wished-for day of the opening of the Exhibition at the rooms of the
Royal Institution. At one o'clock I went, the doors were just opened,
and in a few minutes the rooms were crowded. Sir Walter Scott was
present; he came towards me, shook my hand cordially, and pointing to
Landseer's picture said: "Many such scenes, Mr. Audubon, have I
witnessed in my younger days." We talked much of all about us, and I
would gladly have joined him in a glass of wine, but my foolish habits
prevented me, and after inquiring of his daughter's health, I left
him, and shortly afterwards the rooms; for I had a great appetite, and
although there were tables loaded with delicacies, and I saw the
ladies particularly eating freely, I must say to my shame _I_ dared
not lay my fingers on a single thing. In the evening I went to the
theatre where I was much amused by "The Comedy of Errors," and
afterwards "The Green Room." I admire Miss Neville's singing very
much; and her manners also; there is none of the actress about her,
but much of the lady.
_Tuesday, 20th._ A week has passed without writing here because I have
done nothing else but write--many letters for Captain Hall, and at his
request a paper to be read at the Natural History Society. I pitched
on the "Habits of the Wild Pigeon." I began on Wednesday, and it took
me until half-past three of the morning, and after a few hours' sleep
I rose to correct it, which was needed, I can assure thee. Were it not
for the _facts_ it contains, I would not give a cent for it, nor
anybody else, I dare say. I positively brought myself so much among
the Pigeons and in the woods of America that my ears were as if really
filled with the noise of their wings; I was tired and my eyes ached. I
dined at a Mr. Tytler's and met among the guests Mr. Cruden, brother
of the compiler of the famous concordance. On Sunday I made for the
seashore, and walked eight miles; the weather was extremely cold, my
ears and nose I thought would drop off, yet I went on. Monday Captain
Hall called to speak to me about my paper on Pigeons; he complained
that I expressed the belief that Pigeons were possessed of affection
and tenderest love, and that this raised the brute species to a level
with man. O man! misled, self-conceited being, when wilt thou keep
within the sphere of humility that, with all thy vices and wickedness
about thee, should be thine. At the exhibition rooms I put up my
drawing of the Wild Pigeons and Captain Hall read my paper. I was
struck with the silence and attention of the audience. The president
invited me to supper with him, but I was too excited, so excused
myself.
_February 21._ I wrote again nearly all day, and in the evening went
to the theatre to see "The School for Grown Children."
_February 23._ Young Hutchinson came about the middle of the day, and
I proposed we should have an early dinner and a long walk after for
the sake of exercise, that I now find much needed. We proceeded
towards the village of Portobello, distant three miles, the weather
delightful, the shore dotted with gentlemen on horseback galloping
over the sand in all directions. The sea calm and smooth, had many
fishing-boats. The village is a summer resort, built handsomely of
white stone, and all was quietness. From here we proceeded across
country to Duddingston, about a mile and a half, to see the skaters on
the _lake_, a mere duck puddle; but the ice was too thin, and no
skaters were there. We gradually ascended the hill called Arthur's
Seat, and all of a sudden came in full view of the fair city. We
entered in the Old Town and reached my lodgings by the North Bridge. I
was quite tired, and yet I had not walked more than ten miles. I
thought this strange, and wondered if it could be the same body that
travelled over one hundred and sixty-five miles in four days without a
shade of fatigue. The cities do not tempt me to walk, and so I lose
the habit.
_February 24._ To the Wernerian Society at two o'clock, my drawing of
the Mocking-Bird with me. The room was completely filled, and a paper
on the rhubarb of commerce was read; it was short, and then Professor
Jameson called my name. I rose, and read as distinctly as I could my
paper on Rattlesnakes, a job of three quarters of an hour. Having
finished I was cheered by all, and the thanks of the Assembly
unanimously voted. My cheeks burned, and after a few questions had
been put me by the president and some of the gentlemen present, I
handed my manuscript to Professor Jameson, and was glad to be gone.
Young Murray, the son of the London publisher, accompanied me to the
Scottish Society Exhibition, but I soon left him as so many eyes were
directed to me that I was miserable.
_February 27._ It blew and rained tremendously, and this morning I
parted from Captain Hall, who goes to London. His leaving Edinburgh
affects me considerably; he is a kind, substantial friend, and when we
finally shook hands, I doubt not he knew the feeling in my heart. This
evening was spent at Mr. Joseph's the sculptor. There were a number of
guests, and music and dancing was proposed. My fame as a dancer
produced, I am sure, false expectations; nevertheless I found myself
on the floor with Mrs. Joseph, a lively, agreeable little lady, much
my junior, and about my Lucy's age. After much dancing, during which
light refreshments were served, we sat down to supper at twelve
o'clock, and we did not leave till three.
_February 28._ I have been reading Captain Hall's "Voyages and
Travels," and going much about to rest my eyes and head; but these few
days of idleness have completely sickened me, and have given me what
is named the Blue Devils so effectually that the sooner I drive them
off the better.
_March 1._ Mr. Kidd,[115] the landscape artist, breakfasted with me,
and we talked painting a long time. I admired him for his talents at
so early a period of life, he being only nineteen. What would I have
been now if equally gifted by nature at that age? But, sad reflection,
I have been forced constantly to hammer and stammer as if in
opposition to God's will, and so therefore am nothing now but poor
Audubon. I asked him to come to me daily to eat, drink, and give me
the pleasure of his company and advice. I told him my wish was so
intense to improve in the delightful art of painting that I should
begin a new picture to-morrow, and took down my portfolio to look for
one of my drawings to copy in oil. He had never seen my work, and his
bright eyes gazed eagerly on what he saw with admiration.
_March 2._ Mr. Kidd breakfasted with me, and we painted the whole day.
_March 3._ I painted as constantly to-day, as it snowed and blew hard
outside my walls. I thought frequently that the devils must be at the
handles of AEolus' bellows, and turned the cold blasts into the Scotch
mists to freeze them into snow. It is full twenty years since I saw
the like before. I dined at Mr. Ritchie's, reaching his house safely
through more than two feet of snow.
_March 4._ The weather tolerably fair, but the snow lay deep. The
mails from all quarters were stopped, and the few people that moved
along the streets gave a fuller idea of winter in a northern clime
than anything I have seen for many years. Mr. Hays called for me, and
we went to breakfast with the Rev. Mr. Newbold, immediately across the
street. I was trundled into a sedan chair to church. I had never been
in a sedan chair before, and I like to try, as well as see, all things
on the face of this strange world of ours; but so long as I have two
legs and feet below them, never will I again enter one of these
machines, with their quick, short, up-and-down, swinging motion,
resembling the sensations felt during the great earthquake in
Kentucky. But Sydney Smith preached. Oh! what a soul there must be in
the body of that great man. What sweet yet energetic thoughts, what
goodness he must possess. It was a sermon _to me_. He made me smile,
and he made me think deeply. He pleased me at times by painting my
foibles with due care, and again I felt the color come to my cheeks as
he portrayed my sins. I left the church full of veneration not only
towards God, but towards the wonderful man who so beautifully
illustrates his noblest handiwork. After lunch Mr. Hays and I took a
walk towards Portobello, tumbling and pitching in the deep snow. I saw
Sky-Larks, poor things, caught in snares as easily--as men are
caught. For a wonder I have done no work to-day.
_March 5._ As a lad I had a great aversion to anything English or
Scotch, and I remember when travelling with my father to Rochefort in
January, 1800, I mentioned this to him, for to him, thank God, I
always told all my thoughts and expressed all my ideas. How well I
remember his reply: "Laforest, thy blood will cool in time, and thou
wilt be surprised to see how gradually prejudices are obliterated, and
friendships acquired, towards those that at one time we held in
contempt. Thou hast not been in England; I have, and it is a fine
country." What has since taken place? I have admired and esteemed many
English and Scotch, and therefore do I feel proud to tell thee that I
am a Fellow of the Royal Society of Edinburgh. My day has been rather
dull, though I painted assiduously. This evening I went to the Society
of Arts, where beautiful experiments were shown by the inventors
themselves; a steam coach moved with incomprehensible regularity. I am
undetermined whether to go to Glasgow on my way to Dublin, or proceed
overland to Newcastle, Liverpool, Oxford, Cambridge, and so on to
London, but I shall move soon.
_March 7._ This evening I was introduced to Sydney Smith, the famous
preacher of last Sunday, and his fair daughters, and heard them sing
most sweetly. I offered to show them some of my drawings and they
appointed Saturday at one o'clock. The wind is blowing as if intent to
destroy the fair city of Edinburgh.
_March 8._ The weather was dreadful last night and still continues so;
the snow is six feet deep in some parts of the great roads, and I was
told at the Post Office that horsemen sent with the mail to London had
been obliged to abandon their horses, and proceed on foot. Wrote a
letter to Sir Walter Scott requesting a letter of introduction, or
shall I say _endorsement_, and his servant brought me a gratifying
reply at eight of the evening. At one Dr. Spence came with Miss
Neville, the delightful singer at the theatre, her mother, and Miss
Hamilton. They sat with me some time, and I was glad to see near-by
the same Miss Neville whom I admire so much at the play. I found her
possessed of good sense and modesty, and like her much; her mother
asked me to spend the evening of next Saturday with them, and said her
daughter would sing for me with pleasure. Had a note from Sydney
Smith; the man should study economy; he would destroy more paper in a
day than Franklin in a week; but all great men are more or less
eccentric. Walter Scott writes a diminutive hand, very difficult to
read, Napoleon a large, scrawling one, still more difficult, and
Sydney Smith goes up-hill all the way with large strides.
_March 9._ My first work this day was to send as a present to Miss
Anne Scott a copy of my first number. Professor Wilson called and
promised to come again on Monday.
_March 10._ I visited Mr. James B. Fraser,[116] a great traveller in
Asia and Africa, and saw there a large collection of drawings and
views in water-colors of the scenery of these countries. The lecture
at the Wernerian Society was very interesting; it was on the uses of
cotton in Egypt, and the origin of the name in the English language. I
dined at Mr. Neill's; among the guests was a Mr. Blair, the
superintendent of the Botanical Gardens here; he has been in different
parts of America frequently. There were several other gentlemen
present interested in like subjects, and we talked of little else than
trees and exotic plants, birds and beasts; in fact it was a
naturalists' dinner, but a much better one than naturalists generally
have who study in the woods. I was obliged to leave early, as I had an
engagement at Miss Neville's. Tea was served, after which Miss Neville
rose, and said she would open the concert. I was glad to see her
simply but beautifully dressed in a plain white gown of fine muslin,
with naught but her fine auburn hair loose in large curls about her
neck, and a plain scarf of a light-rose color. She sang and played
most sweetly; the gentlemen present were all more or less musical, and
we had fine glees, duets, trios. The young lady scarcely left off
singing, for no sooner was a song finished than some one asked for
another; she immediately replied, "Oh, yes," and in a moment the room
was filled with melody. I thought she must be fatigued, and told her
so, but she replied: "Mr. Audubon, singing is like painting; it never
fatigues if one is fond of it, and I am." After a handsome supper we
had more singing, and it was past two o'clock when I rose, shook hands
with Miss Neville, bowed to the company, and made my exit.
_March 12._ I can scarcely believe that this day, there is in many
places six feet of snow, yet with all this no invitation is ever laid
aside, and last evening I went to dinner in a coach drawn by four
horses. At noon to-day I went with Mr. Lizars to the Assembly Rooms,
to see the fencing. About a thousand persons, all in full dress,
gathered in a few minutes, and a circle being formed, eight young men
came in, and went through the first principles of fencing; we had fine
martial music and a succession of fencing turns till two o'clock, when
the assault began between the two best scholars. Five hits were
required to win the prize--a fine sword--and it was presented to the
conqueror, a Mr. Webster. At half-past six I dined at Mr. Hamilton's,
where a numerous and agreeable party was assembled. At ten Miss
Neville and her mother came with still others. We had dancing and
singing, and here I am, quite wearied at half-past three; but I must
be up early to-morrow morning.
_March 13._ The little I slept had a bad effect on me, for I rose
cross of mind and temper. I took a long walk on the London road,
returned and reached Brae House, and breakfasted with the famous Mrs.
Grant,[117] an old lady very deaf, but very agreeable withal. Her son
and daughter and another lady formed our party. We talked of nothing
but America; Mrs. Grant is positively the only person I have met here
who knows anything true about my country. I promised to call again
soon. This evening I dined at Sir James Riddell's, and I do not know
when I have spent a more uncomfortable evening; the company were all
too high for me, though Sir James and his lady did all they could for
me. The _ton_ here surpassed that at the Earl of Morton's; _five
gentlemen_ waited on us while at table, and two of these put my cloak
about my shoulders, notwithstanding all I could say to the contrary.
Several of these men were quite as well dressed as their master. What
will that sweet lady, Mrs. Basil Hall think of a squatter's hut in
Mississippi in contrast with this? No matter! whatever may be lacking,
there is usually a hearty welcome. Oh! my America, how dearly I love
thy plain, simple manners.
_March 14._ I have been drawing all day, two Cat-birds and some
blackberries for the Countess of Morton, and would have finished it
had I not been disturbed by visitors. Mr. Hays came with his son; he
asked me if it would not be good policy for me to cut my hair and have
a fashionable coat made before I reached London. I laughed, and he
laughed, and my hair is yet as God made it.
_March 17._ I had long wished to visit Roslyn Castle and the weather
being beautiful I applied to Mrs. Dickie for a guide, and she sent her
son with me. We passed over the North Bridge and followed the turnpike
road, passing along the foot of the Pentland Hills, looking back
frequently to view Edinburgh under its cloud of smoke, until we had
passed a small eminence that completely hid it afterwards from our
sight. Not an object of interest lay in our way until we suddenly
turned southeast and entered the little village of Roslyn. I say
_little_, because not more than twenty houses are there, and these are
all small except one. It is high, however, so much so that from it we
looked down on the ruined castle, although the elevation of the castle
above the country around is very great. On inquiry, we were assured
that the chapel was the only remaining edifice worthy of attention. We
walked down to it and entered an enclosure, when before us stood the
remains of the once magnificent Chapel of Roslyn. What volumes of
thoughts rushed into my mind. I, who had read of the place years
before, who knew by tradition the horrors of the times subsequent to
the founding of the edifice, now confronted reality. I saw the marks
of sacrilegious outrage on objects silent themselves and which had
been raised in adoration to God. Strange that times which produced
such beautiful works of art should allow the thief and the murderer to
go almost unpunished. This Gothic chapel is a superb relic; each stone
is beautifully carved, and each differs from all the others. The ten
pillars and five arches are covered with the finest fret-work, and all
round are seen the pedestals that once supported the images that
Knox's party were wont to destroy without thought or reason. I went
down some mouldering steps into the Sacristy, but found only bare
walls, decaying very fast; yet here a curious plant was growing, of a
verdigris color. To reach the castle we went down and along a narrow
ridge, on each side of which the ground went abruptly to the bottom of
a narrow, steep valley, through which a small, petulant stream rushed
with great rapidity over a rocky bed. This guards three sides of the
promontory on which Roslyn Castle once was; for now only a few masses
of rubbish were to be seen, and a house of modern structure occupies
nearly the original site. In its day it must have been a powerful
structure, but now, were it existing, cannon could destroy it in a
few hours, if they were placed on the opposite hills. A large meadow
lay below us, covered with bleaching linen, and the place where we
stood was perfectly lonely, not even the reviving chirp of a single
bird could be heard, and my heart sank low while my mind was engaged
in recollections of the place. In silence we turned and left the
Castle and the little village, and returned by another route to busy
Edinburgh. The people were just coming out of church, and as I walked
along I felt a tap on my shoulder and heard good Mr. Neill say, "Where
are you going at the rate of six miles an hour?" and he took me home
to dine with him, after we had been to my lodgings, where I put my
feet in ice cold water for ten minutes, when I felt as fresh as ever.
[Illustration: FACSIMILE OF ENTRY IN JOURNAL]
_March 19, 1827._ This day my hair was sacrificed, and the will of God
usurped by the wishes of man. As the barber clipped my locks rapidly,
it reminded me of the horrible times of the French Revolution when the
same operation was performed upon all the victims murdered at the
guillotine; my heart sank low.
JOHN J. AUDUBON.[118]
Shortly after breakfast I received a note from Captain Hall, and
another from his brother, both filled with entreaties couched in
strong terms that I should _alter my hair_ before I went to London.
Good God! if Thy works are hated by man it must be with Thy
permission. I sent for a barber, and my hair was mowed off in a trice.
I knew I was acting weakly, but rather than render my good friend
miserable about it, I suffered the loss patiently.
_March 20._ I visited Mr. Hays at his office, and had the pleasure of
seeing all the curious ancient manuscripts, letters, mandates, Acts of
Parliament, etc., connected with the official events of Scotland with
England for upwards of three hundred years past. Large volumes are
written on parchment, by hand, and must have been works of immense
labor. The volumes containing the mere transfers of landed estates
filed within the last forty years amounted to almost three thousand,
and the parcels of ancient papers filled many rooms in bundles and in
bags of leather, covered with dust, and mouldering with age. The
learned antiquarian, Mr. Thompson, has been at great pains to put in
order all these valuable and curious documents. The edifice of the
Registry is immense, and the long, narrow passages proved a labyrinth
to me. Mr. Hays' allotted portion of curiosities consists of Heraldry,
and I saw the greatest display of coats of arms of all sorts,
emblazoned in richest style on sleek vellum and parchment.
_March 21._ Called on Miss D----, the fair American. To my surprise I
saw the prints she had received the evening before quite abused and
tumbled. This, however, was not my concern, and I regretted it only on
her account, that so little care should be taken of a book that in
fifty years will be sold at immense prices because of its rarity.[119]
The wind blew great guns all morning. Finding it would be some days
before my business would permit me to leave, I formed an agreement to
go to see the interior of the Castle, the regalia, and other
curiosities of the place to-morrow. I received a valuable letter of
introduction to the Secretary of the Home Department, Mr. Peel, from
the Lord Advocate of Scotland, given me at the particular request of
the Countess of Morton, a most charming lady; the Earl of Morton would
have written himself but for the low state of his health.
_March 22._ After lunch the Rev. Wm. Newbold and I proceeded to the
Castle; the wind blew furiously, and consequently no smoke interfered
with the objects I wished to see. We passed a place called the
"Mound," a thrown-up mass of earth connecting now the New with the Old
city of Edinburgh. We soon reached the gates of the Castle, and I
perceived plainly that I was looked upon as an officer from the
continent. Strange! three days ago I was taken for a priest, quick
transition caused only by the clipping of my locks. We crossed the
drawbridge and looked attentively at the deep and immense dried
ditches below, passed through the powerful double gates, all necessary
securities to such a place. We ascended continually until we reached
the parapets where the King stood during his visit, bowing, I am told,
to the gaping multitude below, his hat off, and proud enough, no
doubt, of his _high station_. My hat was also off, but under different
impulses; I was afraid that the wind would rob me of it suddenly. I
did not bow to the people, but I looked with reverence and admiration
on the beauties of nature and of art that surrounded me, with a
pleasure seldom felt before. The ocean was rugged with agitated waves
as far as the eye could reach eastwardly; not a vessel dared spread
its sails, so furious was the gale. The high mountains of wild
Scotland now and then faintly came to our view as the swift-moving
clouds passed, and suffered the sun to cast a momentary glance at
them. The coast of the Frith of Forth exhibited handsome villas, and
noblemen's seats, bringing at once before me the civilization of man,
and showing how weak and insignificant we all are. My eyes followed
the line of the horizon and stopped at a couple of small elevations,
that I knew to be the home of the Countess of Morton; then I turned to
the immense city below, where men looked like tiny dwarfs, and horses
smaller than sheep. To the east lay the Old Town, and now and then
came to my ears the music of a band as the squall for a moment abated.
I could have remained here a whole day, but my companion called, and I
followed him to the room where the regalia are kept. We each wrote
our names, paid our shilling, and the large padlock was opened by a
red-faced, bulky personage dressed in a fanciful scarlet cloth,
hanging about him like mouldering tapestry. A small oblong room, quite
dark, lay before us; it was soon lighted, however, by our conductor. A
high railing of iron, also of an oblong form, surrounded a table
covered with scarlet cloth, on which lay an immense sword and its
scabbard, two sceptres, a large, square, scarlet cushion ornamented
with golden tassels, and above all the crown of Scotland. All the due
explanations were cried out by our conductor, on whose face the
reflection of all the red articles was so powerfully displayed just
now that it looked like a large tomato, quite as glittering, but of a
very different flavor, I assure thee. We looked at all till I was
tired; not long did this take, for it had not one thousandth portion
of the beauties I had seen from the parapet. We left the Castle
intending to proceed to the stone quarries three miles distant, but
the wind was now so fierce, and the dust so troubled my eyes, that the
jaunt was put off till another day. I paid young Kidd three guineas
for his picture. Have just had some bread and butter and will go to
bed.