10th.

Finished repairs and got everything ready for a good start to-morrow

morning, when we will follow my brother's and Pierre's tracks. Cloudy

day, but barometer does not fall. Marked a tree F 59, being our 59th

bivouac from Geraldton. Hung up on the same tree four pack-bags and one

pack-saddle frame. Barometer 28.56; thermometer 74 degrees at 5 p.m.

Tommy Windich shot a red kangaroo this afternoon, and also found a fine

rock water-hole about one mile North-East of camp.

11th.

Followed on the tracks of my brother and Pierre, south seven miles to a

rough broken range--spinifex and rough grass all the way. Thence we

turned South-East for three miles; then North-East and East over most

wretched spinifex plains for nine miles, when we got on to a narrow

grassy flat, and, following it along about four miles, came to some water

in a clay-pan, sufficient for the night, and camped. With the exception

of this narrow flat the country passed over to-day is most miserable and

worthless, and very dusty. Another hot day. Barometer 28.70; thermometer

67 degrees at 5 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 52 minutes 30 seconds South.

12th (Sunday.).

Our horses finished all the water. We got off early, and, steering east,

followed my brother's and Pierre's tracks for eight miles, when we

reached a low rise, and a fine rock water-hole holding over a hundred

gallons of water. While we were watering our horses we heard gunshots,

and soon beheld my brother and Pierre returning. They had good news for

us, having found some springs about twenty-five miles to the eastward.

They had seen many natives; but for an account of their proceedings I

insert a copy of his journal. Barometer 28.60; thermometer 60 degrees. We

camped for the day. Latitude 25 degrees 53 minutes 23 seconds South. Read

Divine Service.

A. FORREST'S JOURNAL.

July 10th.

Steered east from the rock hole for the first fifteen miles, over clear

open sand-plains and red sand-hills covered with spinifex; then

South-South-East for ten miles over similar country to a rough range;

after going nearly all round it only found about one gallon of water. As

my horse was very tired, I almost gave up all hopes of finding any, as it

would take us all our time to get back; however, I went South-East for

seven miles further, and found about fifty gallons in a rock hole, but

not a blade of grass near it. As it was nearly dark, and no feed near, I

bore south for a low range about five miles distant, and found a little

feed but no water, and camped. My horse completely gave in; I had great

difficulty in getting him to the range.

11th.

Again bore west on our return to meet the party. After going seven miles

we saw a beautiful piece of feeding country--the first we had seen for

the last 130 miles--and after looking for water, and our fondest hopes

beginning to fail, we at last followed what seemed to be the largest

gully to its head, when we were gratified in beholding abundance of

water, with several springs, and good feed in the flats below. My horse

was completely knocked up, and I was glad to be able to give him a rest.

After being an hour here, Pierre, who is always on the look-out, saw two

natives, fully armed and in war costume, making for us. I was soon on my

legs and made towards them, but as soon as they saw us they began to move

off, and were soon out of sight in the thicket. At two o'clock continued

on West-North-West for twelve miles, camped in a thicket, and, after

taking off our saddles and making a fire, were very much surprised to

find a party of eight or nine natives going to camp close to us, and a

number more coming down the hill. As it was just dark we thought it best

to move on a few miles, which we did after dark. I believe, myself, they

intend attacking us after dark.

A. FORREST.

13th.

Steering straight for the water found by my brother, about

East-South-East for twenty-five miles, over most miserable spinifex

country, without a break. Just before we got to the water Windich shot an

emu. We saw two natives, who made off. Many fires in every direction.

Latitude 26 degrees 5 minutes 10 seconds South, longitude about 124

degrees 46 minutes East. Fine water at this place. I have no doubt water

is always here. I named it the Alexander Spring, after my brother, who

discovered it. Abundance of water also in rock holes.

14th.

Rested at Alexander Spring. Eating emu was our chief occupation to-day, I

think. Weather cloudy. Barometer 28.75; thermometer 60 degrees at 5 p.m.

NATIVES' GRAVES.

15th.

Rested at Alexander Spring. Went for a walk to a flat-topped hill about

South-South-East 50 chains from camp, which I have since named Mount

Allott, and placed a cairn on it; another hill close by I named Mount

Worsnop, after respectively the Mayor and Town Clerk of Adelaide. Found

two natives' graves close to camp; they were apparently about two feet

deep, and covered with boughs and wood; they are the first I have ever

seen in all my travels to the eastward in Australia, and Windich says he

has never come across one before either. We also found about a dozen

pieces of wood, some six feet long and three to seven inches wide, and

carved and trimmed up. All around were stones put up in the forked trees.

I believe it is the place where the rite of circumcision is performed.

Barometer 28.84; thermometer 60 degrees at 5 p.m.

16th.

Left Alexander Spring, in company with Windich, to look for water ahead.

Steered east for twelve miles, over spinifex sand-hills with some

salt-marsh flats intervening. We then turned South-East for seven miles

to some cliffs, and followed them along east about one mile and a half,

when we saw a clear patch a little to the North-East, on reaching which

we found a fine rock water-hole holding over 100 gallons of water. We had

a pannican of tea, and gave our horses an hour and a half's rest. Left a

note for my brother, advising him to camp here the first night. We

continued on a little to the south of east for about fifteen miles over

spinifex plains, when we camped on a small patch of feed. Saw a fire

about three quarters of a mile south of our camp, and supposed that

natives were camped there.

17th.

Early this morning we proceeded to where we saw the fire last night, but

could not find any natives: it must have been some spinifex burning. We

continued about east for two miles; found a rock water-hole holding about

fifty gallons, and had breakfast. After this, continued on a little south

of east for twelve miles, when we turned more to the north, searching

every spinifex rise that had a rocky face, first North and then

North-West and West, all over the country, but not over any great extent,

as my horse (Brick) was knocked up. About one o'clock we found enough to

give the horses a drink, and to make some tea for ourselves. We saw some

low cliffs to the north, and proceeding towards them we saw ahead about

North-North-East a remarkable high cliff. I therefore decided to make for

it. I had to walk and drive my horse before me, and before we reached the

cliff we had hard work to get him to move. When we got close we were

rejoiced to see cliffs and gorges without end, and descending the first

hollow found a fine rock hole containing at least 250 gallons. We

therefore camped, as it was just sundown. I am very sanguine of finding

more water to-morrow, as our horses will soon finish this hole. There was

very little feed about the water.

SEARCHING FOR WATER.

18th.

This morning we began searching the ranges for water. First tried

westerly, and searched some fine gullies and gorges, but without success.

My horse soon gave in again, and I left him on a patch of feed and

continued the search on foot. I had not walked a quarter of a mile before

I found about 200 gallons in a gully, and, following down the gully, we

found a fine pool in a sandy bed, enough to last a month. We were

rejoiced at our good fortune, and, returning to where we left the horse,

camped for the remainder of the day. There is not much feed anywhere

about these cliffs and gullies, but as long as there is plenty of water

the horses will do very well. To-morrow I intend going back to meet the

party, as the way we came was very crooked, and I hope to save them many

miles. It is certainly a wretched country we have been travelling through

for the last two months, and, what makes it worse, the season is an

exceptionally dry one; it is quite summer weather. However, we are now

within 100 miles of Mr. Gosse's farthest west, and I hope soon to see a

change for the better. We have been most fortunate in finding water, and

I am indeed very thankful for it.

19th (Sunday).

Started back to meet the party, leaving old Brick hobbled, and my saddle,

rug, etc., hidden in a tree. After travelling about twenty miles, met the

party coming all right. Everything had gone on well during my absence.

They had slept last night at the rock hole, where we stayed on the 16th,

and found sufficient water for the horses in it. The note I left had been

taken away by the natives, who were very numerous about there. Many

tracks were seen, following mine and Windich's for several miles. The

party had not, however, seen any of them. They were rejoiced to hear of

the water ahead, and we steered for it, keeping to the west of our return

route to search some cliffs on the way for water. After travelling nine

miles we camped without water, on a grassy flat close to some cliffs;

most miserable spinifex country all day; this is the first grass seen.

Walked over twenty miles to-day myself.

20th.

Steered North-East straight for the water found on the 18th for fourteen

miles; reached it and camped. Found the horse Brick I left behind, and

saddle, rug, etc., as we left them. Horses were very thirsty, but there

is plenty of water for them. Feed is rather scarce. I named this creek

and pool after the Honourable Arthur Blyth, Chief Secretary of South

Australia.

21st.

Rested at camp. I took observations for time, intending to take several

sets of lunars, but the day was cloudy, and I only managed to get one.

Intend going ahead to-morrow in search of water.

22nd.

Started in company with Pierre to look for water ahead, steered a little

north of east for about twelve miles to the points of the cliffs, and

ascended a peak to get a view ahead. The line of cliff country ran

North-East, and to the east, spinifex undulating country; nevertheless,

as I wished to get a view of some of the hills shown on Mr. Gosse's map,

I bore East and East-South-East for over thirty miles, but could not find

a drop of water all day, and we had come nearly fifty miles. Camped on a

small patch of feed. Very undulating spinifex country, and no place that

would hold water, even after rain, for more than a day or two.

23rd.

Decided not to go any further, although I much wished to get a view

further to the east, but our horses would have enough to do to carry us

back. Steered north for a few miles, and then North-West for twenty

miles, thence West-South-West to camp, which we reached after dark, not

having had any water for ourselves or horses since we left it yesterday

morning. The weather was very warm, and our horses were done up when they

reached camp. On our return we got a fine view to the North-East, which

looks more promising. My brother and Windich intend going to-morrow in

that direction in search of water.

24th.

My brother and Windich started in search of water. We rested at camp.

Took lunar observations, but did not get results which I care much to

rely on, owing to the distances being too great.

25th.

Rested at camp. My brother and Windich did not return, so I have good

hopes that they have found water ahead. Took several sets of lunars this

evening. Barometer 28.80 at 5 p.m.; warm weather.

26th (Sunday).

Rested at camp. My brother and Windich returned late this evening, having

been over sixty miles to the East-North-East, and having found only one

small rock water-hole with water in it. Many rock holes had been seen,

but all dry. They had met several natives. One woman and child they had

caught and talked to. She did not seem frightened, and ate readily the

damper and sugar given her. The country appears more parched than it has

been, which I had thought scarcely possible. A range and flat-topped hill

were seen about fifteen miles to the east of their farthest point, but

they were unable to reach it. Barometer 28.70; fine.

27th.

Rested at Blyth Pool. Intend going a flying trip to-morrow. Worked out

several lunar observations, and the position of Blyth Pool is in latitude

26 degrees 1 minute, 50 seconds South, longitude 125 degrees 27 minutes

East. Barometer 28.72; thermometer 67 degrees at 5 p.m.

28th.

Left camp in company with Windich to look for water ahead, taking a

pack-horse and ten gallons of water, besides two small tins for our own

use. Steered North-East nearly along my brother's tracks for twenty

miles, and reached the water in the rock hole seen by him, and had

dinner. In the afternoon continued on a little south of east for about

seven miles. Camped without water for the horses on a small patch of old

feed. The weather is dark and cloudy, and there is much thunder about. I

expect rain this evening; if it comes it will be a great boon, and will

enable us to travel on easily.

TODD RANGE.

29th.

Rained lightly during the night; my rug got wet. Thinking we could get

plenty of water ahead, I left the drums and water, as the horses would

not drink. We steered about east over miserable spinifex country, and cut

my brother's return tracks. Passed a rock hole seen by him, and found

only a few pints of water in it, proving to us that very little rain had

fallen. We sighted the range and hill seen by my brother, and reached it

at sundown. I have named it the Todd Range, and the highest hill, which

is table-topped, I have named Mount Charles, after Mr. C. Todd, C.M.G.,

Postmaster-General of South Australia. No sign of water, and apparently

very little rain has fallen here last night. Found an old natives'

encampment, and two splendid rock holes quite dry; if full they would

hold 700 or 800 gallons. Was very disappointed at this, and it being now

after dark we camped without water for the horses, having travelled over

forty miles. Before we reached the range we had most miserable spinifex

sand-hills. Scarcely any feed in the range, and spinifex everywhere. What

grass there is must be over two years old.

30th.

Very thick fog this morning. We bore north for four or five miles, and

then South-East for about five miles, when we got a fine view to the

east, and could see some hills, which are no doubt near Mr. Gosse's

farthest west. They bore South-East about eighteen miles distant. I could

not go on to them, as I was afraid the party would be following us, on

the strength of the little rain we had the night before last.

Reluctantly, therefore, we turned westward, and soon after came to an old

native encampment with a rock hole quite dry, which would hold 1000

gallons if full. It must be a long while since there has been rain, or it

would not have been dry. We continued on, searching up and down and

through the Todd Ranges, finding enough for our horses from the rain.

Late in the afternoon we found another camping-place with four rock holes

quite empty, which, if full, would hold 3000 or 4000 gallons at least.

This was very disheartening, and we felt it very much. It appeared to us

that there was no water in this country at this season, and we felt it

was useless looking for it. We now decided to make back towards the

party; but being uncertain that my brother would not follow, on the

strength of the rain, determined to bear South-West until we struck our

outward tracks. After going six miles, camped without water, and nothing

but some old coarse scrub for the horses. One good shower of rain would

enable us to get over this country easily; but in this season, without

rain, it is quite impossible to move a number of horses.

A NATIVE HUSBAND.

31st.

Steering about South-East towards our outward tracks, came across a

native with his wife and two children, the youngest about two years old.

As soon as they saw us, the man, who had a handful of spears, began

talking at us and then ran off (the eldest child following him), leaving

his wife and the youngest child to take care of themselves. The child was

carried on its mother's back, and hung on without any assistance. Thus

encumbered, the woman could not get away. She evidently preferred facing

any danger to parting with her child. Windich spoke to her, and she

talked away quietly, and did not seem much afraid. We could not

understand anything she said, so allowed her to follow her husband, who

certainly did not come up to our standard of gallantry. We continued on

until we reached our outward tracks, and I was much relieved to find that

the party had not gone on. We found a little water in a small rock hole,

and rested two hours, as our pack-horse (Little Brown) was knocked up. We

continued on about five miles, and camped on a patch of feed in a range,

without water. Little Brown was so knocked up that we had great

difficulty in getting him to walk.

August 1st.

Steering westerly for about eight miles, reached our bivouac of the 28th,

and gave our horses the water from the drums. Continued on, making

straight for camp; stayed two hours to give the horses a rest, and when

within fifteen miles of camp found a rock hole with about 100 gallons of

water in it. Little Brown completely gave in, and we were obliged to

leave him. Pushed on and reached the party a little after dark, and found

all well, having been absent five days, in which time we had travelled

about 200 miles.

2nd (Sunday).

My brother and Pierre went on a flying trip to the South-East in search

of water. Kennedy and myself went and brought Little Brown and

pack-saddle, etc., to camp. Windich shot an emu; saw about twenty.

Thermometer 95 degrees in sun during the day; barometer 28.62 at 5 p.m.

PREPARING FOR A STRUGGLE.

I now began to be much troubled about our position, although I did not

communicate my fears to any but my brother. We felt confident we could

return if the worst came, although we were over 1000 miles from the

settled districts of Western Australia. The water at our camp was fast

drying up, and would not last more than a fortnight. The next water was

sixty miles back, and there seemed no probability of getting eastward. I

knew we were now in the very country that had driven Mr. Gosse back. I

have since found it did the same for Mr. Giles. No time was to be lost. I

was determined to make the best use of it if only the water would last,

and to keep on searching. (Even now, months after the time, sitting down

writing this journal, I cannot but recall my feelings of anxiety at this

camp.) Just when the goal of my ambition and my hopes for years past was

almost within reach, it appeared that I might not even now be able to

grasp it. The thought of having to return, however, brought every feeling

of energy and determination to my rescue, and I felt that, with God's

help, I would even now succeed. I gave instructions to allowance the

party, so that the stores should last at least four months, and made

every preparation for a last desperate struggle.

3rd.

Rested at camp. My brother and Pierre did not return this evening, so I

concluded they must have found some water for their horses. Barometer

falling slowly; getting cloudy towards evening.

4th.

A light shower of rain this morning. Rested at camp. My brother and

Pierre returned this evening, having found a few small rock water-holes,

but not sufficient to shift on. They had been about fifty miles

East-South-East, and had passed over most miserable spinifex country the

whole way. They had not had any rain, not even the light shower we had

this morning. They had seen four natives, but did not get near enough to

talk to them. I intend going with Windich ahead to-morrow, in the hope

that rain may have fallen last night to the East-North-East. The weather,

which had looked threatening all day, cleared off this evening. Barometer

28.56.

THE BAKER RANGE.

5th.

Thinking that rain might have fallen to the North-East, I left camp with

Windich to ascertain, instructing my brother to follow on the 7th; before

leaving to bury some flour and everything that could be dispensed with,

and to carry all the drums full of water. He has since informed me that

he buried on left bank of brook, seven yards north of a small tree with a

tin plate nailed on it, on which is written, DIG 7 yds. N., two

pack-bags, containing 135 pounds flour, six leather water-bottles, two

tomahawks, one pick, one water canteen, one broken telescope, three emu

eggs, some girths and straps, one shoeing hammer, one pound of candles,

and left a lantern hanging on a tree. A bottle was also buried, with a

letter in it, giving the latitude and longitude of the camp, and a brief

outline of our former and future intended movements. We reached the rock

holes about North-East twenty miles, and were delighted to see them full,

besides plenty on the rocks. This was very encouraging, and after resting

two hours we pushed on East-North-East, to a range visited by my brother

on his last flying trip, and which I named the Baker Range, and the

highest point Mount Samuel, after Sir Samuel Baker, the great African

Explorer, and could see that lately rain had fallen, although much more

in some places than in others. Travelled till after dark through and over

spinifex plains, wooded with acacia and mulga scrub, and camped without

water and only a little scrub for the horses, having travelled nearly

forty miles.

6th.

Our horses strayed during the night. After we had found them we proceeded

to the Baker Range and found water in a gully on some rocks, and the rock

holes seen by my brother and Windich on their former trip had also a good

deal in them. I was greatly delighted at this; there must have been a

good shower or two here. Before reaching water Windich shot a turkey,

which we roasted and ate for breakfast, not having had any tea last

night. We rested here about two hours. Continuing on East-North-East for

about sixteen miles, came to the four large rock holes seen by Windich

and myself on our former trip. They were quite dry, but, as we suspected,

there was a good deal of water in a rocky gully close by. About two miles

before we reached here we passed a rock hole full of water, about sixty

gallons. I left a note telling my brother to camp here on Sunday night,

and to follow on our tracks on Monday. We continued on about five miles,

and camped not far from Mount Charles, without water for the horses; but

they were not thirsty. So far we have been most fortunate, although there

is very little to fall back on should we be unable to proceed; in fact,

as soon as the surface water dries up it will be impossible. We are,

however, three days in advance of the party, and if we can get enough for

our two riding-horses we shall be able to stop them before there is any

great danger, although we may lose some of the horses.

7th.

Steered South-South-East for about four miles to two large rock holes

seen by Windich and myself on our former trip, but found them quite dry,

as before. Continued on South-East towards the hills seen by us formerly,

and, after travelling about ten miles, got a fine view of the country,

which looked splendid. High hills and ranges as far as could be seen to

the south and east, and we thought all our troubles were over. We pushed

on about East-South-East to a high hill about ten miles off, over red

sand-hills covered with spinifex. Country of the most miserable

description. We reached the hill, which I named Mount Harvest, after

Colonel Harvest, the Acting-Governor of Western Australia at the time of

our departure, and who took a great interest in the expedition. We

ascended the hill; more ranges and hills were seen--in fact, the whole

country was one mass of hills and ranges to the south, South-East, and

east. We followed down gullies and over hills, passing two rock holes

dry, until after dark, but could not find any water. The country is most

beautifully grassed, and is a great relief after travelling over so many

hundreds of miles of spinifex; but the season is very dry, and all the

gullies are dry. We camped for the night without water for ourselves or

horses. I have since learnt that these ranges were seen by Mr. Giles, and

were named the Warburton Ranges.

SIGNS OF WHITE MEN.

8th.

Early this morning Windich and I went on foot to search the hills and

gullies close around, as our horses were knocked up for want of water. We

returned unsuccessful about 8 o'clock. Close to where we found our horses

we found a tree with the bark cut off one side of it with an AXE which

was sharp. We were sure it was done by a white man, as the axe, even if

possessed by a native (which is very improbable), would be blunt. We are

now in the country traversed by Mr. Gosse, although I am unable to

distinguish any of the features of the country, not having a map with me,

and not knowing the latitude. Should we find water, and the party reach

here, there will no doubt be little difficulty in distinguishing the

hills. The country certainly does not answer the description given of his

farther westward. However, I will leave our position geographically for

the present, and treat of what is of much more importance to us, namely,

the finding of water. We saddled our horses and continued our search

about South-East, over hills and along valleys--the distance or direction

I am unable to give--our horses scarcely moving, and ourselves parched

with thirst. The sun was very hot. At about noon we found some water in a

gully by scratching a hole, but it was quite salt. As our horses would

not drink it, it can be imagined how salt it was. We drank about a pint

of it, and Windich said it was the first time he ever had to drink salt

water. I washed myself in it, which refreshed me a little. Our horses

could not go much further without water, but we crawled along about

north, and shortly afterwards found a small rock hole in the side of a

large rough granite hill, with about five gallons of good water in it. We

had a good drink ourselves, put half a gallon into a canteen, and gave

the rest to the horses. From here our usual good fortune returned. We had

not gone far when Windich called me back and said he had found horses'

tracks, and sure enough there were the tracks of horses coming from the

westward. Windich took some of the old dung with him to convince our

companions that we had seen them. We followed westward along the tracks

for half a mile, when we found two or three small rock holes with water

in them, which our horses drank. Still bearing to the north we kept

finding little drops in the granite rocks--our old friend the granite

rock has returned to us again, after having been absent for several

hundred miles. We satisfied our horses, and rested a short time to have

something to eat, not having had anything for forty-eight hours. We bore

North-West, and soon afterwards found a fine rock hole of water in

granite rocks, sufficient to last the party a day. Plenty of water on

rocks, also, from recent rain here. We were rejoiced, as we now had a

place to bring the party to. But our good fortune did not end here:

continuing on westerly or a little north of it, we came on a summer

encampment of the natives, and found a native well or spring, which I

believe would give water if dug out. This may make a good depot if we

require to stay long in this neighbourhood. We were overjoyed; and I need

not add I was very thankful for this good fortune. When everything looked

at its worst, then all seemed to change for our benefit. We camped two

miles from the water.

9th (Sunday).

Took the horses back to the water, and on our way there found a clay-pan

with a few hundred gallons of water in it. Started back to meet the

party, intending to await their arrival at the first range we came to on

our outward track. Steering a little north of west for fourteen miles, we

camped on west side of Mount Harvest, not having seen a drop of water on

our way. Luckily we brought nearly half a gallon with us, so shall be

able to manage until the party overtake us to-morrow. Our horses will be

very thirsty, but I will give them five gallons each out of the drums.

Shot a wurrung on our way, which we had for dinner. Found two fine rock

holes quite empty. There appears to have been no rain here, although

fifteen miles east there has been a good deal. I hope the change of moon

on the 11th will bring us some rain, as we shall then be able to travel

along easily. My personal appearance contrasts most strikingly with town

life--very dirty, and I may say ragged. I scarcely think my friends would

know me. Washing, or brushing one's hair is out of the question, unless

when resting at camp.

10th.

We stayed at our last night's bivouac until 12 o'clock, when we saddled

up and followed back along our outward tracks to meet the party, which we

expected to find this afternoon. About 3 o'clock met them coming on, all

well. They were all rejoiced to hear of the water ahead. We gave the

horses water out of the drums, and turned eastward with them. We reached

Mount Harvest by sundown, the party having travelled thirty miles, and

camped on grassy flat without water for the horses. Latitude 25 degrees

55 minutes 43 seconds South by Altair, longitude 126 degrees 32 minutes

East. Everything had gone on first-rate with the party. They had nearly

finished all the water at Mount Samuel, and in the Todd Range, so that we

cannot now turn back, even if we wished, unless with the risk of having

to go ninety or a hundred miles without water.

FINDING TRACKS.

11th.

Continued on to the water found ahead, and on our way saw some clay-holes

with water and satisfied the horses. When near the spring, saw natives'

tracks, and shortly afterwards a fire with a whole kangaroo roasting in

it. The natives had made off when they saw us, leaving their game

cooking. Continuing on, and passing the native well, we reached the

granite rocks, two miles from the spring, and camped. While having dinner

we saw two natives about a quarter of a mile from us, watching us; we

beckoned to them, and Windich and I approached them. As we neared them

they began talking and moving off slowly; we could not get close to them,

although they did not appear to be afraid of us. Some fine ranges are

visible from here South-East. Latitude of camp 25 degrees 54 minutes 53

seconds South, by meridian altitude of Altair. Marked a tree F 70, being

the 70th camp from Geraldton. Barometer 28.26 at 5 p.m. We are not in the

latitude of Mr. Gosse's track by fifteen miles, yet there are tracks only

about two miles south of us! I cannot account for this. The tracks may be

Mr. Giles's, as I cannot think Mr. Gosse could be out in his latitude.

12th.

Left camp with Tommy Windich to find water ahead, instructing my brother

to follow on to-morrow. We bore East-South-East for a few miles over

grassy flats towards some high hills, but, seeing what we supposed a good

spot for water, we turned east towards it, over miserable spinifex

sand-hills, and found some splendid granite rocks and holes, but not much

water--enough, however, to give the horses a drink. If there was rain,

there would be enough water here for a month or more. Near these rocks

found a tree resembling the figtree (Ficus Platypoda), with ripe fruit

about the size of a bullet, which tasted very much like a fig. I ate some

of the fruit, which was very good. Fine hills and ranges to the eastward,

and country very promising, and in many places beautifully grassed. After

resting two hours we pushed on about east, and, after going five miles

over spinifex sand-hills, came to a granite range and found two fine rock

holes, sufficient to satisfy the horses. Continuing on, we camped close

to a peaked granite hill, which I named Mount Elvire. No water for the

horses. Found the old horse-tracks, just before we camped, coming from

eastward. I cannot make them out to be Mr. Gosse's; they must be Mr.

Giles's. There appears to be a great number of horses', but am uncertain

if there are any camel-tracks.

IN SAFETY.

13th.

Found a rock hole with about forty gallons of water in it close to camp.

After watering our horses we followed along the old tracks, going nearly

North-East, and passed a gnow's nest, where they had apparently got out

eggs. Shortly afterwards found where the party had camped without water,

and continued on to some high hills and ranges; then we left them to

follow some emu tracks, which, after following up a gully and over a

hill, brought us to a fine spring of good water in a gully. We camped

here, and intend waiting for our party, which will reach here to-morrow.

We watched at the water for emus, and after waiting about four hours saw

two coming, one of which Windich shot. Fine grass, although old and dry,

down this gully. Ranges in every direction. The country contrasts

strikingly with what we have been travelling through for the last three

months. The party whose tracks we followed this morning have not been to

this spring, so they must have missed it. All my troubles were now over,

inasmuch as I felt sure we would accomplish our journey and reach the

settled districts of South Australia; although, as it afterwards proved,

we had many days of hard work and some privation yet to endure. Still the

country was much improved, and not altogether unknown. I then gave out

publicly to the party that we were now in safety, and in all human

probability in five or six weeks would reach the telegraph line. I need

not add how pleased all were at having at last bridged over that awful,

desolate spinifex desert.

14th.

Went to a hill close to camp, the highest in this neighbourhood, and

erected a pile of stones. About 1 o'clock the party arrived all safe.

They reported having seen three natives the day we left, and had induced

them to come to camp, and had given them damper and sugar and a red

handkerchief each; they did not remain long. Each had two spears, very

long and thick, and made out of three pieces spliced together, with large

barbs on them. The party had finished all the water on their way, the

horses yesterday having drank over ten gallons each. This afternoon I

took a round of angles and bearings from a pile of stones on the hill.

Marked a tree F 72, near spring, which I named Barlee Spring, after the

Honourable F.P. Barlee, Colonial Secretary of Western Australia, from

whom I have ever received much kindness and assistance, and who took a

great interest in this expedition. A remarkable hill bore

South-South-West from spring, which I named Mount Palgrave. Barlee Spring

is in longitude about 127 degrees 22 minutes East. Unable to get

latitude: too cloudy.

15th.

Left camp with Windich to look for water ahead, instructing my brother to

follow to-morrow. Steered East along the South side of a rocky range for

ten miles, when we ascended a hill to get a view ahead. About thirty

miles to east fine bold ranges are visible, also broken ranges from

North-East and round to South-East; they are no doubt the Cavanagh Ranges

of Mr. Gosse. About five miles ahead we saw some granite rocks, to which

we proceeded, and found a tremendous rock hole full of water; it was in

between two large rocks and completely shaded from the sun. As the

country east to the ranges appears to be all spinifex and red sand-hills,

I decided to remain here to-night and continue on in the morning. Left a

note telling my brother to camp here on Sunday night. In the afternoon

got a fine round of angles from granite rocks. The country passed over

to-day was along and through ranges which are no doubt the Barrow Ranges

of Mr. Gosse. The flats are very grassy, but the hills are covered with

spinifex. My brother marked a tree at this camp F 73, and observed the

latitude to be about 26 degrees 4 minutes, but was unable to get very

good observation on account of clouds. The Ficus Platypoda was also found

here, loaded with ripe fruit.

GILES'S CAMP.

16th (Sunday).

Steering about East-North-East towards the ranges, we passed over very

miserable spinifex plains and red sand-hills the whole way, about thirty

miles. After reaching the ranges we followed up a fine grassy wide flat,

splendidly grassed, although old; and on the flat were innumerable

horse-tracks--unmistakable evidence of horses being camped for months in

this neighbourhood. Kept on up the gully and flat for about a mile and a

half, when Windich found a gum-tree marked E. GILES OCT. 7, 73. My former

suspicions that Mr. Giles must have been in this neighbourhood were now

confirmed. Soon after we came on a cart-track, which rather astonished

us, and soon found that it must have belonged to Mr. Gosse, who also

camped close here. A deep, well-beaten track went along up the gully,

which we followed, knowing it was the daily track of the horses to the

water, and soon after found their old camp at a beautiful spring running

down the gully a quarter of a mile. A stock-yard had been built, and

gardens made, besides a large bush hut to shelter the party from the sun

as well as rain. Trenches were dug round the hut and tent, so that they

must have had rain. I should say Mr. Giles must have been camped here for

two or three months at least. We camped half a mile down the gully from

the spring. Mr. Gosse and Mr. Giles were within a few miles of each other

at the same time, and did not meet.

17th.

Went for a walk to examine the cart-tracks; found two tracks going east

and west. This convinced me that the cart belonged to Mr. Gosse, who I

knew had returned. Went to the top of a high hill to take angles, while

Windich tried to shoot a kangaroo. After a hard climb I reached the

summit, and had just commenced taking angles when I heard three shots,

and shortly after Windich cooeying. Looking round, I saw a native running

along about 300 yards from me. He disappeared in a hollow. Fearing that

Windich had been attacked by the natives I descended towards him as

quickly as possible, but could not see him. I looked about, keeping a

sharp look-out, expecting to be attacked, but could not find Windich. Sat

down a short time and finally made my way back to the horses, and, after

finding them, saddled one and started back to look for Windich. Found him

coming along with a kangaroo on his back, having shot three, but had not

seen any natives; he had been waiting for me a good while. After dinner I

went back to get my coat and a compass left at the foot of the hill, and

then again ascended the hill and got a fine round of angles. The rock is

very magnetic, and the compass is quite useless. Could see the dust from

the party coming across the spinifex sand-hills, and, descending, met

them just before sundown.

ANOTHER ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES.

They reported having had an encounter with the natives on the 16th, and

having been followed by a number of armed natives for a long way. Finally

they had been compelled to fire on them, but had not killed any. They

were glad to hear of the spring found, and, continuing on, reached it

about half-past 6 o'clock. The spring is Fort Mueller of Mr. Giles, where

he was camped for a long while, and his most westerly permanent water. By

observation Fort Mueller is in latitude 26 degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds

South, and longitude by lunar observation 128 degrees East, the variation

being about 1 degree 25 minutes East by azimuths.

18th.

Rested at spring. Marked a tree sixty yards south of camp F 74, being

74th camp from Geraldton. Also erected a pile of stones on peak, thirty

chains West-South-West of camp, with a pole in centre, on which is

marked:

J. FORREST, AUGUST 17, '74.

Took four sets of lunars, which place spring in longitude 128 degrees

East of Greenwich.

19th.

Steering East-South-East along Mr. Gosse's track for about thirty-five

miles, over most miserable sandy hills and plains of spinifex, with the

exception of a few miles at first, along a grassy flat. Two rock holes

passed were quite dry. Camped without water on a grassy flat not far from

the ranges; hope to find water early to-morrow, as our horses are too

poor to go long without it. Was obliged to abandon police-horse Brick

to-day, as he was completely done up. Nothing but downright poverty is

the cause of his giving in; and the same in the case of Fame and Little

Padbury, which we abandoned over a month ago. They were poor when they

left, and have only had very dry grass ever since. It is a wonder to me

they all do not give in, as many are mere skeletons. Poor old Brick held

up as long as he could, but was forced to give in, and we had to leave

him to his solitary fate; he will probably go back to the spring (Fort

Mueller). Barometer 28.30; latitude 26 degrees 22 minutes 30 seconds

South.

20th.

Got a very early start, and continued on. At one mile found a sandy soak

in a gully, and by digging it out got sufficient water for all our

horses. Still proceeding onwards, following a gully for two miles, came

to Mr. Gosse's depot Number 13, at Skirmish Hill. A bullock had been

killed here, and the flesh jerked. Found a large white gum-tree marked

GOS. 13 at camp. All the water was gone. I, however, camped, and took our

horses to a place a mile west, where, by digging in the sand, we got

enough for them. Went with Pierre to the summit of Skirmish Hill, and

took angles. To the south, nothing but sand-hills and spinifex; to the

North-East the Tomkinson Ranges showed up and looked very remarkable and

promising. Marked a tree F 76, being 76th camp from Geraldton. Camp is in

latitude 26 degrees 23 minutes 28 seconds, longitude about 128 degrees 32

minutes East.

TOMKINSON RANGES.

21st.

Left camp at Skirmish Hill in company with Windich, instructing my

brother to follow to-morrow. Found a fine rock hole two miles from camp,

and followed along Mr. Gosse's track for twenty miles to the Tomkinson

Ranges, over most miserable sandy ridges, covered with spinifex. Fine

grassy flats along and through the ranges. We left the track to examine a

gully to the north, but could not find any water. Got on the track just

before dark and followed it along a few miles. Camped without water for

our horses on a fine flat of very old grass. Windich's horse completely

knocked up, and we had to walk and drive him before us this afternoon.

The day was excessively hot, and the horses are very thirsty. We have

only about a quart ourselves.

ELDER SPRINGS.

22nd.

Early this morning we continued on, Windich's horse scarcely able to

walk. After about ten miles, found a rock hole with three gallons of

water in it, which we gave to our horses. Followed Mr. Gosse's track to

see if there was any water about his depot Number 12, but we either

missed it or had not reached it. About noon Windich's horse could go no

farther, and mine was not much better. What was to be done? We nearly

finished what water we had with us. The party were coming on to-day, and

were depending on us to find water. I determined not to follow the track

any farther, but to search for water ourselves. The horses were unable to

move; we therefore decided to leave them and go for a search on foot.

Windich said he had seen emu tracks, and he thought they were making

south. We therefore started on foot. The sun's heat was excessive. About

3 o'clock returned unsuccessful, and finished what water we had with us.

What next to do was the question; no time was to be lost. Mr. Gosse's map

showed some gullies ahead, but whether there was any water in them was

questionable; he states, "Nearly all the waters discovered in the Mann

and Tomkinson Ranges were running when left, and from a considerable

height." It must have been a good season, and not like this. We decided

to go on foot to a gully about two miles north, which had white gums in

it. We started off and saw more emu tracks going and coming, also

natives' tracks. Windich shot a wurrung, which he said had lately drunk

water. When we reached the gully, many tracks were seen ascending it, and

we felt sure we should find water, and surely enough we soon reached a

most splendid spring, running down the gully half a mile. We were elated

and very thankful. Windich got a shot at an emu, but missed it. After

having a good drink we went back and got our horses, reaching the spring

with them after dark. They were very thirsty and completely done up. Mr.

Gosse missed this spring; probably there was water on the flats when he

was here, and he did not look much. Although his track is easily

followed, we had nearly got into serious difficulty by following it. Had

we not found this spring our position would be very critical, not having

any water for ourselves or horses, and the party in the same predicament.

I will be careful not to follow the track too far in future, but to trust

to our own resources and look for ourselves. We feel sure we passed water

this morning, as in one place we saw emu tracks and pigeons. The party

will reach here to-morrow, and I feel very thankful and relieved to have

such a fine spring to bring them to. The feed is good a mile down from

the spring, although it is very old and dry. There has not been any rain

to speak of since Mr. Gosse was here, nearly twelve months ago, as can be

seen by the cart-tracks crossing the gullies. I named this spring the

Elder Springs, after my friend the Honourable Thomas Elder, who has been

such a great supporter of exploration, and from whom I received a great

deal of kindness and attention.

23rd (Sunday).

Awaited the arrival of the party. Shot an emu; and, while skinning it,

heard a gun-shot, and soon after saw Kennedy coming on, walking. Found

that the party were only half a mile off. They had been very distressed

for water, and had left 120 pounds of flour and a pack-saddle five miles

back, Taylor's mare about three miles back, and Burges and his saddle two

miles back. When they saw my note, directing them to the water, they had

gone back and got Burges, and with great difficulty got him close to

camp, when he lay down and they left him. Windich and I started back on

foot at once with two buckets of water, and met Burges within a quarter

of a mile of camp, crawling along; we gave him the water and he then went

on to the spring. We went back and found Taylor's mare, and brought her

slowly to camp. We are now safe again, and I must give the horses a few

days' rest. The weather has been hot, and if we had not found this

spring, not more than five horses would have lasted out the day. I will

send back and get the flour, as it is only five miles off. The party were

all very glad to see such a fine spring, as their position was very

dangerous, having only three gallons of water with them altogether.

24th.

Rested at Elder Spring. Found the barometer had got broken, which I was

very sorry for. Worked out several lunars taken on the 11th at Giles's

camp.

25th.

Worked out the remainder of the lunars. Marked a large white gum-tree

close to camp, on left bank of Elder Springs, F 78, being the 78th camp

from Geraldton. Found camp to be in south latitude 26 degrees 15 minutes

10 seconds and longitude about 129 degrees 9 minutes East. My brother and

Pierre went back and brought up the flour left five miles back on the

23rd.

MOUNT JANE.

26th.

Went with Pierre to a high peak, which I named Mount Jane, about four

miles South-South-East from camp, and got a round of angles, and a fine

view of the country. To the east high ranges and grassy flats, but to the

south, and from South-East to west, nothing but level country with a few

low rises here and there, apparently sand-hills covered with

spinifex--most miserable country.

27th.

Left camp with Tommy Windich to look for water ahead, instructing my

brother to follow to-morrow. Steered east for four miles, when we struck

Mr. Gosse's cart-track. Followed along it a few miles, when we bore more

to the north; then in the direction of emu tracks, and passed along a

fine grassy flat with hundreds of kangaroos in every direction; also many

emu tracks. We were sure we were getting close to water. A little farther

on saw about twenty-five emus, and soon reached a spring in the brook,

and camped for dinner. Concluded to remain here the remainder of the day.

Went for a walk higher up the brook and found another spring, about one

mile from the first. Returned and took our horses up to it, as there was

better feed there. Left a note, telling the party to camp there also. In

a good season these flats must look magnificent; at this time they are

very dry, but there is a good deal of old grass on them. My brother

marked a tree at spring F 79, which he found to be in latitude 26 degrees

13 minutes. I named this spring Wilkie Spring, after the Honourable Dr.

Wilkie, the honorary treasurer of the Burke and Wills Exploration Fund,

who took such a lively interest in Australian Exploration.

28th.

Continued on eastward and soon struck Mr. Gosse's cart-track. Followed it

along about seven miles, passing Mount Davies, when we bore more to the

south. Following the direction of some natives' tracks, and after going

about two miles, found a native well in a gully, where water could be

procured by digging. Left a note telling my brother to dig it out and see

if he could get enough for the horses. We continued on about

East-North-East, and soon after shot a kangaroo and rested an hour for

dinner, after which we bore about North-East towards a gully and white

gums, and found it to be Nilens Gully of Mr. Gosse. Found his camp and a

white gum marked with a broad arrow, but no water. We followed along and

through the ranges, twisting and turning about, and at last found a

number of natives' tracks, making towards a gap, and, following along

them, found they led to a gorge and white gum gully, ascending which we

found water in some little springs. After watering our horses we returned

towards the party three miles and camped, intending to bring the party to

the spring to-morrow.

FRIENDLY NATIVES.

29th.

Returned about five miles and met the party coming on all right. They

reported having met about twenty natives yesterday, who were friendly,

and who came to them, first of all laying down their spears. They had

given them damper and a handkerchief. Pierre gave them two kylies. They

had three kangaroos roasting in their fire. When we were passing Nilens

gully I saw a native running, and, calling Windich, we went over and saw

five natives sitting on some rocks watching us. I went towards them; at

first they appeared hostile, but after talking at them and making signs

they began to be friendly and came down close to us. They were all armed

with spears. One of them gave me his spear, which was very blunt, and I

sharpened it for him. He made signs for me to give him the knife, but I

could not, as we were very short of knives. They were afraid at first

when I showed them how a horse could gallop, but soon were very pleased

and laughed heartily. Windich shot a chockalott and gave it to them. They

were amazed at seeing the bird drop, and were very pleased when it was

given to them, as they much prize the feathers of these birds. After this

we left them and continued on to the spring found yesterday, and camped.

Got plenty of water by digging a few holes in the springy places. Marked

a tree F 80 in gorge close to spring. Found spring to be in latitude 26

degrees 7 minutes 28 seconds South, longitude about 129 degrees 39

minutes east.

THE MANN RANGES.

30th (Sunday).

Rested at spring. Took bearings from hill close to spring, Mount Hardy

bearing north 117 degrees east magnetic, and Mount Davies north 253

degrees east magnetic. The Mann Ranges were also clearly visible about

ten miles off. In the afternoon Windich found a fine spring in a gully

about half a mile north of camp, at which he shot an emu. I named these

springs the Crowther Springs, after my friend Mr. Charles Crowther, of

Geraldton. Emus and kangaroos very numerous in these ranges.

31st.

Got an early start and took the horses to the water found by Windich

yesterday, where they could help themselves. Steered East-North-East

about, over level country; spinifex generally, studded with desert oaks,

with limestone and snail-shells on surface for about twenty miles.

Reached the Mann Ranges. Before we reached the ranges we struck Mr.

Gosse's track, and followed it along, and shortly came to a very large

and recent encampment of the natives. There must have been a hundred

camped here about a week ago. Found two small springs not far off, but

not strong enough to water all our horses; but we soon found some fine

springy pools in a gully about half a mile further on, where Mr. Gosse

also had been camped, and marked a tree with a broad arrow. I marked on

the same tree F 81, being our 81st camp from Geraldton. Mr. Gosse's

return track leaves his outward track at this spot. I intend following

his return track and make in to the telegraph line, down the Alberga, and

on to the Peake. There is abundance of water at this place, which I have

no doubt is permanent, as there are four springs within half a mile of

one another, but three are very small. Took bearings from a very high

range close by; Mount Davies, Mount Edwin, and Mount Hardy being visible.

The Mann Ranges are very high and rough, and are composed of reddish

granite. They are the highest ranges met with since leaving Mount Hale

and Mount Gould, on the Murchison. Found camp F 81 to be in latitude 26

degrees 3 minutes 20 seconds South by meridian altitude of Altair and

Vega, and longitude about 129 degrees 53 minutes East.

September 1st.

Continuing about east along the foot of the Mann Ranges for about fifteen

miles, came to Mr. Gosse's bivouac of October 11th, but could find no

water; a well that had been dug in the sand was dry. Followed up the

gully about a mile, and came to a small spring, and camped. After

draining it out, found there was no supply, but were fortunate enough to

find some large rock holes with water--no doubt soakages from the

rocks--but they were in an almost inaccessible spot, and it was with

great difficulty we managed to water the horses. One horse fell and

nearly lost his life. Country passed over to-day was poorly grassed, and

spinifex patches here and there. Large and recent native encampments seen

in two places to-day. Latitude 26 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds South.

Marked a tree F 82, close to our bivouac in bed of gully.

2nd.

Followed along south side of Mann Ranges over country pretty well grassed

for about sixteen miles, and reached Mr. Gosse's bivouac of October 12th.

Found a little water in a sandy hole, and a small spring about half a

mile higher up the gully. We had to carry the water from the spring in

drums, which was slow and hard work. When we had watered half of the

horses, Windich came, having found great pools of water in a large rocky

gully about a mile west; we therefore packed up again and went over to

the water. It was a very rough and rocky gully, and the horses had hard

work in getting up to it, but there was abundance when they reached it.

Pools of water, rock bottom; in fact, rock reservoirs, and fed by

springs. It was nearly night when we had finished watering. Windich shot

four ducks. Found camp to be in latitude 28 degrees 8 minutes South.

Marked a tree F 83, being 83rd camp from Geraldton.

ANOTHER ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES.

3rd.

Got a late start, owing to the horses rambling. We continued on easterly

and reached Day's Gully, Mr. Gosse's Number 15 depot. The water was all

gone, and we had to proceed. Followed his track along two miles, when

Windich and I went in search of water, the party waiting our return.

After searching a gully to the west without success, we went east to a

bare granite hill and, passing through a gorge, emerged into a small

flat, and saw about 100 natives, all sitting down eating kangaroos. As

soon as they saw us they all rose and shouted, and many ran towards us

with their spears. One spear came close to me, and stuck fast in the

ground. Windich and I fired our revolvers at them several times, and

chased them up the hill. After this they appeared more friendly, and some

came towards us and followed us back towards the party, keeping about 200

yards behind. We reached them and went back to the natives; they were

perched all over the hills, more than twenty on one rock. They were

friendly now, and about thirty came to us who talked away and seemed very

pleased. They were much afraid of the horses, and would not come near

them. We made the natives understand we wanted water, and about forty

conducted us to a rock hole with nearly fifty gallons in it, which we

gave the horses. The natives laughed heartily when they saw us watering

the horses, but much more when we hit them to drive them away. They were

also delighted that Windich and Pierre were black, and marked about the

body, and also at Pierre having his nose bored. They would not come with

us further, and pointed towards water westward. We did not follow their

direction, and continuing on easterly, camped without water, and only

very old dried grass for our horses. We were obliged to abandon the mare

supplied by Mr. John Taylor to-day, together with about 150 pounds of

flour, also the pack-saddle. She is very near foaling, and is very weak;

she has carried only the empty bags for some time, and has been gradually

failing. She is a fine mare, and I am sorry to lose her, but we cannot

help it. We have more flour than we require, so I decided to leave 150

pounds, as our horses are not able to carry it easily. We have over 3

hundredweight still, which will be quite sufficient. Tomorrow I intend

pushing on to try and reach the spring in the Musgrave Range shown on Mr.

Gosse's chart. It is about forty miles from here, and I have no doubt the

horses will go there, although they are very weak. The natives met to-day

were all circumcised; they had long hair and beards, which were all

clotted and in strands. The strands were covered with filth and dirt for

six inches from the end, and looked like greased rope; it was as hard as

rope, and dangled about their necks, looking most disgustingly filthy.

The men were generally fine-looking fellows. The natives are very

numerous in this country, as fires and camps are seen in many places,

besides well-beaten tracks. Pierre dropped his powder-flask, and one of

them picked it up and gave it to him. They were very friendly and

pleased, and I think, after the first surprise was over, only a few were

hostile. They were much amused at my watch ticking, and all wanted to put

their ears to hear it.

SUFFERINGS OF THE HORSES.

4th.

The horses would not feed last night, and had to be watched. At 4 o'clock

we got up and collected them, and got under way by half-past 5 o'clock,

following on towards the Musgrave Ranges. The morning was cool, and the

horses went along very well. After travelling about twenty miles Padbury

and Butcher began to show signs of giving in. We still pushed on, in hope

of finding water in Lungley's Gully; the sun shone out very hot in the

afternoon. Passed a remarkable high peak, which I named Mount Mary. My

brother, Sweeney, and Pierre were behind with the knocked-up horses,

trying to get them along. Windich went on Hosken, the only horse that was

strong enough, to the north to scour some valleys. Kennedy and I pushed

along slowly with the main lot of horses. If we halted a minute, many of

the horses lay down, and we had great difficulty in getting them up

again. After travelling about thirty-one miles we reached a gully which I

supposed was Lungley's, and I left Kennedy with the horses while I

ascended it on foot. I soon saw many emu tracks, and therefore was

positive water was a little higher up. Found Windich was about 100 yards

in advance of me, having crossed over into the same gully. I soon heard

him shout that there was abundance of water, and fired the welcome

gun-shots to acquaint the party. Returned, and after lifting up some of

the horses that had lain down, and met my brother with the knocked-up

ones, we all proceeded up to the water, which we found to be a beautiful

spring running down the gully about thirty chains. We were all rejoiced

at this good fortune, as we never before wanted water more than at the

present time. Mr. Gosse had camped here, his depot Number 16, and I

wonder he does not show such a fine spring on his map. We are now in

perfect safety, and I will give the horses two days' rest.

5th.

Rested at spring. Windich and Pierre shot three emus; a great many came

to water. Being nearly out of meat, we are glad to get them.

6th (Sunday).

Took bearings from a hill about a mile east of camp, from which there was

a very extensive view. Far as the eye could reach to south, level plains

extended, with low hills rising abruptly out of them here and there; to

the west the Deering Hills and Mann Ranges; while to the east the high

Musgrave Ranges soon stopped the view. The whole country is level, the

ranges rising abruptly out of the plains, and is not like the hilly

country in the settled districts of Western Australia. Marked a tree

close to the camp F 85, being 85th camp from Geraldton. Found camp to be

in latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 25 seconds by meridian altitude of

Altair, and longitude about 131 degrees 3 minutes east.

GOSSE'S SPRING.

7th.

Left spring, and steering about east for seven miles along foot of

Musgrave Ranges, when we turned North-North-East for four miles, and east

one mile to Mr. Gosse's depot Number 17, found spring in a brook, large

white gums in gully; a very fine spring, but not running; any quantity of

water. First-rate feed in gully and on flat. Weather cloudy. Intend

resting here to-morrow, as one of our horses is very lame, and there is

everything we want.

8th.

Rested at camp. Rained lightly last night, and very stormy. Blew a

hurricane towards morning. Rained lightly until noon; more rain than we

have had on the whole trip. We have not had a drop of rain since the

light shower on the 4th August. Marked a tree F 86, being the 86th camp

from Geraldton. Shod two horses. Finished all our meat. We have now only

flour enough for the remainder of our journey. As my friend Mr. Gosse did

not name this splendid place, I take the liberty of naming it Gosse's

Spring, as that is the name we always gave it in referring to it.

9th.

The horses rambled away last night, and were not collected till late. It

was nearly eleven o'clock when we started. We travelled about fourteen

miles over fine grassy country, and camped on a fine flat with a little

water in a gully which appears springy; good feed, although chiefly old,

all round camp. One of our horses is very lame, and we have a little

trouble in getting him along. It rained again last night. Latitude 26

degrees 15 minutes 23 seconds south.

10th.

Steered North-North-East for five miles, and then North-East and east to

Beare's Creek, Mr. Gosse's depot Number 18, where we found a most

beautiful spring running strong down the gully for half a mile. I wonder

he did not mark it permanent water on his map, as it is one of the best

springs I have ever seen. Poor place for feed. The horses inclined to

ramble. Shot two ducks which were in one of the pools, and two wurrungs,

which were very acceptable, being now altogether without meat. Latitude

26 degrees 9 minutes 50 seconds. Grassy gorge on our route to-day.

11th.

We got up long before daylight, intending to get an early start, and

reach Whittell's Creek, but two of the horses were missing, and it was

after eight o'clock when Windich returned with them. We, however,

started, and steering easterly through dense acacia thickets without

grass for about thirty miles, we reached the creek, and found plenty of

water by digging in the sand. Rough low granite hills all along our

route, but very little feed. Passed many clay-pans with water in them.

The country was sandy and stony, and is thickly wooded. Mount Woodroffe

bears north 208 degrees east magnetic from our camp, and a remarkable

granite hill bore north, which I named Mount Elizabeth. Latitude 26

degrees 13 minutes south. Marked a tree F 89, being 89th camp from

Geraldton.

FIG-TREE GULLY.

12th.

Continued onwards about North-East for ten miles, over saltbush flats

with water in clay-pans in places, to the north part of a range, from

which I got a view of Mount Connor, which rose abruptly out of the ocean

of scrub. Rounding the mount, bore South-East towards Harry's Reservoir,

reaching which we camped. It is at the head of a rocky gully; it is very

rough to reach, and no feed within a mile and a half of it. There was

plenty of water in the hole, which is about six feet deep. A white

gum-tree close to the pool is marked GOS, 19, and I marked under it, on

same tree, F 90, being 90th camp from Geraldton. This being such a rough

place, and no feed near, I will move on to-morrow towards or to Figtree

Gully. Weather dark and cloudy.

13th (Sunday).

Continued on towards Figtree Gully, having to go a long way north in

order to get round and through the ranges. Most beautifully-grassed

country all the way; by far the best-grassed country we have seen for

months. After travelling about nineteen miles we found water on some

granite rocks, and camped on a very fine grassy flat. Windich shot a

large kangaroo, which was very acceptable.

14th.

About 2 o'clock this afternoon we collected the horses, and travelled on

to Figtree Gully about four miles, our horses first finishing all the

water on the granite rocks. We got enough at Figtree Gully to satisfy

them, although there is not a great supply. There is a small soakage from

the rocks; we filled the drums to-night, so as to have sufficient for

them in the morning, as the water does not come in quickly. The view to

the east is not very interesting. A few low hills, and generally level

country--apparently thickly wooded with mulga and acacia.

THE MARRYATT RIVER.

15th.

Got an early start, and steering about east for six miles, crossed the

Gum Creek, and followed it along about a mile and a half, when we steered

more to the east, until we struck the head of the Marryatt, which we

followed down North-East and east, until we reached the salt native well

marked on Mr. Gosse's map. We camped here, and dug out the well, which

was very brackish; yet the horses drank it. There was a very poor supply

of water, and we kept bailing it out into the drums all night, and

managed to get out about sixty gallons. We travelled about thirty miles

to-day; our horses were very thirsty, the weather oppressive. I found a

small water-hole, with about twenty gallons in it, about one mile north,

to which we will take the horses to-morrow morning.

16th.

Went over to the rock hole and gave our horses the water--about one

bucket apiece, after which we struck South-East to the river, and found

two rock holes with sufficient water in them to satisfy all the horses.

Continued on and reached Mr. Gosse's camp, where he marks on his map

"Water-hole dug." Found it quite dry; but after going a few hundred yards

we found a nice clay-pan with water in it, and camped. There has been a

little rain here a few weeks ago, and it has not all dried up yet. If it

was not for the rain-water we should have much difficulty in getting down

this river, as all the old native wells dug in the sand are dry.

17th.

Followed down the Marryatt, and at six miles passed a native well, which

was quite dry. We continued on, and at about eight miles found a number

of rock water-holes, all nearly full of water, about a quarter of a mile

south of the river, and camped. Shod some of the horses. Took a set of

lunar observations.

18th.

Two of the horses rambled away during the night, and delayed our start.

At eight o'clock we got under way, and followed along the river. The day

was excessively hot, and we had to walk in turns. At two o'clock crossed

the gum creek shown on Mr. Gosse's map, and searched for the large

clay-pan shown a short distance beyond it; hundreds of natives' tracks

seen all along. Towards evening we found a rock water-hole with about two

gallons in it, which refreshed us, as we were all very thirsty. Here we

were obliged to abandon police-horse Champion, he being completely

knocked up; he has had a very bad back for a long time, and has been

running loose without any load. We pushed on, and I sent Windich to look

for water. We travelled until eight o'clock, when we camped for the night

without water. Shortly after we had camped, Windich overtook us, and

reported having found some clay-pans about six miles back. After having

something to eat I decided to return to the clay-pans, and therefore

packed up three of the horses, and let the others go loose, leaving the

packs until our return. Reached the water by midnight, and the horses

finished it all, and were not half satisfied. I thought there was more,

or would not have come back for it. We hobbled them out, and had a few

hours' rest.

A PAINFUL MARCH.

19th.

Early this morning we searched the flat for water, and found a rock

water-hole with about fifty gallons in it, but could not find any more

clay-pans. We therefore gave the horses the fifty gallons, and pushed on

towards "Water near Table-Land" shown on Mr. Gosse's map, about

twenty-one miles distant. The day was excessively hot again, and walking

was most fatiguing. Men and horses moved along very slowly, but did not

give in. Towards noon a hot wind began to blow. Onwards still we pressed,

and crossed the large creek coming into the Alberga about two miles from

the water. I told the party we were now close, and showed them the low

table-land just ahead. Before we reached it we found a clay-hole with

water, and gave the horses a good drink, after which we moved on a mile

and camped at Mr. Gosse's depot Number 20, where we got plenty of water

by digging in the sandy bed of the river. I was very glad to reach here,

for the horses were getting very weary, and Sweeney was also done up, and

looked very ill and swollen up about the head. The walking was most

harassing, for, besides the ground being soft, the sun was overpowering,

and most excessively hot. We are now in safety again, and to-morrow being

Sunday we will rest.

20th (Sunday).

Rested to-day. Windich shot an emu. Worked out lunar observations. Marked

a tree F 97, being 97th camp from Geraldton. Latitude 26 degrees 44

minutes 19 seconds, longitude about 133 degrees 47 minutes East.

21st.

Continued down the Alberga about South-East for about twenty miles, over

sandy country thickly wooded with mulga and acacia, to Mr. Gosse's

bivouac of December 1st, but there was scarcely any water by digging. We

therefore pushed on and found a native well, from which, by digging out

about five feet, we procured abundance of water. Sweeney still very

unwell, unable to walk; others walking in turns. Distance twenty-five

miles.

22nd.

The horses rambled back on the tracks about three miles, and it was eight

o'clock before we got started. We followed down the Alberga over stony

plains, poorly grassed and thickly wooded, for about eighteen miles.

Found sufficient water by digging in the sand; there was only a very poor

supply, and it took us a good while to water all the horses. The river

bed is more than a quarter of a mile wide and very shallow, and spreads

out over the plains for many miles in heavy winters.

23rd.

Watering the horses delayed us a little this morning, as there was a very

poor supply coming into the well. We followed down the river, and after

travelling about nine miles heard a native shouting, and soon saw him

running after us. He was quite friendly, but could not speak any English;

he came along with us, and shortly afterwards we found a native well with

sufficient water by digging, then camped, as our horses were very weak,

and required a rest. We finished all our tea and sugar to-day, and have

now only flour left; we will therefore have bread and water for the next

week, until we reach the Peake. The native ate heartily of damper given

to him, and remained all day, and slept at our camp. Distance ten miles.

NEAR THE END OF THE JOURNEY.

24th.

Travelled down river, the native still accompanying us, and at about six

miles met a very old native, and a woman and a little girl. They were

quite friendly, and showed us water; and the woman and girl came with us

to Appatinna, Mr. Gosse's depot 21, where we camped at a fine pool of

water under right bank of river. Windich shot three emus that were coming

to the water, and we all had plenty of them to eat. The natives were very

pleased, and went back and brought up the old man and another woman and

child. There were now six with us. They have seen the telegraph line, as

can be seen by signs they make, but they cannot speak English.

25th.

The horses rambled off miles, and it was nearly ten o'clock before we got

under way. There was no feed at all for them. We followed down the

Alberga for about fifteen miles, about east generally, and camped, with

very little old dried-up grass for our horses. About half an hour after

we left Appatinna this morning we had a very heavy shower of rain, and,

although it only lasted about a quarter of an hour, it literally flooded

the whole country, making it boggy. It was the heaviest thunderstorm I

have ever seen. We shall have no difficulty in procuring water now all

the way to the telegraph line, which is not more than forty miles from

here. The natives stayed at Appatinna, as they had too much emu to leave.

We did not want them, and were just as well pleased they did not come on.

Mr. Gosse's track went North-North-East to the Hamilton River from

Appatinna.

26th.

Got off early and followed the river about two miles, when it took a bend

to the north, and as it was rather boggy near it we left it, and steered

about east and East-North-East for twenty miles over most miserable

country without any grass. We camped on a small gully with a little water

in it, and some old dry grass in a flat. The horses were very tired, not

having had anything to eat for the last two or three days, and some

showed signs of giving in; in fact, all weak and knocked-up, and we have

to handle them very carefully. For the first thirteen miles we passed

many clay-pans full of water--water nearly everywhere--after which there

was very little; and the rain does not appear to have been heavy to the

east. The river is about a mile and a half north of us, and we have not

seen it for some miles. Latitude 27 degrees 9 minutes south. Hope to

reach the telegraph line to-morrow.

27th (Sunday).

Continuing East-North-East for two miles, came to the Alberga, and

following along its right bank over many clay-pans with water, about east

for twelve miles, and then East-North-East for three miles, and reached

the telegraph line between Adelaide and Port Darwin, and camped. Long and

continued cheers came from our little band as they beheld at last the

goal to which we have been travelling for so long. I felt rejoiced and

relieved from anxiety; and on reflecting on the long line of travel we

had performed through an unknown country, almost a wilderness, felt very

thankful to that good Providence that had guarded and guided us so safely

through it.

The telegraph line is most substantially put up, and well wired, and is

very creditable at this spot; large poles of bush timber, often rather

crooked, and iron ones here and there. I now gave up keeping watch,

having kept it regularly for the last six months. Marked a tree F 104,

being 104th camp from Geraldton. We had not much to refresh the inner man

with, only damper and water, but we have been used to it now more than a

month, and do not much feel it. The horses are all very tired, and many

of them have sore backs. I hope to reach the Peake on Wednesday night,

where we shall be able to get something to eat. We find making the damper

with boiling water makes it much lighter and softer, and is a great

improvement. Latitude 27 degrees 7 minutes 50 seconds south.

28th.

We travelled down the telegraph line for about twenty-one miles, and

camped on a branch of the Neales River, with a little grass. Level plains

and small rocky rises all the way; very stony country; many clay-pans

with water. A well-beaten road goes along near the telegraph line. We did

not get on it till we had travelled along the line about fifteen miles.

It crosses the Alberga east of the line.

29th.

When we were nearly ready to start, police-horse Butcher lay down and

died in a few seconds; he appeared all right when we brought him in, and

was saddled as usual. Old age, very severe hard work, and continual

travelling, is no doubt the cause of death: we took off his shoes, and

left him where he died. I was sorry for the poor old horse; he had been

rather weak for a good while, but had borne up well to the very last. We

only had four horses to ride to-day, and Sweeney being still lame really

made but three horses between five of us. We travelled down the road for

about thirty-three miles over stony plains; many clay-pans with water,

but no feed. Camped on a gully with some old feed in the flat, in

latitude 27 degrees 49 minutes. Miserable country for grass all day, but

plenty of water from recent rains everywhere. Hope to reach the Peake by

mid-day to-morrow. Damper and water as usual.

30th.

Got off early as usual, all in high glee at the prospect of meeting

civilized habitations again. Travelled along the road and saw cattle, and

shortly afterwards reached the Peake, and rather surprised the people.

Mr. Bagot, the owner of the cattle station, was the first I met; and

after telling him who we were, he said he had surmised it was so. He soon

told us that Mr. Giles had returned, and also Mr. Ross, who had been

despatched by the Honourable Thomas Elder with camels and a good

equipment to find an overland route to Perth, but was unable to get over

to Western Australia. We were soon introduced to Mr. Blood, the officer

in charge of the telegraph station, and, after unloading, were soon

engaged at dinner, the roast beef and plum pudding being a striking

contrast to our fare lately! Both Mr. and Mrs. Blood, as well as Mr.

Bagot, did all they could to make us comfortable during our four days'

rest.

CONGRATULATORY TELEGRAMS.

Immediately on reaching Peake, I despatched a telegram to his Excellency

Mr. Musgrave, Governor of South Australia, at Adelaide, informing him of

the safe arrival of the party, and received the following reply from the

private secretary:--

His Excellency has received your message with great satisfaction, and

congratulates you heartily on your safe arrival.

This telegram was accompanied by another from the Honourable Arthur

Blyth, the Chief Secretary of the Colony:

Is there anything you want? Mail leaves on October 10th. Shall be happy

to facilitate any despatch you may wish forwarded to your Government.

Superintendent of Telegraphs has given instructions for every assistance

to be rendered you at the various telegraph stations on your road down.

The instructions sent by Mr. Todd, the Superintendent of Telegraphs, to

Mr. Blood, the officer in charge at Peake station, were to the following

effect:--

Please give my hearty congratulations to Mr. Forrest on the successful

completion of his great feat, which I have communicated to the Government

and press; also Baron Von Mueller, who sends his congratulations. I shall

be glad to have a few particulars as to route followed, if convenient to

Mr. Forrest to supply them. Render his party every attention.

Mr. Ernest Giles, the explorer, also telegraphed, and I also received

messages from the editors of the Register and Advertiser, Adelaide

newspapers, congratulating me, and asking for a few particulars for

publication in their papers. I complied with the request immediately,

forwarding a brief narrative of the more remarkable incidents of our

journey. On the 15th of October, the day after our arrival at Peake, I

wrote, for the information of Governor Musgrave, a short account of the

journey, and this, accompanied by a more detailed narrative, addressed to

the Honourable Malcolm Fraser, Commissioner of Crown Lands at Perth, was,

together with several private telegrams, forwarded free of charge by the

South Australian Government, which also provided us with fresh horses and

everything we required for our journey to Adelaide.

We left the Peake on the 4th of October, greatly refreshed by the rest

and the kind treatment we had received from Mr. and Mrs. Blood, and Mr.

Bagot, the owner of the cattle station.

Before I record the details of our journey and the receptions given us at

every place on the route, I will quote the concluding remarks of my

journal relative to the expedition:--

THE COUNTRY TRAVERSED.

I now beg to make a few remarks with reference to the character and

capability of the country traversed; and through the kindness and

courtesy of Baron Von Mueller, C.M.G., etc., Government Botanist of

Victoria, and of Mr. R. Brough Smyth, Secretary for Mines of Victoria, I

am enabled to annex reports upon the botanical and geological specimens

collected on our journey.

The whole of the country, from the settled districts near Champion Bay to

the head of the Murchison, is admirably suited for pastoral settlement,

and in a very short time will be taken up and stocked; indeed, some

already has been occupied.

From the head of the Murchison to the 129th meridian, the boundary of our

colony, I do not think will ever be settled. Of course there are many

grassy patches, such as at Windich Springs, the Weld Springs, all round

Mount Moore, and other places; but they are so isolated, and of such

extent, that it would never pay to stock them. The general character of

this immense tract is a gently undulating spinifex desert--Festuca

(Triodia) irritans, the spinifex of the desert explorers, but not the

spinifex of science. It is lightly wooded with acacia and other small

trees, and, except in a few creeks, there is a great absence of any large

timber.

The prevailing rock, which crops out on the rises and often forms low

cliffs, in which are receptacles for holding water, is LIGHT RED

SANDSTONE (desert sandstone, tertiary). The only game found in the

spinifex is a kangaroo rat, commonly called the wirrup; but in the grassy

openings there are many kangaroos, and often emus, also a rat known as

the wurrung. These animals are very good eating, and formed a valuable

addition to our store department. At the permanent waters there were

always myriads of bronze-winged pigeons, and also the white cockatoo with

scarlet crest, called the chockalott; also the beaccoo, or slate-coloured

parrot. Generally, however, with the exception of the crow and hawk,

birds were not very numerous except round water. Whenever a sheet of

water was found we found ducks, and in Lake Augusta swans and ducks were

innumerable.

In bringing this report to a close it is not necessary to refer much to

the reasons that induced me to keep more to the south than I originally

intended. It will readily be seen, after perusing this journal, that it

was a necessity, and that we could not get further north. It is a marvel

to me that we got through at all; the season was an exceptionally dry

one--in fact, a drought--our horses were of a very ordinary kind, and the

country most wretched.

When it is remembered that a horse in poor condition and in warm weather

cannot go much over a day without water, and when the sterility of the

country is considered, it will be readily seen what a disadvantage one

labours under without camels, which can go ten days without water. Well

can I sympathize with Mr. Giles when he states in his journal: "All I

coveted from my brother explorers was their camels, for what is a horse

in such a region as this? He is not physically capable of enduring the

terrors of this country." And so it is; horses are the noblest and most

useful animals in the world, but they must have food and water regularly.

The camel, on the other hand, is physically formed to travel over these

desolate regions, and in Australia has been known to go twelve and

fourteen days without water, carrying 300 pounds, and sometimes 400

pounds weight.

From these few remarks it will be seen what a great disadvantage Mr.

Giles and myself laboured under compared with Major Warburton and Mr.

Gosse; and what in similar circumstances might have been easily performed

by them was quite impossible in our circumstances.

In reading this journal, it may be wondered why we followed so much along

Mr. Gosse's track, when a new route for ourselves might have been chosen

more to the south. The reason is, I had intended, as soon as I reached the

129th meridian (the boundary of our colony), to make a long trip to the

south, near to Eucla, and thus map that important locality; but on

reaching there I was prevented by the following causes: The weather was

excessively warm; the country to the south seemed most uninviting

--sand-hills as far as could be seen, covered with spinifex; our horses

were very poor; our rations were running short, the meat and tea and

sugar being nearly gone; water was very scarce, and I could clearly see

that, although Mr. Gosse had travelled the route last year, it did not

follow that we should be able to do it easily this, as all the water

thus far where he had camped was gone. I felt we were altogether on our

own resources for water, and I concluded to push on towards the

telegraph line as quickly as possible. It turned out, although we had

considerable difficulty, that we reached the line sooner than I could

have anticipated.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.

I have the very pleasant duty to record my thorough appreciation of the

services of my companions. To my brother, Mr. Alexander Forrest, I am

especially indebted for his assistance and advice on many occasions, also

for his indomitable energy and perseverance. Every service entrusted to

him was admirably carried out. He never disappointed me. When absent for

a week, I knew to a few minutes when we should meet again. Whether horses

or loads had to be abandoned, it mattered not to him, he always carried

out the service; and I attribute much of the success to being supported

by such an able and hopeful second in command. In addition to this, he

bestowed great care on the stores of the expedition; collected all the

botanical specimens, besides taking observations for laying down our

route on many occasions during my absence.

To Tommy Windich (native) I am much indebted for his services as a

bushman, and his experience generally. Accompanying me on many occasions,

often in circumstances of difficulty and privation, I ever found him a

good, honest companion.

To James Kennedy, James Sweeney, and Tommy Pierre I am thankful for the

ready obedience and entire confidence they placed in me. They ever

conducted themselves in a proper manner, and on no occasion uttered a

single murmur.

I take this opportunity of thanking all those gentlemen who so kindly

subscribed to the Expedition Fund.

In conclusion, sir, I beg you will convey to his Excellency Governor Weld

my sincere thanks for the kindness and support he has given me in this

arduous enterprise. I can truthfully state, if it had not been for his

zeal and assistance, I should not have been able to undertake and

accomplish this exploration.

I have also to thank the Honourable F.P. Barlee, Colonial Secretary, and

yourself, for your kind attention and consideration, and your desire that

I should have everything that was necessary to bring the expedition to a

successful termination.