Fig. 287 _a_) should first have a longitudinal and a transverse
incision made in the bark, the former about 1in. long. Next, the Bud
should be prepared, removing half the leaf (see Fig. 288). Hold the
branch with the left hand, and pass the knife from about 1/2in. below,
gradually upwards and inwards under the Bud, bringing it out in a
similar way at a somewhat shorter distance above. A portion of wood
will also be taken out, and this is generally removed the opposite
way to that in which the Bud has been cut. By skilful Budders, it is
removed by a sort of twitch from either end. Great care must be taken
not to pull out the base or root of the Bud at the same time, as this
would render it useless. Should the whole come out together, leaving
a hollow place under the eye of the Bud, it must be thrown away, and
another prepared. The Bud being ready, loosen the bark at the point
where the incisions meet, with the ivory knife handle, and insert it by
means of the piece of leaf attached. It must then be tied in with soft
matting or bast, to exclude air, but not tight enough to injure the
bark. Shading from bright sun is advisable for a few days afterwards,
and, as soon as the union takes place, the ties must be frequently
examined, and loosened if necessary. Some prefer Budding late in the
season, in order that the Bud may remain dormant during the winter,
and breaking stronger the following spring. Occasionally, they are
inserted in spring, just at the commencement of growth. The stocks of
the Summer-budded trees should only be allowed a moderate amount of
foliage during the autumn, and should be cut back to the established
Bud before growth commences in spring.
_Square and Circular Shield-budding_ consists in cutting out a piece
of bark of either shape from the stock, and inserting another piece of
exactly the same size, containing a Bud, and covering with a bandage,
or piece of sticking plaster, all except the eye. This mode is seldom
made use of. Inverted T or Shield-budding is preferred in the south of
France for propagating Orange-trees, but is not otherwise much used.
The only difference is that the transverse incision is made below,
instead of above, the other, and the Bud inserted upwards, making it
fit with the bark at the point where the stock is cut across.
[Illustration: FIG. 289.]
_Flute-budding_ is sometimes used, and answers well for some trees
(see Fig. 289). A cylinder of bark is removed from the stock, and one
of a similar size from the scion. containing Buds, is fitted in its
place, being carefully made air-tight by means of a bandage or grafting
wax. Some prefer splitting the hark, as shown in the illustration. and
laying it over the tube or cylinder; but the parts cannot be fitted so
well as when it is removed.
_Ring Budding._ By this mode, it is not necessary to cut off the top of
the stock. A ring of bark may be removed from any convenient part (see
Fig. 290 _b_) and replaced with one containing eyes (see Fig. 290 _a_).
The latter should be taken from a little larger branch than the stock,
as the bark could then be made to fit better. As in Flute-budding, air
must be excluded by means of adhesive paper and bandages or grafting
wax.
Budding operations may be performed at any time during the season; but
dull cloudy weather, and morning or evening, are most suitable. If the
branch, containing Buds, cannot be obtained as required for use, the
ends may be placed in water, to keep them fresh; but unnecessary delay
should be avoided.
[Illustration: FIG. 290.]
[Illustration: FIG. 291.]
_Stocks for Budding upon._ For the Cherry, the Wild Gean, and
seedlings from the Morello. make capital stocks for tall trees and
those of moderate growth; and the Mahaleb, or Perfumed Cherry, for
small trees for pots, bushes, pyramids, or cordons. For the Plum, the
Mussel, Mirabelle, Magnum Bonum, St. Julian, &c., are mostly used
for stocks, the Mirabelle being best for small trees. Peaches and
Nectarines are generally budded on the Mussel, St. Julian, or Mirabelle
Plums; the last are best for dwarfs. The Apricot is budded on the
Mussel or Mirabelle Plums, for small plants; and the St. Julian Plum
for standards. In France, the Damas Noir, or Black Damask, and the
Cerisette, are also used. They should all be raised from seeds, and
not from suckers. Seeds for raising plants for stocks may be sown as
soon as ripe; but where quantities are used, the stones are thrown into
heaps, so as to slightly ferment during winter. In the spring, they
are sown in drills or beds, and transplanted the next year in rows
2ft. or 3ft. apart. and 10in. or 12in. from plant to plant. The dwarfs
are generally budded the second year, and the standards the third
or fourth. Dwarf trees are budded from within a few inches of the
ground to 1ft. above; standards and riders from 3ft. to 9ft.; cordons,
pyramids, &c., can hardly be budded too low.
_Rose Budding._ Propagation of Roses by Budding is very extensively
practised both with standard trees and dwarf plants. It is perhaps
easier and more certain to succeed with these than with fruit trees;
but the mode adopted is precisely the same--that of the shield-shaped
Bud with the core, or root, and the bark attached. For standards,
the common briar of the Dog Rose is the best. The earlier these are
obtained and planted in November, the better, as roots are then formed
at once. For dwarf plants, the Manetti stock is mostly used, being
easily obtained and had in proper condition almost at any time when
Buds are ready. Plants on this stock do not succeed in all soils, and
suckers are also very liable to be produced. Budding on the seedling
briar is attended with good results, and is practised more than
hitherto. The De la Grifferaie stock is also used, more for Tea Roses
than others, and is considered by some to produce better plants than
the Manetti. The shoots on standard briars should be reduced to about
three of the strongest, selected as close together as possible, and
near the top, the briars having been previously cut back the desired
height at planting time. Two Buds are sufficient for a good head; but,
for certainty, three may be inserted. Fig. 291 represents a tall briar
with three shoots; _a_ shows the shoot slit for the Bud; _b_, the Bud
inserted; _c_, the Bud tied in. Fig. 292 is a branch showing Buds, the
lowest ones of which are most suitable, being in firmer wood. Those at
the top are often useless. Fig. 293 represents a Bud taken from Fig.
292, _a_, _b_, and Fig. 294 gives an idea of how the wood is removed.
As previously remarked when describing the system, experienced Budders
remove the wood from either end. Fig. 294 shows its removal from the
lower end.
[Illustration: FIG. 292.]
[Illustration: FIG. 293. FIG. 294.]
Budding as close as possible to the main stem is most desirable. Raffia
grass is superior in every way for tying, which should be performed
as soon after the Bud is inserted as possible. It requires much care,
and, of course, the Bud itself must be entirely free. As soon as the
Buds swell, the tying material should be loosened, and the top of the
stock cut back to the level of the budded shoot. By Budding late, the
Buds lie dormant till the next spring, and the necessity of tying the
young shoots is dispensed with for that season. The shoots of the briar
in advance of the Rose Buds must be cut back, as shown in Fig. 295, so
soon as the Buds are safely established. The Manetti and other dwarf
stocks are budded on the main shoot nearly close to, or underneath the
ground, and if low enough to cover part of the rose stem when grown,
the latter often roots as well and assists the stock. Being small, they
may be grown in pots and removed to the required position at any time.
[Illustration: FIG. 295.]
Dog Roses, used for standards, are usually collected from hedgerows,
and sold at about 8s. per hundred. Manetti stocks are increased by
cuttings, which, after making one season's good growth, will be fit for
use. Briars are raised from seed, which may be collected from hedges,
and sown in the autumn, in drills. The seedlings should be transplanted
the first year after sowing, and the following season they will be
ready for working.
=BUDDING KNIVES.= The best Budding Knives are those manufactured by
Messrs. Saynor and Co., and Messrs. G. Hall and Son. They are made with
handles of ivory, shaped in different ways at the end, for the purpose
of opening the bark, in order to insert the Bud. Some of the blades are
made with the edge rounded at the point, so as to cut the bark without
the knife entering the wood underneath (see Figs. 296 and 297). Others,
which may be used for Budding, and are much better for ordinary use for
cutting flowers, &c., are made with the edge of the blade carried to a
point, as in ordinary knives (see Figs. 298 and 299). Another form has
the handle made of some other material, and a piece of ivory inserted
for opening the bark; this is represented in Fig. 300. The first-named
is the best, if required for Budding only; the second is the most
useful for ordinary purposes, and answers admirably for Budding as
well. None of the other shapes have any material advantages over these.
[Illustration: FIG. 296.
FIG. 297.
FIG. 298.
FIG. 299.
FIG. 300.
=BUDDING KNIVES.=]
=BUDDLEIA= (named after Adam Buddle, who is so often mentioned in Ray's
"Synopsis"; his collection of dried British plants is preserved in the
British Museum). ORD. _Loganiaceæ_. A large genus of stove, greenhouse,
or half-hardy shrubs. Flowers small, often tomentose, axillary,
spicate, capitate, or thyrsoid; calyx equally four-toothed; corolla
tubular-campanulate, regular; limb spreading, four-toothed. Leaves
opposite, reticulately veined. Branches quadrangular.
The species most extensively grown is _B. globosa_, which, among all
our other shrubs, is quite unique; but it is only in the southern or
favoured counties of England where it can be fairly termed hardy. It
is readily propagated by cuttings or by seeds. The latter should be
sown in a gentle heat the spring following the ripening, when they
will vegetate pretty freely. With careful treatment and nurturing in
pots for the first winter, in a frost-proof pit or house, they may
soon be grown into elegant plants. Cuttings of the ripened wood, put
in under bell glasses or hand lights, in a cool but frost-proof pit,
will root slowly during the winter. They will root all the surer and
quicker if each cutting has a heel of older wood attached to that of
the current year's growth. They are best inserted in fine sand or in
very sandy soil, and require but little water until rooted. As soon as
fairly calloused over or rooted, their further progress may be much
advanced by potting them off, and plunging them in a bottom-heat of
60deg. or 65deg. This is by no means an essential to secure success,
but it hastens it, and promotes growth in an extraordinary manner. The
surface temperature should range about the same as the bottom-heat.
Under such treatment, the plants will be quite fit to place out about
the middle of July. A warm, sheltered situation should be chosen, and
a light, rich soil prepared for them; and if dry weather ensues, they
only require water. South or west walls are, without doubt, the best
situations for them. In all cool or unfavourable localities, much may
be done to ensure success by planting on a dry bottom, and on poorish
soil. A loose, free-and-easy style of training suits the plants best.
This enables them to yield a great number of their peculiarly formed,
distinct, and beautiful flowers; whereas, anything like a close, trim
course of pruning or of training reduces the flowers to the lowest
number.
Throughout the southern parts of England, and, indeed, in many places
in the north, _B. globosa_ makes an excellent bush for the shrubbery.
It is only during severe winters that it gets badly cut.
For the other presumably hardy species much the same plan as the
foregoing may be adopted. The greenhouse and stove kinds may have the
same routine of culture usually employed with plants requiring similar
temperatures.
Stove species, except where specified otherwise.
=B. americana= (American). _fl._ yellow; spikes disposed in a
terminal panicle, nearly 1ft. long; glomerules nearly globose, size
of a sloe, on short peduncles. August. _l._ ovate, acuminated,
narrowed at the base, serrately crenated. _h._ 8ft. to 12ft. Peru,
1826.
=B. asiatica= (Asiatic).* _fl._ white, small, disposed in long,
dense racemes. _l._ lanceolate, finely serrated. _h._ 3ft. India,
1874. A graceful and sweet-scented shrub. SYN. _B. Neemda_. (B. M.
6323.)
=B. crispa= (curled). _fl._ lilac, with a white eye; numerously
produced in long terminal branching spikes, forming a pyramidal
head about 5in. long. March. _l._ ovate-lanceolate, crenately
curled; lower ones cordate at the base; superior ones rounded, all
thick and wrinkled, clothed with soft tomentum on both surfaces.
_h._ 13ft. Western Himalayas. Half-hardy. (B. M. 4793.)
=B. globosa= (globose).* _fl._ orange, or honey-colour; heads
large, terminal, globose, pedunculate. May. _l._ lanceolate,
acuminated, petiolate, crenated, 6in. long. Branches
sub-tetragonal, clothed with hoary tomentum, as well as the under
side of the leaves. _h._ 15ft. to 20ft. Chili, 1774. Hardy in most
places. (B. M. 174.)
=B. Lindleyana= (Lindley's). _fl._ purplish-red, hairy; disposed in
terminal racemose spikes. September. _l._ ovate, shortly petiolate,
serrate. Branches angular, glabrous. _h._ 6ft. China, 1844.
Half-hardy. (B. R. 32, 4.)
=B. Neemda= (Neemda). A synonym of _B. asiatica_.
=BUDS, FLOWER.= These are developed like Leaf-buds, from which they
differ chiefly in containing one or more incipient flowers within the
leaves--the flowers being wrapped up in their own floral-leaves, within
the ordinary leaves, which have their outer covering of scales. If a
Bud be gathered from a Lilac or Horse-chestnut very early in spring,
all the rudiments of the future flowers and leaves will be found within
it, though the Bud itself may not be more than half-an-inch long, and
the flowers not larger than the points of the smallest pins.
=BUDS, LEAF.= These consist of rudimentary leaves, surrounding a
growing vital point, and appear like a collection of scales arranged
symmetrically one above the other. Leaf-buds universally originate in
the horizontal or cellular system, and are formed under the bark at the
extremity of the medullary rays, and at the margin or on the surface
of leaves, whether perfect or rudimentary. Deciduous trees lose their
leaves, but in the axil of each a little Bud previously forms, from
which fresh leaves expand the following spring. In some cases, as in
the Horse-chestnut, the Buds are covered with a gummy exudation. In
Privet-trees, Leaf-buds are generally smaller and more elongated than
Flower-buds.
=BUETTNERIA= (named after David Sigismund Augustus Byttner, once
a Professor of Botany in the University of Göttingen). ORD.
_Sterculiaceæ_. Erect or scandent stove or greenhouse shrubs. Flowers
small, usually dark purple; calyx and corolla valvate; umbels simple,
disposed in something like racemes or panicles, rarely in corymbs.
Leaves simple. All are of easy culture in a compost of loam and peat.
_B. dasyphylla_, _hermanniæ-folia_, _microphylla_, and _scabra_, are
occasionally met with, but they are hardly worth growing.
=BUETTNERIEÆ.= A section of _Sterculiaceæ_.
=BUFF-TIP MOTH= (_Pygæra bucephala_). This large and beautiful Moth
is very common in many districts; it is easily recognised by the
buff-coloured tips of the fore-wings--whence its common name; the
head, and body between the wings and abdomen, are ochreous. According
to Newman's "British Moths," "the caterpillars, when full grown, are
about an inch and three-quarters long, and sprinkled with silky hairs;
the general colour yellow, with black head, black lines running from
the head to the tail, interrupted by a transverse orange band on each
ring, and a black horny plate above the tail segment." They feed on the
leaves of the Lime, Elm, and Oak, among other trees, and apparently the
only remedy is that generally adopted in exterminating caterpillars,
viz., to shake the branches which are infested, when the pest will be
quickly dislodged, and fall to the ground. Miss Ormerod is of opinion
that "as the caterpillars come down the tree to the ground for their
change to chrysalids, it might be worth while to throw a few spadefuls
of gas-lime, or of anything they would not cross, in a circle at about
a yard from the tree; or a rough band of any material soaked in tar,
or tar and oil, which would keep wet longer, would stop them from
straying off ... and they might be cleared in sufficient numbers so as
to considerably lessen future attack." This plan of prevention deserves
a trial in any place where the destructive caterpillars of these Moths
abound. It is almost a hopeless task to destroy them altogether when
once established on the trees, such specimens as large Oaks being often
almost or wholly denuded of foliage.
=BUGLE.= _See_ =Ajuga=.
=BUGLOSSUM BARRELIERI.= _See_ =Anchusa Barrelieri=.
=BUGWORT.= _See_ =Cimicifuga=.
=BULBIFEROUS.= Bearing bulbs.
=BULBINE= (from _bolbos_, a bulb). ORD. _Liliaceæ_. A genus of rather
pretty hardy, or nearly hardy, herbaceous or bulbous plants, allied
to _Anthericum_. Flowers showy, fragrant; perianth with spreading
segments. Leaves somewhat fleshy, narrow. Stems short. They are all of
easy culture in a compost of sandy loam. The bulbous-rooted species
are increased by offsets, and the herbaceous sorts by suckers and
divisions. The only species which can be grown satisfactorily in
the open air is _B. annua._ All the others should be grown in the
greenhouse, but may be placed in the open during the summer months.
=B. alooides= (Aloe-like).* _fl._ yellow, disposed in a terminal
panicle. April. _l._ fleshy, tongue-shaped, lanceolate, flat on
both sides. _h._ 1ft. Cape of Good Hope, 1732. SYN. _Anthericum
alooides_. (B. M. 1317.)
=B. annua= (annual). _fl._ yellow; scape racemose. May, June. _l._
fleshy, subulate, rounded. _h._ 9in. Cape of Good Hope, 1731. An
annual species, the seeds of which should be sown in a gentle heat
during spring, and the seedlings may be transplanted to the open
when large enough to handle. SYN. _Anthericum annuum_. (B. M. 1451.)
=B. caulescens= (caulescent).* _fl._ yellow. March. _l._ fleshy,
rounded. Stem shrubby, erect, branched. _h._ 2ft. Cape of Good
Hope. 1702. A shrubby species, which should be propagated by
cuttings, placed under a hand glass. SYN. _B. frutescens_. (B. M.
816.)
=B. frutescens= (shrubby). Synonymous with _B. caulescens_.
=BULBOCODIUM= (from _bolbos_, a bulb, and _kodion_, wool; referring to
the woolly covering of the bulbs). ORD. _Liliaceæ_. TRIBE _Colchiceæ_.
A very pretty little bulbous plant, much resembling the _Crocus_,
from which it differs principally in having a superior ovary and
six stamens. It is amongst the earliest of spring-flowering plants,
the flowers preceding the foliage; and, like the majority of bulbs,
delights in rich sandy loam. In such positions, they multiply rapidly
from offsets. It is a good plan to take up the bulbs, divide, and
replant them every second year, selecting in autumn, and renewing the
soil or planting in new positions. Few plants prove more welcome in
the garden, in February, than _B. vernum_, either in beds, patches, or
masses.
=B. Aitchisoni= (Aitchison's). A synonym of _Merendera Aitchisoni_.
=B. Eichleri= (Eichler's). A synonym of _Merendera caucasica_.
=B. trigynum.= A synonym of _Merendera caucasica_.
[Illustration: FIG. 301. BULBOCODIUM VERNUM.]
=B. vernum= (spring).* _fl._ violet-purple, with a white spot on
the claw; long, tubular, funnel-shaped, two to three from each
bulb; preceding the appearance of the leaves. Very early spring.
_l._ usually three in number, broadly strap-shaped, concave, and
surrounded at the base by well-developed sheaths. Bulb black,
oblong. _h._ 4in. to 6in. Spain, 1649. See Fig. 301. There is a
variety with the leaves striped white, which is also desirable.
=BULBOPHYLLUM= (from _bulbos_, a bulb, and _phyllon_, a leaf; referring
to the leaves issuing from the apex of the pseudo-bulbs). SYNS.
_Anisopetalum_, _Bolbophyllum_, _Tri-brachium_. ORD. _Orchideæ_. Of
this rather large genus of orchids but few are worth cultivating except
as curiosities. Racemes long or spike-like, very rarely one-flowered or
sub-umbellate; sepals usually nearly equal and free; lip jointed to the
foot of the column. They are of easy culture when grown on small blocks
of wood with a little moss, and suspended in a warm part of the house;
the roots require a good supply of water. Propagated by dividing the
pseudo-bulbs.
The following comparative few of the aggregate number of species
already introduced are really all that are worth the cultivator's
attention; what the botanist often regards as being very pretty, &c.,
does not always appear such in the eyes of the grower.
=B. barbigerum= (bearded).* _fl._, sepals and petals
greenish-brown; lip covered with dark-coloured hair, and so loosely
attached at the base as to be moved with the slightest breath.
Sierra Leone, 1835. A curious dwarf-growing plant, with dark green
leaves and pseudo-bulbs. (B. R. 1942.)
=B. Beccarii= (Beccari's). _fl._ light brownish and painted with
violet; lip brown, with a violet hue, proceeding from a rhizome at
the base of the leaf (just below the small pseudo-bulb), and at
once turning downwards; racemes dense, cylindrical, nodding. _l._
three, 25in. long, 18in, across, very thick. Rhizome 20in. long.
Brazil, 1879. A remarkable and gigantic climbing species; the odour
of this plant is intolerably fœtid and the leaves are larger than
those of any other known orchid. This species requires plenty of
heat. (B. M. 6517.)
=B. Lobbi= (Lobb's).* _fl._ large; sepals and petals yellow, the
upper part spotted with purple; solitary, on radical scapes.
Summer. Java, 1845. (B. M. 4532.)
=B. maculatum= (spotted). _fl._ prettily spotted, _l._ long,
obtuse, bright green. India.
=B. reticulatum= (netted-leaved).* _fl._ in pairs, white, striped
inside with purple; lip spotted with the same colour. _l._ somewhat
heart-shaped, with the nerves of a deeper green than the rest of
the leaf, giving it a beautifully reticulated appearance. Brazil,
1866. Perhaps the handsomest of the genus. (B. M. 5605.)
=B. saltatorum= (dancing). _fl._ greenish-brown, lasting some time
in perfection. Winter. _h._ 6in. Sierra Leone, 1835. (B. R. 1970.)
=B. siamense= (Siamese).* _fl._ pale yellow, striped with purple;
lip yellow, streaked with purplish lines. A very pretty species,
closely allied to _B. Lobbi_, but with longer and stouter leaves.
Pseudo-bulbs ovate. Siam, 1867. Should be grown in a pot of peat
and sphagnum.
=BULBOSTYLES= (from _bolbos_, a bulb, and _stylos_, the style). ORD.
_Compositæ_. A. small genus of stove evergreen plants, now referred to
_Eupatorium_.
=BULBS.= A Bulb is formed upon or beneath the ground, and is a swollen
stock, consisting, in the first place, of a more or less fleshy disk,
which below gives rise to the roots; secondly, of more or less fleshy
coats, or scales, borne on the disk; thirdly, of a more or less central
shoot, equally borne by the disk, protected by the coats or scales
already mentioned, and formed of rudimentary leaves and flowers. In
some instances, small Bulbs, called Cloves, are formed at the base
of the scales of the original Bulb; these are destined to reproduce
the plant. Shallot and Garlic are good examples. Bulbs are, in fact,
storehouses, husbanding the strength and energy acquired by the plant
during one season, for the exigencies of the next. They are classified
under two sections--Scaly and Tunicated. In the former, the scales
of the Bulb are imbricated, as in the Lily; in the latter, they form
continuous coatings, one within the other, as in the Hyacinth, &c.
In several Lilies, young Bulbs are found growing in the axils of the
leaves, when they are known as Bulbils. Bulbs is also a popular term
given to Dutch Flower Roots, mostly arriving here in the autumn for
spring flowering. Crocus, Colchicum, Cyclamen, Gladiolus, and several
others, are not Bulbs, but Corms. The flowering season varies according
to the different sorts of Bulbs. The majority may be lifted and kept
tolerably dry during the resting period; but they wither and become
exhausted if not replanted at the proper time, thereby causing many
failures. Dutch Bulbs generally arrive in September, and the best
results are obtained from those potted or planted at once, although
some for succession may be kept in reserve up till the beginning of
November. The failure in cultivating imported Liliums and other Bulbs
may be often caused by their long-continued confinement in a dry
atmosphere, whereby their vitality is often almost lost. The roots
of some Bulbs are nearly always, more or less, in action, and these,
especially, should not be kept out of the ground for any length of
time.
=BULLACE.= _See_ =Prunus insititia=.
=BULLACE=, or =MUSCADINE=. _See_ =Vitis vulpina=.
=BULLATE.= Blistered or puckered.
=BULRUSH=, or =CLUB-RUSH=. _See_ =Typha=.