,
of course, he is making collections for museums or for other scientific
purposes.
The gunbearers are usually fairly good skinners and if carefully watched
and directed can treat the heads and skins so that they may be safely
got in to Nairobi. Here they should be overhauled carefully and packed
in brine for shipment out of the country. The agents in Nairobi should
be consulted about these details and will give competent instructions
covering this phase of the work.
GAME LAWS
These are of necessity under frequent revision, but the latest available
information allows the holder of a fifty-pound license, which lasts for
one year from date of issue, to kill or capture the following:
Buffalo (Bull), 2; [A]Rhinoceros, 2; [A]Hippopotamus, 2; [A]Eland, 1;
Zebra (Grevey's), 2; Zebra, (Common), 20; Oryx callotis, 2; Oryx beisa,
4; Waterbuck (of each species), 2; Sable antelope (male), 1; [A]Roan
antelope (male), 1; [A]Greater Kudu (male), 1; Lesser Kudu, 4; Topi, 2;
Topi (in Jubaland, Tanaland and Loita Plains), 8; Coke's Hartebeest, 20;
[A]Neumann's Hartebeest, 2; Jackson's Hartebeest, 4; Hunter's Antelope,
6; Thomas' Kob, 4; Bongo, 2; Impalla, 4; Sitatunga, 2; Wildebeest, 3;
Grant's Gazelle (Typica, Notata Bright's, Robertsi), each, 3; Gerenuk,
4; Duiker (Harvey's, Isaac's, and Blue), each, 10; Dik-dik (Kirk's,
Guenther's, Hinde's, Cavendish's), each, 10; Oribi (Abyssinian,
Haggard's, Kenia), each, 10; Suni (Nesotragus Moschatus), 10;
Klipspringer, 10; Reedbuck (Ward's, Chanler's), each, 10; Gazelle
(Thompson's, Peter's, Soemmering's), each, 10; Bushbuck (Common,
Haywood's), each, 10; Colobi Monkeys, of each species, 6; Marabou, 4;
Egret, of each species, 4.
[Footnote A: Can not be killed in certain districts.]
SPECIAL LICENSES
These can be taken out for ten pounds each and entitle the holder to
kill or capture:
Elephant with tusks over thirty pounds, each, 1; Bull Giraffe in certain
districts, 1.
A second elephant is allowed on payment of a further fee of twenty
pounds, this fee being returnable in the event of the elephant not being
obtained.
Lions and leopards are classed as vermin, and consequently no license to
kill them is required.
The Season for Shooting
"Practically any time of the year will do for shooting in British East
Africa, but the season of the 'big rains' from the end of January to the
end of April, is not one to choose willingly from the point of view of
comfort. There is also a short spell of rainy weather about October and
November which, however, is not looked upon as an obstacle to a
_safari_, and we may say that from May to February constitutes the
shooting season."
The foregoing is quoted from a pamphlet on East Africa game shooting. In
our own experience the weather between September and February was
perfectly delightful and I judge, from reading accounts of Colonel
Roosevelt's trip, that his operations between April and December were
never seriously hampered by bad weather. From the experiences of these
two _safaris_, one might reasonably conclude that any time is good
except February, March and April, the season of the "big rains."
Heat
On the Athi Plains in September, we found the heat in the middle of the
day to be very ardent, to say the least. But with the exception of fewer
than a dozen days in all, we never were obliged to consider this phase
of the hunting experience as an objectionable feature. We found the cold
of the high altitudes to be severe in the evenings and in contrast to
it, the warm days were most welcome. Along the coast, of course, the
heat is intense, but all of the shooting is done at altitudes exceeding
thirty-five hundred feet and one merely pauses at the coast town long
enough to catch his train. In September even Mombasa was delightful, but
in January it was very hot.
In conclusion, I might say that all one needs for an African hunting
trip is sufficient time, sufficient money, and a fair degree of health.
Also the services of a reliable outfitting firm which will furnish
enlightenment upon all subjects not specifically included in the
foregoing chapter of advice and information.
_With the exception of the photographs, all of which are here
reproduced for the first time, a great part of this material appeared
originally in The Chicago Tribune, and is now published in book form
by the courtesy of that paper._