[Illustration: FIG. 194. AUBRIETIA PURPUREA.]

=A. d. Bouganvillei= (Bouganville's).* _fl._ light violet purple,

with very even imbricated petals. Habit very dwarf and compact,

with short peduncles. A pretty form.

=A. d. Campbelli= (Campbell's).* Larger deep violet blue flowers,

and of far more vigorous constitution than the typical form.

_Grandiflora_ comes very near this. SYN. _A. Hendersonii_.

=A. d. Eyrei= (Eyre's).* A very fine variety, with a free branching

habit, and large flowers of a rich violet-purple colour, rather

longer than broad. _A. olympica_ is very near, if not identical

with this.

=A. d. græca= (Grecian).* _fl._ light purple. _h._ 4in. Greece,

1872. One of the best and largest flowered forms; very vigorous

grower, with neat compact habit. A variety of this, named

_superba_, has rather deeper-coloured flowers, produced over a very

extended period. (R. G. 697.)

=A. d. purpurea= (purple).* Larger flowers and more erect habit

than the type. _l._ broader, with two to five teeth. Stems more

leafy. There is a variegated form, which is very pleasing and

effective, useful for carpeting or edging small beds. See Fig. 194.

=A. d. violacea= (violet).* This is a hybrid form, even finer than

_Campbelli_, with large deep violet-purple flowers, fading to

reddish-violet, and is more effective than any of the others.

=A. Hendersonii= (Henderson's). A synonym of _A. d. Campbelli_.

=AUCUBA= (the Japanese name of the shrub). ORD. _Cornaceæ_. A genus

of hardy evergreen shrubs, thriving better than any other in the

smoky atmosphere of dense cities. They grow in ordinary well-drained

garden soil, and require no special culture. If grown in pots, they

should be planted firmly in rather sandy yellow loam, with plenty of

drainage. They should not be allowed too large pots, or an unfruitful

growth is likely to result. During the growing season, an abundance

of water is needed, which must be lessened when the plants are fully

developed. If cultivated in the greenhouse or conservatory, they should

be plunged out of doors during summer. To insure a good supply of

the very ornamental berries, which are produced on the female plant,

careful fertilising is necessary. The time for applying the pollen is

when the pistil exudes a slightly gummy substance, and otherwise shows

signs of maturity. When it happens, as is sometimes the case, that the

male blooms are open and the pollen mature before the female blooms

are ready, the pollen should be collected on a dry camel-hair pencil,

transferred to a piece of glass, and covered over by another piece,

both of which must also be dry. It may be applied afterwards when

wanted, as it retains its power for some weeks. Propagated by cuttings,

inserted in any light sandy soil, with or without a covering, in spring

or autumn; or readily increased from seeds, sown as soon as ripe.

=A. himalaica= (Himalayan).* _l._ lanceolate, or lanceolate

acuminate; branches of the panicle very pilose. Berries spherical,

not oblong. Himalaya. (F. d. S. 12, 1271.)

=A. japonica= (Japanese).* _l._ opposite, petiolate, broad,

ovate-lanceolate, acuminated, toothed, leathery, glabrous, shining,

pale green, beautifully spotted with yellow, having the midrib

rather prominent, the rest of the leaf reticulately veined. _h._

6ft. to 10ft. Japan, 1783. The numerous varieties, both of the male

and female forms, among which will be found many of great beauty,

all differ, more or less, in the variegation of their leaves.

They are in very general cultivation, and nearly every nurseryman

has an assortment. Among the best of them are the following:

_albo-variegata_, _aurea_, _bicolor_, _latimaculata_, _limbata_,

_longifolia_, _macrophylla_, _ovata_, _pygmæa_, and _pygmæa

sulphurea_.

=AUDOUINIA= (in honour of V. Audouin, a profound entomologist). ORD.

_Bruniaceæ_. An ornamental greenhouse evergreen shrub, thriving in a

mixture of peat and sandy loam. Propagated by cuttings of half-ripened

wood, inserted in sand, under a bell glass, in gentle heat.

=A. capitata= (headed). _fl._ purple, crowded into oblong,

spike-like, terminal heads. May. _l._ spirally inserted, a little

keeled. Branches erect. _h._ 1ft. to 2ft. Cape of Good Hope, 1790.

=AULACOSPERMUM.= A synonym of =Pleurospermum= (which _see_).

=AULAX= (from _aulax_, a furrow; the under surface of the leaves of

the original species being furrowed). ORD. _Proteaceæ_. Greenhouse

evergreen shrubs, from the Cape of Good Hope, thriving best in a

compost of fibrous loam, leaf soil, and sharp sand, with thorough

drainage. Ripened cuttings, taken off at a joint, and inserted in pots

of sandy soil, will root readily under a hand glass, in a cool house.

=A. pinifolia= (Pine-leaved). _fl._ yellow, racemose. July. _l._

filiform, channelled. _h._ 2ft. 1780.

=A. umbellata= (umbelled). _fl._ yellow. June. _l._ flat,

spathulate*-linear. _h._ 2ft. 1774. (B. R. 12, 1015.)

=AURANTIACEÆ.= An order of trees or shrubs, including the Orange and

Lemon trees. Flowers fragrant. Fruit fleshy, edible. Leaves alternate,

articulated above the stem, filled with transparent oil cysts, giving

them a dotted appearance. Well-known genera are _Citrus_ and _Limonia_.

=AURICULA= (_Primula Auricula_). This favourite spring flower (see Fig.

195) was, at one time, almost universally cultivated, but has of late

years fallen into much neglect; it is now, however, happily regaining

enthusiastic admirers. Although its culture is not nearly so difficult

as is generally understood, a few special items of treatment are

nevertheless necessary to grow it successfully.

[Illustration: FIG. 195. A VARIETY OF PRIMULA AURICULA.]

_Frames_ for the reception of Auriculas should be prepared, with a good

bottom drainage, and an inside staging, similar to the back stage of

a lean-to greenhouse, arranged as near the glass as possible. If the

frames are about 4ft. wide, they will be very convenient; 1ft. deep in

the front, and about 3ft. at the back. This will allow for a good stage

arrangement. Of course, it is not necessary to construct an expensive

staging, as common boards can be laid upon pots of various heights, the

same results being practically secured. These frames should face north

from May to October, and south in winter, during which latter time it

will be necessary to well cover the sides with straw or brake. When

frosty, the lights must also be mated; but, unless there is absolute

fear of frost, the glass should not be covered, as the more light the

plants receive the better. On all suitable occasions, both during

summer and winter, air must be freely admitted, and a good look-out

kept during showery weather; hence it may be necessary to tilt the

lights with blocks rather than remove them entirely. The latter plan

should be adopted whenever practicable, especially during early spring,

and after they are well established in their fresh pots in summer.

This will greatly assist to ripen the crown, and produce hard, stout

foliage, which will endure the winter much better than if grown with

less air. Many cultivators prefer small span or lean-to houses to

frames; and it must be admitted that these are better, more convenient,

and in every way more beneficial. Simple, inexpensive structures, no

higher than is absolutely necessary for convenience, with top and side

ventilation, will meet all requirements; and if a 2in. hot-water pipe

is arranged next the eaves inside, it will be a decided advantage

during very severe weather.

_Soil._ The best compost that can be prepared for Auriculas is as

follows: Four parts good fibrous loam, one part well-rotted cow manure,

one part good leaf soil, and one part coarse river or silver sand,

with a little charcoal or pounded oyster-shells added. Carefully mix

the whole together before using. The loam should be stored about

twelve months previous to being used, and it should be selected from

districts with a fine atmosphere; the turf should be cut about 3in.

thick. Cow manure that has lain for a year or so, and been subjected to

sharp frosts, is most suitable, as insect life, which it very probably

contains, is thereby destroyed, and the whole materially sweetened.

_Potting._ This operation requires to be carefully done as soon after

flowering as possible, unless it is desired to save seed, when it

must be deferred until the seed is ripened. May and June are the best

months for general potting, and whatever the size of the pots used,

they should be carefully and thoroughly drained. After a good layer

of potsherds, place some charcoal, leaf mould, or spent hops. Many

good growers use the last very advantageously. For good flowering

plants, 48-sized pots are used, many cultivators preferring glazed

pots to the unglazed; but such are not absolutely necessary to ensure

success. Before repotting, remove most of the old soil, and with a

sharp knife cut off any bruised or cankered portion of roots; the stout

tap-root may also be cut away if devoid of fresh rootlets. Do not pot

very firmly. Remove the plants to their summer quarters, withholding

water for a few days, and keep the frames close. About a week after

potting, water may be advantageously given, the plants will then soon

resume root-action, and air may be admitted afterwards on all suitable

occasions. The collar or neck of the plant must be left well above the

surface of the soil.

_Watering_ is a point that requires careful attention, as neglect

in this matter will result in failure. During the growing season,

Auriculas require an abundance of water; in fact, they must never be

allowed to get dry. In the winter, they must only be watered when

they are really dry, especially during a severe season. Care must be

taken to avoid watering the leaves, particularly in early spring, as

this tends to spoil the effect of the charming farinose foliage. Above

all, water must not be allowed to stand in the heart of the plant, as

such will inevitably cause incipient decay. Hence it is necessary to

keep a sharp lookout for drippings from the glass, and to maintain

tightly-glazed frames. On all occasions, decaying leaves must be

removed, and especially during winter.

_Top-dressing._ About the middle or end of February, when the plants

commence new growth, the surface soil should be removed about an inch

or so deep, and the pots re-filled with a rich compost made up of the

following: Two parts of turfy loam, one of rotten cow or hen manure,

and one of leaf soil; if a little Standen's Manure is added, the

compost will be improved. After this top-dressing, the plants may be

watered freely.

_Propagation by Offsets._ When top-dressing, any offsets with roots

should be removed, and as soon after as possible the remaining ones

should be taken off, as it is much more desirable to do so early than

later on, when repotting; for, when making the first growth, they are

the more likely to root better, and stand a greater chance of making

good plants before the season is over. Fill well-drained 3in. pots with

sandy soil, and arrange about four offsets round the sides; place under

a bell glass, or in a close handlight, watering very sparingly so as to

prevent them damping off. They will soon establish themselves, after

which air may be admitted, and the plants may ultimately be potted off

singly. To induce choice varieties to make offsets, the top of the old

plant should be removed and treated like the others, when, as a rule,

several shoots will be produced, which in due time may be removed. By

this means, a nice stock of the rarer kinds may be obtained; whereas,

if such a course were not adopted, the rate of increase would be

extremely slow.

_Flowering._ During the flowering period, watering, as already stated,

must be carefully attended to, for if the plants are allowed to get

dry, the flowers will quickly shrivel. They must also be kept well

shaded from sunshine, which quickly destroys the delicate blossoms.

As the trusses are developing, particular attention must be given to

night protection. It is, perhaps, better to cover every night than to

run the risk of exposing the unexpanded flowers to frost, as the effect

is very prejudicial; in fact, if subject to frost, smooth even flowers

may not be expected.

_Seed Saving and Sowing._ The only way to obtain new varieties is by

seed; hence the value of careful seed-saving will be apparent. Severe

discrimination must be exercised in the selection of parents, and

the flowers must be very carefully crossed. The anthers should be

removed from the pistillate parent, if possible, before expansion,

so as to prevent any possibility of self-fertilisation; and, when

the stigma is ready, the pollen must be conveyed by means of a small

camel's-hair brush, care being taken not to mistake the brushes used

in different classes. It has been observed in Auriculas that the

issue from crossbred seed favours the pollen more than the pistillate

parent; hence the necessity of selecting good pollen parents. It is

best to confine hybridisation to separate classes--_i.e._, cross a

Self with a Self, and a Green-edged variety with another of the same

class. The importance of selecting the best in each class scarcely

needs suggestion, having regard to constitution as well as the quality

of the flowers. The seed should be sown as soon as ripe, or early in

March, in well-drained pots, filled with sandy soil, which must be well

watered previous to sowing. When this operation is completed, the seed

must be lightly covered with coarse sand, a sheet of glass placed over

the pot, and the latter stood in the hand glass, where the offsets are

rooted. Some of the seedlings will appear in a month, but the bulk

from that sown when ripe will not be seen until the following spring;

while others will germinate even during the ensuing summer. The late

comers should be particularly cared for, as they frequently produce

the best varieties. When the seedlings are large enough, they must be

pricked off in pots of sandy soil; and, when well established, potted

off singly into small thumb pots, and afterwards encouraged as judgment

suggests. Some growers allow the seedlings to remain in the store

pots till they flower, when the best are kept, and those not required

disposed of.

_Insect Pests._ Green fly are often very troublesome, and should be

exterminated as speedily as possible, by tobacco fumigation, or by

dipping the plants in a solution of Gishurst's Compound, or carefully

prepared Fir-tree Oil, all of which are effectual. Many authorities

denounce fumigation, while others advocate it. The roots are also

attacked by a mealy louse, named _Trama auriculæ_, which clusters about

the roots and collar of the plants, sucking nutriment therefrom; and

although, provided they do not attack the collar, they have no greatly

prejudicial effect on the plant, yet it is desirable to exterminate

them. The only effectual way of accomplishing this is to remove all

soil, and thoroughly cleanse the roots and collar in a solution of soft

soap, with a little Fir-tree Oil added. Of course, this is most easily

managed when repotting; and, unless the plants are very badly infested,

it would not be advisable to run the risk of root washing later in the

year.

_Classes._ Auriculas are now arranged in five classes, four of which

constitute what are known as "show or stage Auriculas," while the

other is known by the name of "Alpines." Each class is characterised

by special points of distinction, which, in the opinion of the strict

"florists" school, it is of the utmost importance to observe; and as

there is room for systematists in this, as well as in any other branch

of floriculture, we will follow the arrangement usually adopted, and

describe the distinguishing features of, and enumerate some of the best

varieties in, each class, with their raisers' names attached:

=Green-edged.= Outer edge green, or but sparingly dusted with

powder; next, a zone of colour known as the body colour, which

varies, the darkest being most esteemed; both edges of this zone

should be even, especially the inner one, but there are few flowers

perfect in this respect. Next to the body-colour is the paste,

which occupies the space between the inner circle of the latter

and the throat, this should be pure and dense, with a distinctly

circular outline at the throat; the throat and tube should be

bright yellow. Of course, this ideal standard has not yet been

reached, as there are supposed defects in all or some sections of

the flowers at present known. _Leading Varieties_: ADMIRAL NAPIER

(Campbell), ALDERMAN WISBEY (Headley), APOLLO (Beeston), CHAMPION

(Page), COLONEL TAYLOR (Leigh), DUKE OF WELLINGTON (Dickson),

FREEDOM (Booth), GENERAL NEILL (Traill), HIGHLAND BOY (Pollitt),

IMPERATOR (Litton), LADY ANN WILBRAHAM (Oliver), LORD PALMERSTON

(Campbell), LOVELY ANN (Oliver), LYCURGUS (Smith), PRINCE OF GREENS

(Traill), PRINCE OF WALES (Ashton).

=Grey-edged.= Edge heavily dusted with powder, so as almost

to hide the normal green colour; other points same as the

Green-edged varieties. _Leading varieties_: ALEXANDER MEIKLEJOHN

(Kay), CHAS. E. BROWN (Headley), COMPLETE (Sykes), CONQUEROR OF

EUROPE (Waterhouse), DR. HORNER (Read), F. D. HORNER (Simonite),

GENERAL BOLIVAR (Smith), GEORGE LEVICK (Walker), GEORGE

LIGHTBODY (Headley), JOHN WATERSTON (Cunningham), LANCASHIRE

HERO (Lancashire), RICHARD HEADLEY (Lightbody), ROBERT TRAILL

(Lightbody).

=White-edged.= Edge so heavily dusted with farina as to completely

hide the green and give it a white appearance; the powder

frequently as dense as on the paste portion; other points like

the first. _Leading varieties_: ACME (Read), ANNE SMITH (Smith),

ARABELLA (Headley), BEAUTY (Traill), BRIGHT VENUS (Lee), CATHERINA

(Summerscales), CONSERVATIVE (Douglas), COUNTESS OF WILTON

(Cheetham), EARL GROSVENOR (Lee), FAVORITE (Taylor), FRANK SIMONITE

(Simonite), GLORY (Taylor), JOHN SIMONITE (Walker), NE PLUS

ULTRA (Smith), REGULAR (Ashworth), SMILING BEAUTY (Heap), SYLVIA

(Douglas), TRUE BRITON (Hepworth).

=Selfs.= Tube bright yellow, and circular at the top; paste

dense, pure, with an even edge; all the rest of the flower of one

colour, without shades or edging; any colour holds good. _Leading

varieties_: APOLLO (Hay), BLACKBIRD (Spalding), C. J. PERRY

(Turner), DUKE OF ARGYLE (Campbell), FORMOSA (Smith), GARIBALDI

(Pohlman), HELEN LANCASTER (Pohlman), LORD OF LORNE (Campbell),

MAZINNA (Pohlman), METEOR FLAG (Lightbody), METROPOLITAN

(Spalding), MRS. DOUGLAS (Simonite), MRS. STURROCK (Martin),

OTHELLO (Netherwood), PIZARRO (Campbell), TOPSY (Kaye).

=Alpines.= Centre golden yellow, or white, and destitute of powder;

body colour various; edge one-coloured, shading off paler towards

the margin. These are much hardier than any of the other classes,

and will do well outside in most places. _Leading varieties_: A. F.

BARRON (Turner), BEATRICE (Turner), BLACK PRINCE (Turner), BRONZE

QUEEN (Turner), COLONEL SCOTT (Turner), DIADEM (Gorton), DUCHESS

OF CONNAUGHT (Turner), EVENING STAR (Turner), GEORGE LIGHTBODY

(Turner), JOHN LEECH (Turner), MRS. BALL (Turner), MRS. DODWELL

(Turner), MRS. LLEWELLYN (Turner), MRS. MEIKLEJOHN (Meiklejohn),

MRS. THOMSON (Turner), QUEEN VICTORIA (Turner), RUBENS (Turner),

SAILOR PRINCE (Turner), SELINA (Turner), SPANGLE (Turner), SYDNEY

(Turner), TRIUMPHANT (Turner).

=AURICULATE.= Having ear-like appendages.

=AUSTRIAN ROSE.= _See_ =Rosa lutea=.

=AVENA= (derivation obscure). The Oat. ORD. _Gramineæ_. A genus of

grasses with loose panicles and compressed spikelets. Of agricultural

importance only, with the following exception, which is an annual of

easy culture in ordinary garden soil. Propagated by seeds, sown in

spring or autumn.

=A. sterilis= (barren). The Animated Oat. _fl._ in drooping

panicles of large spikelets. _h._ 1-1/2ft. to 2ft. Barbary, 1640.

An elegant plant.

=AVENS.= _See_ =Geum=.

=AVENUES.= In forming an Avenue, the plan must neither be tortuous nor

of a "tedious sameness," but a gradually winding line should, above

all, be obtained, which must in no way interfere with the view from

the house. About 12ft. is the width usually allowed for the road, but

this depends upon individual taste or idea--this remark applies to

planting in double rows, the trees forming a series of triangles, or

in single rows. The distance across the road from one row of trees

to those opposite should be at least 24ft. The Lime is extensively

used for Avenues on account of its regular growth and the shade it

affords. The Cedar of Lebanon is one of the best and most suitable

evergreens. The Dutch Elm is used because of its rapid growth, and

forms one of the best deciduous trees for this purpose. The well-known

Horse Chestnut, in sheltered spots, is very ornamental, as is also the

Spanish Chestnut; the latter spreads rapidly. Where immediate effect

is required, nothing gives more satisfaction than the White Poplar; it

grows in a wet soil better than anything else. Deodars, Araucarias,

Douglas Pine, the Mexican, Chinese, and Japanese Cypresses, and many

others, are eminently suited for Avenue planting. Shrubs and herbaceous

plants should be introduced between the trees, and so remove any

bareness that may occur. _Diervilla rosea_, and its variegated form,

_Aucubas_, _Rhododendrons_, _Hypericums_, and many others, could be

mentioned to serve this purpose. A moderately good soil will be found

to answer generally.

=AVERRHOA= (in honour of Averrhoes, of Cordova, a celebrated Arabian

physician, who resided in Spain during the domination of the Moors,

about the middle of the twelfth century; he translated Aristotle into

Arabic). ORD. _Geraniaceæ_. Ornamental stove trees, thriving in loam

and peat. Half-ripened cuttings will strike in sand, under a hand

glass, about April, with bottom heat. The leaves of the first-named

species are irritable to the touch.

[Illustration: FIG. 196 AZALEA BALSAMINÆFLORA.]

=A. Bilimbi= (Bilimbi-tree). _fl._ reddish purple, disposed in

racemes, rising from the trunk. May. _fr._ oblong, somewhat

resembling a small cucumber, with a thin, smooth, green rind,

filled with a grateful acid juice, and the substance and seeds not

unlike that of a cucumber. _l._ alternate, with from five to ten

pairs of ovate-lanceolate, entire, smooth leaflets on short stalks.

_h._ 8ft. to 15ft. Native country unknown, 1791. (B. F. S. 117.)

=A. Carambola.= Carambola-tree. _fl._ red, scattered, disposed

in short racemes, usually rising from the smaller branches, but

sometimes from the larger ones, and even the trunk. _fr._ the

size of a hen's egg, acutely five-cornered, with a thin, yellow

rind, and a clear watery pulp. _l._ alternate, with about four to

five pairs of ovate, acuminated, entire, stalked leaflets, the

outer ones largest. _h._ 14ft. to 20ft. 1793. This, as well as the

first-named species, is cultivated throughout the hotter parts of

India, but where it occurs truly wild is not known.

=AVOCADO PEAR.= _See_ =Persea gratissima=.

=AWL-SHAPED.= Narrow-pointed, resembling an awl.

=AWLWORT.= _See_ =Subularia=.

=AXIL.= Literally the armpit; in plants applied to the angle formed by

union of the leaf and stem.

=AXILLARIA.= _See_ =Polygonatum=.

=AXILLARY.= Growing in the axil of anything.

=AYRSHIRE ROSE.= _See_ =Rosa repens capreolata=.

=AZALEA= (from _azaleos_, dry, arid; in allusion to the habitat of

the plant). ORD. _Ericaceæ_. A genus of very popular and beautiful

hardy or greenhouse plants. The species enumerated were included

under _Rhododendron_ by Don, Loudon, and others, contrary to the

classification of Linnæus, but the distinctive characters are not

consistent. In this genus, the stamens are usually five, but in

_Rhododendron_ ten is the typical number.

The Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening, Division 1; A to Car. A Practical and Scientific Encyclopædia of Horticulture · 第 42 / 72 段