Another object of the collector of insects, when he has once

entrapped them, is to bring them _safe_ home. The Entomologists on

the Continent, I believe, generally transfix their prey, of whatever

Order, with a pin, as soon as they are caught: but as _hard_ ones,

such as _Coleoptera_, _Hemiptera_, &c., may be destroyed without

injury by immersion either in spirits of wine or boiling water; and

as large beetles, if transfixed (not to mention the unnecessary

cruelty of so serving them), are apt to whirl round upon the pin in

spite of any precaution, and injure themselves, and destroy other

insects that are in their way, it seems best to kill them by other

more effectual methods. With regard to those that would be injured

by immersion in any fluid, as the _Lepidoptera_, _Hymenoptera_,

_Diptera_, &c., they must be secured as soon as taken; and after

having disabled them as much as you can without injuring them, by

pressing the trunk below the wings with the finger and thumb, they

should be transfixed and put into a pocket-box lined with cork. Some

use an oblong deep chip one, with paper pasted over it, and lined at

top and bottom, the top being convenient for setting small moths. But

this you will find not easy to open when you have an insect in one

hand; and it is too deep for the pocket. I generally use a mahogany

one, about 7-1/2 inches by 4-1/2 and 1-1/4 deep in the clear, corked

only at the bottom, and opening by pressing a spring, which can be

done with one hand. This will contain as many of the above insects

as you will usually take in a day's excursion. When travelling, you

should provide yourself with larger store-boxes, to receive at night

the fruit of the day's hunt. These may be 18 inches square and 2-1/2

deep, corked at top and bottom; which should be of equal depth,

and fit very closely, to keep out _Acari_, &c. Entomologists have

recourse to various ways of bringing home insects for immersion. For

the larger ones, you must be provided with a number of small boxes,

the lids of which are not liable to come off in the pocket. If it can

be done, it is best to have only a single insect in a box. If you

have several, those that are predaceous in their habits will probably

devour the rest: and besides, if you open a box to put in other

insects, generally one or two of those before imprisoned in it will

make their escape. It is best to put the boxes containing an insect

in one pocket, and the empty ones in another. If your boxes are

numbered, in a small memorandum-book, which you should carry for the

purpose, you may make any remarks as to the food, station, and habits

of any insect you may take, inserting against them the number of the

box or phial that contains it, and it will be ready for future use.

For the smaller beetles, &c. a number of phials, with their rims

ground down and the mouths well fitted with corks, must be provided;

but for those you do not wish to keep separate, a wide-mouthed phial

filled with spirits of wine, which soon kills them, is the best

receptacle. I have found, when at a loss, a piece of elder, with

the pith taken out to a sufficient depth at each end and each mouth

stopped with a wooden plug, a useful insect box. As numerous insects

inhabit the various species of _Boleti_, if you go where these are to

be found, unless you are a very agile person and expert at climbing,

a boy with a short light ladder will be no useless accompaniment.

Something may be said in this place upon the _dress_ with which the

Entomologist should provide himself. I shall not recommend to you,

in imitation of the insect-hunters in the vignette to Reaumur's

second volume, to put on a bag-wig and a velvet court-dress; but the

plain fustian jacket with side and other pockets used by English

sportsmen will very well suit your purpose; only let the pockets be

sufficiently ample: have also an inside one fixed on the left-hand

side to receive your forceps. You may also have a bag like a

shooter's, or an angler's basket, which may contain your nets till

you want to use them. With all your implements about you, you will

perhaps at first be stared and grinned at by the vulgar; but they

will soon become reconciled to you, and regard you no more than your

brethren of the angle and of the gun. Things that are unusual are

too often esteemed ridiculous; and the philosopher whose object is

to collect and study the wonderful works of his CREATOR, is often

regarded by the ignorant plebeian as little short of a madman.

Such is the apparatus to be provided by the entomological Nimrod:

it is not often, however, that it will be necessary, except in

distant excursions, to encumber and disfigure yourself with the

whole. Even in this pursuit more may be effected by a judicious

division of labour, than by grasping at every thing at once; and your

acquisitions will in the end be more numerous, and your acquaintance

with them more intimate, if at one time you devote yourself to the

woods and hedges, another to the plains and meadows, a third to any

heaths in your vicinity, and a fourth to the collection of aquatic

insects whether from stagnant or running waters:--having thus chosen

the scene of action, you may equip yourself accordingly. You will

of course, though in pursuit of a particular description of game,

not neglect to seize any other insects that fall in your way; but

for this purpose it is unnecessary to be always provided with a

certain instrument. Dr. Franklin used to say that a man would never

make a Natural Philosopher, who, in performing his experiments,

could not saw with a gimblet or bore with a saw; and so we may say,

he will never make an expert collector of insects, who on occasion

cannot fish with his hand or forceps, use his hat or an old letter

to beat his game into, or, in the absence of boxes or bottles,

contrive to secure his captures in small pieces of paper twisted up.

Sparrman, when at the Cape, was wont,--to the no small amazement of

the wondering natives, who took him for a conjurer,--to stick his

impaled insects round the outside of his hat[1563]: and though I

should not recommend such an exhibition in a civilized region, it

has often struck me that the cavity of a modern hat, if lined with

cork, might be made a very useful receptacle for these animals in a

long excursion. Indeed, an active Entomologist is never at a loss

for an apparatus, but often makes his most valuable captures when

unprovided with other instruments than his hands and eyes. A careful

survey of the trunk and branches of trees and shrubs, particularly of

the underside of their leaves, seldom fails to detect many a lurking

moth or beetle, which may be transfixed or otherwise captured with

little trouble by an expert hand. In this way an ingenious collector,

who scarcely knew what a net of any kind was, told me he had made his

whole collection, which was rather extensive. It is, in fact, only

by thus detecting them when reposing, and adroitly shutting them up

along with the leaf on which they sit, in a box, that minute moths

(whose beauty and freshness the slightest handling destroys) can

ordinarily be taken without being injured. The boxes containing them

should afterwards be exposed to the action of heat, a low degree of

which will destroy them.

* * * * *

Enough has been said upon the best modes of _catching_ insects:--I

shall next attempt to give you some further instructions as to the

most effectual one of _destroying_ them when caught, and to point

out how you are to proceed with them after they are dead. As I

sufficiently rebutted the charge of cruelty in a former letter[1564],

it will not be necessary to enter here into that subject.

I have before recommended to you the use of _spirits of wine_, and

shall here repeat my recommendation; for after several years trial,

I am of Böhm's opinion, who had tried it nine years[1565], that it

is superior to any other method; particularly, because it not only

effectually kills the insects, and they may be put together into it

while you are collecting, if you have no reason for keeping them

separate, of all sorts and sizes, in a wide-mouthed phial, without

danger of their devouring each other: but when you come home wearied

with a long day's hunt, you may let your insects remain in it without

injury till the next morning. In collecting beetles abroad, when

there is a want of store-boxes the readiest way is to put them into

a wide-mouthed bottle or jar filled with any spirit, and send them

home in it: some few may lose their colours, or become greasy; but in

general they will receive little injury. This method saves room, and

avoids the risk of breakage. The derangement which some hairy species

sustain from this method may be readily repaired by brushing them

with a dry camel's-hair pencil.

When you wish to take the insects you have immersed in spirits

out of the phial, you must strain its contents through a piece of

muslin, return the spirit into it for future use, and spread the

insects _separately_ upon blotting-paper, to absorb the moisture

remaining about them. With regard to such as you have in boxes or

phials without spirit, these must be immersed in a basin of _boiling_

water. First empty into it the contents of your boxes, and next,

those of your phials; giving each, before you take out the cork,

a smart rap, that the insects adhering to the latter may drop to

the bottom: or you may immerse the phial itself, with the cork in,

which soon destroys them, and is the safest plan. This done, with a

camel's-hair pencil or feather take them out of the water, lay them

upon blotting-paper to dry, and put them by for a few hours till you

have leisure to impale and set them.

Those insects that are caught by the _forceps_ would for the most

part escape you, were you to attempt to get them out before you had

transfixed them. You must therefore do this while the leaves of the

instrument are closed; and then opening them, and taking the pin by

the point, the head will readily pass through the catgut; and thus

you may safely take, and more effectually kill your specimen by

pressing it as before directed. With respect to _Lepidoptera_, it

is necessary to disable them while yet in the fly-net, immediately

after their capture. To effect this, while one hand holds both the

rods of the closed net, with the other stretch the gauze so as to

confine your insect within a narrow space; bring its wings into an

erect position, and prevent its fluttering: which being done, with

your finger and thumb give its breast a strong pinch below the wings;

and then unfolding your net, and taking it up by one of its antennæ,

place it between the finger and thumb of your left hand, stick a pin

through it, and deposit it in your pocket-box.

But though nipping the breast will kill many small _Lepidoptera_,

the larger ones will live long after it; as will likewise many

_Neuroptera_, _Hymenoptera_, and _Diptera_: and besides this, in some

_Bombycidæ_ the thorax presents a very conspicuous and interesting

character, which renders it desirable, in order to avoid the damage

or derangement occasioned by pressure, to transfix them without it.

To dispatch these effectually, you will find the following apparatus

very convenient. Fix in a small tin saucepan[1566] filled with boiling

water, a tin tube consisting of two pieces[1567] that fit into each

other; cover the mouth of the lower one[1568] with a piece of gauze or

canvass, and place your insects upon it; then fix the upper one[1569]

over it, and cover also the mouth of this with gauze, &c.; and the

steam from the boiling water will effectually kill your insects without

injuring their plumage. There is another more simple mode of doing

this, the apparatus for which may be met with every where. Fix a piece

or two of elder, willow, or any soft wood, with the bark on, across the

bottom of a mug, and on this stick your impaled insects; invert the

mug in a deep basin, into which pour boiling water till it is covered,

holding it down with a knife, &c., that the expansion of the included

air may not overturn it. In two minutes, or less, all the insects

will be found quite dead, and not at all wetted. If the sticks do not

exactly fit, they may be wedged in with a piece of cork. Professor

Peck, who used to put minute insects into the hollow of a quill stopped

with a piece of wood made to fit, killed them instantaneously by

holding it over the flame of a candle.

Having killed your insects, your next object should be to prepare

them for your cabinet. First, place by you a pincushion well stored

with lace-pins of various magnitudes and lengths: for most insects

those nearly an inch in length, for large ones, those that are

thicker and longer, but for _Lepidoptera_, a stouter kind, as _short

whites_, are best. Next, take the _Coleoptera_ and _Hemiptera_

that, as before directed, you have laid by on blotting-paper after

immersion, and begin your operations, selecting the largest first.

The pin should be stuck through the middle of the right-hand

elytrum[1570], and about _one third_ of its whole length should

emerge above the insect. Some _foreign_ collectors, probably having

in view its more convenient examination with a microscope under

the glass of a drawer, bring it nearer the head of the pin: while

the _English_ ones, on the contrary, studying the most ornamental

position of their specimens, leave only enough of the point free to

fix them safely in their drawers[1571]. Both these methods are open

to objection. When the insect is too near the head of the pin, it is

difficult to fix it in your cabinet without bending the wire; and

there is danger, without great care, of injuring the specimen when

you put it in or take it out. Again: When the legs of your insect

rest on the surface they collect the dust and dirt, are very liable

to be broken, and the length of the pin above it is inconvenient when

you have occasion to examine any one under a lens. _Lepidoptera_,

however, which are never thus examined, may always be transfixed in

this way, which sets them off to the greatest advantage.

Some insects, especially of the beetle tribe, are so extremely minute

that it is next to an impossibility to get a pin through them without

injuring, and often destroying them. By using fine needles, or very

slender pins manufactured on purpose, this difficulty might perhaps

be surmounted; but the needles will be subject to rust, and the pins,

I know by experience, cannot be fixed in cork without difficulty. For

such minute insects, therefore, by far the best mode is to _gum_ them

on small pieces of card, which may be stuck upon a pin. Talc, which

admits the underside of an insect to be seen through it, has been

used for this purpose; and where you have only a single specimen, a

thin small lamina of it would answer well; but ordinarily I should

recommend the former mode. Your pieces of card, which must be small,

may be either oblong and cut at the corners for neatness, with a

couple of specimens gummed upon each, one on its belly and the other

on its back; or you may cut little narrow card wedges, about four

lines long and terminating in a point, upon which you may so gum your

insects as to show the principal part of the under side, as well as

the upper side of its body. Common gum-water made rather thin, with a

very little glue mixed with it, will answer your purpose very well:

it should be thinly spread on the card with a camel's-hair pencil,

and then the insect placed upon it. With the same implement, if it

has not been killed too long, before the gum is dry you may expand

its antennæ, palpi, legs, and wings, &c. If you want to remove a

specimen gummed on a card for any purpose, it is easily effected by

plunging it into hot water.

Other insects may be transfixed through the thorax or upper side of

the trunk; as also those _Coleoptera_, _Orthoptera_, and _Hemiptera_,

whose wings you are desirous of expanding; only you should be careful

that your pin passes through them _behind_ the _prothorax_.

Having impaled your insects, the next thing to be done is to _set_

them. The best time for doing this is not till they have begun to

stiffen, but before they are become quite stiff. If attempted soon

after they are killed, the parts, unless you keep them in the intended

position by means of pins or braces, will not retain it; and if after

they are become too stiff, they are liable to be broken. Not only

should the antennæ and palpi be extended so as to be readily seen; but

the legs, and often the wings, ought to be placed in their natural

position; all of which tends much to the beauty of your specimens, and

adapts them for more ready examination. But as this operation requires

time, and beauty and regularity may be purchased too dear if at the

price of hours called for by science, you may be left to your own

discretion in this business, only you should always with a pin expand

the antennæ and palpi if possible. You might, however, both save your

time and have your insects neatly set, if you would take the trouble

to instruct some acute and handy youth in your neighbourhood in the

_modus operandi_, and devolve this department upon him: and as none are

quicker and more expert in capturing insects than boys, he might also

assist you in your hunting expeditions.

I do not mean, however, to leave you at liberty with regard to the

setting of _Lepidopterous_ insects, which not only have a much worse

appearance than those of other Orders if their wings be not regularly

and uniformly expanded, but require it for the proper display of

their characters. The necessary apparatus consists of a piece of cork

about nine inches long, four broad, and half an inch thick, which

should be made perfectly smooth, with a piece of white paper pasted

over it; and of several narrow slips of card or braces, tapering

gradually to a point, of different lengths, from half an inch to two

inches or more, with a pin fixed in each at the broadest end. Thus

provided, you may proceed to action. But you must first decide whether,

like the continental Entomologists, you will set your _Lepidoptera_

horizontally; or, like the British, with their wings declining

obliquely from the body. If you prefer the former method, the body must

be let into a groove, and the wings expanded as flatly as possible,

the anterior margin of the primary pair being brought forward so as

to project beyond the head. But as this usually gives the insect an

unnatural and formal appearance, I apprehend a man of your taste will

prefer the mode adopted by your compatriots, the collectors of Britain,

who in setting make the wings form an angle, varying according to the

size and characters of the insect, with the body, and do not bring

the anterior wings so forward. The wings of butterflies however, in

order to appear at all natural, should be set more horizontally. Which

fashion soever you prefer, the mode of operating is nearly the same;

only that the English plan, except in the case of some large-bodied

moths or hawk-moths, requires no groove in the setting-board. After

you have stuck the insect upon the cork so as to bring its body close

to its surface, stretch the anterior wing with a needle fixed in a

handle, or a camel's-hair pencil, applied to the joint at the base,

sufficiently forward, and then confine it by means of one of your card

braces:--next, do the same by the opposite wing. Afterwards expand the

posterior wings, which must not be separated from the anterior so as

to leave any interval between them, and fix them with braces. When

you are become expert, you will find, if the fly is not large, that

a single brace will be sufficient for each pair of wings[1572]: but

sometimes, if the card be not sufficiently stiff, you may confine it

by a pin near the point. You must be careful in expanding the wings

that each is brought equally forward. Lastly, give the antennæ their

proper position, and if necessary confine them with braces; and leave

your specimen in an airy situation to dry and stiffen. In a few days

the braces may be removed, and the specimen transferred to the cabinet.

When you put them away to become stiff, you must be careful to place

them and your other insects at _night_ where earwigs cannot come at

them; for in sultry weather these animals will often then attack and

spoil them.

It is obvious that this process can only be performed while the

joints and ligaments of the insect are still flexible; so that

small species, in warm weather, will often be immoveably rigid

before you can have an opportunity of setting them. On this account

collectors usually set minute moths as soon as taken, which can be

readily done on the lid of a cork-lined box. But fortunately both

these, and specimens which have been dried for years, may be relaxed

and rendered pliable by a very simple process. Fill a basin more

than half full of sand, and saturate it with water; pour off the

superfluous water, and cover the sand with blotting-paper: into this

stick the insects you wish to relax, and covering the basin closely,

leave them there for two or three days, according to their size; and

the evaporation will render them sufficiently flexible for expansion

or any other purpose. Beetles may be relaxed by plunging them for a

short time in warm water or spirits of wine[1573].

Many moths of the tribe of _Tinea_ L. are so extremely minute,

that it is almost impossible to set them without defacing their

characters: indeed, the trunk of some is so small as not to admit

being pierced by a pin. These, therefore, it is adviseable merely

to gum upon card, expanding their wings (which the gum will easily

retain in their proper situation) with a camel's-hair pencil. If

you have two specimens, you may fix one in the natural position

when at rest,--a method I should recommend with respect to other

_Lepidoptera_, and indeed insects in general. Pezold advises that,

by way of contrast, _white_ card should be used for _dark_-coloured

species of these little moths, and _black_ for such as are _pale_.

As the wings of different _Coleopterous_ groups, as well as those of

_Hymenoptera_, _Diptera_, &c., vary in their neuration[1574], you

should, whenever you can, set open the elytra and expand the wings of

one specimen at least in each group, which will be very important to

you in making out the characters of your genera.

When sufficiently dried, your insects should be transferred from

the setting-boards, either to their place in your cabinet or to the

store-box before described, till you have leisure to investigate them.

However tedious some of the foregoing manipulations may seem, they

are in fact much less so than those required in several other

branches of Natural History, where, in addition to the labour of

catching, the nice and difficult task of clearing the skeleton of

its muscular covering, and its internal cavity of its contents,

and then of stuffing it and replacing its perished eyes by glass

ones of the proper colour, is a necessary process with every

individual. Happily the Entomologist, from the smallness of his game

and the nature of their integument, is usually spared this labour.

There are some few insects, however, in which a process in some

degree analogous is requisite, if the beauty of the specimens be a

consideration. Thus the abdomen of _dragon-flies_ is very apt to lose

its colour, and that of the _Meloës_ to shrink up, if left in their

natural state: these therefore should be eviscerated; which may be

done by slitting the abdomen longitudinally on the _under_ side, then

carefully removing its contents, and stuffing it with cotton. In the

former, a small straw or stalk of hay may be used, which will prevent

the fractures to which that part, when dry, is so liable. _Spiders_,

and a few _apterous_ genera, as well as almost all _larvæ_, as they

usually shrink up, in drying, into a shapeless mass, destitute of

every character dependent on colour or form, require to be preserved

in a different manner. They may all be very well kept in rectified

spirits of wine mixed with water, in the proportion of three parts of

the former to one of the latter. Each, suspended by a thread, should

be put in a separate very small labelled phial. Larger spiders, such

as _Mygale aviculare_, &c., when suffered to dry, though the abdomen

shrinks, do not wholly lose their characters, and are often kept in

cabinets: but if preserved in spirits, they may be put into larger

wide-mouthed bottles, suspended at different heights, with a label on

the outside opposite to each species. Mr. Abbott of Georgia had an

excellent method of preserving _caterpillars_, so that his specimens

retain their colours and other attributes, and look as if they were

alive. I am not acquainted with his process, but the following will

answer very well.--The animal must first be killed by immersion in

spirits of wine; next you must eviscerate it, which is best effected

by gradual pressure of the finger and thumb. You must begin at the

head, and so proceed till all the fluid contents of the body have

passed out at the anus, which you may enlarge with a fine pair of

scissors, being careful not to injure the anal prolegs. When you have

cleared the skin as much as possible, introduce a fine glass tube, or

a piece of hay or slender straw into the anus, round which, as near

to the extremity as may be, pass loosely a fine thread: then blowing

through the tube, when the skin is fully inflated withdraw it, at the

same time pulling the thread tight and securing it by a knot. The

caterpillar will now exhibit its proper shape and colours; to retain

which, all that is necessary is to hold it near the flame of a lamp

until perfectly dry, which will be in a few minutes, when it may be

placed in the cabinet along with the imago to which it belongs[1575].

* * * * *

An Introduction to Entomology: Vol. 4 or Elements of the Natural History of the Insects · 第 37 / 50 段