CHAPTER X

THE HURRICANE

_March_ 1889

The so-called harbour of Apia is formed in part by a recess of the

coast-line at Matautu, in part by the slim peninsula of Mulinuu, and in

part by the fresh waters of the Mulivai and Vaisingano. The barrier

reef--that singular breakwater that makes so much of the circuit of

Pacific islands--is carried far to sea at Matautu and Mulinuu; inside of

these two horns it runs sharply landward, and between them it is burst

or dissolved by the fresh water. The shape of the enclosed anchorage may

be compared to a high-shouldered jar or bottle with a funnel mouth. Its

sides are almost everywhere of coral; for the reef not only bounds it to

seaward and forms the neck and mouth, but skirting about the beach, it

forms the bottom also. As in the bottle of commerce, the bottom is

re-entrant, and the shore-reef runs prominently forth into the basin and

makes a dangerous cape opposite the fairway of the entrance. Danger is,

therefore, on all hands. The entrance gapes three cables wide at the

narrowest, and the formidable surf of the Pacific thunders both outside

and in. There are days when speech is difficult in the chambers of

shore-side houses; days when no boat can land, and when men are broken

by stroke of sea against the wharves. As I write these words, three

miles in the mountains, and with the land-breeze still blowing from the

island summit, the sound of that vexed harbour hums in my ears. Such a

creek in my native coast of Scotland would scarce be dignified with the

mark of an anchor in the chart; but in the favoured climate of Samoa,

and with the mechanical regularity of the winds in the Pacific, it

forms, for ten or eleven months out of the twelve, a safe if hardly a

commodious port. The ill-found island traders ride there with their

insufficient moorings the year through, and discharge, and are loaded,

without apprehension. Of danger, when it comes, the glass gives timely

warning; and that any modern war-ship, furnished with the power of

steam, should have been lost in Apia, belongs not so much to nautical as

to political history.

The weather throughout all that winter (the turbulent summer of the

islands) was unusually fine, and the circumstance had been commented on

as providential, when so many Samoans were lying on their weapons in the

bush. By February it began to break in occasional gales. On February

10th a German brigantine was driven ashore. On the 14th the same

misfortune befell an American brigantine and a schooner. On both these

days, and again on the 7th March, the men-of-war must steam to their

anchors. And it was in this last month, the most dangerous of the

twelve, that man's animosities crowded that indentation of the reef with

costly, populous, and vulnerable ships.

I have shown, perhaps already at too great a length, how violently

passion ran upon the spot; how high this series of blunders and mishaps

had heated the resentment of the Germans against all other nationalities

and of all other nationalities against the Germans. But there was one

country beyond the borders of Samoa where the question had aroused a

scarce less angry sentiment. The breach of the Washington Congress, the

evidence of Sewall before a sub-committee on foreign relations, the

proposal to try Klein before a military court, and the rags of Captain

Hamilton's flag, had combined to stir the people of the States to an

unwonted fervour. Germany was for the time the abhorred of nations.

Germans in America publicly disowned the country of their birth. In

Honolulu, so near the scene of action, German and American young men

fell to blows in the street. In the same city, from no traceable source,

and upon no possible authority, there arose a rumour of tragic news to

arrive by the next occasion, that the _Nipsic_ had opened fire on the

_Adler_, and the _Adler_ had sunk her on the first reply. Punctually on

the day appointed, the news came; and the two nations, instead of being

plunged into war, could only mingle tears over the loss of heroes.

By the second week in March three American ships were in Apia bay,--the

_Nipsic_, the _Vandalia_, and the _Trenton_, carrying the flag of

Rear-Admiral Kimberley; three German,--the _Adler_, the _Eber_, and the

_Olga_; and one British,--the _Calliope_, Captain Kane. Six merchantmen,

ranging from twenty-five up to five hundred tons, and a number of small

craft, further encumbered the anchorage. Its capacity is estimated by

Captain Kane at four large ships; and the latest arrivals, the

_Vandalia_ and _Trenton_, were in consequence excluded, and lay without

in the passage. Of the seven war-ships, the seaworthiness of two was

questionable: the _Trenton's_, from an original defect in her

construction, often reported, never remedied--her hawse-pipes leading in

on the berth-deck; the _Eber's_, from an injury to her screw in the blow

of February 14th. In this overcrowding of ships in an open entry of the

reef, even the eye of the landsman could spy danger; and

Captain-Lieutenant Wallis of the _Eber_ openly blamed and lamented, not

many hours before the catastrophe, their helpless posture. Temper once

more triumphed. The army of Mataafa still hung imminent behind the town;

the German quarter was still daily garrisoned with fifty sailors from

the squadron; what was yet more influential, Germany and the States, at

least in Apia bay, were on the brink of war, viewed each other with

looks of hatred, and scarce observed the letter of civility. On the day

of the admiral's arrival, Knappe failed to call on him, and on the

morrow called on him while he was on shore. The slight was remarked and

resented, and the two squadrons clung more obstinately to their

dangerous station.

On the 15th the barometer fell to 29.11 in. by 2 P.M. This was the

moment when every sail in port should have escaped. Kimberley, who flew

the only broad pennant, should certainly have led the way: he clung,

instead, to his moorings, and the Germans doggedly followed his example:

semi-belligerents, daring each other and the violence of heaven. Kane,

less immediately involved, was led in error by the report of residents

and a fallacious rise in the glass; he stayed with the others, a

misjudgment that was like to cost him dear. All were moored, as is the

custom in Apia, with two anchors practically east and west, clear hawse

to the north, and a kedge astern. Topmasts were struck, and the ships

made snug. The night closed black, with sheets of rain. By midnight it

blew a gale; and by the morning watch, a tempest. Through what remained

of darkness, the captains impatiently expected day, doubtful if they

were dragging, steaming gingerly to their moorings, and afraid to steam

too much.

Day came about six, and presented to those on shore a seizing and

terrific spectacle. In the pressure of the squalls the bay was obscured

as if by midnight, but between them a great part of it was clearly if

darkly visible amid driving mist and rain. The wind blew into the

harbour mouth. Naval authorities describe it as of hurricane force. It

had, however, few or none of the effects on shore suggested by that

ominous word, and was successfully withstood by trees and buildings. The

agitation of the sea, on the other hand, surpassed experience and

description. Seas that might have awakened surprise and terror in the

midst of the Atlantic ranged bodily and (it seemed to observers) almost

without diminution into the belly of that flask-shaped harbour; and the

war-ships were alternately buried from view in the trough, or seen

standing on end against the breast of billows.

The _Trenton_ at daylight still maintained her position in the neck of

the bottle. But five of the remaining ships tossed, already close to the

bottom, in a perilous and helpless crowd; threatening ruin to each other

as they tossed; threatened with a common and imminent destruction on the

reefs. Three had been already in collision: the _Olga_ was injured in

the quarter, the _Adler_ had lost her bowsprit; the _Nipsic_ had lost

her smoke-stack, and was making steam with difficulty, maintaining her

fire with barrels of pork, and the smoke and sparks pouring along the

level of the deck. For the seventh war-ship the day had come too late;

the _Eber_ had finished her last cruise; she was to be seen no more save

by the eyes of divers. A coral reef is not only an instrument of

destruction, but a place of sepulture; the submarine cliff is profoundly

undercut, and presents the mouth of a huge antre in which the bodies of

men and the hulls of ships are alike hurled down and buried. The _Eber_

had dragged anchors with the rest; her injured screw disabled her from

steaming vigorously up; and a little before day she had struck the front

of the coral, come off, struck again, and gone down stern foremost,

oversetting as she went, into the gaping hollow of the reef. Of her

whole complement of nearly eighty, four souls were cast alive on the

beach; and the bodies of the remainder were, by the voluminous

outpouring of the flooded streams, scoured at last from the harbour, and

strewed naked on the seaboard of the island.

Five ships were immediately menaced with the same destruction. The

_Eber_ vanished--the four poor survivors on shore--read a dreadful

commentary on their danger; which was swelled out of all proportion by

the violence of their own movements as they leaped and fell among the

billows. By seven the _Nipsic_ was so fortunate as to avoid the reef and

beach upon a space of sand; where she was immediately deserted by her

crew, with the assistance of Samoans, not without loss of life. By

about eight it was the turn of the _Adler_. She was close down upon the

reef; doomed herself, it might yet be possible to save a portion of her

crew; and for this end Captain Fritze placed his reliance on the very

hugeness of the seas that threatened him. The moment was watched for

with the anxiety of despair, but the coolness of disciplined courage. As

she rose on the fatal wave, her moorings were simultaneously slipped;

she broached to in rising; and the sea heaved her bodily upward and cast

her down with a concussion on the summit of the reef, where she lay on

her beam-ends, her back broken, buried in breaching seas, but safe.

Conceive a table: the _Eber_ in the darkness had been smashed against

the rim and flung below; the _Adler_, cast free in the nick of

opportunity, had been thrown upon the top. Many were injured in the

concussion; many tossed into the water; twenty perished. The survivors

crept again on board their ship, as it now lay, and as it still remains,

keel to the waves, a monument of the sea's potency. In still weather,

under a cloudless sky, in those seasons when that ill-named ocean, the

Pacific, suffers its vexed shores to rest, she lies high and dry, the

spray scarce touching her--the hugest structure of man's hands within a

circuit of a thousand miles--tossed up there like a schoolboy's cap upon

a shelf; broken like an egg; a thing to dream of.

The unfriendly consuls of Germany and Britain were both that morning in

Matautu, and both displayed their nobler qualities. De Coetlogon, the

grim old soldier, collected his family and kneeled with them in an agony

of prayer for those exposed. Knappe, more fortunate in that he was

called to a more active service, must, upon the striking of the _Adler_,

pass to his own consulate. From this he was divided by the Vaisingano,

now a raging torrent, impetuously charioting the trunks of trees. A

kelpie might have dreaded to attempt the passage; we may conceive this

brave but unfortunate and now ruined man to have found a natural joy in

the exposure of his life; and twice that day, coming and going, he

braved the fury of the river. It was possible, in spite of the darkness

of the hurricane and the continual breaching of the seas, to remark

human movements on the _Adler_; and by the help of Samoans, always nobly

forward in the work, whether for friend or enemy, Knappe sought long to

get a line conveyed from shore, and was for long defeated. The shore

guard of fifty men stood to their arms the while upon the beach, useless

themselves, and a great deterrent of Samoan usefulness. It was perhaps

impossible that this mistake should be avoided. What more natural, to

the mind of a European, than that the Mataafas should fall upon the

Germans in this hour of their disadvantage? But they had no other

thought than to assist; and those who now rallied beside Knappe braved

(as they supposed) in doing so a double danger, from the fury of the sea

and the weapons of their enemies. About nine, a quarter-master swam

ashore, and reported all the officers and some sixty men alive but in

pitiable case; some with broken limbs, others insensible from the

drenching of the breakers. Later in the forenoon, certain valorous

Samoans succeeded in reaching the wreck and returning with a line; but

it was speedily broken; and all subsequent attempts proved unavailing,

the strongest adventurers being cast back again by the bursting seas.

Thenceforth, all through that day and night, the deafened survivors must

continue to endure their martyrdom and one officer died, it was supposed

from agony of mind, in his inverted cabin.

Three ships still hung on the next margin of destruction, steaming

desperately to their moorings, dashed helplessly together. The

_Calliope_ was the nearest in; she had the _Vandalia_ close on her port

side and a little ahead, the _Olga_ close a-starboard, the reef under

her heel; and steaming and veering on her cables, the unhappy ship

fenced with her three dangers. About a quarter to nine she carried away

the _Vandalia's_ quarter gallery with her jib-boom; a moment later, the

_Olga_ had near rammed her from the other side. By nine the _Vandalia_

dropped down on her too fast to be avoided, and clapped her stern under

the bowsprit of the English ship, the fastenings of which were burst

asunder as she rose. To avoid cutting her down, it was necessary for the

_Calliope_ to stop and even to reverse her engines; and her rudder was

at the moment--or it seemed so to the eyes of those on board--within ten

feet of the reef. "Between the _Vandalia_ and the reef" (writes Kane, in

his excellent report) "it was destruction." To repeat Fritze's

manoeuvre with the _Adler_ was impossible; the _Calliope_ was too

heavy. The one possibility of escape was to go out. If the engines

should stand, if they should have power to drive the ship against wind

and sea, if she should answer the helm, if the wheel, rudder, and gear

should hold out, and if they were favoured with a clear blink of weather

in which to see and avoid the outer reef--there, and there only, were

safety. Upon this catalogue of "ifs" Kane staked his all. He signalled

to the engineer for every pound of steam--and at that moment (I am told)

much of the machinery was already red-hot. The ship was sheered well to

starboard of the _Vandalia_, the last remaining cable slipped. For a

time--and there was no onlooker so cold-blooded as to offer a guess at

its duration--the _Calliope_ lay stationary; then gradually drew ahead.

The highest speed claimed for her that day is of one sea-mile an hour.

The question of times and seasons, throughout all this roaring business,

is obscured by a dozen contradictions; I have but chosen what appeared

to be the most consistent; but if I am to pay any attention to the time

named by Admiral Kimberley, the _Calliope_, in this first stage of her

escape, must have taken more than two hours to cover less than four

cables. As she thus crept seaward, she buried bow and stern alternately

under the billows.

In the fairway of the entrance the flagship _Trenton_ still held on. Her

rudder was broken, her wheel carried away; within she was flooded with

water from the peccant hawse-pipes; she had just made the signal "fires

extinguished," and lay helpless, awaiting the inevitable end. Between

this melancholy hulk and the external reef Kane must find a path.

Steering within fifty yards of the reef (for which she was actually

headed) and her foreyard passing on the other hand over the _Trenton's_

quarter as she rolled, the _Calliope_ sheered between the rival dangers,

came to the wind triumphantly, and was once more pointed for the sea and

safety. Not often in naval history was there a moment of more sickening

peril, and it was dignified by one of those incidents that reconcile the

chronicler with his otherwise abhorrent task. From the doomed flagship

the Americans hailed the success of the English with a cheer. It was led

by the old admiral in person, rang out over the storm with holiday

vigour, and was answered by the Calliopes with an emotion easily

conceived. This ship of their kinsfolk was almost the last external

object seen from the _Calliope_ for hours; immediately after, the mists

closed about her till the morrow. She was safe at sea again--_una de

multis_--with a damaged foreyard, and a loss of all the ornamental work

about her bow and stern, three anchors, one kedge-anchor, fourteen

lengths of chain, four boats, the jib-boom, bobstay, and bands and

fastenings of the bowsprit.

Shortly after Kane had slipped his cable, Captain Schoonmaker,

despairing of the _Vandalia_, succeeded in passing astern of the _Olga_,

in the hope to beach his ship beside the _Nipsic_. At a quarter to

eleven her stern took the reef, her hand swung to starboard, and she

began to fill and settle. Many lives of brave men were sacrificed in the

attempt to get a line ashore; the captain, exhausted by his exertions,

was swept from deck by a sea; and the rail being soon awash, the

survivors took refuge in the tops.

Out of thirteen that had lain there the day before, there were now but

two ships afloat in Apia harbour, and one of these was doomed to be the

bane of the other. About 3 P.M. the _Trenton_ parted one cable, and

shortly after a second. It was sought to keep her head to wind with

storm-sails and by the ingenious expedient of filling the rigging with

seamen; but in the fury of the gale, and in that sea, perturbed alike by

the gigantic billows and the volleying discharges of the rivers, the

rudderless ship drove down stern foremost into the inner basin; ranging,

plunging, and striking like a frightened horse; drifting on destruction

for herself and bringing it to others. Twice the _Olga_ (still well

under command) avoided her impact by the skilful use of helm and

engines. But about four the vigilance of the Germans was deceived, and

the ships collided; the _Olga_ cutting into the _Trenton's_ quarters,

first from one side, then from the other, and losing at the same time

two of her own cables. Captain von Ehrhardt instantly slipped the

remainder of his moorings, and setting fore and aft canvas, and going

full steam ahead, succeeded in beaching his ship in Matautu; whither

Knappe, recalled by this new disaster, had returned. The berth was

perhaps the best in the harbour, and von Ehrhardt signalled that ship

and crew were in security.

The _Trenton_, guided apparently by an under-tow or eddy from the

discharge of the Vaisingano, followed in the course of the _Nipsic_ and

_Vandalia_, and skirted south-eastward along the front of the shore

reef, which her keel was at times almost touching. Hitherto she had

brought disaster to her foes; now she was bringing it to friends. She

had already proved the ruin of the _Olga_, the one ship that had rid out

the hurricane in safety; now she beheld across her course the submerged

_Vandalia_, the tops filled with exhausted seamen. Happily the approach

of the _Trenton_ was gradual, and the time employed to advantage.

Rockets and lines were thrown into the tops of the friendly wreck; the

approach of danger was transformed into a means of safety; and before

the ships struck, the men from the _Vandalia's_ main and mizzen masts,

which went immediately by the board in the collision, were already

mustered on the _Trenton's_ decks. Those from the foremast were next

rescued; and the flagship settled gradually into a position alongside

her neighbour, against which she beat all night with violence. Out of

the crew of the _Vandalia_ forty-three had perished; of the four hundred

and fifty on board the _Trenton_, only one.

The night of the 16th was still notable for a howling tempest and

extraordinary floods of rain. It was feared the wreck could scarce

continue to endure the breaching of the seas; among the Germans, the

fate of those on board the _Adler_ awoke keen anxiety; and Knappe, on

the beach of Matautu, and the other officers of his consulate on that of

Matafele, watched all night. The morning of the 17th displayed a scene

of devastation rarely equalled: the _Adler_ high and dry, the _Olga_ and

_Nipsic_ beached, the _Trenton_ partly piled on the _Vandalia_ and

herself sunk to the gun-deck; no sail afloat; and the beach heaped high

with the _debris_ of ships and the wreck of mountain forests. Already,

before the day, Seumanu, the chief of Apia, had gallantly ventured forth

by boat through the subsiding fury of the seas, and had succeeded in

communicating with the admiral; already, or as soon after as the dawn

permitted, rescue lines were rigged, and the survivors were with

difficulty and danger begun to be brought to shore. And soon the

cheerful spirit of the admiral added a new feature to the scene.

Surrounded as he was by the crews of two wrecked ships, he paraded the

band of the _Trenton_, and the bay was suddenly enlivened with the

strains of "Hail Columbia."

During a great part of the day the work of rescue was continued, with

many instances of courage and devotion; and for a long time succeeding,

the almost inexhaustible harvest of the beach was to be reaped. In the

first employment, the Samoans earned the gratitude of friend and foe; in

the second, they surprised all by an unexpected virtue, that of honesty.

The greatness of the disaster, and the magnitude of the treasure now

rolling at their feet, may perhaps have roused in their bosoms an

emotion too serious for the rule of greed, or perhaps that greed was

for the moment satiated. Sails that twelve strong Samoans could scarce

drag from the water, great guns (one of which was rolled by the sea on

the body of a man, the only native slain in all the hurricane), an

infinite wealth of rope and wood, of tools and weapons, tossed upon the

beach. Yet I have never heard that much was stolen; and beyond question,

much was very honestly returned. On both accounts, for the saving of

life and the restoration of property, the government of the United

States showed themselves generous in reward. A fine boat was fitly

presented to Seumanu; and rings, watches, and money were lavished on all

who had assisted. The Germans also gave money at the rate (as I receive

the tale) of three dollars a head for every German saved. The obligation

was in this instance incommensurably deep, those with whom they were at

war had saved the German blue-jackets at the venture of their lives;

Knappe was, besides, far from ungenerous; and I can only explain the

niggard figure by supposing it was paid from his own pocket. In one

case, at least, it was refused. "I have saved three Germans," said the

rescuer; "I will make you a present of the three."

The crews of the American and German squadrons were now cast, still in a

bellicose temper, together on the beach. The discipline of the Americans

was notoriously loose; the crew of the _Nipsic_ had earned a character

for lawlessness in other ports; and recourse was had to stringent and

indeed extraordinary measures. The town was divided in two camps, to

which the different nationalities were confined. Kimberley had his

quarter sentinelled and patrolled. Any seaman disregarding a challenge

was to be shot dead; any tavern-keeper who sold spirits to an American

sailor was to have his tavern broken and his stock destroyed. Many of

the publicans were German; and Knappe, having narrated these rigorous

but necessary dispositions, wonders (grinning to himself over his

despatch) how far these Americans will go in their assumption of

jurisdiction over Germans. Such as they were, the measures were

successful. The incongruous mass of castaways was kept in peace, and at

last shipped in peace out of the islands.

Kane returned to Apia on the 19th, to find the _Calliope_ the sole

survivor of thirteen sail. He thanked his men, and in particular the

engineers, in a speech of unusual feeling and beauty, of which one who

was present remarked to another, as they left the ship, "This has been a

means of grace." Nor did he forget to thank and compliment the admiral;

and I cannot deny myself the pleasure of transcribing from Kimberley's

reply some generous and engaging words. "My dear captain," he wrote,

"your kind note received. You went out splendidly, and we all felt from

our hearts for you, and our cheers came with sincerity and admiration

for the able manner in which you handled your ship. We could not have

been gladder if it had been one of our ships, for in a time like that I

can truly say with old Admiral Josiah Latnall, 'that blood _is_ thicker

than water.'" One more trait will serve to build up the image of this

typical sea-officer. A tiny schooner, the _Equator_, Captain Edwin Reid,

dear to myself from the memories of a six months' cruise, lived out upon

the high seas the fury of that tempest which had piled with wrecks the

harbour of Apia, found a refuge in Pango-Pango, and arrived at last in

the desolated port with a welcome and lucrative cargo of pigs. The

admiral was glad to have the pigs; but what most delighted the man's

noble and childish soul, was to see once more afloat the colours of his

country.

Thus, in what seemed the very article of war, and within the duration of

a single day, the sword-arm of each of the two angry Powers was broken;

their formidable ships reduced to junk; their disciplined hundreds to a

horde of castaways, fed with difficulty, and the fear of whose

misconduct marred the sleep of their commanders. Both paused aghast;

both had time to recognise that not the whole Samoan Archipelago was

worth the loss in men and costly ships already suffered. The so-called

hurricane of March 16th made thus a marking epoch in world-history;

directly, and at once, it brought about the congress and treaty of

Berlin; indirectly, and by a process still continuing, it founded the

modern navy of the States. Coming years and other historians will

declare the influence of that.

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