Island of Rota.—Appearance.—Streets and Houses.—Inhabitants.—
Governor.—Guam.—Umata Bay.—Procuring Water.—Marisa.—Its
Appearance.—Port of Apia.—Fort.—Liberty.—A splendid Ride.—
Boarding-houses.—Police.—Reflections.—Inhabitants.—Choppers.—A
cowardly Murder.—Bombardment of the Palace.—Attend Mass.—Toddy.—
Streets.—Houses.—Palace.—Calaboose.—Cock-fighting.—Seminary.—
Insurrection of Prisoners.—Females.—Take a Stroll.—Ruins.—
Reservoir.—Tobacco.—Betel Nut.—Captain Anderson.—Rebellion.—
Jollification.—A novel Mode of choosing a Governor.—
Congratulations.—Parade.—Aguadente.—Caroline Islanders.—Last Day
on Shore.—Arguing the Point.—Disarming the Guard.—“Where is my
Musket?”—Visit to the Fort.—Strange Doings.—Ready for Sea.
With a strong breeze and all sail out, we were not long in reaching
the Ladrone Islands. Tuesday, April 6th, at daylight, saw the
island of Rota, bearing west half north, distant thirty miles. In
the afternoon, in company with a boat from the “Mohawk,” we went
on shore and procured a few hogs, yams, and fruit. This island is
one of the most magnificent in appearance from the sea that we have
yet seen. The land is moderately high, and thickly covered with
evergreen foliage, with an occasional opening, showing the marks of
cultivation. The town is built on a level spot of ground, with great
regularity and neatness; the houses are all whitewashed or painted,
and the streets kept clean. The inhabitants are very courteous and
friendly, and evince quite a degree of civilization. They have a
fine-looking church here, Roman Catholic, of course, which is built
of stone, and looks much better on the outside than the inside. The
governor received the captain, dressed in full uniform. He is a tall,
noble-looking Spaniard, but the dress appeared as if it were made for
some more bulky personage; perhaps he wore it _ex-officio_. One of
the boys exclaimed, on seeing him, “The old governor’s clothes set
like a purser’s shirt on a handspike.” His palace, as they term it,
is a very comfortable-looking stone building, the calaboose adjoining
it.
The next morning we were close in to the island of Guam. We took a
pilot and proceeded to Umata Bay, where we dropped anchor about three
P.M. Umata Bay is the watering-place for all whalers who refit at
Guam, as it is the only point on the island where fresh water can be
readily obtained. It is called a bay, but it is merely a roadstead,
as ships anchoring here are exposed to the sea in all directions
except the eastward.
Both ships’ companies were at it next morning rafting water, and made
the old hills resound to the chorus of the merry song as they bent
back to the tugging oar.
We took the opportunity of visiting the town of Marisa, situated
three miles below Umata Bay, and found a very pretty village. The
houses are all on one street, which is very long. One peculiarity
we could not but notice: the street was swept very clean, and we
observed many Spaniards of both sexes engaged in sweeping it,
probably paying the penalty of breaking some law. The church here is
a fine edifice, and contains two large bells, which ring out merrily
for vespers. Although the governor has his permanent residence at
Guam, yet he occasionally leaves the “heat and turmoil of city
life,” and, taking his family for a visit to the “country,” spends
a week or so in this village, where he has a large palace. After
rambling around to our entire satisfaction, and spending the day
very pleasantly, we returned with a fine breeze, the boat fairly
flying through the water. We felt quite fatigued in consequence of
our jaunt, but, after a refreshing rest, awoke next morning ready for
another day’s tramp.
We improved the day in visiting the town of Umata Bay, and a short
ramble in the mountains back. The village differed but little from
that of Marisa: the same long street, swept clean; the same white
houses; and, were it not for the absence of the palace and the
difference in the country adjoining, one would almost imagine himself
in the same village.
At two P.M. on Saturday, April 10th, we took on board the last of
five hundred barrels of water, hove up the anchor with a will, and
steered for the port of Apia. We arrived here the next morning,
where we cast anchor. This is the anchorage, and the only safe one,
for ships refitting at Guam, and is situated seven miles from the
town or village of Guam, which is the capital of the group. The port
of Apia is a fine bay, situated on the west side of the island,
protected from the sea by a reef running across, with an entrance
of about half a mile in width. This island, like nearly all in the
Pacific, is surrounded by a coral reef. In the centre of the bay is a
small island, on which is a fine-looking fort, with five or six guns
mounted for the protection of the commerce of the island. We found
several ships lying at anchor here, from some of which we obtained
quite late news from home.
It is customary for ships that refit here to allow their men to go on
shore and remain a week or ten days at a time, as the distance is so
great—seven miles from town—that one day’s liberty at a time would be
worth but little. Accordingly, on Monday, April 12th, the starboard
watch were given a week’s liberty, while the other watch remained
on board to paint ship. On landing, what was our surprise to see a
large number of cows standing near, and, to our astonishment, we were
informed that they were there for our accommodation, if we chose.
For the sum of fifty cents we could enjoy a fine horseback ride on a
cow “up to town.” As there were men from four ships going in company
(nearly sixty of us), we all entered into the spirit of the affair,
and each man selected his “horned beast” and mounted.
And now ensued a scene that beggars description. Leather thongs
were made fast to the horns for the rider to hold on by, and the
Spaniard, who led off on a noble animal, seeing all was ready,
shouted “Arriva!” and away he went on the full run, the others
following; the men having no saddles, some were rolling from side to
side, some had seated themselves “wrong-end first,” and all, instead
of hanging on to the thongs, reach forward, and, grasping the horns,
hang on like _grim death_; the cows, with their heads stretched
forward to the utmost, their bells jingling, each one bellowing and
snorting, and their riders, instead of sitting upright, stretched
in a horizontal position, their legs extended, and yelling like so
many wild Indians; the old Spaniard shouting and singing in Spanish,
and the whole cavalcade upon the full run—all this produced one of
the wildest scenes imaginable. As the procession entered the town,
Spaniards of both sexes, men, women, and children, rushed to the
street, shouting and laughing at the “Americanos.” The old Spaniard
kept on, and, after having made the circuit of the town, brought up
at the “Grand Plaza” in front of the governor’s palace, the poor
riders being almost insensible from the continual and deafening din
that surrounded them.
They halted here, and all hands joyfully dismounted; the Spaniards
crowded around to congratulate them on their _good riding_, but,
paying no attention to them, they “_vamosed_” in search of a
boarding-house. By the laws of the island, every white man or
foreigner must have a boarding-house, and be within doors at eight
P.M. This is necessary, that good order may be preserved in the
night-time, and tends to prevent many disgraceful scenes that would
otherwise occur.
The police here are very vigilant. Every person who keeps a
boarding-house is compelled to report the names of his boarders,
and about eight P.M. the captain of the police goes around to see
if all are in. If any are absent from their respective houses, they
are found and marched home; and should they be saucy, or show any
belligerent spirit, off they go to the calaboose. This also tends to
prevent desertions, as the governor allows no white man to remain on
the island unless sick. There are a few old residents here who are
exceptions, they being citizens.
Loving an early morning walk, five A.M. the next day after our
arrival on shore found us “up and dressed,” and out. It was truly a
lovely morning, the sun shining brightly, birds singing sweetly, and
the church bells ringing merrily. As we walked along the banks of
a quiet stream, how did these sounds bring up in our minds similar
scenes at home—our own peaceful stream, the feathery songsters,
and the old church bells. But the roar of the surf dashing over
the breakers reminded us that many, many miles of “deep blue sea”
separated us from our homes, and that many days must pass ere we
could again live over those happy days, and our present musings be
realized.
The inhabitants of this island are of the Malay race, intermixed with
the Spaniards. They are generally very kind and hospitable to the
stranger, often inviting him to their houses, and setting before him
refreshments, fruits, etc.; but if offended, they are revengeful to
a sanguinary degree. Many of them carry short, thick swords, called
“choppers,” by their sides, which they use for clearing their small
farms and other purposes. With these choppers they frequently commit
horrible outrages, inflicting, in the heat of passion, terrible
wounds upon each other, or upon any one who may chance to give them
cause for affront, fancied or real.
It was at this island that Captain Stevens, master of an English
whaler, was murdered a few years since, in a cowardly and brutal
manner. He was set upon by a gang of desperadoes, under direction
of the then governor, with whom Captain S. had had some difficulty.
The miscreants stole into his room and took his pistols, which were
lying on the table, and, on going out to ascertain who had committed
the theft, he was attacked and fairly cut to pieces, the wretches
not desisting until they had murdered him. It is reported that the
governor was punished by his own government and removed from the
island.
An amusing incident occurred a few years ago, illustrating the
bravery of the governor and the army. The master of an American
whaler, being ready for sea, and some of his men being imprisoned
in the calaboose for some trifling breach of the laws, went to the
governor and demanded his men, stating that he was ready for sea, and
should sail at four P.M. His excellency replied that he could not
have them unless he paid the fine imposed, which was a very large
amount. The captain, thinking, from the large amount imposed for so
slight a breach committed, it a mere plan to extort money from him,
replied that he would pay no money to the governor, whereupon the
latter replied that “he could not have his men.” The captain took his
leave, saying that if the men were not on board at four P.M., he,
the governor, must suffer the consequences. He now proceeded to his
ship, weighed anchor, left the harbor, and at four P.M. was opposite
the town. When within about a quarter of a mile of the shore, and
directly opposite the palace, he hauled aback his main-yard, ran up
the stars and stripes, and commenced to bombard the palace with one
six-pounder, which was all the cannon he had on board. Almost within
range of the palace, and situated at the water’s edge, was a stone
fort with several guns mounted. The brave commander did not see fit
to return the fire, when he might have blown the ship to atoms.
After half a dozen shots had been fired, a flag of truce was seen on
the fort. He ceased firing, and a boat was soon seen approaching the
ship containing his men and a file of soldiers, the commandant of
whom gave him the compliments of the governor, who, he said, had sent
his men, and requested him to cease firing, as one shot had taken
effect in the palace, and actually lodged in his private room. The
captain took his men and departed. The governor still preserves the
ball, and frequently exhibits it to visitors as the one the Yankee
skipper fired at him.
We had received an invitation to attend mass with some of our
Spanish friends, and, arousing ourselves at four A.M. on Wednesday,
April 14th, we proceeded to the church. It is a fine-looking stone
building, very large and massive, with a chime of bells in its tower.
On entering, we found it well lighted, and filled with Spaniards of
both sexes. It is beautifully furnished inside, many of the ornaments
and holy vessels being of gold and silver. The services were solemn
and impressive, and, although they worshiped in a different manner
from us, yet we could not but feel a devotional sentiment within
us as we listened to the beautiful chant, and witnessed the devout
worshipers at their devotions. It seemed to bring us nearer to the
land of Christianity, accustomed as we had been, for months past, to
attend no place of public worship.
On arriving at our boarding-house after mass, we found some delicious
“toddy” awaiting us. This, when fresh from the tree, is a palatable
and pleasant drink, and is highly beneficial to a person coming
ashore after a long cruise on salt water, and living mostly on salt
provisions. It is procured by a person called a “toddy-cutter,” who
ascends to the top of a cocoanut-tree in the shade of the evening,
and cuts a number of notches at the root of one of the limbs,
hanging a long piece of bamboo underneath, which in the morning
is found filled with the delicious beverage. After collecting his
several bamboo vessels, he proceeds to distribute them at the
different boarding-houses, supplying all who may wish with this
excellent beverage. It is needless to say that the “toddy-cutter” was
very liberally patronized while so many seamen were on shore. There
are no intoxicating qualities in the toddy, no more than in a glass
of soda or lemonade.
The streets of Guam are very wide and straight, and are kept clean.
The houses are built compactly of wood and stone; those built of
wood, which comprise the greater number, are elevated on frame-work
and posts four or five feet above the ground. They are mostly of one
story, painted white, and are neat and orderly in appearance. The
stone houses are built in a substantial manner, and look very solid
and comfortable. The governor’s palace is a long stone building of
two stories, with nothing remarkable about it to indicate it as the
_palace_ of the governor of the great island of Guam. The west end
of it joins the calaboose, which is a solid stone building of one
story, and they are both guarded by sentries. Immediately in front of
both buildings is the “Grand Plaza,” in the centre of which is the
cock-pit.
The inhabitants here delight in the cruel exhibition of cock-fighting,
and manifest great interest in the combats. Not being satisfied with
seeing these noble fowls destroy each other with the weapons which
nature has given them, they place on them steel spurs shaped similar
to a scythe, which are made very sharp. Armed with these destructive
weapons, the contest is soon decided, as the first blow frequently
kills the unlucky bird. These exhibitions always take place on the
Sabbath, as that is their grand gala day. At the time appointed the
arena is opened, a ring made, and no person allowed inside the rope
but the judges and owners of the cocks. The space around is completely
thronged with old, middle-aged and young men, who enter into this
cruel sport with the greatest animation. Even the governor is always
present, witnessing the combats, and betting as freely as any one.
The fowls are large, noble-looking animals, of the Malay breed, and
upon two being brought into the ring, the betting commences with great
excitement, from a rial to a dollar, and more, according to the wealth
of the parties. One Spaniard holds up his finger, and shouts out the
name of the fowl he chooses to bet on; another, seeing him, raises his
in the same manner, and names his favorite; and so on around the ring.
The signal is given, and the cocks, being let loose, fly at each other,
and, as we before remarked, the combat is soon terminated. Those who
have lost now pay over the stakes, and two more fowls are entered.
This continues through the greater portion of the afternoon, and it is
surprising to see the large quantity of noble-looking fowls slain.
On the east side of the Plaza is a fine-looking stone building used
as a seminary, which is supported by the Church, for the purpose of
educating those who can not afford to attend private schools, and of
protecting and educating the orphan. This institution is the pride of
the island, and may well be considered as such, for it is productive
of great and lasting benefit. The scholars manifest much interest in
their studies, and their behavior and accomplishments would compare
favorably with many similar institutions in our own land, where the
opportunities of a good education are so general.
A few months since the prisoners confined in the calaboose, about one
hundred in number, attempted to take the palace. Their plans were all
laid; a part were to attack in front, the remainder in the rear. The
object was to obtain possession of the arms and ammunition contained
in the palace, and then to make an attempt to capture the island.
The plot was discovered, however, just in time to frustrate it; and,
after some severe fighting, during which about twenty-five were
killed, the remainder were secured, and sent to Manilla for trial,
and were there hung.
While walking through the town one evening, we heard the sound of
music issuing from a building near by. On presenting ourselves at the
door, we were invited in, and found the room filled with females,
with but one or two exceptions. It was the hour of vespers. At one
end of the room was the image of the Virgin Mary and the Crucifixion.
Those chanting were on their knees, with their hands crossed on
their breasts, the very picture of humility and meekness. As their
sweet voices mingled in the beautiful chant of “_Ave, Sanctissima_,”
we could not but be struck with the solemnity and sublimity of the
scene. If woman be all she is represented to be, lively, charming,
and angelic, she is certainly more than this when engaged in offering
devotion to Almighty GOD, and imploring the aid of the divine Savior.
The females of Guam are remarkably fair-looking: keen black eyes,
long, flowing black hair, smooth complexion, and possessed of a
robust and well-rounded form; their step light and elastic, and very
graceful in their movements. One of these dark-eyed beauties in
the attitude of prayer, her hands beseechingly clasped, her loose
hair flowing luxuriantly around her well-rounded shoulders, and her
countenance expressive of meekness and innocence, would form a model
for the chisel of a Powers.
After vespers we passed a very pleasant evening with these lively,
chatting beauties, from whom we learned much of interest in regard to
the island; and we must confess to a slight feeling of regret when we
heard the bells peal forth the hour of eight, compelling us to say to
them “_Adios_.”
The next day we had planned for a stroll in the country round, and
before 6 A.M. were on our way, with two Spanish lads about eighteen
years of age as guides. We passed several farms on our route, and,
from appearances, we should judge the occupants to be well skilled in
agriculture. About five miles northeast of the town we came to the
ruins of a large stone building, which, our guides informed us, were
the remains of a monastery, and built, as they said, “very many year
ago.” On examining an arch or gateway, we found the keystone marked
1636. The stones appeared regularly hewn and well fitted. It would
seem from this that the art of masonry was understood here more than
two hundred years ago, as this building must have been erected under
the supervision of a _master mason_, well-skilled in the use of the
_square, level, plumb, and trowel_.
Near this pile of ruins is a large stone reservoir, about thirty
feet in length, twenty-five in width, and thirty to forty in depth.
At this time it had about three feet depth of water in it. This
reservoir was probably built at the same time as the monastery, as
our guide said, on asking him when it was built, “_Tiempo Casa Dios_”
(at the time of the building of the house of GOD).
After walking some distance farther, nothing of interest presenting
itself, we set out on our return. When within about one mile of town,
we noticed several large sheds filled with tobacco, which is grown
here in large quantities. The inhabitants, however, do not understand
manufacturing it otherwise than into cigars. All smoke here—men,
women, and children; and we must confess that it detracts somewhat
from the beauty of a young lady to see her promenading the street
with a huge cigar in her mouth, puffing away most lustily; but this
spectacle is so common here that one soon becomes accustomed to it.
The betel-nut is chewed by “all hands,” giving a reddish cast to the
teeth, of which they all seem very proud. The young Ladrone beauty
prides herself as much on the bright-red appearance of her teeth as
the American ladies do on the pearly whiteness of theirs.
On arriving at our boarding-house we found ourselves covered with
mud, and possessed of alarming appetites. It is useless to add that
we did ample justice to the fine dish of curried chickens, with all
the “fixins to match,” which was set before us.
Not forgetting our old friend, Captain Anderson, we called upon him
next day, Friday, April 16th, and learned some very interesting and
amusing facts connected with the history of the island, one of which
we will relate as he gave it to us: Some years ago Captain A. and
a few more English residents contrived a plan to make themselves
possessors of the island. They secretly worked, step by step, at
the same time insinuating themselves into the good graces of the
governor. Their plans worked to a charm, and, when they were fully
matured, they quietly took possession of the palace, the governor
having been made, as Captain. A. expressed it, “as drunk as a boiled
owl.” As they now had possession of all the arms and ammunition, it
was an easy matter to subdue the natives, which they did in short
order, without loss of life on either side, covering themselves with
glory. As a matter of course, the new lords and masters must have a
glorious jollification over the affair, and at the same time agree on
a governor. This latter, however, proved no easy task, as all were
equally anxious to “serve their country” in being chief dignitary of
the island. After consulting and debating some hours, and finding
they were no nearer a decision than at first, they decided to have
a _spree_, and whoever should remain sober the longest, and see the
others all laid out, should be the honorable governor. Accordingly,
at it they went; bottle after bottle disappeared; one by one they
voluntarily relinquished their seats and quietly rolled under the
table. After a short time no one remained in his seat but Captain
A., and he, feeling elated at his success, drank a few bumpers to
“Captain Anderson, the future governor of the distinguished island
of Guam.” But, as he said, “he was born under an unlucky star.” So
it proved, as the bumpers he drank to his own good health keeled him
over, and he took his place among his comrades.
The Spaniards, who had been watching these proceedings with no small
degree of interest, seeing how matters stood, and the would-be
governors gloriously drunk, very adroitly bound them hand and foot.
The dethroned governor was, of course, immediately reinstated, and
the next day these _noble spirits_ were arraigned for trial. Being
convicted of treason, they were sentenced to be placed on a raft,
taken out to sea, and then cast loose, leaving them at the mercy of
the winds and waves. This was accordingly done; and, after drifting
about several days, they were safely landed on the island of Tinian
(one of the group.) Here they resided some time; finally, expressing
their sorrow for what they had done, the governor pardoned them,
and permitted them to make Guam their future residence, on swearing
allegiance to the government and promising to be true and loyal
citizens.
The week was now closed which had been given to one watch from each
ship for liberty. Accordingly, they returned to their respective
ships, and the other watches came on shore—about the same number of
men. They arrived in due form and procession; and, as we could now
look on and witness the performance, we enjoyed the scene with a
hearty good-will. As soon as they dismounted, we were among the first
to offer our congratulations on their grand and imposing entrée. How
natural for men, on finding themselves taken in and done for, to
watch and enjoy seeing others victimized. Thus it was in this case;
all would speak highly of their merry ride, particularly when in the
presence of the uninitiated.
As we before remarked, Sunday is the grand gala day of the inhabitants
here. Among other things, we witnessed a parade and review of the
_army_ stationed here by the governor, numbering, officers, high
privates and all, twenty-five. They do duty as policemen as well as
soldiers. They were not a very formidable-looking body of men; some
were dressed in white, and some in blue, with fancifully decorated
cloth caps. A portion of them were armed with muskets, the remainder
with spears. However, they performed their evolutions very well,
although we do not believe their commander ever studied _Scott’s
Tactics_.
At the close of the morning service every one appeared preparing for
the afternoon sports. At an early hour the space around the cock-pit
was crowded with young and old, anxiously awaiting the sport, as they
term it, to commence. At two o’clock the fighting began between two
noble-looking fowls. The betting ran high, but the battle was soon
decided by one of the cocks receiving a home-thrust that pierced his
heart. The fighting now continued in this manner until about thirty
were slain. In the evening nearly every house was thrown open to
receive calls from “Americanos” and others, who were entertained with
music and refreshments.
A kind of liquor called “aguadente” is distilled here, very
intoxicating in its qualities, yet the effects are not as bad as are
those of the poisonous liquors sold in this country. We expected to
see the “Americanos” nearly all drunk on this day, as we knew it
would circulate pretty freely; but to their credit be it said, not
one of them became intoxicated. They all seemed to shun it, whether
it was because it was the Sabbath, or for what reason we know not,
but “all hands” continued sober through the day.
The following morning, on strolling along the beach, we found several
“Caroline Island” canoes had arrived during the night. These canoes
are about forty feet in length and six feet beam, quite deep, and
will carry from fifteen to twenty tons. They are provided with an
extensive outrigger to prevent their capsizing, and carry a large
mat sail. When under full sail in a strong breeze, being very sharp
in their construction, they skim along over the water with amazing
velocity. The natives are large, robust fellows, with no clothing
but the _tappa_, or a fine mat worn across the shoulders in the
form of a scarf. Each canoe carries one family, and they appear to
live in a very peaceable and happy manner on board their diminutive
craft. Their island homes are about four degrees to the southward.
On inquiring of them through a Spaniard, as interpreter, how they
found the island, they replied, pointing upward, “Stars by night, sun
by day.” Their cargo consists of hats, mats, and shells. In return,
they take tobacco, pipes, calico, and aguadente. These canoes ply
regularly between the Caroline Islands and Guam.
The time had now come for all hands to return on board. Another week
had flown, and we must leave the land for the water again. But the
boys wished to have a “grand time” before leaving, and the last day
each one appeared to be determined to make the most of. Long Manuel,
our Portugee, appeared very much troubled by the _width_ of the
various streets he was attempting to explore, while our Kanakas were
singing their native songs with considerable mirth and _high_-larity.
In the evening they all assembled for a dance at one boarding-house
at an early hour. They had secured the services of four Spaniards
as fiddlers, and on their arrival at it they went. Eight o’clock
came, and with it also came the chief of police, ordering them to
cease dancing, stop their noise, and disperse. On hearing this, Tom
W., the ship’s wag, who had “imbibed” pretty freely, proceeded to
“argue the point” with the policeman, who could understand but little
English. He continued to lay it down in a very emphatic manner,
using language that seemed to completely nonplus the Spaniard, who
would occasionally refer to the boarding-house landlord, and inquire
what the man was talking so earnestly about. The landlord, who well
understood what was up, replied that Tom was praising the island and
their rules and regulations. This the Spaniard believed, as Tom would
occasionally introduce into his speech the words “Bueno Espaniolo”
(excellent Spaniards), and end it by inviting him to drink. This part
the policeman could understand without any difficulty, and, after
having drunk several times, he became as merry as the rest, and,
finding he could do nothing with them, departed.
In a short time a file of soldiers made their appearance. The
sergeant, who could neither speak English nor understand it, informed
the landlord that he must disperse the sailors and shut up his house.
The landlord, however, shut the door in his face, and told Tom what
was going on, who, instantly seizing a bottle, ran out and offered it
to the officer; but of no avail; he was not to be bribed in so easy a
manner. Tom now turned his attention to the soldiers, and passed the
bottle so freely among them that the sergeant ordered them to cease
drinking. However, another bottle was soon produced, and a more merry
lot of soldiers was never seen. In vain the officer endeavored to put
a stop to the proceedings; they were now all in the house, and had
entered into the spirit of the evening; and while all hands, sailors
and soldiers, were dancing, Tom very carefully took all their
muskets and hid them in a quiet place.
Thus matters moved along, the noise and fun increasing, until
the hour of twelve, at which time the guard were to return to
head-quarters, make their report, and be relieved. As the bell tolled
forth the hour, they seemed to regain possession of their senses;
visions of the guard-house floated across their minds, and they well
knew it was their doom unless they immediately departed. But now
all was confusion: “Where is my musket?” was the general cry; but
no muskets were to be found. They raved and swore, but all to no
purpose; no one could tell what had become of them. On hearing the
sound of the first relief bell, they rushed for the door pell-mell,
and found their officer had already taken his departure. They waited
no longer, but ran down the streets at full speed. As soon as
they were out of sight, Tom took the muskets, carried them to the
river, and, wading to a considerable depth, _safely deposited_ the
“government arms,” and then returned to the house, where the dance
was kept up without farther interruption.
The next morning all hands took leave of the goodly city of Guam, and
returned to their respective ships.
One evening before our departure a delegation from each ship in port
visited the fort near the anchorage. We found it a solid piece of
masonry, mounting six guns of eighteen pounds calibre. It is entirely
surrounded by water, and guarded by a few soldiers. About 2 A.M. the
several delegations returned, and at daylight a _small army_ was seen
approaching. Wondering what could be the cause of this, we were all
on the _qui vive_ for news. We soon learned that they had come to
_retake the fort_! It appears that the whalemen had gone for a lark,
and had driven the soldiers ashore from the fort, taken possession
of it, unshipped the guns, and turned things around to their own
liking—spilling things generally. The conquering army approached
the premises very cautiously, and, after considerable manœuvring,
entered, but found the premises vacant, thus obtaining a great and
bloodless victory. No doubt they considered it a great achievement,
and had it proclaimed as such among their countrymen.
Every thing being now “shipshape and Bristol fashion,” we took our
departure for the Japan ground, determined to give battle to the
sperm whale _this_ season as we had never before done, knowing that
every whale that we now captured shortened our voyage materially.