My conversation with the Moor set me to musing on the fate of Boabdil.

Never was surname more applicable than that bestowed upon him by his

subjects of el Zogoybi, or the Unlucky. His misfortunes began almost in

his cradle, and ceased not even with his death. If ever he cherished the

desire of leaving an honourable name on the historic page, how cruelly has

he been defrauded of his hopes! Who is there that has turned the least

attention to the romantic history of the Moorish domination in Spain,

without kindling with indignation at the alleged atrocities of Boabdil?

Who has not been touched with the woes of his lovely and gentle queen,

subjected by him to a trial of life and death, on a false charge of

infidelity? Who has not been shocked by his alleged murder of his sister

and her two children, in a transport of passion? Who has not felt his

blood boil at the inhuman massacre of the gallant Abencerrages, thirty-six

of whom, it is affirmed, he ordered to be beheaded in the Court of Lions?

All these charges have been reiterated in various forms; they have passed

into ballads, dramas, and romances, until they have taken too thorough

possession of the public mind to be eradicated. There is not a foreigner

of education that visits the Alhambra, but asks for the fountain where the

Abencerrages were beheaded; and gazes with horror at the grated gallery

where the queen is said to have been confined; not a peasant of the Vega

or the Sierra, but sings the story in rude couplets, to the accompaniment

of his guitar, while his hearers learn to execrate the very name of

Boabdil.

Never, however, was name more foully and unjustly slandered. I have

examined all the authentic chronicles and letters written by Spanish

authors, contemporary with Boabdil; some of whom were in the confidence of

the Catholic sovereigns, and actually present in the camp throughout the

war. I have examined all the Arabian authorities I could get access to,

through the medium of translation, and have found nothing to justify these

dark and hateful accusations. The most of these tales may be traced to a

work commonly called _The Civil Wars of Granada_, containing a pretended

history of the feuds of the Zegries and Abencerrages, during the last

struggle of the Moorish empire. The work appeared originally in Spanish,

and professed to be translated from the Arabic by one Gines Perez de Hita,

an inhabitant of Murcia. It has since passed into various languages, and

Florian has taken from it much of the fable of his Gonsalvo of Cordova:

it has thus, in a great measure, usurped the authority of real history,

and is currently believed by the people, and especially the peasantry of

Granada. The whole of it, however, is a mass of fiction, mingled with

a few disfigured truths, which give it an air of veracity. It bears

internal evidence of its falsity; the manners and customs of the Moors

being extravagantly misrepresented in it, and scenes depicted totally

incompatible with their habits and their faith, and which never could have

been recorded by a Mohammedan writer.

[Illustration]

I confess there seems to me something almost criminal in the wilful

perversions of this work: great latitude is undoubtedly to be allowed to

romantic fiction, but there are limits which it must not pass; and the

names of the distinguished dead, which belong to history, are no more

to be calumniated than those of the illustrious living. One would have

thought, too, that the unfortunate Boabdil had suffered enough for his

justifiable hostility to the Spaniards, by being stripped of his kingdom,

without having his name thus wantonly traduced, and rendered a byword

and a theme of infamy in his native land, and in the very mansion of his

fathers!

[Illustration: _Entrance to Hall of Abencerrages_]

[Illustration]

MEMENTOES OF BOABDIL

While my mind was still warm with the subject of the unfortunate Boabdil,

I set forth to trace the mementoes of him still existing in this scene

of his sovereignty and misfortunes. In the tower of Comares, immediately

under the Hall of Ambassadors, are two vaulted rooms, separated by a

narrow passage; these are said to have been the prisons of himself and his

mother, the virtuous Ayxa la Horra; indeed, no other part of the tower

would have served for the purpose. The external walls of these chambers

are of prodigious thickness, pierced with small windows secured by iron

bars. A narrow stone gallery, with a low parapet, extends along three

sides of the tower just below the windows, but at a considerable height

from the ground. From this gallery, it is presumed, the queen lowered

her son with the scarves of herself and her female attendants during

the darkness of the night to the hill-side, where some of his faithful

adherents waited with fleet steeds to bear him to the mountains.

Between three and four hundred years have elapsed, yet this scene of the

drama remains almost unchanged. As I paced the gallery, my imagination

pictured the anxious queen leaning over the parapet, listening, with the

throbbings of a mother's heart, to the last echoes of the horse's hoofs

as her son scoured along the narrow valley of the Darro.

[Illustration]

I next sought the gate by which Boabdil made his last exit from the

Alhambra, when about to surrender his capital and kingdom. With the

melancholy caprice of a broken spirit, or perhaps with some superstitious

feeling, he requested of the Catholic monarchs that no one afterwards

might be permitted to pass through it. His prayer, according to ancient

chronicles, was complied with, through the sympathy of Isabella, and the

gate was walled up.

I inquired for some time in vain for such a portal; at length my humble

attendant, Mateo Ximenes, said it must be one closed up with stones,

which, according to what he had heard from his father and grandfather,

was the gateway by which King Chico had left the fortress. There was a

mystery about it, and it had never been opened within the memory of the

oldest inhabitant.

He conducted me to the spot. The gateway is in the centre of what was

once an immense pile, called the Tower of the Seven Floors (_la Torre

de los siete suelos_). It is famous in the neighbourhood as the scene

of strange apparitions and Moorish enchantments. According to Swinburne

the traveller, it was originally the great gate of entrance. The

antiquaries of Granada pronounce it the entrance to that quarter of the

royal residence where the king's bodyguards were stationed. It therefore

might well form an immediate entrance and exit to the palace; while the

grand Gate of Justice served as the entrance of state to the fortress.

When Boabdil sallied by this gate to descend to the Vega, where he was

to surrender the keys of the city to the Spanish sovereigns, he left his

vizier Aben Comixa to receive, at the gate of Justice, the detachment from

the Christian army and the officers to whom the fortress was to be given

up.

[Illustration]

The once redoubtable Tower of the Seven Floors is now a mere wreck,

having been blown up with gunpowder by the French, when they abandoned

the fortress. Great masses of the wall lie scattered about, buried in

luxuriant herbage, or overshadowed by vines and fig-trees. The arch of

the gateway, though rent by the shock, still remains; but the last wish

of poor Boabdil has again, though unintentionally, been fulfilled, for

the portal has been closed up by loose stones gathered from the ruins,

and remains impassable.

[Illustration]

Mounting my horse, I followed up the route of the Moslem monarch from this

place of his exit. Crossing the hill of Los Martyros, and keeping along

the garden-wall of a convent bearing the same name, I descended a rugged

ravine beset by thickets of aloes and Indian figs, and lined with caves

and hovels swarming with gipsies. The descent was so steep and broken

that I was fain to alight and lead my horse. By this _via dolorosa_ poor

Boabdil took his sad departure to avoid passing through the city; partly,

perhaps, through unwillingness that its inhabitants should behold his

humiliation; but chiefly, in all probability, lest it might cause some

popular agitation. For the last reason, undoubtedly, the detachment sent

to take possession of the fortress ascended by the same route.

[Illustration]

Emerging from this rough ravine, so full of melancholy associations, and

passing by the _puerta de los molinos_ (the gate of the mills), I issued

forth upon the public promenade called the Prado; and pursuing the course

of the Xenil, arrived at a small chapel, once a mosque, now the Hermitage

of San Sebastian. Here, according to tradition, Boabdil surrendered

the keys of Granada to King Ferdinand. I rode slowly thence across the

Vega to a village where the family and household of the unhappy king

awaited him, for he had sent them forward on the preceding night from the

Alhambra, that his mother and wife might not participate in his personal

humiliation, or be exposed to the gaze of the conquerors. Following on in

the route of the melancholy band of royal exiles, I arrived at the foot of

a chain of barren and dreary heights, forming the skirt of the Alpuxarra

Mountains. From the summit of one of these the unfortunate Boabdil took

his last look at Granada; it bears a name expressive of his sorrows, _La

Cuesta de las Lagrimas_ (the hill of tears). Beyond it, a sandy road winds

across a rugged cheerless waste, doubly dismal to the unhappy monarch, as

it led to exile.

[Illustration]

I spurred my horse to the summit of a rock, where Boabdil uttered his last

sorrowful exclamation, as he turned his eyes from taking their farewell

gaze: it is still denominated _el ultimo suspiro del Moro_ (the last sigh

of the Moor). Who can wonder at his anguish at being expelled from such a

kingdom and such an abode? With the Alhambra he seemed to be yielding up

all the honours of his line, and all the glories and delights of life.

[Illustration]

It was here, too, that his affliction was embittered by the reproach of

his mother, Ayxa, who had so often assisted him in times of peril, and had

vainly sought to instil into him her own resolute spirit. "You do well,"

said she, "to weep as a woman over what you could not defend as a man;"

a speech savouring more of the pride of the princess than the tenderness

of the mother.

When this anecdote was related to Charles V., by Bishop Guevara, the

emperor joined in the expression of scorn at the weakness of the wavering

Boabdil. "Had I been he, or he been I," said the haughty potentate,

"I would rather have made this Alhambra my sepulchre than have lived

without a kingdom in the Alpuxarra." How easy it is for those in power

and prosperity to preach heroism to the vanquished! how little can they

understand that life itself may rise in value with the unfortunate when

naught but life remains!

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

Slowly descending the "Hill of Tears," I let my horse take his own

loitering gait back to Granada, while I turned the story of the

unfortunate Boabdil over in my mind. In summing up the particulars, I

found the balance inclining in his favour. Throughout the whole of his

brief, turbulent, and disastrous reign, he gives evidence of a mild and

amiable character. He, in the first instance, won the hearts of his people

by his affable and gracious manners; he was always placable, and never

inflicted any severity of punishment upon those who occasionally rebelled

against him. He was personally brave, but wanted moral courage; and, in

times of difficulty and perplexity, was wavering and irresolute. This

feebleness of spirit hastened his downfall, while it deprived him of that

heroic grace which would have given grandeur and dignity to his fate, and

rendered him worthy of closing the splendid drama of the Moslem domination

in Spain.

[Illustration: _Rubbing from the Commemorative Plaque in the wall of the

Hermitage of San Sebastian._]

[Illustration: _Pass of Lope._]

THE HOUSE OF THE WEATHERCOCK

On the brow of the lofty hill of the Albaycin, the highest part of

Granada, and which rises from the narrow valley of the Darro, directly

opposite to the Alhambra, stands all that is left of what was once a

royal palace of the Moors. It has, in fact, fallen into such obscurity,

that it cost me much trouble to find it, though aided in my researches by

the sagacious and all-knowing Mateo Ximenes. This edifice has borne for

centuries the name of "The House of the Weathercock" (_La casa del Gallo

de Viento_), from a bronze figure on one of its turrets, in ancient times,

of a warrior on horseback, and turning with every breeze. This weathercock

was considered by the Moslems of Granada a portentous talisman. According

to some traditions, it bore the following Arabic inscription:

_Calet el Bedici Aben Habuz,

Quidat ehahet Lindabuz._

Which has been rendered into Spanish:

_Dice el sabio Aben Habuz,

Que asi se defiende el Anduluz._

And into English:

In this way, says Aben Habuz the Wise,

Andaluz guards against surprise.

This Aben Habuz, according to some of the old Moorish chronicles, was a

captain in the invading army of Taric, one of the conquerors of Spain,

who left him as _Alcayde_ of Granada. He is supposed to have intended this

effigy as a perpetual warning to the Moslems of Andaluz, that, surrounded

by foes, their safety depended upon their being always on their guard and

ready for the field.

[Illustration: _The Alhambra, from the Albaycin._]

[Illustration]

Others, among whom is the Christian historian Marmol, affirms "_Badis Aben

Habus_" to have been a Moorish sultan of Granada, and that the weathercock

was intended as a perpetual admonition of the instability of Moslem power,

bearing the following words in Arabic:

"Thus _Ibn Habus al badise_ predicts Andaluz shall one day vanish and pass

away."

Another version of this portentous inscription is given by a Moslem

historian, on the authority of Sidi Hasan, a _faquir_ who flourished about

the time of Ferdinand and Isabella, and who was present at the taking down

of the weathercock, when the old Kassaba was undergoing repairs.

"I saw it," says the venerable _faquir_, "with my own eyes; it was of a

heptagonal shape, and had the following inscription in verse:

"The palace at fair Granada presents a talisman."

"The horseman, though a solid body, turns with every wind."

"This to a wise man reveals a mystery. In a little while comes a

calamity to ruin both the palace and its owner."

In effect it was not long after this meddling with the portentous

weathercock that the following event occurred. As old Muley Abul Hassan,

the king of Granada, was seated under a sumptuous pavilion, reviewing his

troops, who paraded before him in armour of polished steel and gorgeous

silken robes, mounted on fleet steeds, and equipped with swords, spears,

and shields embossed with gold and silver,--suddenly a tempest was seen

hurrying from the south-west. In a little while black clouds overshadowed

the heavens and burst forth with a deluge of rain. Torrents came roaring

down from the mountains, bringing with them rocks and trees; the Darro

overflowed its banks; mills were swept away, bridges destroyed, gardens

laid waste; the inundation rushed into the city, undermining houses,

drowning their inhabitants, and overflowing even the square of the Great

Mosque. The people rushed in affright to the mosques to implore the

mercy of Allah, regarding this uproar of the elements as the harbinger of

dreadful calamities; and, indeed, according to the Arabian historian Al

Makkari, it was but a type and prelude of the direful war which ended in

the downfall of the Moslem kingdom of Granada.

I have thus given historic authorities sufficient to show the portentous

mysteries connected with the House of the Weathercock, and its talismanic

horseman.

I now proceed to relate still more surprising things about Aben Habuz and

his palace; for the truth of which, should any doubt be entertained, I

refer the dubious reader to Mateo Ximenes and his fellow-historiographers

of the Alhambra.

[Illustration: _Among the Hills._]

LEGEND OF THE ARABIAN ASTROLOGER.

In old times, many hundred years ago, there was a Moorish king named

Aben Habuz, who reigned over the kingdom of Granada. He was a retired

conqueror, that is to say, one who, having in his more youthful days led a

life of constant foray and depredation, now that he was grown feeble and

superannuated, "languished for repose," and desired nothing more than to

live at peace with all the world, to husband his laurels, and to enjoy in

quiet the possessions he had wrested from his neighbours.

It so happened, however, that this most reasonable and pacific old monarch

had young rivals to deal with; princes full of his early passion for fame

and fighting, and who were disposed to call him to account for the scores

he had run up with their fathers. Certain distant districts of his own

territories, also, which during the days of his vigour he had treated

with a high hand, were prone, now that he languished for repose, to rise

in rebellion and threaten to invest him in his capital. Thus he had foes

on every side; and as Granada is surrounded by wild and craggy mountains,

which hide the approach of an enemy, the unfortunate Aben Habuz was kept

in a constant state of vigilance and alarm, not knowing in what quarter

hostilities might break out.

[Illustration: _The Tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella._]

It was in vain that he built watch-towers on the mountains, and stationed

guards at every pass with orders to make fires by night and smoke by day,

on the approach of an enemy. His alert foes, baffling every precaution,

would break out of some unthought-of defile, ravage his lands beneath his

very nose, and then make off with prisoners and booty to the mountains.

Was ever peaceable and retired conqueror in a more uncomfortable

predicament?

While Aben Habuz was harassed by these perplexities and molestations, an

ancient Arabian physician arrived at his court. His gray beard descended

to his girdle, and he had every mark of extreme age, yet he had travelled

almost the whole way from Egypt on foot, with no other aid than a staff,

marked with hieroglyphics. His fame had preceded him. His name was Ibrahim

Ebn Abu Ayub; he was said to have lived ever since the days of Mahomet,

and to be son of Abu Ayub; the last of the companions of the Prophet. He

had, when a child, followed the conquering army of Amru into Egypt, where

he had remained many years studying the dark sciences, and particularly

magic, among the Egyptian priests.

It was, moreover, said that he had found out the secret of prolonging

life by means of which he had arrived to the great age of upwards of two

centuries, though, as he did not discover the secret until well stricken

in years, he could only perpetuate his gray hairs and wrinkles.

This wonderful old man was honourably entertained by the king; who, like

most superannuated monarchs, began to take physicians into great favour.

He would have assigned him an apartment in his palace, but the astrologer

preferred a cave in the side of the hill which rises above the city of

Granada, being the same on which the Alhambra has since been built. He

caused the cave to be enlarged so as to form a spacious and lofty hall,

with a circular hole at the top, through which, as through a well, he

could see the heavens and behold the stars even at mid-day. The walls

of this hall were covered with Egyptian hieroglyphics with cabalistic

symbols, and with the figures of the stars in their signs. This hall he

furnished with many implements, fabricated under his directions by cunning

artificers of Granada, but the occult properties of which were known only

to himself.

[Illustration: _The Road up to the Alhambra._]

In a little while the sage Ibrahim became the bosom counsellor of the

king, who applied to him for advice in every emergency. Aben Habuz was

once inveighing against the injustice of his neighbours, and bewailing

the restless vigilance he had to observe to guard himself against their

invasions; when he had finished, the astrologer remained silent for a

moment, and then replied, "Know, O king, that, when I was in Egypt, I

beheld a great marvel devised by a pagan priestess of old. On a mountain,

above the city of Borsa, and overlooking the great valley of the Nile,

was a figure of a ram, and above it a figure of a cock, both of molten

brass, and turning upon a pivot. Whenever the country was threatened with

invasion, the ram would turn in the direction of the enemy, and the cock

would crow; upon this the inhabitants of the city knew of the danger, and

of the quarter from which it was approaching, and could take timely means

to guard against it."

"God is great!" exclaimed the pacific Aben Habuz, "what a treasure would

be such a ram to keep an eye upon these mountains around me; and then such

a cock, to crow in time of danger! _Allah Akbah!_ how securely I might

sleep in my palace with such sentinels on the top!"

The astrologer waited until the ecstasies of the king had subsided, and

then proceeded:

"After the victorious Amru (may he rest in peace!) had finished his

conquest of Egypt, I remained among the priests of the land, studying the

rites and ceremonies of their idolatrous faith, and seeking to make myself

master of the hidden knowledge for which they are renowned. I was one day

seated on the banks of the Nile, conversing with an ancient priest, when

he pointed to the mighty pyramids which rose like mountains out of the

neighbouring desert. 'All that we can teach thee,' said he, 'is nothing

to the knowledge locked up in those mighty piles. In the centre of the

central pyramid is a sepulchral chamber, in which is enclosed the mummy

of the high priest who aided in rearing that stupendous pile; and with

him is buried a wondrous book of knowledge, containing all the secrets of

magic and art. This book was given to Adam after his fall, and was handed

down from generation to generation to King Solomon the Wise, and by its

aid he built the Temple of Jerusalem. How it came into the possession of

the builder of the pyramids is known to Him alone who knows all things.'

"When I heard these words of the Egyptian priest, my heart burned to

get possession of that book. I could command the services of many of

the soldiers of our conquering army, and of a number of the native

Egyptians: with these I set to work, and pierced the solid mass of the

pyramid, until, after great toil, I came upon one of its interior and

hidden passages. Following this up, and threading a fearful labyrinth, I

penetrated into the very heart of the pyramids, even to the sepulchral

chamber, where the mummy of the high-priest had lain for ages. I broke

through the outer cases of the mummy, unfolded its many wrappers and

bandages, and at length found the precious volume on its bosom. I seized

it with a trembling hand, and groped my way out of the pyramid, leaving

the mummy in its dark and silent sepulchre, there to await the final day

of resurrection and judgment."

"Son of Abu Ayub," exclaimed Aben Habuz, "thou hast been a great

traveller, and seen marvellous things; but of what avail to me is the

secret of the pyramid, and the volume of knowledge of the wise Solomon?"

"This it is, O king! By the study of that book I am instructed in all

magic arts, and can command the assistance of genii to accomplish my

plans. The mystery of the Talisman of Borsa is therefore familiar to me,

and such a talisman can I make, nay, one of greater virtues."

"O wise son of Abu Ayub," cried Aben Habuz, "better were such a talisman

than all the watch towers on the hills, and sentinels upon the borders.

Give me such a safeguard, and the riches of my treasury are at thy

command."

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