Bird's-eye View of Saint Petersburg from the Tower of the Admiralty--
The Isaac Church--Politeness of a Russian Officer--The Hermitage
Palace--Portraits of the Czars--Magnificent Hall--Superb View from
it--Jewels--Relics of Peter the Great--The Winter and other Palaces--
Bridge of Boats--Exchange--Church of Peter Paul--Tombs of the Czars.
Cousin Giles and his young companions had climbed up to the summit of
the Admiralty tower on a fine bright morning, when they could enjoy the
strange scene which this aerial position presented to their eyes.
"Let us take it in properly, and map it down in our memory," said Cousin
Giles after they had looked round and round, then to a distance, and
down into the open spaces and streets below them, with their moving
crowd of men, and horses, and carriages, of high and low degree, dashing
and tearing here and there as if the lives of monarchs and the fate of
kingdoms depended on their speed. "First, look to the east; there we
have the rapid, clear Neva, flowing out of Lake Ladoga, which in our
mind's eye we can see in the distance, though it is too far off to be
seen in reality. Then, in the same direction, near the outskirts of the
city, the river branches off into several channels, making a delta like
that of the Nile, and forming a number of islands of various
dimensions--some so large that a considerable portion of the city to the
north of us stands on them, others containing only a few gardens and
villas. The country surrounding the city seems barren and desolate in
the extreme, either an arid steppe or a stagnant marsh telling of the
agues and fevers afflicting those dwelling near it. To the north,
however, not many versts from the city, rise the hills and woods, and
fields and orchards of Finland, inhabited by the finest peasantry of the
Russian empire. To the west appear the shining waters of the head of
the Gulf of Finland, with the fortifications of Cronstadt in the far
distance, and a fleet of men-of-war before it; while higher up is a
whole squadron of gun-boats, which were lately built and fitted out in a
great hurry to meet those England had prepared to send into these
waters. Across the head of the gulf, looking down on Cronstadt, peep
forth amid a mass of green foliage the golden spires and domes, and
white-walled palaces, and Swiss-looking villas of Peterhoff, beyond
which, and far away as the eye can reach to the southward, and very,
very much farther on, one great desolate steppe or plain, bearing for
miles and miles scarcely a tree higher than a gooseberry bush, or a hill
boasting a height of greater elevation than a molehill. Now let us
bring our eyes nearer to our feet, to the mouth of the river. We see it
crowded with steamers and every variety of craft of moderate size of all
nations, and yet we know that the greater proportion of vessels which
bade to the city do not come higher than Cronstadt. The large barges
and lighters which we see moving up and down the river convey their
cargoes to and from that place. High up the river, above the bridges,
is another collection of vessels, and several are to be seen moving up
and down the different channels; while the canals, which meander through
the city in various directions, are literally jammed up with barges,
chiefly unloading firewood. The canals pass down the middle of the
broad streets, many of which are fringed with trees. At the mouth of
the river, on the south side, is Mr Baird's iron factory, where
steam-engines and iron machines of all sorts are made; near it is his
private residence. He is now a Russian baron, and is much esteemed by
the Emperor. A little higher up is the new naval arsenal, with long
sheds, where gangs of workmen are employed in chains, and through which
runs a canal. Some men-of-war steamers are moored off it. Others are
seen in different parts of the river, their guns commanding the quays;
so that, should an emeute ever take place, the communication between the
various quarters of the city would speedily be cut off. Groups of
shipping are visible at different parts of the quays; but no ugly
warehouses or stores of any sort are in sight, and their cargoes are
quickly spirited away to other unaristocratical parts of the city. Here
the mansions of the noble and wealthy have taken possession of the whole
length of the quays. The first building of importance on the north
side, opposite Mr Baird's works, is the Corps of Mines. It is of great
extent, and contains a museum stored with models, illustrating every
branch of civil and military engineering, as well as some beautifully
executed models of various descriptions of mines. Then come in
succession, and nearly in the same line, the magnificent edifices
containing the Academy of Arts, the University, the Academy of Sciences,
the Corps of Cadets, and, lastly, the Exchange. Some of these buildings
cover as much ground as many of the largest squares in London. Above
the Exchange is Petersburg Island, which is covered with a strong
fortification, called the Citadel. It contains a church called Peter
Paul, built by Peter the Great, and which has a spire exactly like that
of the Admiralty. On the island is also the cottage which Peter the
Great inhabited while the foundations of his wondrous city were being
laid. Beyond it, to the north and west, can be discerned some of the
smaller channels of the silvery Neva, flowing among gardens and
orchards, and green waving woods, with villas of every description of
architecture, more suited apparently to the climate of the sunny south
than to the cold atmosphere of this bleak region. Between the base of
the building on which we stand and the northern portion of the city we
have described, runs the main channel of the river. It is crossed by
several broad bridges, resting on a chain of huge boats or barges, which
can be removed when the approach of winter gives signs that, by means of
the quick-forming ice, the inhabitants will be able to cross without
their aid.
"We will now turn and face to the south. To the right is the long line
of the English Quay, with its numerous handsome and substantial
mansions, which in any other city would be called palaces. Then comes
the great square or rather space below us, bordered by huge piles
containing the chief public offices in the empire. Standing amid them,
yet not pressed on too closely, rises the proud structure of the new
Church of Saint Isaac, with its four granite-columned porticoes. Then
radiating off directly before us are the three widest and longest
streets perhaps in Europe: first in magnificence comes the Neva
Perspective, and then comes Peas Street, and the Resurrection
Perspective; but running out of them are also streets of great width,
composed of houses of numerous storeys and undoubted pretensions to
grandeur. The Neva Perspective is the most interesting. On the right
side of it stands the Kazan Church, which it was intended should be like
Saint Peter's at Rome; but, except that it has a wide-spreading portico
with numerous columns, it is in no way to be compared to that
magnificent structure. On the same side is a building, or rather a
collection of buildings, which at a distance have no very imposing
appearance. This is the great market of Saint Petersburg, or the
Gostinnoi dvor. It consists of a series of arcades, in front of stores
of two or more storeys, forming the outside boundary of an extensive
region of squares, which have likewise arcades running round them, the
area being filled with garden produce and rough wares not liable to be
injured by weather. Here every article, either for use or consumption,
which the lower orders can possibly require, is to be found, from a hat
to a cucumber, or a pair of shoes to a leg of mutton; but, as our
friends were about to visit the place, it need not now be further
described.
"At the very end of the street could be seen the terminus of the Saint
Petersburg and Moscow railway, the iron road itself running far, far
away to the southward across the flat and marshy steppe. On either side
of this prince of streets, the Neva Prospect, and in many streets
branching from it, could be seen a number of lofty and magnificent
palaces with here and there golden-domed churches, and many public
buildings, convents, and monasteries, and wide walks fringed with trees,
and canals carrying produce from far-off countries into the very heart
of the city. Let us have one look more before we descend at Peter's
Statue, not bigger apparently than a child's toy, and the Alexander
Column, and the golden domes of the Isaac Church, and the huge Winter
Palace, and the Hermitage, and the Imperial Theatre, and the long line
of palaces facing the quays of the Neva beyond them; then we have to-day
witnessed a sight not easily forgotten.
"Saint Petersburg, as it stands on its millions of wooden piles, the
liquid, rapidly-flowing Neva, the moving, living crowd of uniform-clad
inhabitants--men, women, and children, coaches, droskies, and horses,
infantry and cavalry, Cossacks of the Don on their ragged ponies, and
skeleton-looking guards with their glittering halberds at every corner.
Those at home may gain a fair notion of the scene from Burford's
Panorama, but they will soon forget it, while we shall remember it all
our lives: there is nothing like the reality to impress it on our
minds." So said Cousin Giles as our friends began to descend into the
world below.
"We must now visit some of these places in detail," said Cousin Giles as
they stood in the square outside the Admiralty gates. "Where shall we
go first?"
"To the big new church!" exclaimed Harry. "I want to see if it is as
fine inside as it is out."
To the Isaac Church accordingly they steered their course. On their way
they encountered a party of British naval officers, whose ship was lying
at Cronstadt. Several of them were well-known to Cousin Giles, and they
gladly accepted his invitation to visit the church. When, however, they
got to the gate in the wooden paling which still surrounded it, the
porter signified to them that without a ticket they could not be
admitted. Even a silver rouble could not soften him. He looked at it
wistfully, but for some reason was afraid of accepting the bribe. Just
as they were going away in despair, a tall, gentleman-like officer
stepped through the gateway. He looked at them for an instant, and then
inquired in French what they wanted. Cousin Giles explained.
"Oh, I will soon arrange that, I doubt not," he replied, returning into
the enclosure. He quickly came back, and begged them to enter. "After
you have seen the church, if you will come to the Hermitage, I will be
there, and shall have great pleasure in showing you over it."
Cousin Giles and the commander of the English ship and the other
officers bowed and thanked him, and accepted his offer. He then left
them, and they mounted the long flight of steps which leads up to the
southern portico. It must be understood that there are three similar
porticoes, with lofty granite columns, constituting the chief beauty of
the exterior of the building. The roof is supported by massive columns:
they, and every part of the walls, are covered with the richest marbles
of every colour, highly polished. In the centre is a dome, near the
summit of which, as if it were watching over the worshippers below, is
seen a dove, floating apparently in air. The effect is good, whatever
may be thought of the taste which would allow so sacred an emblem to be
thus introduced. The great attractions of the church are a row of
malachite pillars on either side of the high altar. Their appearance is
very fine; the malachite is, however, only veneered on copper, of which
the pillars are composed. There are also numerous pictures of saints,
which at first sight appeared to be of the richest mosaic, like those of
Saint Peter's at Rome, but on examination they proved to be only on
canvas; perhaps they are placed there till the real mosaics are ready.
The three brass doors of the church, covered with figures in the deepest
relief, are very fine, as is also a large window of stained glass.
Cousin Giles observed, that the richness of the decorations put him in
mind of Saint Peter's at Rome; but, both in respect to size and elegance
of design, it is much inferior.
The party having satisfied their curiosity, set off across the square to
the Hermitage. Their new friend the colonel was at the door to receive
them, and, conducted by a guide in the imperial livery, they mounted a
superb flight of steps, which led them into a series of magnificent
rooms, the walls of which were covered with some of the finest pictures
of the great masters. In the centre of each of these rooms were
exquisitely-shaped vases of malachite and other valuable materials.
The colonel, in the politest manner, pointed out to the party the
pictures most worthy of admiration. Cousin Giles was particularly
struck by two holy families, by Raphael, painted at different periods of
his life, very different from each other, and yet both equally
beautiful.
There are a number of very large pictures in the halls, the favourite
subject of which is the retreat of the French from Russia, and the
burning of Moscow. This subject is treated in every possible manner.
There are also a number of large pictures of the battles in which the
Russians have been victorious. They are not fond of keeping up a
remembrance of their defeats. There was a good picture of the late
Emperor, with his haughty brow, fierce eyes, and determined lips, the
very impersonification of self-will and human pride, now brought down to
the very dust; but, haughty as was that brow, the expression of the
countenance gave no sign of talent or true genius. It was indeed
wanting. He had the sense to take advantage of the ideas of others, and
the determination to carry them into execution. The colonel stopped to
look at the picture, but there was no smile of affection on his
countenance. There were also full-length portraits of many Czars, and
among others of Paul, which had a rollicking, half-tipsy look about it,
very characteristic of the man. The crown was on one side, and the
buttons of the waistcoat unfastened, if not, indeed, buttoned awry.
Intoxication or insanity was clearly portrayed by the too faithful
artist. It was a way of speaking truth in which courtiers are not apt
to indulge.
The colonel led the party through a number of halls, each more vast and
more beautiful than the former. The walls of one were of white and
gold, of another blue and silver, and of a third of a pinkish hue; but
the most beautiful of all was the music hall. The pillars which
supported the roof were white twisted with gold--a most aerial flight of
steps leading to a gallery above, with a second row of pillars. It was
more like a scene described in Eastern romance than what one expects to
meet with in the solid reality of life. The windows of the hall looked
out on a fine view of the Neva, with the citadel before it. The colonel
caught the eyes of the British officers looking at it.
"Ah!" said he, taking the hands of the commander and pointing to the
fortress, "that is the place you would have had to take if you had come
here in the spring; but, believe me, my dear sir, I receive you much
more willingly in this friendly way than I should have done at the point
of the bayonet."
The colonel spoke in so frank and cordial a way, and with so much grace
in his manner, that he completely won the hearts of his guests. They
all warmly pressed him to come on board, their ship, promising to show
him everything about her. He replied that he would gladly have availed
himself of their offer, but that he was compelled to go to Moscow to
make preparations for the coronation.
Two fine old soldiers, tall and upright, with huge moustaches, and
breasts covered with decorations, stood guard at the entrance of the
treasury. It contained jewels of every description, and curious
productions of rare art, such as a prince in the _Arabian Nights_ might
have been told to bring from a far distant country before he could hope
to win the hand of some lovely princess. Among them was a clock under a
glass case, consisting of a golden tree, with a peacock, an owl, a cock,
a mouse, a stream of running water, and many other things. At each hour
the peacock unfolds his tail, the cock crows, the owl rolls his goggle
eyes, and the mouse runs out of its hole. But far more interesting than
all the crowns of gold, the robes of silk, and the precious gems, are
numerous articles manufactured by the great Peter, and the tools with
which he worked. Among others is the chair on which he sat--a very
rough affair, spy-glasses of huge dimensions, and walking-sticks in
numerable--some thin-made switches, others thick enough to knock down a
giant, with every variety of handle, ending with the old man's crutch, a
complete epitome of human life.
It would be impossible in our journal to mention all the magnificent
pictures collected from every part of Europe, and the vast numbers of
interesting curiosities.
This beautiful palace, as has been remarked, was built by Catherine,
that she might retire to it after the cares of state, and endeavour to
forget them among its varieties and objects of interest. That she
attained the ease and happiness she sought, is more than doubtful.
"Depend on it, my lads," observed Cousin Giles, "that powerful but bad
woman was far from happy amid all the luxury which wealth could give
her. Nothing but a good conscience, void of offence towards God and
man, can bring happiness, and that she had not got."
The Winter Palace is next to the Hermitage. Though much larger, it is
far less interesting, as the interior was burnt down in 1837, when many
fine paintings and articles of value were destroyed. It is said that in
the old palace there resided not less than six thousand persons, some
living in huts constructed on the roof, whence no one thought of
disturbing them. Some thousands no doubt reside also in the present
building.
That moon-stricken monarch, Paul, built a palace for himself, in the
hope that within its fortified walls he might be safe from the attacks
of his enemies. So eager was he to have it finished, that five thousand
men were employed on it daily. To dry the walls, iron plates were made
hot and fastened against them; but what is done in a hurry is generally
ill done, and such was the case in this instance: the cost was three
times greater than it need have been.
Scarcely had the unhappy Emperor inhabited his new abode three months,
when he fell, pierced by the daggers of assassins, in the centre of the
very fortress he had fancied would prove his security.
The Hermitage having been thoroughly lionised under the auspices of the
polite colonel, the party steered a course across the bridge of boats to
the Exchange, a large building with a fine portico and a flight of steps
facing the river, on the north side, at the eastern end of Vasili
Ostrof, and with a fine open space before it. It was presented by the
late Emperor to the mercantile community of Saint Petersburg, whom he
wished especially to conciliate. In front stand two granite columns,
decorated with the prows of ships cast in metal. On a close examination
of the building, our friends discovered that it was covered with stucco,
which in many places was already crumbling away, as is the case with
many other edifices of high and low degree in this rapidly constructed
city. Cousin Giles and his friends were hesitating about entering when
they were overtaken by Mr Henshaw.
"Come in," said he. "The merchants here are happy to see strangers;
they will not knock your hat over your eyes, as the frequenters of
Change Alley are wont to do to intruders."
They followed their friend, and found themselves in a vast hall full of
long blue or green-coated gentry, with flowing beards and low-crowned
hats, intermingled with others in modern European costume--some looking
round in expectation of a correspondent, others in earnest conversation
in knots of twos or threes, busily engaged in buying or selling, a word
deciding the fate of hundreds of fat oxen now feeding securely in their
native pastures, or of thousands of tall trees growing in the primeval
forest thousands of versts away. They were much struck by observing an
altar on one side of the entrance, with candles burning on it, and the
picture of a saint, black, as usual, and in a golden habit, before which
the native merchants bowed and crossed themselves as they passed onward
to transact their affairs. Here were collected representatives of all
nations, and from every part of Russia--a strange medley of
physiognomies, tongues, and costumes; but so habitual has become to them
a modulated tone of voice, that, in spite of the hundreds speaking at
once, a gentle murmur alone is heard through the hall.
Among the foreigners the Germans probably preponderate, but the English
hold a very high position: in no community abroad are British merchants
more deservedly respected than those engaged in the Russian trade.
Cousin Giles and his young companions made the acquaintance of several,
and found them most pleasing, gentlemanly men. Mr Henshaw took them to
see the portraits of the present and the late Emperor, hanging up in an
inner room of the building. The present Czar is a slighter and shorter
man than his father, and with a far milder expression of countenance.
The picture of Nicholas speaks of undaunted courage and determination,
and at the same time of a relentless and almost a ferocious disposition.
"I am glad he was not my master," exclaimed Harry; "how hard he would
have hit if he had begun to flog one!"
Leaving the Exchange, they returned to the south side, and then crossed
another long bridge of boats, and afterwards a smaller one, to the
Citadel. Here their object was to see the Church of Peter Paul, where
Peter the Great, and all his successors, including the late Emperor, lie
buried. After they had entered within the strongly fortified walls, an
avenue of birch trees took them up to the church, with its lofty gilt
spire. The richly painted roof is supported by massive square pillars,
covered with pictures of saints, as is the pulpit. The altar blazes
with gold and silver, and huge silver candlesticks. The faces and hands
of the saints are all black, and peep out of holes cut in sheets of gold
or silver maiked to represent their robes; thus the artist has very
little labour in producing a picture. The tombs of the Czars are
grouped on either side of the high altar. They are plain sarcophagi,
are usually covered with black velvet palls, very simple and
unostentatious. On the walls and pillars are suspended various trophies
taken in war from the enemies of Russia. Over the windows, as Harry
observed, were some "huge jolly cherubs--that is to say," he added, "fat
heads and nothing else to carry behind them; so it is no wonder their
cheeks get blown out."
"We have seen enough lions for one day," said Cousin Giles as they left
the fortress. "Fred will have work enough to write up his notes as it
is."
After dinner, Fred read out to Cousin Giles and his brother the remarks
he had made on the various scenes they had witnessed in their walks and
drives through the city. They will be found in the following chapter.