The Making
of Candlesticks and
Book Supports
[Illustration]
TO MAKE A CANDLESTICK WITH STRAIGHT SIDES the molds should be made in
sections, the divisions occurring where the corners come. This results
in the object coming from the mold with the mold lines where they can be
easily removed.
THE MOLD FOR A CIRCULAR CANDLESTICK or round base can be made in three
divisions similar to the making of a mold for a round vase. The mold
lines occurring on the surface can be obliterated as soon as the object
is removed from the mold.
A MOLD FOR A CANDLESTICK DIFFERS FROM A VASE MOLD in that it is made
upside down. As a candlestick is made solid instead of hollow like a
vase, the mold is filled from the bottom, the open part to hold the
candle being a projecting section into the space of the mold into which
the cement is poured.
TO MAKE THE MOLD SECTIONS the small section to reproduce the hole for
the candlestick is first made. The original model, made either from clay
or modeling wax, is placed upright and a strip of oiled cardboard or
metal fastened around the top and plaster poured into the candlestick
hole and up above the top to the level of the cardboard or metal which
should extend at least an inch above the top of the candlestick.
AFTER THE MOLD FOR THE TOP IS MADE each side should have a key space
bored into it and then the mold is placed back into the model, the
exposed portions of the plaster are oiled and the side section (round or
straight section) is next made, leaving the bottom open. The completed
parts of the mold are assembled and dried before using them for the
cement cast.
TO POUR THE CANDLESTICK CAST, assemble the molds after they have been
immersed in water and oiled and after tying them firmly together turn
them upside down and pour the cement into the opening. If a color is to
be used, the color should be poured in and the mold rotated until the
color covers the inner surface. Surplus color should be mixed and kept
to use later in completing the bottom. After the lining has set, a
mixture of sand and coarse cement should be poured into it and permitted
to settle. Jarring or tapping the mold will help the cement to settle.
If it settles, more cement should be poured in. After it has settled,
the color surplus similar to the surface lining is poured on to finish
the bottom.
WHEN THE MOLD IS OPENED the sides are opened first and the small mold
section forming the candlestick hole is carefully twisted out. If when
making this part of the mold, a T shape wire has been inserted it will
strengthen the mold.
TO MAKE THE BOOK SUPPORT, a model should first be designed and modeled
in clay or modeling wax. This design must be considered from its
practicability and the structural design therefore must be carefully
planned. The base on the book support should be heavy enough to
overbalance the upright portion so as to prevent the book support from
falling over. The upright portion may be of any simple shape and
enriched in any of the methods previously described for the decorating
of tiles.
A WOODEN BASE OR BACK FOR THE MODEL may be used on which to place the
modeling wax. A thin layer of the modeling wax may be placed over the
entire surface, and variations to the shape also can be made with the
modeling wax. A panel of plaster or a tile design can be incorporated
into the model instead of modeling. This method has been often used and
found to give good results.
GESSO OR RELIEFO MODELED PANELS CAN BE USED for book support designs by
attaching them to the surface of the model. If the gesso or reliefo is
first shellaced it will be found to be an excellent material with which
to produce modeled designs for color cement handicraft.
AFTER THE MODEL IS COMPLETED the first part of the mold to be made
should be the portion with the design. The triangular shape of the
design and base portion should be placed in position and supported so
that a single pouring of plaster will produce a mold of the design and
the upper surface of the base. Different shaped bases or irregular
shaped bases will require individual consideration when planning the
molds. The main thing to consider is that the parts of the molds must be
made so that the cast will release easily from the molds.
THE SIDES OF THE BOOK SUPPORT are next made, casting the sides while the
first piece cast is kept in close position over the model and drilling
keys in the sides to produce locking holds in the mold sections. The top
of the model is also cast, the bottom being the only portion not made,
as the book support like the candle is cast upside down.
PRECEDING THE POURING OF CEMENT the mold sections are soaked in water,
taken out and oiled, assembled and put closely together, and tied firmly
in position. The colored cement slip is then poured in, the mold is
rotated and the concrete or cement filler is poured in and permitted to
settle. The bottom or last layer is then poured on in the same color as
that used for the lining.
TO INSURE QUICK ASSEMBLY OF MOLD PARTS when working, the molds should be
marked with corresponding numbers so that the correct parts can be put
together rapidly.
TO FINISH THE BOOK SUPPORT it is removed from the mold, trimmed as
needed, placed in water to harden for several days, taken out and
permitted to dry slowly and then brushed well and waxed. A thin coating
of shellac may precede the wax. Two sets of molds for book supports will
enable two book supports to be made at one time and in this way the
color of both can be made to match each other.
[Illustration: Book Support and Candlestick Molds]
[Illustration]