PRESENTATION AT THE PALACE OF BANG-KOK--DESCRIPTION--ROYAL
ELEPHANT--WHITE ELEPHANTS--KING OF SIAM--GREAT TEMPLE OF
GUATAMA--CITY OF BANG-KOK--TEMPLE OF WAT-CHAN-TONG, AND FIGURE OF
BUDHA--BANYAN TREE--FIRE-FEEDERS--MISSIONARIES.
[Sidenote: PRESENTATION AT THE PALACE.]
On Monday, the eighteenth, arrangements having been previously made,
three large boats were sent by the praklang, to convey us to the
palace, for the purpose of being presented to his majesty. On the
previous evening, the second praklang, or the phaya-phiphat kossa,
with a long train of attendants, came to visit us, with the ostensible
object of talking farther respecting certain articles, which the
praklang wished to have altered in the treaty. After a few minutes’
conversation upon this subject, the audience of the king was spoken
of, and he said that certain ceremonies, according to court etiquette,
must be observed on our visit. I replied, that every proper respect
would, of course, be shown to his majesty; but that nothing mean or
servile must be expected. He then said, on our entrance into the hall
of audience, on passing the screen, three bows were expected in the
European style; that, on sitting down, in the Asiatic style, (as no
chairs are there ever used,) our feet must be placed behind us, that
three bows were then to be made, by uniting the hands and touching the
forehead, and lowering them to the breast. Seeing nothing unreasonable
or degrading in this formality, it was agreed to, excepting that we
refused to bow the head, like the Siamese. On the king’s naming us
personally, we were to bow in the usual style of recognisance with
us; and when the curtain was drawn on his appearance, we were to make
three such bows, as might suit us. This was all very well; and I was
glad to find the taking off the shoes was not spoken of, and entering
in a stooping position, which could not have been complied with, as
it was by Mr. Crawford, when on a mission a few years since, who, to
effect his purpose, (in which he totally failed,) complied with their
insulting demands. The Siamese amuse themselves with talking upon
this subject even now, and say, that the gentlemen belonging to the
mission, were obliged to walk ankle deep in mud and water; that some
of them lost their shoes, they being thrown away purposely by the
Siamese servants; of course, by order of their masters. Once or twice,
the subject was named to me, and I severely reproved them for their
disgraceful conduct. Major Burney, it seems, on a more recent mission,
agreed to comply with the demand of taking off his shoes, but on the
condition that he kept on his hat: they, however, preferred he should
keep on his shoes, and take off his hat.
Our mode of conveyance from the water-side to the palace, was agreed
upon previously, viz.: A palanquin, with eight bearers, dressed in red
uniforms, and caps to correspond, was to be provided for myself, and
ten horses for the other gentlemen, properly caparisoned, according
to rank. We embarked at nine o’clock, and were, in a few minutes, at
the palace-stairs. Spectators were numerous, in the floating houses
and boats, on our way; and on landing, the place was thronged with
them, leaving sufficient space, however, for the procession, there
being officers in attendance to keep the multitude in order. However,
every thing was well conducted, and without noise. Excellent horses,
handsomely caparisoned, with elegant saddles and silk bridles,
breastplate and head-stall, ornamented with various-coloured gems,
decked in rich embroidery, were provided: each horse was led by one of
the king’s servants.
The procession moved on, the envoy being placed in front, through two
long streets, passing a gate of the city, and finally arrived at one of
the gates to the palace-yard, where we found a guard, dressed in red
broadcloth coats, and waist-cloths of every colour, with and without
hats and caps, bearing muskets with black barrels and red stocks. We
proceeded to the hall of justice, where we dismounted.
Fronting the building, were ten large elephants, well caparisoned,
having a guide on their necks, with his hook and spear fixed to a
staff, while another sat on the rump with a similar weapon; and in
the centre, a standard-bearer, having a spear, to which was attached
a long tassel of elephant’s hair: these men wore red turbans and
neat parti-coloured dresses, well fitted to the shape. We ascended
two or three steps to a landing, which was crowded with people of
various descriptions: from this we advanced one step, which led to the
floor, being escorted by the officers in waiting, by Col. Pasqual,
and others. We were desired to wait a short time, till his majesty
had arrived in the hall, which was at a short distance. The floor was
covered with a good Persian carpet, apparently made for the place.
Among others present, were ten Pequan officers of rank, sitting on the
landing, outside the pillars which supported the roof, for none were
permitted to be on the floor where we were but the interpreters, and
these, according to etiquette, sat on the floor. The Pequan officers
were dressed in gold-flowered crimson silk, and long jackets, reaching
below the knee, and turbans of silk of the same colour, trimmed with
gold fringe: all were sitting in the Asiatic style. Having waited some
time, we were told the king was ready to receive us. In proceeding to
the hall, through a very spacious and extensive yard, we saw, on our
right, drawn out, standing on a grass-plot, under high canopies, eight
other elephants, richly caparisoned, having no riders, but plenty of
attendants. We passed on--preceded by a number of Chuliahs, or Moors,
having elegant silk dresses, reaching to the feet, and turbans, some
of flowered crimson: others with white silk having gold flowers, and
turbans of the same--through several hundred musicians, in red coats
and caps. In the rear were soldiers, placed in pens, in a crouching
posture, armed with spears and shields, with the interpreters and
peace-officers. The music, consisting of drums, brass horns, trumpets,
&c., &c., struck up a most deafening noise, on our entering within
their lines, which ceased when we arrived within the walls of the hall.
Every thing was conducted with the utmost decorum. Just before reaching
the hall, we passed a most noble spotted elephant--he had four massive
gold rings, which must have weighed several pounds each, studded with
jewels, secured around each tusk: a raised seat, a foot or two above
the ground, was fixed for him to stand on, because he was a royal
elephant, and could only be mounted by the king: a servant was feeding
him with fresh cut grass and bananas. Facing us was part of the king’s
stud of fine Arabian horses, placed under a high shed, richly, and
in fact, superbly dressed, attended by their keepers, which we were
requested to admire. The spectacle thus far was quite imposing, and it
seems every thing had been arranged to make a favourable impression.
The elephants were placed in those positions, where they would show
to the greatest advantage--as well as the king’s stud of horses, the
immense number of military with a vast many officers richly clad, many
of them being most splendidly dressed--the singular unique style of
architecture of the king’s palace--a large number of cannon placed
under open sided sheds, the hall of audience, &c., &c., illumined by a
brilliant sun and an unclouded sky, gave to every thing an Asiatic and
novel appearance.
[Sidenote: AUDIENCE OF KING.]
We entered at length the vestibule through a line of soldiers, and
passed to the right of a Chinese screen of painted glass, into the
presence of his majesty. There lay prostrate, or rather on all fours
resting on their knees and elbows, with hands united and head bowed
low, all the princes and nobility of the land: it was an impressive
but an abasing sight, such as no freeman could look on, with any other
feelings than those of indignation and disgust. We halted in front of
the presents which were delivered the day previous, being piles of
silks, rich fillagreed silver baskets, elegant gold watches studded
with large pearls: they were well disposed to make a show. Having gone
through the first ceremony of bowing, we sat down on a carpet: on our
being seated the prostrate slaves around us (being the great men of
the land) bowed simultaneously three times to the ground, in a slow
solemn manner, and we joined in the ceremony as had been previously
agreed upon. The king was seated under a canopy, in the Asiatic style,
on a cushion of red silk velvet, on the lower and more advanced of
the two thrones, which occupied the upper end of the apartment: this
was a square seat raised some half dozen feet from the floor. Every
thing was blazing in gold, in and about the two thrones: the larger
and unoccupied one was of an hexagonal shape, and resembled a church
pulpit, so that the king’s person when seated in it, can be visible
only through the open spaces, in the form of Gothic windows, about four
feet in height by one and a half and two in width. One of these windows
is in front, and one on each side of the throne. A pair of curtains of
gold cloth formed a partition between him and several individuals of
the royal family, who lay crouching just without, on separate carpets,
leaving a wide open space between the throne and the two interpreters,
who were midway of the hall. Before the curtain and on either side,
were eight or ten umbrellas of various sizes: these consist of a series
of canopies of eight or ten tiers, decreasing in size upward.
His majesty is a very stout fleshy man, apparently about forty-five
years of age, of a pleasing countenance. He was dressed in a cloth of
gold tissue around the waist, while a mantle was thrown gracefully
over the left shoulder. Four noblemen’s sons were seated at the base
of the throne, at the rear and sides, having long-handled pear-shaped
fans, richly gilt, which they kept in constant motion. A few questions
were addressed by the king in an audible voice: they were repeated
in a lower tone by the phaya phiphat, or second praklang, to the
phaya churat, or chief of the Chuliahs, by whom they were whispered
to the captain of the port, who interpreted them to us in the same
low tone--the answers were returned through the same channels by us;
inquiring, in the first place, as to the health of the President
and all the great men in our country--our own healths--those of the
officers and crew--how long we had been from America--where we had
been, and whence bound--desiring me to acquaint the praklang with all
my wants, that they might be supplied, &c., &c., &c. The curtain was
now drawn and his majesty disappeared; the court made three solemn
kotows, and we our three salams, and then retired. The hall is probably
one hundred and twenty feet in length by sixty in breadth, and has
seven or eight stout square pillars on each side, probably built of
brick and stuccoed, which support the roof; the highest part of the
ceiling must be thirty-five or forty feet, is painted vermillion,
having gilt starlike ornaments: the pillars and sides of the wall
were painted so as to resemble paper hangings, and were altogether in
bad taste: common looking-glasses, and ordinary European paintings of
men with frizzled and powdered hair, were placed against the wall.
The floor was covered with a new kidderminster carpet, such as may be
bought in the United States for about a dollar and a quarter a yard; in
fact there was no richness or elegance displayed; excepting about the
throne there were neither jewels nor costly workmanship: the dress of
the king himself was by no means extraordinary.
We were surrounded by Siamese, Cambojans, Burmese, Pequans, Malays,
Chinese, Cochin-Chinese, Moors, and people of Lao, dressed all in
the costumes of their respective countries, but all of them at the
disposal of the “master of lives,” as the king of Siam is styled. It
was before observed, that the princes were nearest the throne, on a
separate carpet; behind them, on another carpet, were the praklang and
the higher officers of state, as precedence is decided here by relative
vicinity to the throne: the lowest officers admitted, are those at the
very entrance of the hall. When the courtiers enter, they crawl in on
all fours, and, when dismissed, crawl out again backward, “à la crab,”
or “à la lobster;” and when the numbers are great, their appearance is
most ludicrous. During the audience the utmost silence was observed by
the courtiers; not an eye was even cast toward us until it was ended.
One would suppose that all who were there present, were assembled
before the throne of Him who is to _sit_ in judgment at the latter day,
rather than before a temporal monarch; there were such a stillness and
solemnity at times, that the scene was quite oppressive. The audience,
which lasted about half an hour, being ended, his majesty ordered us to
be shown the white and other elephants, the temples, &c., within the
palace-walls.
On our exit from the building, the music again struck up and ended
when we passed the lines. We were first conducted by the interpreters
and some half dozen officers, to the stables of the more valuable
elephants, kept within the enclosure. The first shown to us was the
sacred white elephant, a more gentle and peaceable character than the
one secured without the walls, near the river; he was much whiter
also, but this might be owing to his being kept cleaner, his eyes were
larger, sound, and healthy in appearance, and the skin free from scurf.
I was particularly requested to feed him with bananas and sugar-cane,
which he received from my hands most gently, rubbing his long proboscis
once over the back of my hand and then made three salams with his
trunk. Fresh cut grass was placed in small bundles before him, and when
annoyed by the flies and moschetoes, he would take a wisp and brush
his legs, throwing it afterward on his back. In this stall was a white
monkey, of the size of a small dog, a perfect Albino, the iris, pink,
&c., &c.; he was kept in a cage, and appeared never to be quiet for
a single second. We passed on to four other stalls, which contained
spotted elephants; they are noble animals, and I consider them more
worthy of notice than the white ones. We passed on to the great temple
of the palace, which was repairing, where Budha sat enthroned on high,
of a gigantic size, shining with gold and yellow cloths, and protected
with a yellow umbrella. The walls were covered with historical
paintings, relative to the wanderings of Rama; and the outer courts
were filled with descript and non-descript animals of all sorts, in
plaster, stone, and marble. Within the columns, plates of artificial
fruits were placed; the favourite lotus was growing in large ornamented
stone and porcelain vases, and there were artificial ones in stone. Two
warriors, of immense size, guarded the entrance as usual. The doors
were splendidly adorned with mother-of-pearl, inlaid so as to represent
flowers and fruit of various elegant devices. The thermometer being at
nearly a hundred, we remained but a short time, being much exhausted by
fatigue and the intense heat of the sun. We returned in the same order
in which we came, being much gratified with our reception, and rejoiced
that it was at an end.
[Sidenote: PRIESTS--INUNDATIONS.]
I have frequently asked the question, How many priests there are
belonging to the different pagodas? The answer has been always,
sometimes ten, and sometimes twenty thousand; there is no particular
number. Pray, what is the cause of this great difference in numbers,
at different times? Oh! it depends altogether upon the price of rice;
if rice is abundant, priests are fewer in number than when it is
scarce; for a great number of them enter the priesthood for a short
time only, when they have nothing to eat: this is the reason, why there
are so many small boys dressed in yellow, because their parents have
no food for them. During the great inundation of 1831, the number of
priests doubled, in consequence of the scarcity of provisions. This
vicinity was, until that time, remarkable for the great abundance and
variety of its excellent fruit. In the course of three months, during
which the country was so submerged, it was almost totally destroyed,
as well as the crops of rice and cane. In speaking one day of the
extreme servility of the lower classes to the higher, I was informed,
that the praklang, in coming out of his house during the overflow of
the river, always had the usual homage paid to him by the people, of
kneeling or stooping when he passed them; and that they have been
frequently seen so deeply immersed in water, as to be obliged to rise
a little to prevent its entering their mouths, and suffocating them.
This degrading homage, I have seen frequently paid him by his eldest
son, Luang-nai-Sit, crawling on all fours into his father’s presence,
and bowing his head to the ground, with united hands. He is about
twenty-five years of age--has several wives and many children; he is
of an inquiring mind, but said to be very intriguing and cringing to
those who can promote his interests. He says, “his father frequently
sends for him to breakfast, and the constrained position in which he
is placed (on all fours) prevents his eating much, he, therefore,
unfortunately suffers before he can obtain his dinner.”
Among the queer articles of export from this place to China, are
snake-skins, which are there used for musical instruments principally,
and also for medicinal purposes. Many of the reptiles, from which these
are taken, are of large size; and it is said are upward of thirty feet
in length, and wide in proportion. The floating houses on the river,
when sunk nearly to the water’s edge, by the decaying of the bamboos
on which they rest, are frequently annoyed with them, for they are
always in search of poultry. Among other methods of taking them, is
this: a chicken is placed at the further end of a bamboo coop, near
the door, over-night; a hole is made in this coop of a sufficient size
to admit the entrance of a snake of fifteen or twenty feet in length;
if the reptile enter, after having gorged himself with his prey, he is
unable to get out, and is then easily killed. The skin is then dried,
and rolls of it are found suspended from the ceiling of the floating
shops. The entire carcasses of tigers are also exported to China,
for the people of that country ignorantly suppose them to possess
great medicinal qualities. Last year, sixty carcasses paid duties on
exportation, besides a large number smuggled; they are generally in a
very putrid state long before they are shipped.
The thick hide of the rhinoceros is also another article of export to
the same country, and by a peculiar process, it is made into, and used
as a nutritious jelly.
[Sidenote: BUDHA--CANALS.]
_March twenty-seventh._ Reconnoitring in my boat yesterday evening,
on the left bank of the river, up one of the numerous canals, we saw
under a common shed, a short distance from a wat or temple, a number
of idols. We stepped on shore to examine them, and at the feet of the
great idol, lay a poor wretch, dying with the confluent small-pox;
his bloated features and his person, covered with pustules, made him
a disgusting object; he had crawled thither that morning, and had
brought half a dozen saucers of sweetmeats, cooked rice, and fruit, and
placed them on the lap of Budha, praying no doubt most fervently, that
he would be pleased to cure him of his foul disease: but his cries were
of no avail to this gilded block of wood, although they lasted from
morning until eventide; for he died that night, at the feet of Budha.
_March twenty-eighth._ This morning, it being very high water, we
entered on the canal which runs near to the southern wall of the city;
passing along it, about a mile and a quarter, we turned to the left,
and proceeding along about the same distance, we again shot out into
the main river: thus taking a complete circuit of the city. The wall
is about twenty feet in height; not a piece of cannon was seen, nor
even a solitary sentry taking his weary round; but a number of canals
passed under the wall, and were filled with market-boats: there are no
portcullises ready to drop, in case of a rebellion, or the invasion of
an enemy; these canals, therefore, offer a ready and easy entrance. The
houses in the suburbs in many places, are built immediately against
the walls. No defence could be made, against even a small disciplined
force, for there is no regular military force in the kingdom; the
soldiers are never drilled with muskets, the government being unwilling
to trust them with arms in their hands: their mode of warfare is
altogether desultory. Many parts of the canal which surrounds the
city, were much crowded with pedlars’ boats, containing coarse cloth,
paper, brass, and iron utensils, &c.; others with salt, sapan-wood,
cotton in small baskets, areca-nut, siri-leaf, chunam, coloured with
turmeric, dried fish, oil, sugar, balachang, fresh pork, fish, fruit,
and vegetables.
The back of the city bore, altogether, a rural appearance; the banks
were thickly settled, people of all ages were bathing, washing at the
same time their simple dresses; children were seen asleep in short
square-net hammocks, and the mother lying at full length on a mat,
chewing areca-nut, or smoking a cigar, propelling with her foot the
hanging cradle; the cat and dog lay stretched also at full length on
the platform, overcome with the intense heat of the day; the banks
were, however, well shaded by the many trees which occupied every
vacant place. The mango, now fully laden with its oblong green fruit;
the religious fig-tree with its broad and pointed leaf; the plantain
bending beneath the weight of its fruit; the areca-palm with its
slender and regular stem, and brush-like head; and the useful cocoa-nut
and bamboo, were seen towering in every direction. We visited a number
of the king’s boat-houses, and saw a canoe one hundred and five feet
long, made from a single teak-tree, excepting the high curved stem and
stern; we saw also, hundreds of useless boats, most of them intended
for war, while others were for pleasure, being neatly gilded about each
quarter. The war-boats would be altogether useless in a sea-fight.
[Sidenote: TEMPLE OF WAT-CHAN-TONG.]
_March thirtieth._ Yesterday we visited a wat or pagoda, built by
the present king, when he was prince Chroma Chiat; it is called
wat-chan-tong, or “the temple of the golden sandal tree;” it is
situated about six or seven miles from the outlet of Bang-kok Yai,
into the Menam. The company consisted of the Rev. Mr. Jones, and
Doctor Ticknor; a boat and rowers were sent to us by the praklang.
The buildings are more substantial, and in better order, than any
I have heretofore seen; hewn granite steps and pillars were about
the principal entrances; the floors of the temples were of marble
tessellated; the walls leading to the temples, and the dwellings of
the Talapoys, were of square pieces of split granite; and there was a
greater air of neatness about them, than any we have yet viewed. Noble
banyan, and the religious fig-tree, shaded the walks; large porcelain
figures of men, and non-descript beasts, embellished the fronts of
churches, the entrances into the outer courts.
There are two islets near to the landing place, having on them
miniature temples, and small images, overshadowed by noble banyan
trees, which are to be found in great abundance every where in the
vicinity of Bang-kok. It is one of the most curious of nature’s
productions: each full-sized tree is a grove; for every branch, on
reaching the ground, vegetates and increases to a large trunk, and
these again send forth others, till, from old age and exhaustion, the
parent dies, and the progeny gradually decay for want of sustenance,
leaving a forest in ruins. It affords most beautiful walks, vistas,
and cool recesses; and bears a small fig, which is scarlet when ripe,
and affords a luxuriant repast to monkeys and peacocks, and other
birds, which inhabit this father of trees, that shades and protects
their young, in cool recesses, from a burning sun, where they sport
and idle their leisure hours away, free from cares, excepting from
the mischievous monkey, which robs them of their eggs, or the wily
serpent, that beguiles them of their tender progeny.
The principal wat is occupied by a colossal figure of Budha, lying on
his right side, supported by the elbow and hand, and seven square and
triangular pillows, with ornamented ends of coloured glass. It is of
the enormous length of _sixty-three_ feet, having on its head a high
peaked cap. The “phra-bat,” or “holy feet,” are each six feet nine
inches in length, having five toes, all of equal length, being one less
than the Budha of the Burmese. It is made of brick and stuccoed; but
overlaid with heavy gilding, highly burnished. It was covered, on its
exposed or left side, with yellow, or talapoy cloth, and canopied by
an enormous yellow umbrella. Many priests and young students of the
monastery accompanied us. They were asked why the idol was protected
with cloths, and the umbrella? They replied, that the great Budha
would be offended if neglected, and he ought to be kept warm. As the
thermometer was little short of one hundred, and we were panting for
breath, with the perspiration running from us in streams, they were
told that all clothing was oppressive; but they said, they dared not
neglect him. They were also asked, how long he was to lie? They said,
about three thousand years, when Budha would be annihilated, or his
authority rather would cease.
The ceiling of the wat was painted of a rich vermillion, and “thickly
inlaid with patines of bright gold.” The walls, and inside of the doors
and window-shutters, were entirely covered with rural and aquatic
scenes, birds, flowers, &c., &c.; all rich with gold and beautiful
colours, highly varnished, displaying a cultivated taste. The doors,
at the entrance, were most splendidly inlaid with mother-of-pearl,
wrought into various and elegant devices. Surrounding the wall of the
court-yard, was an extensive corridor, containing eighty Budhas, of
about four feet high, in a sitting posture generally, while others
were standing. At the feet of each were two smaller sized devotees,
kneeling and facing them, with their hands spread out and united in
the attitude of prayer. These, together with a group of eight in one
corner, made, altogether, two hundred and forty-six images, being all
highly burnished with gold. Other images, of women, are scattered about
the court; and the two gigantic warriors, as usual, placed as guards at
its common entrance. The Indian lotus was growing in handsome vases of
granite, porcelain, and marble. There was also a large gilt image in a
sitting posture, made of a composition of copper, tin, and zinc. The
ceiling, walls, &c., were nearly similarly painted to the other, having
a tessellated marble pavement; but the doors were painted black, with
borders of richly gilded flowers. A devotee had taken up his lodging
within the temple, near one of the doors, and was then praying at the
feet of the image. He passed his days there, and at night watered his
couch with his tears, in the vain expectation that, at his death, Budha
would cause his soul to be transmigrated into a higher and holier state
of existence.
There were about one hundred and fifty Talapoys generally at this
monastery. Here, also, was a small deep bathing place, having in it a
number of small alligators--they are common. We passed a great number
of temples, and counted twenty-five on this route. The banks were
thickly inhabited, having a low but rich country; and the various fruit
and flowering forest trees, by which it was overshadowed, contributed
greatly to its beautiful scenery. Boats were continually passing in
great numbers, variously laden. The fronts of the cottages being open,
all the domestic operations were fully seen. At the foot of the ladder,
childhood and old age were seen, bathing in the turbid waters of this
tributary of the Menam, all seemingly happy, although living under one
of the most despotic governments in the world.
On our return, observing an artificial mound near a small wat with a
gilded front, we were induced to stop and examine it; it was in height
about twenty feet, built of brick and overlaid with rough pieces of
rock. We entered by a flight of steps into some dark winding passages
in imitation of caverns--on the step was a small temple court and a
relic of gautama, which we were unable to see owing to the Talapoy who
had charge of it being asleep. The thermometer being at ninety-five,
with a dead oven-like heat, we were glad to retreat to some cooler
place. Proceeding on by another route, we saw a number of Talapoys,
collected near to a place for the burning of the dead, under a high
pyramidal shed placed amid a grove of the religious fig-tree: we landed
and proceeded to the spot. In the centre of the building, on a brick
platform, was placed a bier of seven or eight feet in height--the sides
which concealed the body were covered with white muslin and the top,
&c., ornamented with yellow tinsel; the bier, I suppose, was of wood,
but it was neatly covered with plantain stock, and being fresh cut
resembled ivory with a slight tinge of yellow: fanciful devices were
cut in the sides and red paper inserted, which gave it a very neat
and finished appearance. In each corner were raised platforms, and
on one of them sat fifteen or twenty Talapoys, having before them a
feast of nice things, such as rice cooked in various ways, sweetmeats
and fruits, and a pile of yellow cloth, all of which were presents,
from the parents of a dead daughter, lying before these senseless
worshippers of idols. They were talking aloud and laughing, apparently
insensible to the solemn occasion for which they were assembled: being
disgusted with their conduct, and finding that the ceremony would not
take place until three in the afternoon, we left the place intending to
return in due time.
[Sidenote: FIRE-FEEDERS.]
At the appointed hour, we were again there, but the burning had
commenced half an hour previously: a part of the scull was remaining,
the head having separated from the body: the back bone was nearly
entire as well as part of the limbs; two grim looking fellows were
replenishing and stirring the fire with three-pronged forks, smoking
cigars, and laughing as though they were attending a baker’s oven. They
were constantly employed in going from this funeral pile to another,
situated in the open air, a short distance off, where was consuming the
body of a dead slave.
Besides the “fire-feeders,” there was assembled a party of young
females, acquaintances of the deceased girl, waiting to collect the
unconsumed bones, that they might be conveyed to the mourning parents:
they were decent in their behaviour, but there were no visible signs
of grief on their countenances at this sad spectacle; they were seated
on one of the raised platforms, chewing areca-nut, and talking with
considerable earnestness--but the instant they saw us, they started on
their feet, and exhibited very strong symptoms of curiosity; probably,
many of them had never seen a white person before, and our dress, of
course, appeared strange to those who were only accustomed to the sight
of a waist-cloth. They inquired of a gentleman who spoke Siamese and
English, if we came to see a body burnt, or what was the object of our
visit: we told them it was to see a body burnt, and to view the temple
near by. They asked us to look at the remains, on the funeral pile, and
see if we could tell whether it was a male or female, (for the natives
are under the impression that Europeans know every thing, and all the
European race even if born in America, are called Europeans.) They were
told after taking a view of them, that they were those of a female. At
this answer, they held up their hands, and appeared to be exceedingly
astonished, for they were not aware that we had ascertained this fact
in the morning. We immediately left them, not wishing to be questioned
further, and they are under the delusion without doubt, that we do,
indeed, “know every thing.”
The poor slave who has just been mentioned, must have had a friend who
was willing to pay the expenses of the burning to the Talapoys, or
_alias_ the phratais or phra-bo-coots as they are called in Siamese,
otherwise he would have been thrown without ceremony into the Menam and
become food for fish or alligators. A worthless priesthood, who _daily_
spunge the most abject in society of their scanty pittance of rice,
clothing, or fruit, refuse even a few sticks of wood to consume the
dead bodies of their poor benefactors, and to recite a few heathenish
prayers without being amply paid for their trouble; but the priests of
Budha are not the only ones who exact payment for what is obviously
their bounden duty. Some of the Christian churches, even in this
vicinity, as well as those of other countries, will be paid for burying
their dead, and saying mass for the repose of departed souls.
[Sidenote: BURNING THE DEAD.]
The ceremony of burning the dead may be witnessed almost daily, between
noon and three o’clock, within the precincts of the temples. During the
ceremony, music of a most discordant kind is frequently introduced. The
instruments are noisy and consist of gongs, drums, &c., &c. Prayers,
written in the Pah language on slips of palm-leaf, are first read by a
priest from a pulpit; females and males set beneath it each holding a
taper: the language is probably unintelligible to every one present,
for most of the priests can barely read it, and few of them understand
it.
These places are generally thronged with idle persons, who take no part
in the ceremonies, and walk in and out talking and smoking cigars, &c.,
&c. At the head of the coffin is a piece of white cloth; a number of
priests take hold of it on each side, reciting certain prayers--this
being ended, the coffin and bier are dismantled, the body is washed by
one of the servants of the pagoda, who is always paid a small fee for
this most disgusting piece of service. Bodies are frequently kept for
days in this sultry climate, and then the office is no sinecure--it
is truly loathsome. The ablution being concluded, a layer of wet earth
is laid on the bier and dry wood is piled upon it--the body is then
replaced in the coffin, and carried three successive times around the
altar by the nearest male relatives, and afterward deposited upon
the pile; tapers and incense rods are distributed to all who will
receive them; a priest delivers a final prayer, then sets fire to the
funeral pile, and is followed by all who receive tapers and rods for
that purpose. The scull is always broken with a heavy bar of iron,
to prevent, as they say, an explosion and scattering of the bones
and brains. Small pieces of money are now distributed to objects of
charity, who are always in waiting at these places at the usual hours,
and are disappointed if there are no rich victims ready for the funeral
pile; sometimes the male relatives throw bundles of cloth over the
pile--those on the opposite side carefully catch them, and in other
cases it is dispensed with.
No explanation of this singular piece of ceremony could ever be
obtained. I ought to have mentioned, previously, a horrible custom
which occasionally prevails here: many Siamese give directions that
their dead bodies shall be stripped of the flesh and given to dogs, and
carniverous birds, which infest the neighbourhood of the altars, and
the bones only are burnt. This is considered to be both laudable and
charitable. The unconsumed bones are carefully collected, prayers are
recited over them, and various ceremonies are performed by the priests.
They are then burnt to ashes, reduced into a paste with water, and then
formed into a small figure of Budha, and gilded; the latter is then
placed among the household gods, or deposited in a temple of Budha. If
any important branch of the family die, it is carried in procession,
and this is called “the procession of the bones of their ancestors.”
But as the priests are very exorbitant in their demands for this small
piece of service, none but the richer class can afford the expense.
[Sidenote: MISSIONARIES.]
I omitted to mention the arrival, some days since, from Singapore, of
the English schooner _Reliance_, commanded by an American, Captain
Burgess of Maine, and owned by Robert Hunter, a Scotch gentleman, who
has been trading for eight or nine years past between Singapore and
some of the ports on the eastern side of the Malay peninsula, but more
particularly with this place. In this vessel came an American Baptist
missionary, the Reverend John Taylor Jones--wife, child, and servants:
he has been residing for about two years past at Maulmein, in Burmah,
but latterly at Rangoon. He had been expected for some months, and a
house was preparing for him by the very respectable Mr. Silveiro, the
Portuguese consul at Cokai, near a campong of Burmese. I immediately
wrote a note and sent it to the roads, about forty or fifty miles
distant, offering them every accommodation in our extensive house,
until they should be able to take possession of their own. Two days
afterward, the family arrived with the exception of Mr. Jones, who came
the following day, and remained with us till every thing was arranged.
Their house is a tolerably comfortable one for the climate; they appear
to be well satisfied with it, and their contiguity to Mr. Silveiro, who
speaks French, English, and Siamese, and is able to give every sort
of information relative to the people and the country, having resided
here about thirteen years. The house is situated a short distance back
from the river, amidst palm and other trees, and is surrounded by a
dense population. The house formerly occupied by the Reverend Mr.
Tompkin, an Englishman, Mr. Gutzlaff, a Prussian, and Mr. Abeel an
American, all missionaries, residing here within the last few years, is
a short distance from it, and immediately on the banks of the Menam;
it is a very small cottage, fit only for humble dwellers, and the very
appearance of it, with the very respectable men who occupied it, will
convince any one, that a life of luxury and indolence was not their
object in leaving their country and their homes, and all that was dear
to them; but to go about doing good in the cause of Christ, according
to their best abilities.
These worthy men did much good when they were here, by administering
medicines to the sick, and in many instances, no doubt, in distributing
useful and religious tracts in the Siamese and Chinese languages; but
the injudicious though well-meant zeal of Mr. Gutzlaff in the very
outset, within the first two days of his arrival, gave great cause of
offence to the government; for he immediately threw many thousands
of tracts into every floating house, boat and junk, as well as into
cottages. An order was issued for his immediate expulsion from the
country, and that his tracts should be collected and burnt; and had
it not been for the friendly interference and good management of Mr.
Hunter, who was a favourite with the praklang, the order would have
been executed.
The king ordered a translation of the tracts to be made, which was done
very fairly; he read them and said candidly and openly that there was
nothing objectionable in them, but he preferred his own religion. The
government raise no objections to Christian missionaries residing in
the country, and it is as favourably disposed toward them as can be
expected, considering the great influence of the Budha priests; but
missionaries must never suffer their zeal to transport them beyond
the bounds of common prudence. A certain sect of Christians here are
very inimical to Protestant missionaries, much more so, I am credibly
informed, than the Talapoys, who believe themselves so firmly seated
that they do not trouble themselves about the Protestant preachers. As
a convincing proof that the government is far from being unfriendly to
missionaries, the praklang sent down a good covered boat, expressly to
convey Mr. Jones and his family to their new residence, at Cokai, two
miles distant from our house. Mr. Jones was introduced by Mr. Hunter to
the praklang, who received him with apparent kindness.
It it said, by some, that this favourable reception is owing to his
being an American citizen, and because of the friendly terms existing
between the government of Siam and the United States. It is true,
without doubt, that the king openly expressed much gratification, that
an American man-of-war had arrived with an envoy, for the purpose of
forming a treaty of amity and commerce. This fact was named to me
repeatedly, by the praklang and by others, who daily attend the court.
His Siamese majesty immediately ordered his best unoccupied building to
be prepared for us, (and it certainly is the best on the river;) two
of his best war-boats to be sent to bring us to the city, and a feast
to be prepared by the governor of Packnam; and on our arrival at the
house, every comfort and every luxury were spread on the table; and
cook, purveyor, servants, interpreters, and guards, at our service. The
praklang was ordered to facilitate the speedy execution of the treaty,
&c.
All this was very gratifying; but, under the frequent delays and
obstructions thrown in the way of the treaty by the praklang,
influenced, probably, by the preference which the government people
of Siam were said to have for my countrymen, it is said by Mr. S.
and by many others, to have been the most extraordinary instance of
despatch ever known in the history of diplomacy in this country,
even when an enemy was at their door. Their friendly disposition
towards us was confirmed by Major Burney, who was sent to Siam, by
the governor-general of India, about six years since, now ambassador
at the court of Ava. He informed Mr. Jones, that the Americans were
decidedly preferred to any other foreigners. He was detained here
about seven months, and met with a thousand vexations. He was not
more successful in his negotiations than we were, although aided by
the sacrifice of the king of Quedah, and the fears the Siamese have
of their English neighbours in Burmah, and the Malay peninsula. Mr.
Crawford, his predecessor, likewise, who came here for a similar
purpose, in 1812, was detained several months, treated with insult, and
dismissed without obtaining a single commercial advantage. I omitted
to mention that Mr. Abeel is held here in the highest estimation, by
those who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. He possesses talents
of a very superior order, and acquirements that do great credit to his
industry; is mild and conciliating in his manners, forcible in his
arguments, yet possessing a sufficient degree of zeal, never giving
offence to the government, nor creating dislike by being over-zealous,
and thereby disgusting the natives; but the bad state of his health
would not permit him to remain on this good missionary ground, which
may be made, in a few years, ready for the harvest. Missionary stations
should never be left vacant, and several teachers should be on the spot
at the same time, so as to be able to relieve each other occasionally.
The language of the country must first be learned, and at least a
partial knowledge obtained of the Mandarin and Fo-kien languages of
China. Missionaries should also be well acquainted with the peculiar
doctrines of the Budhists, which they are labouring to subvert: free
schools should be established; a printing-press put in operation, and
those children should be preferred who have never attended the schools
of the Talapoys. Although a good wife contributes in a thousand ways to
the comfort and convenience of the missionary, yet the prejudices of
the people they visit should be consulted, at least for the present;
for the Siamese are firm in their opinion, that the vow of perpetual
celibacy should be observed by all who bear the title of priests, of
Christians as well as worshippers of Budha. All missionaries should
also have some knowledge of medicine and surgery.