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Transcriber's note
Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
Text enclosed by tilde characters is underlined
(~underlined~).
A carat character is used to denote superscription. A
single character following the carat is superscripted
(example: THO^S).
[Illustration: BELL ROCK LIGHT HOUSE
_DURING A STORM FROM THE NORTH EAST_.
Drawn by J. M. W. Turner R. A.
Engraved by J. Horsburgh.]
AN ACCOUNT OF THE BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE,
Including the Details of the Erection and Peculiar Structure
of That Edifice.
To Which Is Prefixed a Historical View of the Institution and
Progress of the Northern Light-Houses.
Illustrated with Twenty-Three Engravings.
Drawn Up by Desire of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-Houses,
by
ROBERT STEVENSON,
Civil Engineer;
Fellow of the Royal Society of Edinburgh;
Member of the Society of Scotish Antiquaries, of the
Wernerian Natural History Society,
and of the Geological Society of London;
Engineer to the Northern Light-House Board, and to the Convention
of Royal Boroughs of Scotland.
Edinburgh:
Printed for Archibald Constable & Co. Edinburgh;
Hurst, Robinson & Co. 90. Cheapside; and Josiah Taylor, 50. High
Holborn,
London.
1824.
TO
THE KING.
_SIRE_,
_It is with much diffidence that the author now lays before Your
Majesty, an Account of the arduous national undertaking of erecting a
Light-house on the Bell Rock,--a sunk reef, lying about eleven miles
from the shore, and so situated as to have long proved an object of
dread to mariners on the eastern coast of Scotland, especially when
making for the Friths of Forth and Tay._
_This edifice being of the utmost consequence to the safety of
Your Majesty’s Ships of War upon the North Sea station, and of the
commercial shipping of this part of the empire, he presumes to hope
for Your Majesty’s favourable acceptance of his work. From the known
partiality, also, of Your Majesty for naval excursions, which so
recently led the Royal Squadron within a comparatively short distance
of the Bell Rock Light-house, in the course of Your Majesty’s most
gracious Visit to your ancient Kingdom of Scotland, he flatters himself
that Your Majesty may feel an additional interest in the subject of
this volume._
_The Introduction to this work brings generally under Your Majesty’s
notice, the important labours of the Scottish Light-house Board,
appointed by an act of the 26th Parliament of Your Majesty’s
illustrious FATHER. Since that period, Light-house stations have been
partially extended over the whole northern shores of Your Majesty’s
British dominions, from Inchkeith in the Firth of Forth, to the Isle
of Man in the Irish Sea, including in this circuit the Hebrides, and
Orkney and Shetland Islands. Much, however, still remains to be done;
and the Board is gradually proceeding, as the state of its funds will
permit, in placing additional Sea-Lights on certain intermediate points
of the coast._
_It cannot fail to be gratifying to Your Majesty to learn, as the
result of the exertions of this Board, that the mariner may now
navigate those regions with a degree of security and confidence quite
unknown to Your Majesty’s Royal Ancestor JAMES THE FIFTH, when he
sailed around this coast in the 16th century, or even, at a recent
period, to Your Majesty’s Royal Brother WILLIAM HENRY Duke of Clarence,
when in early life he traversed those seas._
_With unfeigned sentiments of loyalty and attachment, the author
subscribes himself,_
_Your MAJESTY’S
Most devoted Subject and Servant,
ROBERT STEVENSON_.
THE
CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION.
HISTORICAL NARRATIVE OF THE INSTITUTION OF THE BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS,
AND PROGRESS MADE IN THE ERECTION OF THE NORTHERN
LIGHT-HOUSES.
Page
Early Voyages of the Scots. Extension of Trade. Charts of the Coast. 1-4
1786. Proposition for the establishment of a Light-house Board in
Scotland. Original act passed in 1786. Commissioners appointed.
First Meeting of the Board. Mode of raising Funds. 5-6
1787. Kinnaird-Head and Mull of Kintyre Light-houses. 6-8
1788. Light Duty found to be too small. Act of 1788. 9
1789. Island Glass, North Ronaldsay, and Pladda Light-houses.
Collectors of the Light-Duties appointed. 10-11
1791. Pladda distinguishing Light. Annual Supply and Inspection
of the Light-houses. Light-keepers’ Salary. Economical plan of
early Light-houses. 12-14
1793. Application for Additional Lights. State of the Light-house
Funds. 14-15
1794. Pentland Skerry Light-house. Writer’s first Voyage to the
North. Loss of the Sloop Elizabeth. Mr Balfour and Mr Riddoch
of Orkney presented with Pieces of Plate. 15-17
Act Incorporating the Commissioners into a Board or Body Politic.
Additional works at the Light-houses already built. Proposition
for altering Kinnaird-Head Light-house. 18-19
1801. Numerous Shipwrecks on the Island of Sanday. Proofs of a
severe winter in Orkney. Quarries at Sanday and Eda. Encroachments
of the Sea. Remarks on Ruble Building, and Houses with double
walls. Foundation-Stone of Start Point Light-house laid. Reverend
Walter Traill’s Address upon this occasion. 19-23
1803. Inchkeith Light-house. Originally proposed as a Leading
Light. Duty for Inchkeith modified. Light-keepers Accommodations
extended. Construction of Light-rooms and Reflectors improved.
Inscription upon Inchkeith Light-house. Pilot’s guard-room.
Shipwrecked Seamen sheltered. 24-29
1806. Start-Point Light exhibited, and North Ronaldsay Light-house
converted into a Beacon. List of 22 Shipwrecks on the Island of
Sanday, in the course of Twelve Years. Foreman and Artificers lost
in the Traveller. Captain Manby’s Apparatus, 30-34
Island of May Light-house. Patent ratified 1641; the Duty for
that Light complained of after the Union. Family of Scotstarvet
become Proprietors. Chamber of Commerce get that Light improved.
Portland Family become Proprietors. Loss of the Nymphen
and Pallas Frigates. Lord Melville, First Lord of the Admiralty,
applies to the Light-house Board, by whom the Duties and Island
of May are purchased. Additional apartments provided at the
Isle of May. Notice of the alteration of this Light and that of
Inchkeith. Pilot’s guard-room. 36-41
1815. Corsewall Light-house. Foundation-stone laid. Light
exhibited. 42-44
1818. Isle of Man Light-houses. Writer’s Report in the year 1802,
relative to the erection of Light-houses on the Isle of Man. Trade
of Liverpool applies to the Commissioners to erect them. Act of
1815, obtained by Sir W. Rae, with regard to these Lights.
Difficulty of fixing their Sites. Lights exhibited 1st February
1818. Sum expended by the Light-house Board, on the East Coast,
in the course of 10 years. 44-48
1821. Sumburgh-head Light exhibited. This House built with double
walls, 52
Carr Rock Beacon. List of 16 vessels wrecked there in the course of
nine years. Floating-Buoy moored off this dangerous Reef. Beacon
of Masonry designed, with Tide-machine and Bell-apparatus.
Dimensions of Carr Rock. Difficulties of this work. It is frequently
damaged in Storms. The upper part ultimately completed
with cast-iron, without the Alarm-Bell. 56-62
Duties exigible. Expence of Management. Accounts of the Light-house
Board made public. Application of the Funds, and disposal
of the Surplus. Practical Management. 63-64
ACCOUNT OF THE BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE.
CHAP. I.
NAME, SITUATION, DIMENSIONS, AND NATURAL HISTORY, OF THE BELL
ROCK.--DEPTH OF WATER, AND CURRENT OF THE TIDES IN ITS VICINITY.
Page
Origin of the Names Inch-Cape and Bell Rock. Tradition of a Bell
erected by one of the Abbots of Aberbrothock. 67-68
Situation, Dimensions, and Mineralogy of the Rock. Wasting effects
of the Sea. Proofs of its having occupied a higher Level. 69-71
Plants, Animals, Insect destructive to Timber. Experiment with
pieces of Timber fixed to the Rock. Mussels attempted to be
planted upon it. Habits of Fishes. 72-74
Depth of Water upon the Rock, and at the distance of 100 yards
from it. Tides at the Rock. Not accounted for by Writers on the
subject. Progress of the great Waves of the Tide. Periods of
High-water at different places in the Firth of Forth. Currents at
the Mouth of the River Dee. Water salt at bottom and fresh at top.
Phenomenon of _in_ and _off_ shore Tides. Tides of Mediterranean
and Baltic Seas. 75-81
CHAP. II.
POSITION OF THE BELL ROCK.--DESIGNS FOR THE LIGHT-HOUSE.--BILL
BY LORD ADVOCATE HOPE IN 1803.--BILL BY LORD ADVOCATE ERSKINE
IN 1806.--REPORT OF THE COMMITTEE OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS.--PASSING
OF THE BILL.
Dangerous Position of the Rock. Sir Alexander Cochrane’s Letter to
the Light-house Board. Great Storm in 1799. Expence of the
Light-house, as estimated by the Public. Designs by Captain Brodie
and Mr Cooper. Captain Brodie’s remuneration. The Writer’s first
visit to the Rock in the year 1800. Pillar-formed Building compared
with one of Stone. Mr Telford requested to give a Design. Mr
Downie’s Pillar-formed Design. 81-93
Bell Rock Light-house proposed at the Convention of Royal Burghs.
Lord Advocate Hope’s Bill is lost in the House of Lords in 1803. 94-95
The Light-house Board consults Mr Rennie, who visits the Rock with
Mr Hamilton, and the Writer. The Commissioners take the sense of
certain Ports relative to the measure. Reports of the Traders in
Leith and Berwick. Resolution of the Board to apply again to
Parliament. 94-98
Lord Advocate Erskine’s Bill 1806. Mr Hamilton and the Writer
go to London on this business. Loan from Government doubtful.
Board of Trade favourable to the Loan. Memorial to the Board
of Trade. Sir Joseph Banks’s exertions. Bill read first and
second times. Report brought up by Sir John Sinclair. Report
of the Committee. Bill meets with some opposition at the third
reading, but is passed. 100-105
CHAP. III.--1807.
FLOATING-LIGHT SHIP.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE OPERATIONS ON THE
ROCK.--ERECTION OF THE BEACON-HOUSE, AND PROGRESS OF THE
WORKS.
The Act provides for the mooring of a Floating-Light. Fishing
Dogger purchased, fitted out and moored, under the direction
of a Committee of the Trinity-House of Leith, and named the
Pharos. Peculiar construction of her Lanterns and Moorings.
She sails for her station. A Committee from Arbroath joins the
party at the Isle of May. Is anchored in a temporary birth. Her
moorings unexpectedly slip over-board, and are recovered with
much difficulty. Description of the Pharos. 107-114
Commencement of the Operations at the Rock. Sloop Smeaton.
Positions of the Beacon and Light-house fixed upon. First
trip of the Artificers to the Rock on the 7th August. Rate of
Wages. Letter from Aberdeen Masons. Lines from Dibdin. 115-120
Erection of the Beacon-House. Work commenced 18th August.
Method of fixing iron-bats into the Rock. Landing-master’s
duty. Indications of the state of the Weather. Dangerous
situation of the Rock in Foggy weather. Artificers amuse
themselves with fishing while the Rock is under water. The
fixing of the Smith’s Forge completed. Valuable services of the
Smiths on the Bell Rock. Much wanted at the Edystone. The Seals
desert the Rock. 120-126
Hampered state of the Artificers on ship-board. Inconveniencies
of the Pharos as a Tender. Difficulty of getting on board.
Artificers become expert rowers. Their rations of Provisions.
“Saturday-Night at Sea.” 127-130
Reasons for continuing the works upon the Rock during part of
Sundays. Preparations for having Prayers on deck. Prayer
composed by the Reverend Dr A. Brunton. Some of the Artificers
decline working on Sunday. Additional Pay for Sunday’s work. 131-135
Artificers work knee-deep in water during neap-tides. Operations
at the Rock entirely confined to the Beacon. Description of the
operation of boring holes in the Rock. Difficult situation of
the Smiths. 135-137
Wind-Gauge much wanted, to afford a better nomenclature to
Seamen. Difficult passage with the boats from the Rock to
the Tender. Life-Buoy streamed on this occasion. A Tender is
ordered exclusively for the service of the Rock. Some of the
Artificers apply for leave ashore. Landing made upon the Rock
after a gale. 138-141
Method of fixing the great iron-stanchions into the Rock.
Longest day’s work hitherto had upon it. Smeaton brings
off a cargo of stones for making the experiment of landing
them. Various methods suggested for this critical operation.
Stones first landed on the Rock. Mode originally adopted
for attaching the Stone-lighters to their moorings. Smeaton
breaks adrift. Perilous situation of those on the Rock.
Pilot-boat fortunately comes to their relief. The Boats have
a rough passage to the Floating-light. The Smeaton bears away
for Arbroath. Indispensable utility of the Beacon-house.
Eighteen of the Artificers decline embarking for the Rock.
The boats, nevertheless, proceed with the remaining eight.
Captain Pool’s account of the drifting of the Smeaton, 142-152
The comparative level of the site of the Building
ascertained. Full complement of Buoys moored. Floating-light
rides out a strong gale. State of the vessel. The Writer
consults with the Officers of the ship relative to the
probable effect of her breaking adrift. The gale takes off.
Appearance of the Sea on the Rock. The Floating-light breaks
adrift. Her cables supposed to have been cut by a piece of
wreck. Difficulty of managing this vessel. She is anchored
and moored in a new station. Her Light is first exhibited on
the 15th of September 1807. 153-164
Light-house Yacht for a time becomes the Tender at the Rock.
Artificers agree to continue on board of her beyond the term
of their engagement. An accident happens to one of the Boats. 164-165
The Smeaton arrives at the Rock, 18th September, with the
Beams of the Beacon-house. Preparations made, and four of the
principal ones erected. Method of raising them, and fixing
the great Iron-Stanchions. Seven hours’ work upon the Rock
in one ebb-tide. The remaining two principal, and four of the
supporting beams, erected. 166-171
The Boats have some difficulty in leaving the Rock. Shipping
dispersed in a gale. Land again after an absence of four
days. Smith’s Forge removed from the Rock to the Beacon.
Writer lands at Arbroath, after having been four weeks
afloat. 172-174
The vessels are again separated in a gale. A landing effected
at the Rock. State of the Beacon. Working hours extended.
Beacon-works finished for the season. Mr John Rennie, and his
son Mr George, visit the Rock. Number of days during which
the Artificers were at work. 175-180
Progress of Operations in the Work-yard. Writer visits the
Rock 22d November. State of the Beacon. Professor Playfair’s
observations about the unlocking of Screws. State of the
Floating-light. 181-188
CHAP. IV.--1808.
SHIPPING.--IMPLEMENTS.--BUILDING MATERIALS; AND PROGRESS OF
THE WORKS.
Praam-boats built with a water-tight ceiling or lining.
Method of mooring the Praam-boats. Attending boats, one of
which is fitted up as a Life-boat. 187-188
Railways, Waggons, Sheer-crane, Moveable-beam-crane,
Sling-cart, Carpenters’ Jack, Lewis-bat, Moulds, Coffer-dam,
Pumps, Winch-machine. 189-196
Mineralogy of eastern coast. Report of Messrs Rennie and
Stevenson, about Stone. The use of Granite resolved upon.
Mortar of the Ancients. Attention of the Moderns to this
subject. Mortar of the Edystone and Bell Rock, Lime,
Pozzolano, Sand, Water, Cement. Oaken trenails, and Wedges. 196-204
The Writer visits the Rock 30th March. Floating-light’s crew.
Light comparatively feeble. Landing at the Rock difficult.
State of the Beacon. Propriety of converting it into a
Barrack. Bread and Water chest. Advantages of the Beacon to
Shipping. 205-208
Impress-service affects the Operations. Protection-Medal
and Descriptive Ticket. Light-house Yacht on the station as
a Tender. Preparatory works. Use of Granite restricted to
lower courses of the building. Use of Sandstone extended. Mr
Skene’s contract for supplying Granite. 209-212
The Sir Joseph Banks Schooner takes her station as Tender
at the Rock. The Writer begins the operations of the season
25th May. State of the Foundation-pit. Difficult landing.
It is found necessary to excavate the Rock further, to a
greater depth. Artificers much afflicted with sea-sickness.
Misunderstanding about their Pay. Sailors men of all-works, 212-218
Mortar Gallery fitted up. Smeaton ballasted from the Bell
Rock. Fish caught in great abundance. 218-219
First entire course completed in the hewing, and laid on
the platform in the Work-yard at Arbroath, on the 4th June.
Its cubical contents. Certainty of commencing the building
operations this season. Arrangements with the artificers. How
employed. Interesting appearance of the Rock. They remain
there all day. Tender bears away for Leith Roads. The work
is continued on the Rock till midnight. Its appearance.
Artificers backward in landing, owing to the appearance of
the weather. 220-226
First entire course of the building removed from the
platform, to be shipped for the Rock, 14th June. Trial of the
Landing apparatus. Fifty Artificers land. Small ruble-walls
built instead of coffer-dam. Advantages of a Bell as a signal
in foggy weather. Force of the Sea upon the Rock. Artificers
sail for Arbroath. Pay and premiums of the Artificers this
month. They embark again for the Rock on the return of
Spring-tides. How employed. 227-235
Foundation-stone prepared, landed at high-water. Laid 10th
July, with masonic ceremony. 235-237
Price of Granite advanced. A raft of Timber goes adrift.
State of things at night on extinguishing the torches at the
Rock. First or foundation course, consisting of 18 stones,
finished 26th July. Force of habit exemplified in landing on
the Rock. Cargo of the first entire course landed 28th July.
The Smeaton makes a second trip in twenty hours. 4 stones
are laid. Advantage of cranes compared with sheer-poles. Mr
Smeaton’s plan in the use of trenails and wedges followed. 239-244
A party of gentlemen have a narrow escape at the Rock. First
entire course completed 12th August. One of the artificers
disabled in the work-yard at Arbroath. He receives an
annuity. Granite stones much wanted for the work. Second
entire course completed. Pumping of water discontinued at the
Rock 10th September. One of the artificers, by an accidental
bruise, loses a finger. Progress of the works stopped for
want of Granite. The Building brought to a level with the
higher parts of the Rock. 244-249
Great difficulty of landing. Two stones are loosened by the
force of the Sea. Praam-boats ride out a gale with great
ease. 31 stones laid in 6½ hours. One of the boats cannot
be got out of the eastern-creek. 15 stones laid. Weather very
boisterous. Engineer’s Clerk most active. 250-253
Unfortunate loss of James Scott, a sailor. His mother gets a
small annuity. 17 stones laid. Building closed for the season
21st September. Summary of Operations. Shipping dispersed
in a gale. State of things at the Rock after the gale. The
Writer sails on his annual trip to the Northern Light-houses.
Visits the Bell Rock on his return. Arrangements for the
Winter months. 253-256
CHAP. V.--1809.
PROGRESS OF THE WORKS.
Railways injured. Bracing-chains unlocked. Proofs of strong
currents in the Sea. Travellers or Drift-stones found
upon the Rock. Progress of works in the Yard at Arbroath.
Exertions in the Quarries. Captain Calder’s letter to Mr
Stevenson. Drift-stones removed. Joisting of platform lifted.
A vessel in danger of being wrecked at the Rock. Cast-iron
anchors. 257-262
Purchase of sloop Patriot. Floating-Light encounters
heavy Seas. 12th course completed by the stone-cutters.
Employment of Shipping. Patriot condemned. Opinion of
Mr Solicitor-General Boyle. Two Praam-boats launched.
Floating-light under the charge of Mr John Reid. Two sets of
moorings laid down. Tender slips her moorings. Other three
sets of moorings are laid down. 263-266
Artificers cannot land. The sailors account for the unsettled
state of the weather. The Writer visits the Rock 1st May.
Some timber is landed. Tender in danger of drifting upon the
Rock. Joiners and millwrights get high premiums. Works make
rapid progress. One of the floating-buoys gets water-logged.
Great exertions made to complete the circular reach of the
railway laid round the Building. Attempt made to erect a
crane. 266-271
The Smeaton sails for the Rock with the first cargo of stones
this season. Floating-Light’s moorings examined. State of
her moorings. Plants and Animals observed on the building.
Builders commence operations 27th May. Lay 5 stones. Tender
rides out a hard gale. Apparatus on the Rock, and state of
the Sea, viewed from a boat at a distance. Landing very
difficult. State of the Weather. 272-277
Zeal of the Writer’s Assistants. Eleven Artificers left upon
the Beacon. They encounter a severe gale. The Tender at
this time is very uncomfortable. Artificers relieved. Mr P.
Logan’s account of the Beacon during the gale. James Glen’s
exertions. State of matters at the Rock after the gale.
Tender obliged to leave her station. Progress of the works
at Arbroath. Patriot slips her moorings. Artificers divided
into squads. Shipping belonging to the Light-house service.
Building goes on, laying at the rate of from 12 to 20 blocks
per day. Great exertions made to supply materials. 276-284
Artificers are unavoidably left all night upon the Beacon.
Smeaton and Patriot slip their moorings. Remarkable breach
of the Sea upon the Rock. 3 stones are in danger of being
washed away. Great waste of mortar. 57 stones are laid in one
day. Cooking commenced on the Beacon 24th June. Situation
of mortar-makers and smiths upon the Beacon. Rope-ladder
extended between the Beacon and Building. Work stopped by a
simple mistake. 66 stones landed, and 38 laid on the 27th
of June. The work can now be continued after the Rock is
overflowed by the tide. 284-290
One of the artificers meets with a severe accident, of which,
however, he recovers. Have 10 hours’ work to-day, and lay
59 stones. Writer visits the Carr Rock, with a view to the
erection of a Beacon. Joiners, at their own desire, are now
left on the Beacon. Considered a favourable omen for the
inhabitation of the Light-house. 290-294
Tide for the first time does not overflow the building, 8th
July. Number of joiners reduced. Balance-crane begun to be
made. Tenth course completed. Building at the rate of 29 to
52 stones per day. The stone-lighters not loaded at Arbroath
on Sundays, 294-298
William Walker, accidentally killed at Arbroath. His widow
receives an annuity. One of the artificers remains alone on
the Beacon. Artificers take possession of it, along with
Peter Fortune. His character. The Praam-boats cannot approach
the Rock. 298-300
An embargo is laid on shipping throughout the Kingdom. Mr
Sheriff DUFF’S exertions to get the Light-house shipping
relieved. Operations at the Rock while the vessels are
detained in port. The embargo is taken off the Light-house
shipping. The propriety of stopping the Bell Rock vessels
doubted. 78 stones landed, and 40 built, on the 1st August.
Twenty-four artificers inhabit the Beacon-house. Mr Sheriff
DUFF visits the Rock. Building proceeds at the rate of from
22 to 23 stones per day. The Fly of Bridport narrowly escapes
shipwreck on the Bell Rock. Mr Sheriff HAMILTON visits the
Rock. Additional supports for the Beacon-house landed.
Sheer-crane broken. Some of the artificers get alarmed, and
leave the Beacon. Effects of the late gale. 300-306
The Writer takes possession of his cabin on the Beacon 15th
August. 52 stones landed, and eight built. One of the boats
of the Floating-light loses her way in thick weather. An
entire course of the building is laid in one day. Prayers
read for the first time in the Beacon-house. The Smeaton
arrives with the last cargo of stones for the solid part of
the Building. Building operations for the season concluded,
25th August. Notice of the very proper conduct of the
artificers. Floating-light breaks adrift. Probable height of
the waves of the sea in free space. Inducements for stopping
the building at this early period of the season. The Tender
continues on the station, and the artificers occupy the
Beacon-house for a time. Experience bad weather. 306-311
The Writer makes a trip to see the distinguishing-light at
Flamborough-head in Yorkshire. Is overtaken with a gale,
which he describes. Great want of a Public Harbour on the
eastern coast of England. Progress of this gale traced from
Shetland to Yarmouth Roads. Mr B. MILLS of Bridlington,
probably the first who suggested Distinguishing-lights with
red colour. 311-313
The Writer sails for the Northern Lights. State of the works
when closed for the season. Stool or prop for a crane upon
the Rock demolished in a gale of wind. Artificers visit the
Rock. Large Buoy has drifted and Floating-light has had bad
weather. 313-315
CHAP. VI.--1810.
PROGRESS AND COMPLETION OF THE WORKS.
The Tender visits the Rock and Floating-light, 5th January.
The Artificers cannot land again until the 11th March. Beacon
rendered very secure. Landing extremely precarious in winter. 317-319
Retrospective view of the works. Mylnefield and Craigleith
quarries. Practical inferences about concluding the works.
Timber Gangway or Bridge. Operations commence for the season.
Bridge erected at the Rock. One of the artificers gets
himself hurt. 320-324
Writer proceeds to the Rock to begin the building operations,
1st May. Praam-boats ride easily. State of the Building,
Beacon and Timber-bridge. Balance-crane landed upon the Rock.
Position of the entrance-door. Artificers take possession of
the Beacon for the working season. 324-329
The Smeaton arrives with the first cargo of stones for
the season. No communication with the Rock, 12th May.
Balance-crane ready for use. Theory of Sea and Land breezes.
Smeaton slips her moorings, and is driven up to Leith. 329-331
Patriot sent to Mylnefield quarry for the last cargo of
stones to be carried to Arbroath for the Light-house, 17th
May. State of the lower part of the Beacon, from the effects
of a marine insect. 23 blocks of stone landed, and raised
with the new tackle. One of the stones in danger from the
breaking of a bolt. The Smeaton makes rapid trips from
Arbroath to the Rock with materials. Prayers read for the
first time on the Building. Exertions of Landing-master’s
crew. 35th course completed. Arrangements for the conduct
of the works, and safety of the Beacon. Balance-crane shaft
unfortunately breaks. 332-336
The Writer is welcomed in at the door of the Light-house,
26th May. Fixtures of the Hinges of the Door and Windows.
Great expedition of the Shipping with the Materials. Patriot
makes one trip in 33 hours. 36th course laid. King’s
Birth-day observed, 4th June. 336-339
Stair-case of the Light-house completed, 5th June. Progress
of works at Edinburgh. Artificers liable to accident. Boat
and Life Buoy provided for the Beacon. Trenailing of the
stones of the building discontinued. Number of persons
inhabiting the Beacon. Fitting of the window-hinges tedious.
Comforts of good weather. Balance-crane shifted. 340-342
Moveable beam-crane erected on Western Wharf. 2 stones upset
by the force of the sea. A praam-boat is sent from the Rock
without delivering her cargo. Floor of the Lightroom-store
laid, 13th June. Mr John Reid gets leave on shore, after
having been about three months afloat. 341-344
First letter written from the Bell Rock Light-house. Its
floors, and those of the Edystone described. 31 persons
lodged in the Beacon. Pay and premiums of the artificers
at the Rock. Seamen find one of the lost sets of moorings.
Experiment of collecting Gas from Fishes. Cause of ground
swells. 344-347
Landing-master’s dress, and activity of his crew. Want of
the Western Wharf seriously felt. Operation of shifting the
Balance-crane. Western Wharf finished, 17th June. Remarkable
state of the sea at the Rock. Landing-master’s crew have now
more leisure. Disagreeable state of the weather. Responsible
situation of the principal workmen. 347-352
Carpenter of Floating-light leaves the service. Patriot makes
a trip to and from Arbroath in 24 hours. Attempts made to
land stones at high water with the bridge apparatus. Process
of landing stones. Seamen become discontented. The Writer’s
correspondence on this occasion. He goes on board of the
Tender. Dismisses two of the seamen. 352-357
Progress of the works at Arbroath. 62d course built at the
Rock. The artificers are wetted by the sea on the top of the
walls. Mr John Reid’s report regarding the Floating-light.
Narrow escape of William Kennedy, one of the masons. 357-361
Writer describes his cabin. The distressing case of George
Dall, an impressed seaman. Magistrates of Arbroath visit
the Rock. Number of artificers reduced to 22. Narrow escape
of the Smeaton at the Bell Rock. Advantage of alarm-bells.
Artificers in the Beacon-house greatly alarmed. 362-365
Progress of the Light-room works. Mrs Dixon, the late Mr
Smeaton’s daughter, visits the Bell Rock works at Edinburgh.
Mr D. Logan joins the works at the Rock. The Patriot is 7
days in being cleared of a cargo. Progress of raising the
stones to the top of the Light-house, 365-369
Last cargo of stones at Arbroath shipped for the Rock,
9th July. Library floor laid. Ring-bar-course laid. The
Dome-course occupies much time in building. 369-372
Landing-master’s crew reduced in number. Patriot driven from
the Rock. Ceremony observed at loading the last stone at
Leith. Many strangers visit the works in their present state.
Difficulty of raising and laying the stones of the cornice.
84th course completed. Eight stones of Balcony course laid.
This course completed 27th July. Ceremony at landing the last
stone. 372-377
Machinery partly dismantled, 31st July. Foot of Balance-crane
taken down. The Earl of Kellie, and Mr Sheriff Monypenny,
land at the Rock. Centre-stone of floor laid 3d August.
Artificers leave the Rock. The Writer meets with his
Assistants at Arbroath. 377-379
Plans arranged for building the Houses at Arbroath for the
families of the Light-keepers. The duty on stone charged upon
these buildings. Three years of the unexpired lease of the
work-yard given up. Base-line measured on the Sands of Barry.
Trigonometrical Survey of Great Britain alluded to. 379-383
Artificers return to the Rock. Smeaton obliged to leave her
station. Mortar gallery completely broken up by the sea. The
Tender returns to the Rock. The Smith’s anvil and bellows
washed off the Beacon. 383-386
Light-room sash-frames landed 23d August. Captain Wilson
is accidentally hurt by one of them. Last stone of the
Light-house laid, 2d September. 386-388
The Sir Joseph Banks Tender sails for Leith to be sold.
Praam-boat drifts from the Rock. Artificers for the erection
of the Light-room landed upon the Rock on the 14th of
October. The Writer sails for the Northern Light-houses,
accompanied by his friends Dr Barclay, Mr Oliphant, and
Mr Neill. Progress of the Light-room works on his return.
Unfortunate loss of Charles Henderson. Difficulty of
procuring red-coloured glass. Ventilating or Finishing
ball fixed upon the Cupola of the Light-room, 22d October.
Light-room glazed. Light-house Yacht loses one of her boats
off the Bell Rock. Great dexterity of the Landing-master and
his crew. 388-394
State of the Railways, Beacon, and Light-house. Condition
of the several apartments. House put under the charge of
Mr Reid, principal Light-keeper, 30th September. Small
boat washed off the Beacon. Sprays rise 104 feet upon
the Light-house. Seas fly from stem to stern of the
Floating-light. Mr Reid left with Peter Fortune in charge
of the Light-house. They experience a severe gale. Their
description of the effects of the Sea. 394-399
The Red-coloured Glass arrives at Edinburgh, 6th December.
Reflecting apparatus shipped for the Rock, and landed on the
15th. The Light is advertised to the Public on the 17th. List
of Newspapers in which the advertisement is inserted. The
Light-keepers are left in possession of the House, together
with Mr Forrest, general superintendant. 399-402
CHAP. VII.--1811.
ACCOUNT OF THE BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE, FROM ITS COMPLETION
TILL THE YEAR 1823, INCLUDING STATEMENTS OF THE EXPENCE,
QUANTITY OF MATERIALS AND WORKMANSHIP CONNECTED WITH THE WORK.
1811. The Light is exhibited on the 1st of February, when
the Floating-Light is extinguished. A Storm occurs on the
night that the House is lighted. Floating-Light puts into
Anstruther, on her return voyage to Leith. State of her
bottom. 404-405
The Light-keepers get their turns of liberty on shore. Letter
from Mr Forrest to the writer. Effects of the Sea on the
building. State of the Railways and Wharfs. Remarkable force
of the Sea in lifting a large piece of lead. Direction of the
Seas which have the greatest effect upon the Light-house.
Comfortable state of the building. Qualifications of the
Light-keepers. Mr Forrest leaves them in full possession of
the house. 406-410
Progress of Ulterior works. Lord Boyle and a party land at
the Rock. Boats suitable for landing there. Bruce’s “two-half
Boat.” Light-house stove takes fire. Sprays rise to the
height of the Light-room. Advantage of double windows. 411-413
1812. Light-house excites much interest. Sir William Rae
and Mr Duff, visit the Rock. The Beacon is taken down, and
removed from the Rock. Mode of securing timber against
the Oniscus insect. Light-house encounters another gale.
Remarkable shock of the Sea. Professor Robison’s opinion on
this subject. State of the Sea from which the Frontispiece is
delineated. It overruns the Rock at low-water. Mode in which
the Light is attended. 414-416
1813. Establishment of the Light-keepers at Arbroath
completed. Signals observed at the Rock. Thunder-rod. Method
of fixing it. 417-418
1814. A party of the Commissioners, with Sir Walter Scott,
visit the Light-house. 419
1815. Permanent Railways begun to be fitted up. Lord
President Hope visits the Rock. 419
1816. Pharos Tender built. Exterior of Light-house painted. 419
1818. Fuci disappear from the Rock. 420
1819. Permanent Railways completed. Improved Access to the
Light-house by a brazen ladder. Sprays rise 105 feet. A piece
of the highest part of the rock carried away by the violence
of the Sea. 421
1820. Improvements on the Light-house. Inner door of brass,
&c. 421
1821. A new Machine for taking up the Stores. Mr John Reid
retires from the Light-house service on half-pay. 421
1822. Light-house Works and Model completed. Design for Wolf
Rock. 422
1823. Severe Storm. Carrier-pigeons sent from the Rock.
Expence of the Work. Cubic contents of the Materials. 423
APPENDIX.
Page
No I. Additional Light-houses proposed on the Coast.
Light-Keepers’ Instructions. Rations of Provisions at the
Bell Rock. Monthly, and Ship-wreck Returns. 425-437
II. Poem on Sir Ralph the Rover, extracted from Mr Southey’s
Works. 438
III. Abstract Account of Light-house Duties. 439
IV. Reports relative to the Bell Rock Light-house, by Mr Rennie,
and the Writer. 440-468
V. Remarks relative to the Ground-Swells of the Sea. 469-470
VI. Schedules of Materials and Workmanship. 471-474
VII. Abstract Account of Expence. Average Price Provisions. 475-483
DESCRIPTION OF PLATES.
Plate I. Inchkeith Light-house. 487
II. Carr Rock Beacon. 487-489
III. Chart of Great Britain, with Sections of the Depths of the
Sea. 490
IV. Chart, shewing the position of the Bell Rock, in relation to
the opposite Shores. 490
V. Chart, shewing the Position of the Rock, in relation to the
Shipping. 491
VI. Plan of the Rock, shewing the Position of the Light-house. 492-499
VII. Original Designs for the Light-house. 499-501
VIII. Beacon House. 501-503
XI. Progress of the Works. 503-505
X. Implement and Apparatus connected with the Work. 505-508
XI. Sheer-crane, Praam-boat discharging, &c. 508-510
XII. Work-yard, Light-Keepers’ Houses at Arbroath. 511
XIII. Plan of the several Courses of the Masonry of the
Light-house. 511-515
XIV. Moveable Beam Crane. 515-517
XV. Foundation-Pit of the Light-house. 518
XVI. Elevation and Section of the Light-house. 518-519
XVII. Balance-Crane. 520-522
XVIII. General View of the Works. (See page 424.) 520-523
XIX. Door and Window Hinges, and Thunder-rod. 523-525
XX. Balcony and Light-Room. 526-529
XXI. Frontispiece explained. (See Title-page.) 529
XXII. Vignette on Second Title-page. (See page 62.) 530
XXIII. Design for a Light-house, suggested on visiting the Wolf
Rock, 530-533
INTRODUCTION.
ACCOUNT OF THE INSTITUTION OF THE BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS AND OF THE
PROGRESS MADE IN THE ERECTION OF THE NORTHERN LIGHT-HOUSES.
[Sidenote: Institution of Board of Northern Light-houses.]
Among the Nations of Europe, the SCOTS have always been allowed
to possess a considerable share of maritime enterprise. The local
situation and circumstances of Scotland necessarily directed the genius
of its people to the pursuit of nautical affairs. Their voyages to
the Hanseatic Towns, and to all the commercial countries of Europe,
were naturally longer than those of their more southern neighbours
of England, who were separated from the Continent only by a narrow
channel, which must have rendered their communication in the rude
periods of maritime discovery comparatively easy. The voyages of the
Scots even to the most contiguous parts of France and the Low Countries
were upwards of 140 leagues, along a coast intersected by innumerable
shoals; and, in the time of war, lay so open to the attacks of English
ships, that, in prosecuting them, the navigators were obliged to
abandon the usual track, and hold a course far from the shelter of the
land, exposed to all the dangers of the seas and the vicissitudes of
the weather.
In those early periods of our national history, when Britain was
divided into two separate and independent states, jealous of each
other, it became necessary for Scotland to form alliances with
foreign powers, when distant voyages, and much intercourse by sea was
indispensable. The frequent struggles with the marauding powers of
the North, obliged her to keep a more considerable navy than would
otherwise have been required for the protection of her commerce. The
connection likewise, with Denmark and Norway, through the marriage
of James III. with Margaret daughter of Christian I., in 1469, was
attended with the final annexation of the Orkney and Shetland Islands
to the Crown of Scotland;--circumstances which naturally extended her
foreign traffic, and completely united the dominion and the navigation
of the whole line of her coast.
It was reserved, however, for the influence and happy effects of the
Union of the Crowns and Kingdoms of England, Scotland and Ireland,
to draw forth the full energies of these countries. During the long
and glorious reign of his late Majesty, the name and character of the
United Kingdom have been highly advanced in arms, while her works of
industry, have not only flourished at home, but been extended to the
remotest parts of the world.
[Sidenote: Improvement of the Highlands.]
About the middle of the last or eighteenth century, the true value of
the Highlands of Scotland, and the best interests of these extensive
districts, may be said for the first time to have been understood.
Since that period, the object of the Government has been more
especially directed to the industry of the inhabitants, in giving every
encouragement and facility to the establishment of fisheries, towns
and harbours, along the shores of the north and west of Scotland; and
in opening interior communications, by the introduction of a system
of roads, the formation of an extensive inland navigation, and the
execution of other national works.
[Sidenote: Extension of Trade.]
Soon after the internal disturbances which marked the year 1745,
the trade on the coast of Scotland with sloops or vessels of small
tonnage, became considerable, in consequence of the bounties and
encouragement given to the extension of the British fisheries. About
this time also, the important manufacture of kelp or marine alkali,
from certain species of _fuci_ abundant on the northern and western
shores of Scotland, was introduced. Besides carrying the kelp to
market, a considerable number of small vessels was employed in
conveying salt and other articles required for the fisheries,--in the
Irish coasting trade,--in carrying slates from Argyleshire,--and in
transporting the rich iron-ore of Cumberland to the foundries on the
eastern shores of the kingdom. A trade was likewise carried on from
the Firth of Clyde, Liverpool, and the west of England in general, and
north of Ireland, with Norway, the Baltic, and the other States in the
north of Europe, in timber, iron, tar and other commodities; and in
exchange for these were received coal, salt, and the various exports of
Britain. These all became sources of commerce, which created a demand
for shipping, and promoted numerous voyages along the northern and
western coasts of Scotland, which now became more known and frequented.
But such was the length and peril of a voyage round the coast of
Scotland, by the Orkneys and Western Islands, without the aid of
light-houses, or even of correct charts, that the traffic along these
shores was still comparatively small.
[Sidenote: Inland Navigation.]
It was to remove these difficulties in some measure, that the formation
of a navigable canal between the Friths of Forth and Clyde, had long
been in agitation; and in the year 1767, the measure was brought
forward in the House of Commons. This canal, upon a voyage from the
Forth to the Clyde, is calculated to save no less than about 628 miles;
the distance, by the inland navigation being reduced to about 35 miles.
This work having been carried into execution, was opened from sea to
sea in 1790, forming an important step in the progressive intercourse
by water-carriage, a system which has since been so remarkably
extended to all parts of the united kingdom. But the usefulness of
the Forth and Clyde Canal was greatly marred by an unfortunate error
in its construction, its depth having been limited to 9 feet, and its
consequent incapacity for carrying _sea-borne_ ships of large burden;
so that the inconveniences of a circuitous voyage round Scotland still
remains for all the larger classes of shipping. In the formation of the
Caledonian Canal, the error of the Forth and Clyde navigation has been
avoided; this noble work being capable of receiving ships which draw 21
feet of water.
[Sidenote: Voyage of James V. in 1540.]
Notwithstanding these great improvements, it was still found necessary,
from the increasing state of trade, to give further facilities to the
navigation of the northern shores, by the Orkney and Western Islands.
The first step taken towards this object, was to procure accurate
surveys of the coast; for it is a curious fact, deserving of notice,
that the little journal and chart of the enterprising voyage of James
V., with many of the Scottish Nobles, from the Firth of Forth to the
Solway Firth , by the Orkneys, was long consulted as the only guide for
these seas. This voyage, so honourable to the naval annals of Scotland,
was undertaken by James with twelve ships in the year 1540, under the
direction of Alexander Lindsay, the most skilful pilot of his time.
[Sidenote: Original Charts.]
At the request of the Philosophical Society (now the Royal Society)
of Edinburgh, the Rev. Alex. Bryce of Kirknewton, about the year
1740, made a geometrical survey of the North-west coast of Scotland,
including the shores of Caithness and Sutherland. This paved the way
for the more extensive labours of Mr Murdoch Mackenzie, who, after
finishing his excellent charts of the Orkney Islands in the year 1750,
was employed by Government in a survey of the whole of the Western
Highlands and Islands, from Cape Wrath in Sutherlandshire to the Mull
of Kintyre. But long after the publication of these valuable charts,
the navigation of the sounds and sheltered seas of this district was
seldom ventured upon by the larger class of shipping employed in
foreign trade. The danger of falling in prematurely with the land
during the night, and the rapidity of the tides on these shores,
induced the mariner to keep along the extreme points and headlands
of the coast, holding his course even to the northward of Orkney and
Shetland, and to the westward of the Lewis Isles by St Kilda, exposed
to the heavy seas of the Atlantic Ocean. In this way, much hazard to
shipping, and loss of time, were incurred; and when overtaken with
gales of wind, such vessels were unable to avail themselves of the
numerous bays and anchorages of the Highlands;--considerations of much
importance to heavy laden ships, but especially to the smaller classes
of coasting and fishing vessels. It therefore appeared, that nothing
but the erection of Lighthouses, by which the mariner might identify
the land under night, would render this navigation at all a safe one.
[Sidenote: Proposition of a Light-house Board.]
Representations had often been made by shipmasters to their owners, of
the difficulties and dangers encountered in sailing along the coast of
Scotland. The establishment of a Light-house Board, and the erection of
Light-houses on our Northern Shores, became the topic of conversation
among mercantile men; and the subject was at length brought forward
at the meeting of the Convention of the Royal Boroughs of Scotland,
in the year 1784, by the late Mr DEMPSTER of Dunnichen, then Provost
of Forfar, and Member of Parliament, as worthy of the notice of the
Legislature.
[Sidenote: Passing of the Original Act, 1786.]
A bill was accordingly framed by the late Mr JOHN GRAY, writer to the
Signet, agent for the Royal Boroughs, which was brought into Parliament
by Mr Dempster, in the session of 1786. By this act, the 26th Geo. III.
chap. 101., a Board was appointed, for the erection of Light-houses
on the coast of Scotland; the preamble stating that “it would conduce
greatly to the security of navigation and the fisheries, if four
lighthouses were erected in the northern parts of Great Britain,” viz.
one on Kinnaird Head, in Aberdeenshire; one on the Orkney Islands; one
on the Harris Isles, and one at the Mull of Kintyre, in Argyleshire;
for which a duty of one penny _per_ register ton, for British, and
twopence _per_ ton upon foreign ships, should be paid by every ship or
decked vessel which should pass one or all of these lights.
[Sidenote: Commissioners _ex Officio_.]
The Commissioners appointed for putting this act in execution, are,
“His Majesty’s Advocate and Solicitor-General for Scotland; the Lord
Provost and First Bailie of Edinburgh; the Lord Provost and First
Bailie of Glasgow; the Provosts of Aberdeen, Inverness and Campbeltown;
the Sheriffs of the Counties of Edinburgh, Lanark, Renfrew, Bute,
Argyle, Inverness, Ross, Orkney, Caithness, and Aberdeen;” and to
these have since been added, the Sheriffs of the Counties of Ayr,
Fife, Forfar, and Wigton, agreeably to a clause which authorises the
Commissioners to add to their number.
[Sidenote: First Meeting of the Board.]
The first meeting of the Commissioners was held at Edinburgh on the 1st
day of August 1786; and consisted of the following members:
His Majesty’s Solicitor-General, Robert Dundas of Arniston.
The Lord Provost of Edinburgh, Sir James Hunter-Blair, Bart.
The First Bailie of Edinburgh, James Dickson, Esq.
The Sheriff of the County of Bute, Bannatyne Macleod, Esq.
The Sheriff of the County of Aberdeen, Alexander Elphinston, Esq.
The Sheriff of the County of Lanark, Sir William Honyman, Bart.
[Sidenote: Mode of raising Funds.]
The meeting having elected Sir James Hunter-Blair to be their Preses,
and appointed Mr Gray to be their Secretary, deliberated upon the
measures to be taken for giving effect to the statute. The first
object of the Board was to borrow the sum of L. 1200, which they were
authorised to raise. As all the Commissioners were acting _ex officio_,
it was suggested, that the most convenient method of arranging the
security for the funds to be borrowed, would be for the Magistrates
of the five boroughs mentioned in the act to become security, upon
assignment of the duties leviable for the lights,--a mode which was
accordingly adopted.
[Sidenote: Progress of Northern Light-houses.]
[Sidenote: Information about Light-houses.]
The preses informed the meeting, that he had corresponded with
persons the most likely to afford information relative to the best
construction of Light-houses, and had received answers from Liverpool
to a variety of queries regarding Light-houses, where the use of
coal-fires had been laid aside, and where oil lights, with reflectors,
had been introduced: That he had also got various plans and estimates
for Light-houses lighted with oil: That the Chamber of Commerce of
Edinburgh had furnished a plan of the Light-house on the Island of
May, in the Firth of Forth, and also a description of the light on the
Island of Cumbraes, in the Firth of Clyde, both of which were then
open coal-fires: In particular, that he had received from the late Mr
THOMAS SMITH of Edinburgh, plans and observations on the construction
of Light-houses with Lamps and Reflectors; which having been ultimately
approved of, Mr Smith was nominated Engineer to the Board. After
appointing a Committee for preparing matters for a general meeting,
they adjourned till the 23d of January 1787.
[Sidenote: Transactions of 1787.]
In pursuance of the act of Parliament, the Commissioners gave
directions that a correspondence should be opened with the several
proprietors of the land where the four original Light-houses were
specified to be erected. An answer was immediately received from Mr
Traill of Westness in Orkney, requesting the Board’s free acceptance
of the ground necessary for erecting the Light-house proposed for the
Northern Isles of Orkney, on any part of his property. Application
was made to the Duke of Argyle, as to the ground for the erection of
a Light-house on the Mull of Kintyre; to Lord Saltoun, relative to
the station of Kinnaird-Head, in Aberdeenshire; and to Mr Macleod of
Harris, as to the site of a Light-house on Island Glass. Measures were
also taken for obtaining fit persons to contract for erecting the
necessary buildings, and for conducting the operations at the different
stations.
_Kinnaird Head._
[Sidenote: Kinnaird-Head Light-house.]
The result of the correspondence with Lord Saltoun, was the purchase
of the old building of Kinnaird Castle from his Lordship, on which a
lantern or light-room was erected. After encountering considerable
difficulties in the outset of this establishment, the house was got
ready for the exhibition of the light by the month of December 1787,
and the following notice to mariners was officially given by the
Secretary in the London Gazette, and in the Edinburgh, Glasgow, and
Aberdeen newspapers.
“By order of the Commissioners appointed by Act of Parliament for
erecting four Light-houses in the northern parts of Great Britain, a
Light-house is now erected on Kinnaird Castle, at Kinnaird-Head, near
Fraserburgh, in the county of Aberdeen, Lat. 57° 42´, and Long. 2° 19´
West of London, Cairnbulg from the Light-house bearing, by compass,
S.E., distant 2 miles; and Trauphead W.NW., distant 9 miles. The
lantern is 120 feet above the level of the sea at high-water, and will
be seen from SE. to W.NW. and intermediate points of the compass on the
north of these points. The lantern will be lighted on the night of the
first day of December 1787, and every night thereafter, from the going
away of day-light in the evening till the return of day-light in the
morning.”
_Mull of Kintyre._
[Sidenote: Mull of Kintyre Light-house.]
At the Mull of Kintyre, one of the most inaccessible and difficult of
the Northern Light-house stations, the buildings were nearly prepared
for the light-room by the month of November; but the season being too
far advanced, and it appearing from Mr Smith’s report, that there
would be some risk in conveying the apparatus to the light-house at
this inclement season, the Commissioners resolved to delay the further
progress of the work at Kintyre till the following spring.
[Sidenote: ~1788.~]
The operations at the Mull of Kintyre were recommenced in the month of
April, but, owing chiefly to the inaccessible great difficulty that
was experienced in transporting the building materials connected with
the lantern or light-room, over the mountainous district of Kintyre,
it was the month of October before the light could be announced for
exhibition, when public advertisement was made of the lighting of the
house to the following effect.
“The Mull of Kintyre Light-house is situated immediately above the
rocks known to mariners by the name of The Merchants, in North Lat. 55°
17´, and Long. 5° 42´ west of London; the eastern entrance of the Sound
of Isla, bearing from the Light-house by compass, N. by E., distant
33 miles; the Mull of Kinho in the Island of Isla N. NW., distant 25
miles; and the northern extremity of Rathlin Island, on the coast of
Ireland, NW. ½ W. distant 13 miles; the Maiden Rocks S. by W. ½ W.,
distant 21 miles; and Copland Light-house S. by W. ½ W., distant 40
miles. The light-room is elevated 240 feet above the medium level of
the sea, and will be seen from N. NE. to S. by W., and all intermediate
points of the compass north of these points. The light will be
exhibited on the 1st day of December 1788, and every night thereafter,
from the going away of day-light in the evening till the return of
day-light in the morning.”
[Sidenote: Light-house duty too small.]
In the progress of the works of the Northern Light-houses, it soon
became evident, from the diminished state of the funds, that the
light-house duty of 1d. _per_ ton upon British vessels, and 2d. upon
foreign bottoms, was too small. By the original act, also, this duty
was only to be levied after the whole of the lights at the four
stations had been exhibited to mariners; but the Board having found
that it would be expedient to commence the collection of the duties so
soon as two were lighted, resolved on applying to Parliament for a new
act.
[Sidenote: Act of 1788.]
A bill was accordingly brought into the House of Commons by Sir Ilay
Campbell, M. P., when Lord Advocate for Scotland, and _ex officio_ one
of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, which passed in
the session of 1788, empowering the Commissioners to levy a duty of
1½d., or one halfpenny more _per_ ton upon British ships, and 3d.,
or one penny _per_ ton additional upon foreigners; and, in the mean
time, to commence collecting half duties till the whole of the four
light-houses mentioned in the former act were lighted, when the full
duties were to become exigible. Already about L. 4000 had been expended
on the light-houses of Kinnaird-Head and Kintyre. By this new act,
however, the Commissioners being empowered to borrow a further sum
of L. 3000, were not only enabled to forward the operations already
commenced, but, with this additional duty, it was expected that they
would soon be in a condition to answer the calls of the shipping
interest for additional erections on the coast.
_Island Glass._
[Sidenote: ~1789.~]
Considerable progress had been made in the course of the former season
with the erection of the Light-house at Island Glass in Harris,
which was finished and lighted on the 10th day of October 1789, the
following being its specification:--The Point of Island Glass, one of
the Harris Isles, is situated in North Lat. 57° 50´, and Long. 6° 33´
west of London. Ru-Ushiness bears from the light-house, per compass,
E. NE. ½ E., distant 8 miles; northern extremity of Shiant Isles
E., ½ S., southern extremity of ditto E. by S. ½ S., distant 11
miles; Skerne Rock SE., ½ E., distant 3 miles; Skergraidish Rock S.
SE. ¼ E., distant 9 miles; Point of Trotternish in Sky S. SE. ¼
E., distant 16 miles; Point of Vaternish S. SW. ¼ W., distant 15
miles; Dunvegan-Head SW. ½ S., distant 20 miles; Point of Roudil, at
the entrance of the Sound of Harris, W. by S., distant 14 miles. The
light-room is elevated 70 feet above the medium level of the sea, and
will be seen from E. NE. ½ E., from W. by S., and intermediate points
of the compass south of these points.
[Sidenote: North Ronaldsay Light-house.]
While the works of Island Glass were proceeding, a light-house was
also erected, and lighted 10th October 1789, on the island of North
Ronaldsay, in Orkney; but, as the light at this station was afterwards
removed to the neighbouring island of Sanday, it will fall more
properly to be noticed in the form of a Tower or Beacon, into which the
building was converted, after a Light-house had been established at the
Start Point of Sanday.
_Pladda._
[Sidenote: Application for Pladda Light-house.]
The erection of the four light-houses of Kinnaird Head, North
Ronaldsay, Island Glass, and the Mull of Kintyre, completed the
operations of the Northern Light-house Board, referred to in the
original act of 1786; and at the time of passing that act, it was
not foreseen that a greater number would be required on the coast of
Scotland for a series of years. But the benefit of the lights which had
already been erected, in affording much greater safety and facility
to the mariner in those dangerous seas, became so apparent, that they
were no sooner exhibited than applications from different quarters
for new erections followed. Among these, a memorial was presented to
the Commissioners by the Merchants’ House of Greenock, accompanied
by a letter from the Chamber of Commerce of Glasgow, setting forth
the advantages which the shipping of the Clyde would derive from the
erection of a light-house upon the small island of Pladda, situated
at the southern extremity of the island of Arran, and entrance of
the Firth of Clyde. This memorial concluded by requesting, that the
Commissioners would “take such measures as should to them seem most
proper, for procuring an act of Parliament, in order to carry the
erection of a light-house on the island of Pladda into execution as
soon as possible.”
[Sidenote: Act of 1789.]
[Sidenote: Collectors appointed.]
An act was accordingly obtained, in the session of 1789, not only for
the erection of Pladda Light-house, but for extending the powers of the
Commissioners to the erection of such other light-houses on the coast
of Scotland as to them should seem necessary, whenever the free produce
of the duties of 1½d. and 3d. _per_ ton respectively on British
and foreign ships should enable the Board to do so. In consequence of
the act of 1788, authorising the collection of half duties so soon as
two of the four light-houses mentioned in the original act should be
lighted, collectors at the different customhouses of all the ports of
Great Britain were appointed to receive the Northern Light-house duty,
and for their trouble they were to be paid at the rate of 10 _per
cent._ upon the sums they should respectively receive: But the business
being scarcely organized in 1789, and only half duties being exigible,
the whole money collected in that year amounted but to L. 290:14:6,
and even this small sum formed part of two years’ collection. From the
smallness of the duties, and the extent of the operations which the
Commissioners had now on hand, they were much pressed for the necessary
funds, and but for the liberality of their bankers Sir William Forbes
and Company, the operations of the Board must have been greatly
hampered. Indeed, Sir James Hunter Blair, one of the partners of that
house, when Lord Provost of Edinburgh, and _ex officio_ a member of the
Board, had been highly instrumental in forwarding the establishment of
the Northern Light-houses; and it was, perhaps, from such adventitious
circumstances, together with the economy of the measures originally
pursued, that the progress of the Light-house works proceeded, without
experiencing any interruption from want of funds.
[Sidenote: ~1790.~]
The light-house of Pladda was finished in the course of the year
1790, and lighted on the 1st day of October. As before noticed, it is
situated in the Firth of Clyde, on the small island of Pladda, near
the south-west point of the island of Arran, in North Lat. 55° 30´ and
Long. 5° 4´ west of London; the entrance of Campbeltown Loch bearing,
by compass, W.NW. ¼ N., distant 18 miles; Island of Sana W., distant
20 miles; Craig of Ailsa SW. by S., distant 15 miles; entrance to Loch
Ryan S.SW., distant 25 miles; and the Heads of Ayr E.SE., distant
16 miles. The light-room is elevated above the medium level of the
sea 70 feet; and the light is seen from NE. by E. to NW. by W. and
intermediate points of the compass south of these points.
[Sidenote: ~1791.~]
[Sidenote: Distinguishing light at Pladda.]
In order to distinguish Pladda Light-house from the light upon the
Promontory of Kintyre on the one hand, and that upon the island of
Cumbrae, further up the Firth of Clyde, and also from the Copeland
light on the Irish coast, it was found necessary, in the course of
the year 1791, to erect a small Light-room, immediately under the
principal light, that, by shewing two distinct lights at this station,
the one 20 feet higher than the other, it might be distinguishable
from those above alluded to. This small light-room being rather of a
temporary construction, the Board have it in view to erect one upon a
more efficient plan, when certain repairs which are in contemplation at
Pladda shall be made.
[Sidenote: Annual supply and inspection of the Lights.]
The Northern Light-houses being situated in parts of the country remote
and inaccessible, it became necessary to arrange some systematic and
proper plan for managing the ordinary business of the Board, which,
at this time, had only one stated meeting, held by act of Parliament
in the month of July annually. A special meeting was accordingly
convened by the Secretary, in the month of March 1791; at which there
were present, the Lord Advocate of Scotland; the Lord Provost of
Edinburgh; the Sheriff of Aberdeen; the Sheriff of Renfrew; and the
Sheriff of Orkney, Mr Charles Hope, now Lord President of the Court
of Session. This meeting having taken into consideration the proper
mode of supplying the light-houses, and of attending to the conduct of
the light-keepers, it was resolved, That the engineer should charter
a vessel annually, to carry a full complement of stores and other
necessaries for the use of the lights, and such artificers, implements
and materials as might, from time to time, be found necessary for
making repairs at the light-houses; and also, that the engineer
should annually visit each light-house, and report upon the state and
condition of the buildings, and upon the conduct of the respective
light-keepers in keeping the lights, and in the management of the
stores and appurtenances committed to their charge; with power to
dismiss them for neglect of duty.
[Sidenote: Light-keepers’ Salary.]
The light-keepers already engaged in the service, had been verbally
informed by the engineer, that they would be paid L. 30 of yearly
salary; and this meeting having before it a range of salaries paid
to light-keepers both in England and Scotland, varying from L. 20 to
upwards of L. 70, it was resolved, That in ordinary situations, the
salary of the light-keepers in the service of the Northern Light-houses
should be L. 30 _per annum_, with a piece of garden-ground and pasture
for a cow, and a sufficient quantity of fuel for the use of their
families.
[Sidenote: First voyage of the Engineer.]
[Sidenote: Light-house keeper dismissed the service.]
In consequence of this arrangement, a vessel of about 100 tons burden
was chartered and fitted out with stores and other necessaries for
the use of the Northern Light-houses; and in the course of the
summer of 1791, Mr Smith made his first annual visit by sea to the
light-houses--the journeys of the engineer having hitherto been
performed chiefly by land. On this voyage, every thing was reported to
be in good order at the several stations, excepting at the Light-house
of North Ronaldsay, which he found to be very improperly kept: it
appeared also that the light-keeper at this station had been embezzling
the stores committed to his charge. This person was formerly a
ship-master, who, finding it difficult to get employment in the line of
his profession, had been very improperly recommended to the attention
of the Light-house Board. Under circumstances of such misconduct, the
engineer immediately dismissed him from the service, and his conduct
was further taken cognizance of by the Sheriff of the county.
[Sidenote: Economical plan of the early Light-houses.]
The business of the Light-houses was now so arranged, that matters went
on in a very prosperous and successful manner. So well, indeed, had
the plans and buildings of their engineer been considered, and made
to meet the slender funds of the Board, that, with an expenditure of
little more than L. 10,000, five lights had been exhibited upon the
coast. Though these buildings were unavoidably very much circumscribed
in their accommodations, and even temporary in their construction, yet
the speedy exhibition of the lights was of great benefit to navigation,
while the improving state of the light-house duties enabled the
Commissioners to extend their influence along a greater range of coast;
and the different buildings have since been enlarged and completed in
a much more substantial manner, by applying the surplus funds to these
purposes.
[Sidenote: ~1793.~]
[Sidenote: Application for additional light-houses.]
In the year 1793, the prosperous state of funds induced and enabled the
Commissioners to attend to the applications of mariners for additional
light-houses on the coast. In particular a letter, to be afterwards
more fully noticed, was addressed to the Light-house Board by Admiral
Sir Alexander Cochrane, then commanding his Majesty’s ship Hind upon
the Leith station, setting forth the great benefit that would accrue
to shipping, from the erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock.
Representations were likewise made at this time by the merchants of
Liverpool, regarding the propriety of erecting a light-house upon the
Skerries, situated in the middle of the Pentland Firth , which separates
the Orkney Islands from the Mainland of Caithness. The object of a
light here, was to open this Firth as a passage to shipping in general,
and to enable the mariner to avoid a circuitous and dangerous voyage to
the northward of the Orkney Islands.
[Sidenote: State of the Light-house funds.]
At this period, however, the Commissioners could not venture to
undertake a work of such magnitude and difficulty, as the erection of
a light-house upon the Bell Rock. The amount of the light-house duties
at first was extremely limited; and though in a progressive state,
yet, for 1789, as before stated, they only amounted to L. 249:14:6.
For 1790, the sum was L. 1477:5:1; for 1791, it was L. 2736:9:2; for
1792, it rose to L. 3160:18:1. But in the year 1793, of which we are
now treating, the duties rather declined, and they only netted L.
2868, 3s. 5d. The Commissioners were nevertheless enabled to pay off
L. 4200, which, by the acts of 1786 and 1788, they had been empowered
to borrow, and likewise to discharge the advances made by Sir William
Forbes and Company; still leaving a balance of about L. 2000 of surplus
duties in the hands of their treasurer. The funds being, therefore,
still very limited, and only in a condition to enable the Board to
erect a light-house of the ordinary construction, the erection of the
light-house on the Pentland Skerries was resolved on; and the further
consideration of the Bell Rock light-house reserved, until the funds
should be in a more advanced state.
_Pentland Skerries._
[Sidenote: Regarding the site of the Pentland Firth Light-house.]
Some difference of opinion arising among the gentlemen and merchants
of Orkney, whether the light-house proposed for the Pentland Skerries
should not rather be erected upon the island of Copinsha, situate
about fifteen miles northward of the Portland Firth , the matter was
referred to the opinion of the Association of Ship-owners of Liverpool,
and to the Chambers of Commerce of Glasgow and Greenock, when these
public bodies unanimously and strongly recommended the erection of
the light-house on the Pentland Skerries, as the site best calculated
for a direction to the Pentland Firth ; which was accordingly fixed
upon by the Board. To mark this Light-house from the other lights upon
the coast, it was necessary to make it a Distinguishing-light, which
was effected by the erection of a higher and lower light-house tower,
respectively 80 and 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, built
at the distance of 60 feet asunder, and each having a light-room with
reflectors, so as to show two distinct stationary lights, for as yet
the Revolving-light had not been introduced upon this coast.
[Sidenote: ~1794.~]
[Sidenote: The author’s first voyage to the north.]
The works at the Pentland Skerries were begun early in the spring of
1794. The masonry was executed by builders of Orkney; and the materials
having been prepared, were partly landed on these small islands in the
course of the preceding summer. The Skerries consist of two uninhabited
islands, with some contiguous sunken rocks. They lie exposed to the
uninterrupted force of the waves of the North Sea, and to the rapid
tides and currents of the Pentland Firth , and present many convincing
proofs of the wasting state of the land, by the action of the sea. The
works here had been so laid out, that the towers should be in readiness
for the erection of the light-rooms by the month of August; and it
was expected that the lights would be ready for exhibition in the
month of October. The author, to whose superintendance the completing
of these light-houses was to be entrusted, as his first work for the
Board, sailed from Leith on this service on the 2d July 1794; and
after touching at Kinnaird Head Light-house, he landed at the Pentland
Skerries on the 11th of that month, and found the masonry of the two
light-house towers in such a state of forwardness, as to be then nearly
ready for the light-rooms. In the month of September, these works were
completed, and the lights were exhibited on the 1st day of October
1794.
These lights are from oil, with reflectors, and may be described as
erected on the largest of the Pentland Skerries, in Lat. 58° 43´ and
Long. 3° 3´ west of London; the northmost or highest light-room being
elevated 100 feet, and the lower light-room 80 feet above the medium
level of the sea. The two light-rooms, relatively to each other, bear
S. SW. and N. NE., distant 60 feet. The bearings, as taken from the
highest light-room, by compass, are the western extremity of the Little
Pentland Skerry S. by W., distant 1¼ mile; extremity of the foul
ground off that Skerry SE., distant 1½ mile; Duncan’s Bay Head in
Caithness; W. SW. distant 4½ miles; Noss Head SW. by W., distant 14
miles; northmost point of the Island of Stroma NW. by W., distant 6½
miles; south-western extremity of the Loather Rock on the Orkney shore
N. by W., distant 3½ miles; Island of Copinsha NE. by E. ¼ E.,
distant 17 miles.
[Sidenote: Loss of the sloop Elizabeth.]
The author, having remained to complete the works at the Pentland
Skerries, and to see the house lighted, sailed from Orkney on the 9th
of October, in the sloop Elizabeth of Stromness. On the following day,
the vessel got within three miles of Kinnaird Head Light-house, in
Aberdeenshire; but the wind having suddenly shifted to the south-east,
Mr Sinclair, the master, with much attention and kindness, landed
the author, who continued his journey to Edinburgh by land. A very
different fate, however, awaited his shipmates; for the Elizabeth
having put back to Cromarty Roads, was afterwards driven to Orkney, and
ultimately lost, when all on board perished.
[Sidenote: Mr Balfour and Mr Riddoch presented with pieces of Plate.]
In the affairs connected with the erection of light-houses in Orkney,
Mr Balfour of Elwick, and Mr Riddoch, collector of the customs at
Kirkwall, having respectively taken much friendly interest and trouble
in the advancement of the Light-house works in the Orkney islands, the
Commissioners of the Light-houses presented a small piece of plate to
each of these gentlemen, with a suitable inscription, in testimony of
the services they had thus rendered to the public.
[Sidenote: Act for Incorporating the Commissioners.]
Some inconveniency having been experienced in conducting the business
of the Light-house Board, in consequence of its not being an
incorporated body, and not having a common seal, particularly in the
holding of stock and other property, in laying out and investing the
surplus funds arising from the light-house duties, application was
made to Parliament, and an act passed in 1798, 38th Geo. III. c. 57.
erecting the Commissioners into a Board or Body-politic, by the name of
“The Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses;” and under that title
to have perpetual succession, and hold a common seal.
[Sidenote: Additional Works at the first erected Light-houses.]
After the completion of these two light-houses on the Pentland
Skerries in 1794, a period of ten years elapsed before the erection of
any additional light-house was undertaken on the coast of Scotland.
This delay was rendered necessary, chiefly on account of the
necessity of extending the accommodation of the light-keepers at the
different stations,--in making landing places and roads,--enclosing
grounds,--and, in short, putting the whole establishment of the
light-houses into a more complete and finished state.
[Sidenote: Light-House proposed as a direction for Cromarty Firth .]
In the mean time, several propositions for new light-houses were
brought under the notice of the Commissioners. In the year 1797, for
example, the late Mr Dempster of Dunnichen proposed the erection of
a light-house as a direction for the entrance of Cromarty Firth , one
of the principal inlets for shipping on the eastern coast of Great
Britain. Mr Dempster also suggested, in connection with this, that a
Beacon should be erected, and a floating buoy moored, to point out the
dangerous channel of Dornoch Firth , which is too often fatally mistaken
for the entrance to Cromarty Firth . The proposition of a beacon and
buoy for Dornoch, was considered by the Commissioners as not strictly
in the high seas, and therefore not properly belonging to the concerns
of the Board, and, together with the light-house, were delayed for the
present, that attention might be paid to more urgent demands on other
parts of the coast.
[Sidenote: Proposition for altering the site of Kinnaird Head
Light-House.]
Notwithstanding the benefit derived from the erection of Kinnaird
Head light-house, shipwrecks were still occurring on a dangerous
reef of rocks called Rattray Brigs, situate about 12 miles southward
of Kinnaird Head, and 6 miles north of Peterhead. In the year 1798,
petitions were presented to the Commissioners from certain merchants
and traders, setting forth, that the light-house upon Kinnaird Head
would be much more beneficial to shipping, were it removed to Rattray
Head. This matter was remitted to the author to report upon, who
accordingly made a survey of this part of the coast. After maturely
considering the subject, it was deemed advisable to decline the removal
of the light-house from Kinnaird Head, which was found to be extremely
useful for directing ships into the Moray and Cromarty Friths, and
also to vessels making the land from the northward. Although it might
not, perhaps, be so useful to coasters bound from the south, yet the
Commissioners found, that it would be better, under all circumstances,
to preserve Kinnaird Head as a light-house station, and, at some future
period, to erect an additional light upon this important part of the
coast, at or near Peterhead, in a position calculated to be useful
as a guide for the sunken reef of Rattray Brigs, and also for the
south-eastern shores of Aberdeenshire.
_Start Point Beacon._
[Sidenote: ~1801.~]
[Sidenote: Numerous Wrecks on the Island of Sanday.]
Among the several applications brought before the Board for additional
light-houses, something still appeared to be necessary for averting
the misfortunes which were annually happening on the low shores of the
Northern Isles of Orkney. It had now been found, by the experience of
about twelve years, that the light-house of North Ronaldsay was not
calculated to prevent the numerous wrecks on the islands of Sanday and
Stronsay. In the year 1796, when the author was on his annual visit to
the Northern Light-houses, he was struck at seeing the wreck of three
homeward-bound ships upon the island of Sanday, though situate only
about eight miles southward of the light-house of North Ronaldsay.
Again, in 1797, he found one wrecked ship on Sanday; but in 1798 he saw
the remains of no fewer than five vessels upon that fatal island; and,
in the month of December 1799, two of the numerous vessels which were
driven from Yarmouth Roads in a dreadful gale of wind at south-east,
were also wrecked there. The author having laid this continued and
alarming state of things before the Light-house Board, in his annual
report of 1801, it was resolved, that a beacon or tower of masonry
should be erected upon the Start Point or eastern extremity of the
low shores of the island of Sanday; the building to be constructed in
such a manner that it might, if found necessary, be converted into a
light-house.
[Sidenote: ~1802.~]
[Sidenote: Proofs of a severe winter in Orkney.]
In the year 1802, the author sailed on his annual voyage to the
Northern Light-houses so early as the 14th of April, in the Pharos of
Leith, carrying with him a foreman and sixteen artificers, to commence
the works of the Start Point Tower. After rather a boisterous passage,
the vessel reached Orkney in six days, and, at this advanced period
of the season, these Islands were found covered to the depth of six
inches with snow. This, at any time, is rather uncommon in Orkney; but
such had been the severity of the season in the northern regions, that
a flock of wild swans which, in severe winters, visit this country,
were still seen in considerable numbers upon the fresh-water lakes
of Sanday. These large birds are supposed to migrate from Iceland,
but are rarely seen here later than the month of March, so that their
appearance in the latter end of the month of April, was considered by
the Orcadians as a mark of a very severe and long-continued winter in
the higher latitudes.
[Sidenote: Quarries at Sanday and Eda.]
[Sidenote: Encroachments of the Sea upon the Land.]
[Sidenote: Of Ruble Building.]
[Sidenote: Houses built with Double walls.]
It having been ascertained that there was no workable sandstone on
the island of Sanday, where the Beacon was to be erected, permission
was granted by Mr Laing, the proprietor of the contiguous island of
Eda, to open a quarry at Calf Sound, where sandstone of a pretty
good quality was obtained. With a view to render this building
substantially water-tight, it had been originally intended to make it
wholly of hewn stone, built in regular courses, technically called
_ashlar_ or _aisler-work_, a term derived from the aisle of a church,
where this sort of masonry predominates; but the quarry of Eda being
about fourteen miles distant from the work, the stones had to be
brought by sea through rapid tides; and there being but indifferent
creeks or havens both at the quarry and at the Start Point, it was
found necessary to make only the principal stones of hewn-work,
while the body of the work was executed in ruble-building, for which
excellent materials were got at the Start Point, the property of the
Right Honourable Lord Dundas, consisting of _sandstone-slate_, of a
greyish-smoke colour, intermixed with shining particles of mica. The
rock here is disposed in strata, from 1 to 8 inches in thickness, and
could easily be raised in pieces containing from 15 to 20 square feet.
Indeed, the encroachments of the sea had heaped up immense quantities
of these schistose stones at high-water mark, all round the Start
Point, the shores of which appeared like the ruins of the wall of
some large city. These stones, however, were more applicable for the
purposes of dike-building, or interior walls, than for external work;
for, after having been exposed on the beach for ages to the alternate
changes of moisture and dryness, heat and cold, they were found to
have many small fissures, or were split horizontally; and although the
pieces still seemed to adhere closely, yet they were sufficiently open
to admit moisture into the heart of the walls, which, in these stormy
and exposed situations, is forced through the building: hence it is,
that houses built with _drift_-stones of this description, are said by
the cottagers of these islands to keep out moisture much better when
built with _puddle_ or clay, than with the best lime-mortar, which,
under certain circumstances, is known to attract moisture, while the
clay resists it. But after all the care that can be taken in building
with these slaty stones, even when taken fresh from the quarry, they
still have a tendency to split into lamellæ, after they are built in
the walls. Experienced builders, therefore, generally lay the outward
stones of such walls with a slight inclination downwards, or _dip_,
as the workmen term it, the more readily to prevent the admission of
wetness. I have been thus particular, because it is hardly possible
to prevent walls built of these materials from drawing moisture,
until they have been _rough cast_,--an operation which is so very
troublesome, from requiring to be occasionally renewed, that I have
found it necessary, in these exposed situations, to build the outward
walls double, as the only effectual method of obtaining a comfortable
house free of dampness.
[Sidenote: Laying the foundation stone of Beacon.]
The weather continued to be so extremely boisterous here, that it was
the middle of the month of May before a sufficient stock of materials
was laid down for commencing the building at the Start Point. A wish
having been expressed by the workmen, to have the foundation-stone
of the Beacon laid with masonic ceremony; and considering the dreary
prospect which the artificers had before them, the author was the
more willing to embrace so fair an opportunity of affording them the
enjoyment of a little convivial happiness. The influx of so many
strangers to the island of Sanday for this work, and the novelty of
the intended ceremony, made the news soon find its way to every house.
Preparations were accordingly made;--the year of our Lord 1802, was
cut upon the foundation-stone, in which a hole was perforated for
depositing a glass phial, containing a small parchment scroll, setting
forth the intention of the building; the official constitution of the
Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; and the name of their
Engineer. It also contained several of the current coins of George
III. in gold, silver, and copper. The day fixed for the ceremony was
the 15th of May. The weather was dry and tolerably agreeable, though
cold, with snow upon the ground; the thermometer by Fahrenheit’s
scale indicating 35° in the shade at noon. A number of the principal
inhabitants, and a crowd of cottagers assembled. Things being
arranged for the ceremony, the author, assisted by Mr James Cleghorn,
foreman for the works, applied the square and plummet-level to the
foundation-stone, in compliance with the ancient custom of the craft.
The phial was then deposited in the cavity prepared for it in the
stone, and carefully covered up with sand, when the masonic ceremony
concluded in the usual manner. The Reverend Walter Traill, minister
of the parish, who obligingly attended on this occasion, now stood
forward, and, after a most impressive prayer, imploring the blessing
of heaven upon the intended purposes of the building, delivered an
address, which, from the singularity of the subject, and the excellency
of the matter, shall here be inserted.
[Sidenote: Rev. Walter Trail’s Address.]
“This moment is auspicious. The foundation-stone is laid of a building
of incalculable value;--a work of use, not of luxury. Pyramids were
erected by the pride of kings, to perpetuate the memory of men, whose
ambition enslaved and desolated the world. But it is the benevolent
intention of our Government, on this spot to erect a tower, not to
exhaust, but to increase the wealth, and protect the commerce of
this happy kingdom.--To the goodness of GOD, in the first place, we
are indebted for a degree of prosperity unknown to other nations. In
the next place, we owe our happiness to our insular situation, and
attention to maritime affairs. Faction and civil war have, at this
period, laid waste the fairest countries of Europe; while peace has
flourished within our walls. Agriculture, commerce, and their kindred
arts, have prospered in our land. British oak hath triumphed; victory
hath been attached to the British flag; and British fleets have ridden
triumphant on the wings of the wind.--Consider the great national
objects for which this building will be erected. To protect commerce,
and to guard the lives of those intrepid men who for us cheerfully
brave the fury of the waves, and the rage of battle. The mariner, when
he returns to the embraces of his wife and children, after ascribing
praise to the Great Giver of safety, shall bless the friendly light
which guided him over the deep, and recommend to the protection of
heaven, those who urged, who planned, and who executed the work.--This
day shall be remembered with gratitude. It shall be recorded, that
at the beginning of a new century, the pious care of Government was
extended to this remote island. Those rocks, so fatal to the most
brave and honourable part of the community, shall lose their terror,
and safety and life shall spring from danger and death.--Even you, my
friends, who are employed in the execution of this work, are objects
of regard and gratitude. You have, for a season, left the society of
your families and friends, to perform a work of high interest to your
country and to mankind. I am confident, that you will act, in all
respects, so as to deserve and obtain the esteem of the people who
now surround you. I hope that they will discharge to you every duty
of Christian hospitality, and that you will have no occasion to feel
that you are strangers in a strange land.--It becomes us to remember,
that all the affairs of men are dependent on Providence. We may exert
talents and industry, but GOD only can bless our exertions with
success. Let our trust be in him. Let us humbly hope that he will bless
this day and this undertaking. Through his aid, may there arise from
this spot, a tower of safety and protection to the mariner of every
tongue and nation.”
The whole of this scene was very impressive; and the plain, decent, and
respectable appearance of the people collected on the occasion, was
none of the least interesting parts of it.
[Sidenote: Beacon Completed.]
Having now got the works at the Start Point of Sanday fairly commenced,
and some progress made in opening the quarries, the author left
the Orkney Islands, and continued his voyage westward to the other
Light-houses on the coast. Every thing having succeeded well at the
Start Point, the Beacon was finished in the month of September. It
was terminated at the height of 100 feet above the medium level of
the sea, with a circular ball of masonry measuring fifteen feet in
circumference.--But this tower having been afterwards converted into
a light-house, it seems to be unnecessary here to enter into a more
particular specification of the building.
_Inchkeith Light-house._
[Sidenote: ~1803.~]
Much inconveniency had been experienced, and many fatal accidents had
occurred, in the Firth of Forth, from the want of a light to direct
ships past the island of Inchkeith into the Roads of Leith. In the
course of the winter of 1801, from this cause, a very severe misfortune
happened at the rocks lying off Kinghornness, on the Fifeshire coast,
by the loss of the smack Aberdeen, Freeman, master, one of the traders
bound from Aberdeen to London. This vessel had been put up the Firth in
a storm, loaded with a general cargo, which was valued at upwards of L.
10,000, and had on board 13 passengers, besides the ship’s crew, all
of whom perished, excepting the master, the mate, and a lady. So very
distressing an accident, with other instances of a similar nature,
produced a strong sensation with the public. It was also found, that
vessels which, by the direction of the light of May, had entered the
Firth of Forth in the course of a long winter night, could not yet
venture to hold on their course, up the Firth , owing to the difficulty
of passing the island of Inchkeith, and the foul and rocky ground in
its neighbourhood. The mariner was thus obliged to _lie off and on_
in this narrow sea, without being able to run for the anchorage of
Leith Roads till day-light: but, before morning, the wind perhaps
had shifted; and, instead of being in a safe anchorage, he was too
often driven to sea. The author has, indeed, known of a ship in this
situation, which drifted before the wind even to the coast of Norway.
[Sidenote: Inchkeith Light-house resolved on.]
It was from considerations of this kind that an application was brought
forward by the Corporation of the Trinity House of Leith, for the
erection of a light-house upon Inchkeith; and the Commissioners of the
Northern Light-houses, also viewing Leith Roads as a naval station and
rendezvous for his Majesty’s ships on the North Sea station, resolved
upon the propriety and expediency of this measure in the year 1802.
Various difficulties occurred about procuring the ground necessary for
this establishment, not indeed with the noble proprietor of the island,
the Duke of Buccleuch, who forthwith ordered every facility to be given
to the work; but time was lost in arranging matters with his Grace’s
agent. It was not, therefore, till the summer of the year 1803, that
the building on Inchkeith commenced, and the masonry of the light-house
was not ready for the light-room till the following year, when the
light was exhibited on the 1st day of September 1804. Its position is
described as follows:
[Sidenote: Description of Inchkeith Light-house.]
“The Light-house erected on the island of Inchkeith, situate in the
Firth of Forth and county of Mid-Lothian, in North Lat. 56° 2´, and
Long. 3° 8´. west of London, is elevated 220 feet above the medium
level of the sea, of which height the building forms 45 feet. The light
is from oil with reflectors, and will be seen from every point of
the compass as a _Stationary light_” (since altered to a _Revolving
light_, as shall be afterwards noticed). “From the light-house Ely-ness
bears, by compass, E. NE., distant 16 miles; Light of May E. ½ N.,
distant 23 miles; Fidra Island E. by S., distant 14 miles; Craig
Waugh Rock SE. by S. ½ S., distant 4¾ miles; Leith-Harbour Light
SW. ¼ S., distant 3½ miles; Gunnet Rock W., distant 1½ mile;
Ox-Scares W. by N. ½ N., distant 4½ miles; Inchcolm W. NW. ¼ N.,
distant 6½ miles; Pettycur Light N. NW. ¼ N., distant 2½ miles;
Kinghorn-ness N. NW. ¾ N. distant 2¼ miles.”
[Sidenote: Originally proposed to be a Leading light.]
This light-house was originally proposed to have been made a double
or _leading light_, to guide ships up the Firth , and especially past
the dangerous rock called the Ox-Scares, to the anchorage above
Queensferry; but it was thought advisable to erect a light, in the
first instance, upon the top of the island, and to defer the erection
of a lower or western light till the effect of a single light should
be tried. Such, however, appears to have been the benefit of the light
on the top of the island, together with a cast-iron Beacon, which, at
this time, was erected on the Ox-Scares, that the want of a second
light-house on Inchkeith does not seem to have been much felt.
[Sidenote: Light duty for Inchkeith modified.]
By the existing acts of Parliament, the light-house Board is entitled
to take the full duties of three halfpence _per_ ton, from the local
trade of the Firth of Forth, for the light of Inchkeith, instead of
which, only one halfpenny _per_ ton is exacted from such vessels as
are not liable to the duty, in consequence of passing some other of
the Northern Light-houses. The great utility of this light-house, and
the equitable and liberal manner in which these duties are exacted,
gave much satisfaction to the maritime and commercial interests of the
country.
[Sidenote: Accommodation of Light-keepers’ houses extended.]
It may here be proper to observe, that the erection of Inchkeith
Light-house, forms a new era in the works of the Commissioners of
the Northern Light-houses; which, as formerly observed, had been
necessarily executed on the smallest, plainest and most simple plan
that could be devised, and with such materials as could be easily
transported, and most speedily erected, so as to meet the urgent calls
of shipping, and answer the very limited state of the funds. But
from the thriving condition of the trade of the country, the yearly
duties which, in 1790, amounted only to L. 1477:5:1; in the year 1802
encreased to L. 4386:7:5. It was, therefore, considered advisable, from
its being ultimately more economical, to erect and finish the several
works of the light-house Board in the most substantial manner, and more
like the buildings of a permanent National Establishment.
[Sidenote: Houses covered with leaden roofs.]
[Sidenote: Disadvantage of slated roofs.]
From the vicinity of Inchkeith to sandstone quarries, the buildings
there were executed of aislar masonry. A platform roof covered
with lead, and defended by a parapet wall, was adopted for the
light-keepers’ house, instead of a slated roof, with garrets of the
common construction; a slated roof being not only more liable to be
injured by high winds, but when the attic apartments of such houses are
occupied, the premises became more exposed to accident from fire. The
slated roof, with iron nails, is also subject to decay, owing to the
saline particles with which the air is impregnated, and the sprays of
the sea, which, even in such situations as Inchkeith, are often blown
over the island, though the site of the light-house is about 175 feet
in height. Indeed, at all the original light-house stations in the
north, the nails were soon rusted, and the slates getting loose, were
often blown off in great numbers, so that in the very depth of Winter,
the light-keepers have been obliged to make such a requisition as the
following: “A slater is much wanted here, to repair the roof of the
house, as upwards of 50 slates have been blown away during the late
gales.” Instead, also, of a dwelling-house consisting of only two small
apartments as formerly, the house at Inchkeith has four rooms, with
other conveniencies, laid out for the accommodation of the families of
a principal light-keeper and an assistant, who are now appointed to the
charge of each of the Northern Light-houses.
[Sidenote: Construction of Light rooms improved.]
[Sidenote: Rendered Fire-proof.]
An entire change also took place at this period upon the construction
of the Light-rooms and the reflecting apparatus, as well as in the
extension and enlargement of the accommodation for the light-keepers.
The early light-rooms were constructed wholly of timber, excepting the
window-sash frames, which were made of cast-iron. The outside of the
wooden cupola, covered with sheet copper, and the ceiling and floor
with fire-proof plates of tinned iron. But it soon appeared that this
construction was liable to great objections, particularly to the risk
of accidental fire. The timber roof being also unavoidably shut up
from the air, and exposed to a degree of heat sufficient to dry it
to the state of tinder, its strength and fibrous qualities were soon
lost, and the buildings in danger of being destroyed by the storms of
winter. At Inchkeith, on the contrary, the roof is framed of iron, and
covered with copper, and the floor is laid with flag-stones; while the
window-frames, and all the materials exposed to the immediate action of
the weather, are made of copper; the windows are glazed with plates of
polished glass, measuring 29 inches by 18 inches, and ¼ of an inch
in thickness, instead of sash panes of crown-glass, measuring only
12 inches by 8 inches, by which so many astragals were unavoidably
introduced into the windows, that much of the light was obstructed and
lost.
[Sidenote: Reflectors of Silvered Mirror-glass.]
[Sidenote: Reflectors of Copper, plated with Silver.]
[Sidenote: The use of Argand lamps and Spermaceti Oil introduced.]
The reflectors of the first of the Northern Light-houses were formed
to the parabolic curve, upon principles susceptible of considerable
accuracy; their powers were, however, small from their reflecting
surfaces being composed of facets of silvered mirror-glass, and one
point only of each facet coinciding with the curve of the parabola.
As many of the rays are thus lost or weakened by transmission through
the glass of the reflector, the light is much less brilliant than when
reflected from a metallic speculum of a uniform parabolic figure,
of a more white and dense body, such as silver. Another objection
to mirror-glass reflectors, is the great number of interstices or
subdivisions between the pieces of glass, which unavoidably induces
a want of cleanliness and uniformity in the reflecting surface as a
whole. The improvement upon this part of the reflecting apparatus,
as more recently fitted up, consists in employing sheets of copper,
plated or coated with silver, which, with much labour and great nicety
of workmanship, are formed as nearly as may be into the parabolic
curve,--a subject to which we shall again recur, in treating of the
reflectors for the Bell Rock Light-house. Instead, also, of whale
oil, and the use of the Common lamp, spermaceti oil, and the Argand
lamp, were introduced at Inchkeith. Upon these principles, all the new
erections of the Northern Light-houses are constructed; and such of the
original light-houses, as require considerable repairs, are directed by
the Board to be altered to the improved construction. But the erection
of such a light-house as that of Inchkeith, in place of requiring an
expenditure of only about L. 1000 like the original establishments,
cost upwards of L. 5000.
[Sidenote: Inscription on Inchkeith Light-house.]
The light-house of Inchkeith having been erected before the late
Mr Smith, the author’s predecessor, had retired from the situation
of Engineer for the Northern Light-houses, and being the first of
the light-houses erected upon the coast of Scotland on the recently
improved principles, it is thought proper to give a plan and
elevation of the house and offices, in one of the plates of this
work, as a specimen of what is considered a very complete light-house
establishment. It may also be noticed here, that the elevation of the
light-house tower bears a tablet with the following inscription:--“For
the direction of Mariners, and for the benefit of Commerce, this
Light-house was erected by order of the Commissioners of the Northern
Light-houses. It was founded on the 18th day of May, in the year 1803,
and lighted on the 1st of September 1804. THOMAS SMITH, _Engineer_.”
[Sidenote: Pilots and Shipwrecked Seamen receive shelter.]
As part of the establishment at Inchkeith, a guard-room is provided
for pilots. In the event also of shipwreck upon the coast, in the
neighbourhood of any of the light-house stations, from the more
extended state of the buildings, the unfortunate seamen are not only
directed to be lodged in the best manner that the circumstances of
the case will admit, but, in necessitous cases, ship-wrecked mariners
have even been allowed a sum of money by the Light-house Board, to
clothe and carry them to their respective homes. In this way, it has
not unfrequently fallen to the lot of the keepers of the Northern
Light-houses, to save the lives of perishing seamen, to succour many
poor fishermen and pilots, as well as the half starved and unlucky
individuals of _water parties_, when driven by stress of weather to
these lone places of abode, for safety and shelter. In these varied
forms, it will not be too much to suppose, that the practice of
protecting the navigator in distress, which is said to have formed a
chief part of the design of the _Fire Towers_ and _Nautical Colleges_
of the ancients, is thus in some measure restored.
_Start Point Light-house._
[Sidenote: ~1806.~]
[Sidenote: Shipwrecks still take place on Sanday.]
[Sidenote: Striking examples of this.]
Notwithstanding the precautions which had been taken to prevent the
frequent occurrence of shipwreck upon the island of Sanday, by the
erection of a Beacon or Tower of masonry on the Start Point, the
loss of ships did not appear to be diminished. It had even become
proverbial with some of the inhabitants to observe, “that if wrecks
were to happen, they might as well be sent to the poor island of
Sanday as any where else.” On this and the neighbouring islands, the
inhabitants have certainly had their share of wrecked goods; for here
the eye is presented with these melancholy remains in almost every
form. For example, although quarries are to be met with generally in
these islands, and the stones are very suitable for building dikes,
yet instances occur of the land being inclosed, even to a considerable
extent, with ship timbers. The author has actually seen a park paled
round, chiefly with cedar wood and mahogany from the wreck of a
Honduras built ship; and in one island, after the wreck of a ship
laden with wine, the inhabitants have been known to take claret to
their barley meal porridge, instead of their usual beverage. On
complaining to one of the pilots of the badness of his boat’s sails,
he replied to the author with some degree of pleasantry, “Had it been
His (God’s) will that you came na here wi’ these lights, we might
a’ had better sails to our boats and more o’ other things.” It may
further be noticed, that when some of Lord Dundas’s farms are to be
let in these islands, a competition takes place for the lease, and
it is _bona fide_ understood, that a much higher rent is paid than
the lands would otherwise give, were it not for the chance of making
considerably by the agency and advantages attending shipwrecks on the
shores of the respective farms. The author was so struck with some of
these circumstances, that he collected, and shall here insert a list
of shipwrecks for the twelve years immediately following the erection
of North Ronaldsay light-house, in procuring which he was obligingly
assisted by the Rev. William Grant, minister of Cross-kirk parish,
including the island of North Ronaldsay, and part of Sanday.
[Sidenote: List of Shipwrecks for Twelve Years.]
LIST OF WRECKS on the contiguous islands of North Ronaldsay, Sanday
and Stronsay, during a period of Twelve Years, immediately after the
erection of North Ronaldsay Light-house, in 1789.
Key:
A: Year.
B: Voyage.
C: Cargo.
D: Tonnage.
E: Supposed Value of Ship and Cargo.
+-----+-------------------------+------------------+-----+------------+
| A | B | C | D | E |
+-----+-------------------------+------------------+-----+------------+
|1789.|Norway to America, |Spirits, &c. | 150 | L. 3500 0 0|
|1790.|Hamburgh to do. |Cordage, &c. | 100 | 2800 0 0|
|1792.|Norway to Wales, |Wood and Iron, | 90 | 1100 0 0|
|---- |Sweden to Liverpool, |Grain, | 120 | 3100 0 0|
|---- | Do. to Greenock, |Timber, | 400 | 3400 0 0|
|1793.|Norway to Spain, |Fish and Oil, | 100 | 2000 0 0|
|---- |Copenhagen to Santa Cruz,|Silks, &c. | 250 | 35,000 0 0|
|1794.|Copenhagen to Surinam, |Muslins, &c. | 250 | 20,000 0 0|
|---- | Do. to Dundee, |Flax, &c. | 90 | 2000 0 0|
|1795.| Do. to America, |Cloth, &c. | 300 | 12,200 0 0|
|1796.| Do. to Liverpool, |Timber, | 250 | 2500 0 0|
|---- | Do. to Whitehaven,|Timber, | 150 | 1300 0 0|
|---- |Liverpool to Ostend, |Wine and Rum, | 400 | 15,300 0 0|
|1797.|Baltic to Liverpool, |Grain, | 120 | 3000 0 0|
|1798.|Sweden to Hull, |Timber and Iron, | 200 | 2500 0 0|
|---- |Norway to Liverpool. |Timber, | 200 | 1800 0 0|
|---- | Do. to America, |Cloth, &c. | 200 | 5000 0 0|
|---- |Altona to Do. |Spirits and Cloth,| 450 | 18,000 0 0|
|---- |London to Gibraltar, |Stores, | 300 | 5000 0 0|
|1799.| Do. to Dublin, |Staves, | 150 | 2200 0 0|
|1800.|Hamburgh to America, |Cambric and Linen,| 200 | 45,000 0 0|
|---- |Dantzic to Liverpool, |Timber, | 900 | 10,000 0 0|
| ----------|
|22 vessels wrecked in 12 years, supposed value L. 196,400 0 0|
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
[Sidenote: Start Point Tower proposed to be converted into a
Light-house.]
[Sidenote: North Ronaldsay Light-house to be converted into a Beacon.]
This list of shipwrecks strongly points out the dangerous nature of
the navigation of the seas and friths of the northern islands of
Orkney. From a consideration of these numerous accidents, being almost
at the rate of two wrecks in the year, and seeing the mangled remains
of some fine ships which still appeared upon the island of Sanday, the
author was induced to bring this matter again under the notice of the
Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, in his report to the Board
in the year 1805, when he proposed that the Start Point Beacon should
be converted into a light-house, and that North Ronaldsay light should
be discontinued, and its tower converted into a beacon, as wrecks were
found to happen comparatively seldom upon that island, while hardly a
year passed without instances of this kind on the island of Sanday;
for, owing to the projecting points of this strangely formed island,
the lowness and whiteness of its eastern shores, and the wonderful
manner in which the scanty patches of land are intersected with lakes
and pools of water, it becomes even in day-light a deception, and has
often been fatally mistaken for an open sea. The removal of the light
from North Ronaldsay to Sanday, was also calculated to be equally, if
not more, useful to the navigation of North Ronaldsay Firth ; the Start
Point being only four miles from the sunken rock called the Reef-dyke,
as will be seen from the general chart of the coast which accompanies
this work. It therefore appeared that if only a single light were
allowed for the protection of this coast, it would be much better upon
Sanday than on North Ronaldsay.
[Sidenote: Opinion of persons conversant with the Navigation of these
Seas.]
On this subject, however, the author was instructed to take the opinion
of persons acquainted with the navigation of these seas. Accordingly,
when on his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses, he submitted
the subject to the consideration of Mr William Ellis, Commander of the
Ross Revenue Cutter, who had then been cruising for several months off
these islands, by order of Government, for intelligence relative to the
motions of the Dutch fleet, which then threatened to attempt a landing
on the Western Coast of Ireland. It was also submitted to Mr Riddoch,
Collector, and Mr Manson, Comptroller of the Customs, at Kirkwall; to
Mr John Traill, Mr Fotheringham, and Mr Strang of Sanday; and to the
ship-masters of Kirkwall and Stromness. These gentlemen all united in
opinion as to the superior usefulness of a light upon the island of
Sanday.
[Sidenote: Light-house resolved on.]
This measure having been resolved on by the Board, the plans were
remitted, with powers to proceed, to Mr William Rae, (now Sir William
Rae, Bart. Lord Advocate of Scotland,) who was then Sheriff of the
county of Orkney. The works at the Start Point were accordingly
commenced early in the summer of 1805; by the month of November the
light-room was finished, and the light exhibited on the 1st day of
January 1806. Intimation was at the same time given to the public,
that the beacon or tower of masonry erected in the year 1803, upon
the island of Sanday, having been found insufficient for preventing
the numerous shipwrecks upon the low shores of that island, had been
converted into a light-house.
[Sidenote: Description of Start Point Light.]
The Start Point of Sanday is situate in the county of Orkney, in
North Lat. 59° 20´, and Long. 2° 34´ west of London, from which North
Ronaldsay light-house Tower bears by compass, N. NE. ½ E., distant 8
miles, and the Lamb Head of Stronsay SW., distant 15 miles. The light
at the Start Point is from oil with reflectors, elevated 100 feet
above the medium level of the sea, and is visible from all points of
the compass, at the distance of 15 miles, in a favourable state of the
atmosphere. To distinguish this light from the other lights on this
coast, it is known to mariners as a _Revolving light, without colour_,
exhibiting a brilliant light once in every minute, and becoming
gradually less luminous; to a distant observer it totally disappears.
In this manner, each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame,
alternately shows a brilliant light, and a light becoming fainter and
more obscure, until it be totally eclipsed.
[Sidenote: The Foreman and Artificers sail for Leith in the Traveller.]
The alteration of the Start Point beacon into a light-house, and
the erection of houses for the light-keepers, were placed under the
management of Mr George Peebles, an experienced mason, and executed
with every possible attention. When the works were completed, he, and
such of the artificers as had been retained, proceeded to Stromness
on the mainland of Orkney, from whence they were most likely to get a
passage to the southward. The party consisted of six in number; and
Charles Peebles, the foreman’s brother, wishing to go directly to
his native place, took his passage in a vessel bound from Stromness
to Anstruther, while Mr George Peebles, and the remaining four men,
embarked on board of a schooner, called the Traveller, Cruickshanks
master, bound for Leith.
[Sidenote: The Traveller is wrecked.]
[Sidenote: Captain Manby’s Apparatus much wanted.]
This vessel sailed with a fair wind early on the 24th of December 1806.
On the following morning they got sight of Kinnaird Head light-house,
in Aberdeenshire, and had the prospect of speedily reaching the Firth
of Forth; but the wind having suddenly shifted to the south-east,
increased to a tremendous gale, which did much damage on the coast. The
Traveller immediately _put about_, and steered in quest of some safe
harbour in Orkney. At two o’clock in the afternoon, she passed through
the Pentland Firth , and got into the bay of Long Hope; but could
not reach the proper anchorage; and, at three o’clock, both anchors
were _let go_ in an outer roadstead. The storm still continuing with
unabated force, the cables parted or broke, and the vessel drifted on
the island of Flotta. The utmost efforts of those on board to pass
a rope to the shore, with the assistance of the inhabitants of the
island, proved ineffectual, (for want of some apparatus like Captain
Manby’s); the vessel struck upon a shelving rock, and, night coming on,
sunk in three fathoms water.
[Sidenote: The Foreman and four of the Artificers are drowned.]
Some of the unfortunate crew and passengers attempted to swim ashore,
but in the darkness of the night, they either lost their way, or were
dashed upon the rocks by the surge of the sea; while those who retained
hold of the rigging of the ship, being worn out with fatigue and the
piercing coldness of the weather during a long winter night, died
before morning,--when the shore presented the dreadful spectacle of
the wreck of no fewer than five vessels, with many lifeless bodies,
the mournful subjects of the care and pity of the islanders. In one
of these wrecks, all on board were lost; and, in the Traveller, only
the cabin-boy escaped. This poor boy, from whom these particulars were
learned, had, for a time, been sheltered from the severity of the
blast, by one of the crew, but being at length left alone, he clung to
the top-mast, from which he was with great difficulty removed in the
morning, when the storm had somewhat abated.
A very trifling circumstance prevented the vessel bound for Anstruther,
from leaving Stromness along with the Traveller, so that Charles
Peebles escaped this gale, and arrived with the sad tidings of the fate
of his brother and companions. In Mr George Peebles, the light-house
service lost a most active and faithful servant, whose next charge
would have been at the operations of the Bell Rock light-house. From
the peculiar circumstances of this case, the Commissioners were pleased
to grant small annuities to the mother of the foreman, and also to the
family of another of the sufferers.
_Bell Rock Light-house._
[Sidenote: ~1807.~]
In the prosecution of the plan of this introductory account of
the Northern Light-houses, we may observe that the attention of
the Commissioners was occupied with the erection of the Bell Rock
Light-house, during the years 1807, 8, 9, and 10. But as the detail
of the operations of these four years forms the chief object of this
work, it is not necessary that they should be further noticed here. We
therefore proceed to the next operations of the Board, in the order of
time.
_North Ronaldsay Beacon._
[Sidenote: ~1809.~]
[Sidenote: North Ronaldsay Light extinguished, and its Tower converted
into a Beacon.]
It having been considered superfluous to have two light-houses on
this part of the coast, within 8 miles of each other, the Light-house
Board resolved to extinguish North Ronaldsay light, and convert its
tower into a sea-mark, or beacon without a light. It was accordingly
intimated in the newspapers of the principal ports of the United
kingdom that the light on the Island of North Ronaldsay, in Orkney,
situated in North Lat. 59° 40´, Long. 2° 15´ west of London, would
be discontinued, and cease to be lighted from and after the 1st day
of June 1809; but that the Light-house Tower would be preserved as a
Beacon on the coast, by the erection of a Circular Ball of masonry,
measuring 8 feet in diameter, instead of a Light-room. This beacon
bears from the revolving light on the Start Point of Sanday, N.NE.,
½ E. by compass, distant 8 miles, which continues to be lighted
as heretofore, the Start Point having been found the most centrical
position for a light-house to warn the mariner of his approach to the
low shores of the North Isles of Orkney.
_Isle of May._
[Sidenote: ~1814.~]
[Sidenote: Light of May first Lighted 1635.]
[Sidenote: Patent ratified 1641.]
The island of May holds a prominent position at the entrance of the
Firth of Forth, as will be seen by referring to the charts of the
coast which accompany this work. From its connection also with the
estuary leading to the Capital of Scotland, and the principal ports of
her commerce, the light of May seems to have been the earliest public
light on our shores. Over the entrance door of the old light-house
tower, a stone, neatly cut into the figure by which the sun is usually
represented, bears the date 1635. It appears, also, from the printed
acts of the Scottish Parliament, Vol. v. p. 585., that power was
granted, in the reign of Charles I., to James Maxwell of Innerwick, and
John Cunninghame of Barnes, to erect a light-house upon the Isle of
May, and collect certain duties from shipping for its maintenance: The
patent for this purpose, was ratified by the Scots Parliament in 1641.
[Sidenote: Much complained of after the Union.]
The duties leviable for the light of May produced much dissatisfaction
after the Union, English and Irish vessels having been charged with
double rates, as foreigners. There was, besides, a general dislike to
any thing that was payable in the form of a tax being held as private
property. This light being also a coal-fire, exposed in an open choffer
to the vicissitudes of the weather, was found to be very insufficient.
After the appointment of a Light-house Board in Scotland, in the year
1786, the shipping interest often expressed a desire that the light
of May should be included as one of the Northern Lights; that it
might undergo the most recent improvements; that, according to the
spirit and conditions of the Northern Light-house acts, the invidious
distinction between the shipping of the same kingdom, with regard to
the light-house duties, might be done away; and also that there might
be some prospect of the duties being modified, and ultimately ceasing.
In the year 1809, the author foreseeing, that notwithstanding the
erection of the Bell Rock light-house, the navigation of this part of
the coast would still be very incomplete, unless the light of May were
improved, took an opportunity of bringing this subject under the notice
of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; but it did not then
appear that this could be taken up by the Board, unless it were at the
instance of the proprietor.
[Sidenote: Family of Scotstarvit become Proprietors of the Island.]
[Sidenote: Chamber of Commerce get the Light Improved.]
[Sidenote: Wemyss Coal preferred for the Lights.]
The family of Scotstarvit, into whose hands the property of the island
and light of May came by purchase, in 1714, along with the estate of
Westbarnes, in East Lothian, had long been solicited by the trade of
the Firth of Forth, to have the light made better, either by enlarging
the choffer for containing the coals, or by altering it to an oil light
with reflectors. Statements to this effect having been laid before
the proprietor, by the Chamber of Commerce of Edinburgh, a Committee
of that body visited the island in the year 1786, and reported on
the state of the light. In consequence of the representation of this
Committee, the choffer was enlarged to the capacity of a square of
three feet; and, instead of about 200 tons of coal _per annum_,
formerly consumed, the quantity of fuel was now doubled. The Chamber
further recommended, that the stock of coals, hitherto exposed to the
open air on the island, should in future be kept under cover, and that
the supply should be invariably got from the collieries of Wemyss,
which were preferred as fittest for maintaining a steady light, Wemyss
coal being then used at Heligoland, and other coal-lights upon the
Continent.
[Sidenote: Light of May considered the best Coal-Light in the kingdom.]
[Sidenote: Portland Family get possession of the Island.]
These conditions were most readily complied with by the tutors of Miss
Scott, the proprietor; and the light of May, from that period, was
found to be very considerably improved, the choffer for containing the
fuel being about double the capacity of any other light-house choffer
on the coast of Great Britain. The light of May, from this period,
may therefore be described as the most powerful coal-light in the
kingdom, although, from its exposure, it was still found to be very
unsteady, in bad weather, when most required by the mariner. Lime-kilns
and other accidental open fires upon the neighbouring shores, were
also apt to be mistaken for the Isle of May choffer. To obviate such
dangerous mistakes, there was no other method but the introduction of
a light from oil, with reflectors, inclosed in a glazed light-room.
The Trinity-house of Leith, in the year 1790, presented a memorial to
this effect, to the Duke of Portland, into whose possession the light
and Isle of May had come by his Grace’s marriage with Miss Scott of
Scotstarvit. But after many fruitless applications urged from time to
time by the Merchants of Leith, to have the light altered, the measure
was at length given up by them as hopeless.
[Sidenote: Loss of the Nymphen and Pallas Frigates.]
[Sidenote: Their prize-ship arrives in safety.]
[Sidenote: Nine men drowned.]
Early in the morning of the 19th day of December 1810, however, two
of his Majesty’s ships, the frigates Nymphen and Pallas, had the
misfortune to be wrecked near Dunbar, in consequence, it is believed,
of the light of a lime-kiln on the coast of Haddingtonshire having
been mistaken for the coal light of the island of May. These frigates
having come along the northern coast of Scotland, their situation, as
may be seen from the annexed maps, was very different from that of
ships approaching the land from a distant voyage, who are much more
liable to mistakes of this kind. But what renders the error in this
instance more unaccountable is, that one of the ships had even sent a
boat ashore at Johnshaven, on the opposite coast of Kincardineshire, in
the afternoon of the day preceding their loss; and the other, about the
same time and place, dispatched a small prize for Leith Roads, under
the command of a Midshipman,--who, in his course up the Firth of Forth,
saw the Bell Rock floating light, (for at this time the light-house was
not completed),--then the lights on the islands of May and Inchkeith
in succession, and before day-light in the morning of the 19th he
anchored his little vessel in the Roads. In reporting the prize to the
Admiral at Leith, this young gentleman expressed his surprise that
the frigates had not reached their station before him. In the course
of the forenoon of the same day, however, an express arrived, stating
the circumstance of the loss of the Pallas, which had happened in the
course of the night, about two miles to the eastward of Dunbar. Soon
afterwards, another notice arrived announcing to the Admiral the loss
of the Nymphen Frigate in the same manner, and from the same mistake.
It is not a little surprising, that although these ships had sailed
in company, and were wrecked within a few miles of each other, their
similar fate was perfectly unknown by the respective crews, till late
in the day on which the accidents happened. It was, however, so far
fortunate, that although the ships became total wrecks, only nine men
were lost of their joint crews, amounting to about 600 men; all of whom
might probably have perished, from the rocky and exposed shore on which
they were stranded, had not the weather been very moderate.
[Sidenote: Lord Melville applies to the Light-house Board about the
Isle of May Light.]
[Sidenote: Duke of Portland proposes to alter the Light;]
[Sidenote: And proposes that the Commissioners should become Lessees,
which is rejected.]
[Sidenote: The Duke demands L. 63,000 for the Light duties and Island.]
Immediately after the loss of these two fine frigates, valued at
not less than L. 100,000, Lord Viscount Melville, first Lord of the
Admiralty, applied to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses,
proposing that the light of May should be assumed as one of the
northern lights, and forthwith put under proper regulations. It may
here be proper to notice, that, prior to this accident, the Duke of
Portland entertained serious intentions of altering this light; and
the author had been employed to report to his Grace on its alteration,
from the use of pit-coal to oil, with reflectors, the expence of which
he had estimated at the annual sum of L. 600. The communication from
the Admiralty gave rise to a correspondence between the Light-house
Commissioners and the Duke of Portland, who proposed to give the
Light-house Board an allowance of L. 600 _per annum_, for taking burden
of the light of May, while his Grace was to continue to levy the
duties. This proposal was rejected on the part of the Commissioners,
who declined becoming lessees, under the existing acts or constitution
of their Board; and it was ultimately concluded, that they could only
take up this measure as purchasers for the public, in order to abolish
the charge on English and Irish vessels paying as foreigners, and to
lessen the duty for that light to the trade in general. In the present
state of the light-house funds, this purchase could only be made by a
special act of Parliament, and with pecuniary aid from Government:
as the sum demanded by the Duke for the island, and the right to the
light-duties, was unavoidably great, amounting to no less than Sixty
Thousand Guineas.
[Sidenote: Memorial presented to the Admiralty.]
[Sidenote: Isle of May and Duties purchased at L. 60,000.]
In the mean time, Mr Cuningham, Secretary to the Light-house Board,
was directed to acquaint Mr Walker, the Duke of Portland’s agent,
that the Commissioners could not treat for upholding the light of
May for payment of an annual sum. A memorial was then drawn up for
the Admiralty, of the whole proceedings in this measure, which was
presented by Sir William Rae, Bart., on the part of the Light-house
Board; when their Lordships were pleased to give their countenance
and support to a bill for the purchase of the light duties and island
of May. This bill was accordingly brought into Parliament, and passed
in the Session of 1814, authorising a loan of L. 30,000 to be made
from the Treasury to the Commissioners of Northern Light-houses, and
empowering them to make the purchase from the Duke of Portland, for the
sum of L. 60,000.
[Sidenote: Duty of the Light of May reduced by the Act of 1814.]
This important transaction having been closed, the Light-house Board,
in terms of this act (46th George III. chap. cxxxvi.) were empowered
to reduce the light-duty of the Isle of May, to all _British_ vessels,
from one penny half-penny, as collected heretofore, to one penny _per_
ton, when English and Irish ships were no longer treated as foreigners,
by paying double dues. Immediate measures were also taken for altering
and improving the light. It was, however, too late at the end of the
session of 1814, to commence operations on the island; but, in the
following summer, the new light-house was erected, and a light from oil
with reflectors was exhibited, on the 1st day of February 1816, after a
coal-light had been continued here for 181 years, or from 1635.
[Sidenote: Additional Apartments at the Isle of May.]
As the island of May lies about half way between the light-houses of
Inch Keith and the Bell Rock, it was thought proper to have two or
three apartments in the May Light-house for the reception of such
members of the Light-house Board, as might happen to be detained by
contrary winds in occasional visits to the Bell Rock, upon which
landing is often very difficult and precarious, depending both on the
state of the weather and the tides. The dwelling-house at the Isle of
May, therefore, is larger than would otherwise have been required for
the accommodation of the two light-keepers and their families.
[Sidenote: Notice given of the alterations at Isle of May and
Inchkeith.]
In consequence of this change upon the light of May, notice was
given to the public, that it had been assumed one of the Northern
Light-houses, and that the Commissioners had directed a new
light-house, upon improved principles, to be erected, which would not
only alter its former appearance, but also occasion a change on the
light of Inchkeith, situate about twenty-two miles farther up the
Firth of Forth. The following description of the Isle of May light was
published.
[Sidenote: Description of the Light of May.]
[Sidenote: Old Light-house converted into a Pilot’s Guard-room.]
“The light-house on the Island of May, is situate at the entrance of
the Firth of Forth, in North Lat. 56° 12´, and Long. 2° 36´ west of
London. From the light-house, Fifeness bears, by compass, N. by E.
½ E., distant five miles, and the Staple Rocks lying off Dunbar, S.
by W. ½ W., distant ten miles. The light being formerly from coal,
exposed to the weather in an open grate or choffer, was discontinued on
the night of the 1st day of February 1816, when a light from oil, with
reflectors, known to mariners as a _Stationary Light_, was exhibited.
The new light-house tower, upon the Island of May, is contiguous to
the site of the old one, and is elevated 240 feet above the medium
level of the sea, of which the masonry forms 57 feet, and is therefore
similar to the old tower in point of height. The new light is defended
from the weather in a glazed light-room, and has a uniformly _steady_
appearance, resembling a star of the first magnitude, and is seen from
all points of the compass, at the distance of about seven leagues, and
intermediately according to the state of the atmosphere.”--The old
light-house tower on the Island of May, has been reduced in height to
about 20 feet, and by directions of the Light-house Board, it has been
converted into a _guard-room_ like that upon Inchkeith, for the use and
conveniency of pilots and fishermen.
_Inchkeith Revolving Light._
[Sidenote: Description of Inchkeith Revolving Light.]
The above description, in so far as regards the appearance of the light
of May being exactly applicable to that of Inchkeith, described at page
25. of this Introduction, it was found expedient to alter it from a
stationary to a revolving light, that it might be distinguished from
the light of May, where a revolving light would have been liable to be
mistaken for the Bell Rock light, owing to the more contiguous position
of the May island to the Bell Rock.
The light upon Inchkeith, hitherto a stationary light from oil, with
reflectors, was therefore altered and converted into that description
of light known to mariners as a _Revolving light without colour_, on
the same night that the change took place upon the Isle of May. The
light of Inchkeith is seen from all points of the compass, at the
distance of five leagues in favourable weather, exhibiting a bright
light once in every minute, and gradually becoming less luminous, it
totally disappears to a distant observer. In this manner, each periodic
revolution of the reflector-frame, alternately shows a brilliant light,
which becomes fainter, and more obscure, until it is totally eclipsed.
By this alteration, the same description and appearance of the other
lights upon the coast is preserved, and the possibility of mistaking
Inchkeith light for the numerous lights on the land, with which it is
surrounded, is now also effectually prevented.
_Corsewall._
[Sidenote: ~1815.~]
[Sidenote: Additional Light proposed for the western coast on Corsewall
Point.]
It had long been the wish of the mercantile interest of the Firth
of Clyde and St George’s Channel, to have a light on the coast of
Galloway, to direct ships, on the Scotch side, into the Irish Channel.
From the great amount of light-house duties collected upon the western
coast, and the extent of light-house works which had of late years been
erected upon the eastern shores, including the Bell Rock and Isle of
May light-houses, the Commissioners were desirous of accommodating
the trade of the western coast, as far as the demands of shipping
required, or the state of the light-house funds would permit. It was
accordingly resolved, that a report upon this subject, made to the
Light-house Board by the author, should be submitted to the trade of
Liverpool, Glasgow and Greenock, for their observations. Having in
this manner procured the necessary information, it was resolved that a
light-house should be erected for the benefit of this coast, upon the
northern extremity of the Mull of Galloway in Wigtonshire, on the point
of Corsewall; because, in addition to the advantages of this situation,
as an excellent direction both for the entrance of the Irish Channel
and Firth of Clyde, it would answer as a guide to the Roadstead or
anchorage of Loch Ryan.
[Sidenote: Light-houses necessary for the navigation of the Irish
Channel.]
In the course of the correspondence on this subject, it had been stated
by Mr Quintin Leitch, Chief Magistrate of Greenock, a gentleman well
acquainted with the navigation of these seas, that if light-houses were
erected upon the Isle of Man, these, with the lights of Copeland and
Kilwarlin, on the Irish side of the channel, together with the proposed
light on Corsewall Point, and another on the Hulin or Maiden rocks, off
the coast of Antrim, would fully protect this important part of the
coast.
[Sidenote: Foundation-stone of Corsewall Light-house laid.]
After considering the subject in its various bearings, the Board
resolved, as before noticed, on the erection of a light-house on
Corsewall Point, in the month of January 1815, and on the 17th day of
June following, the foundation-stone was laid, by Mr Quintin Leitch,
as master mason, when Mr James Spreull, Chamberlain of the city of
Glasgow, Mr Lachlan Kennedy, under whose charge the works were placed,
and the Engineer, assisted at the ceremony. In the course of the Summer
and Autumn, the tower of this light-house was got to the height of 35
feet, and some progress was also made with the walls of the house for
the light-keepers.
[Sidenote: ~1816.~]
[Sidenote: Light-house finished.]
The works at Corsewall being suspended during winter, were again
resumed in the ensuing spring. The light-room was completed in the
autumn, and the light was exhibited to the public on the night of the
15th day of November 1816, agreeably to the following description.
[Sidenote: Description of Corsewall Light.]
“Corsewall light-house is situate in the county of Wigton, in North
Lat. 55° 1´, and West Long. 5° 5´. It bears by compass, from Millour
Point, on the western side of the channel leading into Loch Ryan, W. by
S., distant about two miles; from Turnberry Point, SW. 21 miles; from
the Craig of Ailsa SS. W. 15 miles; from the Mull of Kintyre S. E. S.
31 miles; from the Hulin or Maiden rocks on the coast of Antrim, E. by
S. 20 miles; from Copeland Light-house, near the entrance of Belfast
loch, NE. ½ E. 22 miles, and from Laggan point in Galloway, NE.,
distant 3½ miles. To distinguish this light, which is from oil, with
a reflecting and revolving apparatus, from the other lights upon the
coast, it is known to mariners as a _Revolving light with colour_, and
exhibits from the same light-room a light of the natural appearance,
alternating with a light tinged with a red colour. These lights,
respectively, attain their greatest strength, or most luminous effect,
at the end of every two minutes. But, in the course of each periodic
revolution of the reflector-frame, the lights become alternately
fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally
eclipsed for a short period. The light-room at Corsewall is glazed all
round, but the light is hid from the mariner by the high land near
Laggan Point, towards the south, and by Turnberry Point towards the
north. This light is elevated 112 feet above the medium level of the
sea, and its most luminous side may be seen like a star of the first
magnitude, at the distance of five or six leagues, but the side tinged
red being more obscured by the colouring shades, is not seen at so
great a distance.”
_Isle of Man._
[Sidenote: Rate of Light-house duties for the Isle of Man.]
The subject of the erection of the light-houses on the Isle of Man,
having again been agitated by the merchants of Liverpool, the rates of
duty which would probably be demanded for the erection of a light-house
upon the Calf of Man, was procured from one of the agents of the
Trinity-House of London upon that coast. This schedule of duties
appearing to be high, a correspondence took place between Mr William
Laird of Liverpool, and Mr Quintin Leitch of Greenock, respecting the
rate of Scotch light-house duties, which was ultimately brought under
the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-Houses, by Sir
William Rae, Bart.
[Sidenote: ~1802.~]
[Sidenote: Author’s Report on this subject.]
Reference having been made to the author relative to the expence of
erecting a light-house upon the Calf of Man, he stated to the Board,
that, in the course of a tour which he had made in the year 1802, round
the coast of Great Britain, he visited the Isle of Man, with a view to
ascertain the most eligible places for light-houses on that island,
where he considered two light-house stations to be indispensably
necessary, viz. one on the Calf of Man, to the south, and another on
the Point of Ayre, towards the north of the island. From the numerous
shipping of that district, he only calculated upon the duty of one
farthing _per_ ton upon shipping for the light-houses of both stations.
The Commissioners took this matter under consideration at the time, as
appears from their minutes of the 14th January 1803, which state, that
“Mr Stevenson had reported very strongly of the great utility which
would attend the erection of light-houses on the Isle of Man; but that
island not being within the jurisdiction either of the Commissioners of
the Northern Light-houses or Trinity Board of London, both boards seem
thereby to be prevented from accomplishing an object so much wished for
by mariners, as such an improvement upon the coast would prove a great
additional security to the navigation of those seas, and especially to
the trade of a great number of the ports of England and Ireland. In
order, therefore, that this circumstance might not be overlooked, the
Commissioners direct this notice to be taken of it in their minutes,
that if an application to Parliament should, at a future period, be
deemed necessary, they may judge how far it may not be proper in them
to apply for power to erect lights upon the Isle of Man.”
[Sidenote: Scotch Light-house Board applied to for lights on the Isle
of Man.]
When these circumstances were intimated to the merchants of Liverpool,
and especially that the rate of one farthing _per_ ton was considered a
sufficient rate of duty, the business was brought under the notice of
the Association of Shipowners and other public bodies of Liverpool,
by Mr John Gladstone, when a representation and petition from them was
presented to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, praying,
that they would bring a bill into Parliament, to enable them to erect
the necessary light-houses on the Isle of Man.
[Sidenote: Act of 1815.]
This application having been complied with, Sir William Rae was
requested to attend to the progress of the bill, and to take the
assistance of any of the other members of the light-house board who
might happen to be in London at the time. The Isle of Man Light-house
Bill was accordingly brought forward by Mr Huskisson, in absence of Mr
Canning, member of Parliament for Liverpool, as a measure in which that
port was specially interested. But when the subject was communicated to
the late Mr Rose, M. P., one of the elder brethren of the Trinity House
of London, he requested that nothing might be done in this measure,
until he should have an opportunity of consulting with the gentlemen
of the Trinity-House, as he considered the Isle of Man to be within
the district of that board. After repeated meetings, at which Mr Rose
attended, he ultimately stated, that the Trinity Board did not consider
the Isle of Man as coming under their line of coast; and that the
Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses might, therefore, go on with
their bill. It was accordingly brought forward in the House of Commons,
and the author attended to prove the preamble of the bill in the House
of Lords; and in June 1815 it received the Royal assent.
[Sidenote: Difficulty in fixing the position of the Isle of Man lights.]
In returning towards Scotland, I embarked in the Light-house Yacht
at Liverpool, and visited the Isle of Man. It appeared, on examining
the site for the erection of a light-house on the Point of Ayre, or
northern extremity of the island, that there would be no difficulty
in fixing its place. But the case was different at the Calf Island,
as there seemed an evident advantage in having the house on a low
situation, to keep it more free from fog, and where it might also
be more in the line of direction with a dangerous reef called the
Chickens, lying about a mile into the offing. On this low position,
called Kaager Point, the high land of the Calf would have shut in
the light very much from the northward. Another situation, however,
presented itself; but, as this last station was considerably higher, it
might perhaps be found more uncertain with regard to fog resting upon
it in thick and hazy weather; and it was therefore thought prudent to
place a trusty person on the island, with directions for observing and
communicating the state of the weather for about six months, previously
to determining the site of the light-house on the Calf of Man. This
mode of inquiring into the subject, was strengthened by the report
of some intelligent persons relative to the prevailing state of the
weather at the Isle of Man, who represented that the Calf Island was
less liable to be enveloped in fog than the higher parts of the Main
Island.
[Sidenote: A person stationed on the Island to observe the state of the
weather.]
In the month of August 1815, when Sir William Rae, Bart. then Sheriff
of the shire of Edinburgh, Mr Robert Hamilton, Sheriff of Lanarkshire,
and Mr Adam Duff, Sheriff of Forfarshire, Commissioners of the Northern
Light-houses, visited this island, they concurred in judging it highly
proper to make special observations on the state of the weather at
the Calf Island. In the beginning of November following, the author
accordingly sent Mr Macurich, a shipmaster in the light-house service,
to that island, with directions to reside there, and make monthly
returns of the state of the weather, agreeably to a printed form.
During his stay of seven months, it appears, upon the whole, that the
fog rested only twice upon the highest land of the Calf, while it
cleared partially below. On one of these occasions, I was on board of
the Light-house yacht, then at anchor off the island, when the fog was
for a time general; and as the weather became clear, I observed that it
first disappeared upon the lower parts of the island; and that in half
an hour the whole of the Calf was seen. In the journal of the weather
alluded to, the Calf Island is represented as often perfectly free of
fog, while the higher parts of the opposite mainland of Man, was hid in
mist. To account for this, it may be noticed, that the mass of matter
in the Calf island is much less, and the land is also much lower, than
in the main island. Part of this effect may also be ascribed to the
rapidity of the tides, which create a current of wind, particularly
in the narrow channel between the Main and Calf islands; which have
a direct tendency to clear away the fog; as I have observed at the
Skerries in the Pentland Firth , and in similar situations on different
parts of the coast, where rapid currents prevail.
[Sidenote: ~1816.~]
[Sidenote: Distinguishing Light for the Calf of Man.]
From these observations, the author was led to report to the
Commissioners, that the light-house on the Calf of Man should hold
an intermediate position between the highest part of the island,
called Bushel’s Hill, and the lower site called Kaager Point; and,
further, that by erecting two light-house towers in a certain relative
position to each other, they would point out the line of direction of
the dangerous sunken rocks called the Chickens, and by adopting that
description of light known to mariners as a _Revolving light without
Colour_, this station would be sufficiently distinguished from the
lights which surround the Isle of Man on the Scotch, Irish, and English
shores.
[Sidenote: ~1817.~]
[Sidenote: Lights of the Isle of Man completed.]
A difficulty occurred in proceeding with the Isle of Man light-houses,
from the want of funds to enable the Commissioners to proceed with the
works. The Board had already become liable for a large sum to liquidate
the payment of the purchase-money of the private right of the Portland
Family to the duties of the light of May. On this measure, and in the
erection of the Bell Rock light-house, as before noticed, there had
been expended upwards of L. 160,000 in the course of the last ten
years; so that it became necessary to borrow L. 10,000, agreeably to
the act, for the Isle of Man. In this state of things, the works at
the Isle of Man were delayed for a time; but, in the month of August
1816, they were commenced. The light-rooms were completed in the month
of December 1817; and, on the night of the 1st of February 1818, the
lights, both at the stations of the Point of Ayre, and Calf Island,
were exhibited to the public, agreeably to the following descriptions.
_Point of Ayre._
[Sidenote: ~1818.~]
[Sidenote: Description of the Point of Ayre Light-house.]
The only consideration to be taken into view in fixing the site of the
Point of Ayre Light-house, was the wasting appearance of the shores by
the effects of the sea at this part of the coast. Although, therefore,
it would have answered fully better, for the purposes of the light, to
have erected the tower close upon high-water-mark, yet the beach being
composed of a loose shifting gravel, it became a matter of prudence
rather to keep the buildings at some distance from it.
“The _Point of Ayre_ light-house is situate about 650 feet from the
sea, at high-water of spring tides, upon an extensive plain in the Main
Island of Man, in north latitude 54° 27´, and longitude 4° 20´ west of
London. The light-house bears, by compass, from the Mull of Galloway,
S. S. E. and is distant 22 miles; from Burrowhead, S. S. W. ½ W.
distant 16 miles; from St Bees, in Cumberland, W. by N. ¾ N. distant
29 miles; and from Rue Point, E. by S. distant 4 miles.
“The light is from oil, with a reflecting and revolving apparatus, and
is known to mariners as a “Revolving-coloured-light,” exhibiting from
the same Reflector-frame a light of the natural appearance, alternating
with one tinged red. These lights respectively attain their most
luminous effect, at the end of every two minutes. But, in the course
of each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, both lights become
alternately fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are
totally eclipsed for a short time.
“The Light-room at the Point of Ayre is glazed all round, but the light
is hid from the mariner by the high land of Maughold Head towards the
south, and by Rue Point towards the west. Being elevated 106 feet above
the medium level of the sea, its most luminous side may be seen, like a
star of the first magnitude, at the distance of five leagues; but the
side tinged red, being somewhat obscured by the coloured shades, cannot
be seen at so great a distance.”
_Calf of Man._
[Sidenote: Description of Calf of Man Light.]
“There are two leading lights on the _Calf of Man_, situate on the
western side of the small island called the Calf, in north Lat. 54° 5´,
and Long. 4° 46´ west of London. These two light-houses are distant
from each other 560 feet. The higher light bears by compass from the
Mull of Galloway, S. SW. distant 37 miles; Peelhead, in the Isle of
Man, SW. distant 11 miles; Langness Point, W. by N. ½ N. distant
6 miles; and from the sunken rocks, called the Chickens, NE. ⅓ E.
distant about 1¼ mile.
“These lights are from oil, each light-room being furnished with
a distinct reflecting and revolving apparatus, by which they are
distinguished from the other lights on the coast, and rendered useful
as leading lights for passing the dangerous rocks called the Chickens.
The light-house towers, as before noticed, are built at the distance
of 560 feet apart, bearing from each other NE. ⅓ E. and SW. ¼ W.
Consequently, to an observer, in the direction of the Chickens, both
lights will appear in one, or be seen in the same line of direction,
and be known to mariners as “Double-revolving and Leading-lights
without colour.” These lights will respectively attain their most
luminous effect at the end of every two minutes; but, in the course
of each periodic revolution of the reflector frames, they alternately
become fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are
totally eclipsed for a short time. The two light-rooms at the Calf of
Man are glazed all round, but are hid from the mariner by the high
land of Peel Head towards the NE. and by Spanish Head in an eastern
direction; both lights, however, will be visible at about ¼ of a mile
from Langness Point. The lower light is elevated 305 feet above the
medium level of the sea, and the high light 396 feet, and they will be
seen like two stars of the first magnitude, at the distance of six or
seven leagues, in a favourable state of the atmosphere.”
[Sidenote: Extension of the Northern Lights to the Irish Sea.]
By the extension of the works of the Scotch Light-house Board to the
Isle of Man, the system of the Northern Light-houses may now be said,
in a general way, to extend over the whole of the coast of Scotland,
while the lights of Man are of immediate importance to the extensive
shipping of the coasts of England and Ireland, which bound the Irish
Sea. The trade of Dublin and Newry, &c. on the one side, and of
Liverpool, Lancaster, Whitehaven, and Workington, &c. on the other,
find the traffic with those ports much more safe since the erection of
these lights. Instead of shunning the Isle of Man, as formerly, owing
to the projecting points, sunken rocks, and sand-banks connected with
it, the mariner now steers boldly for this island, and takes shelter
under it in stormy weather.
_Sumburgh Head._
[Sidenote: Shetland Islands.]
According to the existing acts of Parliament relative to the Northern
Lights, no additional duty is exigible for any new erections of the
Board, as the only part of the coast not liable, prior to the extension
of the Scots Light-house Acts to the Isle of Man, was that of the
Solway Firth , now also subject to the duty. These acts, however,
empower the Commissioners to erect additional light-houses; and when
a sufficient number shall have been exhibited on the coast, and a
surplus fund provided for their maintenance, the duty on shipping is
ultimately to cease, and be no longer payable. Presuming, therefore,
upon the prosperity of the commerce of the country, for an increase of
funds, the Commissioners, though there were large sums to pay, both in
the form of interest for Government loans, and instalments for borrowed
money, taking into consideration the unprotected state of the Shetland
Islands, a part of their district still without the immediate benefit
of light-houses, had in view to erect an additional Light-house, as
soon as their funds would admit, on some of the most prominent points
of that group of Islands. The winters of 1817 and 1818 having been
very unfortunate to the shipping of the North Seas, and some very
distressing shipwrecks having occurred at Shetland, Mr William Erskine,
now Lord Kineddar, then Sheriff of the County of Orkney and Shetland,
and _ex officio_ one of the Commissioners, brought the subject again
under the notice of the Board; and, in the month of January 1819, it
was finally resolved that a Light-house should be erected on Sumburgh
Head in Shetland, the position of which will be seen by inspecting
Plate III. This work having been accordingly contracted for by Mr John
Reid, builder, of Peterhead, the first stone of the building was laid
on the 10th day of May 1820, and the light exhibited on the night of
the 15th day of January 1821, agreeably to the following specification
of the position of the house, and appearance of the light:
[Sidenote: Description of Sumburgh Head Light-house.]
“_Sumburgh Head_ Lighthouse is situate on the southern promontory of
the Mainland of the Shetland Islands, in north latitude 59° 52´, and
longitude 1° 15´ west of London. The Lighthouse, by compass, bears from
Hangcliff-head in Noss Island SW. by W. ¼ West, distant 21 miles.
From Fair Island NE. by E. ½ East, 26 miles. And from the Island of
Foula, SE. by S. ¼ South, distant 28 miles. In reference to these
bearings, the light is visible to the mariner from the southward,
between Noss and Foula Islands. This light is known to mariners as a
“Stationary light from oil with reflectors;” and being elevated 300
feet above the medium level of the sea, it is seen, like a star of the
first magnitude, at the distance of seven or eight leagues, and at
intermediate distances, according to the state of the atmosphere.”
[Sidenote: Built with double walls.]
From the very exposed situation of the promontory of Sumburgh Head,
and the great difficulty experienced in preserving the walls of
light-houses in a water-tight state, the writer followed a new plan
with the buildings at this station, in having made the whole of the
external walls double; the masonry of the outward wall being lined
with brick instead of lath-work, with a space of three inches left
between the double walls. This method was of course, more expensive in
the first instance, but will ultimately be much more economical, as
repairs, in these remote situations, are unavoidably very expensive.
This house is free of dampness, and has not admitted a single drop
of water through any part of the walls during the storms of two
successive winters, although the force of the wind is such, that the
light-keepers, when out of doors, are frequently obliged to move upon
their hands and knees, to prevent their being blown off the high land.
In such states of the weather, accompanied by rain, it is hardly
possible to prevent a single wall from admitting water.
_Carr Rock._
The Carr forms the seaward termination of a reef of sunken rocks which
appear at low-water, extending about a mile and three quarters from the
shore of Fifeness, on the northern side of the entrance of the Firth of
Forth. The very dangerous position of this rock, as a _turning point_,
in the navigation of the northern-bound shipping of the Firth , will
be seen from the chart of the coast, Plate IV. It seemed necessary,
therefore, for the safety of navigation, that the Carr Rock, in
connection with the several light-houses of the Bell Rock, Isle of May,
and Inchkeith, should be made as easily distinguishable to the mariner
as possible.
[Sidenote: Shipwrecks at the Carr Rock.]
The author, while occupied with the works at the Bell Rock, having been
often struck with the frequent and distressing occurrence of shipwreck
at the Carr Rock, was induced to collect information as to the probable
numbers of these wrecks; and he accordingly obtained, from persons who
had good access to know, the following list of wrecked vessels, for a
period of nine years prior to the commencement of the works at the Carr
Rock.
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| _List of Shipwrecks off Fifeness, between the Years 1800 and 1809._ |
+------------------+----------------+--------------+-------------------+
| VESSELS’ NAMES. | MASTERS’ NAMES.| DESCRIPTIONS.| PORT BELONGING TO.|
+------------------+----------------+--------------+-------------------+
|Unknown. | Simpson. | Sloop. | South Ferry. |
|Martha. | Clark. | Do. | Crail. |
|Leven. | Phillip. | Do. | Leven. |
|Neptune. | Finlay. | Do. | Dundee. |
|Unknown. | Brown. | Do. | Kincardine. |
|Aurora. | Leslie. | Brig. | Arbroath. |
|Lady Charlotte. | Duncan. | Sloop. | Aberdeen. |
|Two Brothers. | Carfrae. | Brig. | Dundee. |
|Expedition. | Nicol. | Sloop. | Kincardine. |
|Isabella. | Rintoul. | Do. | Perth. |
|Unknown. | Johnston. | Do. | Do. |
|Do. | Unknown. | Do. | John’s Haven. |
|New Deer. | Banks. | Do. | Kirkaldy. |
|Unknown. | Hamson. | Galliot. | Christiansand. |
|Countess of Elgin.| Gowans. | Sloop. | John’s Haven. |
|Unknown. | Small. | Do. | South Ferry. |
+------------------+----------------+--------------+-------------------+
[Sidenote: Floating-buoy moored off the Carr.]
By this melancholy list we find, that no fewer than sixteen vessels
have, in the course of nine years, been either lost or stranded on
the Carr Rocks, being almost at the rate of two wrecks in the year.
From this alarming state of things, it was thought advisable to bring
the subject under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern
Light-houses, when the Board immediately ordered a Floating-buoy, of a
large size, to be moored off the Carr. The moorings for this buoy were
laid down, upon the 18th of September 1809, in 10 fathoms water, at the
distance of about 200 fathoms, in a north-eastern direction, from the
rock. But, owing to the heavy swell of sea, and the rocky sandstone
bottom on this part of the coast, it was found hardly possible to
prevent the buoy from occasionally drifting, even although it had been
attached to part of the great chain, made from bar-iron, measuring
1½ inch square, with which the Bell Rock floating light had been
moored for upwards of four years, without injury. The moorings of the
Carr Rock-buoy, from the continual rubbing upon the sandstone bottom,
were worn through with the friction in the course of ten months; and
during the four years which it rode here, though regularly examined and
replaced, in the proper season of the year, it was no less than five
times adrift, to the great inconveniency and hazard of shipping.
[Sidenote: A Beacon of masonry is resolved on.]
Under these circumstances, the Light-house Board was induced to
erect a Beacon of masonry upon the Carr Rock itself, instead of the
Floating-buoy. This work was commenced in the month of June, in the
year 1813, under the direction of the writer. The stone for this
building was taken from an excellent sandstone quarry on the property
of Lord Kellie, near the mouth of Pitmilly Burn: But, owing to the
smallness of the rock, the depth of water upon it, and the exposed
nature of the situation, the work was afterwards attended with very
great difficulty.
[Sidenote: Dimensions of the Carr Rock.]
The length of the Carr Rock, from south to north, measures 75 feet;
but its greatest breadth, as seen at low-water of spring-tides, being
only 23 feet, it was found to be impracticable to obtain a base for a
building of greater diameter than 18 feet. Such also was the fractured
and rugged state of the surface of this rock, that it became necessary
to excavate part of the foundation-pit of the building to the depth of
seven feet. The difficulties of this part of the work were also greatly
increased, owing to the foundation, on the eastern side, being under
the level of the lowest tides: so that it became necessary to construct
a coffer-dam. Part of this coffer-dam it was necessary to remove, and
carry ashore, after each tide’s work; and on the return of the workmen
at ebb-tide, a considerable time was unavoidably occupied in fixing the
moveable part of the coffer-dam, and in pumping the water out of the
foundation-pit.
[Sidenote: Difficulties of this work compared with those of the Bell
Rock.]
But, to enable the reader to form a comparative estimate of the
difficulties attending the early stages of the Carr Rock Beacon,
with those of the Bell Rock Light-house, it may be noticed, that
the period which the artificers were actually at work upon the Carr
Rock, as ascertained by the foreman during the first season, or the
summer of 1813, was 41 hours; and in 1814, after the experience of one
year’s work, these were only extended to 53 hours. Now, if we compare
1807 and 1808, the two first years’ work at the Bell Rock, we find
the artificers were respectively about 180 and 265 hours upon that
rock. The first two years at the Carr Rock were entirely occupied in
excavating and preparing the foundation, and in laying 10 stones, or
the half-course of masonry, which brings the foundation to a uniform
level, for the first entire course of the building, as shewn in Plate
II.; while, at the Bell Rock, in the two first seasons three courses
were erected, as represented in Plate IX., of a building situate 12
miles from the shore, and measuring 42 feet in diameter at the base,
besides the erection of a Beacon-house or Barrack for the workmen.
The establishment for the works at the Bell Rock was of course on a
much larger scale than that of the Carr Rock; but still the latter was
equally effective, and the same apparatus, artificers and seamen, were
employed at both.
[Sidenote: Third year’s work at the Carr Rock.]
During the third year’s work, or 1815, the second course of the masonry
was completed upon the Carr, and nine stones of the third course had
been got laid by the 3d of October, when a heavy ground-swell obliged
the artificers precipitately to leave the rock and take to their
boats. This swell was immediately accompanied by a gale of easterly
wind, and before the cement had taken bond or firmness, the surge of
the sea washed it out; when the oaken trenails, used as a temporary
fixture during the progress of the work, were wrenched off, and the
stone-joggles broken asunder. The whole of the nine blocks of stone
were thus swept off the rock and lost in deep water, though they had
been completely dove-tailed, and fitted on the same principles as the
masonry of the Bell Rock Light-house, where not a single stone was lost
during the whole progress of the work.
[Sidenote: Fourth year’s work.]
In the year 1816, or fourth season, the work was continued till the
month of November, when the building had attained the height of about
20 feet, or the 16th course, and still wanting 18 courses to complete
the masonry. In this state, it was left till the following season,
having been previously loaded with about four tons of lead, cast in
suitable pieces, and suspended within the void or central hollow of
the building. The operations of the fourth season had been also much
retarded by several untoward accidents. In particular, a heavy gale
overtook the workmen while they were laying the 7th course, which
obliged them to leave the rock before the precautionary measures could
be taken, for closing and completing the work immediately in hand; in
consequence of which, the stones on the eastern, or weather-side of
this course, were lifted off their bases, the oaken trenails broken,
and five of the blocks of stone swept away. At another period, the
Pozzolano mortar of the beds of two of the stones was washed out, and
so much injured, that the stones required to be lifted and relaid. The
works were this season intended to have been closed early in the month
of October, when another unlucky gale sprung up, just as the sixteenth
course had been laid, which lifted seven of the stones off their beds;
but they were fortunately held by the oaken trenails, and in this state
they remained for about three weeks, before a landing could possibly be
effected, to replace them.
[Sidenote: Fifth year’s work.]
In the month of June 1817, the fifth year’s work was begun, and the
remaining courses of the masonry were built; but in the month of
November, the coast was visited with a gale of wind at south-east,
accompanied with a heavy swell of sea, which, unfortunately, washed
down the upper part of the building, and reduced it to the height of
the fifth course, which formed part of the fourth year’s work.
[Sidenote: Beacon finished with cast-iron pillars and ball.]
Instead, therefore, of completing this Beacon with masonry, as had
been originally intended, and providing the Machine and large Bell,
which was to have measured 5 feet across the mouth, to be tolled by
the alternate rise and fall of the tide, it now became a matter of
consideration in what form the upper part of this design should be
finished. The Board ultimately determined on the erection of six
columns of cast-iron upon the remaining courses of masonry. These
columns are put together with spigot and facet joints, strongly
connected with collars and horizontal bars of malleable iron; the whole
terminating with a cast-iron ball, formed in ribs, elevated about 25
feet above the medium level of the sea. In this manner the Carr Rock
Beacon was at length completed, in the month of September 1821, after
six years work. The following is the notice and description of it given
to the public:
[Sidenote: Bearings and Description of the Carr Rock Beacon.]
“The Carr Rock forms the seaward ledge of a range of sunken rocks,
extending about two miles from Fifeness, on the eastern coast of
Scotland, in North Latitude 56° 17’, and Longitude 2° 35´ west of
London. By compass the Carr Rock Beacon bears SW. by W. from the Bell
Rock, distant 11 miles; and from the Isle of May Light-house N.N.E.
¼ E., distant 6 miles.
“The lower part of the beacon is a circular building of masonry, 18
feet in diameter, forming a basement for six pillars of cast-iron,
terminating in a hollow ball of that metal, which measures 3 feet
across, and is elevated about 25 feet above the medium level of the
sea.
“The erection of this beacon has been attended with much difficulty,
having occupied six years in building; in the course of which the
works sustained occasional damage. Mariners are therefore warned,
when they _run_ for the Carr Rock Beacon, to do so with caution,
both on account of its exposure to the breach of the sea, and its
liability to receive damage from vessels under sail.”
[Sidenote: Application of the tide-machine described.]
The form and construction of the Carr Rock Beacon, both as originally
intended, and ultimately executed, will be better understood by
referring to Plate II., and to the annexed Description of the Plates.
The motion to be given to the bell-apparatus, or tide-machine, was
to be effected by admitting the sea water through a small aperture,
of three inches in diameter, perforated in the solid masonry,
communicating with a cylindrical chamber, in the centre of the
building, measuring two feet in diameter, in which a float or metallic
air-tank, was to rise and fall with the tide. The train of machinery
for this apparatus was calculated for a perpendicular rise of only six
feet, being equal to the lowest neap-tides on this coast. During the
period of flood-tide, the air-vessel, in its elevation, by the pressure
of the water, was to give motion to machinery for tolling the bell,
and winding up a weight; which last, in its descent, during ebb-tide,
was to continue the motion of the machine, until the flood-tide again
returned to perform the joint operation of tolling the bell and raising
the weight. A working model of a machine upon this principle having
been constructed, it was kept in motion for a period equal to several
months: this was effected by water run through a succession of tanks,
raised by a pump from the lower one to the higher, thus producing the
effect of flood and ebb tides. The time during which this apparatus was
in action, having been ascertained by an index, a constant attendance
upon the machine, during this protracted experiment, became unnecessary.
[Sidenote: General application of tide-machinery.]
The upper termination of the Beacon, in its present form, does not
admit of the application of the tide-machine with the bell-apparatus.
Experiments as applicable to this have, however, been tried with a
wind-instrument, to be sounded by the pressure of the sea water; but
it has not succeeded to the extent that seems necessary for a purpose
of this kind. We have indeed thought, that the application of pressure
as a power, communicated by the waters of the ocean, in mechanical
operations, might be carried to almost any extent, by simply providing
a chamber or dock, large enough for the reception of a float or vessel,
of dimensions equivalent to the force required. This description of
machinery is more particularly applicable in situations where the tides
have a great rise, as in the Solway Firth , Bristol Channel, and other
parts of the British seas; and at St Malo, on the coast of France.
[Sidenote: Leading Lights suggested.]
A Beacon of any form, unprovided with a light, must always be
considered an imperfect land-mark, and therefore various modes have
been contemplated, for more completely pointing out the position of
the Carr Rock. It has been proposed that phosphoric lights should be
exhibited from the top of the Building. This object, however, would be
more certainly accomplished, by the erection of leading lights, upon
the Island of May and Mainland of Fife. But these, with other plans
which have been under the writer’s consideration, would necessarily
be attended with a great additional expence, which, in the present
instance, it is not thought advisable to incur.
[Sidenote: Expence of the Carr Rock works.]
Owing to the necessarily slow progress of the operations at the Carr
Rock, the works were carried on partly in connection with the new
Light-house on the Isle of May, and with the assistance of the ordinary
shipping of the Light-house establishment. This renders it difficult to
give a distinct estimate of the expence of the Beacon; but in so far as
it can be collected, it may be stated, including all charges, at about
L. 5000.
_Stations on the Coast of Scotland, where Light-houses have been
suggested as still necessary._
Having now taken notice of the works of the Light-house Board, so far
as they have been completed, up to and including part of the year 1823.
We may farther advert to the Light-house on the Rhins of Ilay, founded
on the 23d of August last. The Northern Light-houses accordingly amount
to seventeen, erected at fourteen stations; and besides these, there
are the Beacons of North Ronaldsay and the Carr Rock. The position of
these establishments has not been chosen in regard to their respective
distances from each other, but agreeably to the commercial importance
and dangers connected with particular parts of the coast. Six of them,
for instance, are on the Friths of Forth and Clyde, at not more than
from 20 to 25 miles apart; while Kinnaird-Head, on the east coast,
is about 72 miles from the Bell Rock, and 70 miles from the Pentland
Skerries. The Light-house upon Island Glass, is about 130 miles
south-west from the Pentland Skerries, and 120 miles northward from the
Rhins of Ilay, being a stretch of 250 miles of coast, with only one
Light-house intervening. It must therefore be obvious, that fourteen
Light-house stations, which include two on the Isle of Man, are too
few for the Scottish coast, rendered formidable and dangerous, by a
vast number of islands and sunken rocks. The Commissioners have still,
accordingly, a wide field of operations before them, which they are
gradually occupying, as their funds will admit, and as the demands of
navigation and commercial intercourse seem to require. In the Appendix,
No. I. notice is taken of the most prominent points of land on the
coast, which have been brought under consideration as fit Stations for
additional Light-houses; and of these, one at Buchan-Ness, on the east
coast, has already been fixed on by the Board.
_Constitution of the Board, and System of Management._
[Sidenote: Constitution of the Board.]
The affairs of the Northern Light-houses are managed by the
Commissioners named in the different acts already noticed; but the
direction of the whole concerns of the establishment almost entirely
devolves upon the Commissioners resident in Edinburgh, viz. The
Lord Advocate and Solicitor-General, the Lord Provost, and Senior
Magistrate of that City, and the different Sheriffs, Commissioners _ex
officio_, who attend the Courts of Law. They hold frequent meetings,
and bestow their time and labour without any salary or remuneration
whatever. At their Meetings, all matters falling under the economy,
and connected with the arrangement of the Light-houses, are regulated;
full powers being conferred upon them as a Board to erect and maintain
such additional Light-houses as they shall deem necessary; so that
the system in this respect will at no very distant period be rendered
complete.
[Sidenote: Rate of Duties.]
By the Statutes, the general rate of duty upon British ships is 2d.
_per_ register ton for passing _one_ of, or _all_ the Scottish Lights;
together with certain local duties of ½d. per ton, connected with
the Lights of May and Inchkeith; and for vessels which only pass the
Lights on the Isle of Man, _one farthing_ per ton is the sole duty.
Foreign ships in all cases pay double rates. These duties are exigible
at all the Ports in the United Kingdom, and are remitted to the General
Collector at Edinburgh, at the end of three or six months, according to
the extent of the respective collections.
The application of the Funds, and disposal of the Surplus, are fixed by
the Acts; which also require, that an account of the moneys received
and expended by the Board, be annually presented to the Lords of the
Treasury, the Convention of Royal Burghs of Scotland, and that two
copies be sent to the Board of Customs at Edinburgh, to be laid before
both Houses of Parliament.
[Sidenote: Expence of Management, &c.]
The only permanent expence of management in the way of remuneration to
the Officers of the Board, are a salary of L. 500 to the Engineer; L.
380 to the Clerk, who is also Cashier, and a fee of 50 guineas to the
Auditor or Accountant. The revenue of the Board may be stated at about
L. 24,000 yearly; and as the department of the Engineer is unconnected
with the financial arrangements, this fund is, in fact, managed for
about L. 432, 10s. per annum.
As to the practical arrangement, the Engineer visits all the
Light-houses annually, and Reports to the Board upon the various works
and operations connected with the different Light-houses,--the conduct
of the light-keepers,--and also upon the stores and supplies required
for the ensuing year,--and these, when approven of, are authorised and
ordered by the Commissioners. All accounts for supplies are laid before
the Board, and paid twice in the year.
At each ordinary Light-house, a Principal and an Assistant Light-keeper
are appointed, whose salaries are respectively L. 45, and L. 35 _per
annum_, besides a piece of ground, not less than 10 acres, with fuel,
a suit of uniform clothes every three years, and some other small
perquisites. At the Bell Rock, there are four light-keepers, three of
whom are always at the Light-house, while one is, by rotation, on shore
at the establishment at Arbroath for the families of the light-keepers.
Their salaries are respectively L. 63, and L. 57, 15s., and for each of
the two ordinary Assistants L. 52, 10s. with provisions for themselves
while at the Rock, and apartments for their families ashore. The
light-keepers act under certain Instructions, and make Monthly Returns
to the Engineer’s office, copies of which will be found under Appendix,
No. I.
[Sidenote: Shipping of the Establishment.]
The shipping belonging to the Light-house service, besides attending
boats, for visiting Light-houses on insulated situations, consists
of a vessel of about 50 tons register, which is chiefly employed in
attending the Bell Rock, to supply the house with necessaries, and
relieve the light-keepers in their turn. For general service, another
vessel of 140 tons is kept, which carries oil and other stores for
the lights, together with fuel and necessaries, for the use of the
light-keepers, and artificers, with their implements and apparatus,
for making repairs at the different stations. The Engineer makes his
annual voyage of inspection in this vessel, which is provided with
cabins suitable for the reception of such of the Commissioners as may
occasionally visit the Light-houses.
[Sidenote: Voyages of Inspection.]
This duty has been undertaken by various members of the Board. In
the Summer of 1814 a Committee, consisting of Mr Hamilton, Sheriff
of Lanarkshire, Mr Erskine, Sheriff of Orkney, and Mr Duff, Sheriff
of Forfarshire, with the Engineer, made a voyage to inspect the
different Light-houses already erected, as also the most prominent of
the stations on the coast, suggested for the erection of Additional
Lights. They sailed from Leith in the Yacht, having for their companion
Mr Walter Scott, and having visited the Light-houses on the Isle of
May and Bell Rock, with the establishment at Arbroath, and that upon
Kinnaird-Head in Aberdeenshire, they next landed at Sumburgh-head in
Shetland, on which a Light-house has since been erected. Returning
southward, they visited the Light-houses on the Start Point of Sanday,
and the Pentland Skerries in Orkney. Then steering westward, they
landed at Cape Wrath, one of the projected Stations for a Light-house.
They next touched at the Light-house on Island-Glass, one of the Harris
Isles. From thence they proceeded and landed upon the Rock called
Skerryvore, lying off the Island of Tiree, and were satisfied of the
practicability of erecting a Light-house there. Having visited the
Light-house on Ennistrahul, on the coast of Donegal, one of the Irish
Lights, and inspected their own establishments on the Mull of Kantire
and Isle of Pladda, the Commissioners landed at Greenock, after a
voyage of nearly seven weeks.
In July 1815, Mr Hamilton and Mr Duff, accompanied by the writer,
sailed in the Yacht from the Troon for Liverpool, where they were
joined by Sir William Rae; and after having had a meeting with Mr
Gladstone on the subject of the Lights on _Man_, they sailed thither,
and fixed on the Stations for the Lights on that Island, and on the
Calf. They then proceeded to Dublin, and communicated with the Irish
Board for the affairs of Light-houses, regarding certain arrangements
for the advancement of the public service committed respectively to
their charge. Mr Crossthwaite, and other Members of the Irish Board,
accompanied them to the Light-house upon Houth: and having visited
the Tuskar Light-house, situate on an insulated rock off the coast of
Wexford, they bent their course to Holyhead, landed at the Light-house
on the South Stack; and on their return surveyed the operations at the
Light-house at Corsewall in Galloway then building, and having visited
Pladda, landed at Greenock.
In the Summer of 1818, Messrs Hamilton and Duff, with the writer,
sailed from Clyde, and inspected the Light-houses of Corsewall and
on the Isle and Calf of Man. The Yacht being then bound through the
British Channel, they availed themselves of the opportunity to visit
some of the English Light-houses, particularly the Smalls, off St
David’s Head, the Longships, off the Land’s End, the Edystone, the
Caskets off Alderney, Hurst Castle, Dungeness, and the North Foreland.
By these voyages, the Commissioners greatly enlarged their knowledge of
the important concerns entrusted to their charge. Some of them had thus
seen and examined all the Light-houses already established on the coast
of Scotland, and most of the Sites in contemplation for new erections
on the northern parts of the Island.
ACCOUNT
OF THE
BELL ROCK LIGHT HOUSE
[Illustration:
Drawn by Miss Stevenson.
Engraved by J. Horsburgh.
Pharos loquitur
Far in the bosom of the deep
O’er these wild shelves my watch I keep
A ruddy gem of changeful light
Bound on the dusky brow of Night
The Seaman bids my lustre hail
And scorns to strike his timorous sail
_See page 530._]
BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE.
ACCOUNT
OF THE
BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE.
CHAPTER I.
NAME OF THE ROCK,--SITUATION AND DIMENSIONS,--NATURAL HISTORY,--DEPTH
OF WATER, AND CURRENT OF TIDES.
In the Introduction, I have given an account of the institution of the
Board of Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; of the progress
made in the erection of Light-houses on the coast of Scotland; the
probable future operations of the Board, and the general economy or
management of its affairs. I now come to treat in detail of the Bell
Rock Light-house, as the chief object of this work; and, in the present
chapter, I propose to give the general history, and a description of
this dangerous Rock.
_Name of the Rock._
[Sidenote: Name.]
[Sidenote: Origin of the Name.]
There is perhaps nothing in history more arbitrary, or difficult
to account for, than the origin of proper names, nor, in general,
any research more unsatisfactory, than a prolix inquiry into their
etymology. The charts of the nautical surveyor are the proper records
for the names of places upon the sea-coast; but such maps are
comparatively of late invention. The first sea-chart which we hear
of in England, was that brought from Spain in 1489, by Bartholomew
Columbus, to illustrate his brother’s theory of the discovery of
America; and the earliest, applicable to the coast of Scotland, is the
chart of the voyage of James V., from the Firth of Forth, by the Orkney
and Western Islands, to the Firth of Clyde and coast of Galloway, in
the year 1540. This map was published at Paris by Nicolay D’Arfiville,
Seigneur Du d’Aulphinois, &c. chief Cosmographer to the King of France,
in 1583; and afterwards in Edinburgh, in the year 1688, by John Adair,
F. R. S., Geographer for Scotland.
[Sidenote: Inch Cape.]
The French writer gives a hydrographical description of the coast of
Scotland, in relation to the Royal voyage, from Leith to the Solway
Firth , noticing the distances of places, the tides, and the rocks and
sand-banks, or “_dangers_,” as they are more generally termed, which
it was necessary to avoid. In adverting to the course from Leith by
the east coast to Duncansby-Head, in Caithness, he observes, “Entre
Finismes [Fifeness] et la pointe nommé Redde, xii mille à l’est sud-est
du costé de la dicte pointe Redde, gist un danger appelé _Inchkope_.”
This is unquestionably the Bell Rock, the inch or island of the _Cape_,
and with a reference to the Redhead, to the north of Aberbrothock,
the highest and most remarkable point on that coast. In Adair’s
collection of nautical charts, and descriptive account of the eastern
coast of Scotland, published in 1703, the Bell Rock is indifferently
termed _Scape_ and _Cape_; and the fishermen on the shores of Angus
uniformly call it the _Cape Rock_. In some old charts, particularly
by the Dutch, whose name for a headland is _kappe_, it is also called
_skape_ and _scaup_. It does not, however, seem that any inference
can be drawn from these various appellations; and, although it were
to be conjectured, that the Inch Cape was, at a very remote period,
permanently above water, and in all respects an island, the most
rational hypothesis would still remain, and be indeed confirmed, that
this name was given it on account of the relation it bore, especially
in situation, to the cape of Redhead.
[Sidenote: Bell Rock.]
It is perhaps more difficult to assign the true origin for the modern
term of _Bell Rock_, by which this dangerous reef is now universally
known. There is a tradition, that an Abbot of Aberbrothock directed a
bell to be erected on the Rock, so connected with a floating apparatus,
that the winds and sea acted upon it, and tolled the bell, thus
giving warning to the mariner of his approaching danger. Upon similar
authority, the bell, it is said, was afterwards carried off by pirates,
and the humane intentions of the Abbot thus frustrated. This story has,
by a modern poet, been made the subject of the ballad of “Sir Ralf the
Rover,” which, for the reader’s amusement, is inserted in the Appendix,
No. II.
[Sidenote: Erection of a Bell.]
Of the erection of the Bell, and of the machinery by which it was rung,
if such ever existed, it would have been interesting to have had
some authentic evidence. But, though a search has been made in the
chartularies of the Abbey of Aberbrothock, preserved in the Advocates’
Library, and containing a variety of grants and other deeds, from the
middle of the 13th to the end of the 15th century, no trace is to be
found of the Bell Rock, or any thing connected with it. The erection
of the bell is not, however, an improbable conjecture; and we can
more readily suppose that an attempt of that kind was made, than that
it had been intentionally removed, which in no measure accords with
the respect and veneration entertained by seamen of all classes for
land-marks; more especially, as there seems to be no difficulty in
accounting for the disappearance of such an apparatus unprotected,
as it must have been, from the raging element of the sea. It is not
therefore unlikely, that the popular appellation by which this Rock
has more recently been known, may owe its origin to the tradition of
the Abbot’s humanity and public spirit; and when we consider that the
churchmen of those days were well acquainted with the history of the
celebrated Pharos of Alexandria, and may have heard of the fire-towers
and sea-marks, which Mr Bryant, in his Mythology, conjectures existed
in very remote times, it is natural to suppose, that these learned
persons had, at a pretty early period, turned their attention to the
subject, and had attempted, in the mode which has been figured, to
point out and guard against the danger.
Amidst these speculations, it must not, however, be overlooked, that
this Rock may have acquired its present name from its shape or figure;
for at the commencement of the author’s operations, he remarked, that
the site of the light-house, at some distance, had much the appearance
of a large bell; and although this part was not more than four feet
above the general level of the Rock, yet by supposing it to have
been the nucleus of a larger mass, in the central part of the Rock,
gradually wasted away by the washing of the sea, it may at a former
period, from that resemblance, have obtained the appellation it now
retains.
_Situation and Dimensions._
[Sidenote: Situation.]
The Bell Rock may be described as a most dangerous sunken reef, situate
on the northern side of the entrance of the great estuary or arm of
the sea called the Firth of Forth; and as such directly affecting the
safety of all vessels entering the Firth of Tay. Its position, as will
be seen from the Charts, Nos. 3. and 4., which accompany this work, is
in west longitude from Greenwich 2° 22´, and in north latitude 56°
29´. From St Abb’s Head in Berwickshire, it bears north by east per
compass, (variation 27° 20´ west in the year 1819), and is distant
about 30 miles; from the Island of May north-east 17 miles; and from
the promontory or cape called the Redhead, in Forfarshire, it bears
south-west, and is distant 14 miles. But in easterly directions no land
intervenes between the Bell Rock and the coasts of Norway, Denmark,
Germany and Holland.
[Sidenote: Dimensions.]
The dimensions of the north-eastern or higher compartment of the
Rock where the light-house is built, are about 427 feet in length,
and 230 feet in breadth. Besides these dimensions, the south-western
reef extends about 1000 feet from the main rock. The greatest length,
therefore, of the Bell Rock, which may be said to be dangerous to
shipping, is about 1427 feet, and its greatest breadth is about 300
feet; but the outline or margin of the Rock is quite irregular, as will
be seen from the Plates marked Nos. 5. and 6.
_Natural History._
[Sidenote: Mineralogy.]
The Bell Rock consists of sandstone of a reddish colour, which in
some places contains whitish and greenish spots of circular and oval
forms, irregularly interspersed through the rock. It is of a fine
granular texture, containing minute specks of mica. It is very hard,
and, in the language of the artificer, is tough, and rather difficult
to work; and in some parts it is found to rise in masses having a
conchoidal fracture. Its angle of inclination with the horizon is
about 15 degrees, dipping towards the south-east. The strata are thick
and unequal, strongly cemented together, and running in the direction
of north-east and south-west. The surface of the Rock is rugged, and
full of cavities, so that walking upon it becomes rather difficult. A
longitudinal section of the Bell Rock, taken in a north-easterly and
south-westerly direction, may be described as consisting of a higher
and a lower level. The cross section, taken in a south-easterly and
north-westerly direction, exhibits the abrupt and pointed terminations
of the strata, though it appears level when seen from a distance.
[Sidenote: Wasting effects of the Sea.]
[Sidenote: Natural History.]
It would be a speculation highly interesting to the geologist, to
inquire into the probable early history of the Bell Rock, and the
changes produced on it by the wasting effects of the waters of the
ocean. When we consider the similarity of the red sandstone of this
rock with the Redhead of Forfarshire, and opposite shores of Berwick in
the neighbourhood of Dunglass, and take into view that there is a ridge
or shallower part of the bottom, which extends a considerable way from
the Bell Rock in the direction of these shores, we may infer, that the
Rock itself had extended at one time much further. We are also enabled
to trace the same formation, penetrating to the northward through
Ross-shire, and quite across the kingdom, in a southern direction,
to Cumberland. At a period indefinitely remote in the history of
the globe, we may therefore imagine that one continuous bed of red
sandstone had stretched across the Firth , forming a barrier by which
the great collection of waters of the Forth and Tay have been pent up.
[Sidenote: Proofs of the Sea having occupied a higher level.]
In support of this opinion, we have the most unequivocal proofs of the
waters of those friths having formerly occupied a much higher level.
Of these we may notice the general appearance of their water-worn
shores, and a bed of oyster-shells near Borrowstounness, which has been
traced to the extent of three miles in length, and about two fathoms
in thickness, lying in their natural state, but now upwards of 35 feet
above the present level of the sea. Under these circumstances, and
many others which might be adduced, it is not improbable that the Bell
Rock has at one time been connected with the opposite coasts; and when
we consider the general waste of the land, which is apparent in all
directions from the impulse of the sea, it may at least be concluded,
that at no very remote period, the Rock has been of much greater
superficial extent, and above the level of the highest tides. Nor need
we be surprised that such changes upon this remote and insulated spot
should have been lost sight of, owing to their gradual and almost
imperceptible effects, compared with the short period of the life of
man, and in absence of all testimony excepting that which is oral.
[Sidenote: Plants.]
With regard to the marine Plants which grow upon the Bell Rock, we
may observe that the lower parts of it are covered with the stronger
or larger sorts, as the great tangle, _Fucus digitatus_, the roots of
which rarely appear above the water, while it is seen at the depth of
several fathoms, growing with the greatest luxuriance, and has often
been observed by the author from a boat in fine weather, as a means
for ascertaining, by the direction of the leaf, the changes of the
currents of the tide at the bottom. The Badderlock, or Henware, _Fucus
esculentus_, is found only on the north-eastern and south-eastern
extremities of the Rock, growing at low water-mark of spring-tides,
and seems to prefer the most rapid currents of the sea, and places
where the heaviest breach takes place. In such situations it grows
in great abundance at the Bell Rock, where it has been measured of
the length of eighteen feet, and of proportionally increased breadth.
Perhaps some of these plants are of considerable age; but at the
works of the Carr Rock Beacon, off Fifeness, it was found that the
growth of the badderlock was so very rapid, that the plant attained to
the length of seven feet upon the new building, in the course of the
winter and spring months. The higher parts of the Bell Rock abound with
the smaller fuci, as _Fucus mamillosus_, and _F. palmatus_, or common
dulse. _F. lycopodiodes_, _alatus_, and _coccineus_, are found on the
older stalks of the great tangle, and _F. subfuscus_ and _confervoides_
occupy the smaller pools. In some places, the rocks are rendered
slippery with _Ulva compressa_ and _umbilicalis_; and the higher parts
of the Rock, and the basement or lower courses of the light-house, are
so covered with _Conferva rupestris_, as to produce the appearance of a
sward of grass.
[Sidenote: Animals.]
Of the feathered tribe of animals at the Bell Rock, we notice the
shag, cormorant, and herring-gull, which sometimes rest upon the Rock
when in search of codlings and other small fishes. It also formed the
resting-place of numerous seals at the commencement of the operations
of the Light-house, but these amphibious animals, as well as the
birds, have now almost entirely left it. The common crab and lobster
are sometimes found here in the crevices of the rock. The _Lepas
balanoides_, or acorn-shell, the common limpet, mussels of a small
size, and the white _buckey_ or _Buccinum lapillus_, abound on the
rock. The _Actinia crassicornis_, _Asterias glacialis_ and _oculata_,
are common. A minute crustaceous insect, called, by Dr Leach, _Limnoria
terebrans_ (_Lin. Trans_, vol. XI. p. 371.), appeared in great numbers
in the submersed wood work of the temporary erections on the Rock.
[Sidenote: Insect destructive to Timber.]
So destructive to timber is this small insect, that the Norway logs,
laid down to support the temporary railways in 1807, when lifted in
1811, were found to have been reduced by its ravages from 10 inches
square to 7 inches, or at the rate of about an inch in the year. The
author having had occasion afterwards to examine the timber-bridge of
Montrose, found the attacks of this insect upon the wooden piers to be
so alarming as to endanger that fabric; and after many trials for the
preservation of timber in such situations, the Trustees were ultimately
induced to cover the upright beams with sheet-copper. Upon another
occasion, when the author was called to inspect the Crinan Canal, he
found the gates of the sea-locks so destroyed, chiefly by this little
animal, that the locks lost seven feet of their depth of water in
the course of the night. It is further remarked, that the deserted
cavities, formed by the perforations of the Limnoria, frequently
become the residence of larger marine insects, belonging to the Linnæan
genus Oniscus.
[Sidenote: Experiments with pieces of timber trenailed to the Rock.]
In the year 1814, with a view to experiment on the effects of these
destructive vermes, I fixed down specimens of teak-wood, oak, black
birch, Memel and Norway fir timber, on the Bell Rock. The only specimen
which remained imperforate till 1820, was the teak-wood. The rest were
almost entirely destroyed in the course of two or three years. This
may be regarded as a matter of some importance, in a national point of
view, in directing the employment of teak-wood for the sea-lock gates
of canals and for ship-timbers. From the excellency of the situation
of the Bell Rock for such experiments, I have caused another set of
timbers to be trenailed to the rock, in a situation where, like the
former, they are occasionally uncovered by the water. These last
pieces of timber were laid down in the month of October 1821. They are
eighteen in number, each measuring 5 inches square, and 30 inches in
length; and are of the following kinds, viz. British and American oaks
and firs, Memel fir, Scotch elm, beech, sycamore, larch, teak-wood,
mahogany, bullet-tree, locust-wood, and blue gum-wood from Van Dieman’s
Land.
[Sidenote: Attempt to plant Muscles on the Rock.]
When the workmen first landed upon the Bell Rock, limpets of a very
large size were common, but were soon picked up for bait. As the
limpets disappeared, we endeavoured to plant a colony of muscles, from
beds at the mouth of the river Eden, of a larger kind than those which
seem to be natural to the rock. These larger muscles were likely to
have been useful to the workmen, and might have been especially so to
the light-keepers, the future inhabitants of the rock, to whom that
delicate fish would have afforded a fresh meal, as well as a better
bait than the limpet; but the muscles were soon observed to open and
die in great numbers. For some time this was ascribed to the effects
of the violent surge of the sea, but the _Buccinum lapillus_ having
greatly increased, it was ascertained that it had proved a successful
enemy to the muscle. The _buccinum_ being furnished with a proboscis
capable of boring, was observed to perforate a small hole in the shell,
and thus to suck out the finer parts of the body of the muscle; the
valves of course opened, and the remainder of the fish was washed away
by the sea. The perforated hole is generally upon the thinnest part of
the shell, and is perfectly circular, of a _champhered_ form, being
wider towards the outward side, and so perfectly smooth and regular,
as to have all the appearance of the most beautiful work of an expert
artist. It became a matter extremely desirable to preserve the muscle,
and it seemed practicable to extirpate the _buccinum_. But after we had
picked up and destroyed many barrels of them, their extirpation was at
length given up as a hopeless task. The muscles were thus abandoned
as their prey: and in the course of the third year’s operations, so
successful had the ravages of the _buccinum_ been, that not a single
muscle of a large size was to be found upon the rock; and even the
small kind which breed there, are now chiefly confined to the extreme
points of the rock, where it would seem their enemy cannot so easily
follow them.
[Sidenote: Habits of Fishes.]
In speaking of the habits of fishes, it deserves notice that they have
their particular grounds and shores which they frequent; for while the
vessels attending the works at the Bell Rock were stationed there,
different kinds of fish were caught as the depth and bottom varied.
About high-water, and especially during ebb-tide, when the sea is
smooth on the rock, the _Podley_ (chiefly the fry of the coal-fish,
but including also the young of the _Gadus virens_) is so numerous,
as almost entirely to cover it from view. Near the rock, the small
red cod is often found in abundance: at some distance, as the bottom,
which is covered with marine plants near the rock, alters to coral,
gravel, shell sand, fine sand and mud, all of which occur in a range
of depths from 4 to 23 fathoms towards the north, different kinds of
fish are found; first, the codling, which ceases to be wholly red,
but becomes only speckled with reddish spots; then, upon the finer or
mud grounds in the track of the tides of the Firth of Tay, whiting,
haddock, flounder, and occasionally the sole. On the southern side of
the rock, where the water deepens to 35 fathoms, the large white cod,
in company with ling, conger-eel, halibut, skate, thornback, plaise,
turbot, wolf-fish and large coal-fish are found. The dog-fish appears
to be very general, and seems to prey chiefly upon the haddock and cod.
The mackerel and gurnard are found together near the surface, and do
not seem to be confined to particular grounds, but occur wherever the
water is of a considerable depth. Herrings are found in the bays of the
opposite shores in great abundance at the fishing season, when they
are understood to be migrating towards the south. It has often been
observed, in the course of the Bell Rock operations, that, during the
cold weather of spring and autumn, and even at all seasons, in stormy
weather, when the sea is much agitated by wind, the fishes disappear
entirely from the vicinity of the rock, probably retreating into much
deeper water, from which they do not seem to return, until a change of
weather has taken place; so much was this attended to by the seamen
employed on this service, that they frequently prognosticated and
judged of the weather from this habit of the fishes, as well as from
the appearances of the sky.
_Depth of Water._
[Sidenote: Depth of Water.]
[Sidenote: Depth of Water upon the Bell Rock.]
At the time of high-water of spring-tides, the south-western reef is
about 16 feet, or nearly the whole rise of the tide, under the surface
of the water; while the part of the rock on which the light-house is
built, is about 12 feet below high water-mark of spring-tides: At
low-water of neap-tides, hardly any part of the rock is visible: But at
low-water of spring-tides, the _general level_ of the north-eastern end
where the light-house is built, is about four feet perpendicular above
the level of the sea, though particular points measure six or even
seven feet in height above the low-water mark of spring-tides.
[Sidenote: Depth at the distance of 100 yards, and upwards from it.]
At the distance of about 100 yards from the rock in all directions,
excepting on the south-western reef, there is a depth of water varying
from two to three fathoms at low water of spring tides. On the
north-west side, or in the direction of the shores of Forfar and Fife,
the greatest depth is 23 fathoms; but on the south-eastern or seaward
side, in the direction of the _dip_ or inclination of the strata, the
water deepens more suddenly to 35 fathoms; in the same direction from
the rock, however, the soundings again become less, being only 22
fathoms upon Mars Bank, distant about 33 miles; this bank appears to be
a deposition formed by the joint operation of the waters of the Friths
of Forth and Tay, influenced by the great tidal wave of the German
Ocean. It may here be noticed as a fact connected with the depth of the
German Ocean, that at Queensferry passage, in the Firth of Forth, the
depth of the water is about 35 fathoms, while the greatest depth of the
sea across to Denmark, does not exceed 45 fathoms. The depths of the
German Ocean will be seen, by inspecting Chart No. 3., where sectional
lines are delineated between various points of Great Britain and the
opposite Continent, on which the reader will see the relative depths
marked by shaded lines, in a new and it is hoped a perspicuous manner.
_Current of the Tides._
[Sidenote: Currents of the Tide.]
[Sidenote: Tides at the Bell Rock.]
The tides at the Bell Rock, are observed to follow the same laws as
on the opposite shores of the Firth of Forth. The currents along the
coast take their direction from the figure of the land, and, in their
course, they are therefore occasionally deflected from, and inclined
towards it. At the Bell Rock the flood-tide sets south-west, and the
ebb-tide north-east, being nearly in the direction of the shores of
Forfar and Kincardine. The velocity of the water in spring-tides, or
when the sun and moon are in conjunction, and in opposition, is about
three miles _per_ hour, but in neap-tides, or at the quadratures of the
moon, the current is only at the rate of about one mile _per_ hour.
On the days of new and full moon it is high-water _upon_ the Bell
Rock at half past one o’clock, being about the same periodic time as
at the harbour of Arbroath, or nearest point of the mainland. In the
ordinary state of the weather, the perpendicular rise and fall of the
sea at the Bell Rock, in spring-tides, is 15 feet, and in neap-tides,
8 feet; but so much depends upon the direction of a prevailing tract
of winds, that the tides are often found to vary from 1 to 3 feet
above and below these numbers. This irregularity in the tides of the
German Ocean and its subsidiary friths or inland seas will be easily
accounted for, by considering the effect of westerly winds passing
for a length of time over the Atlantic, which must naturally force an
undue quantity of water from thence into the entrance of the North Sea,
between the coasts of Scotland and Norway; while the Strait of Dover,
to the southward, from the same cause, is gorged by the surplus waters
of the British Channel flowing in an opposite direction, and checking
the tide of the German Ocean. When the winds blow from southerly and
easterly directions, the reverse of this happens, and the waters are
then proportionally low.
[Sidenote: In and Off shore Currents.]
A curious anomaly connected with the flowing and ebbing of the sea, in
the early part of each tide, is observable in the contrary currents
which take place along the shore, and at a distance from it. For
example, the flood-tide begins to flow in many situations two or even
three hours sooner on the shore than at the distance of from one
mile to four miles in the offing. The same thing also happens with
regard to the ebb-tide, which begins to fall and run in a contrary
direction to the flood-tide, two or three hours sooner on the shore
than at a distance. These effects are very different from the state of
things three or four leagues from the land, or in the open sea, where
the lateral motion of the tide-waters is scarcely sensible. That an
extensive tract of coast should produce changes on the current of the
tides, is perhaps what we should expect; but it is somewhat curious
to find the same appearances connected with small islets, and, as in
the case of the Bell Rock, even with an insulated reef, situate at the
distance of 12 miles from the land, and sunk to the depth of from 2 to
3 fathoms under the surface of high-water. So strikingly observable is
this, that the tide begins to ebb about two hours sooner on the Bell
Rock than at the short distance of one mile from it. In the course of
the light-house operations this was rendered sufficiently obvious, by
the swinging round of the several vessels at their moorings according
to the flood and ebb tides. For example, the Floating Light-ship was
moored about three miles in a north-west direction from the Bell
Rock, and the moorings of the Tender and two Stone Lighters, were
respectively laid down at the distance of ¾ and ½ mile from it, as
will be seen from Plate V. Now, these vessels were all found to swing
to the tide at periods proportional to their distance from the rock.
Although it may, therefore, seem strange, that this comparatively small
object should affect the tides in its vicinity in a manner similar to
the shores of an extensive coast; yet, as the rock shelves outwards,
with an extensive base, especially on the northern side, it must impede
the under current of the tide, and indeed forcibly proves the existence
of such under currents.
[Sidenote: Not accounted for by Writers on the subject.]
To account for these in and off shore tides, or central and marginal
streams, would be interesting. But to what cause shall we ascribe
them? Sir Isaac Newton, and the other eminent philosophers who have
followed that great man in considering the theory of the tides, confine
their attention chiefly to an explanation of the influences of the
sun and moon, and the laws of gravitation, in affecting the waters
of the ocean, leaving it to the result of experience and observation
to account for such anomalies as those to which we now allude. It is
noticed by Adair, Mackenzie, and other nautical surveyors, that the
tides run longer upon the shore than in the offing, and the advantage
of working a ship with _in and off shore tides_, is familiar to every
mariner. The existence of these opposite currents was also known to the
author, prior to the commencement of the Bell Rock works, but they had
not struck him so forcibly till that period. For here, even after the
flood-tide had overflowed the rock, and put a stop to the operations,
the boats in carrying the artificers on board of the Tender, had still
to row against the current of a strong ebb-tide.
[Sidenote: Currents along Shore considered as Eddy-tides.]
It would be foreign to this work to enter into the theory of the tides
generally; all, therefore, that is here proposed, is to endeavour to
account for these in and off shore currents. In doing this, however,
it will be necessary to observe, that the _great wave_ or “theoretical
tide,” as it has been termed by the late eminent Professor Robison,
is produced by the united attraction of the sun and moon, which,
between the Tropics, has been calculated by philosophers to raise
the water from 8 to 14 feet perpendicularly. It is observable, that
the attractions of these heavenly bodies elevate the parts of the
ocean to which they are vertical, without having any direct tendency
to progressive or lateral motion. The currents along our coasts,
may therefore be considered merely as Eddy-tides, occasioned by the
interposition of the land, which obstructs the undulating motion
incident to the rise or fall of a fluid. In this manner the land
may be said to displace a portion of the tidal waters which have
been elevated above the medium level of the sea; and were it not for
such obstruction, the great waves of the tide might be supposed to
undulate indefinitely over the expanse of the ocean. To compare small
things with great, these effects may be conceived as in some degree
exemplified, by the disturbing effect of a vessel passing along a
navigable canal, or the undulations which are observable in the _wake_
of a ship or wheels of a steam-boat in motion on a smooth sea.
[Sidenote: Progress of the Great Waves of the Tides.]
The great wave which supplies the _British tides_, appears to be
propagated between the coast of Labrador and Greenland, on the one
hand, and the European shores on the other; and this great wave seems
to be divided into two lesser waves. One of these flows between Ireland
and the coast of France, into the British and St George’s Channels;
while the other enters by the North Sea into the German Ocean; and in
its course from north to south, supplies all the friths, rivers, and
bays connected with it, invariably in the form of _In and Off shore
tides_, which are every where observable along the margin of this great
basin. This northern wave is found to occupy about 12 hours in flowing
southward from the 58th to the 52d degree of latitude, or from the
Orkney Islands to the numerous Sand-banks which pervade and encumber
the apex of the German Ocean, where the currents become extremely
desultory and irregular. The coast of the British Isles, accordingly,
may be said to, displace a portion of this northern wave, and thus to
produce the irregularities which we are endeavouring to account for.
[Sidenote: Progressive periods of High-Water in the Firth of Forth.]
At present, we shall confine our attention to the tides of the Firth
of Forth. Here, as on other parts of the coast, the tidal waters have
a tendency to flow towards the shores and higher parts of the Forth,
till the instant of high-water upon the shore, when the tide begins
to ebb, and run in a contrary direction. A central stream, however,
continues to run with unabated force, as flood-tide, during two or even
three hours longer, as before noticed, according to the situation and
local circumstances of the coast. It appears, from a comparison of the
several periods of high-water on the shores of the Firth of Forth, as
nearly as some of them could be ascertained, that the precise time of
high-water becomes later and later in the same tide, as we proceed
westward; at the Bell Rock, for example, it is high-water on the days
of new and full moon, as before noticed, at ½ past 1 o’clock; at the
Carr Rock, at ¾ past 1; at Elie, still further up the Firth , at 2;
Kinghornness, at ¼ past 2; Queensferry, at ¾ past 2; and at Alloa,
at ¾ past 3 o’clock. The off-shore stream of the tide continues to
flow proportionally longer till it has supplied the higher parts of
this estuary with its portion of tidal waters; and in like manner, the
central stream of ebb-tide continues its course till these waters are
again run off.
[Sidenote: Currents at the Mouth of the Dee and other Rivers.]
In many points, it is found, that the operation of the tidal waters
of extensive arms of the sea, bears a close resemblance to what is
observable upon the small scale in the currents of rivers, especially
at their junction with the ocean. An interesting example of this occurs
on the river Dee, which falls rapidly into the harbour of Aberdeen.
Here the author having occasion to make some observations on the tides
in the summer of 1812, stationed several assistants at low-water mark,
between the entrance of the harbour and the bridge, about two miles up
the river. The waters of the Dee, even at the entrance of the harbour,
have almost a constant current seaward, notwithstanding the opposite
direction of the flood-tide of the Ocean. On the occasion alluded
to, one of his assistants, a very intelligent shipmaster, continued
at his post while the water flowed up to his middle; and, when
accosted about his situation, he significantly observed, “That it was
rather extraordinary, as the stream had never ceased to indicate the
continuance of an ebb-tide, while the water was still rising upon his
body.”
[Sidenote: Water salt at bottom and fresh at top.]
In connection with these observations on the tides, some experiments
were also made with an instrument adapted for lifting water from
considerable depths, without the possibility of its intermingling
with the surface water. By means of this instrument, the water at the
bottom of the Dee, at Aberdeen, was found to be salt, while that at
the surface was quite fresh. These streams of fresh and salt water run
in distinct currents, and in contrary directions, the salt water, from
its greater specific gravity, flowing at the bottom of the river, and
fluctuating with the level of the ocean, while the fresh water is
actually lifted upwards, and continues all the while to flow seaward
on the surface of the salt water. Towards the point of high-water,
however, the flood-tide gains strength on the margin of the basin of
the harbour, where the water becomes salt, and forms an eddy-tide
in a contrary direction to the central stream, which is observed
still to run toward the sea. Having made similar observations on the
waters of the Thames, the Garonne, and other rivers, with nearly the
same results, after making allowance for the more level state of the
country, in the track of these great streams,--it is concluded, that
the currents at the embouchure of rivers bear a strong resemblance to
the operation of the in and off shore tides of the ocean.
[Sidenote: Phenomena of in and off shore Tides accounted for.]
We further observe, that the great wave of the German Ocean produces
its tides in regular succession, and at stated periods, as it moves
from north to south; but the tides of the more inland seas are subject
to many irregularities, both in their periodic times, and in the
direction of their currents. Let us suppose, then, that we have arrived
at the instant of high-water on the shores at the entrance of the Firth
of Forth, and that the tidal waters are then moving in a body, and
with a certain pressure, towards the higher parts of the Firth , and
even affecting the river above the bridge of Stirling. We find, that
at the entrance of this estuary, on the days of new and full moon, it
is high-water at a quarter past one o’clock; but at Alloa, situate 70
miles above the Bell Rock, it is not high-water till about two hours
and a half later. The in-shore tidal waters having to encounter the
shelving shores, islands, sunken rocks, and projecting points of land,
which lie in their course up the Firth , acquire lateral as well as
perpendicular motion, and being thus checked in their progress, are
brought sooner to a maximum state than the off-shore stream, which
flows in deeper water, and comparatively free of obstruction, till it
reaches its ultimate limits; though it gradually diminishes in breadth,
till the stream of the _new tide_ gaining strength becomes general;
and the central current, formerly running in a contrary direction, at
length disappears, and takes the course of the new tide.
We would, therefore, be understood to ascribe this anomaly in the
flowing and ebbing of the sea, to the obstruction which the current of
its waters meets not only at the surface or margin, but at the bottom,
which, from the variety of the soundings of the depths, appears to
be as various as the face of the land. A striking proof of this is
afforded at the Bell Rock: on the northern side of which there are 11
fathoms, at the distance of about three quarters of a mile; while, on
the southern side, and at a similar distance, the water deepens to 35
fathoms; so that a perpendicular section of this rock under water forms
a precipitous declivity, such as we are quite accustomed to see on the
land. Now, if we apply this irregular conformation of the bottom of
the sea, to the production of the in and off shore tides, and conceive
that the tidal currents extend their motion to the bottom, it must
be evident, that this obstruction presented to the stream will bring
the tides to a maximum state sooner on the northern side of the rock,
where the water is so much shallower, than on the southern side. This
is also agreeable to observation; for, the tides _upon the Bell Rock_
begin to flow and ebb one hour sooner than at the distance of about
three quarters of a mile from it on the northern side, and about two
hours and a half sooner than at the same distance on the southern
side. The marginal current is thus checked by the shallowness of the
water, and the projecting points of land; while the central stream,
flowing comparatively without obstruction, continues to run till the
most inland creeks are supplied with tidal water; and _vice versâ_, it
continues its stream outwards, till these waters are again run off.
[Sidenote: Progressive times of high-water.]
The progressive times of high-water, at intermediate points between the
Bell Rock and the port of Alloa in the Firth of Forth, appear to follow
the same general law, as the great wave of the German Ocean in its
progress from the Orkneys southward. These observations on the tides of
the Forth apply equally to the Firth and River of Tay, and indeed to
all the tributary streams and arms of the sea which communicate with
the German Ocean, according to their local situations and magnitudes.
[Sidenote: Tides of the Mediterranean and Baltic Seas.]
If due allowance be made for the peculiar situation and circumstances
of the Mediterranean and Baltic seas, it is apprehended, from all
that we have been able to learn of the operation of the currents at
the Strait of Gibraltar, and Sound of the Cattigate, that these seas
are supplied and discharged by in and off shore tides or currents,
under certain modifications, and making due allowance for local
circumstances, in the same manner as on all other parts of the coast.
I have been thus particular relative to the in-shore and off-shore
tides, because they appear in a very puzzling form to the mariner,
while writers on the theory of the tides are almost silent on this
subject.