Letter from Fred Markham to his Mother--Entrance of the Czar into
Moscow--Saveleff presents his Petition--Grand Review of Troops--
Coronation of the Emperor--Fete at the Opera--State Balls--The
Illumination--The People's Feast--The People's Ball--Fireworks--
Character of Russians--Thieving Propensities--Russian's Aptitude for
Commerce--Cucumber-water--Aqueduct of Moscow--Cursing Heretics--
Blessing the Waters--Blessing Fruits--Christening Ceremony--Story of a
Post-office for the Saints--High Mass in a Greek Church--Preparations
for Leaving Moscow--Last News of Saveleff.
"Moscow, _30th September_, 1856.
"Dearest Mother,--We are delighted that we came back to Moscow, for we
have seen some magnificent sights, such as we are not likely to see
again; and, thanks to the Count's kindness, we saw everything to the
best advantage, which I will now try and describe to you as briefly as I
can. The very day we came here the Emperor arrived at his
boiled-crab-like palace of Petrofsky, in front of which his camp of
sixty thousand men is pitched. The 29th of August was fixed for his
entrance into the city. A long, somewhat winding street, with houses of
all heights and sizes, leads from the city gate to the Kremlin. Rows
above rows of benches were placed at every interval between the houses,
as also on their roofs, and in front of them, every bench being covered
with people in their best attire, while the sides of the street were
densely crowded with mujicks, both men and women, in their holiday
suits, the centre part being kept clear by lines of cavalry; gay
carpets, cloths, flags, and banners of every description hung out of all
the windows, adding to the brilliancy of the scene. We got first-rate
seats near the entrance to the Kremlin. The morning was rainy, but in
the forenoon the weather cleared, and ringing of bells and firing of big
guns, and talking and laughing, and hurrying of people to and fro to
their posts, and marching of infantry and cavalry, occupied the time
till four o'clock, when the Emperor entered the city gate; troops of
many Asiatic tribes, in various gorgeous costumes, and imperial guards,
and nobles of the realm, in magnificent uniforms, preceding him, while
he was followed by the members of his family and their wives in five
carriages--fine enough to make the Lord Mayor of London and all the
Sheriffs jealous.
"All the great people were accompanied by running footmen, lacqueys, and
others, and the whole procession was wound up with some fine squadrons
of cuirassiers. Priests in their robes, with their crosses and pictures
of saints, stood at all the churches, and at the doors of some the
Emperor dismounted and kissed them--not the priests, but the crosses and
pictures--as he and his Empress did also the relics and pictures of
saints of peculiar sanctity in the various cathedrals. And lastly, in
the cathedral of Saint Michael, they prostrated themselves before the
tombs of those of their ancestors who are there buried. Cousin Giles
said it struck him as setting somewhat of an example of idolatry to his
subjects; but I do not suppose that he troubled himself about any such
consideration. The universal custom of presenting bread and salt was
performed by the Archbishop of Moscow to the Emperor as he entered the
palace of the Kremlin, and here the ceremony of the day concluded. We
eagerly watched to see if our friend Saveleff could find an opportunity
of presenting his petition to the Emperor. Whenever the Czar stopped,
the crowd pressed forward, and, amid shouts and cries, took his hand,
and pressed it to their lips.
"`I see him! I see him!' cried Harry, as nodding plumes, and glittering
helmets, and rich turbans, and tall spears, and shining swords, and gay
banners were defiling through the gate of the Kremlin.
"We looked eagerly among the crowd, and then we saw a mujick working his
way to the front rank, with a paper held out in one hand above his head.
We could not hear, of course, what he said, but whatever was his
appeal, his brethren made way for him. We were certain he could be no
other than Saveleff. He had just reached the position he sought, when
the Emperor himself approached. The Emperor bowed and smiled, and held
out his hand to a number of mujicks, who were pressing forward to kiss
it. At that moment, Saveleff, with a few hurried words, thrust his
paper between the Emperor's fingers. We understand that he exclaimed,
`Oh, your Majesty, look at my document--life and death depends on it.
Grant my petition!' The Czar cast a look of surprise at the audacious
mujick, and, without saying a word, handed the paper to an officer near
him. But the result of all his toils, his sufferings, his anxieties--
ah, you will ask, what is that?--we cannot tell. The Count has done his
utmost to forward his object. His parents are still on their way to
Siberia, if they have survived the hardships they have endured. His
betrothed is still among the gipsies, and may any day be dragged back to
slavery. The poor fellow remains with us, and is unmolested, but he is
in low spirits, and hopeless of success. Still, he says that he would
gladly go through far greater hardships and troubles than he has endured
for the sake of the faith to which he holds. Cousin Giles would have
taken him with us to England, but he will not quit the country which
holds his betrothed, nor give up all prospects of rescuing his parents.
"I must, however, try to give you an idea of what took place during the
coronation festival. The next thing which took place was a grand parade
of all the troops in the camp, now increased to one hundred and twenty
thousand men. Some of the cavalry had a fine appearance, dressed in
Oriental costume. There were Circassians, or rather Lesghians, and
other tribes bordering on the Caucasus--some in chain armour, others in
white robes. There were Greeks and Albanians in their national costume,
ferocious Koords, and terrier-looking Cossacks, with long lances, on
shaggy little ponies, looking as if they would bite any one who came in
their way. All the great people were there. The finest thing was a
charge of twelve thousand dragoons, who literally made the ground
tremble under them. They afterwards galloped up to the Emperor, and,
drawing their swords simultaneously, with loud shouts, exclaimed--`We
wish your health, Czar!' and then, wheeling round, dashed off at full
speed.
"I must next tell you about the coronation itself. It took place in the
Church of the Assumption, before which a large court had been formed by
railing in several other churches, and covering them with galleries.
These were filled with all the great people of the nation and their
visitors. The arched roof of the church is supported by four massive
pillars, covered with gold; under them sat the Emperor and Empress,
surrounded by their Court. The Emperor took the crown, an immense one,
blazing with jewels, from the Metropolitan who held it, and with his own
hands placed it on his head. This he did to intimate that from no
earthly power, clerical or lay, did he receive his sovereignty. The
Empress then advanced, and kneeling before him, he touched her forehead
with the crown, and then replaced it on his own head. The
Empress-mother, who was the first to advance to congratulate her son,
burst into tears, it is said, while her children, forgetful of all rules
of etiquette, clung affectionately round him. The whole congregation
wept, overcome at the sight.
"That same night all Moscow was illuminated, and a truly fairy-like
spectacle it was. Every tower, minaret, cupola, dome, the front of its
vast palace, and all the walls of the Kremlin were a blaze of light; so
was the vast square with the arches which temporarily surround it, and
the superb opera-house at one end, all the palaces of the great people,
and the public buildings. You remember our description of the Cathedral
of Saint Basil, with its wondrous towers and domes, and its various
ins-and-outs? Every part of that bizarre building was clearly traced
with bright lamps, and the effect was curiously beautiful. We walked
about, and gazed and gazed with wonder and delight, till our eyes were
so dazzled that we could scarcely see our way home.
"After this there were grand galas at the opera, and balls at the
palace, and one at the English Ambassador's, where McAllister, Lord
Stafford's piper, figured as a very important personage. The people
also had their feast, the preparations for which we had seen; but they
rushed up to the tables, and made away with the food, either down their
throats or into their pockets, before the arrival of the Emperor and the
greater part of the intended spectators. They, however, behaved much
better at a ball which the Emperor gave them at the palace in the
Kremlin. Dance they could not, but the mujicks and their wives and
daughters walked about the vast halls, admiring the wonders they beheld,
and eating and drinking as much of the delicate viands prepared for them
as they could procure.
"Last night there was a grand display of fireworks, but somehow or other
they did not go off at the right time and place; however, I daresay that
the crowd were equally astonished and delighted as if each squib and
cracker had played its part properly. One thing I must say for the
Russians, that they are a very orderly, well-behaved people; and in all
the vast crowds we saw, the people appeared kind and good-natured to
each other in the extreme. There was no unnecessary pushing and
shoving, and none of that abusive language which is so disgusting in an
English crowd; on the contrary, every one appeared good-tempered and
happy.
"I really like the Russians in many respects. Their faults are rather
the consequence of bad government and a faulty religion, than such as
are inherent in their race. If a pure religion were introduced among
them generally, and their government were to become more and more
liberal, till they are capable of governing themselves, another century
would see a very great change in them for the better. At present a
large number of them are semi-barbarians, with the ignorance and vices
of barbarism; and although they may be easily governed under the present
despotic system, they are equally liable to be led into revolt by any
designing man who is bold enough to risk his life on the chance of
success. I give you Cousin Giles' opinion on the subject, which is of
more value than mine.
"I am sorry to say that in the capitals a number of people are found not
a little addicted to picking and stealing. Not that housebreakers or
footpads are to be found, but it is not safe to leave things about in
one's room. One day, while we were at dinner, I found that I had left
my pocket-handkerchief up-stairs, so I ran to get it. What was my
surprise to find the door open, which I felt certain I had locked, and
on looking in to observe a gentleman very composedly stowing away in a
towel some shirts and other clothes which had just come home from the
laundress.
"`Hollo, old fellow, what are you about?'
"`_Si chasse_--_si chasse_,' (presently--presently), he answered, with
the greatest coolness, as if he was employed in something he had been
ordered to do. They were some of the very few words of Russian I knew.
"`I'll not trouble you, my man. Just put those things down, and get out
of this as fast as you can,' I exclaimed, walking up to him. He tried
to grasp the things, and to make a bolt with them, but I was too quick
for him; and while I sung out at the top of my voice, he let the things
fall, and made a dart out of the room. I followed him as fast as I
could run, and had I not unfortunately slipped, I should have caught
him, and held him fast till my shouts brought the people from the
dining-room to my assistance. As it was, the fellow escaped, to my
great disappointment, though he took nothing with him. The Russian
thieves are also very expert at picking pockets, and at the time of the
coronation they had plenty of opportunities in exercising their
vocation. Harry and I lost our pocket-handkerchiefs one day, but after
that we followed Cousin Giles' advice, and fastened them into our
pockets. The Russians are great traders; they begin their mercantile
pursuits at a very early age. Little fellows, who would be playing at
marbles or hoop in England, if they were not at school, here manage
shops or stalls in the streets. They are as sharp, too, as any grown-up
men, and if they do not cheat others, they take very good care that they
are not cheated themselves. We have seen small urchins not more than
seven or eight years old with a store of wax-tapers or picture-books, or
quass, of which they pressed all passers-by with the greatest
pertinacity to become purchasers. We stopped several times with Mr
Allwick to talk to them, and we found that they knew not only all about
their own trade, but had already a good knowledge about trade in
general. Many of the richest shopkeepers in Moscow and Saint Petersburg
have sprung from this humble class of dealers.
"Many of the shopkeepers have a very Jewish look, and employ the very
mode which the Jews in London, in some of the back streets, do to induce
passers-by to purchase their wares. They stand in front of their shops,
and as soon as they see any one approaching, they step forward, uttering
praises of their goods, and, with hands stretched out, look as if they
would forcibly detain the stranger, and as if they would consider
themselves very ill-used should he not become a purchaser.
"The Russians are great eaters of raw vegetables, especially of onions
and cucumbers. They eat them pickled in salt, and most thoroughly
unwholesome they appeared. They drink also the juice of the cucumber,
mixed with water, which is called cucumber-water. It is said to form a
very cooling beverage in summer! But I suspect the water forms the best
part of the potation. They are very fond of all sorts of sour
vegetables. They have a species of apple, which they allow to freeze in
winter, in which state it is preserved, and though it has a very
withered appearance, it is really full of juice.
"Moscow is supplied with water by an aqueduct which reaches to about
three versts from the city. It is there forced by a steam-engine into a
basin at the top of a lofty tower in Garden Street, where pipes carry it
to the various reservoirs in different directions for the supply of the
houses. Over every spring in Russia, preserved for the use of man, is
placed the picture of a saint, who is supposed to have the special
charge of the water. Over this reservoir there is one of particular
sanctity, but I am not acquainted with his name. This tower, which is
called the Sukhareva Bashnia, is the most lofty in the city, and a view
is to be obtained from it still more interesting than that from Ivan
Veleki, because one sees, not only the surrounding city, but the
wonderful Kremlin itself. At the top of the tower the Russian eagle,
made of silver, expands its wings over a silver basin, and from this
silver basin radiate fifty pipes, each an inch in diameter, which carry
fifty streams for the supply of the inhabitants.
"One of the most curious ceremonies of which we heard in the Greek
Church is that of cursing the heretics. First, there is a grand mass,
and much singing and lighting of tapers, and then the chief priest, who
has always a powerful, deep voice, pronounces an awful curse on the
false Demetrius, Mazeppa, and several other noted worthies, long
departed from all terrestrial influence. Many people, and heretics of
all descriptions, are also cursed, and then the choir chants forth in
melodious tones the words _anafema, anafema_, repeated sometimes by all
the congregation with most startling effect. The Russians are, however,
more given to blessing than to cursing. The priests, at the same time,
consider themselves entitled to payment for their blessings. No true
believer is content unless all his possessions are especially blessed:
his house, his cattle, his horses, flocks; the fruits growing in his
garden; his corn-fields, his children; the well which supplies him with
water; indeed, all he possesses. He believes that nothing he undertakes
will prosper unless the priest has first blessed the implements he uses,
and his religious instructor takes no pains to undeceive him. One of
the most curious ceremonies is that of blessing the waters. It is
performed three times in the year; once in spring, once in midsummer,
and once on the ice in winter. The latter is the most curious. The
nearest large piece of water is selected--either a river, a lake, or a
pond. On the ice a large arbour, composed of birch trees, is formed to
represent a church, with a gallery in the form of an amphitheatre. In
the centre a square hole is broken, so that the water can be reached.
From the neighbouring church a procession of priests approaches with
pictures, and crosses, and flags, and tapers, and with loud chanting
enters the arbour. Here a service is performed, and as soon as it is
over they march forth again with very picturesque effect, and the cross
is dipped several times in the water. By this ceremony it is believed
the water is especially blessed, and made wholesome for man, beast,
bird, and fish. No sooner has it been performed than the multitude who
have been surrounding the spot rush eagerly forward with bottles, jugs,
pots, and pans, and fill their vessels, and also drink as much as they
can. Not only is the water itself blessed, but all the streams, and
wells, and fountains in the neighbourhood are equally benefited. It is
curious to see the way in which the people dabble in the water, throw it
over their persons, though it freezes as it falls, and drink of it till
they can drink no more; all this being done in the belief that the water
is holy, and that they will be especially benefited thereby. The
ceremony in summer is very similar, only the arbours are formed on the
banks of the river or lake, and people manage to drink still more
abundantly, with fewer ill effects. A still more interesting festival
is that of blessing the fruit, which takes place on the 6th of August.
It is held in the country, in front of one of the principal churches or
convents. People of all classes, rich and poor, high and low, assemble
from all quarters, far and near, in vehicles of every description. In
front of the church are long rows of fruit-sellers' booths to supply
those who have brought no fruit with them. High Mass is then performed
in the church, and as soon as it is concluded the priests come forth
with bowls of holy water, with which they march up and down among the
lines of people, drawn up in all directions, with fruits in their hands,
sprinkling the consecrated liquid on either side as they go. As soon as
this has been done, the people set to work and eat greedily of the
various fruits which have been sprinkled, which they have not before
ventured to touch, under the belief that till then they are unwholesome.
In the more northern districts the fruit is very often far from ripe,
but yet they eat away, under the belief that it can do them no harm.
They will even give small infants in arms large green apples to suck,
fancying that they cannot hurt them, poor little things. As, however, I
have seen nursemaids in England equally foolish, I will not blame the
ignorant Russian peasant. Cousin Giles says that the same sort of
ceremonies are performed in Roman Catholic countries, where horses and
cattle are blessed in due form by a plentiful sprinkling of holy water.
It would all appear very ridiculous to us, were it not sadly
blasphemous. To a stranger, one of the most curious ceremonies in the
Greek Church is that of baptism. The infant, soon after it is born, is
brought by its godfathers and godmothers to the church--neither of its
parents being present. The priest first asks if it will renounce the
devil and all his works; the sponsors answer for it, that it will. The
priest thereon commands the devil, who is supposed to have hitherto had
possession of it, to take his departure. The order is believed to be
instantly obeyed, and the priest consequently spits over his shoulder at
the devil, who is beating a hasty retreat. His example is followed by
all present, who spit with unfeigned satisfaction at the discomfited
Evil One. The whole party then walk in procession three times round the
font. At its conclusion the priest consecrates the water by putting it
into a metal cross, and then immerses in it the infant three times,
pronouncing at the end its baptismal name. As a visible sign that the
child is now a Christian, the priest suspends round its neck, by a black
string, a small metal cross, which it ever afterwards wears as an
amulet. I remember well hearing of such crosses being found on the
slain at the Alma and other battle-fields in the Crimea, but did not at
the time know their signification. Next the child is dressed, and
carried once more round the font with a procession of burning tapers,
which, symbolising the Holy Spirit, signify that the child has now
received that Spirit within it, of which it was before destitute.
Lastly, the infant's eyes, ears, mouth, hands, and feet are anointed
with holy oil, and pieces of hair are cut from its head, and rolled up
with wax into a ball, and thrown into the font. No Russian has more
than one Christian name. This custom arises from the belief that every
name has its representative among the angels in heaven, who have the
especial charge of all persons bearing that name; in return, it is
expected that the prayers of mortals should especially be addressed to
their guardian angels. Only one name is given, because it is said that
a person can have only one guardian angel; if he had two, it might be
doubtful which was to watch over him, and to which he should address his
prayers. Cousin Giles observes that, when once people depart from the
simple truths of Christianity, it is impossible to say what absurdities
they may believe, or of what follies they may be guilty. As the people
become enlightened, the priests of a false faith are compelled to refine
their system; at present, in Russia, nothing is too gross for the
credulity of the people to swallow.
"We attended mass the other day at the Uspensky Sabor (the Cathedral of
the Resurrection). It was a very gorgeous ceremony, although, as it
lasted three hours, it was very fatiguing; but we determined to stand it
out, and afterwards never to go to another. I can only attempt to give
an outline of the ceremonies. The church being crowded with people, a
priest came through one of the side doors of the screen, and in a
stentorian voice, with hand uplifted, announced that service was
beginning. Some ceremony then took place behind the screen. Soon
afterwards another priest entered, with two attendants, bearing over his
head a huge Bible with a richly ornamented cover. It was allowed just
to touch his forehead. Being placed on a desk in front of the chief
door in the screen, another priest in a very irreverential and hurried
manner read some chapters from it, the choir constantly repeating the
words, `_Gospodi poluomini_,' (the Lord have mercy on us). The effect
of these words, in a rich chant, soft, full, and swelling, is very
beautiful. They continually occur throughout the service. We could see
the high priest all the time through the open work of the chief door
moving about before the altar. At length a fine psalm was sung, the
chief door was thrown open, the high altar and its splendid decorations
were displayed, and from the side doors issued forth the whole troop of
officiating priests bearing the bread and wine for the sacrament,
preceded by one man with a lighted taper, and the high priest coming in
the rear with a silver chalice; the procession is closed by a priest
with a salver on his head. Again they all entered the sanctuary, the
bread and wine were placed on the altar, and the priest kneeling, what
is called transubstantiation is supposed to take place. While this act
is performing, all Turks, heretics, and infidels are commanded to leave
the church. Numerous prayers are then offered up for the Emperor, the
Imperial family, and for a variety of objects. The most impressive part
is when the high priest prays for a blessing on the bread and wine, and
shakes the bread into the chalice. Afterwards those who intend to
partake of the sacrament are invited to come forward, and the bread and
wine together are administered in a small silver spoon, the communicants
holding their hands on their breasts, and kneeling three times. We were
very much struck with the little the congregation had to do with the
service. They had no book, they did not join in the singing, and they
could scarcely have understood what the priest said who read from the
Bible. Their only business seemed to be to cross themselves and to bow,
touching the ground with their foreheads, during the whole three hours
the affair lasted. Still the churches fill, and the people fancy, I
suppose, that they derive some benefit from what takes place. The music
is certainly very fine; it is all vocal; there are no instruments, and
no organ; and as women are not allowed to sing in churches, boys are
trained to perform their parts.
"`Altogether,' Cousin Giles says, `there is very little difference in
the main features between the ceremonies of the Greek and Romish
Churches. Both are intended to attract the senses, to please the
vulgar, and to deceive the credulous, and neither can have any effect in
changing the heart.'
"But it is time that I should bring my long letter to a conclusion.
Much of the above information was given me by a German gentleman
speaking English whom we met at Chollet's table-d'hote. I have before
said that we like the Russians; I mean the peasantry. When I spoke of
the existence of thieves in Saint Petersburg or Moscow, I do not suppose
that there are more thieves in Saint Petersburg or Moscow than in any
other of the capitals of Europe. Many of the peasants are fine-looking
men, though generally, from bad feeding, they have not the stamina of
Englishmen. Of one thing I am certain, that if one Spaniard can lick
two Portuguese, and one Englishman can lick all three, one Englishman
can lick three Russians with a big boy to help them. Still I hope that
we shall not have to go to war with them again. Poor fellows! The
Russian soldiers had not a grain of spite or ill-feeling against us.
They were driven on to the attack, and worked up by all sorts of
falsehoods, and a plentiful administration of vodka, to commit the
atrocities of which some of them were guilty.
"We are preparing to leave Moscow. Cousin Giles and Harry have gone to
get the tiresome passport business arranged with Mr Allwick, and as I
have sprained my ankle, I remained to write to you. We shall be very
sorry to part with our interpreter; he has contributed very much to the
pleasure of our visit to this city. Through his means we have seen and
understood much more than we could otherwise possibly have done about
the place and the people. We have no satisfactory news about poor
Saveleffs affairs. The Count has promised to allow him to remain among
his people as long as he wishes, and to protect him to the utmost of his
power; but he owns that that power is likely to extend a very little
way. He says that he will spare no expense, if bribery is likely to
effect the object. He thinks, however, that if the true state of the
case could be laid before the Emperor, the poor fellow's cause might be
gained, but the difficulty is to let the Emperor know the truth. We
cannot help fancying that we saw poor Saveleffs old father and mother
among the exiles starting for Siberia. Poor fellow! It is very sad.
He does not despair, and yet he has very little hope of happiness in
this world. Even now, if the police find him out, he will not be
allowed to remain very long in quiet.
"To-morrow we are off by the railway for Saint Petersburg.
"Your affectionate son--
"Fred Markham."