By Mr. Wales with Dollond’s 3-1/2 foot achromatic }

refractor, at 3h 28ʹ 49-1/4ʺ}

By Mr. Clerke with Bird’s 2 foot reflector, } Apparent

at 3 28 52-1/4 } time

And by me with an 18 inch reflector, made }

by Watkins 3 28 53-1/4 }

Latitude of the isle or place of observation, 20° 17ʹ 39ʺ south.

Longitude per distance of the sun and moon, and moon and stars, 48 sets,

164° 41ʹ 21ʺ east.

Ditto per watch 163 58 0

Mr. Wales measured the quantity eclipsed by a Hadley’s quadrant, a

method never before thought of. I am of opinion it answers the purpose

of a micrometer to a great degree of certainty, and is a great addition

to the use of this most valuable instrument. After all was over, we

returned on board, where I found Teabooma the chief, who soon after

slipped out of the ship without my knowledge, and by that means lost the

present I had made up for him.

In the evening I went ashore to the watering-place, which was at the

head of a little creek, at a fine stream that came from the hills. It

was necessary to have a small boat in the creek to convey the casks from

and to the beach over which they were rolled, and then put into the

launch; as only a small boat could enter the creek, and that only at

high water. Excellent wood for fuel was here far more convenient than

water, but this was an article we did not want. About seven o’clock this

evening, died Simon Monk, our butcher, a man much esteemed in the ship;

his death being occasioned by a fall down the fore-hatchway the

preceding night.

Early in the morning of the 7th, the watering-party, and a guard, under

the command of an officer, were sent ashore; and soon after, a party of

us went to take a view of the country. As soon as we landed, we made

known our design to the natives, and two of them undertaking to be our

guides, conducted us up the hills by a tolerably good path. In our route

we met several people, most of whom turned back with us; so that at last

our train was numerous. Some we met who wanted us to return; but we paid

no regard to their signs, nor did they seem uneasy when we proceeded. At

length we reached the summit of one of the hills, from which we saw the

sea in two places, between some advanced hills on the opposite or S. W.

side of the land. This was an useful discovery, as it enabled us to

judge of the breadth of the land, which, in this part, did not exceed

ten leagues.

Between those advanced hills and the ridge we were upon, was a large

valley, through which ran a serpentine river. On the banks of this were

several plantations, and some villages, whose inhabitants we had met on

the road, and found more on the top of the hill gazing at the ship, as

might be supposed. The plain or flat land, which lies along the shore we

were upon, appeared from the hills to a great advantage; the winding

streams which ran through it, the plantations, the little straggling

villages, the variety in the woods, and the shoals on the coast, so

variegating the scene, that the whole might afford a picture for

romance. Indeed, if it were not for those fertile spots on the plains,

and some few on the sides of the mountains, the whole country might be

called a dreary waste. The mountains and other high places are, for the

most part, incapable of cultivation, consisting chiefly of rocks, many

of which are full of mundicks. The little soil that is upon them is

scorched and burnt up with the sun; it is, nevertheless, coated with

coarse grass and other plants, and here and there trees and shrubs. The

country in general bore great resemblance to some parts of New Holland

under the same parallel of latitude, several of its natural productions

seeming to be the same, and the woods being without underwood, as in

that country. The reefs on the coast, and several other similarities,

were obvious to every one who had seen both countries. We observed all

the N. E. coast to be covered with shoals and breakers, extending to the

northward, beyond the isle of Balabea, till they were lost in the

horizon.—Having made these observations, and our guides not choosing to

go farther, we descended the mountains by a road different from that by

which we ascended. This brought us down through some of their

plantations in the plains, which, I observed, were laid out with great

judgment, and cultivated with much labour. Some of them were lying in

fallow; some seemingly lately laid down, and others of longer date,

pieces of which they were again beginning to dig up. The first thing I

observed they did, was to set fire to the grass, &c. which had over-run

the surface. Recruiting the land by letting it lie some years untouched,

is observed by all the nations in the sea; but they seem to have no

notion of manuring it, at least I have no where seen it done. Our

excursion was finished by noon, when we returned on board to dinner; and

one of our guides having left us, we brought the other with us, whose

fidelity was rewarded at a small expence.

In the afternoon I made a little excursion along shore to the westward,

in company with Mr. Wales. Besides making observations on such things as

we met, we got the names of several places, which I then thought were

islands; but upon farther enquiry, I found they were districts upon this

same land. This afternoon, a fish being struck by one of the natives

near the watering-place, my clerk purchased it, and sent it to me after

my return on board. It was of a new species, something like a sun-fish,

with a large, long, ugly head. Having no suspicion of its being of a

poisonous nature, we ordered it to be dressed for supper; but very

luckily, the operation of drawing and describing took up so much time,

that it was too late, so that only the liver and row were dressed, of

which the two Mr. Forsters and myself did but taste. About three o’clock

in the morning, we found ourselves seized with an extraordinary weakness

and numbness all over our limbs. I had almost lost the sense of feeling,

nor could I distinguish between light and heavy bodies, of such as I had

strength to move; a quart pot full of water and a feather being the same

in my hand. We each of us took an emetic, and after that a sweat, which

gave us much relief. In the morning, one of the pigs which had eaten the

entrails was found dead. When the natives came on board and saw the fish

hang up, they immediately gave us to understand it was not wholesome

food, and expressed the utmost abhorrence of it; though no one was

observed to do this when the fish was to be sold, or even after it was

purchased.

On the 8th, the guard and a party of men were on shore as usual. In the

afternoon I received a message from the officer, acquainting me that

Teabooma, the chief, was come with a present, consisting of a few yams

and sugar-canes. In return I sent him, amongst other articles, a dog and

a bitch, both young, but nearly full grown. The dog was red and white,

but the bitch was all red, or the colour of an English fox. I mention

this, because they may prove the Adam and Eve of their species in that

country. When the officer returned on board in the evening, he informed

me that the chief came attended by about twenty men, so that it looked

like a visit of ceremony. It was some time before he would believe the

dog and bitch were intended for him; but as soon as he was convinced, he

seemed lost in an excess of joy, and sent them away immediately.

Next morning early I dispatched Lieutenant Pickersgill and Mr. Gilbert,

with the launch and cutter, to explore the coast to the west; judging

this would be better effected in the boats than in the ship, as the

reefs would force the latter several leagues from land. After breakfast,

a party of men was sent ashore to make brooms; but myself and the two

Mr. Forsters were confined on board, though much better, a good sweat

having had a happy effect. In the afternoon, a man was seen, both ashore

and alongside the ship, said to be as white as any European. From the

account I had of him (for I did not see him) his whiteness did not

proceed from hereditary descent, but from chance or some disease; and

such have been seen at Otaheite, and the Society Isles.[11] A fresh

easterly wind, and the ship lying a mile from the shore, did not hinder

these good-natured people from swimming off to us in shoals of twenty or

thirty, and returning the same way.

On the 10th, a party was on shore as usual; and Mr. Forster so well

recovered as to go out botanizing.

In the evening of the 11th the boats returned, when I was informed of

the following circumstances. From an elevation, which they reached the

morning they set out, they had a view of the coast. Mr. Gilbert was of

opinion, that they saw the termination of it to the west, but Mr.

Pickersgill thought not; though both agreed that there was no passage

for the ship that way. From this place, accompanied by two of the

natives, they went to Balabea, which they did not reach till after

sun-set, and left again next morning before sun-rise; consequently this

was a fruitless expedition, and the two following days were spent in

getting up to the ship. As they went down to the isle, they saw

abundance of turtle but the violence of the wind and sea made it

impossible to strike any. The cutter was near being lost, by suddenly

filling with water, which obliged them to throw several things

overboard, before they could free her and stop the leak she had sprung.

From a fishing canoe, which they met coming in from the reefs, they got

as much fish as they could eat; and they were received by Teabi, the

chief of the isle of Balabea, and the people, who came in numbers to see

them, with great courtesy. In order not to be too much crowded, our

people drew a line on the ground, and gave the others to understand they

were not to come within it. This restriction they observed, and one of

them, soon after, turned it to his own advantage. For happening to have

a few cocoa-nuts, which one of our people wanted to buy, and he was

unwilling to part with, he walked off, and was followed by the man who

wanted them. On seeing this he sat down on the sand, made a circle round

him, as he had seen our people do, and signified that the other was not

to come within it; which was accordingly observed. As this story was

well attested, I thought it not unworthy of a place in this journal.

Early in the morning of the 12th, I ordered the carpenter to work, to

repair the cutter, and the water to be replaced which we had expended

the three preceding days. As Teabooma, the chief, had not been seen

since he got the dogs, and I wanted to lay a foundation for stocking the

country with hogs also, I took a young boar and sow with me in the boat,

and went up the mangrove creek to look for my friend, in order to give

them to him. But when we arrived there, we were told that he lived at

some distance, and that they would send for him. Whether they did or no,

I cannot say; but he not coming, I resolved to give them to the first

man of note I met with. The guide we had to the hills happening to be

there, I made him understand, that I intended to leave the two pigs on

shore, and ordered them out of the boat for that purpose. I offered them

to a grave old man, thinking he was a proper person to intrust them

with; but he shook his head, and he, and all present, made signs to take

them into the boat again. When they saw I did not comply, they seemed to

consult with one another what was to be done; and then our guide told me

to carry them to the _Alekee_ (chief). Accordingly I ordered them to be

taken up, and we were conducted by him to a house wherein were seated,

in a circle, eight or ten middle-aged persons. To them I and my pigs

being introduced, with great courtesy they desired me to sit down; and

then I began to expatiate on the merits of the two pigs, explaining to

them how many young ones the female would have at one time, and how soon

these would multiply to some hundreds. My only motive was to enhance

their value, that they might take the more care of them; and I had

reason to think I, in some measure, succeeded. In the mean time, two men

having left the company, soon returned with six yams, which were

presented to me; and then I took leave and went on board.

I have already observed, that here was a little village; I now found it

much larger than I expected; and, about it, a good deal of cultivated

land, regularly laid out, planted and planting with taro or eddy root,

yams, sugar-canes, and plantains. The taro plantations were prettily

watered by little rills, continually supplied from the main channel at

the foot of the mountains, from whence these streams were conducted in

artful meanders. They have two methods of planting these roots, some are

in square or oblong patches, which lie perfectly horizontal, and sink

below the common level of the adjacent land; so that they can let in on

them as much water as they think necessary. I have generally seen them

covered two or three inches deep; but I do not know that this is always

necessary. Others are planted in ridges about three or four feet broad,

and two, or two and a half high. On the middle or top of the ridge is a

narrow gutter, in and along which is conveyed, as above described, a

little rill that waters the roots planted in the ridge, on each side of

it; and these plantations are so judiciously laid out, that the same

stream waters several ridges. These ridges are sometimes the divisions

to the horizontal plantations; and when this method is used, which is

for the most part observed where a pathway or something of that sort is

requisite, not an inch of ground is lost. Perhaps there may be some

difference in the roots, which may make these two methods of raising

them necessary. Some are better tasted than others, and they are not all

of a colour. But be this as it may, they are a very wholesome food, and

the tops make good greens, and are eaten as such by the natives. On

these plantations, men, women, and children were employed.

In the afternoon I went on shore, and, on a large tree, which stood

close to the shore, near the watering place, had an inscription cut,

setting forth the ship’s name, date, &c. as a testimony of our being the

first discoverers of this country, as I had done at all others at which

we had touched, where this ceremony was necessary. This being done, we

took leave of our friends, and returned on board; when I ordered all the

boats to be hoisted in, in order to be ready to put to sea in the

morning.

CHAP. IX.

A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY AND ITS INHABITANTS; THEIR MANNERS,

CUSTOMS, AND ARTS.

I shall conclude our transactions at this place with some account of the

country and its inhabitants. They are strong, robust, active, well-made

people, courteous and friendly, and not in the least addicted to

pilfering, which is more than can be said of any other nation in this

sea. They are nearly of the same colour as the natives of Tanna, but

have better features, more agreeable countenances, and are a much

stouter race; a few being seen who measured six feet four inches. I

observed some who had thick lips, flat noses, and full cheeks, and, in

some degree, the features and look of a negro. Two things contributed to

the forming of such an idea; first, their ruff mop heads; and secondly,

their besmearing their faces with black pigment. Their hair and beards

are, in general, black. The former is very much frizzled; so that, at

first sight, it appears like that of a negro. It is, nevertheless, very

different; though both coarser and stronger than ours. Some, who wear it

long, tie it up on the crown of the head; others suffer only a large

lock to grow on each side, which they tie up in clubs; many others, as

well as all the women, wear it cropped short. These rough heads, most

probably, want frequent scratching, for which purpose they have a most

excellent instrument. This is a kind of comb made of sticks of hard

wood, from seven to nine inches long, and about the thickness of

knitting needles. A number of these, seldom exceeding twenty, but

generally fewer, are fastened together at one end, parallel to, and near

1/10th of an inch from each other. The other ends, which are a little

pointed, will spread out or open like the sticks of a fan, by which

means they can beat up the quarters of an hundred lice at a time. These

combs or scratchers, for I believe they serve both purposes, they always

wear in their hair, on one side their head. The people of Tanna have an

instrument of this kind, for the same use; but theirs is forked, I think

never exceeding three or four prongs; and sometimes only a small pointed

stick. Their beards, which are of the same crisp nature as their hair,

are, for the most part, worn short. Swelled and ulcerated legs and feet

are common among the men; as also a swelling of the scrotum. I know not

whether this is occasioned by disease, or by the mode of applying the

wrapper before mentioned, and which they use as at Tanna and Mallicollo.

This is their only covering, and is made generally of the bark of a

tree, but sometimes of leaves. The small pieces of cloth, paper, &c.

which they got from us, were commonly applied to this use. We saw coarse

garments amongst them, made of a sort of matting, but they seemed never

to wear them, except when out in their canoes and unemployed. Some had a

kind of concave, cylindrical, stiff black cap, which appeared to be a

great ornament among them, and, we thought, was only worn by men of

note, or warriors. A large sheet of strong paper, when they got one from

us, was generally applied to this use.

The women’s dress is a short petticoat, made of the filaments of the

plantain tree, laid over a cord, to which they are fastened, and tied

round the waist. The petticoat is made at least six or eight inches

thick, but not one inch longer than necessary for the use designed. The

outer filaments are dyed black; and, as an additional ornament, the most

of them have a few pearl oyster-shells fixed on the right side. The

general ornaments of both sexes, are ear-rings of tortoise-shell,

necklaces or amulets, made both of shells and stones, and bracelets,

made of large shells, which they wear above the elbow. They have

punctures, or marks on the skin, on several parts of the body; but none,

I think, are black, as at the eastern islands. I know not if they have

any other design than ornament; and the people of Tanna are marked much

in the same manner.

Were I to judge of the origin of this nation, I should take them to be a

race between the people of Tanna and of the Friendly Isles; or between

those of Tanna and the New Zealanders, or all three; their language, in

some respects, being a mixture of them all. In their disposition they

are like the natives of the Friendly Isles, but in affability and

honesty they excel them.

Notwithstanding their pacific inclination, they must sometimes have

wars, as they are well provided with offensive weapons; such as clubs,

spears, darts, and slings for throwing stones. The clubs are about two

feet and a half long, and variously formed; some like a scythe, others

like a pick-axe; some have a head like an hawk, and others have round

heads; but all are neatly made. Many of their darts and spears are no

less neat, and ornamented with carvings. The slings are as simple as

possible; but they take some pains to form the stones that they use into

a proper shape; which is something like an egg, supposing both ends to

be like the small one. They use a becket, in the same manner as at

Tanna, in throwing the dart, which, I believe, is much used in striking

fish, &c. In this they seem very dexterous; nor, indeed, do I know that

they have any other method of catching large fish; for I neither saw

hooks nor lines among them.

It is needless to mention their working tools, as they are made of the

same materials, and nearly in the same manner, as at the other islands.

Their axes, indeed, are a little different; some, at least; which may be

owing to fancy as much as custom.

Their houses, or at least most of them, are circular; something like a

bee-hive, and full as close and warm. The entrance is by a small door,

or long square hole, just big enough to admit a man bent double. The

side walls are about four feet and a half high; but the roof is lofty,

and peaked to a point at the top, above which is a post or stick of

wood, which is generally ornamented either with carving or shells, or

both. The framing is of small spars, reeds, &c. and both sides and roof

are thick and close covered with thatch, made of coarse long grass. In

the inside of the house are set up posts, to which cross spars are

fastened and platforms made for the conveniency of laying any thing on.

Some houses have two floors, one above the other. The floor is laid with

dry grass, and here and there mats are spread for the principal people

to sleep or sit on. In most of them we found two fire-places, and

commonly a fire burning, and, as there was no vent for the smoke but by

the door, the whole house was both smoky and hot, insomuch that we, who

are not used to such an atmosphere, could hardly endure it a moment.

This may be the reason why we found these people so chilly when in the

open air and without exercise. We frequently saw them make little fires

any where, and hustle round them, with no other view than to warm

themselves. Smoke within doors may be a necessary evil, as it prevents

the musquitoes from coming in, which are pretty numerous here. In some

respects their habitations are neat; for, besides the ornaments at top,

I saw some with carved door-posts. Upon the whole, their houses are

better calculated for a cold than a hot climate; and as there are no

partitions in them, they can have little privacy.

They have no great variety of household utensils; the earthen jars

before mentioned being the only article worth notice. Each family has,

at least, one of them, in which they bake their roots, and perhaps their

fish, &c. The fire by which they cook their victuals, is on the outside

of each house, in the open air. There are three or five pointed stones

fixed in the ground, their pointed ends being about six inches above the

surface, in this form: [Illustration] Those of three stones, are only

for one jar, those of five stones, for two. The jars do not stand on

their bottoms, but lie inclined on their sides. The use of these stones

is, obviously, to keep the jars from resting on the fire, in order that

it may burn the better.

They subsist chiefly on roots and fish, and the bark of a tree, which I

am told grows also in the West Indies. This they roast, and are almost

continually chewing. It has a sweetish, insipid taste; and was liked by

some of our people. Water is their only liquor; at least, I never saw

any other made use of.

Plantains and sugar-canes are by no means in plenty. Bread-fruit is very

scarce, and the cocoa-nut trees are small and but thinly planted; and

neither one nor the other seems to yield much fruit.

To judge merely by the numbers of the natives we saw every day, one

might think the island very populous; but, I believe, that at this time,

the inhabitants were collected from all parts on our account. Mr.

Pickersgill observed, that down the coast, to the west, there were but

few people; and we knew they came daily from the other side of the land,

over the mountains, to visit us. But although the inhabitants, upon the

whole, may not be numerous, the island is not thinly peopled on the

sea-coast, and in the plains and valleys that are capable of

cultivation. It seems to be a country unable to support many

inhabitants. Nature has been less bountiful to it than to any other

tropical island we know in this sea. The greatest part of its surface,

or at least what we saw of it, consists of barren, rocky mountains, and

the grass, &c. growing on them, is useless to people who have no cattle.

The sterility of the country will apologize for the natives not

contributing to the wants of the navigator. The sea may, perhaps, in

some measure, compensate for the deficiency of the land; for a coast

surrounded by reefs and shoals as this is, cannot fail of being stored

with fish.

I have before observed, that the country bears great resemblance to New

South Wales, or New Holland, and that some of its natural productions

are the same. In particular, we found here the tree which is covered

with a soft white ragged bark, easily peeled off, and is, as I have been

told, the same that in the East Indies is used for caulking of ships.

The wood is very hard, the leaves are long and narrow, of a pale dead

green, and a fine aromatic; so that it may properly be said to belong to

that continent. Nevertheless, here are several plants, &c. common to the

eastern and northern islands, and even a species of the passion-flower,

which, I am told, has never before been known to grow wild any where but

in America. Our botanists did not complain for want of employment at

this place; every day bringing something new in botany or other branches

of natural history. Land-birds, indeed, are not numerous, but several

are new. One of these is a kind of crow, at least so we called it,

though it is not half so big, and its feathers are tinged with blue.

They also have some very beautiful turtle-doves, and other small birds,

such as I never saw before.

All our endeavours to get the name of the whole island proved

ineffectual. Probably, it is too large for them to know by one name.

Whenever we made this enquiry, they always gave us the name of some

district or place, which we pointed to; and, as before observed, I got

the names of several, with the name of the king or chief of each. Hence,

I conclude, that the country is divided into several districts, each

governed by a chief; but we know nothing of the extent of his power.

Balade was the name of the district we were at, and Tea Booma the chief.

He lived on the other side of the ridge of hills, so that we had but

little of his company, and therefore could not see much of his power.

_Tea_ seems a title prefixed to the names of all or most of their chiefs

or great men. My friend honoured me by calling me _Tea_ Cook.

They deposit their dead in the ground. I saw none of their

burying-places; but several of the gentlemen did. In one, they were

informed, lay the remains of a chief, who was slain in battle; and his

grave, which bore some resemblance to a large molehill, was decorated

with spears, darts, paddles, &c. all stuck upright in the ground round

about it.

The canoes which these people use, are somewhat like those of the

Friendly Isles: but the most heavy, clumsy vessels I ever saw. They are

what I call double canoes, made out of two large trees hollowed out,

having a raised gunnel about two inches high, and closed at each end

with a kind of bulk head of the same height; so that the whole is like a

long square trough, about three feet shorter than the body of the canoe;

that is, a foot and an half at each end. Two canoes, thus fitted, are

secured to each other, about three feet asunder, by means of cross

spars, which project about a foot over each side. Over these spars is

laid a deck or very heavy platform, made of plank and small round spars,

on which they have a fire hearth, and generally a fire burning; and they

carry a pot or jar to dress their victuals in. The space between the two

canoes is laid with plank, and the rest with spars. On one side of the

deck, and close to the edge, is fixed a row of knees, pretty near to

each other, the use of which is to keep the mast, yards, &c. from

rolling over-board. They are navigated by one or two latteen sails,

extended to a small latteen yard, the end of which fixes in a notch or

hole in the deck. The foot of the sail is extended to a small boom. The

sail is composed of pieces of matting, the ropes are made of the coarse

filaments of the plantain tree, twisted into cords of the thickness of a

finger; and three or four more such cords, marled together, serve them

for shrouds, &c. I thought they sailed very well; but they are not at

all calculated for rowing or paddling. Their method of proceeding, when

they cannot sail, is by sculling; and for this purpose there are holes

in the boarded deck or platform. Through these they put the sculls,

which are of such a length, that, when the blade is in the water, the

loom or handle is four or five feet above the deck. The man who works it

stands behind, and with both his hands sculls the vessel forward. This

method of proceeding is very slow, and for this reason, the canoes are

but ill calculated for fishing, especially for striking of turtle,

which, I think, can hardly ever be done in them. Their fishing

implements, such as I have seen, are turtle nets, made, I believe, of

the filaments of the plantain tree, twisted; and small hand nets, with

very minute meshes made of fine twine and fish gigs. Their general

method of fishing, I guess, is to lie on the reefs in shoal water, and

to strike the fish that may come in their way. They may, however, have

other methods, which we had no opportunity to see, as no boat went out

while we were here, all their time and attention being taken up with us.

Their canoes are about thirty feet long, and the deck or platform about

twenty-four in length and ten in breadth. We had not, at this time, seen

any timber in the country so large as that of which their canoes were

made. It was observed, that the holes made in the several parts, in

order to sew them together, were burnt through, but with what instrument

we never learnt; most probably it was of stone; which may be the reason

why they were so fond of large spikes, seeing at once they would answer

this purpose. I was convinced they were not wholly designed for edge

tools; because every one showed a desire for the iron belaying pins

which were fixed in the quarter deck rail, and seemed to value them far

more than a spike-nail, although it might be twice as big. These pins,

which are round, perhaps have the very shape of the tool they wanted to

make of the nails. I did not find that a hatchet was quite so valuable

as a large spike. Small nails were of little or no value; and beads,

looking-glasses, &c. they did not admire.

The women of this country, and likewise those of Tanna, are, so far as I

could judge, far more chaste than those of the more eastern islands. I

never heard that one of our people obtained the least favour from any

one of them. I have been told, that the ladies here would frequently

divert themselves, by going a little aside with our gentlemen, as if

they meant to be kind to them, and then would run away laughing at them.

Whether this was chastity or coquetry, I shall not pretend to determine;

nor is it material, since the consequences were the same.

CHAP. X.

PROCEEDINGS ON THE COAST OF NEW CALEDONIA, WITH GEOGRAPHICAL AND

NAUTICAL OBSERVATIONS.

Every thing being in readiness to put to sea, at sunrise, on the 13th of

September, we weighed, and with a fine gale at E. by S., stood out for

the same channel we came in by. At half past seven we were in the middle

of it. Observatory Isle bore S. 5° E., distant four miles, and the Isle

of Balabea W. N. W. As soon as we were clear of the reef, we hauled the

wind on the starboard tack, with a view of plying in to the S. E.; but

as Mr. Gilbert was of opinion that he had seen the end or N. W.

extremity of the land, and that it would be easier to get round by the

N. W., I gave over plying, and bore up along the outside of the reef,

steering N. N. W., N. W., and N. W. by W. as it trended. At noon the

island of Balabea bore S. by W., distant thirteen miles; and what we

judged to be the west end of the great land, bore S. W. 1/2 S., and the

direction of the reef was N. W. by W., latitude observed 19° 53ʹ 20ʺ.

Longitude from Observatory Isle 14ʹ W. We continued to steer N. W. by W.

along the outside of the reef till three o’clock, at which time the Isle

of Balabea bore S. by E. 1/2 E. In this direction we observed a

partition in the reef, which we judged to be a channel, by the strong

tide which set out of it. From this place the reef inclined to the

north, for three or four leagues, and then to N. W. We followed its

direction, and as we advanced to N. W., raised more land, which seemed

to be connected with what we had seen before; so that Mr. Gilbert was

mistaken, and did not see the extremity of the coast. At five o’clock

this land bore W. by N. 1/2 N., distant twenty miles; but what we could

see of the reef trended in the direction of N. W. by N.

Having hauled the wind on the starboard tack, and spent the night

plying, on the 14th, at sunrise, the Island of Balabea bore S. 6° East,

and the land seen the preceding night west, but the reef still trended

N. W., along which we steered, with a light breeze at E. S. E. At noon

we observed in latitude 19° 28ʹ, longitude from Observatory Isle 27ʹ

West. We had now no sight of Balabea; and the other land, that is, the

N. W. part of it, bore W. by S. 1/2 S.; but we were not sure if this was

one continued coast, or separate islands. For though some partitions

were seen, from space to space, which made it look like the latter, a

multitude of shoals rendered a nearer approach to it exceedingly

dangerous, if not impracticable. In the afternoon, with a fine breeze at

E. S. E., we ranged the outside of these shoals, which we found to trend

in the direction of N. W. by W., N. W. by N., and N. N. E. At three

o’clock we passed a low sandy isle, lying on the outer edge of the reef;

in latitude 19° 25ʹ, and in the direction of N. E. from the

north-westernmost land, six or seven leagues distant. So much as we

could see of this space was strewed with shoals, seemingly detached from

each other; and the channel leading in amongst them, appeared to be on

the S. E. side of the sandy isle; at least there was a space where the

sea did not break. At sunset, we could but just see the land, which bore

S. W. by S., about ten leagues distant. A clear horizon produced the

discovery of no land to the westward of this direction; the reef too,

trended away W. by N. 1/2 N., and seemed to terminate in a point which

was seen from the mast head. Thus every thing conspired to make us

believe that we should soon get round these shoals; and with these

flattering expectations we hauled the wind, which was at E. N. E., and

spent the night making short boards.

Next morning, at sunrise, seeing neither land nor breakers, we bore away

N. W. by W., and two hours after saw the reef extending N. W. farther

than the eye could reach; but no land was to be seen. It was therefore

probable, that we had passed its N. W. extremity; and, as we had seen

from the hills of Balade its extent to the S. W., it was necessary to

know how far it extended to the E. or S. E. while it was in our power to

recover the coast. For, by following the direction of the shoals, we

might have been carried so far to leeward as not to be able to beat back

without considerable loss of time. We were already far out of sight of

land; and there was no knowing how much farther we might be carried,

before we found an end to them. These considerations, together with the

risk we must run in exploring a sea strewed with shoals, and where no

anchorage, without them, is to be found, induced me to abandon the

design of proceeding round by the N. W., and to ply up to the S. E., in

which direction I knew there was a clear sea. With this view, we tacked

and stood to the S. E., with the wind at N. E. by E., a gentle breeze.

At this time we were in the latitude of 19° 7ʹ S., longitude 165° 57ʹ

East.

In standing to S. E. we did but just weather the point of the reef we

had passed the preceding evening. To make our situation the more

dangerous, the wind began to fail us; and at three in the afternoon it

fell calm, and left us to the mercy of a great swell, setting directly

on the reef, which was hardly a league from us. We sounded, but found no

bottom, with a line of 200 fathoms. I ordered the pinnace and cutter to

be hoisted out to tow the ship; but they were of little use against so

great a swell. We, however, found that the ship did not draw near the

reef so fast as might be expected; and at seven o’clock, a light air at

N. N. E. kept her head to the sea, but it lasted no longer than

midnight, when it was succeeded by a dead calm.

At day-break, on the 16th, we had no sight of the reef; and at eleven, a

breeze springing up at S. S. W. we hoisted in the boats, and made sail

to S. E. At noon we observed in 19° 35ʹ South, which was considerably

more to the south than we expected, and showed that a current or tide

had been in our favour all night, and accounted for our getting so

unexpectedly clear of the shoals. At two o’clock P. M. we had again a

calm, which lasted till nine, when it was succeeded by a light air from

E. N. E. and E., with which we advanced but slowly.

On the 17th, at noon, we observed in latitude 19° 54ʹ, when the Isle of

Balabea bore S. 60° West, ten and a half leagues distant. We continued

to ply, with variable light winds, between N. E. and S. E. without

meeting with any thing remarkable till the 20th at noon, when Cape

Colnet bore N. 78° West, distant six leagues. From this cape the land

extended round by the south to E. S. E. till it was lost in the horizon;

and the country appeared with many hills and vallies. Latitude observed

20° 41ʹ, longitude made from Observatory Isle 1° 8ʹ East. We stood in

shore with a light breeze at east till sunset, when we were between two

and three leagues off. The coast extended from S. 42° 1/2 East to N. 59°

West. Two small islets lay without this last direction, distant from us

four or five miles; some others lay between us and the shore, and to the

east, where they seemed to be connected by reefs, in which appeared some

openings from space to space. The country was mountainous, and had much

the same aspect as about Balade. On one of the western small isles was

an elevation like a tower; and, over a low neck of land within the isle,

were seen many other elevations resembling the masts of a fleet of

ships.

Next day, at sunrise, after having stood off all night with a light

breeze at S. E., we found ourselves about six leagues from the coast;

and in this situation we were kept by a calm till ten in the evening,

when we got a faint land breeze at S. W., with which we steered S. E.

all night.

On the 22d, at sunrise, the land was clouded, but it was not long before

the clouds went off, and we found, by our land-marks, that we had made a

good advance. At ten o’clock, the land-breeze being succeeded by a

sea-breeze at E. by S., this enabled us to stand in for the land, which

at noon extended from N. 78° West, to S. 31-1/2° East, round by the

south. In this last direction the coast seemed to trend more to the

south in a lofty promontory, which, on account of the day, received the

name of Cape Coronation. Latitude 22° 2ʹ, longitude 167° 7-1/2ʹ East.

Some breakers lay between us and the shore, and probably they were

connected with those we had seen before.

During the night we had advanced about two leagues to S. E., and at

day-break, on the 23d, an elevated point appeared in sight beyond Cape

Coronation, bearing S. 23° East. It proved to be the S. E. extremity of

the coast, and obtained the name of Queen Charlotte’s Foreland. Latitude

22° 16ʹ S., longitude 167° 14ʹ East. About noon, having got a breeze

from the N. E., we stood to S. S. E., and, as we drew towards Cape

Coronation, saw in a valley to the south of it, a vast number of those

elevated objects before-mentioned; and some low land under the Foreland

was wholly covered with them. We could not agree in our opinions of what

they were. I supposed them to be a singular sort of trees, being too

numerous to resemble any thing else; and a great deal of smoke kept

rising all the day from amongst those near the Cape. Our philosophers

were of opinion that this was the smoke of some internal and perpetual

fire. My representing to them that there was no smoke here in the

morning, would have been of no avail, had not this eternal fire gone out

before night, and no more smoke been seen after. They were still more

positive, that the elevations were pillars of basaltes, like those which

compose the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland. At sunset, the wind veering

round to the south, we tacked and stood off, it not being safe to

approach the shore in the dark. At day-break we stood in again, with a

faint land-breeze between E. S. E. and S. S. E. At noon observed in

latitude 21° 59ʹ 30ʺ, Cape Coronation bearing west southerly, distant

seven leagues, and the Foreland S. 38° West. As we advanced to S. S. W.

the coast beyond the Foreland began to appear in sight; and, at sunset,

we discovered a low island lying S. S. E., about seven miles from the

Foreland. It was one of those which are generally surrounded with shoals

and breakers. At the same time a round hill was seen bearing S. 24°

East, twelve leagues distant. During night, having had variable light

winds, we advanced but little either way.

On the 25th, about ten o’clock A. M., having got a fair breeze at

E. S. E., we stood to S. S. W., in hopes of getting round the Foreland;

but, as we drew near, we perceived more low isles beyond the one already

mentioned, which at last appeared to be connected by breakers, extending

towards the Foreland, and seeming to join the shore. We stood on till

half-past three o’clock, when we saw, from the deck, rocks just peeping

above the surface of the sea, on the shoal above mentioned. It was now

time to alter the course, as the day was too far spent to look for a

passage near the shore, and we could find no bottom to anchor in during

the night. We therefore stood to the south, to look for a passage

without the small isles. We had a fine breeze at E. S. E., but it lasted

no longer than five o’clock, when it fell to a dead calm. Having

sounded, a line of 170 fathoms did not reach the bottom, though we were

but a little way from the shoals, which, instead of following the coast

to S. W., took a S. E. direction towards the hill we had seen the

preceding evening, and seemed to point out to us that it was necessary

to go round that land. At this time the most advanced point on the main

bore S. 68° West, distant nine or ten leagues. About seven o’clock we

got a light breeze at north, which enabled us to steer out E. S. E., and

to spend the night with less anxiety. On some of the low isles were many

of those elevations already mentioned. Every one was now satisfied they

were trees, except our philosophers; who still maintained that they were

basaltes.

About day break, on the 26th, the wind having shifted to S. S. W., we

stretched to S. E. for the hill before mentioned. It belonged to an

island, which at noon extended from S. 16° E. to S. 7° West, distant six

leagues. Latitude observed 22° 16ʹ South. In the P. M. the wind

freshened, and, veering to S. S. E., we stretched to the east, till two

A. M. on the 27th, when we tacked and stood to S. W. with hopes of

weathering the island; but we fell about two miles short of our

expectations, and had to tack about a mile from the east side of the

island, the extremes bearing from N. W. by N. to S. W. the hill west,

and some low isles, lying off the S. E. point, S. by W. These seemed to

be connected with the large island by breakers. We sounded when in

stays, but had no ground with a line of eighty fathoms. The skirts of

this island were covered with the elevations more than once mentioned.

They had much the appearance of tall pines, which occasioned my giving

that name to the island. The round hill, which is on the S. W. side, is

of such a height as to be seen fourteen or sixteen leagues. The island

is about a mile in circuit, and situated in latitude 22° 38ʹ S.,

longitude 167° 40ʹ East. Having made two attempts to weather the Isle of

Pines before sunset, with no better success than before, this determined

me to stretch off till midnight. This day at noon the thermometer was at

68° 3/4, which is lower than it had been since the 27th of February.

Having tacked at midnight, assisted by the currents, and a fresh gale at

E. S. E. and S. E., next morning, at daybreak, we found ourselves

several leagues to windward of the Isle of Pines, and bore away large,

round the S. E., and south sides. The coast from the S. E., round by the

south to the west, was strewed with sand-banks, breakers, and small low

isles, most of which were covered with the same lofty trees that

ornamented the borders of the greater one. We continued to range the

outside of these small isles and breakers, at three-fourths of a league

distance, and as we passed, one raised another; so that they seemed to

form a chain extending to the isles which lie off the Foreland. At noon

we observed, in latitude 22° 44ʹ 36ʺ South, the Isle of Pines, extending

from N. by E. 1/2 E. to E. by N., and Cape Coronation N. 32° 30ʹ West,

distant seventeen leagues. In the afternoon, with a fine gale at E., we

steered N. W. by W. along the outside of the shoals, with a view of

falling in with the land a little to S. W. of the Foreland. At two

o’clock P. M. two low islets were seen bearing W. by S., and as they

were connected by breakers, which seemed to join those on our starboard,

this discovery made it necessary to haul off S. W. in order to get clear

of them all. At three, more breakers appeared, extending from the low

isles towards the S. E. We now hauled out close to the wind; and, in an

hour and an half, were almost on board the breakers, and obliged to

tack. From the mast-head, they were seen to extend as far as E. S. E.,

and the smoothness of the sea made it probable that they extended to the

north of east, and that we were in a manner surrounded by them. At this

time the hill on the Isle of Pines bore N. 71-1/2° East, the Foreland N.

1/4 W., and the most advanced point of land on the S. W. coast bore

N. W., distant fifteen or sixteen leagues. This direction of the S. W.

coast, which was rather within the parallel of the N. E., assured us

that this land extended no farther to the S. W. After making a short

trip to N. N. E., we stood again to the south, in expectation of having

a better view of the shoals before sunset. We gained nothing by this but

the prospect of a sea strewed with shoals, which we could not clear but

by returning in the track by which we came. We tacked nearly in the same

place where we had tacked before, and on sounding found a bottom of fine

sand. But anchoring in a strong gale, with a chain of breakers to

leeward, being the last resource, I rather chose to spend the night in

making short boards over that space we had, in some measure, made

ourselves acquainted with in the day. And thus it was spent; but under

the terrible apprehension, every moment, of falling on some of the many

dangers which surrounded us.

Daylight showed that our fears were not ill-founded, and that we had

been in the most imminent danger; having had breakers continually under

our lee, and at a very little distance from us. We owed our safety to

the interposition of Providence, a good look-out, and the very brisk

manner in which the ship was managed; for, as we were standing to the

north, the people on the lee gangway and forecastle saw breakers under

the lee-bow, which we escaped by quickly tacking the ship.

I was now almost tired of a coast which I could no longer explore, but

at the risk of losing the ship and ruining the whole voyage. I was,

however, determined not to leave it, till I knew what trees those were

which had been the subject of our speculation; especially as they

appeared to be of a sort useful to shipping, and had not been seen any

where but in the southern part of this land. With this view, after

making a trip to the south, to weather the shoals under our lee, we

stood to the north, in hopes of finding anchorage under some of the

islets on which these trees grew. We were stopped by eight o’clock by

the shoals which lie extended between the Isle of Pines and Queen

Charlotte’s Foreland; and found soundings off them in fifty-five, forty,

and thirty-six fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. The nearer we came to these

shoals, the more we saw of them, and we were not able to say if there

was any passage between the two lands.

Being now but a few miles to windward of the low isles lying off the

Foreland, mentioned on the 25th and 26th, I bore down to the one next to

us. As we drew near it I perceived that it was unconnected with the

neighbouring shoals, and that it is probable we might get to an anchor

under its lee or west side. We therefore stood on, being conducted by an

officer at the mast-head; and after hauling round the point of the reef

which surrounds the isle, we attempted to ply to windward, in order to

get nearer the shore. Another reef to the north confined us to a narrow

channel, through which ran a current against us, that rendered this

attempt fruitless; so that we were obliged to anchor in thirty-nine

fathoms’ water, the bottom fine coral sand; the isle bearing W. by N.,

one mile distant. As soon as this was done, we hoisted out a boat, in

which I went ashore, accompanied by the botanists. We found the tall

trees to be a kind of spruce pine, very proper for spars, of which we

were in want. After making this discovery, I hastened on board in order

to have more time after dinner, when I landed again with two boats,

accompanied by several of the officers and gentlemen, having with us the

carpenter and some of his crew, to cut down such trees as were wanting.

While this was doing, I took the bearings of several lands round. The

hill on the Isle of Pines bore S. 59° 30ʹ E.; the low point of Queen

Charlotte’s Foreland N. 14° 30ʹ West; the high land over it, seen over

two low isles, N. 20° West; and the most advanced point of land to the

west, bore west, half a point south, distant six or seven leagues. We

had, from several bearings, ascertained the true direction of the coast

from the Foreland to this point, which I shall distinguish by the name

of Prince of Wales’s Foreland. It is situated in the latitude of 22° 29ʹ

S., longitude 166° 57ʹ E., is of a considerable height, and, when it

first appears above the horizon, looks like an island. From this cape

the coast trended nearly N. W. This was rather too northerly a direction

to join that part which we saw from the hills of Balade. But as it was

very high land which opened off the cape in that direction, it is very

probable that lower land, which we could not see, opened sooner; or else

the coast more to the N. W. takes a more westerly direction, in the same

manner as the N. E. coast. Be this as it may, we pretty well know the

extent of the land, by having it confined within certain limits.

However, I still entertained hopes of seeing more of it; but was

disappointed.

The little isle upon which we landed, is a mere sand bank, not exceeding

three-fourths of a mile in circuit, and on it, besides these pines, grew

the _Etos_ tree of Otaheite, and a variety of other trees, shrubs, and

plants. These gave sufficient employment to our botanists, all the time

we staid upon it, and occasioned my calling it Botany Isle. On it were

several water-snakes, some pigeons and doves, seemingly different from

any we had seen. One of the officers shot a hawk, which proved to be of

the very same sort as our English fishing-hawks. Several fire-places,

branches, and leaves very little decayed, remains of turtle, &c. showed

that people had lately been on the isle. The hull of a canoe, precisely

of the same shape as those we had seen at Balade, lay wrecked in the

sand. We were now no longer at a loss to know of what trees they make

their canoes, as they can be no other than these pines. On this little

isle were some which measured twenty inches diameter, and between sixty

and seventy feet in length, and would have done very well for a

fore-mast to the Resolution, had one been wanting. Since trees of this

size are to be found on so small a spot, it is reasonable to expect to

find some much larger on the main, and larger isles, and, if appearances

did not deceive us, we can assert it.

If I except New Zealand, I, at this time, knew of no island in the South

Pacific Ocean, where a ship could supply herself with a mast or a yard,

were she ever so much distressed for want of one. Thus far the discovery

is or may be valuable. My carpenter, who was a mast-maker as well as a

ship-wright, two trades he learnt in Deptford yard, was of opinion that

these trees would make exceedingly good masts. The wood is white,

close-grained, tough, and light. Turpentine had exuded out of most of

the trees, and the sun had inspissated it into a rosin, which was found

sticking to the trunks, and lying about the roots. These trees shoot out

their branches like all other pines; with this difference, that the

branches of these are much smaller and shorter; so that the knots become

nothing when the tree is wrought for use. I took notice, that the

largest of them had the smallest and shortest branches, and were

crowned, as it were, at the top, by a spreading branch like a bush. This

was what led some on board into the extravagant notion of their being

basaltes: indeed, no one could think of finding such trees here.—The

seeds are produced in cones; but we could find none that had any in

them, or that were in a proper state for vegetable or botanical

examination. Besides these, there was another tree or shrub of the

spruce fir kind; but it was very small. We also found on the isle a sort

of scurvy-grass, and a plant, called by us Lamb’s Quarters, which, when

boiled, eat like spinnage.

Having got ten or twelve small spars to make studding sail booms,

boats’-masts, &c., and night approaching, we returned with them on

board.

The purpose for which I anchored under this isle being answered, I was

now to consider what was next to be done. We had, from the topmast head,

taken a view of the sea around us, and observed the whole, to the west,

to be strewed with small islets, sand-banks, and breakers, to the utmost

extent of our horizon. They seemed, indeed, not to be all connected, and

to be divided by winding channels. But when I considered, that the

extent of this S. W. coast was already pretty well determined; the great

risk attending a more accurate survey, and the time it would require to

accomplish it, on account of the many dangers we should have to

encounter, I determined not to hazard the ship down to leeward, where we

might be so hemmed in as to find it difficult to return, and by that

means lose the proper season for getting to the south. I now wished to

have had the little vessel set up, the frame of which we had on board. I

had some thoughts of doing this when we were last at Otaheite, but found

it could not be executed, without neglecting the caulking and other

necessary repairs of the ship, or staying longer there than the route I

had in view would admit. It was now too late to begin setting her up,

and then to use her in exploring this coast; and in our voyage to the

south, she could be of no service. These reasons induced me to try to

get without the shoals; that is, to the southward of them.

Next morning, at day-break, we got under sail, with a light breeze at E.

by N. We had to make some trips to weather the shoals to leeward of

Botany Isle; but when this was done, the breeze began to fail; and at

three P. M. it fell calm. The swell, assisted by the current, set us

fast to S. W. towards the breakers, which were yet in sight in that

direction. Thus we continued till ten o’clock, at which time a breeze

springing up at N. N. W. we steered E. S. E., the contrary course we had

come in; not daring to steer farther south till day-light.

At three o’clock next morning, the wind veered to S. W., blew hard, and

in squalls, attended with rain, which made it necessary to proceed with

our courses up, and topsails on the cap, till day-break, when the hill

on the Isle of Pines bore N., and our distance from the shore in that

direction was about four leagues. We had now a very strong wind at

S. S. W., attended by a great sea, so that we had reason to rejoice at

having got clear of the shoals before this gale overtook us. Though

every thing conspired to make me think this was the westerly monsoon, it

can hardly be comprehended under that name, for several reasons; first,

because it was near a month too soon for these winds; secondly, because

we know not if they reach this place at all; and lastly, because it is

very common for westerly winds to blow within the tropics. However, I

never found them to blow so hard before, or so far southerly. Be these

things as they may, we had now no other choice but to stretch to S. E.,

which we accordingly did, with our starboard tacks aboard; and at noon

were out of sight of land.

The gale continued with very little alteration till noon next day; at

which time we observed in latitude 23° 18ʹ, longitude made from the Isle

of Pines 1° 54ʹ East. In the afternoon we had little wind from the

south, and a great swell from the same direction; and many boobies,

tropic, and men-of-war birds were seen. At eleven o’clock a fresh breeze

sprung up at W. by S., with which we stood to the south. At this time we

were in the latitude of 23° 18ʹ, longitude 169° 49ʹ E., and about

forty-two leagues south of the Hebrides.

At eight o’clock in the morning, on the 3d, the wind veered to S. W.,

and blew a strong gale by squalls, attended with rain. I now gave over

all thought of returning to the land we had left. Indeed, when I

considered the vast ocean we had to explore to the south; the state and

condition of the ship, already in want of some necessary stores; that

summer was approaching fast; and that any considerable accident might

detain us in this sea another year; I did not think it advisable to

attempt to regain the land.

Thus I was obliged, as it were by necessity, for the first time, to

leave a coast I had discovered, before it was fully explored. I called

it New Caledonia; and, if we except New Zealand, it is perhaps the

largest island in the South Pacific Ocean; for it extends from the

latitude of 19° 37ʹ to 22° 30ʹ S., and from the longitude of 163° 37ʹ to

167° 14ʹ E. It lies nearly N. W. 1/2 W., and S. E. 1/2 E., and is about

eighty-seven leagues long in that direction; but its breadth is not

considerable, not any where exceeding ten leagues. It is a country full

of hills and valleys, of various extent both for height and depth. To

judge of the whole by the parts we were on, from these hills spring vast

numbers of little rivulets, which greatly contribute to fertilize the

plains, and to supply all the wants of the inhabitants. The summits of

most of the hills seem to be barren; though some few are clothed with

wood; as are all the plains and valleys. By reason of these hills, many

parts of the coast, when at a distance from it, appeared indented, or to

have great inlets between the hills; but, when we came near the shore,

we always found such places shut up with low land, and also observed low

land to lie along the coast between the sea-shore and the foot of the

hills. As this was the case in all such parts as we came near enough to

see, it is reasonable to suppose that the whole coast is so. I am

likewise of opinion, that the whole, or greatest part, is surrounded by

reefs or shoals, which render the access to it very dangerous, but at

the same time guard the coast from the violence of the wind and sea;

make it abound with fish; secure an easy and safe navigation along it,

for canoes, &c. and most likely form some good harbours for shipping.

Most, if not every part of the coast is inhabited, the Isle of Pines not

excepted; for we saw either smoke by day, or fires by night, wherever we

came. In the extent which I have given to this island is included the

broken or unconnected lands to the N. W., as they are delineated in the

chart. That they may be connected, I shall not pretend to deny; we were

however of opinion that they were isles, and that New Caledonia

terminated more to S. E., though this, at most, is but a well-founded

conjecture.

But whether these lands be separate isles, or connected with New

Caledonia, it is by no means certain that we saw their termination to

the west. I think we did not, as the shoals did not end with the land we

saw, but kept their N. W. direction farther than Bougainville’s track in

the latitude of 15° or 15-1/2°. Nay, it seems not improbable, that a

chain of isles, sand-banks, and reefs, may extend to the west, as far as

the coast of New South Wales. The eastern extent of the isles and shoals

off that coast, between the latitude of 15° and 23°, were not known. The

semblance of the two countries;[12] Bougainville’s meeting with the

shoal of Diana above sixty leagues from the coast, and the signs he had

of land to the S. E., all tend to increase the probability. I must

confess that it is carrying probability and conjecture a little too far,

to say what may lie in a space of two hundred leagues; but it is in some

measure necessary, were it only to put some future navigator on his

guard.

Mr. Wales determined the longitude of that part of New Caledonia we

explored, by ninety-six sets of observations, which were reduced to one

another by our trusty guide the watch. I found the variation of the

compass to be 10° 24ʹ E. This is the mean variation given by the three

azimuth compasses we had on board, which would differ from each other a

degree and a half, and sometimes more. I did not observe any difference

in the variation between the N. W. and S. E. parts of this land, except

when we were at anchor before Balade, where it was less than 10°; but

this I did not regard, as I found such an uniformity out at sea; and it

is there where navigators want to know the variation. While we were on

the N. E. coast, I thought the currents set to S. E. and W. or N. W. on

the other side; but they are by no means considerable, and may as

probably be channels of tides as regular currents. In the narrow

channels which divide the shoals, and those which communicate with the

sea, the tides run strong; but their rise and fall are inconsiderable,

not exceeding three feet and a half. The time of high water, at the full

and change, at Balade, is about six o’clock; but at Botany Isle we

judged it would happen about ten or eleven o’clock.

CHAP. XI.

SEQUEL OF THE PASSAGE FROM NEW CALEDONIA TO NEW ZEALAND, WITH AN ACCOUNT

OF THE DISCOVERY OF NORFOLK ISLAND; AND THE INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED

WHILE THE SHIP LAY IN QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S SOUND.

The wind continuing at S. W., W. S. W. and W. blowing a fresh gale, and

now and then squalls, with showers of rain, we steered to S. S. E.,

without meeting with any remarkable occurrence till near noon on the

6th, when it fell calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 27° 50ʹ

S., longitude 171° 43ʹ E. The calm continued till noon the next day,

during which time we observed the variation to be 10° 33-1/2ʹ E. I now

ordered the carpenters to work to caulk the decks. As we had neither

pitch, tar, nor rosin, left to pay the seams, this was done with varnish

of pine, and afterwards covered with coral sand, which made a cement far

exceeding my expectation. In the afternoon, we had a boat in the water,

and shot two albatrosses, which were geese to us. We had seen one of

this kind of birds the day before, which was the first we observed since

we had been within the tropic. On the 7th, at one P. M., a breeze sprung

up at south; soon after it veered to, and fixed at S. E. by S., and blew

a gentle gale, attended with pleasant weather.

We stretched to W. S. W., and next day at noon were in the latitude of

28° 25ʹ, longitude 170° 26ʹ E. In the evening, Mr. Cooper having struck

a porpoise with a harpoon, it was necessary to bring to, and have two

boats out, before we could kill it, and get it on board. It was six feet

long; a female of that kind, which naturalists call dolphin of the

antients, and which differs from the other kind of porpoise in the head

and jaw, having them long and pointed. This had eighty-eight teeth in

each jaw. The haslet and lean flesh were to us a feast. The latter was a

little liverish, but had not the least fishy taste. It was eaten

roasted, broiled, and fried, first soaking it in warm water. Indeed

little art was wanting to make any thing fresh, palatable to those who

had been living so long on salt meat.

We continued to stretch to W. S. W. till the 10th, when, at day-break,

we discovered land bearing S. W., which on a nearer approach we found to

be an island of good height, and five leagues in circuit. I named it

Norfolk Isle, in honour of the noble family of Howard. It is situated in

the latitude of 29° 2ʹ 30ʺ S., and longitude 168° 16ʹ E. The latter was

determined by lunar observations made on this, the preceding, and

following days; and the former, by a good observation at noon, when we

were about three miles from the isle. Soon after we discovered the isle

we sounded in twenty-two fathoms on a bank of coral sand; after this we

continued to sound, and found not less than twenty-two, or more than

twenty-four fathoms (except near the shore), and the same bottom mixed

with broken shells. After dinner, a party of us embarked in two boats,

and landed on the island, without any difficulty, behind some large

rocks which lined part of the coast on the N. E. side.

We found it uninhabited, and were undoubtedly the first that ever set

foot on it. We observed many trees and plants common at New Zealand;

and, in particular, the flax plant, which is rather more luxuriant here

than in any part of that country; but the chief produce is a sort of

spruce pine, which grows in great abundance, and to a large size, many

of the trees being as thick, breast high, as two men could fathom, and

exceedingly straight and tall. This pine is of a sort between that which

grows in New Zealand and that in New Caledonia; the foliage differing

something from both; and the wood not so heavy as the former, nor so

light and close-grained as the latter. It is a good deal like the Quebec

pine. For about two hundred yards from the shore the ground is covered

so thick with shrubs and plants, as hardly to be penetrated farther

inland. The woods were perfectly clear and free from underwood, and the

soil seemed rich and deep.

We found the same kind of pigeons, parrots, and paroquets as in New

Zealand, rails, and some small birds. The sea fowl are, white boobies,

gulls, tern, &c. which breed undisturbed on the shores, and in the

cliffs of the rocks.

On the isle is fresh water; and cabbage-palm, wood-sorrel, sow thistle,

and samphire abounding in some places on the shores; we brought on board

as much of each sort as the time we had to gather them would admit.

These cabbage-trees, or palms, were not thicker than a man’s leg, and

from ten to twenty feet high. They are of the same genus with the

cocoa-nut tree; like it, they have large pinnated leaves, and are the

same as the second sort found in the northern parts of New South

Wales.[13] The cabbage is, properly speaking, the bud of the tree; each

tree producing but one cabbage, which is at the crown, where the leaves

spring out, and is inclosed in the stem. The cutting off the cabbage

effectually destroys the tree; so that no more than one can be had from

the same stem. The cocoa-nut tree, and some others of the palm kind,

produce cabbage as well as these. This vegetable is not only wholesome,

but exceedingly palatable, and proved the most agreeable repast we had

for some time.

The coast does not want fish. While we were on shore, the people in the

boats caught some which were excellent. I judged that it was high water

at the full and change, about one o’clock, and that the tide rises and

falls upon a perpendicular about four or five feet.

The approach of night brought us all on board, when we hoisted in the

boats; and stretching to E. N. E. (with the wind at S. E.) till

midnight, we tacked, and spent the remainder of the night making short

boards.

Next morning, at sun-rise, we made sail, stretching to S. S. W., and

weathered the island, on the south side of which lie two isles, that

serve as roosting and breeding-places for birds. On this, as also on the

S. E. side, is a sandy beach; whereas most of the other shores are

bounded by rocky cliffs which have twenty and eighteen fathoms water

close to them; at least so we found it on the N. E. side, and with good

anchorage. A bank of coral sand, mixed with shells, on which we found

from nineteen to thirty-five or forty fathoms water, surrounds the isle,

and extends, especially to the south, seven leagues off. The morning we

discovered the island the variation was found to be 13° 9ʹ E.; but I

think this observation gave too much, as others, which we had both

before and after, gave 2° less.

After leaving Norfolk Isle, I steered for New Zealand, my intention

being to touch at Queen Charlotte’s Sound, to refresh my crew, and put

the ship in a condition to encounter the southern latitudes.

On the 17th, at day-break, we saw Mount Egmont, which was covered with

everlasting snow, bearing S. E. 1/2 E. Our distance from the shore was

about eight leagues, and, on sounding, we found seventy fathoms water, a

muddy bottom. The wind soon fixed in the western board, and blew a fresh

gale, with which we steered S. S. E. for Queen Charlotte’s Sound, with a

view of falling in with Cape Stephens. At noon Cape Egmont bore

E. N. E., distant three or four leagues; and though the mount was hid in

the clouds, we judged it to be in the same direction as the Cape;

latitude observed 39° 24ʹ. The wind increased in such a manner as to

oblige us to close reef our top-sails, and strike top-gallant yards. At

last we could bear no more sail than the two courses, and two

close-reefed top-sails; and under them we stretched for Cape Stephens,

which we made at eleven o’clock at night.

At midnight we tacked, and made a trip to the north till three o’clock

next morning, when we bore away for the sound. At nine we hauled round

Point Jackson, through a sea which looked terrible, occasioned by a

rapid tide and a high wind; but as we knew the coast, it did not alarm

us. At eleven o’clock we anchored before Ship Cove; the strong flurries

from off the land not permitting us to get in.

In the afternoon, as we could not move the ship, I went into the cove,

with the seine, to try to catch some fish. The first thing I did after

landing was to look for the bottle I left hid when last here, in which

was the memorandum. It was taken away; but by whom it did not appear.

Two hauls with the seine producing only four small fish, we, in some

measure, made up for this deficiency, by shooting several birds, which

the flowers in the garden had drawn thither, as also some old shags, and

by robbing the nests of some young ones.

Being little wind next morning, we weighed, and warped the ship into the

Cove, and there moored with the two bowers. We unbent the sails to

repair them, several having been split, and otherwise damaged in the

late gale. The main and four courses, already worn to the very utmost,

were condemned as useless. I ordered the top-masts to be struck and

unrigged, in order to fix to them moveable chocks or knees, for want of

which the trestle-trees were continually breaking; the forge to be set

up, to make bolts and repair our iron-work; and tents to be erected on

shore for the reception of a guard, coopers, sail-makers, &c. I likewise

gave orders that vegetables (of which there were plenty) should be

boiled every morning with oat-meal and portable broth for breakfast, and

with peas and broth every day for dinner for the whole crew, over and

above their usual allowance of salt malt.

In the afternoon, as Mr. Wales was setting up his observatory, he

discovered that several trees, which were standing when we last sailed

from this place, had been cut down with saws and axes; and a few days

after, the place where an observatory, clock, &c. had been set up, was

also found, in a spot different from that where Mr. Wales had placed

his. It was therefore now no longer to be doubted that the Adventure had

been in this cove after we had left it.

Next day, winds southerly, hazy cloudy weather. Every body went to work

at their respective employments, one of which was to caulk the ship’s

sides, a thing much wanted. The seams were paid with putty, made with

cook’s fat and chalk; the gunner happening to have a quantity of the

latter on board.

The 21st, wind southerly, with continual rains.

The weather being fair in the afternoon of the 22d, accompanied by the

botanists, I visited our gardens on Motuara, which we found almost in a

state of nature, having been wholly neglected by the inhabitants.

Nevertheless, many articles were in a flourishing condition, and showed

how well they liked the soil in which they were planted. None of the

natives having yet made their appearance, we made a fire on the point of

the island; in hopes, if they saw the smoke, they might be induced to

come to us.

Nothing remarkable happened till the 24th, when, in the morning, two

canoes were seen coming down the sound; but as soon as they perceived

the ship, they retired behind a point on the west side. After breakfast

I went in a boat to look for them; and as we proceeded along the shore,

we shot several birds. The report of the muskets gave notice of our

approach, and the natives discovered themselves in Shag Cove by

hallooing to us; but as we drew near to their habitations, they all fled

to the woods, except two or three men, who stood on a rising ground near

the shore, with their arms in their hands. The moment we landed, they

knew us. Joy then took place of fear, and the rest of the natives

hurried out of the woods, and embraced us over and over again, leaping

and skipping about like madmen; but I observed that they would not

suffer some women, whom we saw at a distance, to come near us. After we

had made them presents of hatchets, knives, and what else we had with

us, they gave us in return a large quantity of fish, which they had just

caught. There were only a few amongst them whose faces we could

recognise; and on our asking why they were afraid of us, and inquiring

for some of our old acquaintances by name, they talked much about

killing, which was so variously understood by us, that we could gather

nothing from it; so that, after a short stay, we took leave, and went on

board.

Next morning early, our friends, according to a promise they made us the

preceding evening, paying us a visit, brought with them a quantity of

fine fish, which they exchanged for Otaheitean cloth, &c. and then

returned to their habitations.

On the 26th we got into the after-hold four boatload of shingle ballast,

and struck down six guns, keeping only six on deck. Our good friends the

natives having brought us a plentiful supply of fish, afterwards went on

shore to the tents, and informed our people there, that a ship like ours

had been lately lost in the Strait; that some of the people got on

shore; and that the natives stole their clothes, &c. for which several

were shot; that afterwards, when they could fire no longer, the natives

having got the better, killed them with their _Patapatoos_, and eat

them; but that they themselves had no hand in the affair, which, they

said, happened at Vanna Aroa, near Teerawhitte, on the other side of the

Strait. One man said it was two moons ago; but another contradicted him,

and counted on his fingers about twenty or thirty days. They described

by actions how the ship was beat to pieces, by going up and down against

the rocks, till at last it was all scattered abroad.

The next day some others told the same story, or nearly to the same

purport, and pointed over the East Bay, which is on the east side of the

sound, as to the place where it happened. These stories making me very

uneasy about the Adventure, I desired Mr. Wales, and those on shore, to

let me know if any of the natives should mention it again, or to send

them to me; for I had not heard any thing from them myself. When Mr.

Wales came on board to dinner, he found the very people who had told him

the story on shore, and pointed them out to me. I inquired about the

affair, and endeavoured to come at the truth by every method I could

think of. All I could get from them was, _Caurey_ (no); and they not

only denied every syllable of what they had said on shore, but seemed

wholly ignorant of the matter; so that I began to think our people had

misunderstood them, and that the story referred to some of their own

people and boats.

On the 28th, fresh gales westerly, and fair weather. We rigged and

fitted the top-masts. Having gone on a shooting-party to West Bay, we

went to the place where I left the hogs and fowls; but saw no vestiges

of them, nor of any body having been there since. In our return, having

visited the natives, we got some fish in exchange for trifles which we

gave them. As we were coming away, Mr. Forster thought he heard the

squeaking of a pig in the woods, close by their habitations; probably,

they may have those I left with them when last here. In the evening we

got on board, with about a dozen and an half of wild fowl, shags, and

sea-pies. The sportsmen who had been out in the woods near the ship,

were more successful among the small birds.

On the 29th and 30th nothing remarkable happened, except that in the

evening of the latter all the natives left us.

The 31st being a fine pleasant day, our botanists went over to Long

Island, where one of the party saw a large black boar. As it was

described to me, I thought it to be one of those which Captain Furneaux

left behind, and had been brought over to this isle by those who had it

in keeping. Since they did not destroy those hogs when first in their

possession, we cannot suppose they will do it now; so that there is

little fear but that this country will, in time, be stocked with these

animals, both in a wild and domestic state.

Next day we were visited by a number of strangers, who came from up the

sound, and brought with them but little fish. Their chief commodity was

green stone or talc, an article which never came to a bad market; and

some of the largest pieces of it I had ever seen were got this day.

On the 2d I went over to the east side of the sound, and, without

meeting any thing remarkable, returned on board in the evening, when I

learnt that the same people who visited us the preceding day had been on

board most of this, with their usual article of trade.

On the 3d, Mr. Pickersgill met with some of the natives, who related to

him the story of a ship being lost, and the people being killed; but

added, with great earnestness, it was not done by them.

On the 4th fine pleasant weather. Most of the natives now retired up the

sound. Indeed, I had taken every gentle method to oblige them to be

gone; for since these new-comers had been with us, our old friends had

disappeared, and we had been without fish. Having gone over to Long

Island to look for the hog which had been seen there, I found it to be

one of the sows left by Captain Furneaux; the same that was in

possession of the natives when we were last here. From a supposition of

its being a boar, I had carried over a sow to leave with him; but on

seeing my mistake, brought her back, as the leaving her there would

answer no end.

Early in the morning of the 5th, our old friends made us a visit, and

brought a seasonable supply of fish. At the same time I embarked in the

pinnace with Messrs. Forsters and Sparrman, in order to proceed up the

sound. I was desirous of finding the termination of it; or rather, of

seeing if I could find any passage out to sea by the S. E., as I

suspected from some discoveries I had made when first here. In our way

up we met with some fishers, of whom we made the necessary inquiry; and

they all agreed that there was no passage to sea by the head of the

sound. As we proceeded, we some time after met a canoe, conducted by

four men, coming down the sound. These confirmed what the others had

said, in regard to there being no passage to sea the way we were going;

but gave us to understand that there was one to the east, in the very

place where I expected to find it. I now laid aside the scheme of going

to the head of the sound, and proceeded to this arm, which is on the

S. E. side, about four or five leagues above the Isle of Motuara.

A little within the entrance on the S. E. side, at a place called

Kotieghenooee, we found a large settlement of the natives. The chief;

whose name was Tringo-boohee, and his people, whom we found to be some

of those who had lately been on board the ship, received us with great

courtesy. They seemed to be pretty numerous both here and in the

neighbourhood. Our stay with them was short, as the information they

gave us encouraged us to pursue the object we had in view. Accordingly,

we proceeded down the arm E. N. E. and E. by N., leaving several fine

coves on both sides, and at last found it to open into the strait by a

channel about a mile wide, in which ran out a strong tide; having also

observed one setting down the arm, all the time we had been in it. It

was now about four o’clock in the afternoon; and in less than an hour

after, this tide ceased, and was succeeded by the flood, which came in

with equal strength.

The outlet lies S. E. by E., and N. W. by W., and nearly in the

direction of E. S. E., and W. N. W. from Cape Terrawhitte. We found

thirteen fathoms water a little within the entrance, clear ground. It

seemed to me that a leading wind was necessary to go in and out of this

passage, on account of the rapidity of the tides. I, however, had but

little time to make observations of this nature, as night was at hand,

and I had resolved to return on board. On that account, I omitted

visiting a large _hippa_, or strong-hold, built on an elevation on the

north side, and about a mile or two within the entrance. The inhabitants

of it, by signs, invited us to go to them; but, without paying any

regard to them, we proceeded directly for the ship, which we reached by

ten o’clock, bringing with us some fish we had got from the natives, and

a few birds we had shot. Amongst the latter, were some of the same kind

of ducks we found in Dusky Bay; and we have reason to believe that they

are all to be met with here. For the natives knew them all by the

drawings, and had a particular name for each.

On the 6th, wind at N. E., gloomy weather with rain. Our old friends

having taken up their abode near us, one of them, whose name was Pedero,

(a man of some note,) made me a present of a staff of honour, such as

the chiefs generally carry. In return, I dressed him in a suit of old

clothes, of which he was not a little proud. He had a fine person and a

good presence; and nothing but his colour distinguished him from an

European. Having got him and another into a communicative mood, we began

to enquire of them if the Adventure had been there during my absence,

and they gave us to understand in a manner that admitted of no doubt,

that soon after we were gone she arrived, that she staid between ten and

twenty days, and had been gone ten months. They likewise asserted, that

neither she nor any other ship had been stranded on the coast, as had

been reported. This assertion, and the manner in which they related the

coming and going of the Adventure, made me easy about her; but did not

wholly set aside our suspicions of a disaster having happened to some

other strangers. Besides what has been already related, we had been told

that a ship had lately been here, and was gone to a place called Terato,

which is on the north side of the Strait. Whether this story related to

the former or no, I cannot say. Whenever I questioned the natives about

it, they always denied all knowledge of it; and for some time past had

avoided mentioning it. It was but a few days before, that one man

received a box on the ear for naming it to some of our people.

After breakfast, I took a number of hands over to Long-Island, in order

to catch the sow, to put her to the boar, and remove her to some other

place; but we returned without seeing her. Some of the natives had been

there not long before us, as their fires were yet burning; and they had

undoubtedly taken her away. Pedero dined with us, ate of every thing at

table, and drank more wine than any one of us, without being in the

least affected by it.

The 7th, fresh gales at N. E. with continual rain.

The 8th, fore-part rain, remainder fair weather. We put two pigs, a boar

and a sow, on shore, in the cove next without Cannibal Cove; so that it

is hardly possible all the methods I have taken to stock this country

with these animals should fail. We had also reason to believe that some

of the cocks and hens which I left here still existed, although we had

not seen any of them; for an hen’s egg was, some days before, found in

the woods almost new laid.

On the 9th, wind westerly or N. W. squally, with rain. In the morning we

unmoored, and shifted our birth farther out of the cove, for the more

ready getting to sea the next morning; for, at present, the caulkers had

not finished the sides, and till this work was done we could not sail.

Our friends having brought us a very large and seasonable supply of

fish, I bestowed on Pedero a present of an empty oil-jar, which made him

as happy as a prince. Soon after, he and his party left the cove, and

retired to their proper place of abode, with all the treasure they had

received from us. I believe that they gave away many of the things they,

at different times, got from us, to their friends, and neighbours, or

else parted with them to purchase peace of their more powerful enemies;

for we never saw any of our presents after they were once in their

possession; and every time we visited them they were as much in want of

hatchets, nails, &c. to all appearance, as if they never had had any

among them.

I am satisfied that the people in this Sound, who are, upon the whole,

pretty numerous, are under no regular form of government, or so united

as to form one body politic. The head of each tribe, or family, seems to

be respected; and that respect may, on some occasions, command

obedience; but I doubt if any amongst them have either a right or power

to enforce it. The day we were with Tringo-boohee, the people came from

all parts to see us, which he endeavoured to prevent. But though he went

so far as to throw stones at some, I observed that very few paid any

regard either to his words or actions; and yet this man was spoken of as

a chief of some note. I have, before, made some remarks on the evils

attending these people for want of union among themselves; and the more

I was acquainted with them, the more I found it to be so.

Notwithstanding they are cannibals, they are naturally of a good

disposition, and have not a little humanity.

In the afternoon a party of us went ashore into one of the coves, where

were two families of the natives variously employed; some sleeping, some

making mats, others roasting fish and fir roots, and one girl, I

observed, was heating of stones. Curious to know what they were for, I

remained near her. As soon as the stones were made hot, she took them

out of the fire, and gave them to an old woman, who was sitting in the

hut. _She_ placed them in a heap, laid over them a handful of green

celery, and over that a coarse mat, and then squatted herself down, on

her heels, on the top of all; thus making a kind of Dutch warming-pan,

on which she sat as close as a hare on her seat. I should hardly have

mentioned this operation, if I had thought it had no other view than to

warm the old woman’s backside. I rather suppose it was intended to cure

some disorder she might have on her, which the steams arising from the

green celery might be a specific for. I was led to think so by there

being hardly any celery in the place, we having gathered it long before;

and grass, of which there was great plenty, would have kept the stones

from burning the mat full as well, if that had been all that was meant.

Besides, the woman looked to me sickly, and not in a good state of

health.

Mr. Wales from time to time communicated to me the observations he had

made in this Sound for determining the longitude, the mean results of

which give 174° 25ʹ 7ʺ 1/2 E. for the bottom of Ship Cove, where the

observations were made; and the latitude of it is 41° 5ʹ 56ʺ 1/2 S. In

my chart, constituted in my former voyage, this place is laid down in

184° 54ʹ 30ʺ West, equal to 175° 5ʹ 30ʺ E. The error of the chart is

therefore, 0° 40ʹ 0ʺ, and nearly equal to what was found at Dusky Bay;

by which it appears that the whole of Tavai-poenammoo is laid down 40ʹ

too far east in the said chart, as well as in the journal of the voyage.

But the error in Eaheino-mauwe is not more than half a degree, or thirty

minutes; because the distance between Queen Charlotte’s Sound and Cape

Palliser has been found to be greater by 10ʹ of longitude than it is

laid down in the chart. I mention these errors, not from a fear that

they will affect either navigation or geography, but because I have no

doubt of their existence; for, from the multitude of observations which

Mr. Wales took, the situation of few parts of the world is better

ascertained than Queen Charlotte’s Sound. Indeed, I might, with equal

truth, say the same of all the other places where we made any stay; for

Mr. Wales, whose abilities are equal to his assiduity, lost no one

observation that could possibly be obtained. Even the situation of those

islands which we passed without touching at them, is, by means of

Kendal’s watch, determined with almost equal accuracy. The error of the

watch from Otaheite to this place was only 43ʹ 39ʺ 1/4 in longitude,

reckoning at the rate it was found to go at, at that island and at

Tanna; but by reckoning at the rate it was going when last at Queen

Charlotte’s Sound, and from the time of our leaving it, to our return to

it again, which was near a year, the error was 19ʹ 31ʺ, 25 in time, or

4° 52ʹ 48ʺ 3/4 in longitude. This error cannot be thought great, if we

consider the length of time, and that we had gone over a space equal to

upwards of three-fourths of the equatorial circumference of the earth,

and through all the climates and latitudes from 9° to 71°. Mr. Wales

found its rate of going here to be that of gaining 12ʺ, 576, on mean

time, per day.

The mean result of all the observations he made for ascertaining the

variation of the compass and the dip of the south end of the needle, the

three several times we had been here, gave 14° 9ʹ 1/5 E. for the former,

and 64° 36ʺ 2/3 for the latter. He also found, from very accurate

observations, that the time of high-water preceded the moon’s southing,

on the full and change days, by three hours; and that the greatest rise

and fall of the water was five feet ten inches and a half; but there

were evident tokens on the beach of its having risen two feet higher

than it ever did in the course of his experiments.