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How long will it take to feed 25 lbs. of sugar syrup with the
Universal feeder to an average colony of bees in warm weather?
We have never tested the matter, because we deemed feeding a pint or a
quart a day, more desirable in preparing for winter, than more rapid
feeding. If the bags were made to hold about a quart each, and were
filled morning noon and night, or oftener, we could probably get them to
take 25 lbs. in two or three days, in warm weather.
How will molasses hhds. answer for holding honey temporarily? Say,
take one head out—thoroughly clean—heat in the sun—then coat the
inside with hot wax, using a brush for the purpose. When the honey
candies there will be no difficulty in getting it out.
We would advise trying the plan you mention. If you pour in a quantity
of melted wax, and run it all over the inside, it will assuredly make it
hold honey.
How long before you can give us a simple and infallible remedy for
honey crystalizing? Such would be worth a good deal to me as my
whole crop is sold in bottles and will not retail well in a solid
state. For the present, will heating to the boiling point in a
vessel set in water answer? Must the honey be bottled and sealed
while hot or will it do as well when cold?
We find no trouble when we follow directions given heretofore, viz.,
heat your honey almost to a boil, fill the jars full, and seal _at
once_, while hot, just as if it were fruit. If not made hot enough, it
will candy again partially. We think the writers who say that _pure_
honey will _always_ candy, a little hasty.
The frames in my hives rest on a metal rabbet and are not secured at
the bottom. They slide about very easily. When I send off a load of
hives to an apiary, I secure the frames by placing half inch strips
reaching to the bottom board between the combs at each end. It takes
considerable time to fix them. Can you devise anything that will be
less bother and answer equally well?
To be sure if we have frames perfectly _movable_, they must of a
necessity be made stationery when we wish to transport colonies and the
question arises as to whether it is advisable to be bothered with any
arrangement for keeping frames fixed, every time we open a hive, just
because we have once in a great while a case that makes such an
arrangement desirable. In moving our bees to the swamp, see Vol. 1, page
75, we put strips between all of the end bars to the frames, except one
hive which was overlooked, but as this hive had not been opened at all,
the bridge of wax from one comb to the next, kept the frames all in
their places. This is generally sufficient for moving short distances,
where the combs have been in use several years, and where they have not
been taken out for some little time before moving. In shipping bees
considerable distances, we know of no plan better than the sticks.
Something could be added to the hive for this when making, but would it
be advisable, when the hive in many apiaries may not require to be moved
in years? In moving the hives in doors and out, even with Metal Corners
as well as rabbets, no preparation is needed, if the hives are carried
so that the frames do not oscillate by the motion of stepping.
Are Basswood trees ornamental, and of rapid growth? Would they grow
here? Our climate will admit of the culture of the hardier varieties
of grapes.
G. C. MILLER, Mt. Hanley, Annapolis Co., N. S.
The Basswood is a most beautiful tree for ornament, and when it blooms
the perfume extends for a great distance around. It is a very rapid
grower when once started and we believe is perfectly hardy so far as
frost is concerned.
* * * * *
Bees worked on rye flour all through the month of Dec., and most of
the month of Jan., but are housed up now on account of cold. I have
68 colonies mostly in good condition, and think I will have same
number when spring opens. “Long may you wave.”
J. F. MONTGOMERY, Lincoln. Tenn.
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DEAR NOVICE:—I am in favor of deep frames for these reasons:
Experience has convinced me that bees winter better and breed
earlier in deep than in shallow frames. In hollow trees: the natural
home of the bee (and the one they like most) the depth is always
greater than the width. In shallow frames they have to spread out so
thin, or cluster on the cold honey, that it makes it much harder to
keep up the necessary warmth. They seem to think they must have bees
where they have honey; and I have noticed these outside guards often
get chilled and die at their post. The natural place for bees to
store honey, is in the top of their combs; and when they want to
know what they have in store they look for it there; hence we often
see them start from the cluster run over the honey as if estimating
it then pass into the cluster, doubtless to report. When the honey
is directly over them I think they are more fully impressed with its
possessions. A hive 12×12 and 16 inches in depth I believe is the
best size and shape for wintering. Such a hive will allow plenty of
honey in the top and enough empty comb at the bottom for the bees to
cluster on, and keep in a round form which is certainly the best.
But it will be said shallow frames are handier—should we not try to
please our bees as well as ourselves? Again they swing together too
badly—cannot some fixture be made to keep them apart? What says
Novice?
CHAS. WILKINS, Ott, Oregon. Dec. 4th, ’75.
But bees die in hollow trees nearly, if not quite as badly as in hives;
as new swarms generally select these vacated hollow trees, we forget
that not one colony, but a half dozen may have occupied the tree in a
dozen years. We know bees run over the combs, frequently, but we can
hardly accept the idea that they do it exactly for the reason mentioned.
We do not use shallow frames for the reason that they are handier. See
pages 16, Vol. 1, and 29, Vol. 2. If hives and frames are properly made,
they can be made to hang true even when 16 inches deep.
* * * * *
I wish to have all understand that my one dollar Queens are the
poorest. My prices are for a Queen $1.00, for a choice Queen $2.00,
for a tested Queen $5.00.
J. W. HOSMER, Janesville, Minn.
The above was sent us by a subscriber, who had written Mr. H. in regard
to $1.00 Queens. We are alone responsible for Mr. Hosmer’s name
appearing in our list. He wrote us that he had been selling Queens for
$1.00 for some years; shortly after he sent us (we presume by mistake)
75c. the second time. As he made no reply in regard to a query as to how
we should use this, we took the liberty of keeping his name in during
the year.
We need hardly repeat that we never intended dollar Queens, to include
such as had been _tested_ and found _poor_; and we do not wish to
include the names of any who propose to do this, in our list.
* * * * *
I make a hive, 12 frames about 11×13 inches, inside measure, frames,
division boards, entrance blocks, bottom and cover, with one cotton
cloth feeder as you recommend, painted three coats, all complete for
$1.50. If you wish, you can say through GLEANINGS that I will give
one of my hives complete for a sample to any one that will send you
a club of 10 new subscribers for GLEANINGS, from Canada, (no patent
on it) for 1875 by your giving them the certificate showing that
they have done so.