(PHASEOLUS VULGARIS).]
DWARF OR FRENCH KIDNEY BEANS (_Phaseolus vulgaris_). _Cultivation_:
This class (see Fig. 212) also requires a rich and deeply trenched
rather light soil. A very important point is to get the ground into a
good condition, by frequently forking it over; and, as the seeds are
not sown till the beginning of May, there is plenty of time for the
work. The finer the soil is, and the more it is aërated, the better
will it suit the crop. From the beginning of May till the end of June,
at intervals, draw out drills about 2ft. apart, and 3in. deep, and in
these place the Beans tolerably thick, as generally they are not all
certain to grow. As soon as up, carefully thin them, and slightly earth
up to prevent the wind blowing them about. They should not, however,
be earthed higher than the seed leaves, or they will probably rot off
in wet weather. Keep free from weeds, and maintain a sharp look out for
slugs. In dry weather, water occasionally, giving good drenchings, and
not mere sprinklings, which do more harm than good. A good mulching
of half-rotted manure is very beneficial, as it prevents evaporation
to a great extent, besides affording some amount of nourishment to
the plants. Great care must be taken to pick off the Beans as soon as
large enough for use, or they will exhaust the plants. Where seeds are
needed, a number of plants should be left for the purpose, and these
should be some of the best, to prevent deterioration, or loss of the
true variety.
_Forcing._ French Beans require more heat than can be obtained in
either a frame or an ordinary greenhouse; and, although easy enough to
grow in a structure suited to their requirements, yet, if such does
not exist, they are almost sure to fail. A good heat, from 60deg.
to 70deg., with abundance of moisture, is necessary for successful
results. Plenty of light is also most essential. A position such as
that of a cucumber house is generally a suitable one; but the plants
must not be placed under the cucumbers. Successional sowings in pots
or boxes must be made, from the end of August till March, to keep up
a supply. For soil, use good maiden loam, with a little well-rotted
manure added. Use 8in. pots, sowing five or six beans in each. The
first sowing should be placed in a frame and kept well watered,
bringing into heat in October; but the subsequent sowings should be
placed directly in the house. Keep the soil moist, and the plants free
from aphides and other insect pests, and give air at every favourable
opportunity. The plants should be as near the light as possible, and
kept from falling about by tying or placing small pieces of Birch wood
round them. In dull weather, it will be found that the blooms will
not set so freely as when the sun shines brightly; therefore, every
care should be taken to secure both heat and ventilation when sunshine
prevails. When the pots get full of roots, and the plants are bearing
fruit freely, a little liquid manure is of great assistance; at no
time must the plants get dry enough to flag. Allow plenty of room for
the full development of foliage, and maintain a minimum temperature of
60deg., with plenty of moisture.
_Sorts._ These are very numerous, among the best being Black Negro,
Canadian Wonder, Canterbury, Fulmer's Forcing, Golden Dun, Newington
Wonder, Osborn's Early Forcing, Sion House, and Sir Joseph Paxton.
RUNNERS OR CLIMBING KIDNEY BEANS (_Phaseolus multiflorus_).
_Cultivation_: Being tall growers, these need a greater space than the
Dwarf French varieties, and they also require support. Rich soil is
indispensable for them, and liberal supplies of water on light soils
and in dry weather. A good overhead syringing from time to time is also
advantageous. Trench and heavily manure a piece of ground in autumn,
leaving it in ridges for the winter. In March, level the ridges down,
and well work the ground, to render it friable and in good condition.
The plants being extremely tender, it is not safe to sow before the end
of April or the first week in May. It is preferable to sow in rows,
which should be from 6ft. to 12ft. apart, and crop the ground between
with other vegetables. Earth up and stake them as soon as ready, to
prevent injury from rough wind. A good plan, which may be adopted to
obtain early produce, is to raise the seeds in boxes in a cold frame,
getting them ready for planting out in the middle of May. Plant at the
same distances, and treat afterwards as recommended for those sown out
of doors.
If preferred, they can be grown on the ground without stakes. Under
this treatment, they must have their tops pinched off when about 18in.
high, continuing this pinching from time to time as necessary. If this
plan is adopted, the rows need only be 3ft. apart, the ground not
being otherwise cropped. In dry seasons and on light soils, there is
an advantage attached to this method, namely, that those on sticks are
liable to injury from drought, while the foliage of those pinched back
keeps the soil moist underneath.
[Illustration: FIG. 213. RUNNER OR CLIMBING KIDNEY BEAN (PHASEOLUS
MULTIFLORUS).]
Runner Beans may also be planted to cover arches or fences, and in
various places of a like description. See Fig. 213.
_Sorts._ Common Scarlet Runner, Champion, Painted Lady, and Giant
White. The first two are those generally grown.
=BEAN-TREE.= _See_ =Ceratonia Siliqua=.
=BEARBERRY=, and =BEAR'S GRAPE=. _See_ =Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi=.
=BEARD-TONGUE.= _See_ =Pentstemon=.
=BEARS BREECH.= _See_ =Acanthus=.
=BEAR'S FOOT.= _See_ =Helleborus fœtidus=.
=BEATONIA.= _See_ =Tigridia=.
=BEAUCARNEA= (a commemorative name). ORD. _Liliaceæ_. A small genus of
curious greenhouse plants, natives of Mexico. Leaves narrow, gracefully
depending. Stems slender, and woody, with a peculiar swollen, somewhat
napiform base. Mr. B. S. Williams recommends that these plants be
potted in rich fibrous loam and sand, with ample drainage, and,
during the growing season, liberally supplied with water. Propagated
by cuttings, when obtainable; but chiefly by seeds, which have to be
imported from their native country. Beaucarneas are principally grown
for the beauty of their foliage, and are grotesque, graceful, and
extremely curious in habit and form.
=B. glauca= (grey).* _l._ pendent, glaucous, 2ft. to 3ft. long.
Stem slender, the swollen base becoming woody with age.
=B. g. latifolia= (broad-leaved) differs from the type only in its
stouter and more robust stem and broader leaves.
=B. longifolia= (long-leaved).* _l._ 6ft. to 10ft. long, narrow,
pendent, dark green, forming a beautiful vase-like centre. _h._
10ft. Mexico, 1868. Very distinct. (G. C. 1877, vii., 493.)
=B. recurvata= (recurved-leaved).* _l._ very long, linear,
gracefully pendulous, bright green. Mexico, about 1845. This is an
excellent subject for open-air culture during the summer, as well
as for the conservatory. SYN. _Pincenictitia tuberculata_. (G. C.
1870, 1445.)
=B. r. rubra= (red). _l._ red at base.
=B. stricta= (upright). _l._ 3ft. or more long, less than 1in.
broad, very glaucous. Stem stout. Mexico, 1870.
=BEAUFORTIA= (commemorative of Mary, Duchess of Beaufort, a botanical
patroness). Including _Schizopleura_. ORD. _Myrtaceæ_. Elegant
free-flowering greenhouse Australian shrubs. Flowers scarlet; calyx
with a turbinate tube; stamens in bundles opposite the petals. Leaves
sessile, opposite or scattered. Beaufortias require a compost of peat,
leaf soil, and loam, lightened, if necessary, by the addition of sand.
Cuttings of half-ripened shoots root freely in sandy soil, under a
glass, with very little heat.
=B. decussata= (decussate). _fl._ scarlet; bundles of stamens
on very long claws; filaments radiating. May. _l._ opposite,
decussate, ovate, or oval, many-nerved. _h._ 3ft. to 10ft. New
Holland, 1803. (B. M. 1733.)
=B. purpurea= (purple).* _fl._ purplish-red, in dense globular
heads. _l._ three to five-nerved, erect or spreading,
ovate-lanceolate to lanceolate-linear. New Holland.
=B. sparsa= (few-leaved). _fl._ bright scarlet. _l._ many-nerved,
scattered, ovate-elliptical, obtuse. West Australia. SYN. _B.
splendens_. (P. F. G. xiii., 145.)
=B. splendens= (splendid). Synonymous with _B. sparsa_.
=BEAUMONTIA= (in honour of Mrs. Beaumont, formerly of Bretton Hall,
Yorkshire). ORD. _Apocynaceæ_. A very ornamental stove twiner,
remarkable for its handsome flowers. It succeeds best when planted
out in the borders of a temperate house, in rich lumpy loam and peat.
Propagated by cuttings, placed in sand, with bottom heat.
=B. grandiflora= (large-flowered).* _fl._, corolla large, white,
greenish outside near the base, and dark throat, with a short tube,
and a large campanulate five-lobed limb; corymbs axillary and
terminal, many-flowered. June. _l._ opposite, broad, oblong-ovate,
with a little point, tapering towards the base, smooth and shining
above, but rather downy beneath; young leaves and branches rusty.
Chittagong and Sylhet, 1820. (B. M. 3213.)
=BED.= A term usually applied to pieces of ground laid out in gardens
for sowing small seeds, or for the isolation and better protection of
small collections of plants in the reserve ground. The oblong is the
best shape for this purpose, about 4ft. or 5ft. wide, somewhat raised,
and having a narrow path on each side, so that the workman may attend
to the plants or seeds without having to tread on the bed. Any one part
of a flower-garden design, cut out in grass, or otherwise formed, is
also generally termed a Bed. When required to be planted for effect,
as in this case, the Bed should be proportionate in size to the plants
that are to be put in it, always planting the highest in the centre and
gradually sloping, with other sizes, to the edges, which should be the
lowest. Circular Beds are best with one centre plant; and oblong or
other shapes should have the height of the centre plants carried nearly
the whole length, not, however, placing them in too formal a manner.
=BEDDING-IN.= A method of seed-sowing, now almost obsolete, and
chiefly employed in nurseries. "In this method, the ground being dug
and formed by alleys into Beds, 4ft. or 5ft. wide, each alley being a
spade's width or more between Bed and Bed, and the earth being drawn
off the top of the Bed with a rake or spade, 1/2in. or 1in. deep into
the alleys, the seed is then sown all over the surface of the Bed;
which being done, the earth in the alleys is immediately cast over the
Bed, again covering the seeds the same depth, and the surface is raked
smooth" (Johnson). In the case of small seeds, a very light covering is
needed, and that only of very fine soil.
=BEDDING-OUT.= The temporary placing out of doors of greenhouse and
other tender plants during the summer months. It is considered by some
to be the showiest, most expensive, and most unnatural of any style.
The geometrical arrangement of gaudy colours is not at all times
satisfactory, and under the most favourable conditions the design
is rarely retained more than two or three months, say, from July to
September. The method is, however, so extensively adopted as to demand
due notice in this work. Bedding usually commences in May. An important
consideration is the proper preparation of the soil for the reception
of the plants. It will be found to materially assist the growth if
the soil is well dug over a fortnight before the plants are put in.
By this means, it will acquire a certain amount of solidity, a point
of great importance with fibrous-rooted plants that are subject to
injury from the fine roots not taking a firm hold of the soil. Having
decided upon the arrangement of the plants, proceed to work with the
planting. With round, oval, or, indeed, almost any shaped bed, begin
in the centre and work towards the edge; in borders, commence at the
back and finish with the front row. Plant with a trowel, disturbing
the balls as little as possible, and when in the holes press the soil
moderately firm. After the Bed is finished, give a good soaking of
water to settle the soil at the roots. Manure for Flower-beds should
always be perfectly rotten, such as that from a spent hotbed. When the
plants are thoroughly established, water must only be given if they
show signs of distress; and then a good soaking should be applied. A
careful hoeing of the surface after planting will be most beneficial,
leaving it smooth and tidy. A Dutch hoe will be the best to use.
Injudicious use of manure and water will only cause a foliaceous
growth. The proper treatment of the various Bedding Plants will be
found under their respective headings. For spring decoration, the
Beds may be filled with Dutch bulbs, and spring-flowering annuals and
perennials _ad infinitum_; or, after the plants are removed in autumn,
the Beds may be filled with evergreens plunged in pots, such as Aucuba,
Arbor vitæ, Euonymus, and various little Conifers, which have a bright
appearance through the winter, and can be removed at any time. With the
relative value, or advisability of adoption, of either or any system of
gardening, it scarcely comes within the province of this work to deal.
No hard-and-fast rules can be laid down as regards "style," and each
individual may follow his own taste and inclination.
[Illustration: FIG. 214. DESIGN FOR CARPET BEDDING.]
[Illustration: FIG. 215. DESIGN FOR CARPET BEDDING.]
_Carpet Bedding._ This mode of gardening, although not so generally
employed as it was some few years ago, has many admirers, and small
plots, geometrically arranged in multi-coloured beds on lawns, are
frequently seen. In our large public parks, the system is largely
adopted, and evidently proves very gratifying to the multitudes who
visit these places; but probably no system is more unnatural or
expensive, as such a large number of plants are necessary in order
to produce a desirable effect. The illustrations (Figs. 214 and 215)
represent two designs for Carpet Beds. The numbers placed in the
various compartments indicate the way the different colours should be
arranged, repeats being marked by the same cypher. A very varied and
large selection of plants can be used for Carpet Bedding, some of which
are quite hardy, such as _Herniaria glabra_ and _Veronica repens_, two
of the best dwarf green plants; _Sempervivum californicum_, _Sedum
lydium_, _S. glaucum_, _Antennaria tomentosa_, &c. These may be
planted early in the season, with Golden Feather, and are especially
valuable, as they are generally employed to a great extent. Other
plants, not quite so hardy, are _Mentha Pulegium gibraltarica_ and
_Echeveria secunda glauca_, both of which are extensively used; while
the tenderest subjects are Alternantheras of various kinds, _Coleus
Verschaffeltii_ and _Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum_. These
latter should not be planted till the first or second week in June.
As the plants are usually small, and require to be planted thickly,
the work is best accomplished with the fingers, pressing the soil
moderately firm. First of all, work out the design, and plant the
leading lines; afterwards fill in the "panels."
[Illustration: FIG. 216. DESIGN FOR BEDDING.]
_Sub-Tropical Bedding._ This term is applied to the arrangement of
tropical plants in Beds or groups outside for the summer months, and
if discriminately adopted a very attractive and unique display may be
made, depending greatly upon position, and mainly upon the material at
command. If a sheltered and partially shady situation is enjoyed, a
grand effect may be produced by the grouping of tree and other large
ferns with palms, Cannas, Aralias, Dracænas, &c., avoiding, of course,
formal arrangement, and yet, when finished, a symmetrical appearance
should be produced. In more open positions, palms, Castor Oil Plants,
Cannas, _Humea elegans_, Aralias, Phormiums, Wigandias, Nicotianas,
&c., may be employed, the result being, if properly arranged, most
gratifying. Sub-Tropical Bedding should not be done till the middle or
end of June, and the Beds should be well dug and freely manured for
those that are to be planted out.
[Illustration: FIG 217. DESIGN FOR BEDDING.]
Fig. 216 represents a Border or long piece of ground, which may be
either marked out permanently with Box edging, dwarf-growing silver or
golden leaved plants, tiles, stones, or pebbles, and filled in with
silver sand or bright-coloured stones or gravel; or the lines may be
widened out into walks. The whole of the small circles not numbered
are intended for specimen foliage and other plants, such as Fuchsias,
Yuccas, Aloes, Cannas, Solanums, variegated or plain Reeds, Grasses,
Maize (_Zea_), &c. No. 1, tall plants of _Echeveria metallica_, edged
with _E. glauca_; 2, 2, yellow or orange Calceolaria; 3, 3, Mrs.
Leavers Pelargonium; 4, 4, Triomphe de Stella ditto; 5, 5, purple or
blue Verbena; 6, 6, white ditto. The narrow border round the side may
then be filled in with Golden-feather Pyrethrum, blue Lobelia, or
_Alternanthera amabilis_. This same plan may also be treated in quite a
different manner, according to the taste of those adopting it, or the
stock of plants at command.
[Illustration: FIG. 218. DESIGN FOR BEDDING OR CARPET BEDDING.]
Fig. 217 illustrates a design admirably adapted for a rosery or small
flower garden. Its only fault is the number of sharp angles at the
corners of some of the Beds; but this can be counteracted by the
predominance of curved lines. It is easily formed, and the effect is
good if furnished in the following manner: The circle in the centre,
1, _Centaurea ragusina compacta_, edged with a double line of _Coleus
Verschaffeltii_; the four figures 2, 2, 2, 2, scarlet Pelargoniums,
such as Vesuvius, Bonfire, Triomphe de Stella, or others; 3, 3, Mrs.
Pollock, golden-zoned Pelargoniums, edged with _Alternanthera amœna_;
4, 4, Lady Cullum, ditto, ditto, edged with ditto; 5, 5, _Lobelia
speciosa_, Imperial Dwarf Ageratum, or Purple King Verbena; 6, 6, white
Verbena or white Ivy-leaved Pelargonium.
[Illustration: FIG. 219. ARRANGEMENT OF NURSERY FOR ROSE TREES AND
SHRUBS.]
[Illustration: FIG. 220. ARRANGEMENT OF NURSERY FOR ROSE TREES AND
SHRUBS.]
The group of Beds illustrated in Fig. 218 is effective on grass or
gravel. If on the latter, the lines should be defined with Box, Golden
Thyme, Cerastium, or Santolinas. The design is pretty on level, but is
still more effective on sloping ground; in the latter case, it should
rise from the straight walk (dotted line). Thus each Bed may be seen
to the best advantage, and the group may be extended to any length.
The circular Beds should be planted with two distinct colours, such
as good pink and scarlet Pelargoniums of similar habits of growth,
placing the colours in alternate Beds. The Beds, _a_, _a_, _a_, Flower
of Spring, or another silver-leaved Pelargonium; _b_, _b_, _b_, Purple
King Verbena, or Imperial Dwarf Ageratum; _c_, _c_, White Perfection
Verbena, and silver-leaved or white-flowered Ivy-leaved Pelargonium;
_d_, _d_, _Alternanthera magnifica_; _e_, _e_, Blue Lobelia. The
long border, _Alternanthera paronychioides_, edged with _Antennaria
tomentosa_; or _Iresine Lindenii_, edged with Pyrethrum, Golden Fleece
or Crystal Palace Gem Pelargonium. The two sides may also be planted
alike. The colours are reversed above to produce a greater variety and
a more striking effect. This design is also well adapted for Carpet
Bedding.
[Illustration: BED A.
BED B.
BED C.
BED D.
BED E.
BED F.
BED G.
BED H.
FIG. 221. BEDDING-OUT DESIGNS.]
_Nursery Bed._ This is merely a reserve ground or nursery for a large
stock of plants of various sorts, such as Roses, &c. One of the first
requirements is an easy access to the individual plants, and with the
least possible waste of space. This may be obtained by arranging the
Beds in regular geometric figures, as shown in Figs. 219 and 220, and,
by exercising a little care and taste, the whole can be so contrived as
to present an ornamental appearance.
We are indebted to Messrs. Cannell and Sons for the diagrams of
Bedding-out designs shown at Fig. 221, which may be made very effective:
Bed A. This Bed may be planted with the following: Summer-flowering: 1,
Gain's Yellow Calceolaria or Ageratum Lady Jane; 2, Geranium Vesuvius
or another scarlet; 3 and 4, Viola Blue-bell or Purple King Verbena;
5, edged with _Gnaphalium lanatum_, or _Antennaria tomentosa_, white
foliaged plants. Summer Foliage: 1, _Coleus Verschaffeltii_; 2,
_Centaurea ragusina compacta_; 3 and 4, Mrs. Pollock Geranium; 5, band
of any of the Echeverias, or _Kleinia repens_.
Bed B. Plants mentioned for A will do for this.
Bed C. This is really intended for a Carpet Bed. 1, _Alternanthera
amabilis_, with a narrow line of _amœna_ for the edge; 2, _Mentha_,
or _Herniaria glabra_; 3, band of _Mesembryanthemum cordifolium
variegatum_. Flowering: 1, Any kind of Scarlet Geranium; 2,
Golden-leaved ditto; 3, Blue Lobelia (edge). Spring: 1, White Arabis;
2, _Myosotis dissitiflora_; 3, Golden Feather.
Bed D. Summer: 1, Pink Geranium; 2, _Iresine Lindenii_; 3,
Golden Feather. Carpet: 1, _Alternanthera versicolor grandis_;
2, _Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum_; 3, _Alternanthera
magnifica_, edged with _Sempervivum montanum_.
Bed E. 1, Scarlet Geranium; 2, Pink ditto; 3, _Lobelia speciosa_; or,
1, _Alternanthera amœna_; 2, _Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum_;
3, _Echeveria secunda glauca_.
Bed F. 1, _Dracæna_, _Chamæpeuce_, or any other graceful foliage plant
for the centre; 2 and 4, _Alternanthera amabilis_, the divided lines,
6, being filled with Mentha or Echeverias; 3 and 5, _Alternanthera
amœna_; and the outer edge, 7, with _Sempervivum californicum_.
This bed would look well if planted with any of the above-mentioned
spring flowers. Spring: Bed might be raised to a mound, and lined
out with hardy Sedums, or Sempervivums, placing a larger growing one
in the centre; and 2, 3, 4, and 5 divisions may be filled with any
spring-flowering dwarf-growing plants.
Bed G. 1, Small plant of Yucca; 2, _Coleus Verschaffeltii_; 3, _Alyssum
variegatum_; 4, _Lobelia pumila magnifica_.
Bed H. 1, Golden Feather; Mesembryanthemum; 3, Mentha; 4,
_Alternanthera amabilis_; or 1, _Coleus Verschaffeltii_; 2, _Centaurea
ragusina_; 3, Calceolaria Golden Gem; 4, Ageratum Lady Jane.
=BEDDING PLANTS.= This term applies to many half-hardy subjects
which are planted out in beds for summer display, such as Ageratums,
Calceolarias, Geraniums, Heliotropes, Lobelias, Verbenas, &c., all of
which will be treated under their respective headings. They are mostly
soft-wooded plants and are easily cultivated with proper means, in
spring and autumn.
=BEDFORDIA= (named in honour of a former Duke of Bedford). ORD.
_Compositæ_. Greenhouse evergreen shrubs, allied to _Cacalia_. They
thrive in a mixture of sand, peat, loam, and brick rubbish, in equal
proportions. Propagated by cuttings, which should be dried a little
before inserting them in rough, sandy soil.
=B. salicina= (willow-like). _fl.-heads_ yellow, axillary and
solitary, or few together. April. _l._ alternate, lanceolate,
linear, glossy above, covered with white tomentum underneath. _h._
3ft. Victoria and Tasmania, 1820. SYN. _Cacalia salicina_. (B. R.
923.)
=BEDSTRAW.= _See_ =Galium=.
=BEECH.= _See_ =Fagus=.
=BEES.= _See_ =Honey Bees=, =Humble Bees=, and =Wasps=.
=BEET= (_Beta_, which _see_). The present varieties of Beetroot are
the offspring of _Beta vulgaris_, a plant of biennial duration, and a
native of the sea coasts of Southern Europe. It was cultivated in this
country about 1656, but was probably long previously introduced by the
ancient Romans. Beetroot is largely used as salad, more extensively on
the Continent than with us, also pickled; medium sized, deeply coloured
roots being the chief desideratum. Some varieties are largely grown for
their highly-coloured foliage, being planted in bedding-out designs,
and generally proving extremely effective.