accomplished during the night, when the moon gave me a full view of
all that happened. The fish, contrary to custom, was _grained_ instead
of harpooned, but grained in such a way and so effectually, through
the forehead, that it was then held and suffered to flounce and beat
about the bow of the ship, until the man who had first speared it gave
the line holding the grain to our captain, slid along the bobstay with
a rope, then, after some little time and perhaps some difficulty, the
fish was secured immediately about its tail, and hoisted with that
part upwards. Arrived at the deck it gave a deep groan, much like the
last from a dying hog, flapped heavily once or twice, and died. I had
never before examined one of these closely, and the duck-bill-like
snout, and the curious disposition of the tail, with the body, were
new and interesting matters of observation to me. The large, sleek,
black body, the quantity of warm, black blood issuing from the wound,
the blowing apertures placed over the forehead,--all attracted my
attention. I requested it might be untouched till the next morning,
and my wish was granted. On opening it the intestines were still warm
(say eight hours after death), and resembled very much those of a hog.
The paunch contained several cuttle-fish partly decayed. The flesh was
removed from the skeleton and left the central bone supported on its
sides by two horizontal, and one perpendicular bone, giving it the
appearance of a four-edged cutting instrument; the lower jaw, or as I
would prefer writing it, mandible, exceeds the upper about
three-fourths of an inch. Both were furnished with single rows of
divided conical teeth, about one-half an inch in length, so parted as
to admit those of the upper jaw between each of those of the lower.
The fish might weigh about two hundred pounds. The eyes were small in
proportion to the size of the animal, and having a breathing aperture
above, of course it had no gills. Porpoises move in large companies,
and generally during spring and early summer go in pairs. I have seen
a parcel of them leap perpendicularly about twenty feet, and fall with
a heavy dash in the sea. Our captain told us that there were instances
when small boats had been sunk by one of these heavy fish falling into
them. Whilst I am engaged with the finny tribe (of which, however, I
know little or nothing), I may as well tell you that one morning when
moving gently, two miles per hour, the captain called me to show me
some pretty little fishes just caught from the cabin window. These
measured about three inches, were broad, and moved very quickly
through the water. We had pin-hooks, and with these, in about two
hours, three hundred and seventy were caught; they were sweet and good
as food. They are known ordinarily as Rudder-fish, and always keep on
the lee side of the rudder, as it affords them a strong eddy to
support them, and enable them to follow the vessel in that situation;
when calm they disperse about the bow and sides, and then will not
bite. The least breeze brings them all astern again in a compact body,
when they seize the baited hook the moment it reaches the water.
We have also caught two Sharks, one a female about seven feet long,
that had ten young, alive, and able to swim well; one of them was
thrown overboard and made off as if well accustomed to take care of
himself. Another was cut in two, and the head half swam off out of our
sight. The remainder, as well as the parent, were cut in pieces for
bait for Dolphins, which are extremely partial to that meat. The
weather being calm and pleasant, I felt desirous to have a view of the
ship from a distance and Captain Hatch politely took me in the yawl
and had it rowed all round the "Delos." This was a sight I had not
enjoyed for twenty years, and I was much pleased with it; afterwards
having occasion to go out to try the bearings of the current, I again
accompanied him, and bathed in the sea, not however without some fears
as to Sharks. To try the bearings of the current we took an iron pot
fastened to a line of one hundred and twenty fathoms, and made a
log-board out of a barrel's head leaded on one side to make it sink
perpendicularly on its edge, and tried the velocity of the current
with it fixed to a line _by the help of a second glass_,[65] whilst
our iron pot acted as an anchor.
Let me change my theme, and speak of birds awhile. Mother Carey's
Chickens (_Procellaria_) came about us, and I longed to have _at least
one_ in my possession. I had watched their evolutions, their gentle
patting of the sea when on the wing, with the legs hanging and the web
extended, seen them take large and long ranges in search of food, and
return for bits of fat thrown overboard for them, I had often looked
at different figures given by scientific men; but all this could not
diminish for a moment the long-wished for pleasure of possessing one
in the flesh. I fired, and dropped the first one that came alongside,
and the captain most courteously sent for it with the yawl. I made two
drawings of it; it proved to be a female with eggs, numerous, but not
larger than grains of fine powder, inducing me to think that these
birds must either breed earlier, or much later, than any in our
southern latitude. I should be inclined to think that the specimen I
inspected had not laid this season, though I am well satisfied that it
was an old bird. During many succeeding weeks I discovered that
numbers flew mated side by side, and occasionally, particularly on
calm, pleasant days caressed each other as Ducks are known to do.
_May 27, 1826._ Five days ago we saw a small vessel with all sails set
coming toward us; we were becalmed and the unknown had a light breeze.
It approached gradually; suspicions were entertained that it might be
a pirate, as we had heard that same day reports, which came
undoubtedly from cannon, and from the very direction from which this
vessel was coming. We were well manned, tolerably armed, and were all
bent on resistance, knowing well that these gentry gave no quarter, to
purses at least, and more or less uneasiness was perceptible on every
face. Night arrived, a squally breeze struck us, and off we moved, and
lost sight of the pursuing vessel in a short time. The next day a brig
that had been in our wake came near us, was hailed, and found to be
the "Gleaner," of Portland, commanded by an acquaintance of our
commander, and bound also to Liverpool. This vessel had left New
Orleans five days before us. We kept close together, and the next day
Captain Hatch and myself boarded her, and were kindly received; after
a short stay her captain, named Jefferson, came with us and remained
the day. I opened my drawings and showed a few of them. Mr. Swift was
anxious to see some, and I wanted to examine in what state they kept,
and the weather being dry and clear I feared nothing. It was agreed
the vessels should keep company until through the Gulf Stream, for
security against pirates. So fine has the weather been so far, that
all belonging to the cabin have constantly slept on deck; an awning
has been extended to protect from the sun by day and the dampness by
night. When full a hundred leagues at sea, a female Rice Bunting came
on board, and remained with us one night, and part of a day. A Warbler
also came, but remained only a few minutes, and then made for the land
we had left. It moved while on board with great activity and
sprightliness; the Bunting, on the contrary, was exhausted, panted,
and I have no doubt died of inanition.
Many Sooty Terns were in sight during several days. I saw one Frigate
Pelican high in air, and could only judge it to be such through the
help of a telescope. Flocks of unknown birds were also about the ship
during a whole day. They swam well, and preferred the water to the
air. They resembled large Phalaropes, but I could not be certain. A
small Alligator, that I had purchased for a dollar in New Orleans,
died at the end of nine days, through my want of knowledge, or
thought, that salt matter was poisonous to him. In two days he swelled
to nearly double his natural size, breathed hard, and, as I have said,
died.
In latitude 24 deg., 27', a Green Heron came on board, and remained until,
becoming frightened, it flew towards the brig "Gleaner;" it did not
appear in the least fatigued. The captain of the brig told me that on
a former voyage from Europe to New Orleans, when about fifty leagues
from the Balize, a fully grown Whooping Crane came on board his vessel
during the night, passing over the length of his deck, close over his
head, over the helmsman, and fell in the yawl; the next morning the
bird was found there completely exhausted, when every one on board
supposed it had passed on. A cage was made for it, but it refused
food, lingered a few days, and then died. It was plucked and found
free from any wound, and in good condition; a very singular case in
birds of the kind, that are inured to extensive journeys, and, of
course liable to spend much time without the assistance of food.
_June 4._ We are a few miles south of the Line, for the second time in
my life. Since I wrote last we have parted from our companion the
"Gleaner," and are yet in the Gulf of Mexico. I have been at sea three
Sundays, and yet we have not made the shores of Cuba. Since my last
date I have seen a large Sword-fish, but _only_ saw it, two Gannets,
caught a live Warbler, and killed a Great-footed Hawk. This bird,
after having alighted several times on our yards, made a dash at a
Warbler which was feeding on the flies about the vessel, seized it,
and ate it in our sight, _on the wing_, much like a Mississippi Kite
devouring the Red-throated Lizards. The warbler we caught was a
nondescript, which I named "The Cape Florida Songster." We also saw
two Frigate Pelicans at a great height, and a large species of Petrel,
entirely unknown to me. I have read Byron's "Corsair" with much
enjoyment.
_June 17._ A brig bound to Boston, called the "Andromache," came
alongside, and my heart rejoiced at the idea that letters could be
carried by her to America. I set to, and wrote to my wife and to
Nicholas Berthoud. A sudden squall separated us till quite late, but
we boarded her, I going with the captain; the sea ran high, and the
tossing of our light yawl was extremely disagreeable to my feelings.
The brig was loaded with cotton, extremely filthy, and I was glad to
discover that with all _our_ disagreeables we were comparatively
comfortable on the "Delos." We have been in sight of Cuba four days;
the heat excessive. I saw three beautiful White-headed Pigeons, or
Doves, flying about our ship, but after several rounds they shaped
their course towards the Floridas and disappeared. The Dolphins we
catch here are said to be poisonous; to ascertain whether they are or
not, a piece of fish is boiled with a silver dollar till quite cooked,
when if the coin is not tarnished or green, the fish is safe eating. I
find bathing in the sea water extremely refreshing, and enjoy this
luxury every night and morning. Several vessels are in sight.
_June 26._ We have been becalmed many days, and I should be dull
indeed were it not for the fishes and birds, and my pen and pencil. I
have been much interested in the Dusky Petrels; the mate killed four
at one shot, so plentiful were they about our vessel, and I have made
several drawings from these, which were brought on board for that
purpose. They skim over the sea in search of what is here called Gulf
Weed, of which there are large patches, perhaps half an acre in
extent. They flap the wings six or seven times, then soar for three or
four seconds, the tail spread, the wings extended. Four or five of
these birds, indeed sometimes as many as fifteen or twenty, will
alight on this weed, dive, flutter, and swim with all the gayety of
ducks on a pond, which they have reached after a weary journey. I
heard no note from any of them. No sooner have the Petrels eaten or
dispersed the fish than they rise and extend their wings for flight,
in search of more. At times, probably to rest themselves, they
alighted, swam lightly, dipping their bills frequently in the water as
Mergansers and fishy Ducks do when trying, by tasting, if the water
contains much fish. On inspection of the body, I found the wings
powerfully muscular and strong for the size of the bird, a natural
requisite for individuals that have such an extent of water to
traverse, and frequently heavy squalls to encounter and fight against.
The stomach, or pouch, resembled a leather purse of four inches in
length and was much distended by the contents, which were a compound
of fishes of different kinds, some almost entire, others more or less
digested. The gullet was capable of great extension. Fishes two and a
half inches by one inch were found nearly fresh. The flesh of these
Petrels smelt strong, and was tough and not fit to eat. I tasted some,
and found it to resemble the flesh of the Porpoise. There was no
difference in the sexes, either in size or color; they are sooty black
above, and snowy white below. The exact measurements are in my
memorandum-book.
_June 29._ This morning we came up with the ship "Thalia," of
Philadelphia, Captain John R. Butler, from Havana to Minorca up the
Mediterranean, with many passengers, Spaniards, on board. The captain
very politely offered us some fruit, which was gladly accepted, and in
return we sent them a large Dolphin, they having caught none. I sent a
Petrel, stuffed some days previously, as the captain asked for it for
the Philadelphia Society of Sciences.
_June 30._ Whilst sailing under a gentle breeze last night, the bird
commonly called by seamen "Noddy" alighted on the boom of the vessel,
and was very soon caught by the mate. It then uttered a rough cry, not
unlike that of a young crow when taken from the nest. It bit severely
and with quickly renewed movement of the bill, which, when it missed
the object in view, snapped like that of our larger Flycatchers. I
found it one of the same species that hovered over the seaweeds in
company with the large Petrel. Having kept it alive during the night,
when I took it in hand to draw it it was dull looking and silent. I
know nothing of this bird more than what our sailors say, that it is a
Noddy, and that they often alight on vessels in this latitude,
particularly in the neighborhood of the Florida Keys. The bird was in
beautiful plumage, but poor. The gullet was capable of great
extension, the paunch was empty, the heart large for the bird, and the
liver uncommonly so.
A short time before the capture of the above bird, a vessel of war, a
ship that we all supposed to be a South American Republican, or
Columbian, came between us and the "Thalia," then distant from us
about one and a half miles astern, fired a gun, and detained her for
some time, the reason probably being that the passengers were
Spaniards, and the cargo Spanish property; however, this morning both
vessels were in view making different routes. The man-of-war deigned
not to come to us, and none of us were much vexed at this mark of
inattention. This day has been calm; my drawing finished, I caught
four Dolphins; how much I have gazed at these beautiful creatures,
watching their last moments of life, as they changed their hue in
twenty varieties of richest arrangement of tints, from burnished gold
to silver bright, mixed with touches of ultramarine, rose, green,
bronze, royal purple, quivering to death on our hard, broiling deck.
As I stood and watched them, I longed to restore them to their native
element in all their original strength and vitality, and yet I felt
but a few moments before a peculiar sense of pleasure in catching them
with a hook to which they were allured by false pretences.
We have at last entered the Atlantic Ocean this morning and with a
propitious breeze; the land birds have left us, and I--I leave my
beloved America, my wife, my children, my friends. The purpose of this
voyage is to visit not only England, but the continent of Europe, with
the intention of publishing my work on the "Birds of America." If not
sadly disappointed my return to these shores, these happy shores, will
be the brightest day I have ever enjoyed. Oh! wife, children, friends,
America, farewell! farewell!
_July 9._ _At sea._ My leaving America had for some time the feelings
of a dream; I could scarce make up my mind fixedly on the subject. I
thought continually I still saw my beloved friends, and my dear wife
and children. I still felt every morning when I awoke that the land of
America was beneath me, and that I would in a short time throw myself
on the ground in her shady woods, and watch for, and listen to the
many lovely warblers. But now that I have positively been at sea since
_fifty-one_ days, tossing to and fro, without the sight or the touch
of those dear to me, I feel fully convinced, and look forward with an
anxiety such as I never felt before, when I calculate that not less
than four months, the third of a year, must elapse before my wife and
children can receive any tidings of my arrival on the distant shores
to which I am bound. When I think that many more months must run from
the Life's sand-glass allotted to my existence before I can think of
returning, and that my re-union with my friends and country is yet an
unfolded and unknown event, I am filled with sudden apprehensions
which I cannot describe nor dispel.
Our fourth of July was passed near the Grand Banks, and how
differently from any that I can recollect. The weather was thick,
foggy, and as dull as myself; not a sound of rejoicing reached my
ears, not once did I hear "Hail Columbia! Happy land." My companion
passengers lay about the deck and on the cotton-bales, basking like
Crocodiles, while the sun occasionally peeped out of the smoky haze
that surrounded us; yet the breeze was strong, the waves moved
majestically, and thousands of large Petrels displayed their elegant,
aerial movements. How much I envied their power of flight to enable me
to be here, there, and all over the globe comparatively speaking, in a
few moments, throwing themselves edgeways against the breeze, as if a
well sharpened arrow shot with the strength and grace of one sprung
from the bow of an Apollo. I had remarked a regular increase in the
number of these Petrels ever since the capes of Florida were passed;
but here they were so numerous, and for part of a day flew in such
succession towards the west and southwest, that I concluded they were
migrating to some well known shore to deposit their eggs, or perhaps
leading their young. These very seldom alighted; they were full the
size of a common gull, and as they flew they showed in quick
alternations the whole upper and under part of their bodies, sometimes
skimming low, sometimes taking immense curves, then dashing along the
deep trough of the sea, going round our vessel (always out of
gun-reach) as if she had been at anchor. Their lower parts are white,
the head all white, and the upper part of the body and wings above
sooty brown. I would imagine that one of these Petrels flies over as
much distance in one hour, as one of the little black Petrels in our
wake does in twelve. Since we have left the neighborhood of the Banks,
these birds have gradually disappeared, and now in latitude 44 deg., 53' I
see none. Our captain and sailors speak of them as companions in
storms, as much as their little relations Mother Carey's chickens.
As suddenly as if we had just turned the summit of a mountain dividing
a country south of the equator from Iceland, the weather altered in
the present latitude and longitude. My light summer clothing was not
sufficient, and the dews that fell at night rendered the deck, where I
always slept, too damp to be comfortable. This, however, of two evils
I preferred, for I could not endure the more disagreeable odors of the
cabin, where now the captain, officers, and Mr. Swift, eat their meals
daily. The length of the days has increased astonishingly; at nine
o'clock I can easily read large print. Dawn comes shortly after 2 A.
M., and a long day is before us.
_At Sea--July, 1826._ We had several days a stiff breeze that wafted
us over the deep fully nine miles an hour. This was congenial to my
wishes, but not to my feelings. The motion of the vessel caused
violent headaches, far more distressing than any seasickness I had
ever experienced. Now, for the third or fourth time, I read Thomson's
"Seasons," and I believe enjoyed them better than ever.
Among our live stock on board, we had a large hen. This bird was very
tame and quite familiar with the ins and outs of the vessel, and was
allowed all the privileges of the deck. She had been hatched on board,
and our cook, who claimed her as his property, was much attached to
her, as was also the mate. One morning she imprudently flew overboard,
while we were running three miles an hour. The yawl was immediately
lowered, four men rowed her swiftly towards the floating bird that
anxiously looked at her place of abode gliding from her; she was
picked up, and her return on board seemed to please every one, and I
was gratified to see such kind treatment to a bird; it assured me, had
I needed that assurance, that the love of animals develops the better
side of all natures. Our hen, however, ended her life most
distressingly not long after this narrow escape; she again flew over
the side, and the ship moving at nine knots, the sea very high and
rough, the weather rainy and squally, the captain thought it imprudent
to risk the men for the fowl; so, notwithstanding the pleadings of the
cook, we lost sight of the adventurous bird in a few moments. We have
our long boat as usual lashed to the deck; but instead of being filled
with lumber as is usually the case, it now contained three passengers,
all bound to Europe to visit friends, with the intention of returning
to America in the autumn. One has a number of books which he politely
offered me; he plays most sweetly on the flute, and is a man superior
to his apparent situation. We have a tailor also; this personage is
called a deck hand, but the fact is, that two thirds of his time is
spent sleeping on the windlass. This man, however, like all others in
the world, is useful in his way. He works whenever called on, and will
most cheerfully put a button or a patch on any one's clothing; his
name is Crow, and during the entire voyage, thus far, he has lived
solely on biscuit and raw bacon. We now see no fish except now and
then a shoal of porpoises. I frequently long for the beautiful
Dolphins in the Gulf of Mexico; Whales have been seen by the sailors,
but not by me. During this tedious voyage I frequently sit and watch
our captain at his work; I do not remember ever to have seen a man
more industrious or more apt at doing nearly everything he needs
himself. He is a skilful carpenter and turner, cooper, tin and black
smith, and an excellent tailor; I saw him making a pair of pantaloons
of fine cloth with all the neatness that a city brother of the
cross-legged faculty could have used. He made a handsome patent swift
for his wife, and a beautiful plane for his own use, manufactured out
of a piece of beechwood that probably grew on the banks of the Ohio,
as I perceived it had been part of a flat-boat, and brought on board
to be used for fuel. He can plait straw in all sorts of ways, and make
excellent bearded fishhooks out of common needles. He is an excellent
sailor, and the more stormy it becomes, the gayer he is, even when
drenched to the skin. I was desirous of understanding the means of
ascertaining the latitude on land, and also to find the true rising of
the sun whilst travelling in the uninhabited parts of America; this he
showed me with pleasure, and I calculated our latitude and longitude
from this time, though not usually fond of mathematics. To keep busy I
go often about the deck pencil in hand, sketching the different
attitudes of the sailors, and many a laugh is caused by these rough
drawings. Both the mates have shown a kindness towards me that I
cannot forget. The first mate is S. L. Bragdon from Wells, the second
Wm. Hobart from Kennebunk.
To-day we came in with a new set and species of Petrels, resembling
those in the Gulf of Mexico, but considerably larger; between fifty
and sixty were at one time close to the vessel, catching small fish
that we guessed to be herrings; the birds swam swiftly over the water,
their wings raised, and now and then diving and dipping after the
small fry; they flew heavily, and with apparent reluctance, and
alighted as soon as we passed them. I was satisfied that several in
our wake had followed us from the Gulf of Mexico; the sudden change in
the weather must have been seriously felt by them.
_July 12._ I had a beautiful view of a Whale about five hundred yards
from the vessel when we first perceived it; the water thrown from his
spiracles had the appearance of a small, thick cloud, twelve or
fourteen feet wide. Never have I felt the weather so cold in July. We
are well wrapped up, and yet feel chilly in the drizzling rain.
_July 15._ Yesterday-night ended the ninth Sunday passed at sea; the
weather continues cold, but the wind is propitious. We are approaching
land, and indeed I thought I smelt the "land smell." We have had many
Whales near us during the day, and an immense number of Porpoises; our
captain, who prefers their flesh to the best of veal, beef, or mutton,
said he would give five dollars for one; but our harpoon is broken,
and although several handles were fastened for a while to the grain,
the weapon proved too light, and the fish invariably made their escape
after a few bounces, probably to go and die in misery. European Hawks
were seen, and two Curlews; these gave me hope that we might see the
long desired land shortly.
_July 18, 1826._ The sun is shining clear over Ireland; that land was
seen at three o'clock this morning by the man at the helm, and the
mate, with a stentorian voice, announced the news. As we approached
the coast a small boat neared us, and came close under our lee; the
boat looked somewhat like those employed in bringing in heavy loads to
New Orleans, but her sails were more tattered, her men more fair in
complexion. They hailed us and offered for sale fresh fish, new
potatoes, fresh eggs. All were acceptable, I assure thee. They threw a
light line to us most dexterously. Fish, potatoes, and eggs were
passed to us, in exchange for whiskey, salt pork, and tobacco, which
were, I trust, as acceptable to them as their wares were to us. I
thought the exchange a fair one, but no!--they called for rum, brandy,
whiskey, more of everything. Their expressions struck me with wonder;
it was "Here's to your Honor,"--"Long life to your Honor,"--"God
bless your Honor,"--_Honors_ followed with such rapidity that I turned
away in disgust. The breeze freshened and we proceeded fast on our
way. Perhaps to-morrow may see me safe on land again--perhaps
to-morrow may see us all stranded, perishing where the beautiful
"Albion" went ashore.