Chinese Fishermen.—Pedro Blanca.—Preparing for Port.—Chinese
Pilots.—Beating up the Passage.—Hong Kong.—“Hail Columbia.”—The
“Susquehanna.”—Stars and Stripes.—Chinese Merchants.—Washerwomen.—
Bumboats.—Dick Simpson and John Chinaman.—Chinese mode of
Trading.—Sanpan.—A floating Community.—Boston Jack.—Victoria, its
Situation, Streets, etc.—Chinese Barbers.—Fortune-tellers.—
Policemen.—Chinese New-year.—A busy Time.—Firing a Salute.—Arrival
of Governor BONHAM.—English Barracks.—Churches.—Hotels.—Dog or
Horse?—Visit from Men-of-war’s-men.—Tom and the Lieutenant.—
Commodore Perry.—Midshipmen.—Visit to the Barracks.—Theatre.—
Fort.—Make some Purchases.—Counterfeit Money.—Tricks of the
Chinese Merchants.—Females.—Gambling.—Cut-throats.—Short-tailed
Gentlemen.—Chinese Funeral.—Marriages.—Education.—Ouang Ouci
Yuen.—Infanticide.—Twenty-second of February.—Chinese Artists.—
Their Powers of Imitation.—Sam Shu.—Domestic Life of the Chinese.—
Food.—Temple, or Joss House.—Worship of Idols.—Joss Sticks.—Tom as
a Yankee Naval Officer.—Chinese Men-of-war.—Pirates.—Chinese
Theatre.—Masonic Temple.—The Bethel.—Chinaman and his Shoes.—The
Arrest, Trial, and Acquittal.—Departure for Sea.
Wednesday, February 9th, brought us in close proximity to the land
of the Celestials, as the numerous fishing-junks bore testimony.
The same day we sighted Pedro Blanca, which is an island lying near
Hong Kong. At 10 A.M. commenced bending the cables, and making other
preparations for coming to an anchor. As we neared the land we saw
great numbers of pilot-boats steering for us, one of which soon
reached us; the pilot came on board, with his long tail, or queu,
hanging behind him, and presenting a comical contrast to an old
Yankee “Hard-a-lee.” He wanted the moderate sum of forty dollars for
taking us into port. Captain Ewer was not so easily gulled as that,
and soon gave the old fellow to understand that if he wished to pilot
us in for twenty dollars he could do so, and if not he could leave
immediately. This brought him to his senses, and he very quickly
accepted the offer, as numerous other pilot-boats were in sight, and
he knew that he would be underbid if they had an opportunity to do so.
The next day found us beating up through the lee passage. At 1 P.M.
the wind died away, and the tide commencing to set out, we dropped
anchor. At 7 P.M. we weighed anchor, and with a fine breeze beat
up to the anchorage. At 8 P.M. we “brought up” in the harbor of
Victoria, Hong Kong.
We were aroused from our slumbers the following morning by the
familiar strains of “Hail Columbia,” and our first thought was that
we were again at home. But this pleasant illusion was soon dispelled;
for, going on deck, we found that the music proceeded from the steam
frigate Susquehanna, which was lying close to. What joyous feelings
did we experience while listening to that soul-stirring air, and
beholding our national flag, the glorious “stars and stripes,”
floating proudly from the mizzen-peak of such a grand and stately
vessel! We could but feel a great national pride to see our beloved
country so nobly represented in a foreign clime. On looking about
us, we saw the United States sloops of war Plymouth, Portsmouth, and
Saratoga; also the Supply store-ship, together forming quite a fleet.
Nothing is so cheering to the rover, while in foreign lands, as to
see familiar faces, persons speaking the same tongue and claiming
the same land of birth, “the land of the free and the home of the
brave.” A feeling of patriotism naturally animated us as we beheld
our country’s floating batteries, “the right arm of our defense,” and
for a moment we forgot that there was any country but “happy, free
America!” The harbor was well filled by merchantmen from nearly all
nations; also we observed several English naval vessels in port, as
this is one of their rendezvous. Among the shipping the “stars and
stripes” were conspicuous, and we could but notice that they floated
from more than half the vessels in port.
Before 9 A.M. the deck of our vessel was crowded with Chinamen of all
descriptions. In one corner might be seen the tailor spreading out
his fancy clothing; then the shoemaker with his shoes, taking the
measures of such of the crew as might want. In another part of the
ship might be seen a complete variety store, with all descriptions
of lacquered ware, artificial flowers, silk handkerchiefs, etc., all
selling for a mere song. Washerwomen running about, engaging the
washing while the ship remains in port; bumboats alongside with fruit
and confectionery; carpenters, riggers, sail-makers, blacksmiths,
etc., each with recommends, looking after and soliciting employment.
The decks now presented a comical spectacle. The bald head of the
Chinaman stood out prominent; the honorable tail, neatly dressed,
the end tipped with ribbon, was conspicuous in all. Each was dressed
according to his calling; the merchant in the finest silks, and the
common laborer in the coarsest garments. Our Kanakas had their own
sport with them, never having seen a Chinaman before, and regarded
them as objects of the greatest curiosity. This was especially the
case with Dick Simpson, our King Mills’ native. Not being satisfied
with viewing them at a distance, he walked up to one, took hold of
the long, braided tail of hair, and cried out, laughing heartily,
“Look here! what for all the same? hey? All same big fool. By golly!
I no been see all same that, my land!” He then laughed till he could
laugh no more, seemingly splitting his sides. The poor Chinaman
looked at him in perfect amazement, and, not appearing to relish the
joke, jabbered away in his own language. This appeared to astonish
Dick still more, and he again broke forth: “What this fellow talking
about? see that! By golly! say, long-tail, what you talk about? You
no saba noting; more better you go ashore; bimeby me eat you—look
out!” Dick had to stop again to laugh heartily, the Chinaman stared
so earnestly at him.
By this time the trading had commenced quite briskly, and we
overheard the following bargain between one of our boys and a
Chinaman. The article was a pair of silk pants, for which the
merchant wanted the sum of one dollar and fifty cents:
“No you don’t,” says Jack; “I’ll give you three quarters of a dollar.”
“No can do; no proper,” said the Celestial.
“Well, that’s all I’ll give you; you mustn’t come aboard here to come
any of your gouge games; if you do, overboard you go.”
“Three quarters no can catch. S’pose one dollar one quarter, very
good, proper.”
“Not a bit of it; three quarters, no more.”
“You no see; pant very good; No. 1; three quarters no can catch
plofit; s’pose you like one dollar, very good.”
“Three quarters is all I’ll give you; what do you say, old Chinaman?
bear a hand.”
“No; no can do; must catch one dollar.”
“Shiver my timbers! old buggerlugs, if you don’t come to terms pretty
soon, I’ll treat you to a salt-water bath; three quarters, or away
you go.”
“Well, s’pose must catch three quarters; no good, no proper;” and
then, turning to another of the men, said, “S’pose you like catch one
three quarters, very good, proper.”
This is a peculiar characteristic of the Chinese merchants. They
charge about twice as much as they expect to get for an article;
and the only way to trade with them is to make them an offer, and
not vary one cent from it; they will not let a person go without
purchasing.
The mate now came along, and started them all for the shore. They
were very loth to go, but after a while we rid the ship of them. As a
general thing, they are expert thieves, and will carry off any thing
they can lay hold of if not very closely watched.
The captain hired a boat (which is the usual custom), called a
“sanpan,” to attend on the ship. These boats are _manned_ by a whole
family, as a general thing, it constituting house and home with them.
They are generally about thirty feet in length and six in width,
with two mat sails. They have a sort of cabin for the accommodation
of passengers, which is amidships, or in the centre of the boat.
This cabin also serves as parlor, kitchen, sleeping-room, and
dressing-room for its occupants. The Chinaman who owned the “sanpan”
hired by our captain had a family consisting of himself, wife, wife’s
sister, and brother. He had also three fine-looking, bright children,
who appeared perfectly contented on board their floating-home.
It is a singular fact that the lowest class of Chinese are not
allowed to live on land, but spend most of their lives upon the
water. When they possess a certain sum of money they are allowed
a residence upon the land, and not until then; but this sum is so
large that very few of them ever accumulate it. They are born, live,
and die upon the water, never going on shore except to purchase
the necessaries of life. One may see floating markets, shoe-shops,
tailor-shops, and, in fact, all kinds of mechanical business. We
noticed some boats, not exceeding ten feet in length, containing a
family of five or six, with all their “household gods,” etc., on
board.
But to return to our own “sanpan.” The captain appeared active and
intelligent, the females rather good-looking and sociable, the crew
(consisting of one man) lazy and indolent. These first class sanpans
are hired by ships while lying at anchor for the purpose of conveying
the ship’s company to and from the shore, doing the ship’s errands,
bringing off provisions, etc., a kind of “man-of-all-work,” for which
services they receive from ten to fifteen dollars per month. From
this amount, say fifteen dollars, a Chinaman will save ten, which
makes it quite a profitable job. It is an excellent plan also for
the ship concerned, as it obviates the necessity of lowering her own
boats while in port. They sail like the wind, and are quicker in
motion than any other boat we ever saw upon the water. One can not
look about the harbor but he will see them on every hand, gliding
about with the swiftness of an arrow, yet collisions seldom if ever
occur. It is surprising to see the ease with which they manage
them—two coming from opposite directions with great swiftness,
apparently steering for each other’s bows, yet, at the moment when
a collision appears inevitable, down goes the helm of one, and they
shoot past each other free from harm.
The morning following our arrival a boat came alongside loaded with
fresh meat, vegetables, etc. The proprietor of the “market” soon made
his appearance, and introduced himself to the captain as “Boston
Jack,” a comprador (one who furnishes ships with fresh provisions).
He informed Captain E. that he was comprador to the American ships
in port, and wished to engage himself as “comprador to the Emily
Morgan.” A bargain was soon struck, and he was duly installed in
the office. In appearance Boston Jack is about forty years of age,
medium height, very quick and active, with a sharp, keen eye, and
very polite. The bows he bestowed upon all who honored themselves
by speaking to him would have become the most complete and polished
French gentleman.
Dr. BALL, in his “_Rambles in Eastern Asia_,” thus speaks of him:
“About a mile above Whampoa we called at ‘Boston Jack’s’. This is
a Chinaman, an acquaintance that my companions had made in passing
before. ‘Boston Jack’ is familiarly known to the European population
of Hong Kong as a kind of interpreter and furnisher of provisions
for vessels, and a commissioner to provide servants, coolies, and to
make purchases of various Chinese articles. He was formerly a pilot,
and is still connected with that business, furnishing pilots, etc.,
and is ready to do any kind of business between the foreigners and
Chinese. He is said to be worth a hundred thousand dollars; treated
us to beer, and gave us some to take on our way. He had much to say
of his son, who lives in New York, and was very polite, inviting us
to call again,” etc.
Hong Kong is an island, and not, as is the general impression, a
Chinese city. It is a British colony, within a few miles of the
Chinese coast. It was Chinese until the treaty after the celebrated
opium war ceded it to the English. At that time it was inhabited
only by a few fishermen and pirates. It is an elevation of barren
mountains, with scarcely any vegetation, and is about twenty-five
miles in circumference, and eight in diameter. Its shores are
generally bold, and the water deep near the coast. There are,
however, several spots with declivities sufficiently gradual for the
location of cities. The English government has taken possession of
these, and erected fortifications and barracks, where they keep small
garrisons of troops. Victoria is the name of the city, yet it is
hardly known by any name but Hong Kong.
Victoria is on the north side of the island, built on the base and
on the inclination of a conspicuous mountain which overlooks the
harbor. It extends about two and a half miles along the edge of the
water, and back on the side of the mountain half a mile. It has
only one principal street, called Queen’s Road, which is near the
water, and encircles the island. There are several others parallel
with it, and from twenty to forty feet one above the other. The
small cross streets uniting them are steep, and at some places have
flights of steps by which to ascend and descend. Taking the zigzag
streets in their proper order, the highest houses may be reached
with a carriage. The houses are generally of two or three stories,
though many at the outer part of the city, called bungaloes, are of
one story, and look like cottages. Open to the country on the west
of the city you will see the steep side of the mountains, with only
here and there a poverty-stricken Chinaman’s cabin. The ground is
covered with rocks, a little grass, and, higher up, with brush. The
white buildings conspicuous here and there are the police stations.
Following the road to the east, you enter the part of the city known
as Typen-shang, where the lower order of the Chinese reside.
Following the road as it winds round and ascends upon higher ground,
we come to the European part—the central portion of Victoria. On
the left is a row of Chinamen’s shops, beyond which, along the edge
of the harbor, are occasionally the large houses of Europeans.
On the right are blocks of European buildings, rising one above
another, and as we passed them we could but imagine ourselves once
more in a civilized land. Behind these, a little distance up the
inclined plane, the mountain rises abruptly, and to the eye nearly
perpendicular, and terminating in a peak near three thousand feet
high. A scanty vegetation of grass and brambles there appears, but
there is little else than rocks, some of which seem to hang by
nothing, and may eventually, becoming loosened, roll down and cut
their way through the settlements to the water.
Passing along, we come to the principal business part of the city.
On the right is a hotel, with blocks of houses occupied mostly by
English and Americans, auctioneers, apothecaries, the club-house of
the merchants, etc., and back, short streets of Chinese mechanics.
Continuing along the water toward the east, after a short interval
we see the military quarters, which inclose within a quarter of a
mile the showy stone barracks, parade-ground, officers’ residences,
in elevated positions, the church, and other buildings. Half a mile
farther is another fine block of buildings; then comes the hospital,
ship-yard, and a large ship-chandlery establishment. Thus the town or
city of Victoria is strung out for two or three miles along the shore.
The population, including Chinese, is about twenty-five thousand.
But a small portion are European. Almost every nation is represented
here, though there are only a few of each. Besides the English,
American, and Chinese, we find the French, Spanish, Portuguese,
Persians, Bengalese, Javanese, Manillamen, German, Italian, Russian,
Danish, Swiss, Dutch, Belgian, Pole, Arab, Turk, Armenian, Tartar,
Siamese, African, and South American.
The streets are filled with Chinese, and you continually see the
traveling barber, carrying his barber-shop with him—cobblers,
tinkers, pastrymen, men carrying hogs, rabbits, ducks, rats, puppies,
etc, already cooked; and along the principal streets you find the
brokers, or money-changers, with piles of cash. These cash are a
small coin, about one half the size of a cent, of a base metal,
and a square hole in the centre, twenty-four of which are equal in
value to one of the cents of United States coin. The fortune-teller
or conjurer may also be seen, with his charts, covered with
hieroglyphics, spread before him, and busily engaged in penetrating
the future for some inquisitive Chinaman.
The police force here is composed mostly of English, Americans, and
Lascars. They are very effective in preserving order among the
Chinese, and a Chinaman stands more in awe of a policeman than any
thing else in Hong Kong.
From the ship the town looks beautiful at night. It was New-year’s
week with the Chinese at this time, and their part of the town
was brilliantly illuminated every evening. The thousand brilliant
lamps, with an occasional rocket piercing its way into the clouds
above, presented to the beholder a scene of beauty scarcely equaled,
reminding him of old legends of enchanted cities. The evening gun of
the frigate booms forth, answered from the fort; the bugle call from
the barracks sounds sweetly on the calm evening air, and as its soft,
gentle tones strike our ear, we almost forget that we are in the land
of strangers, and remain musing until we are aroused by the striking
of the frigate’s bell, and the hoarse cry echoed over the waters of
“All’s well!”
The day after our arrival our ship presented rather a busy
appearance. The cooper, with his gang, was preparing casks for
water and provisions; others were engaged breaking out the hold and
restowing oil, and all hands busy about something; outside a gang of
Chinese calkers were busily engaged, and following them were another
gang with scrapers and brooms, preparing the ship for an extra coat
of paint.
The United States sloop of war “Plymouth” fired a salute on this day,
in honor of a visit from the American consul. The report of her heavy
guns almost deafened us, and caused our Kanakas to open wide their
eyes with astonishment, and exclaim, “I g-o-lly; I never been hear
all the same that fore!”
On Sunday, February 13th, the British mail steamer “Wildfire”
arrived, having on board Governor BONHAM, who had been home to
England on a visit. He was received by a salute from the men-of-war
and the fort, and escorted to his residence by the military
stationed here. In the eastern part of the town are situated the
barracks; the buildings, which are of stone, are fine, large, and
comfortable, and the grounds ample for military evolutions. The
59th regiment of infantry, a company of sappers and miners, and
one artillery company, were stationed here at this time. They were
composed of fine, healthy-appearing men, and when on parade presented
a brilliant appearance.
We found three churches here—one a fine, large Episcopal church,
built of stone; a Roman Catholic, and a third a “Union” church, as it
was called, attended by persons of all creeds and denominations.
There are also several very fine hotels here, the principal of which
is “Brooks’ Hotel.” This is generally the head-quarters of the naval
officers. The house is kept on the European plan, is very commodious,
and, above all, very neat and clean. Their charges are in proportion,
as they intend their guests shall pay for what they have in good
round sums.
While on shore shortly after our arrival, Dick Simpson, our “Group”
native, saw a man pass on horseback. The poor fellow appeared dumb
with astonishment; at length he exclaimed, “What for man, he on _big
dog_! I g-o-lly; I no been see all same that my place; all the same
that ’Merica?” On being answered in the affirmative his wonder still
increased, if possible, and it proved a hard task to convince him
that it was not a _dog_, but a _horse_. “Yes, he big dog; ’spose me
no saby; he all the same dog,” he would say. In order to satisfy
his curiosity, we took him to a horse, and told him to examine for
himself. After having expressed himself as satisfied, he wished to
know “where he came from.” We explained this as far as lay in our
power to do, and after we ceased he chuckled, and told what yarns he
would spin when he arrived at his “land.” “Kanaka my place all same
fool; he no been see nothing!”
As we were the only sperm whaler in port, we attracted considerable
attention, especially from the Yankee men-of-war’s-men, as they all
lay in close proximity to us, many of whom paid us visits, some to
purchase shells, whale’s teeth, and other curiosities, others to
learn the _modus operandi_ of the capture of the sperm whale. The
particulars of the chase appeared greatly to interest them, as they
never before had the opportunity of listening to such narrations, or
of inspecting the different apparatus for fastening and killing the
whale, hoisting in the blubber, trying out, etc.
During one of these visits from the captain and one of the
lieutenants of the store-ship “Supply,” Tom W——, of whom we have
before spoken, being full of the old Nick, as usual, “button-holed”
the lieutenant at once, and proceeded to show him the ship and
whaling craft. He soon had the officer down in the hold, among the
greasy oil casks, to show him the manner of _stowing down the oil_.
He kept on a straight countenance, and told his guest he supposed
he wished to see the whole show! The lieutenant did not appear to
relish the sport, as he had already finely besmeared his coat and
pants with dirty grease; and on remarking it, Tom coolly replied,
“Oh! that is nothing; you should try a voyage whaling; you would not
mind the grease much!” After piloting him through all the dirtiest
parts of the ship, he at last brought up in the _cook’s galley_.
The mate, who had been entertaining the captain of the “Supply,”
now came in search of the lieutenant, and what was his surprise to
see him cozily seated in the “galley” with Tom, who had him by the
button-hole, very earnestly explaining how nicely our cooking was
done, and the excellent virtues of the stove. The mate now came to
the relief of the pestered officer, and was walking off with him,
when Tom marched after, called him, extended his hand, and bade him
good-by with much warmth, inviting him very cordially to call again.
The lieutenant could not refuse his hand, and, returning a slight
shake, turned away, looking daggers. However, we believe, on learning
the particulars, being too much a gentleman to show anger, he laughed
heartily at the joke, and before leaving the ship invited Tom to pay
him a visit. Tom thanked him, and promised to avail himself of the
honor and pleasure.
On Wednesday, February 16th, Sir WILLIAM BONHAM, the English
governor, visited the steam frigate “Susquehanna,” and on leaving was
honored by a salute, the cross of St. George at the fore royal-mast
head. This vessel is the flag-ship of Commodore AULICK, who was daily
expecting the arrival of Commodore PERRY to relieve him and take
command of the squadron.
The officers on board the several naval vessels in port appeared very
courteous and gentlemanly, and possessing a dignity that fully became
their position. We felt proud of them as American naval officers, and
willing that our navy and our country should be judged by them. There
were, however, with them, as with every thing, a few exceptions.
The lowest class of naval commissioned officers, familiarly known
as “middies,” appeared altogether too large and nice for even the
company of the commodore, and would strut about the decks of their
ship, or the streets of the city, deeming any one who could not sport
an _officer’s uniform_ entirely beneath their notice. We are glad,
for the honor of our navy and country, that this class is small, and
we would that it were less.
Wishing to visit the barracks of the soldiers and see them in their
every-day life, we embraced the opportunity of an invitation from
one of the officers, whose acquaintance we had previously formed,
and paid them a visit. We must confess to a surprise in finding the
excellent order and extreme cleanliness that every where prevailed.
The rooms were large and well ventilated, and the cots placed in
rows along the walls. From all appearances, the soldiers must have
easy times and comfortable quarters. They are compelled to drill one
hour each day, which usually takes place in the forenoon; from that
time until 3 P.M. they are occupied in taking care of and cleaning
their arms and accoutrements. From that time until 8 P.M. they are
at liberty to go where they please. The evening gun is then fired,
and all are required to be within the gates at half past 8, at which
time each room is visited, and those absent after 9 P.M. are put
under guard as soon as they return, and are punished according to the
circumstances of the case.
For their amusement, a very good theatre is connected with the
barracks, the actors belonging to the regiment. We learn that this
is beneficial, inasmuch as it prevents many of them from seeking
pleasure in the numerous drinking-houses which infest certain
portions of the city; a pleasure that many of them appeared disposed
to seek, but which is generally dear bought, as it is sure to be
followed by a punishment proportionate to the offense.
Near the Episcopal church stands the fort, which, from its elevated
position, commands the town. The battery is immediately on the
beach, and has a fair sweep at the shipping. The authorities find
it necessary to keep a strict watch over the Chinese population to
prevent an insurrection. They only lack the courage; their hatred
of the English is complete, and the will to rise and murder every
“outside barbarian” in the city is not wanting in them.
One can scarcely pass through the streets but he is saluted with the
cry of “Kum my shop; can sell much too chipp; no wanchee buy sum
littley ting?” In fact, the Chinese portion of Hong Kong is a perfect
Chatham Street. Going into a shop one morning, we began looking at
various articles, the shopkeeper pulling down all his wares to show
us. After selecting several articles, and inquiring the sum total of
the bill, we were informed it was fourteen and a half dollars. We
indignantly turned to leave, when he accosted us with,
“How much can catchee them tings?”
We told him “six dollars.”
“No can do; no can catch plofit, s’pose six dollar.”
“Very good,” we informed him, and again turned to leave, when he
called to us the second time, and, after some bantering, told us we
might have them for six dollars. Had we not have known the price of
such articles previous to this, we might have paid him more than we
did, but we knew they were all _Jews_ in trading, and were determined
not to allow the rascal to cheat us.
They are great rascals, these Chinese merchants. The currency here is
gold, silver, and copper, and they are very cautious in regard to it,
being continually on the alert for spurious coin; yet, if they have
the opportunity, will put off any quantity of it, and then lie out
of it in the most barefaced, impudent manner imaginable. Spanish and
Mexican dollars command a premium of from four to six cents; other
silver they will not take for its full value. An American half dollar
passes for but twenty-five cents among them. On receiving a piece of
money, they inspect it very minutely, and if they discover the least
flaw or defect in it, they refuse it as bad; or, as they say, “chop
dollar—no proper;” yet, if they have the opportunity, will pass the
same kind on the purchaser in giving change. If one of them refuse to
take such money, it is only necessary to whisper the word “policeman”
in his ear, and all is immediately right.
A seaman, who had recently come on shore to live from a California
ship, received a bad dollar from one of these merchants. On
discovering it, he proceeded to the shop and called for a
backgammon-board. Choosing a beautiful one, finished with rich gilt
work, he inquired the price. The Chinaman said “three dollars.”
“No, no, John Chinaman; s’pose me no saby you? me live too long Hong
Kong; me no fool.”
“Well, s’pose can catchee two dollar, he very good?”
“No, I give you one dollar; proper.”
“Hiyah! how can do! no proper!”
“S’pose you like one dollar, very good; s’pose you no like, very
good.”
“Me likey one dollar; two dollar more good; proper; you no see;
number one, this fellow; alla same ’nother pigeon (merchant) sell
five dollar.”
“Me no give more one dollar; plenty Chinaman speak one dollar proper.”
“Hiyah! Chinaman bloody liar! no speak good; too much lie. S’pose you
like catchee one dollar half, proper; s’pose one dollar, no can do.”
“Well, s’pose you no like one dollar, me go ’nother shop.”
“No proper; s’pose you cum my shop, buy plenty, you catchee him one
dollar.”
“Oh, certainly. I shall buy you out before I leave.”
Accordingly, he picked up the board, and threw down the same piece he
had received from this merchant the day previous. On seeing this the
Chinaman flew into a great passion, and called for his board to be
returned to him; but it was too late; the purchaser had departed with
it under his arm. However, he was not to be got rid of so easily;
after the sailor he went, shouting after him to give up his board.
The sailor heeded him not, but proceeded to his boarding-house,
threw the board into his chest, closed it, and sat down on the
lid. Presently in came the Chinaman in a hot rage, and demanded his
backgammon-board. Upon this the sailor jumped up, seized the Chinaman
by the collar, who commenced turning pale, and, shaking him rather
roughly, demanded why he gave him “that bad dollar.” The poor fellow
protested his innocence, denying the charge. This dodge would not
do; so, shouting to a landlord to bring in a policeman, the Chinaman
darted for the door, and retraced his steps with all possible speed.
The females are kept under great subjection, being looked upon as
little better than slaves. They are not allowed to be educated,
but are kept in ignorance. The higher classes dress very richly,
wearing many ornaments of gold. In some things we think they show
much more good sense than our American ladies. Fashion, with them,
does not change every month, yet they all dress in good taste. Their
manner of dressing the hair is decidedly superior to that of our own
fair countrywomen. On their wrists they wear heavy gold bracelets,
generally placed there when quite young, and, were it not for their
small feet, they would make a good appearance. This deformity, for
we can call it nothing less, causes them to walk as though they were
crippled. Many of them are obliged to use the cane to assist them,
and they always appear as if it caused them pain to walk. The small
feet, we were credibly informed, are confined to the aristocracy.
They appear more like club-feet than natural ones, the ankle and foot
having both become one. The females are much better-looking than the
men. We seldom noticed the high cheek-bones, or eyes so wide apart;
and, moreover, their heads are covered by _nature’s covering_—fine
black hair. In complexion they resemble the brunette.
We noticed one very singular fact. As many times as we visited the
shops of the merchants, we never saw any females in them, not even
belonging to the merchant’s family, who generally reside in the
same building. We often wondered at this, so different from our own
customs; but then we recollected that we were “outside barbarians,”
and could not, of course, be expected to know what was right. On
inquiring of “Acowo,” a merchant of high standing, the reason of this
custom, his only answer was, “No proper alla same that pigeon; no
good.” Very satisfactory, truly!
On Sunday the stores and shops of the Chinese are kept open as
usual. They regard no day as a Sabbath. Gambling is carried on to a
very great extent among all classes. On entering a shop at almost
any time, you will see a number of persons engaged in gambling in
the rear portion of the room. The cards are long, narrow slips of
pasteboard, with numerous Chinese characters or devices inscribed
upon them. The countenances of the players betrayed all the varieties
of expression, from that of the fortunate to the unlucky gamester.
One may behold the happy and contented look of the winner; again may
be seen the countenance livid, lips compressed, eyes glaring, and the
whole face betraying the intense excitement of the loser.
It was unsafe at this time to walk the streets of Hong Kong at night,
particularly in Typen-shang, or the Chinese portion, or among the
boatmen who congregate on the wharves. Although the police were
extremely vigilant, very frequently was the pedestrian waylaid,
knocked down, and robbed. The boatmen were not to be trusted, as
many cases occurred where seamen, returning from the shore to their
respective ships at night, were either drugged or knocked in the
head, their pockets rifled, and bodies thrown overboard. An officer
attached to the steam frigate Susquehanna, while returning to the
ship, was thus treated. His body was stripped of its clothing, and
then thrown overboard, his murderers supposing him dead. However,
the water revived him, and, being an excellent swimmer, he gained the
nearest vessel in a weak and nearly exhausted state. Another instance
came to our notice while there. The master of one of the American
merchantmen in port, while walking through the streets of the Chinese
portion of the town in broad daylight, was seized from behind, and
his gold watch taken from him. As soon as possible he gave the alarm,
and the rascal attempted flight. He was soon captured; not, however,
until, seeing escape impossible, he dashed the watch against a stone
building, thus destroying it. The punishment for theft, we were
informed, is cutting off the hair of the culprit. As this is their
greatest pride, they are disgraced forever when they lose their
“tails;” and some of them have been known, feeling the disgrace so
keenly, to proceed to the grave of a recently-interred Chinaman, rob
the dead of its ornamental appendage, and splice or fasten it upon
their own in such a manner as to escape detection; then remove to
some place where they were not known. Many are seen, however, with no
tails, and, like the fox in the fable, are shunned even by their own
companions, who have the same desire for plunder, yet lack the
courage to carry it out.
While walking through the streets of the city in search of adventure
one day, we were startled by a most horrid din, and, looking up,
saw approaching a band of musicians, blowing and beating their
instruments for dear life. Following this were the bearers of a
coffin, which was placed upon a bier, the coffin resembling very
much in shape the trunk of a tree, with the larger or spreading
part for the head of the deceased, who, we were informed, was the
“head” of a family. Next came the mourners—the wife and children
of the deceased—dressed in pure white, which is their color for
mourning. A number of the friends of the deceased, with about twenty
American sailors, “slightly elevated,” brought up the rear. The
whole procession was going on “a run”—music, mourners, and all
hands—“running away from Josh,” as Boston Jack informed us. “Josh” is
their evil spirit, and they believe that if they can get the deceased
into the ground “in a hurry,” Josh will not trouble him, especially
if music is used to frighten him; and we could not but think that
the “music by the band,” together with the shouts and yells of the
drunken sailors, was enough to frighten his Satanic majesty himself,
and drive him out of the city. We stood viewing the procession until
they passed from sight, and then came to the sage conclusion that “it
takes all kinds of people to form a world.”
They are very strict in their laws about marriage in one sense, and
rather loose in another. A Chinaman can have but one wife, who, in
marrying, assumes his name; but he is allowed as many _handmaids_
as he chooses to have. Thus they avoid polygamy, and still practice
it. Marriage, also, between those bearing the same name is unlawful.
The grounds of divorce are seven, some of which are rather amusing.
The first is barrenness; the others are adultery, disobedience to
the husband’s parents, talkativeness, thieving, ill-temper, and
inveterate infirmities. Any of these, however, may be set aside
by three circumstances: the wife having mourned for the husband’s
parents; the family, since marriage, having acquired wealth; and
the wife having no parent to receive her back. It is, in all cases,
disreputable for a widow to marry again, and in some instances,
especially those of a particular rank, it is illegal.
From the age of ten the females are kept very secluded, and have no
opportunity of intercourse with the other sex until they are married.
In fact, they never see their intended until the time of marriage.
Some of them, we should judge, would be sadly disappointed when they
come to look at each other for the first time. All that they know
of each other before marriage is through their fathers, mothers,
or aunts, which, we should think, would be rather unsatisfactory.
Yet we are inclined to the belief that they do, by some hook or
crook, manage sometimes to get a glimpse of each other’s faces
before marriage, else how could the following lines have come into
existence, especially the third line of the third verse? It is said
to be Chinese, though we rather incline to the contrary:
“Oh, daughter of the great Ching-Chum,
Whose eyes like Kasian diamonds glow,
And wilt thou love thy Fa-fe-Fum,
My sweet, my lovely Ho-ang Ho?
“The swans their downy plumage lave
Where Lano’s wandering waters flow;
But can the swans of Lano’s wave
Compare with thee, my Ho-ang Ho?
“Six moons have traveled through the skies,
And softly gleamed on Kifing-O,
Since first thy beauty met my eyes,
Light of my soul, my Ho-ang Ho.
“Oh! when I clasp thee to my breast,
Chang-fee, to whom the nations bow,
Shall not be half so truly bless’d
As Fa-fe-Fum and Ho-ang Ho!”
The birth of a son is an occasion of great rejoicing; the family, or
surname, is first given, and then the “milk name,” which is generally
some diminutive endearment. A month after the event, the relatives
and friends jointly send the child a silver plate, on which are
engraven, “Long life, honors, and felicity.” The boys are trained in
behavior and ceremonies from their earliest childhood; and at four
or five they commence reading. The importance of general education
was felt so long since in China, that a work, written before the
Christian era, speaks of the _ancient_ system of instruction, which
required that every town and village, down to only a few families,
should have a common school. The wealthy Chinese employ private
teachers, and others send their sons to day-schools, which are so
well attended that the fees paid by each boy are extremely small. In
large towns evening schools are held, that those who are compelled to
labor through the day may not be without the advantages of education.
A Chinese school is a great curiosity to an American. They all study
aloud, and it appears to cause no confusion with either teachers or
scholars, though it would in a Yankee school. But their appearance
is the greatest curiosity. Such a set of bald heads with young
bodies, their only hair a braided queue hanging down the back—such
young faces in the dress of old men, in frocks, leggins, and large
shoes, with boys’ motions and actions, and the medley of voices—such
a variety of grotesque sounds and tones, is a very novel sight, and
would make a laughable picture; but it would be necessary to produce
the sounds to give a correct idea of a Chinese school.
Of all the objects of the care of the Chinese, there are none to
which they so religiously attend as the _tombs of their ancestors_,
for they believe that any neglect is sure to be followed by worldly
misfortune. It is here that they manifest a religious zeal which is
hardly shown toward their gods. Their ceremonies connected with the
treatment of the dead are of a striking character. Aside from the
burial service, of which we have already spoken, there are others
commanded by their ritual to be performed. The original and strict
period of mourning is for a parent three years, but this is commonly
reduced in practice to twenty-seven months. Full three years must
elapse from the death of a parent before a child can marry.
A pleasing anecdote in relation to filial piety is related of a youth
named Ouang-Ouci-Yuen. Having lost his mother, who was all that
was dear to him, he passed the three years of mourning in a hut,
employing himself in his retirement composing verses in honor of his
parent. These are quoted by the Chinese as models of sentiment and
tenderness. The period of his mourning having elapsed, he returned to
his former residence, but did not forget his filial affection. His
mother had always expressed great fears of thunder, and, when it was
stormy, would request her son not to leave her. Therefore, as soon as
he heard a storm coming on, he would hasten to his mother’s grave,
saying softly to her, “_I am here, mother._”
The disposal of parental property by will is restricted to the legal
heirs. The eldest son has a double portion, or, more correctly
speaking, the property may be said to descend to the eldest son in
trust for all the younger brothers. Over them he has considerable
authority. They generally live together, and club their shares, by
which means families in this over-peopled country are more easily
supported than they otherwise would be. The constant exhortations in
the “Book of Sacred Edicts” point to this usage, and the necessity
for it, as they relate to the preservation of union and concord among
kindred and their families.
We are informed that the crime of infanticide prevails here to a
great extent, especially as regards female infants. They consider it
a great tax to bring them up and support them, as they think they
receive no particular benefit from so doing. This crime is more
common among the poorer classes, who, from their poverty, feel unable
to support them. To male children they appear much attached.
We were awakened one morning by the heavy guns of the “Susquehanna,”
and at first could not imagine the cause. But on gaining the deck
and looking around we saw all our national vessels with their
gayest colors flying, and smoke issuing from their sides. We then
recollected it was the ever-to-be-remembered 22d of February, the
anniversary birthday of our dearly-loved WASHINGTON, the best and
greatest man that ever lived. With great pride did we reflect that,
so far from our own dear land even, his name and memory were revered,
not only by his own countrymen, but by the descendants of those who
would once have gloried in his defeat and death. The English naval
vessels also dressed themselves in gay flags, the ever-beautiful
stars and stripes flying at the foremast head, and following our own
vessels in a national salute of thirty-one guns. Determined not to be
outdone by _foreigners_, after all the men-of-war in port had ceased
firing, the “Emily Morgan” hoisted the stars and stripes at the
mizzen peak, and other colors at the fore, main, and mizzen trucks,
brought her “six-pounder” to the gangway, and belched forth. This
proceeding created great astonishment among the government vessels,
who little expected to see a whaler saluting the anniversary-day.
But why not? we thought, and fired our thirty-one guns, ending with
a hearty “three times three,” which made the old harbor ring again.
The band from the “Susquehanna” now struck up “Hail Columbia,” which
seemed at once to transport us to the home of our beloved WASHINGTON,
our _own_ dearly-loved home. The house of the American consul was
thrown open to visitors, and we embraced the opportunity of calling
and paying our respects. We there met many of our countrymen, who
appeared to us like old friends, meeting at such a place and on such
an occasion.
While rambling through the city, we called at the rooms of a Chinese
artist, and there saw some beautiful paintings, mostly landscapes.
The portraits were not as well executed, the majority being mere
daubs. They appear greatly defective in painting the human figure,
not having correct ideas of proportion, or arrangement of lights
and shades. Some of the paintings representing groups looked really
ridiculous; but still, if they have a picture to copy, they do it
very finely.
Their powers of imitation, it is said, are not excelled by any
people, but they seemingly have no inventive faculties. Yet we saw
some things that would go to contradict this theory; and there is an
anecdote which was told us by a citizen of Hong Kong, who vouched
for its accuracy, that tends rather to disprove it, although the
idea carried out was not, perhaps, strictly an original one. At
the close of the celebrated “opium war,” some manufacturers at
Sheffield, England, hearing of the celebrated imitative powers of the
Chinese, sent to Hong Kong a quantity of the finest cambric needles,
requesting their agent to ascertain if they could be imitated by
the Chinese. The agent, accordingly, took some of them to a Chinese
cutler, and, telling him what was wanted, left them. In a few days
the needles were returned, with another package precisely similar,
except that the needles manufactured by the Chinaman _all had eyes
nicely drilled and finished in the points of them_! The Chinaman
called the next day after he had sent the package, and requested the
Englishman to send his needles to England, and ascertain if _they_
could be imitated. It is _needle_-ss to say that Johnny Bull never
sent John Chinaman any more cambric needles to imitate.
Still, if you wish an article made, they must have a copy, and that
copy will be _strictly followed_. An anecdote illustrating this is
related—the truth of which we do not vouch for, however—of an English
midshipman, who wished half a dozen pairs of pants made, of blue
cloth. Accordingly, he selected his tailor, gave him the order, and
left a pair as a pattern. It so happened that this pair had a small
patch on the seat, and was minus several buttons; and when the new
pants came on board, very neatly made, each had a similar patch,
and the same number of buttons missing—the Chinaman charging for the
extra sewing. As may be supposed, the middy was in a great rage; but
all the satisfaction he could get was that they were made _exactly_
like the pattern left.
The Chinese manufacture a liquor which they call “sam shu,” which
is very intoxicating, and of which they drink large quantities. It
often happens that they entice our naval seamen to partake of this
liquor, and they are as surely robbed as they _do_ partake of it,
for it is almost always drugged by them for the purpose, that they
may the easier rob poor Jack of his liberty money, or any thing else
they can carry off. On awaking, finding himself stripped of every
thing by the rascals, there is no resource for him but to return to
his ship, which is done. One would think that this treatment _once_
would be sufficient; yet it is practiced upon some many times.
Forgetting their former follies, they rush again into the embrace of
the soul-destroying, maddening cup.
Having a desire to see something of the domestic life of the
Chinese, and possessing a moderate share of what is sometimes termed
“impudence,” we, in company with two of our shipmates, invited
ourselves to _call_ upon a Chinese family. Selecting a house which
had the appearance of having a wealthy owner, we marched to the
door, and one of our number rapped. The door was opened by the lady
of the house, and in we marched. She immediately motioned us to
seats, looking at us, and evidently wondering to what she owed the
honor of this visit. The house had a very neat, tidy appearance,
as had also the hostess, who, though the mother of eight children,
appeared scarcely thirty years of age. They were boys, all but two,
and were romping about the room, raising “Ned” at a great rate. It
being their dinner-hour, she went about her business, leaving her
_polite_ visitors to make observations and amuse themselves as they
pleased. She soon returned, and placed on the centre of the floor
a large dish of boiled rice, another with vegetables, called the
children, and seated them on the floor around the “wittles.” After
passing us some tea, she took her station with the children, placed
a portion of the rice and vegetables on the plate of each one, gave
them their “chop-sticks” and told them, as we supposed, to commence.
And commence they did. These _chop-sticks_ are two round, slim pieces
of ivory, about eight inches in length, which supply the place of
both fork and spoon. With the _chop-sticks_ in the right hand and the
dish in the left, with its edge close to the mouth, the velocity with
which they “fork” down the rice is certainly surprising. They handle
these singular sticks with the greatest ease, picking up whatever
they wish, and conveying it to the mouth.
The principal food of the Chinese consists of rice, vegetables, and
fruit—eating little or no meat. The tea which our hostess had the
kindness to pass us was of a most excellent flavor. They drink no tea
but black, that being their favorite. It is very different from any
we ever drank in America, having a much better flavor. After thanking
the lady for her kindness, we took our leave, strolling into the
“Josh house,” or temple of worship.
This building is of one story, but covers a large area of ground.
It is very fancifully decorated on the outside; and on each side of
the entrance is a large sculptured dragon, about twelve or fifteen
feet in height. On coming to the gateway, we found the entrance paved
with smoothly-hewn stone, and, ascending a few steps, we entered
the building. Near the centre of the first room stands, or rather
sits, cross-legged, a great, disagreeable-looking bronze idol. It
is from twenty to thirty feet high; is represented as very fat,
with an immense belly, and laughing, as if very happy. Before him is
suspended a lantern, and in it a dim red light is burning, which is
never permitted to go out. On a table-like altar in front Josh-sticks
were smoking. In front of this table is a large metallic urn for
containing the ashes of the Josh-sticks and offerings. Before the
altar, in a line, are three stools, covered with little mats, for
the worshipers to kneel upon. Above, near the roof, is a Chinese
inscription in gilt letters; and each side of a post, extending from
the roof to the floor, is lined with the same kind of characters.
On the right were two other gods, facing toward the left, also in a
sitting posture, the legs being turned out, and the right foot of
each resting on the back of a tortoise. They were about twenty-five
or thirty feet high, and eighteen feet in circumference around
their middle. They were ornamented with bright and various colors,
and gilded and decorated in a profuse manner, appearing more like
theatrical characters than gods. Many smaller figures of the human
form are about the feet of the larger ones, as if paying them
homage. These, also, are richly and handsomely painted, and gilded
in a similar manner. All the gods have shrines, kneeling-stools,
and Josh-sticks placed before them. The first of these gods, on the
right of this room, is represented as a black man, with a huge beard,
wearing a crown, and holding a sword in one hand. This is the god
of war. The other is the god of music, with a complexion light and
delicate, animated features, and regularly trimmed mustaches. He is
playing a guitar, and smaller Chinese figures are playing at his feet.
On the left of the room, facing toward and corresponding with those
on the right, were two other gods of the same size and style, and
seated in the same manner as those on the opposite side of the hall.
One of them had in one hand a dragon’s egg, with the young dragon
just presenting itself, while in its other hand was held, writhing
about the arm, a serpent which he was crushing. The other god held a
flag, and had a very self-conceited expression of countenance, as if
he was a very great character in his own estimation. These are the
gods of vengeance and justice.
We passed through a door in the back part of the room into a second
apartment. This room contains the greatest number of idols, and is
where the principal religious ceremonies are performed. Idols are
arranged all round the room, and there are several in the centre. As
you enter the door, three huge gods, twenty-five feet high, appear,
looking very demurely, with eyes cast downward. Two goddesses, one
on each side, stand facing at right angles. They are all very richly
dressed—the goddesses particularly so, having crowns on their heads.
The others have nothing on their heads but a sort of skull-cap,
without a front-piece. The usual amount of vases, Josh-sticks, etc.,
were standing around, besides various other things, the use of which
we did not learn. On the left of the altar was a large iron kettle,
used for a drum; and there was also a hollow instrument, made from
a peculiar kind of wood, and in the shape of a large sleigh-bell,
for drumming purposes. Back of all these idols is a goddess mounted
upon an ass, the head of the animal being turned up toward her, as if
braying. The gods around the outside of this room were in two rows,
and were about the size of men, of various patterns and designs,
probably that each worshiper might choose a god for himself.
While examining matters and things in this room, a female approached,
and, going to a desk or counter that stood in one part of the room,
held a short conversation with a priest who stood there. She then
purchased a bunch of fire-crackers (such as Young America delights
in on Independence days); then advanced to one of the large idols,
kneeled down, bowing her head so that it touched the stone floor,
three times in succession. She then took two sticks or pieces of
wood, resembling oyster-shells, which she held above her head and
let fall. This she repeated, bowing her head to the stone floor two
or three times, taking particular care, however, not to strike the
floor _hard_ enough to break any of the stones, or her head either.
Appearing not to be satisfied, she arose, her countenance betraying
great anguish. Leaving her angry god, she turned to the goddess, who,
she thought, would better understand her feelings, being a woman like
herself, and, with her head bowed again, went through the same forms.
This time, on arising, she appeared more pleased, and, lighting
Josh-sticks, she again commenced, holding the burning sticks in her
hand, advancing to the goddess, then receding from it, then bowing to
the floor, striking the head, etc., besides much more that was about
as foolish. She then lighted the crackers, and threw them around in
all directions. At last she took a bamboo box of tablets in her hand,
shook it till one fell out, with some Chinese motto on it, which she
carried to the priest, who interpreted it, giving her a corresponding
slip of paper, which, we suppose, after being burned, entitles her to
some thousands of cash in their spirit-world, or admits her to some
great honors and privileges. Any person, by paying a few cash, can
shake the box and obtain a similar receipt. After chin-chinning the
principal god in the room, she departed.
In all the Chinese houses which we visited Josh-sticks are kept
continually burning, to drive away the evil spirits, and keep them
from harm.
While a part of the ship’s company were on shore enjoying themselves,
the remainder, on board ship, were continually devising means to
“kill time.” On one occasion, Tom W., our old joker, made his
appearance on deck, presenting a most comical figure. He had on a
pair of pants that came within six inches of his ankles, with a
narrow piece of leather passing around the bottom of his feet for
straps; a coat with the waist between his shoulders, and the skirts
trailing the decks; the whole surmounted by a tall, bell-crowned
hat, with narrow rim. About his neck was suspended a boatswain’s
whistle. Rigged out in this style, he mounted the “hurricane deck,”
and commenced pacing to and fro with great dignity. On board the
“Susquehanna” they were exercising the men in loosing and furling
the sails, and every time the whistle of the boatswain sounded on
board, Tom replied, imitating them as nearly as possible, and turning
“full front” to the frigate, over whose sides were seen sundry heads,
peering at the whaler to see what could be the matter. To all this,
however, Tom paid no attention, but continued his dignified strut,
interspersing his walk with all manner of “calls” on his boatswain’s
whistle. The quarter-master of the frigate now leveled his glass
at the whaler’s “boatswain,” and took a long squint. Perceiving
this, Tom called for his glass, and one of the boys passed him a
_handspike_. Bringing it to bear, he “squinted” in return at the
quarter-master; then would take a turn or two fore and aft the
deck, give a shrill whistle, and again level his “glass.” By this
time most of the officers of the “Susquehanna” were gathered on the
quarter-deck of that vessel, staring at us, and probably thinking all
hands drunk or crazy. Tom, who knew how far to carry the joke, now
came down from his elevated position.
The sails having been loosed to dry during the day, toward evening
the watch were sent up to furl them. Every thing in readiness, Tom’s
whistle sounded, all hands sprang into the rigging, and mounted
aloft. The sail was rolled on the yard at the sound of the whistle;
the men descended from aloft, and mounted, furled a second, then a
third sail, and so on through the whole programme: all was done at
the sound of the boatswain’s whistle. This proceeding “astonished
the natives;” the officers and crews of the several men-of-war and
other vessels gazing at the new “wrinkle,” and systematic style of
performing work on board a _Yankee sperm whaler_!
Notwithstanding the fact that numerous naval vessels belonging to
the United States, England, and France are nearly all the time on
this station, yet the coast and Canton River swarm with Chinese
pirates. The government of China, also, has an armed junk, mounting
twelve guns, stationed on the coast, for the ostensible purpose of
protecting commerce; but it is pretty strongly believed that this
Chinese man-of-war not only winks at the piracies committed, but
is not backward about running up the black flag herself on certain
occasions. About the time we arrived at Hong Kong, a brig bound to
some part of the East Indies was overhauled, before she was clear
of the bay, by a number of fishing-junks, as they professed to call
themselves, and, after massacring nearly all the crew, and wounding
the remainder—leaving them dead, as they supposed—they rifled the
brig, taking away every thing they found of any value. The next
morning she was found in this disabled condition by the Chinese
man-of-war, who took her in tow, and brought her into port. One
of the English men-of-war immediately got under weigh, and, after
cruising among the various islands a few days, overhauled some of
the junks and brought them in. The prisoners were immediately taken
ashore and tried; several were hung, and the remainder imprisoned at
hard labor for the remainder of their lives.
We had heard much of the Chinese theatre, or Sing Song, as they term
it, and concluded we would pay it a visit. The building, which is a
temporary erection, is very large, built of bamboo, and capable of
containing four or five thousand persons. The gallery is large and
commodious, it being built for the accommodation of the “fan-qui-loo”
(foreign devils). The Celestials occupy the pit, and, there being no
seats, they are compelled to stand. To see such a mass of heads, “all
shaven and shorn,” in one compact space, swaying to and fro, and hear
the continual buzz of their voices, is really amusing. And then to
watch them as a policeman goes through the crowd, semi-occasionally
bringing his short club down upon the bare heads of the Chinese,
just heavy enough to make them sing out “Hi-yar-r-h! how can do?
no proper.” Still, they make room for him, not caring to receive a
second whack. After looking at the crowd below us, and wondering
where they all came from, until we became somewhat restless, we were
fairly startled by a most frightful, horrible din. Gongs, bells,
and sundry other equally harmonious instruments were made visible,
and the “orchestra” were beating and playing them as if each were
paid according to the amount of noise he made, and was determined
to win. This horrible _music_, as they termed it, appeared to
increase, until we were obliged to stop our ears with our fingers, to
prevent being entirely deafened. However, it ceased as suddenly as
it commenced, and the performers made their appearance, dressed in
the richest Chinese style. Alter going through a sort of pantomime,
which lasted about half an hour, a couple of them, who appeared to
be leaders of the different parties, jabbered away at each other in
Chinese, and finally commenced a regular fight, which soon became
general, all hands “pitching in” in the most scientific Chinese
manner. Fire-crackers were burned, gongs sounded, and other warlike
demonstrations generally were gone through with, until one of the
parties, having killed their opponents, now dragged them from the
stage. This was followed by other scenes equally interesting to those
who could understand nothing that was said. The performances closed
by acrobatic feats, which were equal, if not superior, to any we ever
saw. We can only sum up the whole by saying the crowd was immense,
the performance nonsensical, and the music horrible.
The Chinese method of erecting stone buildings is very singular; and,
although it shows the inferiority of the Celestials to the “outside
barbarians,” still it is very ingenious. A perpendicular bamboo wall
is first built as a guide, and the stones are then laid inside and
against it till the walls are complete. One would naturally think
that they could lay the stone wall as perpendicular as they could
build the bamboo, yet we were assured they could not. We noticed a
fine building in process of erection—a masonic temple. This building
was for the use of a lodge working under a charter from England, and
composed of English and American residents.
We were rejoiced to learn that a “Bethel” had been established
in Hong Kong, and we gladly accepted the opportunity given us of
attending it. It is a floating “Bethel,” and seems especially
adapted to the wants of seamen, who feel much more “at home” there
than inside brick walls. The chaplain appeared to be an excellent,
earnest, kind man, devoted to the cause in which he was engaged. We
were pleased to notice the quiet deportment and strict attention paid
to the remarks by the seamen in attendance.
We had now been in Hong Kong several weeks, and it was time for the
“old man” to think of deep water again. Accordingly, on Tuesday,
February 28th, we commenced preparations for sea—for our _last_
cruise. Our provisions, water and all, were on board, and all that
was wanting was the word, and the anchor would soon be apeak. A
little incident transpired, however, which served to detain us a
day longer. Several Chinese merchants were on board, showing their
goods and doing their best endeavors to effect sales. They knew,
from seeing the “Blue Peter” at the fore, that we were to sail on
that day, and they were off in great numbers in consequence. Among
the rest were several shoemakers, who appeared _determined_ to sell.
After a good deal of bargaining and bantering, the chief mate ordered
all to leave _instanter_. In collecting their shoes preparatory to
leaving, one of them discovered, or supposed he discovered, a pair
missing, for which he had received no pay. This put him in a great
rage, and he left muttering vengeance on the “’parme whaler,” as he
termed it. He soon returned, however, accompanied by a policeman,
who explained what he came for. The Chinaman charged one of the
crew with stealing them, whose chest was immediately searched, but
no shoes were found. There was now no remedy but the man must go on
shore before a magistrate. In company with the chief mate, the man
proceeded to the magistrate’s office, where the Chinaman was called
upon to make his statement. After having sworn him as to the truth of
it, the _prisoner_ was put upon the _witness’_ stand and sworn. On
being asked if he saw the Chinaman on board the ship with shoes for
sale, he answered “yes.”
“Did you take any of those shoes unlawfully?” was the next question.
“No, sir,” was the answer.
“Did you _see_ any person take any shoes unlawfully from the
plaintiff?”
“No, sir.”
The magistrate now turned to the Celestial, and sternly remarked:
“Look here, John Chinaman, if you ever come before me again with such
a story, I will send you to the ‘lock-up’ for two years,” and then
dismissed the case.
The following day, March 1st, we took our anchor from China soil,
bade adieu to Hong Kong, and with light hearts made sail for Japan.
The pilot remained with us until the day following, when we took
leave of him with three hearty cheers, with three more for a “lucky
cruise.”