walked to the Exchange and met Dr. Hulme and several other friends,
who told me the Committee had voted unanimously to grant me a room
gratis to exhibit my drawings. I thanked them most heartily, as this
greatly lessens my expenses. More people than usual came to my rooms,
and I dined with Mr. Samuel Gregg, Senior, in Fountain Street. I
purchased some chalk, for which I paid more than four times as much as
in Philadelphia, England is so overdone with duty. I visited the
cotton mills of George Murray, Esq., where fifteen hundred souls are
employed. These mills consist of a square area of about eight acres,
built round with houses five, six, and seven stories high, having in
the centre of the square a large basin of water from the canal. Two
engines of forty and forty-five horse-power are kept going from 6 A.
M. to 8 P. M. daily. Mr. Murray himself conducted me everywhere. This
is the largest establishment owned by a single individual in
Manchester. Some others, belonging to companies, have as many as
twenty-five hundred hands, as poor, miserable, abject-looking
wretches as ever worked in the mines of Golconda. I was asked to spend
Monday night at Mr. Robert Hyde Gregg's place, Higher Ardwick, but I
have a ticket for a fine concert, and I so love music that it is
doubtful if I go. I took tea at Mr. Bartley's, and promised to write
on his behalf for the bones of an alligator of a good size. Now we
shall see if he gets one as quickly as did Dr. Harlan. I have
concluded to have a "Book of Subscriptions" open to receive the names
of all persons inclined to have the best illustrations of American
birds yet published; but alas! I am but a beginner in depicting the
beautiful works of God.
_Sunday, September 24._ I drew at my Pheasant till near eleven
o'clock, the weather warm and cloudy. Then I went to church and then
walked to Mr. Lloyd's. I left the city and proceeded two miles along
the turnpike, having only an imperfect view of the country; I
remarked, however, that the foliage was deeply colored with autumnal
tints. I reached the home of Mr. Brookes, and together we proceeded to
Mr. Lloyd's. This gentleman met us most kindly at the entrance, and we
went with him through his garden and hot-houses. The grounds are on a
declivity affording a far view of agreeable landscape, the gardens
most beautifully provided with all this wonderful island affords, and
the hot-houses contain abundant supplies of exotics, flower, fruit,
and shrub. The coffee-tree was bearing, the banana ripening; here were
juicy grapes from Spain and Italy, the sensitive plant shrunk at my
touch, and all was growth, blossom, and perfume. Art here helps Nature
to produce her richest treasures at will, and man in England, _if
rich_, may be called the God of the present day. Flower after flower
was plucked for me, and again I felt how perfectly an English
gentleman makes a stranger feel at home. We were joined by Mr. Thomas
Lloyd and Mr. Hindley as we moved towards the house, where we met Mrs.
Lloyd, two daughters, and a lady whose name escapes me. We were, of
course, surrounded by all that is rich, comfortable, pleasing to the
eye. Three men servants in livery trimmed with red on a white ground
moved quietly as Killdeers; everything was choice and abundant; the
conversation was general and lively; but we sat at the table _five
hours_, two after the ladies left us, and I grew restless; unless
drawing or out of doors I like not these long periods of repose. After
joining the ladies in the library, tea and coffee were served, and in
another hour we were in a coach _en route_ for Manchester.
_September 25._ Who should come to my room this morning about seven
whilst I was busily finishing the ground of my Pheasant but a handsome
Quaker, about thirty years of age and very neatly dressed, and thus he
spoke: "My friends are going out of Manchester before thee opens thy
exhibition rooms; can we see thy collection at nine o'clock?" I
answer, "Yes," and show him my drawing. Now were all the people here
Quakers, I might perhaps have some encouragement, but really, my Lucy,
my times are dull, heavy, long, painful, and my mind much harassed.
Five minutes before nine I was standing waiting for the Quaker and his
friends in the lobby of the Exchange, when two persons came in and
held the following discourse. "Pray, have you seen Mr. Audubon's
collections of birds? I am told it is well worth a shilling; suppose
we go now." "Pah! it is all a hoax; save your shilling for better use.
I _have_ seen them; the fellow ought to be drummed out of town." I
dared not raise my head lest I might be known, but depend upon it I
wished myself in America. The Quakers, however, restored my
equilibrium, for they all praised my drawings so much that I blushed
in spite of my old age. I took my drawing of the Pheasant to Mr.
Fanetti's (?) shop and had it put in a good light. I have made
arrangements to have my pictures in my new place in King Street, and
hope to do better next week. At four I took down two hundred and
forty drawings and packed them ready for removal. Now for the concert.
It was six o'clock and raining when I left for Fountain Street, where
already carriages had accumulated to a great number. I presented my
ticket, and was asked to write my name and residence, for this is not
exactly a public affair, but most select; so I am told. The room is
full of red, white, blue, and green turbans well fitted to the
handsome heads of the ladies. I went to one side where my ear and my
intellect might be well satisfied, and where I should not be noticed;
but it would not do, my long hair and unfashionable garments were
observed far more than was agreeable to me. But the music soon began,
and I forgot all else for the time; still between the various
performances I felt myself gazed at through lorgnettes, and was most
ill at ease. I have passed many uncomfortable evenings in company, and
this one may be added.
_Quarry Bank, September 26._ Whilst putting up my pictures in my newly
granted "apartment" I received a note from Mrs. Gregg inviting me here
for the night to meet Professor Smyth.[81] He is a tall, fine-looking
gentleman from Cambridge, full of knowledge, good taste, and kindness.
At dinner the Professor sat opposite the Woodsman, and America was
largely the topic of conversation. One evening spent with people such
as these is worth a hundred fashionable ones.
_Wednesday, September 27._ It is a strange atmosphere, warm, damp,
rainy, then fair again, all in less than two hours, which was the time
consumed by my early walk. On my return soon after eight I found four
of the ladies all drawing in the library; that in this country is
generally the sitting-room. At about ten we had breakfast, when we
talked much of duels, and of my friend Clay[82] and crazy
Randolph.[83] Much is unknown about our country, and yet all are
deeply interested in it. To-morrow I am off to Liverpool again; how
much I shall enjoy being once again with the charming Rathbones.
_Green Bank, near Liverpool, September 28._ At five this morning I
left Manchester and its smoke behind me; but I left there the labors
of about ten years of my life, fully one half of my collection. The
ride was a wet one, heavy rain falling continuously. I was warmly
welcomed by my good Liverpool friends, and though completely drenched
I felt it not, so glad was I to be in Liverpool again. My being here
is soon explained. I felt it best to see Dr. Traill and Mr. Roscoe,
and I dined with the latter; we talked of Manchester and our friends
there, and Mr. Roscoe thought well of the subscription book. From here
to Green Bank, where I am literally _at home_. Mr. Rathbone and Mr.
Roscoe will both aid me in the drawing up of a prospectus for my work.
_Green Bank, September 29._ It rained during the night and all the
early portion of the day. I breakfasted early, and at half-past nine
Mr. Rathbone and I drove in the gig to Mrs. Wm. S. Roscoe.[84] After a
little conversation we decided nothing could be done about the
prospectus without more definite knowledge of what the cost of
publication would be, and I was again referred to Dr. Traill. It
happened that here I met a Mr. Bohn, from London, not a publisher, but
a bookseller with an immense establishment, two hundred thousand
volumes as a regular stock. He advised me to proceed at once to
London, meet the principal naturalists of the day, and through them to
see the best engravers, colorists, printers, paper-merchants, etc.,
and thus form some idea of the cost; then to proceed to Paris,
Brussels, and possibly Berlin, with proper letters, and follow the
same course, thereby becoming able to judge of the advantages and
disadvantages attached to each country and _to determine myself when,
where, and how_ the work should be undertaken; to be during this time,
through the medium of friends, correspondence, and scientific
societies, announced to the world in some of the most widely read
periodical publications. "Then, Mr. Audubon, issue a prospectus, and
bring forth one number of your work, and I think you will succeed and
do well; but remember my observations on the _size_ of your book, and
be governed by this fact, that at present productions of taste are
purchased with delight, by persons who receive much company
particularly, and to have your book laid on the table as a pastime, or
an evening's entertainment, will be the principal use made of it, and
that if it needs so much room as to crowd out other things or encumber
the table, it will not be purchased by the set of people who now are
the very life of the trade. If large public institutions only and a
few noblemen purchase, instead of a thousand copies that may be sold
if small, not more than a hundred will find their way out of the
shops; the size must be suitable for the _English market_" (such was
his expression), "and ought not to exceed that of double Wilson." This
conversation took place in the presence of Dr. Traill, and both he and
Mr. Roscoe are convinced it is my only plan. Mr. Bohn told Dr. Traill,
as well as myself, that exhibiting my pictures would not do well; that
I might be in London a year before I should be known at all, but that
through the scientific periodicals I should be known over Europe in
the same time, when probably my first number would be published. He
strongly advised me to have the work printed and finished in Paris,
bring over to England say two hundred and fifty copies, to have it
bound and the titlepage printed, to be issued to the world of England
as an English publication. _This I will not do_; no work of mine
shall be other than true metal--if copper, copper, if gold, gold, but
not copper gilded. He admitted it would be a great undertaking, and
immensely laborious, but, he added, my drawings being so superior, I
might rest assured success would eventually be mine. This plan,
therefore, I will pursue with the same perseverance that since
twenty-five years has not wavered, and God's will be done. Having now
determined on this I will return to Manchester after a few days, visit
thy native place, gaze on the tombs of thy ancestors in Derby and
Leicester, and then enter London with a head humbly bent, but with a
heart intently determined to conquer. On returning to this abode of
peace, I was overtaken by a gentleman in a gig, unknown to me quite,
but who offered me a seat. I thanked him, accepted, and soon learned
he was a Mr. Dearman. He left me at Green Bank, and the evening was
truly delightful.
[Illustration: FROM A PENCIL SKETCH OF AUDUBON.
DRAWN BY HIMSELF FOR MRS. RATHBONE.
Now in the possession of Mr. Richard R. Rathbone, Glan-y-Menai,
Anglesey.]
_September 30, Woodcroft._ I am now at Mr. Richard Rathbone's; I did
not leave Green Bank this morning till nearly noon. The afternoon was
spent with Dr. Traill, with whom I dined; there was only his own
family, and I was much entertained by Dr. Traill and his son. A man of
such extensive and well digested knowledge as Dr. Traill cannot fail
to be agreeable. About eight his son drove me to Woodcroft, where were
three other guests, Quakers. The remainder of the evening was spent
with a beautiful microscope and a Diamond Beetle. Mr. Rathbone is
enthusiastic over my publishing plans, and I will proceed with firm
resolution to attempt the being an author. It is a terrible thing to
me; far better am I fitted to study and delineate in the forest, than
to arrange phrases with suitable grammatical skill. For the present
the public exhibiting of my work will be laid aside,--_I_ hope,
forever. I now intend going to Matlock, and from there to my Lucy's
native place, pass through Oxford, and so reach the great London, and
once more become the man of business. From there to France, but,
except to see my venerable mother, I shall not like France, I am sure,
as I _now_ do England; and I sincerely hope that this country may be
preferred to that, on financial grounds, for the production of my
work. Yet I love France most truly, and long to enter my old garden on
the Loire and with rapid steps reach my mother,--yes, my mother! the
only one I truly remember; and no son ever had a better, nor more
loving one. Let no one speak of her as my "stepmother." I was ever to
her as a son of her own flesh and blood, and she to me a true mother.
I have written to Louisiana to have forwarded from Bayou Sara six
segments of magnolia, yellow-poplar, beech, button-wood or sycamore,
sassafras, and oak, each about seven or eight inches in thickness of
the largest diameter that can be procured in the woods; to have each
segment carefully handled so as not to mar the bark, and to have each
name neatly painted on the face, with the height of the tree. These
are for the Liverpool Royal Institution.
_Green Bank, October 1._ Though the morning was bright it was near
four before I left my room and stepped into the fresh air, where I
could watch the timid birds fly from bush to bush before me. I turned
towards the Mersey reflecting the calm, serene skies, and listened to
the voice of the Quail, here so shy. I walked to the tide-beaten beach
and watched the Solan Goose in search of a retreat from the destroyer,
man. Suddenly a poorly dressed man, in somewhat of a sailor garb, and
carrying a large bag dashed past me; his movement suggested flight,
and instinctively I called, "Stop thief!" and made towards him in a
style that I am sure he had never seen used by the gentlemen of the
customs, who at this hour are doubtless usually drowsy. I was not
armed, but to my surprise he turned, fell at my feet, and with eyes
starting from his head with apprehension, begged for mercy, said the
bag only contained a few leaves of rotten tobacco, and it was the
first time he had ever smuggled. This, then, was a smuggler! I told
him to rise, and as he did so I perceived the boat that had landed
him. There were five men in it, but instead of landing and defending
their companion, they fled by rowing, like cowards, swiftly away. I
was astonished at such conduct from Englishmen. I told the abject
creature to bring his bag and open it; this he did. It was full of
excellent tobacco, but the poor wretch looked ill and half starved,
and I never saw a human being more terrified. He besought me to take
the tobacco and let him go, that it was of the rarest quality. I
assured him I never had smoked a single cigar, nor did I intend to,
and told him to take care he did not offend a second time. One of my
pockets was filled with the copper stuff the shop-keepers here give,
which they call penny. I gave them all to him, and told him to go. He
thanked me many times and disappeared through a thick hedge. The bag
must have contained fifty pounds of fine tobacco and two pistols,
which were not loaded, or so he said. I walked back to Green Bank
thinking of the smuggler. When I told Mr. Rathbone of my adventure he
said I had been extremely rash, and that I might have been shot dead
on the spot, as these men are often desperadoes. Well! I suppose I
might have thought of this, but dear me! one cannot always think over
every action carefully before committing it. On my way back I passed a
man digging potatoes; they were small and indifferently formed. The
season has been uncommonly dry and hot--so the English say; for my
part I am almost freezing most of the time, and I have a bad cough.
_October 2._ This morning Mrs. Rathbone asked me if I would draw her a
sketch of the Wild Turkey, about the size of my thumb-nail. I assured
her I would with pleasure, but that I could perhaps do better did I
know for what purpose. She colored slightly, and replied after a
moment that it was for something she desired to have made; so after I
had reached the Institution and finished my business there, I sat
opposite my twenty-three hours' picture and made the diminutive sketch
in less than twenty-three minutes. The evening was spent at Woodcroft,
and Mr. Rathbone sent his servant to drive me in the gig to Green
Bank, the night being cold and damp. The man was quite surprised I did
not make use of a great coat which had been placed at my disposal. How
little he knew how often I had lain down to rest, wet, hungry,
harassed and full of sorrow, with millions of mosquitoes buzzing round
me as I lay awake listening to the Chuckmill's Widow, the Horned Owl,
and the hoarse Bull-frog, impatiently awaiting the return of day to
enable me to hunt the forests and feast my eyes on their beautiful
inhabitants. I thought of all this and then moved the scene to the
hunter's cabin. Again wet, harassed, and hungry, I felt the sudden
warmth of the "Welcome, stranger!" saw the busy wife unhook dry
clothes from the side of the log hut, untie my moccasins, and take my
deerskin coat; I saw the athletic husband wipe my gun, clean the
locks, hang all over the bright fire; the eldest boy pile on more
wood, whilst my ears were greeted with the sound of the handmill
crushing the coffee, or the rye, for my evening drink; I saw the
little ones, roused by the stranger's arrival, peeping from under the
Buffalo robe, and then turn over on the Black Bear skin to resume
their slumbers. I _saw_ all this, and then arrived at Green Bank to
meet the same hearty welcome. The squatter is rough, true, and
hospitable; my friends here polished, true, and generous. Both give
what they have, freely, and he who during the tough storms of life can
be in such spots may well say he has known happiness.
[Illustration: AUDUBON IN INDIAN DRESS.
From a pencil sketch drawn by himself for Miss Rathbone, 1826. Now in
the possession of Mrs. Abraham Dixon (_nee_ Rathbone), London,
England.]
_Green Bank, October 3._ To-day I have visited the jail at Liverpool.
The situation is fine, it is near the mouth of the estuary that is
called the river Mersey, and from its walls is an extensive view of
the Irish Channel. The area owned by this institution is about eight
acres. It is built almost circular in form, having gardens in the
court in the centre, a court of sessions on one side and the main
entrance on the other. It contains, besides the usual cells, a chapel,
and yards in which the prisoners take exercise, kitchens, store-rooms,
etc., besides treadmills. The treadmills I consider infamous; conceive
a wild Squirrel in a round cage constantly moving, without
progressing. The labor is too severe, and the true motive of
correction destroyed, as there are no mental resources attached to
this laborious engine of shame. Why should not these criminals--if so
they are--be taught different trades, enabling them when again thrown
into the world to earn their living honestly? It would be more
profitable to the government, and the principle would be more
honorable. It is besides injurious to health; the wheel is only six
feet in diameter, therefore the motion is rapid, and each step must be
taken in quick succession, and I know a quick, short step is more
fatiguing than a long one. The emaciated bodies of the poor fellows
proved this to my eyes, as did my powers of calculation. The
circulation of air was much needed; it was painful to me to breathe in
the room where the mill was, and I left it saddened and depressed. The
female department is even more lamentable, but I will say no more,
except that my guide and companion was Miss Mary Hodgson, a Quakeress
of great benevolence and solid understanding, whose labors among these
poor unfortunates have been of immense benefit. I dined with her, her
sister and brother, the latter a merchant of this busy city.
_Manchester, October 6._ This morning after four hours' rest I rose
early. Again taking my boots in my hand, I turned the latch gently,
and found myself alone in the early dawn. It was one of those mornings
when not sufficiently cold for a frost; the dew lay in large drops on
each object, weighing down the points of every leaf, every blade of
grass. The heavens were cloudless, all breezes hushed, and the only
sound the twitterings of the Red-breasted Warbler. I saw the Blackbird
mounted on the slender larch, waiting to salute the morning sun, the
Thrush on the grass by the mulberry tree, and the Lark unwilling to
bid farewell to summer. The sun rose, the Rook's voice now joined with
that of the Magpie. I saw a Stock Pigeon fly over me, and I started
and walked swiftly into Liverpool. Here, arriving before six, no one
was up, but by repeated knockings I aroused first Mr. Pillet, and then
Mr. Melly. On my return to the country I encountered Mr. Wm. Roscoe,
also out for an early walk. For several days past the last Swallows
have flown toward the south, frosts have altered the tints of the
foliage, and the mornings have been chilly; and I was rubbing my hands
to warm them when I met Mr. Roscoe. "A fine, warm morning this, Mr.
Audubon." "Yes," I replied, "the kind of morning I like a fire with
half a cord of wood." He laughed and said I was too tropical in my
tastes, but I was glad to keep warm by my rapid walking. At eleven I
was on my way to Manchester, this time in a private carriage with Mrs.
Rathbone and Miss Hannah. We changed horses twelve miles from Green
Bank; it was done in a moment, up went a new postilion, and off we
went. Our luncheon had been brought with us, and was really _well
served_ as we rolled swiftly along. After plenty of substantials, our
dessert consisted of grapes, pears, and a melon, this last by no means
so frequently seen here as in Louisiana. We reached smoky Manchester
and I was left at the door of the Academy of Natural History, where I
found the man I had left in charge much intoxicated. Seldom in my life
have I felt more vexed. When he is sober I shall give him the
opportunity of immediately finding a new situation.
_Quarry Bank, October 7, Saturday._ From Green Bank to Quarry Bank
from one pleasure to another, is not like the butterfly that skips
from flower to flower and merely sees their beauties, but more, I
hope, as a bee gathering honeyed stores for future use. My cold was
still quite troublesome, and many remedies were offered me, but I
never take physic, and will not, even for kind Mrs. Gregg.
_Sunday, October 8._ I went to church at Mr. Gregg's chapel; the
sermon was good, and the service being over, took Miss Helen a long
ramble through the gardens, in which even now there is much of beauty.
_October 9._ As soon as possible a male Chaffinch was procured, and I
sat to draw it to give an idea of what Mrs. Gregg calls "my style."
The Chaffinch was outlined, daubed with water-colors, and nearly
finished when we were interrupted by callers, Dr. Holland among them,
with whom I was much pleased and interested, though I am neither a
craniologist nor a physiognomist. Lord Stanford's gamekeeper again
came for us, and we had a long walk, and I killed a Pheasant and a
Hare.
_October 10._ To-day I returned to Manchester to meet Mr. Bohn. We
went to the Academy together, and examined my drawings. Mr. Bohn was
at first simply surprised, then became enthusiastic, and finally said
they must be published the full size of life, and he was _sure_ they
would pay. God grant it! He strongly advised me to leave Manchester,
and go to London, where he knew I should at once be recognized. I
dined at the good Quaker's, Mr. Dockray, where my friends Mrs. and
Miss Rathbone are visiting; there is a large and interesting family. I
sketched an Egret for one, a Wild Turkey for another, a Wood Thrush
for a third.