CHAPTER XII

SIERRA THUNDER-STORMS

The weather of spring and summer in the middle region of the Sierra is

usually well flecked with rains and light dustings of snow, most of

which are far too obviously joyful and life-giving to be regarded as

storms; and in the picturesque beauty and clearness of outlines of

their clouds they offer striking contrasts to those boundless,

all-embracing cloud-mantles of the storms of winter. The smallest and

most perfectly individualized specimens present a richly modeled

cumulous cloud rising above the dark woods, about 11 A.M., swelling

with a visible motion straight up into the calm, sunny sky to a height

of 12,000 to 14,000 feet above the sea, its white, pearly bosses

relieved by gray and pale purple shadows in the hollows, and showing

outlines as keenly defined as those of the glacier-polished domes. In

less than an hour it attains full development and stands poised in the

blazing sunshine like some colossal mountain, as beautiful in form and

finish as if it were to become a permanent addition to the landscape.

Presently a thunderbolt crashes through the crisp air, ringing like

steel on steel, sharp and clear, its startling detonation breaking into

a spray of echoes against the cliffs and cañon walls. Then down comes a

cataract of rain. The big drops sift through the pine-needles, plash

and patter on the granite pavements, and pour down the sides of ridges

and domes in a network of gray, bubbling rills. In a few minutes the

cloud withers to a mesh of dim filaments and disappears, leaving the

sky perfectly clear and bright, every dust-particle wiped and washed

out of it. Everything is refreshed and invigorated, a steam of

fragrance rises, and the storm is finished—one cloud, one

lightning-stroke, and one dash of rain. This is the Sierra mid-summer

thunder-storm reduced to its lowest terms. But some of them attain much

larger proportions, and assume a grandeur and energy of expression

hardly surpassed by those bred in the depths of winter, producing those

sudden floods called “cloud-bursts,” which are local, and to a

considerable extent periodical, for they appear nearly every day about

the same time for weeks, usually about eleven o’clock, and lasting from

five minutes to an hour or two. One soon becomes so accustomed to see

them that the noon sky seems empty and abandoned without them, as if

Nature were forgetting something. When the glorious pearl and alabaster

clouds of these noonday storms are being built I never give attention

to anything else. No mountain or mountain-range, however divinely

clothed with light, has a more enduring charm than those fleeting

mountains of the sky—floating fountains bearing water for every well,

the angels of the streams and lakes; brooding in the deep azure, or

sweeping softly along the ground over ridge and dome, over meadow, over

forest, over garden and grove; lingering with cooling shadows,

refreshing every flower, and soothing rugged rock-brows with a

gentleness of touch and gesture wholly divine.

[Illustration: BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, YOSEMITE VALLEY.]

The most beautiful and imposing of the summer storms rise just above

the upper edge of the Silver Fir zone, and all are so beautiful that it

is not easy to choose any one for particular description. The one that

I remember best fell on the mountains near Yosemite Valley, July 19,

1869, while I was encamped in the Silver Fir woods. A range of bossy

cumuli took possession of the sky, huge domes and peaks rising one

beyond another with deep cañons between them, bending this way and that

in long curves and reaches, interrupted here and there with white

upboiling masses that looked like the spray of waterfalls. Zigzag

lances of lightning followed each other in quick succession, and the

thunder was so gloriously loud and massive it seemed as if surely an

entire mountain was being shattered at every stroke. Only the trees

were touched, however, so far as I could see,—a few firs 200 feet high,

perhaps, and five to six feet in diameter, were split into long rails

and slivers from top to bottom and scattered to all points of the

compass. Then came the rain in a hearty flood, covering the ground and

making it shine with a continuous sheet of water that, like a

transparent film or skin, fitted closely down over all the rugged

anatomy of the landscape.

It is not long, geologically speaking, since the first raindrop fell on

the present landscapes of the Sierra; and in the few tens of thousands

of years of stormy cultivation they have been blest with, how beautiful

they have become! The first rains fell on raw, crumbling moraines and

rocks without a plant. Now scarcely a drop can fail to find a beautiful

mark: on the tops of the peaks, on the smooth glacier pavements, on the

curves of the domes, on moraines full of crystals, on the thousand

forms of yosemitic sculpture with their tender beauty of balmy, flowery

vegetation, laving, plashing, glinting, pattering; some falling softly

on meadows, creeping out of sight, seeking and finding every thirsty

rootlet, some through the spires of the woods, sifting in dust through

the needles, and whispering good cheer to each of them; some falling

with blunt tapping sounds, drumming on the broad leaves of veratrum,

cypripedium, saxifrage; some falling straight into fragrant corollas,

kissing the lips of lilies, glinting on the sides of crystals, on

shining grains of gold; some falling into the fountains of snow to

swell their well-saved stores; some into the lakes and rivers, patting

the smooth glassy levels, making dimples and bells and spray, washing

the mountain windows, washing the wandering winds; some plashing into

the heart of snowy falls and cascades as if eager to join in the dance

and the song and beat the foam yet finer. Good work and happy work for

the merry mountain raindrops, each one of them a brave fall in itself,

rushing from the cliffs and hollows of the clouds into the cliffs and

hollows of the mountains; away from the thunder of the sky into the

thunder of the roaring rivers. And how far they have to go, and how

many cups to fill—cassiope-cups, holding half a drop, and lake basins

between the hills, each replenished with equal care—every drop God’s

messenger sent on its way with glorious pomp and display of

power—silvery new-born stars with lake and river, mountain and

valley—all that the landscape holds—reflected in their crystal depths.

The Mountains of California · 第 12 / 16 章