The _Norfolk_ proceeds on her voyage
The Swan Isles; why so named
Waterhouse Isle
Discover Port Dalrymple
Account of the country within it
Natural productions
Animals
Sagacity and numbers of the black swan
Inhabitants; inferior to those of the continent
Range of the thermometer
Pass Table Cape
Circular head
Three Hummock Island
Albatross Island
Hunter's Isles
Proceed to the southward and westward
Leaving Furneaux's Islands, the _Norfolk_ proceeded toward the North
coast of Van Diemen's land; and on the 1st of November she anchored for a
tide at the largest of the Swan isles, two small islands so named by
Lieutenant Flinders, when he was here in the _Francis_, because a
European who belonged to the _Sydney Cove_ had assured him that he
had met with vast numbers of breeding swans upon them.
The isle at which the sloop anchored bore a great resemblance to
Preservation Island, being low, sandy, and barren, but differed from it
in the composition of its rocks, or that substance which formed the basis
of its support. This had not any affinity to granite, nor did Mr. Bass
remember to have seen any of a similar kind upon any part of New South
Wales. It was of various colours, but generally either a light brown, or
a sort of grey. It seemed to be lamellated, but the lamellae were placed
vertically, sometimes radiated with a diameter of four or five feet, and
sometimes they were placed parallel. Upon breaking the stone, the
fracture was vitreous, or like that of glass, and it scintillated on
steel being applied. Rust of iron was visible in several parts, the
stone breaking easily in those parts into plates correspondent to the
length and direction of the rust; but where that was not, it broke with
great difficulty. On the first view, the stone looked like a clay; but as
it produced fire with steel, there must have been a large portion of
flint in it. It appeared to contain iron in rather a large quantity, and
probably some other metallic substances.
Notwithstanding the information given by the European, not a single swan
was found upon the island; but several geese were breeding there, and the
sooty petrel possessed the grassy parts; the swans of the sailor, in this
instance, therefore, turned out to be geese. This bird had been seen
before upon Preservation Island, and was either a Brent or a Barnacle
goose, or between the two. It had a long and slender neck, with a small
short head, and a rounded crown; a short, thick arched bill, partly
covered with a pea-green membrane which soon shrivelled up, and came
away in the dried specimens. Its plumage was, for the most part, of a
dove colour, set with black spots. It had a deep, hoarse, clanging, and,
though a short, yet an inflected voice. In size it was rather less than
our tame geese, and lived upon grass. The flesh was excellent.
Early in the morning of the first of November they left the Swan Isles,
steering to the westward along shore. At nine o'clock the north coast of
Van Diemen's land lay extended from about SE by E to West, the nearest
part of it being distant two and a half or three miles. Its general
trending seemed to be about ESE and WNW with a small island lying off the
western extreme. The shores were chiefly beaches, the front land was of a
moderate height, the back was mountainous. One ridge of mountains that
bore south was very high and rugged, and from the white patches in it was
concluded to be rocky and barren.
If any judgment could be hazarded of the quality of the country, at the
distance the sloop was at, it might be supposed, from the beauty of the
lower head-land, to be somewhat above mediocrity. Extensive tracts of
open ground that come down towards the sea in gradual green slopes were
varied by clumps of wood and large single trees.
A column of smoke that arose some few miles inland, was the only sign of
its being inhabited.
At noon the latitude was 40 degrees 44 minutes 08 seconds, the peak of
Cape Barren Island then in sight. At this time they were two miles to
the westward of the small island, which was low and rocky, lying about
two miles and a half off a sharp, sandy point, with which it was nearly
connected by some lumps of rock that almost closed up the passage.
A long curved line of ripple extended to the northward.
The aspect of the low land here became less pleasing, the mountains
approaching nearer to the sea, and the country appearing to be more
wooded. The coast seemed inclined to a more southerly direction, and the
western extremity, which bore SW by W, appeared broken, like Islands.
At five in the afternoon they anchored two miles and a half to the
westward of the small island, it being calm, and the tide of ebb setting
the vessel to the Northward.
They weighed at nine the next morning with an easterly wind, and steered
in towards a small break that presented itself in the bottom of an
extensive but not deep bay, or rather bight, lying between the two
extremes then in view. The break was not sufficiently distinct to have
justified in itself alone a reasonable supposition of an inlet, but that
it was corroborated by the direction of the ebb tide, which, while the
sloop was at anchor, was observed to come from the SSW or directly out of
the bight, running at the rate of two miles and a half per hour. By noon,
it being ascertained that there was not any inlet, they bore away to the
Westward along the land.
Their distance from the shore did not exceed a mile and a half. The back
country consisted of high hummocky mountains, whose parallel edges were
lying elevated one above another to a considerable distance inland. The
land in front was woody and bushy, of a moderate height, but sandy.
At three in the afternoon they ran through between a sandy point, with
shoal water off it, and two islands. One of these, named Waterhouse Isle,
is between two and three miles in length, rather high, but level, and
covered with large wood. The other is small, low, rocky, and almost bare.
The coast now trended to the SSW the land sloping up gradually from the
sea to a moderate height, with more open than wooded ground, and but
little brush; but the soil appeared sandy, and the grass but thinly
grown. The hummocky mountains still retained their general figure in the
more interior parts.
As they proceeded, the shore no longer preserved any regular line of
direction, but fell back into sandy bights. Hauling off for the night, a
little to the westward of a small rocky and barren island, lying about
four miles from the land, at six o'clock the following morning they came
in with it again, near where they had left it the preceding evening, and
began their course along the shore, which trended to the SSW in an
irregular manner, with a sandy country at its back.
At eleven o'clock they passed within a mile of a high grassy cape, which
is the seaward extremity of a ridge, that, rising up by a gentle ascent,
retreats and joins some chains of lofty mountains. A small rocky island
lay two miles from it to the WSW. At noon the latitude was 40 degrees 55
minutes 25 seconds, and the longitude 147 degrees 16 minutes 30 seconds.
Early in the afternoon a gap in the land situated at the back of a deep
narrow bight, which had for some time attracted attention, began to
assume the appearance of an inlet, which they bore away to examine; and,
after running three miles, they found they had shut in the line of the
coast on each side, and were impelled forward by a strong inset of tide.
Continuing their course for the gap, some back points within the entrance
soon became distinguishable, and the rapidity of the flood tide was
observed to increase with the increasing contiguity of the shores. When
the sloop was on the point of entering the harbour, which appeared to be
fairly open before her, the water shoaled suddenly, and she struck the
ground and lay fast; but fortunately the strong flood in a few minutes
dragged her over into deep water, and shot her into the entrance with
uncommon velocity.
Having advanced within the entrance, the harbour began to expand itself
in a kind of large basin. Its shores were broken into points and
projections, between some of which the great strength of the flood tide
led them to expect it would branch off into arms. The land lying
immediately upon its borders was low, but not flat; well wooded; and
those points near which the sloop passed were clothed with a very unusual
degree of verdure. The sun being down, the vessel was anchored for the
night, and the next day they proceeded with their researches.
They were employed during sixteen days in the examination of this place;
and the result of the observations which were made by Mr. Bass in
different parts of it, and the neighbouring country, are thrown by that
gentleman into one general account.
This harbour, or inlet, which was named by the governor Port Dalrymple,
in compliment to Alexander Dalrymple, esq takes its course from the SE
between two chains of rounded mountains, stretching inland from the sea
with an almost imperceptible increase of elevation; and, after gradually
approximating each other, seemed to unite, at the distance of between
thirty and forty miles, in a body of rugged mountains more lofty than
themselves. These two chains in their relative positions formed an acute
angle, being at their greatest distance asunder, as measured along the
sea coast, only sixteen miles.
Being limited in point of time (twelve weeks having been deemed by the
governor sufficient for the execution of this service), the apprehension
of losing a wind favourable for the prosecution of the principal object
of the voyage, that of sailing through the strait, deterred them from
attempting to reach the head of the river; but it was hardly to be
doubted, that its principal source proceeded from some part near the
point of union of the two chains of mountains. Allowing this supposition,
a great part of its stream must be perfectly fresh; for at the place
where they ended their examination, which was not more than half the
whole supposed distance or length of the river, it had become half fresh
half salt, although its breadth was from half a mile to a mile and a
half, and its depth eight or nine fathoms.
The country which Mr. Bass had an opportunity of observing, was a certain
portion of that lying within the angle formed by the two chains of
mountains, and more especially of the parts which lay contiguous to the
water, rather than of those situated in the vicinity of the chains.
The quality of the ground, taking it in the aggregate, was much superior
to that of the borders of any of the salt water inlets of New South
Wales, Western Port excepted (seen by Mr Bass on his first excursion in
the whale boat). The vegetable mould was, however, found to be of no
great depth, and was sometimes, perhaps advantageously, mixed with small
quantities of sand.
The best of the soil was found upon the sides of sloping hills, and in
the broad valleys between them. Some parts that were low and level had a
wet and peat-like surface, bounded by small tracts of flowering shrubs
and odoriferous plants, that perfumed the air with the fragrance of their
oils.* These retained in general the appearance of those in New South
Wales, while they were in reality very different. The rich and vivid
colouring of the more northern flowers, and that soft and exquisite
gradation of their tints, for which they are so singularly distinguished
hold with those here, but in a less eminent degree. The two countries
present a perfect similarity in this, that the more barren spots are the
most gaily adorned. The curious florist, and scientific botanist, would
find ample subject of exultation in their different researches in Port
Dalrymple.
[* In this particular they differ from the flowering shrubs of
New South Wales; none or very few of which were ever found, beautiful
as they were in other respects, to possess the smallest particle of
odour.]
Except in these places, the grass grows not in tufts, but covers the land
equally with a short nutritious herbage, better adapted, possibly, to the
bite of small than of large cattle. The food for the latter grows in the
bottoms of the valleys and upon the damp flats. A large proportion of the
soil promised a fair return to the labours of the cultivator, and a
lesser ensures an ample reward; but the greater part would perhaps be
more advantageously employed, if left for pasturage, than if thrown into
cultivation; it would be poor as the one, but rich as the other.
Water was found in runs more than in ponds, and, though not abundant, was
far from being scarce.
The west side of the river furnishes the largest quantity of the best
ground, because the mountains on that side are at a greater distance than
those on the east. The country lying near the west arm is chiefly rather
flat, and might be converted to many useful purposes, both in agriculture
and in pasturage, for which last it is probably well calculated. If it
should ever be proposed to make a settlement here, this part seems to
merit very particular attention.
The best land seems to be that fine hilly country which lies at the back
of an island named Middle-island; but access to it is not easy on account
of a large shoal extending along its front, which is dry at low water, as
far out as the island itself. The shape of the land is very pleasingly
variegated with hill and valley; the soil is in general a rich black
mould, shallow, and even sometimes a little stony upon the hills, but in
the valleys is of abundant depth and richness. A close coat of grass of a
uniform thickness over-spreads it every where. It appears to be watered
only by swampy ponds, which in many places are at some distance from each
other; but it is hardly to be doubted, that wells sunk in the valleys
would furnish water sufficient for all domestic purposes.
In sailing up the river, the points and shores present an appearance of
fertility that astonishes an eye used to those of the rocky harbours of
New South Wales. They are mostly grassed as well as wooded close down to
the water side, the wood, perhaps, thin; the grass every where thick,
every where a dark luxuriant vegetation, that, either from the thinness
of the wood, or the gradual rounding of the hills and points, is visible
to a very considerable extent of ground.
The tides run so uncommonly rapid, that if the port were colonised, and
the principal town built, as it no doubt would be, near the entrance, the
produce of the villages and farms scattered along its banks might be
brought to market with the greatest ease, expedition, and certainty.
The heavy timber is chiefly gum tree of various species; of which two are
different from any that have been yet seen in this country. Nothing new
was observed in the quality of the wood; but, from the few trees that
were felled, it was thought to be more sound at heart than they are
usually met with. The she oaks were more inclined to spread than grow
tall. The smaller trees and shrubs resemble, with some variety, those of
the continent.* The tree producing the yellow gum is of a very diminutive
size; but, unlike that of Cape Barren island, it bears a reed
correspondent to itself. These were going into flower, and their length
was only from nine inches to two feet.**
[* Mr. Pennant allows its claim to this distinction. Vide Pennant's
'Outlines of the Globe.']
[** This dwarf gum tree is of much use to the natives of New
South Wales, as may be seen by the following distribution of its
properties. The gum from the body of the tree, which they term
Goolgad-ye, is used for repairing their canoes. Of the reed they make a
fiz-gig, which they call Moo-ting. Of the grass or rushes which grow at
the top of the tree, they make torches, named Boo-do. A gum which they
extract from these rushes, and which is named Wangye, they use in
fastening the joints of their spears; and from the centre of the tree
they procure a loathsome worm, which they call Boo-roo-gal, and deem a
great luxury. The tree itself is named Ye-gal.]
The few rocky shores of the river presented nothing remarkable, being
generally either of a rough iron-stone, or a soft grid-stone.
The grey kangaroo of a very large size, abounded in the open forest; the
brushes were tenanted by the smaller black kind, or, as it is named by
the natives of Port Jackson, the Wal-li-bah.
The plumage of the parrots forms a gloomy contrast with the rich lustre
of those near the settlement, their colours being rather grave than gay.
The melancholy cry of the bell-bird (dil boong, after which Bennillong
named his infant child) seems to be unknown here. Many aquatic birds,
both web-footed and waders, frequent the arms and coves of the river; but
the black swans alone are remarkable in point of number. Mr. Bass once
made a rough calculation of three hundred swimming within the space of a
quarter of a mile square; and heard the 'dying song' of some scores; that
song, so celebrated by the poets of former times, exactly resembled the
creaking of a rusty sign on a windy day! Not more than two thirds of any
of the flocks which they fell in with could fly, the rest could do no
more than flap along upon the surface of the water, being either
moulting, or not yet come to their full feather and growth, which they
require two years to attain. They swam and flapped alternately, and went
along surprisingly fast. It was some times a long chase, but the boat
generally tired them out. When in danger, and speed makes no part of
their escape, they immerse their bodies so far, that the water makes a
passage between their neck and back, and in this position they would
frequently turn aside a heavy load of shot. They seemed to be endowed
with much sagacity; in chase they soon learned the weakest point of their
pursuers, and, instead of swimming directly from them, as they did at
first, always endeavoured in the most artful manner to gain the wind,
which could only be prevented by anticipating their movements, and by a
dexterous management of the boat.
The swan is said to feed upon fish, frogs, and water-slugs; but in the
gizzards of many that at different times and in different places were
examined by Mr. Bass, nothing ever appeared but small water plants,
mostly a kind of broad leaved grass, and some little sand. To their
affection for their young he had seen some lamentable sacrifices; but of
their fierceness, at least when opposed to man, or their great strength,
he had seen no instance.
Among other reptiles were found the snake with venomous fangs, and some
large brown guanoes.
This country is inhabited by men; and, if any judgment could be formed
from the number of huts which they met, in about the same proportion as
in New South Wales. Their extreme shyness prevented any communication.
They never even got sight of them but once, and then at a great distance.
They had made fires abreast of where the sloop was at anchor; but as soon
as the boat approached the shore they ran off into the woods. Their
huts, of which seven or eight were frequently found together like a
little encampment, were constructed of bark torn in long stripes from
some neighbouring tree, after being divided transversely at the bottom,
in such breadths as they judge their strength would be able to disengage
from its adherence to the wood, and the connecting bark on each side. It
is then broken into convenient lengths, and placed, slopingwise, against
the elbowing part of some dead branch that has fallen off from the
distorted limbs of the gum tree; and a little grass is sometimes thrown
over the top. But, after all their labour, they have not ingenuity
sufficient to place the slips of bark in such a manner as to preclude the
free admission of the rain. It is somewhat strange, that in the latitude
of 41 degrees, want should not have sharpened their ideas to the
invention of some more convenient habitation, especially since they have
been left by nature without the confined dwelling of a hollow tree, or
the more agreeable accommodation of a hole under the rock.
The single utensil that was observed lying near their huts was a kind of
basket made of long wiry grass, that grows along the shores of the river.
The two ends of a large bunch of this grass are tied to the two ends of a
smaller bunch; the large one is then spread out to form the basket, while
the smaller answers the purpose of a handle. Their apparent use is, to
bring shell fish from the mud banks where they are to be collected. The
large heaps of mussel shells that were found near each hut proclaimed the
mud banks to be a principal source of food. The most scrupulous
examination of their fire places discovered nothing, except a few bones
of the opossum, a squirrel, and here and there those of a small kangaroo.
No remains of fish were even seen.
The mode of taking the opossum seemed to be similar to that practised in
New South Wales*, except that it is probable they use a rope in ascending
the tree; for once, at the foot of a notched tree, about eight feet of a
two inch rope made of grass was found with a knot in it, near which it
appeared to have broken.
[* Vide Vol I Appendix II.]
A canoe was never met with, and concurring circumstances showed
that this convenience was unknown here; nor was any tree ever observed
to be barked in the manner requisite for this purpose; though birds
bred upon little islands to which access might be had in the smallest
canoe. Those made of solid timber seemed to be wholly out of the
question. The roughness of the notches left by the stone hatchet upon
the bark of the trees bore no very favourable testimony to its
excellence. They were rather the marks of a rough than of a sharp-edged
tool, and seemed more beaten than cut, which was not the case with the
marks left by the mo-go, or stone hatchet, of New South Wales.
Hence, from the little that has been seen of the condition of our own
species in this place, it appears to be much inferior in some essential
points of convenience to that of the despised inhabitants of the
continent. How miserable a being would the latter be, his canoe taken
from him, his stone hatchet blunted, his hut pervious to the smallest
shower of rain, and few or no excavations in the rocks to fly to! But
happiness, like every thing else, exists only by comparison with the
stage above and the stage below our own. The circumstances which
occasioned this difference between the people of two countries so near to
each other, and so much alike in their natural productions, must remain
hidden from our observation, until perhaps some permanent European
settlement shall be made in Van Diemen's land.
The range of the thermometer, taken in various parts of the port, was at
night from 49 degrees to 52 degrees, and at noon from 58 degrees to 64
degrees.
On the 20th of November they left Port Dalrymple with a light breeze at
NE and proceeded very slowly to the westward. At daylight the following
morning, the wind shifted to the W by N which drove them back to
Furneaux's islands, where, the gale continuing at west, they were kept
until the 3rd of December, when they were enabled to proceed to the
westward. The land here trended to the WNW as far as was visible through
the haze, which allowed them only to distinguish that it was high and
uneven. At noon the latitude was 40 degrees 58 minutes, and the longitude
146 degrees 44 minutes. Their progress was slow, and unavoidably at too
great a distance from the shore to form any just idea of the country; but
what was seen of it appeared high and mountainous, the mountains forming
into hummocks and low peaks, to which a few large shapeless knobs added a
great singularity of appearance. On the haze clearing away, and the shore
being distinctly seen, it appeared rocky, but wooded nearly down to the
water's edge. Here and there were seen spaces of open ground, some of
which sloped toward the sea, and had a few large trees growing
irregularly upon them. A remarkable peaked mountain, some few miles
inland, might have been thought, from its shape and height, to have been
once a volcano. A very singular lump of high level, or table land, lay at
a few miles to the westward in the coast line; and at some distance
beyond it, a point appeared with three knobs of land lying off it,
resembling islands. This land was named Table Cape.
To the extreme eastern point of this land, a fine easterly breeze had
brought them at daylight of the 6th; when they found that what they had
on the preceding evening taken to be islands were three lumps or ridges
of the point itself, lessening in bulk as they advanced toward its
seaward extremity. The very uncommon figure of this point may perhaps be
best conceived by comparing it to a spear with several barbs. It was
extremely barren and rocky. Beyond the point, the coast trended more
northerly, but fell back into an extensive bay, with a sandy beach in its
rear. The western point of this bay was formed by a high, steep, and
round bluff, named Circular Head, that might easily be taken for an
island, but was a peninsula. The land behind was of moderate height, and
rose gradually from the sea. It was clothed in a poor coat of either
grass or short brush; among which were seen some dwarf gum trees, that
appeared to be in a sickly and dying state, apparently for want of
sufficient soil to expand in.
Towards noon, soon after passing Circular Head, the outermost land in
sight stretched so far to the northward, that the course to clear it was
NNW. It formed like two hummocks, and in steering for it they were
compelled to leave a large bight unexamined. The coast at its back was
too distant to form any judgment of it, except in the general outline.
Its westernmost part seemed broken and intersected, like islands and
gaps; but, as the wind blew fresh and directly into it, they passed on.
Nothing new presented itself on the following day, but some small flights
of sooty petrels.
On the 8th, being threatened with a gale, they came to anchor under the
land, off a small beach on its NE part, where the SW wind could not
molest the vessel. Here Mr. Bass landed to examine the country, but found
it impenetrable. The tall sturdy brush wood grew so close that their dogs
could hardly make their way through it. Large patches appeared to have
been burnt many months ago, but the small brush and creeping vines only
were destroyed; the closeness of the blackened saplings were still
irresistible. A few starved gum trees erected their sickly heads above
the brush, and the whole wore an aspect of poverty which the sandy soil
confirmed. And yet this place was inhabited by men, as was shown by the
old fire places strewed round with shells of the sea ear. The rocks were
composed of quartz, probably a species of granite, but much unlike that
which formed Furneaux's Islands.
Leaving this place on the 9th, they steered for the outermost land in
sight, which bore to the southward of west, and was distant three or four
leagues. After rounding the seaward end of the land under which they had
anchored, its shores fell back, and at last discovered to them that it
was an island of from fifteen to twenty miles in circuit, and situated
between four and five from the main. It was with the greatest
astonishment that they recollected the fire places and sea shells which
they had the preceding evening seen upon the island. That the inhabitants
of this part of Van Diemen's land should possess canoes capable of
crossing over four or five miles of open sea, while those of Port
Dalrymple were without any, seemed highly improbable. The island itself
was certainly unequal to the maintenance of any settled inhabitants, and
yet there were unequivocal vestiges of men upon it. Long and frequent
reflection upon facts in themselves so contradictory had never produced
any rational solution of the difficulty. This island took the descriptive
name of Three Hummock Island.
For several hours during the early part of the morning, a vast stream of
sooty petrels issued from the deep bight which had been left unexplored,
and passed the vessel on their way to the westward. There must have been
some millions of birds. Thence they were well assured there was at least
one island in that bight, if not more than one, as they had imagined.
Having passed within a mile of a pointed part of the main, which in
height and starved vegetation very much resembled Three Hummock island,
towards noon they came up with some land, which proved to be a small
island, high and very steep; and a long swell, which had just before made
its first appearance, broke violently upon it, making a furious surf on
all sides. Its summit was whitened over with birds. With some difficulty
a landing was effected at the foot of a chasm filled up with loose
stones; and, after a slight rencontre with some seals that stood above,
they reached the top. The birds they found were albatrosses innumerable.
The spread of their wings was from seven to nine feet. Their colour was
more white than black, and the appearance of their visitors did not
occasion much disturbance among them, even when they approached close to
them. This was the season of their breeding. The females sat upon nests
not more than a foot and a half apart, built of muddy earth, bound with
coarse grass, raised about four inches from the ground, and formed into a
concavity of nearly that depth, with a diameter of five or six inches.
One young bird only was in each nest: it was of the size of a small
pullet, but at that time covered with a beautifully white down. The
shapeless lump at some distance resembled a ball of cotton. Some nests
held an addled egg of a dingy white colour, and equal in size to that of
a goose. The nests were so near each other, and the birds so conscious of
the great strength of their sharp bills, that in going through them the
voyagers were obliged to make use of their seal clubs, to procure
themselves a passage. Even the young ones spouted plentiful mouthfuls of
a not inodorous oil upon them.
The island, which obtained the name of Albatross Island, was a mere mass
of stone, without any other vegetation than a few tufts of coarse grass.
Besides albatrosses, it afforded shelter to a few scores of hair seals,
and the large gull. The latitude was 40 degrees 24 minutes, the longitude
145 degrees 02 minutes.
Several other islands were seen to the southward, and the coast of the
main seemed trending in the same direction. A deep bight lay at the back
of these islands, with points and openings visible in its most distant
part. There was reason to believe, that the sea here had a communication
through into the unexplored bight to the eastward of Three Hummock
Island; in which case the pointed part of the main, whose vegetation bore
so great a resemblance to that of Three Hummock island, would also be an
island. They passed sufficiently near to determine that they were high,
steep, and difficult of access. Their tops and sloping parts were grown
over with either coarse grass or short brush; but not any trees appeared.
The largest might be seven or eight miles in circuit, the smaller were
mere masses of rock of various sizes; and the whole cluster, in number
about twelve, including Three Hummock Island, obtained the name of
Hunter's Isles.
A fresh gale at ENE and a heavy swell from the SW drove the vessel fast
to the southward and westward; and on the 11th, the gale having
moderated, they stretched in for the land, a large extent of which was
indistinctly visible through a light haze that hung about the horizon. At
noon the latitude was 41 degrees 13 minutes, and the longitude 148
degrees 58 minutes. With a fresh breeze at NNE they bore away along the
shore, which trends to the SE by E and was distant three or four miles.
From a shore of beach, with short rocky points at intervals, the land
rose gradually to a considerable height, the aspect of which was barren
and brushy, and the soil sandy. Several short reefs of rocks lay in front
of the beaches, and broke the long swell into a surf of a tremendous
appearance.
Dreading a gale of wind from the west, which was threatening, and might
have proved fatal to their little vessel, they hauled out to the SSW; but
the weather remained moderate.
On the following morning the wind flew round to the northward, and they
continued their route along the shore. Early in the forenoon they passed
a singularly formed point, with a number of lumps of rock lying some two
or three miles off it to the SW. It resembled an artificial pier, or
mole, with warehouses upon it, and a lighthouse on the end next the
water. Large masses of detached oblong rocks gave the appearance of
warehouses, and a remarkably long one standing upon its end, that of the
light-house.
Their latitude at noon was 42 degrees 02 minutes and the longitude 145
degrees 16 minutes; the coast still trended to the SSE and the land began
to change that uniformly regular figure which it had hitherto preserved.
It was becoming mountainous and uneven, but was still barren.