SAILING FROM BENCOOLEN--ARRIVAL AT CROKATOA AND FORSAKEN
ISLANDS--SCENERY--BEAUTIFUL SUBMARINE GARDEN--BRITISH
FRIGATE--ARRIVAL AT ANGIER--SAILING FROM ANGIER--BAY AND CITY OF
MANILA--BUILDINGS--POPULATION--PROVISIONS--LABOUR.
On the last day of August, we weighed anchor at nine o’clock in the
evening, from Bencoolen bay, and aided by the current and a land
breeze, about midnight we once more found ourselves at sea. Owing to
light head-winds from the southeast, calms, contrary winds, and violent
squalls from the high mountains of Sumatra, accompanied with thunder
and lightning, we did not arrive at our anchorage ground, off the north
end of the island of Crokatoa, in the straits of Sunda, until the
eighth day after our departure from the bay.
At daybreak the following morning, a boat was despatched in search of
inhabitants, fresh water, and yams; but, after three or four hours’
search, returned unsuccessful. Two other boats were then sent under
the command of the first lieutenant Mr. Cunningham: after a fruitless
search, that officer returned at sunset, after visiting Long Island
and Crokatoa. It was found difficult to effect a landing any where,
owing to a heavy surf and to the coral having extended itself to a
considerable distance from the shore. Hot springs only were found on
the eastern side of the latter island, one hundred and fifty feet from
the shore, boiling furiously up, through many fathoms of water. Early
on the succeeding morning, Capt. Geissinger, Lieutenant Fowler of the
marines, and myself, left the ship, on a visit to Forsaken island: we
flattered ourselves, as we approached the island, that the grateful
sound of many a murmuring rill, trickling down its steep and woody
sides, was heard by us--but we also were doomed to disappointment;
for, on landing, the sound was found to proceed from the singing of
locusts, which had obtained undisturbed possession of the island, and
were making sad ravages among the tender herbage. “No human footsteps
marked the trackless sand.”
In reconnoitring between Forsaken and Crokatoa islands, we were struck
with admiration at the great variety, both in form and colour, of an
extensive and highly beautiful submarine garden, over which the boat
was smoothly and slowly gliding. Corals of every shape and hue were
there--some resembling sunflowers and mushrooms; others, cabbages
from an inch to three feet in diameter: while a third bore a striking
likeness to the rose.
“Some present
Large growth of what may seem the sparkling trees,
And shrubs of fairy land: while others shine
Conspicuous, and, in light apparel clad,
And fledged with snowy feathers, nod superb.”
The water was clear as crystal; not the slightest breeze ruffled its
glassy surface: the morning sun, having just freed the noble peak of
Crokatoa from its misty covering, shone forth with unusual splendour;
the sides of the hills, to their lofty summits, were clothed with
all the variety of fruit, forest, and flowering trees common to
intertropical climates: large flocks of parrots, shaking the dew of
night from their downy pinions, were seen wending their way towards
the palm-trees, in search of daily food; and monkeys in great variety
were commencing their lively gambols amid the wild-mango and orange
groves:--again, gazing in delighted wonder beneath us, we viewed the
superb scene of plants and flowers of every description, glowing in
vivid teints of purple, red, blue, brown, and green--equalling, in
richness and variety, the gayest parterre. A variety of small fish,
spotted, striped, and ringed, possessing every colour and shade, were
sporting in these regions of unsurpassed brilliancy and beauty. It was,
apparently, a great gala day; for they were revelling in great ease
and luxury, playing all sorts of gambols in their bright sea-homes,
unconscious of danger, and taking a full measure of enjoyment, in
their unrivalled retreats. That nothing might be wanting to complete
this gay scene of Nature’s own choosing, shells of great variety and
shelves of coral, possessing every variety in colour, studded the
bottom; the superb Harpa, with its ribbed sides and straw-coloured
dress, slightly tinged with red and black; the Cyprea or Cowry of
almost every variety, covered with an epidermis or thin membrane to
protect its highly-polished surface; and many others, which might rival
the most delicate porcelain in whiteness and smoothness: there lay the
warlike Chiton, encased in his black coat-of-mail, ready for battle,
or adhering to the shell of a large Triton--the latter having closed
the entrance to his castle by a thick marble valve, which Nature had
provided as a protection against an enemy, or a barrier against the
rough beatings of a boisterous sea. Above, beneath, around us--all was
in harmony.
A solemn stillness--broken only occasionally by the diving of a huge
turtle, the harsh note of the wild seabird, the singing of locusts,
or the shrill cry of the tiger-cat--reigned every where in the narrow
strait which separates the two islands. Disappointed in receiving the
so-much-needed supply of water and provisions, we weighed anchor the
same evening for Angier, in Java, and before daybreak, came to in
its roadstead. On our passage across, about midnight, we observed a
large ship bearing down for us. Immediately all hands were piped to
quarters--the battle-lanterns lit, fore and aft--the gun-deck cleared
of hammocks--the two-and-thirties loaded with round and grape shot, and
run out--the slow matches lighted and placed in their tubs--the marines
ranged along the quarter-deck, and the powder boys stationed from the
magazine to the gun-deck--the surgeons in the cockpit were displaying a
fearful array of bandages; and in five minutes the ship was ready for
action. As the vessel neared us, we found her to be no enemy, but his
Britannic majesty’s ship Magicienne, from Batavia, bound to Bengal. So
we parted as we met--_friends_. May we never meet as enemies!
[Sidenote: VISIT OF THE JAVANESE.]
Day had scarcely made its appearance, ere the ship was surrounded
with Javanese canoes of all sizes, having outriggers to prevent their
oversetting, bringing fruits and vegetables, fowls, eggs, goats,
musk-deer, civet-cats, coloured and green doves; monkeys in great
variety; parrots, Java sparrows, having slate-coloured plumage and pink
bills, hats, shells, &c., for sale. Their strange mode of speaking the
English language, afforded much amusement to the whole crew: “Capetan,
you buy me fowl? Ib gotty fivety ten fowl, Capetan, he be great
biggy one; you buy Japa sparrow? Ib got uby, uby, yam, yam, plenty,
plenty, bery good; egg fowl, Capetan; fowl egg, Capetan, he be largy
one, biggy, biggy, all same as dat larangy, (pointing to a basket of
oranges,) I gib you Capetan, one hundred, five, ten, egg, (meaning one
hundred and fifteen,) sposey Capetan you gib me one dollar and one
quart;” (one dollar and a quarter.)
All this was spoken with great rapidity and amid forcible
gesticulations. They were not at all abashed in asking a double price
for their articles, and stale eggs; the latter, they always endeavoured
to impose on us as new and fresh. The greatest curiosity I have yet
met with, is the musk-deer; it is in height nine and a half inches,
and twenty inches in length, from the top of the nose to the tail; has
large protruding round eyes, moderate-sized ears and a sleek, grayish,
dun-coloured coat, with beautiful slender legs and small hoofs. In
its shape it is a perfect deer, but has no horns. I have, at times,
seen this animal possessed of two scythe-shaped teeth, projecting from
the upper jaw and placed near the extremity of the mouth, pointing
recurvated backward. When irritated it would cut deeply with them and
strike with great rapidity.
No covering beyond that of a waistcloth, was worn by the Javanese
boatmen, and but an additional breastcloth, by the females. An
odd-looking hat, which is in general use throughout the eastern seas,
is worn by both sexes; it is made of bamboo or palm-leaf, is impervious
to water, and may be likened to an old-fashioned painted dishcover,
divested of its brim. Both sexes chewed the areca-root to excess, and
were much disappointed that we could not supply them with opium, though
the penalty inflicted on them for its purchase, is slavery for life.
We paid a visit to Mr. Vogel, the commander of the Dutch fort, and met
with a very hospitable reception.
[Sidenote: MARRIAGE CEREMONY.]
The Camprongoe village of Angier contains about fourteen hundred
inhabitants, composed almost entirely of Javanese and Malays; it is
built on low ground, verging on a swamp, in the midst of palm-trees.
The houses, excepting perhaps a dozen, are of bamboo, roofed with
palm-leaf, and enclosed by a slight paling of wood. A bamboo bridge,
thrown across a ditch, conducted us to a very neat fortification; the
parade-ground on each side being shaded by rows of trees and having a
very pretty garden tastefully laid out and full of flowers, in front
of the commandant’s house. During the two days which we remained, a
marriage-festival was in progress; when the seven days of public
rejoicing were finished the parties were to be united. These festivals
only take place among the children of the rajahs, or very rich men.
Every person who chooses to join the procession, is feasted at a house
provided for that purpose, during the festival. Were it not for the
presents of rice, bullocks, &c., sent by the friends of the betrothed,
the expense would be too burdensome; as many hundreds attend, even from
the neighbouring villages.
The procession consisted of ladies and gentlemen, seated in separate
carts, persons on horseback and on foot, dressed in the gayest
habiliments which they could procure, carrying a great number of flags
of various colours and devices; and children dressed in yellow satin
trousers, their faces painted yellow, with large curved eyebrows and
fantastical caps. Great numbers of noisy instruments accompanied the
motley group, and the whole village was in an uproar, which ended only
with the setting sun. As we were passing the house of feasting, a
servant was sent out to solicit the honour of our company; we entered
the premises through two bands of musicians, who played on about thirty
instruments, which being struck by small hammers, made a tinkling sound.
The master of the ceremonies received us with great politeness and
with much ceremony; he was habited in a robe of crimson, figured with
velvet, having a silk scarf thrown over his shoulders, and wearing a
turban; his teeth were of a deep black, owing to his excessive use of
areca and phunam, and his lips and gums were of a livid hue. Scarcely
were we seated, at a table set apart for our own use, in the midst of
many hundred hungry native revellers, ere twenty-seven dishes, composed
chiefly of sweetmeats, (there not being a particle of meat or fish,)
were upon the table. After tasting a little of each, to show that we
were gratified with the _whole_ entertainment, and partaking of a cup
of tea, we took our leave; areca was offered, as is customary, on our
entry and departure. During the repast, four Javanese stepped out
between the orchestra and danced for our amusement; their movements
were slow, but very graceful, the head looking downward, and the arms
as much in motion as the feet; the former being extended occasionally
rather above the head, and the palms being generally opened outward and
placed in every position, excepting that of closing or clenching.
Two well-constructed piers at this place, running out from a shallow
creek, make a convenient harbour for small-craft, and near its upper
part, is an excellent place for procuring water, which is obtained by
a simple and expeditious process: a hose is connected with casks in
a boat beneath, the latter are filled in a few minutes, so that in
twenty-four hours the ship obtained twelve thousand gallons of water.
Yams, sweet-potatoes, goats, fowls, and fruit were purchased in
abundance, but neither _flour_ or _bread_ could be obtained. Several
monkeys were purchased by the crew at Angiers. After the ship had
weighed anchor a female animal of this tribe, having a young one
clinging closely to the under part of her body, broke loose, ran with
great swiftness to the end of the spankerboom, and plunged into the
sea; a Javanese boat, towing astern, took them in; but not in time to
save the life of the younger; the female was then secured but refused
to eat, and remained till next morning in a state of melancholy.
Believing the animal would die, she was unloosed and running with
great precipitancy to the end of the boom, looked into the sea; but
not finding the object of her solicitude there, she looked overboard,
from every part of the ship, moaning most piteously. About this time,
she observed a small gray monkey, differing in species from herself,
having a very long tail; she at once seized the latter and hugged it
with great, seeming delight. The attempt to remove it from her would
have been in vain, had any one been disposed to make the trial; when
any of the sailors or the monkeys approached her, she would hug her
new object of affection with greater tenacity, run out her head, pout
disdainfully, and show a formidable row of white ivory; chattering and
scolding, at the same time most vehemently; occasionally she would
allow it to wander a few steps, holding on by the tip of the tail,
during the time; when too far, she would pull it backward, but if it
attempted to go beyond the length of its leading-string, (the tail,)
she would quickly drag it to her, box its ears, closely embrace it, and
after being reconciled, would feed it with some dainty morsel, stowed
away in her pouch.
On a cold, stormy day, during our passage from La Plata to Sumatra, the
gun-deck being deluged with water, a Porto Praya monkey, a favourite
of mine, came to the cabin-door, and in its most expressive manner
solicited permission to enter; it stood shivering in the doorway,
dripping with saltwater, and looking the picture of distress, at
the same time snuffing up the warm air, proceeding from a stove; I
called it in, at length; the first object of its attention was the
stove, (never having seen one before,) but approaching too near, it
slightly burnt its nose, and quickly retreated, looking with much
astonishment at the cause; finally it sprung to the top of the table
and skipping about from one place to another, unfortunately alighted on
the stove, where it danced for a second or two, jumped precipitately
down, and came to me, showing its paws, (which were scorched white,)
and apparently asking for relief. I rubbed them with oil, at which the
animal appeared to be relieved; it then quietly took its station as
close to me as possible, testifying unquestionably, as much silent
gratitude as any human being could have done in a similar situation.
[Sidenote: SAILING FROM ANGIER.]
We sailed from Angier roadstead, for Manila, on the afternoon of
the following day, but owing to light airs we made slow progress
to the island of Lucepara; here we were obliged to anchor to find
sufficient depth of water to carry the ship into the straits of Banca.
After sounding with several boats, there was, at length, found a
channel, having about three feet more water than the ship drew. When
passing through the straits we were compelled frequently to anchor,
in consequence of the soundings disagreeing much with our miserable
charts. A fine breeze wafted us through these waters with great
rapidity, as far as Pulo Aor; from thence, until we were fairly to
the northward of the great group of shoals, lying towards the coast
of Palawan, we were more indebted to the current. On our passage from
Sumatra to the Philippines we passed through a considerable portion of
the archipelago of the east, where lie Borneo, Java, and Sumatra, the
Molucca and Philippine islands; where the sea is like a smooth bed on
which the islands seem to sleep in bliss--islands, in which the spice
and perfume gardens of the world, are embosomed; where the bird of
paradise, the golden pheasant, and a hundred other birds of brilliant
plumage, have their homes amid thickets so luxuriant, and scenery so
picturesque, that European strangers there find the fairy lands of
their youthful dreams. But our pleasing anticipations were at times
blighted with the apprehension of striking on some unknown shoal, or
encountering one of those tremendous typhoons for which the northern
coast of China, in the latter part of September, about the changing of
the monsoons, is so notorious.
Thick squally weather attended by variable winds blowing sometimes from
the northern, and again from the southern quarter, wafted us rapidly to
the eastward, after doubling the shoals. We proceeded onward, assisted
by a strong current, until two o’clock in the morning of the thirtieth
of September, when a slight gleam of light appearing through the
mist, discovered to us mount and point Calavité, on the northwestern
extremity of Mendora islands. Shortly afterward, we descried Luban
and Cabia or (Goat) islands. At ten in the morning, we dropped anchor
between the island of Corregidor, and the mountain of Marivales on the
island of Luconia or Luzon.
Our chronometers being useless, we were obliged for some time
previously to entering the China sea, to depend on our “dead
reckoning;” notwithstanding twenty-five or thirty miles a day was
allowed for a current setting to the eastward, after passing Pulo
Sapata, the allowance proved insufficient, as we had gained forty-five
miles over our reckoning. During the past month, the diarrhœa prevailed
among the crew, probably occasioned by a change of climate from cold to
extreme heat, from rainy weather, excess in fruit, and frequent change
in diet, but more particularly from the compulsory substitution of yams
for bread.
Before we anchored, the ship was boarded by a Spanish officer,
despatched by the Corregidor to make the usual inquiries. Our arrival
was communicated by telegraph to Manila. The officer’s boat was rowed
by sixteen Indians, and armed with four neat, small brass swivels,
small-arms, pikes, &c., to enable them to combat with the pirates who
occasionally frequent the bay, and to capture smugglers.
Having previously paid the commandant and family a visit, by whom we
were received in a most hospitable manner, we landed in the morning
at the base of Marivales, in search of adventure. The ship anchored
the following afternoon, in the roadstead of Manila, about four miles
from the low-stone lighthouse, situated at the embouchure of the river
Pasig, and being only twenty miles from our first anchorage-ground. On
the succeeding morning, the captain of the port paid the usual visita,
(visit,) accompanied by Mr. Henry Sturgis, of the very respectable
American house of Russell and Sturgis, and Mr. Edwards, the American
consul. Having received a kind invitation from these gentlemen, to take
up our abode with them, I moved on shore, bag and baggage, to the house
of the latter gentleman, finely situated at St. Cruz, opposite the city
of Manila, and directly upon the banks of that beautiful river.
[Sidenote: MANILA.]
The noble bay of Manila is about forty-five leagues in circumference
and nearly free from dangers; the scenery is of a varied character:
mountains and hills are discernible in the distance, from Marivales,
sweeping in a circle around the bay, till the most lofty form the
eastern boundary of the island, the shores of which are washed, on one
side, by the ocean, and on the other, by the waters of Lago de Bria;
from the lake flows that rapid steam, the Pasig, (pronounced Parseek,)
into the bay, at the distance of twelve miles, watering a rich extent
of low land.
The city of Manila lies on the south side of the river, and is enclosed
by dark stone-walls, having a broad and deep ditch; so high are the
city-walls, that only the red tiled-houses, and the towers and domes
of churches, can be seen in the distance above them. On entering the
city, you are struck with the stillness and gloomy appearance of the
streets, interrupted only occasionally by the march of soldiers going
to relieve guard in this garrisoned town, the rumbling of a solitary
carriage, the tinkling of a bell, announcing the approach of the host
on its way to administer the last religious rites to a dying sinner,
or a distant convent-bell summoning the religious to prayers. The
streets, although narrow, are kept clean, and have good “trottoirs;”
the great square in the centre of the city contains a fine bronze
statue of Charles the Fourth of Spain, erected by his _dutiful_ and
_affectionate son_, Ferdinand the beloved, so says the inscription on
the pedestal; three sides of the square are occupied by the cathedral
or church of the “Immaculate Conception,” the consistorial palace, and
the palace of the governor-general. Manila contains about ten thousand
souls, and is garrisoned by two regiments of soldiers; at Binonda,
St. Cruz, and the villages in the vicinity, three more are stationed,
besides three thousand placed in different parts of the island. Of
these, twelve hundred only are Europeans, the remainder being Indians;
they are well clothed, fed, lodged, drilled, and paid. The houses are
built in a quadrangular form and are very massive, having covered
balconies, from the second story, projecting over the street; they are
generally spacious, well-furnished, and neat; the ground-floor, called
the “bodega,” or “godown,” is occupied as a magazine for goods, as a
stable, and for other purposes. Instead of lattice-work or glass, the
_mya_ shell is used, set in frames about four inches square; it affords
a very agreeable light, equal to that passing through ground-glass; the
windows thus formed extend round the house, can be slid at pleasure,
and render the dwellings light and airy; the second story is of thin
brick, or light framework, and plastered; the roof is covered with
tile, the framework being so constructed that it will readily yield to
the shock of an earthquake, (which is of very frequent occurrence,)
without being easily thrown down. A very large proportion of the
buildings, in the towns and villages, are in the native style, being
for the most part, owing to the low swampy ground, erected on piles
from three to six feet high, and are constructed with the bamboo or
palm-leaf; the interior is much exposed to view, as the windows made
with palm-leaf or bamboo lattice, occupy three fourths of their fronts
and are let down at daylight.
Within them may be seen, in the evening, the Holy Virgin, surrounded
by lights and placed in a glass-case, dressed in a gay attire, holding
in her arms the infant Saviour; around her are seen the whole family,
at prayers, before retiring to rest, thanking her for the blessing
bestowed during the day and imploring her guardianship from all enemies
during the night; at other times, the inmates are chewing buyo or
areca nut, &c., smoking cigars, (of which they are immoderately fond,)
combing and oiling their long thick hair, or thrumming on the guitar
and singing. Sewing is but little attended to, as their dresses are
simple and their children are permitted to run about naked. They cook
twice daily on the outside of their houses; their fare consisting
principally of rice and some fruit, with an addition perhaps of a
fowl, some fish or _locusts_. All their washing is done at the river,
where they bathe daily. Every man among the Indians owns a game-cock,
and he frequently loses all he has, even to his waistcloth, in that
barbarous species of gambling, cock-fighting; the birds are armed with
scythe-shaped spurs, and one or both expire, generally, during the
first few rounds. The immense number of licensed cock-pits which are
found in every town and village, serves to show the prevalence of the
passion for this amusement.
Manila is connected with the towns on the right bank of the river, by
means of a single bridge, built very neatly of stone, the arch of which
was thrown down a few years since by an earthquake, and is rebuilt of
wood. The commerce of the city is carried on at the right side of the
river, at Binondo, St. Cruz, &c.; that side having the advantage of
numerous natural canals or branches, from the main river, on which are
situated extensive warehouses, so that the cascoes, which are large
boats, having moveable or sliding roofs, in sections of about six
feet in length, can land their goods immediately at the wharf without
exposure to the weather.
The city of Manila, within the walls, was computed by a census taken
in 1818, to contain a population of six thousand eight hundred and
seventy-five, exclusive of the military. Buildings which rent from
five to fourteen hundred dollars per annum, in Binondo, contiguous to
the river and its branches, will not in Manila, rent for more than
one fourth of that sum, owing to its want of water communication, yet
the government have very inconveniently placed the new and extensive
custom-house close to the city-walls. There are about seven thousand
Chinese settled here; all the Europeans, including the military, do
not exceed twenty-five hundred; the rest are Indians, who, were they
aware of their strength, might easily wipe from the face of existence,
the handful of Europeans and other foreigners, who hold them and their
lands in subjection.
Provisions are so low in value, that it is said four dollars
will furnish a labourer, in rice, &c., sufficient for his yearly
consumption. Labour is exceedingly low; the wages for a servant-man,
being from one to one and a half dollars per month. Rice has been
sold here for three quarters of a dollar the caban of one hundred and
thirty pounds: at this time it is double that price, in consequence of
vast quantities having been shipped to Canton. A person possessing the
immense sum of twenty-five dollars is considered, among the Indians,
as “passing rich,” and immediately quits labour to _keep shop_ in the
street, with a moveable stall, or in front of his bamboo-hut; the
_goods_ usually consist of burgo, alias areca nut, and betel-leaf,
well prepared with liquid chunam for immediate mastication, cocoa-nut
oil, a little coarse pottery, wooden shoes, palm-leaf hats, and
perhaps a few mats. A great number of the shops contain only the
first-named article, and the stock in trade may possibly amount to the
sum of two rials, (twenty-five cents;) here they sit cross-legged,
during the whole day, or, desiring a change, sideways, on a gridiron
bamboo-seat. I have frequently feared the whole stock in trade, would
be ejected into the street by their insatiable masticatory powers, but
occasionally seeing the havoc they are making, and fearful of becoming
bankrupts, they thrust a corner of one of the handspike cigars (which
are in common use) into their mouths and finish off the evening with
it.