The lodges were aligned in double row, with a wide avenue between them.
At its head stood one of superior dimensions--the wigwam of the chief.
They were all of conical shape; a circle of poles converging at their
tops, and covered with skins of the buffalo, grained and bleached to the
whiteness of wash-leather. A slit in the front of each tent formed the
entrance, closed by a list of the hide that hung loosely over it. Near
the top of each appeared a triangular piece of skin, projecting outward
from the slope of the side, and braced, so as to resemble an inverted
sail of the kind known as _lateen_. It was a wind-guard to aid the
smoke in its ascent. On the outer surface of each tent was exhibited
the biography of its owner--expressed in picture-writing. More
especially were his deeds of prowess thus recorded--encounters with the
couguar and grizzly bear--with Crows, Cheyennes, Pawnees, and
Arapahoes--each under its suitable symbol. The great marquee of the
chief was particularly distinguished with this kind of emblematical
emblazonment--being literally covered with signs and figures, like the
patterns upon a carpet. No doubt, one skilled in the interpretation of
these Transatlantic hieroglyphs, might have read from that copious
cipher many a tale of terrible interest. In front of the tents stood
tall spears, with shields of _parfleche_ leaning against them; also long
bows of _bois d'arc (Maclura aurantica_), and shorter ones of horn--the
horns of the mountain-ram. Skin-quivers filled with arrows, hung
suspended from the shafts; and I observed that, in almost every grouping
of these weapons, there was a gun--a rifle. This did not much astonish
me. I knew that, to the Utah, the medicine weapon is no longer a
mystery. Here and there, hides freshly flayed were pegged out upon the
grass, with squaws kneeling around them, engaged in the operation of
graining. Girls, with water-tight baskets, poised upon the crown of the
head, were coming from or going towards the stream. Men stood in
groups, idly chatting, or squatted upon the turf, playing at games of
chance. Boys were busy at their bow-practice; and still younger
children rolled their naked bodies over the grass, hugging half-grown
puppies--the companions of their infant play. Troops of dogs trotted
among the tents; while a mixed herd of horses, mules, sheep, goats, and
asses browsed the plain at a little distance from the camp. Such was
the _coup d'oeil_ that presented itself to my gaze, as we rode up to the
Utah encampment.
As might be expected, our arrival caused a change in the occupation of
everybody. The dicers leaped to their feet--the squaws discontinued
their work, and flung their scrapers upon the skins. "_Ti-ya_!" was the
exclamation of astonishment that burst from hundreds of lips. Children
screamed, and ran hiding behind their dusky mothers; dogs growled and
barked; horses neighed; mules hinnied; asses brayed; while the sheep and
goats joined their bleating to the universal chorus. "On to the chief's
tent!" counselled my companion, gliding to the ground, and preceding me
on foot, "Yonder! the chief himself--Wa-ka-ra!"
An Indian of medium size and perfect form, habited in a tunic of
embroidered buckskin, leggings of scarlet cloth, head-dress of coloured
plumes, with crest that swept backward and drooped down to his heels. A
gaily striped _serape_, suspended scarf-like over the left shoulder,
with a sash of red China crape wound loosely around the waist, completed
a costume more picturesque than savage. A face of noble type, with an
eye strongly glancing, like that of an eagle; an expression of features
in no way fierce, but, like the dress, more gentle than savage; a
countenance, in repose mild--almost to meekness. Such saw I.
Had I known the man who stood before me, I might have remarked how
little this latter expression corresponded with his real character. Not
that he was cruel, but only famed for warlike prowess. I was face to
face with the most noted war-chief of America: whose name, though new to
me, was at that moment dreaded from Oregon to Arispe, from the banks of
the Rio Bravo to the sierras of Alta California. It was _Walker_--the
war-chief of the Utahs--the friend of the celebrated trapper, whose name
he had adopted; and which, by the modification of Utah orthoepy, had
become _Wa-ka-ra_.
An odd individual--a very odd one--was standing beside the chief as I
rode up. He appeared to be a Mexican, to judge by his costume and the
colour of his skin. The former consisted of _jaqueta_ and _calzoneros_
of dark-coloured velveteen, surmounted by a broad-brimmed _sombrero_ of
black glaze; while the complexion, although swarthy, was several shades
lighter than that of the Indian. He was a man of diminutive stature,
and with a countenance of a serio-comical cast. An expression of this
kind pervaded his whole person--features and figure included--and was
heightened by the presence of a singular accoutrement that hung
suspended from his leathern waist-belt. It was a piece of timber some
eighteen inches in length, and looking like the section of a boot-tree,
or the half of a wooden milk-yoke. At the thick end was a concavity or
socket, with straps, by which it was attached to the belt; and this
singular apparatus, hanging down over his thigh, added to the grotesque
appearance of its owner. The little Mexican had all the cut of a
"character;" and he was one, as I afterwards ascertained. He was no
other than the famous Pedro Archilete--or "Peg-leg," as his comrades
called him--a trapper of Taos, and one of the most expert and fearless
of that fearless fraternity.
The odd accoutrement which had puzzled me was nothing more than an
artificial leg! It was an implement, however, he only used upon
occasions--whenever the natural one--the ankle of which had been damaged
by some accident--gave out through the fatigue of a march. At other
times he carried the wooden leg, as I first saw it, suspended from his
belt!
His presence in the Indian encampment was easily accounted for. He was
in alliance with their chief: for the Utahs were at that time _en paz_
with the settlements of the Taos Valley; and the Spanish trappers and
traders went freely among them. Peg-leg had been on a trapping
expedition to the Parks; and having fallen in with the Utahs, had become
the guest of Wa-ka-ra.