Strong’s Island.—King.—Canker.—Dress.—Chiefs.—Description of the
Island.—Large Island.—Small Island.—Productions.—Wild Game.—
Canals.—Stone Walls.—Who built them?—Ruins.—Suppositions.—A
Rebellion.—Customs.—Queen.—Princes and Princesses.—Sekane.—Cæsar.—
Natives.—Females.—“Strong’s Island Trowsers.”—Employments.—
Houses.—Marriages.—Sports.—Canoes.—Carva.—Banyan-tree.—Religion.—
“Blueskin.”—Traditions.—Priests.—Rites and Ceremonies.—Funeral
Ceremonies.—Rotumah Tom.—Food of the Natives.—Blueskin and his
Procession.—Friday’s Opinion.—The Feast.—“Very good,” but think we
won’t indulge.—Choose our “Hotel.”—An unpleasant Surprise.—
“Planter.”—Mutiny and its Consequences.—Desertion.—One kind of
Navigation.—A Stroll to Large Island.—Friday and the Taboo.—
Incidents in Port.—Weighed Anchor.—“Mary Frazier.”—Death and
Burial of Mr. S.—A few random Thoughts.
For nine long and weary months had the “Emily” been from port. During
this time but few of the ship’s company had put foot upon land, and
glad indeed were we when Strong’s Island hove in sight. We were
experiencing heavy weather, but on Thursday, December 12th, the wind
gradually grew less boisterous, and as we neared the land, steering
for the passage, died away, leaving us at its mouth in a dead calm;
but we down boats, and every man “pulled with a will,” and soon towed
the old ship in, and at 7 P.M. we once more dropped anchor, weary
with labor, but refreshed at the sight of the land, and the prospect
of “stretching our legs” on shore once more.
[Illustration: STRONG’S ISLAND.]
His majesty King Tocasaw, _alias_ King George, accompanied by his
eldest son, the Canker, heir-apparent to the throne, and some of
the most distinguished chiefs, came off to visit us and welcome us
to their island. King George is a fine, intelligent-looking native
of about fifty. His court dress, which is only worn on _great_
occasions like the present, consists of—a red woolen shirt! Canker
has the appearance of a shrewd, unscrupulous fellow, with a most
rascally expression of countenance. He is second in command to the
king. Cæsar, the king’s brother, is also an intelligent-looking
chief, and appears to be full and running over with fun. We were much
surprised to find them speaking such good English.
The next morning, on looking about us, we found ourselves in a most
beautiful harbor, completely shut in from the sea, lying about
fifty yards from the shore. The beach is entirely covered with
cocoanut-trees, and the mountains, rising with a gradual slope,
expose to view the brilliant foliage of the bread-fruit and mangrove
trees.
This island is entirely surrounded by a reef, varying from a few rods
to half a mile from the shore. Through the reef Nature has left an
opening of about fifty fathoms, or one hundred yards, which admits
of the passage of ships of the largest size. The main island is some
thirty miles in circumference, and on the north side the shore forms
a deep lagoon. Immediately in front of this lagoon is the “small
island,” which extends from one extreme point of the bay to the
other, being separated on the westerly side from the large island by
a few hundred feet of shallow water, of not sufficient depth to admit
the passage of a craft of any size, and this is bordered by the reef.
On the easterly side of the small island is the passage.
The highest peak of the large island is about two thousand feet
above the level of the sea. The king and most of the high chiefs
reside on the small island, with many of their tribes, forming
quite a settlement. We called at the palace to pay our respects to
his majesty. He appeared very pleasant and kind to us, and, after
presenting us to the queen and two princesses present, set before
us such fruit as the island produces. The bananas that grow here are
certainly the most delicious we ever tasted, being very small, and
are called “sugar bananas.” The productions of this island are the
cocoanut, bread-fruit, banana, mummy apples, dittoes, plantains,
layees (a coarse species of banana), oranges, yams, and tarra. The
bread-fruit serves as their principal food. It is rendered very
palatable by being split open and baked, and tasted very good to us,
after having lived on hard bread, “duff,” and “salt horse” for nine
months. From the tree they manufacture all their culinary utensils
and canoes. The island abounds in game, wild pigeons and wild hogs
forming the principal part.
After partaking heartily of the fruit the king had set before us,
we left, promising to call and see him often during our stay, as he
gave us a cordial invitation to do so. We then proceeded to call
upon some of the chiefs. On rambling over the small island we found
numerous canals cut through in all directions, which at low tide
would be nothing but small streams, but at high tide of sufficient
depth to float the largest canoes. These canals, as well as some
of the roads, are walled up from fifteen to thirty feet high. They
are well built, and range from six to nine feet in thickness. We
noticed many large stones, which would weigh several tons, placed
in the wall some distance from the ground. There is something very
mysterious about these walls and canals. As the natives know nothing
about them, they say the Evil Spirit built them; and one of the most
intelligent chiefs on the island informed us that the oldest records
or traditions they have give no account of them whatever.
We also came in contact with what appeared to be the ruins of a
large building. It was surrounded by a stone wall, six or eight feet
high, on all four sides, with but one entrance, which was by stone
steps. We then came to a second wall, somewhat smaller, but similar
to the first; and, on ascending a few more steps, came to a level
place paved with large flat stones. In the centre were two square
deep pits, from eighteen to twenty feet deep, walled up with stone.
The natives know nothing concerning this pile of ruins, and only
answer your questions with the English word “Devil.” We think there
is no doubt but that this island has once been the stronghold of a
band of pirates, as every thing about it would seem to indicate. The
admirable situation, beautiful and snug harbor, with but a small
entrance, in which a vessel might easily be completely shut out from
view at sea; the mild and salubrious climate—all these combined would
render it a desirable rendezvous. This supposition is not improbable,
as it is well known that the Pacific, years ago, was infested by
herds of Chinese and Malay pirates, and these very natives bear a
strong resemblance to the Malays.
About twenty-five or thirty years ago the island was governed by a
king, who, from the accounts given by the chiefs, must have been a
perfect tyrant; and during his reign two or three ships were taken
and plundered, and all hands massacred. This tyranny had the effect
of creating a rebellion, which was headed by Tocasaw, the present
king. After a severe struggle the rebels came off victorious, and
Tocasaw was crowned “King George.” He is very mild in his rule, and
appears to seek the welfare of his subjects, who love him much.
They are under complete subjection, however, and whenever in the
presence of the king or chiefs, whether in the roads or houses, they
immediately stoop low, and remain in this posture until he passes or
bids them go about their business. The chiefs pay the same homage to
the king as the natives. Even his own children crouch down in his
presence, and bend their heads like so many whipped spaniels.
The queen is a small, shriveled-up old lady, and looks as though
a good strong norwester would blow her away. She is a very greedy
creature, and just as vicious withal, and is thoroughly detested by
those who are so situated that they can speak their mind freely,
without fear or favor.
They have six children; the eldest son, Canker, as we have already
remarked, is next in rank to the king. He is about twenty-six years
of age, and is reported to be a perfect villain, yet is very kind to
the natives under him. He is a shrewd fellow to trade, and is always
begging from the sailors. The second son, Aleck, is a young man about
nineteen, and is a remarkably intelligent native. He is universally
beloved by all, both chiefs and natives. He speaks better English
than any native on the island, and appears to have a strong desire
to know “all ’bout ’Merick.” Although so young, he is the father of
three fine children, two noble boys and a girl; and his wife is a
very kind, good-natured creature. He resides on the north side of the
island, and has a beautiful place. The other children of the king are
young, two daughters and two sons. Even these children command the
same respect from the common natives as the chiefs, yet they play
with them in common.
The first, or war-chief; is Sekane, who is the king’s half-brother.
He also is a very intelligent native, very active, and is considered
the king’s prime minister and counselor. Next comes Cæsar, who is
also half-brother to the king—a large, noble-looking native. He is
the grand executioner, and when any poor native has violated a law,
the punishment of which is death, he officiates. There are two or
three other high chiefs, possessed of no remarkable traits.
The natives are rather diminutive in stature, but active when
occasion requires. They live in great simplicity. The females are
remarkably good-looking; but, owing to their practice of _squatting_
to their work, and remaining in that posture most of the time, are
very awkward in walking. Their ears are bored when quite young, and
the hole is made larger by inserting in it a roll of leaves, which
causes it to enlarge as they advance in years. They generally have
them fitted with a bunch of flowers, of which they are passionately
fond. Many of them have their noses pierced, and flowers inserted
therein. They are generally employed making _tappas_, or, as they
call them in English, “Strong’s Island trowsers,” for the chiefs
to whom they belong. Tappa is manufactured from the fibres of the
banana-tree, colored with different barks to suit their taste, and
woven, by means of a small but ingenious loom, into bands of four
or five feet in length, and eight or ten inches in width, with the
different colors very ingeniously and beautifully intermixed. The
body and principal part of the tappa is black, and comprises all
the dress worn by the men or women, from the king down. Sometimes,
however, the king and chiefs indulge in the luxury of a calico shirt;
but the “court dress,” the red woolen shirt, is only worn on _great_
occasions. The females, also, will sometimes sport a _gingham shirt_,
if they are lucky enough to be presented with one by the chief to
whom they belong. Their _crinoline_, however, is not very extensive.
The men are employed cutting wood for their respective chiefs,
building houses, making canoes, gathering fruit, etc. Their food
consists principally of fish, bread-fruit, fayees, cocoanuts, and
other fruit. The fish are generally eaten raw, and smell rather
_high_ before they use them.
[Illustration: STRONG’S ISLAND HOUSES.]
Their houses are built of bamboo, thatched with cocoanut leaves. The
king’s house is very large, being fifty or sixty feet high, and about
forty feet square. Some of the chiefs have also very large, roomy
houses. The common ones for the natives are from thirty to forty
feet high, and about twenty feet square. They are kept very neat. In
the centre of the house is a square stone fireplace. The king and
chiefs have large cook-houses, where all the cooking of the different
tribes is done, and each family is served once a day. Each chief has
from fifty to two hundred natives under him, including men, women,
and children.
No one of the natives is allowed more than one wife, and when the
marriage ceremony is performed (which is done by the king for the
chiefs, and by the chiefs for the common natives), the girl is “given
away” by the one who officiates, and is then _tabooed_. The penalty
of breaking this taboo is death; therefore there is not much fear but
that she will remain faithful to her husband.
Each chief is allowed a certain portion of land, which is cultivated
by the natives under him. The produce is taken to the king, who
retains a portion for himself and ships, if any are in the harbor,
and the remaining portion is distributed to the chiefs for their
tribes. Their sports consist of songs, dances, and feasts. They do
not appear to be a very warlike people, as they have no weapons of
any account, and but four or five war-canoes. These are about sixty
feet long and three wide. They are supplied with large outriggers
to prevent their capsizing, and will carry from sixty to seventy
natives. They are built very true and sharp, the bow and stern
considerably elevated, and are fancifully decorated with shells and
other ornaments. The smaller canoes are generally bread-fruit-tree
logs shaped properly, and burned and dug out. They build them of all
sizes, from those that will carry but a single person to larger ones
that will carry twenty. It is indeed surprising to see with what
dexterity they manage them.
[Illustration: STRONG’S ISLAND CANOE.]
On this island is a root, which grows wild, called “carva.” They
pound this root, extract the juice by squeezing it in their hands
into cocoanut-shells, and then drink it. By taking a sufficient
quantity, it operates very similarly to opium, causing a sleepy
intoxication. It tastes very much like the extract of sarsaparilla
root. This is a great article with them, and, on calling from house
to house, you are first presented with a shell of carva. There are
those on the island who have used it so much that they resemble in
appearance the worst class of opium-eaters.
There is a tree here which is a great curiosity, being a species of
the banyan-tree of India. Its branches, bending to the ground and
taking root, make beautiful shady groves, and pleasant retreats from
the sultriness of the scorching sun.
In the matter of religion the natives have a singular belief. Their
deity, whom they call “Blueskin,” was thus described to us by Aleck:
“All the same white gal, only he got wing all the same pigeon,”
which is as near a description of an angel as we could have given
him. They say, “If man be good, he go there,” pointing to the sky;
“s’pose he no good, he stop here,” pointing to the earth. It is
certainly very singular where or from whence they received these
ideas; nevertheless, they sincerely believe them. They have no
regular places of worship, neither have they any prescribed form.
Some years since a famine visited the island, and swept off many of
the inhabitants. According to their traditions, a great quantity of
eels, which had never before been seen by them, suddenly made their
appearance, and prevented them from entirely perishing with hunger.
They have now great veneration for these eels, and they are tabooed,
as they believe Blueskin sent them; and, although the waters abound
with them, they will neither harm them nor suffer them to be harmed,
if in their power to prevent it.
They also believe in evil spirits. Once per year, or oftener, if
any thing remarkable transpires, the high-priest is followed by
his train of natives, carefully and plentifully oiled with cocoanut
oil, wreathed with flowers, and each one carrying fruit of some
description to appease the angry spirit, while the priest blows away
upon a large conch-shell, making a most hideous noise, to which is
added a continual wail by his train, which sounds truly mournful.
They go along the beach, and to each chief’s house, taking what has
been collected as an offering to Blueskin, generally consisting of
pure white tappas and the general productions of the island. These
articles are deposited by the priest in a house, tabooed to all but
himself, on the mountain, and are left there for Blueskin to take
whenever he chooses. The priest only enters this place once a year,
or when the island appears to be threatened with some dire calamity.
At such times he goes in and has a _talk_ with Blueskin.
On the death of any person, all the friends and relatives meet at
the house of the deceased, where they join in singing, wailing,
screeching, and weeping for about twenty-four hours, after which the
body is buried with much solemnity, with the head to the west. We
inquired the reason of this, and were answered, “Very good; ’nother
day’s sun he come all right.” The articles most highly prized by the
deceased while living are always buried with them. A small fence is
erected around the tomb of a native, and the friends every morning
carry fruits and flowers, and place them on the grave, for they
believe the spirits of the dead linger for a time upon the earth
before departing for the skies. If the deceased is a chief or a
member of the royal family, a house is erected over the grave, and
all the chiefs on the island remove to the place, build small houses,
and remain there for three months, the usual term of mourning, during
which time they present offerings very bountifully, and with a
great deal of state. After the ceremony of offering the fruit every
morning, the nearest related chief makes a feast, and all the chiefs
gather and eat, and drink carva. The females are excluded from these
and all other public feasts. The women belonging to the departed
chief have their heads shaved, and present a most comical appearance;
also all the relatives cut their hair short.
One Saturday evening a native from the island of Rotumah, called
Rotumah Tom, came on board with a large number of fine pigeons for
our Sunday dinner, which we found very fat, and fine eating. We
received a present of a mess of flying-fish also, on Sunday morning,
from the king, which were caught the previous night. He is very
kind to us, sending bread-fruit, smoking hot, every meal, for all
hands, and other food which the island produces. A favorite dish with
them is “poey,” and is prepared as follows: They bake a quantity of
tarra (which is something like our potato), and then pound it on a
large flat stone, mix in some roasted bananas, and, after working it
sufficiently, grate up the meat of old cocoanuts, and, inclosing the
gratings in leaves, by squeezing extract the white milky substance,
and cover the poey in such a manner as to resemble frosting. Some
of the poey is made from the banana and bread-fruit, and is truly
excellent. After it is prepared it is placed on large banana leaves,
and is then ready for consumption.
We were fortunate in being at the island at this time, as Monday,
December 16th, was the day for the annual visit of the high-priest
of Blueskin, with his train, and we had an opportunity of witnessing
the whole affair. The occasion was one of great excitement among
the natives, they looking upon the proceedings with a great deal
of solemnity and awe. Our crew were all ashore, and appeared to be
highly amused, nearly all going to the opposite side of the small
island from the harbor to meet “Blueskin” and his train as they
arrived from the large island. When we expressed to some of them
our intention of joining the procession, they exclaimed, almost
horror-stricken, “What for? ’spose you do all the same, Blueskin he
strike; kill ’em very quick!” Nevertheless, some ten or twelve of
our men did join the procession, and “howled” in the most scientific
manner possible, to assist in driving the evil spirits from the
island, without interruption from Blueskin. Yet we imagine the
high-priest thought if there were any greater “evil spirits” than
some of the “Emily Morgan’s” men, it was high time they were driven
off. After making the tour of the island, and consigning every thing
evil to the spirits of the deep, the priest proceeded to the house
of young Aleck, and, after many ceremonies, gave him a new name,
“Zegrah,” which is considered a great honor, and raises his rank a
peg or two.
Our Pitt’s Island native, Friday, could hardly suppress his
astonishment and laughter during the whole proceeding, and, on our
asking him his opinion of the show, exclaimed, “What for all the
same? All the same Kanaka pool!” We proceeded to the house of Cæsar,
where a feast was to be held after the ceremonies at Zegrah’s, as
we will now call him. We had received an invitation the day before,
so that we felt ourselves “perfectly at home” among the “nobility.”
On arriving, we found his large cook-house filled with natives, who
were waiting for the ceremonies to commence. Cæsar was seated on a
mat in one corner, with some of his petty chiefs about him. He very
kindly offered us seats at his right on the mat, and we accordingly
“squatted.” He asked us, “You been see Blueskin?” and on our replying
in the affirmative, he wished to know how we liked him. We gave him
our opinion in as few words as possible, and expressed ourselves as
being highly pleased with the performances. He laughed heartily,
and appeared to treat the whole thing as a good joke—an excellent
humbug. He now clapped his hands twice, and, speaking in his native
language, the petty chiefs passed the leaves of different articles
to him, and at the same time others helped the natives. We ate
heartily of poey, baked bananas, bread-fruit, sugar-cane (which we
had forgotten to mention grows here in great abundance), cocoanuts,
fish (which were baked for our company, as they know white men will
not eat them raw), with large shells of carva to wash it down. After
these courses had disappeared, the dessert made its appearance in the
shape of an animal of some kind, piping hot, which had been baked
whole. We supposed it to be a wild hog, and were about to partake,
when, curiosity getting the better of our appetites, we inquired if
it was “hog.” Cæsar replied, “No, dog;” at the same time urging us
to help ourselves, and saying “very good.” We did not doubt it; but,
suddenly recollecting that we had eaten very heartily, concluded that
we wouldn’t “indulge,” and excused ourselves by saying we were full,
and could eat no more. He seemed loth to let us off in this manner,
but, finding it no use to urge us, gave it up. It was evident he was
not pleased in our refusing to partake of his favorite dish, but we
could not go “dog.” After he finished his “dessert” of baked dog,
he sent several choice parcels to his wife and daughters, and women
belonging to his tribe, and after washing, which they always do at
the close of a meal, we retired to his house, and enjoyed a quiet
smoke, spinning yarns, singing songs, etc., which appeared to greatly
amuse Cæsar, and then stretching ourselves upon the large cool mats,
enjoyed a refreshing sleep.
The next day we called upon Zegrah, and, after talking with him some
little time, he urged us to take up our quarters with him as long
as the ship remained; said he had a nice, comfortable house, which
he would taboo to the natives, and give us, and we should have
every thing at our command. When we wished to go aboard the ship a
large canoe was at our service, with natives to paddle. Of course we
thanked him for his kindness, and accepted his generous proposals. We
accordingly went into our “hotel,” and arranged our beds, etc., which
consisted merely of mats spread upon the bamboo floor, with pillows
which we had brought from the ship, and soon found ourselves in
comfortable, pleasant quarters, but a short distance from the beach,
with a fine sea-breeze, and the never-ceasing roar of the breakers
sounding in our ears, as the huge rollers come combing, dashing,
breaking along over the rocks. It was, indeed, to the lover of nature
a magnificent scene.
On going _home_ the first evening we thought best to take a stroll
across the island, then take the sand-beach to the house. On arriving
at the beach, behold! it was high tide, and we must either climb
stone walls or take the water, which was some three feet in depth. We
concluded to wade it, and prepared ourselves accordingly by assuming
Strong’s Island costume, and then “pitched in.” Occasionally a roller
would come booming along, dashing over and almost taking our feet
from under us. It was just dark, and as we were plodding along,
consoling ourselves with the thoughts of a good night’s rest after we
reached our “hotel,” we suddenly perceived a large shark dart between
us toward the wall, turn himself round very easily, and then swim
away. We made all the noise possible to frighten him, and then ensued
some of the tallest “walking in the water” that we had ever seen. We
could only go ahead. There were high stone walls along shore, water
ahead, water behind, and water to our right; so we e’en made the best
of it, and “put” as fast as our legs would carry us through three
feet depth of water. We were fortunate enough to escape with whole
limbs, and arrived safely at our stopping-place, congratulating
ourselves upon our escape from “John Shark.” Friend Zegrah had
prepared for us a quantity of baked bananas, roasted fish, etc., and,
setting them before us, with plenty of fruit, we had a very sociable
and jovial time. His wife was present, and seemed to enter into the
spirit of the evening with a hearty good-will. Zegrah himself, as we
before remarked, was young and full of fun, but, living on a remote
part of the island, was very lonesome, and made us promise to spend
all the time we possibly could with him, and he would pilot us over
the island.
The next morning, Wednesday, December 18th, “Sail ho!” was the cry.
On looking, we saw a ship off the passage, and presently a boat made
its appearance and came ashore. The ship proved to be the “Planter,”
of Nantucket, full, bound home. Captain H. came ashore in the boat,
and brought his clothing and some goods. He informed the king that he
wished to reside on the island for a short time, as he did not like
to go to America at present. We learned the following particulars in
regard to Captain H. and the “Planter:” While the ship was cruising
off Pitt’s Island, a barrel of bad meat had been opened, which
created considerable dissatisfaction among the crew, and they finally
threw it overboard, and said they would do no more work until they
had good meat. The captain told them they should have no more until
the regular time, as they had no right to throw the other overboard.
Upon this, the men refused duty. The captain ordered them to work,
but they firmly refused. He then ordered them to come aft, and this
they refused to do, when he ordered the mate to go forward and bring
the ringleader aft. Upon this, one of the crew threw out a threat
that, if he came forward and laid his hands upon any of them, they
would break his head, or something to that effect. The captain,
thinking it time something decisive was done, ordered some muskets
to be loaded and brought on deck. They were accordingly brought,
and he then told the men distinctly and firmly that unless they went
below he would fire. Some one of them replied, “Fire, and be hanged
to you!” After waiting a sufficient time, and repeating his orders,
he fired, and one of the mutineers instantly fell dead, the ball
taking effect in his brain. The men instantly rushed pell-mell for
the forecastle. The mate now came forward, and ordered them up one by
one, and, being perfectly _tamed_, they came and submitted to being
placed in irons and stationed aft. The body, after a suitable time,
was buried. Upon the men promising to resume their duties and behave
themselves if liberated, the irons were taken off, and they were
allowed to go forward.
These events transpired but a few weeks before the ship visited
Strong’s Island, and the captain, thinking it better to wait a year
or two before returning home, wished to remain on this island during
the interim. The king, after some conversation with our captain,
gave his consent, and, accordingly, Captain H. had his property
transferred from the ship to the shore, leaving her in command of the
mate. The ship did not anchor, but the things were brought ashore in
boats.
When the last boat was about leaving the shore, “Smut,” _alias_ the
blacksmith, and our friend Mackey, stepped in, and, accordingly,
_stepped out_, as that was the last we heard of them. We were sorry
to lose Mackey, as in doing so we lost one great source of amusement;
but he was gone, and, before it was known on board that they had
deserted, the “Planter” was off, with square yards and a stiff breeze.
Some of the crew one day started for the shore in a small canoe, and
before they had got half way it capsized, slightly spilling them out.
They had a fine ducking, as well as a long swim for it. The same
day, we, in company with another shipmate, undertook to navigate one
of the canals in a small canoe, but, not exactly understanding the
crooks and turns of the “ditch,” had the misfortune to be capsized in
the mud, and received a good soaking before we “made the land.”
Hardly a day had passed since our arrival in port that we had not
turned our eyes large-islandward, and longed for a stroll among its
mountains, valleys, and groves, but had delayed the intended visit
from the want of a suitable guide. On Friday, the 20th, however, that
want was supplied by Zegrah offering his services for the occasion.
We accepted them with pleasure, and, in company with two other
shipmates, crossed the channel in a canoe. In low tide this channel
is fordable. We found the houses were not so large nor comfortable
as on the small island, nor so neatly kept, and are more scattering.
We encountered many ruins and walls here also, but no canals. After
rambling over hills and rocks, through woods and swamps, and finding
ourselves completely covered with mud, we made our way back, having
encountered nothing worthy of note, and our bright anticipations,
which we had long cherished, just about as near realized as thousands
of others that we have had. But we must learn wisdom by experience,
we thought, and thus consoled ourselves.
Our man Friday we find a capital fellow to stroll on shore with, he
having a perfect fund of wit and drollery to draw upon at pleasure.
Wherever we went we introduced him as the brother to the king of his
island, and he was accordingly treated with the greatest respect,
which amused him infinitely. We found him very useful in our rambles
also; for, when we were thirsty, he was always ready to ascend a
cocoanut-tree, and pass down a sufficient quantity of the rich nuts
to satisfy the thirst of all. One day, while he was thus engaged, a
native came, running and hallooing, to see who was taking cocoanuts
that were tabooed. Of course, the boys all ran; and one of the
crowd was in such haste to get over a stone wall with an armful of
cocoanuts, that he lost his balance, and wall and all fell, plunging
him almost out of sight in a mud bath. Friday, however, sat in the
tree, perfectly at his ease, laughing heartily at the mishap. The
native sang out to him, “Come down; no good; king taboo!” Friday
coolly replied, “No saba” (no understand), and again commenced
throwing down the nuts, taking particular pains, however, to hit the
poor native as often as possible, who would cry out, “Wa-a-a, wa-a,
what for all the same? No good.” He finally beat a retreat, leaving
Friday master of the field, and the boys laughing at the manner in
which he had driven the “Kanaka pool,” as he termed him, from the
ground. When he came down he found himself in a quandary. He had
got more cocoanuts than he could conveniently carry, and leave them
he would not; and, as the boys were all supplied, he was in a fix.
At last, however, his eye brightened, and exclaiming, “I fix ’em,”
he stripped off his pants, reducing himself to the costume of the
“king’s court,” and filling each leg with cocoanuts, marched along.
We took the “spoil” to our quarters at the “hotel,” and deposited
them there. We would here state, that when the king or chiefs wish
to reserve any particular place or house from the intrusion of the
natives, they place the _taboo_ upon it; and, as the penalty of
breaking this is death, they consider it sacrilege almost to disobey,
or think of molesting the place. It was thus that our quarters were
rendered perfectly safe from intrusion. Zegrah tabooed the house,
and no native dare enter it without our permission. The natives are
very kind and hospitable to those who treat them well, but inclined
to pilfer if a good opportunity presents itself. Most of them are
notorious beggars, and are constantly teasing for a “small piece
’bacca.”
On Sunday morning, December 22d, we found that our third mate and
another man had deserted in the course of the night, taking with
them all their clothing. All hands rejoiced that the third mate, the
great bully, had left, and the captain shipped two men instead of the
deserters. These men had been on the island some months.
But we had been some time in port; all our wood, water, and fresh
provisions were on board, and we were ready for sea. Accordingly, at
five A.M. on Monday, December 23d, we weighed anchor, and left this
beautiful harbor, some with sorrowful hearts, and others rejoicing
that they were once more rolling on “the deep blue sea.” But we did
not immediately leave the island. The captain had a little more
business to transact, and we “stood off and on” the harbor for two
days, close in sight of the land.
The next day after weighing anchor, the bark “Mary Frazier,” of New
Bedford, Captain Haggerty, entered the harbor, so that our island
friends were not left alone. She was from the Arctic Ocean, where
she had taken thirteen hundred barrels whale oil in one season. We
ascertained by her that our two deserters had escaped from the island
in the bark “George Champlin,” Captain Swain, which vessel had been
lying in the lee harbor. In the place of our third mate who had
deserted, and his office become vacant thereby, the captain placed
Mr. Smith, whom we took from the ship “Marcus,” as the reader will
recollect, in exchange for the boat-steerer, who left us on account
of his ill health. All hands were much pleased with the exchange,
as Mr. S. was a noble man, and a _sailor_ every inch of him. But
scarcely had we left port, and on the next day succeeding that in
which we learned of the escape of his predecessor, before he was
taken violently ill with a burning pain in his stomach. For several
days he continued growing worse, becoming deranged, and continually
vomiting, until Tuesday, December 31st, the last day of the year, he
departed this life. He died struggling very hard.
This sudden death cast a gloom over the whole ship’s company. But a
few days since, and he was the perfect embodiment of health. Little
did he or any of his shipmates imagine that one brief week would find
him clasped in the cold arms of death. Little did poor Smith imagine
that he would so soon be called upon to obey the dread summons. Mr.
S. had followed the sea from his youth, and had arrived at the age of
about thirty, without ever experiencing sickness of any kind. He was
a most excellent and thorough seamen, understood well his business,
was peaceable and friendly to all, and while on board had conducted
himself in such a manner as to take a firm hold upon the affections
of his shipmates. He had secured the confidence and esteem of the
captain and officers, as well as the respect and good-will of the
men. He was prompt in the discharge of his duties, always performing
them in a cheerful manner. But he has gone from our midst. Suddenly
he was taken from us to that bourne from whence no traveler returns.
Little does the landsman know the sweet comforts the dying sailor
is deprived of. Separated from the home of his heart by thousands
of miles, tossed to and fro on a sick couch, with no kind father
to watch over and soothe the anguish of his pain; no loving mother
comforting and praying for the salvation of the dear son; no dear
brothers or sisters to sympathize and cheer the lonely hours with
their presence—none of these to smooth the dying sailor’s lonely
pillow, alleviate his wants, assuage his grief, and comfort his mind
by divine teachings; none of their cheerful countenances to light the
dark valley of the shadow of death. Yet every thing was done that was
possible to do for Mr. S. to alleviate his sufferings and comfort
his mind. But all was of no avail. There is little doubt but he was
poisoned at Strong’s Island. But his bodily sufferings are o’er, and
instead of departing upon the soft, downy bed, with his dear ones
hovering over him, he yielded his spirit to the God who gave it from
his rolling couch, and the last sounds that reached his ears were the
moanings of the wind, and the hoarse murmur of the waves, impatient,
as it were, to receive their victim.
At four P.M. we shortened sail, hauled aback the head yards, hoisted
the ensign half-mast, and called all hands to “bury the dead.” The
gangway board was removed, the body sewed up in a sheet, and weights
attached to the feet, and then laid upon a plank. The services
commenced by the captain reading a portion of the Holy Scriptures,
then making some excellent and touching remarks, followed by a
prayer. He then read the burial service, and when he said “we now
commit this body to the deep,” the end of the plank was raised, and
the body of poor Smith was consigned to its watery grave, there
to rest till the morn of the resurrection, when the last trump
shall sound, and the sea shall give up its dead. The body rapidly
disappeared beneath the blue wave, and, on glancing around, the tear
was seen in the eyes of all those hardy men—those men who had faced
death without a blanched cheek or a fainting heart—as they took
their last look at the body of their late shipmate. On the land, in
the city or town, a death is hardly noticed, and is not felt; but
on board a ship, with but a small circle, as in our case, of about
thirty, living together as one family, and shut out from the world,
as it were, one snatched from our small company is seriously missed,
and death serves to bind the remaining still closer together, as the
loss just experienced shows us all the uncertainty of human life, and
no one knows who will next be called upon to pay the last sad debt of
nature. May we all be prepared, that, should ALMIGHTY GOD see fit at
any time to remove us from this world of sin and sorrow, we can go
with willing hearts—that we may “render up our account with joy, and
not with grief.”