PROGRESS OF THE WORKS IN THE YEAR 1809.
[Sidenote: 1809, January.]
In the month of January 1809, the winds prevailed much from the east
and north-east, which never fail to produce a heavy sea on the eastern
shores of Great Britain, and particularly at the Bell Rock, from its
exposed position to these points. This state of the weather, therefore,
rendered it extremely difficult to communicate with the Floating-light,
for the purpose of relieving the seamen in their turns ashore, and
supplying the ship with provisions and necessaries.
[Sidenote: Railways injured, and Bracing chain-bolts unlocked.]
It was also found impracticable to land upon the Rock itself sooner
in this month than the 20th, when, after several attempts, Mr Francis
Watt and Captain Wilson, two of the engineer’s assistants, landed
with four seamen, and four artificers with their tools, at 12 noon,
and remained till a quarter past 1 P. M. By this time several of the
supports of the iron-railways on the Rock had got loose, and two of the
castings forming the waggon-track and footpath had broken adrift. One
of these was found at a considerable distance from its place, but the
other had entirely disappeared, and must have been washed off the Rock,
although it weighed upwards of 100 lb. In these gales, no fewer than
ten of the bracing-chains of the Beacon were shaken entirely loose,
seven of which had unscrewed the tightening-bolts, and the remaining
three lifted the pieces of rock into which the chain-bats had been
fixed. The tightening-bolts were again screwed up, and pieces of small
wire twisted round the points of the screws, to prevent the nuts from
unlocking. The three bolts, with their chains, which had lifted the
parts of the rock, were disengaged from the Beacon altogether, to
prevent injury to the wooden beams, by their motion with the force of
the sea; and things were otherwise left in as serviceable a state as
the circumstances of a limited stay upon the Rock at this season of
the year would admit. It was, upon the whole, highly satisfactory to
learn, that the Beacon, this important auxiliary to the operations, had
received no material injury, after such a continued tract of stormy
weather; the great iron stanchions sunk into the Rock, which kept the
main beams in their places, and all the joints and fixtures of the
higher parts of the framed work, being quite entire, and without the
smallest appearance of having shifted.
[Sidenote: Proofs of strong currents in the Sea.]
On this trip to the Rock, the Light-house Yacht picked up a
floating-buoy belonging to the navigation of the river Weser. It was
marked “Bremen 1808, W. R. No. 2.,” and measured six feet in length,
and three feet in diameter over the head, being of the form known to
mariners as a Cann buoy. It appeared to have drifted, in the course
of this winter, from the shores of Germany, which, in a direct line,
is a distance of at least 340 miles. This circumstance, as the buoy
presented, while afloat, but a small surface for the wind to act upon,
being heavily bound with iron, and having about two fathoms of mooring
chain appended to it, affords an extraordinary proof of the effects
of the tides and currents in the ocean. We may likewise here notice,
among other instances corroborative of this curious anomaly of the
tides, the drifting, within the same period, of part of the apparatus
belonging to the works of the Bell Rock; particularly the two buoys,
formerly mentioned, that parted from their moorings, and came ashore,
the one, along with a raft of timber, at Fifeness, and the other at
the Island of May, after having been upwards of two months at sea.
But, perhaps, the most remarkable occurrence of this kind, was that of
the Praam-boat, also formerly mentioned, which broke loose from the
Floating-light, and was found at the Redhead about 13 miles distant,
having been at sea for the space of three months and eight days.
[Sidenote: Three large drift-stones found upon the Rock.]
The artificers again landed at the Rock on the morning of the 31st
at 7 o’clock, being rather before _day-break_, and left it again
at 10, after having been on it about three hours. Several of the
bracing-chains were found loosened, notwithstanding the precautions
hitherto used for preventing the bolts from unlocking. But the writer
had resolved, when the weather would admit, to remove these chains
altogether, and introduce strong bars of malleable iron, about
eight feet above the Rock, as represented in Plate VIII., to connect
the several beams in a horizontal direction. At this landing, three
large masses of rock were found close to the Beacon, which had been
drifted upon the Rock by the force of the sea. They were of various
dimensions, the largest containing no less than about 20 cubic feet,
equal perhaps to a ton and a quarter in weight. After a careful
examination, in every direction, of the low-water surface of the rock,
it was ascertained that these stones had formed no part of it, though
of the same description of rock; and it was therefore concluded, they
must have been thrown up from deep water. The refitting of the chains
of the Beacon and the cast-iron Railways, so occupied the time of the
artificers, that they could not get the stones so broken as to be
removed, and thereby prevent their being perhaps thrown, by the force
of the sea, against the Beacon and Railways, like so many battering
rams.
[Sidenote: February.]
During the month of February, the weather continued to be extremely
boisterous, and it was not without considerable difficulty that the
Floating-light could be visited at the stated periods; while two
unsuccessful attempts were made, on the 1st and 20th, to land at the
Bell Rock.
[Sidenote: Progress of the Works at Arbroath, and exertions made at the
Quarries.]
In the work-yard, the preparation of the several courses of the
building was going progressively forward. The Ninth course was now
finished, and part of the Tenth laid upon the platform. At Mylnefield
Quarry, the operations were at a stand; for in winter, as formerly
mentioned, no work is done here, owing to the liability of the stones
to split in frosty weather, especially when newly taken from the
quarry, the laminæ of the strata being then charged with moisture.
But, as granite imbibes water very slowly, and is not liable to
those changes, every exertion continued to be made at the quarries
of Aberdeenshire, that, if possible, the outside casing of granite
might be carried to the height of 30 feet, or to the top of the solid
part of the building, instead of 16 feet, or to high-water mark, as
had been latterly intended. The stone-agent at Aberdeen, accordingly,
had a person traversing the numerous quarries in that neighbourhood,
while one of the foremen from the work-yard at Arbroath, was similarly
employed, during the winter months, at Peterhead; and whenever a stone
was found answerable to the Light-house moulds, it was immediately
purchased, and laid aside for the use of the Bell Rock.
[Sidenote: 1809, February.]
[Sidenote: Employment of Shipping.]
The sloops Smeaton and Alexander made several trips to the North, and
also to Mylnefield, near Dundee, for stones which had been quarried
in the course of the summer months, and were in no danger from the
frost; but owing to the difficult nature of the navigation of the Tay
in winter, these voyages were frequently attended with considerable
danger. On the last trip which the Smeaton made to this quarry, she
had a very narrow escape, and lost both her boat and an anchor; but
the hazardous state of the vessel and all on board, will be better
understood by the following very distinct and explicit letter or
journal from Mr Thomas Calder, commander of the Light-house Yacht, who,
on this occasion, was acting master on board of the Smeaton.
[Sidenote: Captain Calder’s account of a trip to the Tay.]
_“Arbroath, 25th February 1809._
“Mr STEVENSON.
“Sir,--At 3 o’clock P. M., on the 21st inst., I got under way from the
South Ferry Roads for Mylnefield quarry, wind at West. At 7 were about
a mile from the quarry pierhead. Light airs of wind. Got beset amongst
ice, and brought up with the small bower-anchor. At midnight, all hands
employed hanging fenders over the bows and sides, to save the vessel
from getting cut with the ice.
“At day-light, on the 22d., being high-water, got under way; ice all
round, and had frequently to let go an anchor, to allow it to drift
past us. Could not get up to the quarry, and at 10 put into Dundee.
During the remainder of this day had light breezes, with hard frost.
“On the 23d, at 7 A. M. got again under way, with a westerly wind,
but still could not make up to the quarry. At 10, had drifted down as
far as the Lights of Tay, having little wind, but a heavy sea from
E.SE. At 11, the boat filled, and was turned bottom up; nothing could
be done for her safety; cut her adrift. At noon, had a very heavy sea
on our broadside, breaking over all, with little or no wind. Got into
three fathoms water, the sea sweeping every thing off the deck that was
moveable. All hands in the rigging for safety, except the man at the
helm. Endeavour if possible to get back, but all in vain. Let go our
anchor in two fathoms water, the sea breaking over all. At 9 o’clock P.
M., being then high-water, let go the best bower-anchor. At midnight
calm weather, with heavy breaking seas.
“At 9 A. M. of the 24th, got under way again, and took our fate, being
in much peril to ride longer. Could not purchase our anchor, and were
therefore obliged to cut the cable. Had light airs of wind, but still
a heavy sea. Went over the bank in going out of the Tay, and, at 9 in
the evening, had the good fortune to get into Arbroath. In the course
of this trip we saw one sloop sink with all hands in the rigging, while
close by us, but we could render them no assistance, and we were still
drifting towards the shore. Another sloop, named the Lady Kinnaird, I
believe bound for Leith, God only knows what her fate was; being thick
with snow I lost sight of her frequently. It was often impossible for
a man to stand on deck; and we took to the rigging for safety. The
Smeaton and these two vessels being a long way a-head of six of the
Dundee London smacks, were certainly the means of saving them. The
ship’s company is now employed in rigging the Light-house Yacht, and
fitting her for sea. I am, Sir, your humble servant,
THO^S. CALDER.”
[Sidenote: 1809, March.]
[Sidenote: Large Stones removed. Joisting of platform lifted by the
sea.]
The month of March set in with some pretty good weather, and eight
artificers landed upon the Rock on the 5th, at half-past 11 A. M.,
and remained till half-past 1, when they got the three large stones,
formerly mentioned as lying near the Beacon, broken, and reduced to
such a size as to admit of their removal. Several of the fixtures of
the Railways had got loose, and were again secured; and two lengths of
the waggon-tracks were broken to pieces by the movement of the above
mentioned stones, which, in their progress across the rock, had made
indelible ruts upon it. The bracing-chains of the Beacon still required
to be screwed up; but the essential parts of this fabric were in the
most entire and perfect state; although all the joisting of the lower
platform, excepting three pieces, had been carried away. The deals of
this floor had been lifted at the end of the working season, being only
about 30 feet above the Rock, but the joisting presented so little
resistance to the waves, that it had been allowed to remain, being only
fixed in a slender manner, that both the floor and the joisting might
lift with the force of the sea, without endangering the safety of the
Beacon.
[Sidenote: A vessel in danger of being wrecked on the Bell Rock.]
On this occasion, the people of the Floating-light informed the landing
party, that they had just been spoken to by the crew of a large brig
from Gottenburgh, bound for Liverpool. This vessel having got out of
her reckoning, had been lying-to in the entrance of the Firth for
three days, not knowing the land. But having been directed as to their
situation, the strangers now shaped their course for the Orkneys. Had
it not been for these instructions, this vessel, in all probability,
might have been wrecked on the Bell Rock; and, therefore, looking
prospectively to the completion of this work, we may see its extensive
and important advantages to shipping.
[Sidenote: Fourteenth course laid on the platform, and further progress
of the Work.]
During the remainder of this month, no opportunity occurred for landing
on the Rock, but the other departments of the service went forward with
all possible dispatch. The Thirteenth course was nearly completed,
and a part of the Fourteenth had been laid on the platform. The last
of the moulds for the granite stones, to the height of 30 feet, had
now been sent to the quarries of Aberdeen and Peterhead, where the
Smeaton, and the hired sloop Alexander, were each loading a cargo. Mr
Peter Logan had now left the quarries at Peterhead, where he had been
for some months; and Alexander Davidson, one of the principal granite
masons, appointed to attend the quarries at Aberdeen, was also soon to
be removed from that station, to perform the same duty at the sandstone
quarry of Mylnefield. Measures had likewise been taken for providing
the necessary castings for the extension of the Railways to the western
landing place at the Rock, which altogether were to include a range of
about 800 feet.
[Sidenote: Cast-iron Mushroom Anchors. Difficulty in procuring
Trenails.]
The uncertainty attending the fixing of the malleable iron shank into
the large cast-iron head of the mushroom anchor, represented in Plate
X. Fig. 4., from its liability to shake loose, had induced the writer
to make trial of a mushroom anchor, made wholly of cast-iron, which was
finished in a very complete manner by the Shotts Iron Company. At the
same works, castings were also made for a set of new sheers for those
broken in the month of September at the eastern landing creek, which
answered all the purposes of a crane, as represented in Plate XI. The
two new praam-boats building at Arbroath, had advanced considerably
in the course of this month, and were now ready for the laying of the
decks. Of all the materials connected with those which may be termed
of a trifling nature, none was more difficult to be procured than the
oaken trenails, for fixing the stones of the lower or solid part of
the building while the work was in progress. After much correspondence
with London and other ports, a considerable quantity was procured from
trenail merchants of Wapping. But such was the demand for oak timber
at this period, owing to the great supply wanted for the Navy, that it
was not only at a considerable expence, from about L. 3 to L. 5 per
hundred, but with great difficulty, that trenails of the dimensions
wanted could be collected. It was found by a calculation, at this
time, that 2544 trenails, from 20 to 26 inches in length, and 1¼
inches in diameter, and 3720 pairs of wedges, from 15 to 19 inches in
length, 3 inches in breadth, and 1 inch in thickness at the top, would
still be wanted. Fortunately, however, a great quantity of oak timber,
suitable for trenails, was brought about this time from the Highland
districts to Perth, for making the spokes of carriage-wheels. A supply
of these was accordingly got, at a much cheaper rate than the ordinary
trenails of the carpenter, and which were also considered better for
the purposes of the work.
[Sidenote: Purchase of the Sloop Patriot.]
In order that the building operations at the Rock might suffer as
little delay as possible, from the difficulty attending the regular
transportation of the stones from Arbroath, and also to provide
against the numerous accidents to which the vessels in this service
were incident, it was judged proper to have another vessel besides the
Smeaton for this department of the service. The writer consequently
corresponded with various ports, with a view to procure a vessel of
about 40 tons burden, or nearly the size of the Smeaton. Two vessels of
this description were offered for sale, at the same price of L. 470;
but one of them, the sloop Patriot of Kirkaldy, was stated to be a new
vessel, which had hardly been at sea, while the other was several years
old; the Kirkaldy vessel was therefore preferred.
[Sidenote: 1809, April.]
On the 5th and 6th April, the boats of the Floating-light landed the
artificers on the Bell Rock at 11 o’clock A. M., and they remained till
1, having had two hours’ work each tide in refitting the railways, and
setting up the bracing-chains of the Beacon, which were still found
in a loose state. Notwithstanding all the precautions used, one of
them had unscrewed its nut to the extent of 3 inches, by the friction
arising from the agitation of the sea, but every thing else was found
to be in good order.
[Sidenote: Floating-light encounters some heavy seas.]
From the 6th to the 20th, the weather was particularly boisterous,
the winds being chiefly from the eastward, with occasional showers
of snow. On the 16th it was found necessary to veer out the cable of
the Floating-light from the 30th to the 90th fathom service; and, on
the 17th, at 2 o’clock A. M., she had shipped so heavy a sea, that it
filled both of the boats amid-ships, and ran down the companion and
hatches in such quantities as to give great alarm to all on board,
who, for a time, concluded that the vessel was sinking.
[Sidenote: Twelfth course completed by the Stone-cutters.]
About the beginning of this month, the stone-cutters in the workyard
had just completed the hewing of the sandstone or hearting of the
Fourteenth course of the building: but those employed at the granite
blocks of the course were at a stand, both with that and the Thirteenth
course, for want of materials: a supply, however, having timeously
arrived from Aberdeen and Peterhead, these courses were proceeded with,
though, as yet, none higher than the Twelfth was in a finished state.
As the sandstone masons were considerably ahead of those who wrought
the granite, the former were chiefly employed in laying the courses on
the platform, and boring the trenail holes. The necessary implements
were also prepared, and in readiness for shipping for the Rock, with 62
barrels of lime, 78 barrels of pozzolano, and 60 barrels of sand.
[Sidenote: Employment of Shipping.]
The Light-house Yacht was now fitted out for her voyage with stores for
the Northern Light-houses, and the other general business connected
with her department. The Sir Joseph Banks Tender was ready for sea by
the 17th of April; and the Smeaton and Alexander were still making
trips to the quarries, and occasionally supplying the Floating-light
with provisions.
[Sidenote: Sloop Patriot condemned.]
[Sidenote: Opinion of Mr Solicitor-General Boyle.]
The sloop Patriot, of 45 register tons, formerly mentioned as having
been purchased for the work, had her hatches enlarged, for the
conveniency of loading and delivering stones; and was otherwise fitted
up for the service at the Rock. On the 20th, she took on board five
cast-iron mushroom anchors, with chains and floating-buoys, together
with a quantity of cast-iron work for extending the Railways. With this
cargo she sailed from Leith on the 21st of April, reached the Bell Rock
on the morning of the 22d, and was discharged with the assistance of
the boats of the Tender and Floating-light. In the course of this trip,
the Patriot was observed to make a considerable quantity of water;
and instead, therefore, of proceeding for the quarries for a cargo of
stone, it was found necessary to send her to Arbroath for examination,
when James Macdonald, the master, reported that he could not proceed
to sea until the vessel underwent repair. A warrant was accordingly
obtained from the Judge-Admiral for a survey of carpenters, who
declared her “not sea-worthy.” On farther opening the bottom planks,
it appeared, that, upon the starboard-bow, both planks and trenails
were in a state of decay, and the expence of the necessary repairs
was estimated at L. 80. Upon this report of the carpenters being
produced, a correspondence was entered into with the late owner of the
vessel, who resisted the charge; and the matter being submitted by the
Light-house Board to Mr Solicitor-General Boyle, then _ex officio_ one
of the Commissioners, (now Lord Justice-Clerk,) he was of opinion, from
the circumstance of the Patriot’s having been sold as an almost new
vessel, that the late owner was liable for the estimated repairs. Upon
this opinion being made known, the sum of L. 80 was immediately paid,
and the vessel was put under repair.
[Sidenote: Two Praams launched.]
Two of the praam-boats built at Arbroath had been launched, by the
names of “Fernie,” and “Dickie,” after the respective builders,
and were fitted out with complete sets of warps and grapplings for
landing the stones at the Bell Rock. Every thing being in readiness
for commencing the operations, it was fully expected that the solid
part would be completed in the course of the ensuing season, and the
Light-house thus carried to the height of 30 feet.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.]
[Sidenote: Tender sails. Floating light put under charge of Mr Reid.]
The Sir Joseph Banks Tender, having been fitted out for sea, sailed on
the 20th of April, with the Hedderwick praam-boat in tow, to attend
the works at the Bell Rock. She had also on board 15 artificers,
consisting of mill-wrights, joiners, smiths and masons, to be employed
in extending the Railways, and fitting up the Beacon-house as a place
of residence for the workmen. Having left the harbour of Arbroath
at 5 A. M., the Floating-light was hailed at 8, when her boat came
alongside with Captain Wilson, the landing-master, who was now to
leave his charge on board of the Floating-light for a time, and attend
as landing-master at the Bell Rock, while Mr John Reid, mariner, and
principal light-keeper, took charge as master of the Floating-light,
acting in these capacities with much credit to himself and advantage to
the service.
[Sidenote: Two sets of Moorings laid down.]
The first attention of the landing-master was to lay down a
mushroom-anchor, weighing 18 cwt. 1 qr. with 32 fathoms of ⅞th inch
chain, in 13 fathoms water, as the future moorings of the Tender; the
Beacon on the Bell Rock bearing E. by S. distant ¼ mile. A set of
moorings were also laid down about 300 fathoms to the eastward of this
for the praam-boat, with a mushroom-anchor, weighing 15 cwt. 24 lb.,
with 25 fathoms of chain, in 11 fathoms water. The artificers, having
left the Tender in two boats, landed on the Rock at 9 A.M. and returned
on board again at half-past 12 noon. But, in the afternoon, the
weather becoming more coarse, with the wind from the NE., accompanied
with showers of snow, a landing was not attempted in the evening.
[Sidenote: Friday, 21st.]
[Sidenote: Tender slips her moorings.]
The wind to-day being still from the NE., a heavy sea set upon the
Rock. The artificers, notwithstanding, left the Tender in two boats, at
10 A. M., but, after various attempts to land at the western creek, it
was found impracticable, and the boats returned to the vessel at half
past 11; when the Tender was found to ride so heavily at her moorings,
that it was judged advisable to slip her hawser; when she set sail, and
at 5 P. M. anchored in the bay of Arbroath; but, in the course of the
night, she again returned to her moorings off the Bell Rock.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 22d.]
[Sidenote: Other three sets of Moorings laid down.]
The wind having come round to the south to-day, the weather had
moderated; and at 10 A. M. the artificers landed, their number having
been augmented by nine additional men from Leith, so that they now
counted twenty-five. The latter part of this day was employed in laying
down three sets of moorings with mushroom-anchors, weighing from 15 to
23 cwt., for the use of the Stone-Lighters, and other craft employed at
the work. The positions of these, as nearly as may be, will be seen in
Plate V.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 23d.]
[Sidenote: Artificers cannot land.]
At 6 A. M. the artificers left the vessel, with an intention to
land on the Beacon at high-water, but there being too much sea,
they returned without effecting their purpose. At one P. M., being
low-water, fifteen of them made a landing, and remained till 4 o’clock,
making preparations for commencing the operations at the Railways and
Beacon-house. This afternoon the Smeaton supplied the Floating-light
and Tender with necessaries, and returned to Arbroath, carrying with
her twelve of the artificers for the work-yard.
[Sidenote: Monday, 24th.]
At 7 A. M. the artificers left the Tender, and landed on the Beacon,
where they remained all the day. The masons, who could only be employed
on the Rock during low-water, in boring holes for the bats, and in
dressing the Rock for the supports of the Railways, landed at 1 P. M.,
and left off work at 3, having been two hours at work, when the tide
overflowed the Rock; but the joiners and smiths continued on the Beacon
till 7 P. M.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 25th.]
During these twenty-four hours the wind was from the westward, with
moderate breezes and showers of rain. At half-past 6 A. M., the smiths
and joiners landed on the Beacon, and continued the whole day. At
half-past 3 P. M., the low-water artificers landed, and the whole
returned again on board of the Tender at half-past 8.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 26th.]
[Sidenote: Sailors account for the unsettled state of the weather.]
The weather continued to be very unsettled, and there being still great
quantities of snow lying on the hills of Angus, it was an observation
made by the sailors, “That the wind never continued twenty-four hours
in one direction, while there was any whiteness on the Braes of Angus.”
To-day, it was at E.NE., with strong breezes and hazy weather. At
half-past 8 the joiners and smiths left the vessel for the Rock, but
could not make a landing, and returned again at half-past 9, when she
immediately slipped her moorings and sailed for Arbroath, to wait the
return of the spring-tides.
[Sidenote: Progress of the work.]
At Arbroath, the several departments of the work went forward with
alacrity, and the courses of the building, as high as the 19th, were
now ready for shipment. The Patriot having undergone a complete repair,
was equipped for sea. The Smeaton was employed chiefly in attending
the quarries at Mylnefield, and the Alexander those of Aberdeenshire.
The Tender took on board provisions, water, and other necessaries for
the supply of the Floating-light and artificers, and also some of the
dressed timber for fitting up the cabins of the higher parts of the
Beacon-house.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 30th.]
[Sidenote: Tender sails for the Rock.]
The Tender accordingly left the harbour of Arbroath this morning, under
the command of Mr David Taylor, and sailed for the Bell Rock with
Mr Francis Watt and eighteen artificers. At 6 A. M. they spoke the
Floating-light, and got Mr James Wilson, the landing-master, on board.
The wind being from the westward with moderate breezes, the artificers
were landed at 7 A. M., and remained on the Rock till 11 P. M. While
the water was low they were employed at refitting and extending the
Railways; and when the Rock was overflowed, they ascended to the
Beacon, and continued their operations. The wind came to blow so fresh
from the N.W., or in the direction of the Tender’s moorings from the
Rock, that it was not judged safe to make her fast; and as soon as the
artificers got on board, she beat to windward and got into St Andrew’s
bay for the night.
[Sidenote: 1809, May.]
[Sidenote: Monday, 1st.]
In the morning the Tender stood again towards the Bell Rock. In the
course of the day the wind shifted from W.NW. to N.E. The writer
reached the Rock this morning, in the Smeaton, at half-past 7, when he
landed with nineteen artificers, and remained till noon, and then went
on board of the Tender, now at her moorings.
[Sidenote: Writer visits the Rock.]
The several tides’ work which had been got upon the Rock this season,
had enabled the artificers to refit the damage which the railways had
sustained during the winter months, and to make further progress with
the great circular track round the building, which measured fifty-five
feet in diameter; but, as yet, the western reach had made but little
advancement. The fitting up of the temporary residence on the higher
part of the Beacon, began to make some more habitable-like appearance;
the joistings for the respective floors were laid, and a few of the
upright spars of the framing had also been set up. This work continued
to create much interest with every one connected with the operations,
as its completion was to relieve those affected with the sea-sickness,
and the whole troop from the continual plague of boating to and from
the Rock by day and night. Having examined the works here, the writer
left the Rock at 11 P. M. with the artificers, who went on board of the
Tender, while he embarked in the Smeaton and sailed for Arbroath.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 2d.]
It blew so fresh, from West to N.W., that no landing could be made
to-day, and the Tender was obliged to slip her moorings, and beat up
into St Andrew’s bay, to pass the night in smooth water.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 3d.]
[Sidenote: Some timber is landed.]
The wind was still blowing fresh from the same quarter, and, of
course, directly upon the Rock from the moorings of the Tender; it was
therefore judged proper, in the present unsettled state of the weather,
that she should keep under sail, instead of making fast. At 9 A. M.
the artificers landed, and returned on board at 1 P. M. In the evening
they again landed and remained till 9. Notwithstanding the state of the
weather, several boat-loads of timber and iron were landed for the use
of the Railways and Beacon.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 4th.]
From the state of the winds at W.NW., instead of making fast to her
moorings, the Tender kept plying about the Rock all day, and passed the
night reaching about in St Andrew’s Bay, and returned to the Rock at
the proper time of tide in the morning. At 7 A. M., eighteen artificers
landed, and remained at work till 6 P. M., when they again returned on
board.
[Sidenote: Friday, 5th.]
This morning, Captain Taylor embraced the opportunity of the wind
having veered to the north, to make the Tender fast to her moorings,
but there was too much wind and sea for landing on the Rock. The vessel
was, therefore, made as snug as possible, with her top-masts struck,
her yards lowered, and boltsprit run in, to enable her to ride more
easily.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 6th.]
[Sidenote: Tender in danger of drifting upon the Rock.]
The wind was at North to-day, and the weather being more moderate, Mr
Watt, with eight of the artificers, landed at 6 A. M., on the Beacon,
and at 10, being then low-water, the remaining twelve followed. At
half-past 3 P. M., the whole returned on board, as the wind blew very
hard. The boltsprit was launched out, and the ship was got ready for
sea, in case of the wind shifting to the N.W., which might endanger the
vessel’s drifting upon the Rock.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 7th.]
The wind remained in the same direction, but the weather was much
more moderate, and at 7 A. M., eight artificers left the vessel for
the Beacon, where they were employed at the upper works. At 10 the
remaining twelve artificers landed and continued at work till 4 P. M.,
when the whole returned on board of the vessel. At 5, the joiners and
smiths again went to the Beacon, and remained till half-past 8.
[Sidenote: Monday, 8th.]
At 6 A. M., the artificers employed at the Beacon landed, and at noon
the low-water workmen followed, and returned on board again at 5 P.
M. At 9, the joiners and smiths also returned to the vessel for the
night. The weather was so fine to-day, that the crew of the Tender were
enabled to paint her upper works; for, although this had been intended
all the season, yet the present was the first favourable opportunity.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 9th.]
[Sidenote: Artificers return to Arbroath.]
The weather still continued moderate, but as the tides became neap,
little could now be done to the Railways. The operations were,
therefore, confined, at this time, chiefly to the upper works of
the Beacon. At 6 A. M., eight artificers went to the Beacon, and at
half-past 10, the other twelve landed on the Rock, and remained till
half-past 1. At 6 P. M., the whole came on board, when the vessel made
sail for Arbroath, to wait the return of spring-tides.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 13th.]
[Sidenote: Tender sails for the Rock.]
The Sir Joseph Banks having been supplied with necessaries for the
ensuing spring-tides, left Arbroath at 2 A. M., having in tow the
Hedderwick praam-boat; and at 2 P. M., both the ship and praam
were made fast to their respective moorings, when six joiners and
two smiths were landed on the Beacon. At 5, the remaining eighteen
artificers landed on the Rock, and continued till 9, when the whole
returned on board of the Tender, after a good evening’s work at the
Railways and cabins of the Beacon.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 14th.]
[Sidenote: Joiners get high premiums. One of them is hurt.]
At half-past 6 A. M., twenty-seven artificers landed on the rock,
and returned again at half-past 9. At half-past 10, the joiners and
smiths again went to the Beacon, and at 6 P. M. the remaining eighteen
artificers landed, and the whole returned to the ship at half-past 9;
the masons having been six hours and a half on the rock to-day, while
the joiners and smiths were about fourteen hours at work on the rock
and Beacon together, so that their premiums for extra hours’ work,
independently of their stated pay and allowances, were considerable,
averaging about L. 3 per month for the workmen, and double that sum
for the foremen. Unfortunately, one of the joiners was pretty severely
hurt, by the fall of a mason’s pick upon one of his feet, from the
smith’s gallery on the Beacon, which disabled him for some time from
working in the water.
[Sidenote: Monday, 15th.]
[Sidenote: The work makes rapid progress.]
The weather continuing moderate, and the tides being good, the work
went on without interruption during these tides. This morning at
half-past 6 o’clock, twenty-seven artificers landed on the rock, and
continued till a quarter past 10. At noon, the joiners and smiths
returned to the Beacon, and commenced their operations, as usual,
at the higher parts of it; and at half-past 6, or at low-water, the
remaining eighteen artificers landed, when the whole were employed
at the railways, fixing mooring rings, and laying down small
floating-buoys as guides for the landing-master, in approaching the
rock from the westward with the loaded praams. In all these operations,
the sailors took an active part, and the number of hands at work
to-day, including them, amounted to thirty-eight. In this manner,
the work was continued without any material interruption during five
days. The low-water operations, including the night-tides, generally
continued for six hours, and the joiners and smiths, for twelve or
fourteen hours each day.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 20th.]
[Sidenote: One of the Buoys gets water-logged. Tender leaves her
station.]
The wind, which had been easterly during these spring-tides, continued
moderate till yesterday, when it blew what sailors term a _stiff
breeze_, which soon set up a considerable sea upon the Rock, and the
tides being now in the state of neap, no landing was attempted to-day.
One of the mooring buoys having got water-logged, must soon have
disappeared and sunk, had not the Tender been hauled alongside, when
it was taken upon deck. An auger-hole was bored in it and the water
let off, being what the sailors term “_bleeding_;” when the hole was
closed with a plug, and the buoy was again lowered in the water, and
floated as before. The spring-tides being now considered over, the
Tender sailed for the bay of Arbroath, where she was made fast to a set
of moorings laid down for the conveniency of the work during the summer
months, and at 8 P. M. the artificers came on shore in the boats.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 21st.]
[Sidenote: Tender again sails for the Rock.]
The operations at the Rock, during the last spring-tides, had exhausted
the stock of timber, of which a great quantity could not be kept
either on board of the Tender, or on the Beacon, while much loss and
inconveniency had frequently been experienced by attempting to keep it
afloat in rafts. At 5 o’clock this morning, the boats left Arbroath
with seventeen artificers, and two rafts of timber, which were taken on
board of the Tender, when she immediately sailed for the Bell Rock. But
there being little wind, it was 7 in the evening before she was made
fast to her moorings; and, from the state of the tide, no landing was
made this evening.
[Sidenote: Monday, 22d.]
[Sidenote: Great exertions made in laying the circular track of
Railway.]
The weather was moderate to-day, and, at 9 A. M., Mr Watt and the
artificers left the vessel for the Beacon; but the wind having been
at S.E., it was with great difficulty that a landing was effected. At
half-past 11, the masons and other low-water artificers landed, and
proceeded with the operations of the railways; but the spring-tides
being as yet very languid, little work was done, and the boats returned
to the Tender in about an hour and a half. The joiners and smiths,
however, continued their operations on the higher parts of the Beacon
till 9 P. M. Had it not been a matter of extreme importance to get the
circular track of the Railway completed, so that the waggons might
be wheeled round the site of the building, and the materials brought
within reach of the building-cranes in every direction, as will be
understood from Plates VI. and IX., the artificers, at this period of
the tides, would not have remained at the Rock, but have returned to
the work-yard at Arbroath. In this stage of the work, however, the
gaining of a single tide was an object of great moment to its future
progress.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 23d.]
[Sidenote: Attempt made to erect one of the cranes.]
The artificers employed at the Beacon, landed upon it at 6 o’clock
A.M., being then high-water. At 12 noon, one of the building cranes
was brought to the Rock in a praam, by the landing-master’s crew;
but, as the water did not leave the Rock sufficiently for getting hold
of the ring-bats of the guy-tackles, the crane could not be set up:
it was therefore laid upon the building, and made fast to Lewis-bats
fixed in the upper course, and left in that state for the present.
The praam-boat was towed to her moorings at 2 o’clock P. M., but the
joiners and smiths continued at work till 10 o’clock, when they came on
board of the Tender.
[Sidenote: Smeaton sails with the first stones this season.]
Things being now in a state of preparation for commencing the building
operations for the season, the sloop Smeaton was loaded with twenty-six
blocks of stone belonging to the Fifth course. She had also on board a
few casks of pozzolano, cement, lime, and sand, with trenails, wedges,
and other materials connected with the building. At 5 P. M., the writer
embarked with Mr Peter Logan the building-foreman, Captain Wilson
the landing-master, and fifteen masons, and sailed for the Bell Rock
with the first cargo of stones for this season’s operations. The wind
was moderate, but being easterly, it was not till 9 o’clock that the
vessel reached the floating-light, when the writer, accompanied by the
landing-master, went on board to examine her moorings after the gales
of winter, while the Smeaton continued her course to the Bell Rock.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 24th.]
[Sidenote: Floating light’s moorings examined.]
The last night was the first that the writer had passed in his old
quarters on board of the Floating-light for about twelve months, when
the weather was so fine, and the sea so smooth, that even here he felt
but little or no motion, excepting at the turn of the tide, when the
vessel gets into what the seamen term the _trough of the sea_. At 5
A. M., all hands were called to man the windlass for heaving up the
moorings, consisting of a cast-iron mushroom anchor, weighing 17 cwt.,
and forty fathoms of chain, made from bars of iron one and a half
inch square, and a hempen cable of 120 fathoms, measuring 16 inches
in circumference. At 6, the crew began to lay the part of this cable
upon deck that had been in the hold, and afterwards to heave up that
which was in the water: the whole was found in a serviceable condition,
excepting where the operation of _worming and rounding_ had been used
to defend the part which was most liable to be chafed on the ground.
This operation consists in warping a small rope of about two and a
half inches in circumference, round between the strands or hollows in
the cable, so as to give the whole a more uniform surface. This small
rope, however, was found in several places, to cut yarns of the cable,
and appeared to be attended with very bad consequences. The master
and mate therefore concurred in opinion, that the worming should be
discontinued in future, as the small rope stretched more than the
cable, and chafed it. There was also a small rope wound round the cable
in a circular form, which, being laid with parcelling, or strips of
canvas, was a good defence to it.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 24th.]
[Sidenote: State of the Floating-light’s Moorings.]
At 8 A. M., the best bower-anchor and cable were in readiness to be
let go, to hold the ship while the mushroom-anchor was lifted. The
crew then began to heave up the mooring-chain, which had now been in
the water upwards of two years. The first 10 fathoms of the chain were
distinctly observed to have suffered by the action of the marine acid.
The links had a grooved-like appearance, perhaps, from the softer
parts of the iron being wasted, in the lengthway of the link, and
those parts which were more hard were observed in a raised form like
threads; but at the weldings or joinings of the links, where the iron
was more consolidated, from having received additional beating, it had
not suffered oxidation in the slightest degree. The next 10 fathoms of
the chain had also a slight appearance of waste. It may be remarked,
that the half of the chain next to the hempen cable, was generally
suspended between the ship and the ground, in moderate weather, and
was therefore more exposed to waste from the current of the tides than
the half next to the anchor. On heaving up this last part, which lay
chiefly on the ground, it was found to be almost as free of rust, some
trifling spots excepted, as when it was first laid down: in general,
the hammer marks, and even somewhat of the bluish appearance peculiar
to the surface of forged iron, were perceptible. The mushroom-anchor
had not sustained the slightest change, and, although the ground was
rather soft, did not appear to have been imbedded in the mud; so that
the ship had rode chiefly by the weight of the chain. On narrowly
examining it, when laid upon deck, two of the links were observed to be
insufficient, the rust having exposed the faulty parts to view. These
defective links were accordingly broken out or removed, and the sound
ones connected by means of shackles, kept on board for this purpose. At
noon, after seven hours of hard labour, the examination of the moorings
was completed, and the writer left the Floating-light, accompanied by
the landing-master, to attend the work on the Rock at low-water.
[Sidenote: State of the works at the Rock.]
At 6 A. M. Mr Watt, who conducted the operations of the Railways and
Beacon-house, had landed with nine artificers. At half-past 1 P. M.,
Mr Peter Logan had also landed with fifteen masons, and immediately
proceeded to set up the crane, which still lay lashed to the building.
The sheer-crane or apparatus for lifting the stones out of the
praam-boats at the eastern creek had been already erected, and the
Railways now formed about two-thirds of an entire circle round the
building: some progress had likewise been made with the Reach towards
the western landing-place. The external framing of the cabins of the
Beacon was in the state described in the second year’s work, and
partly represented in Plate IX. The floors being also laid, the Beacon
now assumed the appearance of a habitation. The Smeaton was at her
moorings, with the Fernie Praam-boat astern, for which she was laying
down moorings, and the Tender being also at her station, the Bell Rock
had again put on its former busy aspect. At 11 A. M., the Hedderwick
praam was loaded with 11 stones, which were safely landed upon the
Rock: and at 2 P. M. the Fernie was loaded with 16 stones, and towed to
her moorings, to wait the proper time of tide for getting to the Rock.
The Smeaton being discharged, she sailed for Arbroath at 5 P. M.
[Sidenote: Plants and Animals on the building.]
The wind was from the east, with light airs, and there was hardly any
ruffle or motion on the surface of the water. The masons were chiefly
employed during this tide in clearing the upper course of the building
from sea-weed, of which, since the month of September, it had acquired
a thick coating. The weed consisted chiefly of _Fucus digitatus_,
which, on the new wall, had attained the length of about 18 inches,
with a proportional thickness of stalk and breadth of frond, during the
preceding eight or nine months. The barnacle was also pretty numerous,
and a good many white buckies and small mussels had attached themselves
to several parts of the building. The masons left the Rock this evening
at 6 o’clock, having had four hours and a half’s work; but the joiners
and smiths continued till 10 P. M., and had therefore been 16 hours on
the Rock to-day.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 25th.]
At half-past 2 this morning, the landing-master’s bell was rung on
board of the Tender; and at a quarter past 3, the writer landed with
fifteen masons, nine mill-wrights and joiners, two blacksmiths, and ten
seamen, in all thirty-six, with their respective foremen. The low-water
work continued two hours and a half, when those employed at the Beacon
were left as usual to continue their operations. In the afternoon, at 3
o’clock, the builders were again landed, and remained on the Rock till
8, having been five hours at work, when all hands returned on board of
the Tender.
[Sidenote: Friday, 26th.]
The wind had shifted to the south, with fresh breezes, which set a
considerable sea upon the Rock. The boats landed the artificers at a
quarter past 3 this morning, who continued on the Rock till a quarter
past 6, when it was overflowed. They landed again at a quarter past 3
P. M., and remained till a quarter past 6, when all hands returned on
board of the Tender for the night. The masons, for the two last days,
were employed in cutting out the square joggle-holes in the upper
course of last season’s work, represented with deep shaded lines in
Plate XIII., which were not, as usual, cut in the respective stones
before they left the work-yard, that there might be the less resistance
to the waves during the storms of winter. The seamen were employed
this tide in landing wedges and trenails, with cement, lime, sand, and
pozzolano, the necessary materials for mortar: these were stowed on the
mortar gallery or the lower floor of the Beacon-house; which, in a work
of this nature, was found to be of inestimable value for this purpose.
The mill-wrights, joiners, and smiths continued their operations as
formerly at the Railways and upper part of the Beacon.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 27th.]
[Sidenote: Builders commence and lay 5 stones.]
The landing-master’s bell rung this morning at half-past 4, and at
a quarter past 5, the artificers and seamen, thirty-six in number,
commenced work, and continued for 2 hours and a half. The crane having
been raised, and the necessary preparations made for beginning the
building for the season, five stones of the Fifth course were landed
and laid. In the afternoon, the artificers returned to the Rock at a
quarter past 4, and remained till 9, when other five stones were laid.
The seamen landed six stones with the Hedderwick praam, and sixteen
stones with the Fernie, being her first cargo. The mill-wrights,
joiners, and smiths, were employed at the Railways, and fitting up the
cabins of the Beacon-house.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 28th.]
[Sidenote: 22 stones laid.]
Landed this morning at half-past 5, and continued at work till a
quarter to 9; and, in the evening tide, the work commenced at a
quarter past 5, and continued till 9, when all hands left the Rock.
The landing-master’s crew brought two cargoes of the praam-boats to
the Rock, consisting of 22 stones, which were laid or built. During
the first and middle parts of these twenty-four hours, the wind was
from the west, blowing fresh, but towards the evening it shifted to the
N.E., with rain.
[Sidenote: Monday, 29th.]
[Sidenote: Tender rides very hard.]
The wind having blown fresh all night, and a considerable sea set up,
there was no possibility of landing on the Rock to-day. In the course
of the night it blew so fresh, that Captain Taylor struck the top-masts
of the Tender, launched in her boltsprit, hoisted the boats on board,
and had every thing in a state calculated to make her ride at her
moorings as easily as possible. At 2 P. M. the vessel pitched very
hard, and one of the mooring-hawsers having got foul of the cathead or
timber, the ship came with such a jerk, from the run of the sea, as was
sufficient to carry it away. But the Tender still kept her station,
in company with the sloop Smeaton, and the praam-boats Hedderwick and
Fernie.
[Sidenote: Tuesday 30th.]
[Sidenote: Apparatus on the Rock viewed from a boat.]
To-day the wind shifted from N.E. to west, but there was still too
heavy a sea for landing on the Rock. The writer being on board, looked
often and anxiously for the safety of the crane and the unfinished
course of the building. At low-water, he accompanied the landing-master
in a boat, and went round the Rock, when he had the satisfaction to
find that every thing had the appearance of being in good order.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 31st.]
[Sidenote: 13 stones laid. Landing rendered difficult from snow
showers.]
The landing-master’s bell, often no very favourite sound, rung at 6
this morning; but on this occasion, it is believed, it was gladly
received by all on board, as the welcome signal of the return of better
weather. At a quarter past 7, the artificers landed, and continued at
work four hours and a half. At 7 P. M. they landed again, and at 10 all
hands, 36 in number, returned to the Tender. The masons laid 13 stones
to-day, which the seamen had landed, together with other building
materials. During these twenty-four hours the wind was from the south,
blowing fresh breezes, accompanied with showers of snow. In the
morning, the snow showers were so thick, that it was with difficulty
the landing-master, who always steered the leading-boat, could make his
way to the Rock through the drift. But at the Bell Rock, neither snow,
nor rain, nor fog, nor wind, retarded the progress of the work, if
unaccompanied by a heavy swell or breach of the sea.
[Sidenote: 1809, June.]
[Sidenote: Thursday, 1st.]
[Sidenote: State of the weather. Zeal of the Writer’s assistants.]
The weather, during the months of April and May, had been uncommonly
boisterous, and so cold that the thermometer seldom exceeded 40°,
while the barometer was generally about 29.50. We had not only hail
and sleet, but the snow, on the last day of May, lay on the decks and
rigging of the ship to the depth of about three inches; and, although
now entering upon the month of June, the length of the day was the
chief indication of summer. Yet such is the effect of habit, and such
was the expertness of the landing-master’s crew, that, even in this
description of weather, seldom a tide’s work was lost. Such was the
ardour and zeal of the heads of the several departments at the Rock,
including Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder, Mr Francis Watt, foreman
mill-wright, and Captain Wilson, landing-master, that it was on no
occasion necessary to address them, excepting in the way of precaution
and restraint. Under these circumstances, however, the writer not
unfrequently felt considerable anxiety, of which this day’s experience
will afford an example.
[Sidenote: Eleven of the artificers left on the Beacon.]
This morning, at a quarter past 8, the artificers were landed as usual,
and, after three hours and three quarters’ work, 5 stones were laid,
the greater part of this tide having been taken up in completing the
boring and trenailing of the stones formerly laid. At noon, the writer,
with the seamen and artificers, proceeded to the Tender, leaving on
the Beacon the joiners, and several of these who were troubled with
sea-sickness, among whom was Mr Logan, who remained with Mr Watt,
counting altogether eleven persons. During the first and middle parts
of these twenty-four hours, the wind was from the east, blowing what
seamen term “fresh breezes;” but, in the afternoon it shifted to
E.N.E., accompanied with so heavy a swell of sea, that the Smeaton and
Tender struck their topmasts, launched in their boltsprits, and “made
all snug” for a gale. At 4 P. M. the Smeaton was obliged to slip her
moorings, and passed the Tender, drifting before the wind, with only
the foresail set. In passing, Mr Pool hailed that he must run for the
Firth of Forth, to prevent the vessel from “riding under.”
[Sidenote: They encounter a severe gale.]
On board of the Tender the writer’s chief concern was about the
eleven men left upon the Beacon. Directions were accordingly given
that every thing about the vessel should be put in the best possible
state, to present as little resistance to the wind as possible, that
she might have the better chance of riding out the gale. Among these
preparations, the best bower cable was bent, so as to have a second
anchor in readiness, in case the mooring hawser should give way, that
every means might be used for keeping the vessel within sight of the
prisoners on the Beacon, and thereby keep them in as good spirits
as possible. From the same motive the boats were kept afloat, that
they might be less in fear of the vessel leaving her station. The
landing-master had, however, repeatedly expressed his anxiety for the
safety of the boats, and wished much to have them hoisted on board. At
7 P. M., one of the boats, as he feared, was unluckily filled with sea
from a wave breaking into her, and it was with great difficulty that
she could be baled out and got on board, with the loss of her oars,
rudder, and loose thwarts. Such was the motion of the ship, that in
taking this boat on board, her gunwale was stove in, and she otherwise
received considerable damage. Night approached, but it was still found
quite impossible to go near the Rock. Consulting, therefore, the safety
of the second boat, she also was hoisted on board of the Tender.
[Sidenote: The Tender is also very uncomfortable.]
At this time, the cabins of the Beacon were only partially covered,
and had neither been provided with bedding nor a proper fire-place,
while the stock of provisions was but slender. In these uncomfortable
circumstances, the people on the Beacon were left for the night, nor
was the situation of those on board of the Tender much better. The
rolling and pitching motion of the ship was excessive; and, excepting
to those who had been accustomed to a residence in the Floating-light,
it seemed quite intolerable. Nothing was heard but the hissing of the
winds and the creeking of the bulk-heads or partitions of the ship:
the night was therefore spent in the most unpleasant reflections upon
the condition of the people on the Beacon, especially in the prospect
of the Tender being driven from her moorings. But even in such a
case, it afforded some consolation that the stability of the fabric
was never doubted, and that the boats of the Floating-light were at
no great distance, and ready to render the people on the Rock the
earliest assistance which the weather would admit. The writer’s cabin
being in the sternmost part of the ship, which had what sailors term a
good entry, or was sharp built, the sea, as before noticed, struck her
counter with so much violence, that the water, with a rushing noise,
continually forced its way up the rudder case, lifted the valve of the
water-closet, and overran the cabin floor. In these circumstances,
daylight was eagerly looked for, and hailed with delight, as well by
those afloat, as by the artificers upon the Rock.
[Sidenote: Friday, 2d.]
[Sidenote: The Artificers are relieved.]
In the course of the night, the writer held repeated conversations with
the officer on watch, who reported that the weather continued much in
the same state, and that the barometer still indicated 29.20 inches.
At 6 A. M., the landing-master considered the weather to have somewhat
moderated; and from certain appearances of the sky, he was of opinion
that a change for the better would soon take place. He accordingly
proposed to attempt a landing at low-water, and either get the people
off the Rock, or at least ascertain what state they were in. At 9 A.
M., he left the vessel with a boat well manned, carrying with him a
supply of cooked provisions, and a tea-kettle full of mulled port
wine, for the people on the Beacon, who had not had any regular diet
for about 30 hours, while they were exposed, during that period, in
a great measure, both to the winds and the sprays of the sea. The
boat having succeeded in landing, she returned at 11 A. M. with the
artificers, who had got off with considerable difficulty; and who were
heartily welcomed by all on board.
[Sidenote: Mr Logan’s account of the state of the Beacon.]
Upon enquiry, it appeared that three of the stones last laid upon the
building had been partially lifted from their beds by the force of the
sea, and were now held only by the trenails, and that the cast-iron
sheer-crane represented in Plate XI., had again been thrown down and
completely broken. With regard to the Beacon, the sea, at high-water,
had lifted part of the mortar gallery or lowest floor, and washed
away all the lime casks and other moveable articles from it; but the
principal parts of this fabric had sustained no damage. On pressing
Messrs Logan and Watt, on the situation of things in the course of the
night, Mr Logan emphatically said: “That the Beacon had an _ill-fared
twist_ when the sea broke upon it at high water, but that they were
not very apprehensive of danger.” On enquiring as to how they spent
the night, it appeared that they had made shift to keep a small fire
burning, and, by means of some old sails, defended themselves pretty
well from the sea sprays.
[Sidenote: James Glen’s exertions.]
It was particularly mentioned that, by the exertions of _James Glen_,
one of the joiners, a number of articles were saved from being
washed off the mortar gallery. Glen was also very useful in keeping
up the spirits of the forlorn party. In the early part of life, he
had undergone many curious adventures at sea, which he now recounted
somewhat after the manner of the Tales of the Arabian Nights. When one
observed that the Beacon was a most comfortless lodging, Glen would
presently introduce some of his exploits and hardships, in comparison
with which, the state of things at the Beacon bore an aspect of comfort
and happiness. Looking to their slender stock of provisions, and their
perilous and uncertain chance of speedy relief, he would launch out
into an account of one of his expeditions in the North Sea, when the
vessel being much disabled in a storm, was driven before the wind
with the loss of almost all their provisions; and the ship being much
infested with rats, the crew hunted these vermin, with great eagerness,
to help their scanty allowance. By such means, Glen had the address to
make his companions, in some measure, satisfied, or at least passive,
with regard to their miserable prospects upon this half-tide rock in
the middle of the Ocean. This incident is noticed, more particularly,
to shew the effects of such a happy turn of mind, even under the most
distressing and ill-fated circumstances.
[Sidenote: State of matters after the gale.]
The people from the Beacon had no sooner got safely on board of the
Tender, and were provided for, than the writer went to the Rock with
the landing-master, carrying along with them five artificers, and
landed, though not without considerable difficulty; for, although the
wind had shifted to the westward, yet there was still a very heavy
swell of sea. The first object at the Rock was to relay the three
stones which had been lifted about three inches off their beds. On
examining the Beacon narrowly, it appeared to be all in good order,
excepting the mortar gallery, which, as before noticed, had been
lifted, and all the lighter articles that could not be stowed in the
upper apartments, carried into the sea; and two of the four legs of the
sheer-crane were broken in pieces. But the crane upon the building,
fortunately still kept its erect position. After fixing the three
stones and making these remarks, the boat after two hours’ absence
returned to the Tender.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 3d.]
[Sidenote: Tender obliged to leave her station.]
The wind was at N.W. to-day, so that the vessel rode with her stern
towards the Rock; and as it came to blow excessively hard, there was
some danger, in the event of any thing giving way, that she might drift
upon the Rock. Accordingly, Mr Taylor, who commanded the Tender, came
into the writer’s cabin between 1 and 2 o’clock this morning, and,
after some consultation, it was thought advisable to slip the hawser,
and to stand with the ship towards the land. It then blew so fresh,
that though the sails were double reefed when the vessel got under way,
it was still found necessary to take in a third reef in the mainsail,
and at 6 A. M. she got into the harbour of Arbroath.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 4th.]
At this time the sea was in such a state of agitation with the shifting
and violence of the winds, that apprehensions were entertained about
the safety of the sloop Smeaton, as she was deeply laden when she
left her moorings, especially as her cargo was quite invaluable to
the progress of the works of this season. At 5 o’clock this morning,
however, Mr Pool made his appearance with the vessel, and got safely
into the harbour of Arbroath.
[Sidenote: Thursday 8th.]
[Sidenote: Progress of the works at Arbroath.]
In the work-yard, the hewing or cutting of the several courses went on
with great alacrity: the freestone masons were now at work as high as
the Twentieth and Twenty-first courses, and the granite masons had
completed the Sixteenth course, which was now lying on the platform,
marked and ready for shipment. A great stock of lime, in a pounded
state, had been prepared, and a quantity of clean sharp sand collected,
which were put up in separate casks. A large supply of oaken trenails
and wedges was also made up in bundles, each containing twenty-four
trenails, and a like number of pairs of wedges. The hewing of the
stones, and the preparation of the building materials, were placed
under the charge of Mr David Logan, as clerk of works; and the writing
of the books, disbursement of cash, and the dispatch of the vessels
with the materials, provisions and necessaries for the Rock, formed the
department of Mr Lachlan Kennedy, engineer’s clerk.
[Sidenote: Friday 9th.]
[Sidenote: 4 Stones are laid.]
The Tender and Smeaton having remained in port till last evening, both
vessels sailed for the Rock, and reached their moorings at 5 o’clock
A. M. The boats were immediately hoisted out, when the mill-wrights,
joiners and smiths, ten in number, landed on the Beacon, with their
foreman, and proceeded to the fitting up of the cabins. Notwithstanding
the hazardous situation upon the Beacon in which these artificers had
lately been placed, Mr Watt, with his principal assistant James Glen,
were not to be moved with trifles, and the work, as formerly, was
continued by the joiners’ squad of artificers during the whole day,
trusting to the eventual prospect of their being taken off by the boats
at night. At low-water, or about 3 P. M., Mr Peter Logan landed, with
the sixteen artificers who composed the builders’ squad, and the whole
left it again at 8 P. M. The three stones which had been re-laid on
the 2d of this month, having had the pozzolano mortar washed out by
the heavy sea, before it had time to fix, it was found necessary to
lift again, and lay them a third time. In the late gales, the casks
of lime and cement left on the Beacon having been washed off by the
sea, an entirely new stock was required. The praams were accordingly
employed in delivering the Smeaton and landing a supply of these
articles, together with four blocks of stone. The operations of the
building-artificers continued only three hours to-day, and no more than
four additional stones were laid.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 10th.]
[Sidenote: Patriot obliged to slip her moorings.]
The Patriot having now undergone a complete repair, she was loaded with
stones for the first time, and the writer took a passage in her to the
Bell Rock, when he had the pleasure of finding that she wrought or
sailed extremely well. She was made fast to her moorings at 6 A. M.,
but only one praam-load had been discharged from her to-day, when the
wind came suddenly from the N.E., and it was found necessary to let
slip her moorings at 6 P. M., when she made sail for the Firth of Forth.
[Sidenote: 10 Stones laid.]
[Sidenote: Artificers divided into squads.]
Notwithstanding the boisterous state of the weather, the artificers
were enabled to continue their visits to the Rock, and landed this
morning at 5. At this time they counted twenty-six, and were, as
formerly, divided into two squads; the mill-wrights, joiners, and
smiths, ten in number, wrought at the fitting up the Railways while
the Rock was accessible, and when it was covered with the tide, they
were employed in fitting up the Beacon-house. The operations of the
builders were as yet wholly confined to low-water work. Both squads
were attended, and occasionally assisted, by the landing-master’s crew
of about twelve sailors, who were always ready for every sort of work.
Including the low-water periods of morning and evening tides the whole
had six hours’ and a quarter’s work to-day, when ten stones were laid.
But those employed at the Beacon did not leave off till half-past 9 P.
M., having been sixteen hours upon the Rock, when all hands returned to
the Tender; and, owing to the bad state of the weather, the boats were
immediately hoisted on board.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 11th.]
[Sidenote: No landing on the Rock to-day.]
The wind was still from the N.E., accompanied with so heavy a swell of
sea, that it was found impossible to land this morning. At 12 noon,
all hands, forty-two in number, were assembled on deck, when prayers
were read as usual. At 5 P. M., the weather being somewhat more
moderate, the boats left the vessel with the artificers. But on a more
narrow inspection of the state of the sea upon the Rock, it was found
impracticable to effect a landing, and they returned to the Tender,
after having been about an hour absent. This evening, the Light-house
Yacht came to the Bell Rock from her first voyage to the Northern
Light-houses for the season, but there was too much sea for making
her fast to any of the moorings. Captain Calder, after ascertaining
that all was well, laid the Yacht to for the night, and kept the
Floating-light in view.
[Sidenote: Monday, 12th.]
[Sidenote: 17 stones laid.]
[Sidenote: Ships belonging to the service.]
The wind having fortunately shifted to the S.W., in the course of the
night, the weather became more moderate, and at a quarter past 6 the
artificers landed. Including both tides, the builders had seven hours’
work to-day, and laid seventeen stones, those employed at the Beacon
continuing at work throughout the day. The Smeaton having arrived from
Arbroath with another cargo of stones, and the Patriot from Largo Bay,
in the Firth of Forth, where she had run for shelter, the Rock had now
a very busy appearance, the following vessels belonging to the service
being at their respective moorings, viz. the Light-house Yacht; the
Sir Joseph Banks Tender; the Sloops Smeaton and Patriot, besides the
Hedderwick and Fernie decked Praam-boats; and at the distance of about
two miles and a half, the Floating-light was stationed as represented
in Plate V.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 13th.]
[Sidenote: 12 stones laid.]
The artificers landed this morning at the Rock, at a quarter past
6, and had three hours’ and a half’s work; and in the evening, the
builders again returned at 7 o’clock, and remained three hours and a
quarter, when the whole left the Rock. In the course of this day twelve
stones were laid, which discharged the Patriot, and she returned to
Arbroath for another cargo.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 14th.]
[Sidenote: 21 stones laid.]
At 7 this morning, the whole of the artificers land, and have four
hours and a quarter of low-water work, when 21 stones are laid. In the
evening, they land again at half-past 6, and have three hours’ and
three quarter’s work in completing the boring and trenailing of the
stones of the course which had already been built. The landing-master’s
crew discharged the Smeaton’s cargo to-day, consisting of twenty-six
blocks, together with four casks of pozzolano, four casks of lime, four
casks of sand, one cask of cement, three bundles of oaken trenails, and
six bundles of wedges; and at 8 o’clock P. M. she sailed for Arbroath.
The cargo of the Smeaton was partly landed upon the Rock; but,
calculating upon the settled appearance of the weather, the greater
part of it kept on board of the praams at their moorings.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 15th.]
[Sidenote: 18 stones laid.]
At a quarter from 7 o’clock this morning the artificers landed, and
having had five hours’ and a quarter’s work, eight stones were laid,
and the remainder of the tide was occupied in boring and trenailing.
In the evening, at half-past 6, they again landed and laid eighteen
stones, having had five hours’ and a half’s work. The Patriot arrived
from Arbroath with another cargo, consisting of thirty-nine blocks
of stone, four casks of pozzolano, four casks of lime, four casks of
sand, four bundles of wedges, and four bundles of trenails. There were
thirty-six blocks of stone landed to-day on the Rock, with the above
materials. The stones, when landed, were laid on the south-west side of
the building till those previously built were trenailed; and the lime,
&c. were carried up to the mortar-gallery on the Beacon. The three
remaining stones of this cargo were left on board of one of the praams
at her moorings, and the Patriot thus discharged, again sailed for
Arbroath at 9 P. M. to load another cargo.
[Sidenote: Friday, 16th.]
[Sidenote: 24 stones laid.]
[Sidenote: Great exertions used in supplying materials.]
This morning, at a quarter past 7, the artificers landed on the Rock,
and had an excellent tide’s work, which continued for five hours and
a quarter, when 24 stones of the Patriot’s last cargo were laid.
Landing again at half-past 8 in the evening, they continued at work an
hour and a quarter, when four stones were laid; and at 10 o’clock all
hands left the Rock; the joiners, smiths, and such of the masons as
were inclined, having been, as usual, left all day on the Beacon, had
their victuals sent to them from the Tender. In the present favourable
state of the weather, through the exertions of Mr Lachlan Kennedy,
in dispatching the vessels, both by night and day, and also by the
activity of Captains Pool of the Smeaton, and Macdonald of the Patriot,
the work was largely and regularly supplied with building materials.
The Smeaton having returned with a cargo from Arbroath, was made fast
to her moorings at 11 this morning; but, as the wind blew strongly from
the westward, it was found impracticable to land any stones to-day,
without the greatest risk of injuring the materials. About mid-day,
after the landing-master’s crew had taken the artificers on board of
the Tender, they towed the Fernie praam-boat alongside of the Smeaton,
and endeavoured to load her, but it was found impracticable; and, after
three stones had been laid on the praam’s deck, any further attempt was
given up.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 17th.]
[Sidenote: 7 stones laid.]
[Sidenote: Artificers left all night on the Beacon.]
At 8 A. M., the artificers and sailors, forty-five in number, landed
on the Rock, and, after four hours’ work, seven stones were laid.
The remainder of this tide, from the threatening appearance of the
weather, was occupied in trenailing, and making all things as secure as
possible. At 12 noon, the Rock and Building were again overflowed, when
the masons and seamen went on board of the Tender, but Mr Watt, with
his squad of ten men, remained on the Beacon throughout the day. As it
blew fresh from the N.W. in the evening, it was found impracticable
either to land the building-artificers, or to take the artificers off
the Beacon, and they were accordingly left there all night, but in
circumstances very different from those of the 1st of this month. The
house being now in a more complete state, was provided with bedding,
and they spent the night pretty well; though they complained of having
been much disturbed at the time of high-water, by the shaking and
tremulous motion of their house, and by the plashing noise of the sea
upon the mortar gallery. Here James Glen’s versatile powers were again
at work, in cheering up those who seemed to be alarmed, and in securing
every thing as far as possible. On this occasion, he had only to recall
to the recollections of some of them the former night which they had
spent on the Beacon, the wind and sea being then much higher, and their
habitation in a far less comfortable state.
[Sidenote: Smeaton and Patriot slip their moorings.]
The Patriot came to the Rock this morning from Arbroath, loaded chiefly
with timber and apparatus for the works of the Beacon. At 5 A. M.,
Captain Wilson, the landing-master, and his crew, made a second attempt
to deliver the Smeaton of her cargo, but were only enabled to get
out other five stones, with which the Fernie praam was towed to her
moorings, without being able to land upon the Rock. The wind still
continuing to blow fresh from the N.W., at 5 P. M., the writer caused
a signal to be made from the Tender for the Smeaton and Patriot to let
slip their moorings, when they ran for Lunan Bay, an anchorage on the
east side of the Redhead. Those on board of the Tender spent but a very
rough night, and, perhaps, slept less soundly than their companions on
the Beacon, especially as the wind was at N.W., which caused the vessel
to ride with her stern towards the Bell Rock; so that, in the event of
any thing giving way, she could hardly have escaped being stranded upon
it.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 18th.]
[Sidenote: 16 stones laid.]
The weather having moderated to-day, the wind shifted to the westward.
At a quarter past 9 A. M., the artificers landed from the Tender, and
had the pleasure to find their friends who had been left on the Rock
quite hearty, alleging that the Beacon was the preferable quarters of
the two. The builders laid 16 stones in four hours and a half, when
the whole returned on board of the Tender; and at 3 P. M. all hands,
counting fifty-four, assembled upon deck to prayers. In the evening,
at 9, the artificers again landed, and left off work at a quarter from
12 o’clock at night, having been employed in boring, trenailing, and
wedging the stones which had been built in the morning.
[Sidenote: Monday, 19th.]
[Sidenote: Remarkable breach of sea upon the Rock.]
The wind was at N.E. to-day, with gentle breezes, but accompanied
by the heaviest swell of sea which had yet been observed at the
Bell Rock. It was what seamen term a Ground Swell, and, although
the landing-master’s crew were employed alongside of the Smeaton,
in loading the praams, the surface of the water being comparatively
smooth, yet the breach upon the Rock was truly surprising. It is when
the sea is in this state,--being the result no doubt of a distant
gale of wind,--that the sprays conducted by a building, rise to such a
height as is represented in the Vignette of Smeaton’s Narrative of the
Edystone Light-house. In the forenoon, the writer, accompanied by the
landing-master, in a well manned boat, went off to observe the effect
of the breach of the sea upon the building and apparatus. The work had
now attained the height of about 8 feet, on which one of the cranes was
erected, the top of which was about 30 feet above the low-water mark.
In the course of this tide, the sea, at the meeting of the waves round
the building, was observed to rise in the most beautiful conical jets,
of about 30 or 40 feet in diameter at the base, to the height of 10
or 15 feet above the crane. Between these seas, but more particularly
at low-water, it was observed with a telescope, that some of the last
laid stones had been partially lifted; but others, which had not been
trenailed, it was feared had been washed off the building.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 20th.]
[Sidenote: 3 stones in danger of being washed away.]
At 11 A. M., the boats landed, with much difficulty to-day, in order to
ascertain the state of the building and apparatus. On examination it
was happily found, that none of the stones were lost, and that those
observed yesterday to have been lifted off their beds, were the three
which had not been trenailed, but which being fortunately confined
by two of the jumpers or boring-irons left in the trenail holes of
the lower course, were thus held in their places. After laying these
stones, the remainder of this tide, which lasted for three hours and a
quarter, was occupied in grouting or filling the perpendicular joints,
and plastering them over with Parker’s Roman cement, to preserve the
pozzolano mortar. At this period, it not only happened to be rough
weather, but the building being now at that height, relatively to the
tides, which seamen term “Between wind and water,” the upper part of
the work was exposed to the wash of every wave towards high-water.
It was, therefore, often found necessary to repeat the grouting of
the same joints with mortar several times. As the evening tide fell
wholly under night, the building artificers did not land; but the squad
employed at the Beacon and Railways remained at the Rock throughout the
day, and were, indeed, only restrained from taking up their quarters
also for the night, in consequence of a positive injunction which the
writer thought it prudent to enforce, until the Beacon should be in a
more habitable state.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 21st.]
[Sidenote: 22 stones laid.]
The artificers employed at the Beacon landed upon it this morning
at 7 o’clock; and, at a quarter past 11, the builders landed, and
continued at work till 4 P. M., having had five hours’ and a quarter’s
work, when 22 stones were laid. The landing-master’s crew, at the same
time, transported 19 blocks to the Rock with the praam-boats, which
completely discharged the Smeaton of her cargo of 32 stones, four
casks of pozzolano, and a similar quantity of cement, lime, and sand,
with four bundles of trenails, and the like number of wedges, when she
immediately left her moorings.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 22d.]
[Sidenote: Great waste of mortar.]