A HOSPITAL FOR THE BRUTE CREATION
The live boys did not care much for the buildings, though most of those of
a public character were architecturally very fine. Around a large open
space they found the Town Hall, the Mint, and all the great mercantile
establishments. At the time of the young people's visit, it was almost
entirely abandoned by those who had held possession of it during the day.
Business hours are from ten in the forenoon till four in the afternoon.
Before and after these hours the Fort, as the business section of the city
is called, is deserted. This quarter was formerly surrounded by walls or
ramparts, which have now been removed; but in its limits is concentrated
the great wealth of Bombay. There are no dwellings within this territory,
which is consecrated to trade and commerce; and both Europeans and natives
hasten at the early closing hour to their homes at Colaba, the Esplanade,
Mazagon, Malabar Hill, and Breach Candy, the latter on the seashore.
In front of the Grant buildings they found the Cotton-Green, deserted now,
though the stacks of bales were still there, with a few sheds and shanties.
A few half-naked coolies and policemen were loitering about the place; but
it is not convenient for a thief to carry off a bale of cotton on his back,
and a bullock cart in this locality would excite suspicion. In business
hours this is a busy place; and the Parsee and native merchants, robed in
loose white garments, not all of them indulging in the luxury of trousers,
reclining on the bales, or busy with customers, form a picturesque scene.
"I don't think this is the right time to explore this region," suggested
Scott. "We had better come down here when there is something going on."
"You are right, Scott," replied Louis; "and I dare say Miss Blanche has had
enough of the palanquin, or will have by the time we get back to the hotel,
for we are more than a mile from it."
"I don't think I like a palanquin as well as a carriage," replied the young
lady. "If you please, I should like to walk back."
She was promptly assisted to alight, and the palanquin bearers were paid so
liberally that they did not complain at being discharged so far from the
hotel. Sayad and Moro were sent ahead to lead the way, while the other two
walked behind. On their arrival at the Victoria, they found all the rest of
the tourists assembled in the parlor, to whom they gave an account of what
they had seen.
They went to the saloon in which dinner was served, closely followed
by their servants; and the scene there was decidedly unique to the
Americans, for there were as many servants as guests. The hotel furnishes
no attendants, and each visitor brings his own. But as soon as all were
seated, order came out of confusion, and the service proceeded. The dishes
were somewhat peculiar; but Sir Modava explained them to the commander and
Mrs. Belgrave, while Lord Tremlyn rendered a similar service to the
Woolridges and Louis, and Dr. Ferrolan to the professional gentlemen of the
company.
"I think you will find this fish very good," said his lordship, as the
second course came on. "It is the _bummaloti_, sometimes called the
Bombay duck, something like both the salmon and the trout. It is a
salt-water fish, abundant off this coast, where it is extensively taken,
salted, and dried, to be sent to all parts of India."
"It is elegant," said Mr. Woolridge, who was an epicure.
The roast beef and chickens were very good, and the fruit was highly
appreciated. The dinner finished, the party returned to the sitting-room,
and found themselves very nearly alone. At the suggestion of Captain
Ringgold, Lord Tremlyn consented to give the travellers some information in
regard to the city of Bombay.
"When I consider what a vast extent of territory you are to explore in
India," the speaker began, "I realize that not much of your time must be
taken up in long discourses, and especially not in lengthy introductions.
Bombay, the western province of the peninsula, includes twenty-four British
districts and nineteen native states, the latter governed wholly or in part
by Hindu rulers. This word Hindu, I repeat, properly applies to only a
portion of this country, but has come into use as a name for the entire
region.
"This is the Bombay Presidency, with a governor appointed by the crown, a
Legislative Council, a mixed garrison of English and native soldiers, under
a local commander-in-chief. That is all I shall say of the presidency,
which is one of three in India.
"The city of Bombay occupies the south end of the island of the same name,
and is one of a group of several, of which Salsette is the largest, with
which Bombay Island, eleven miles in length, is connected by causeways,
over which the railway passes. The business part is at the Fort, where we
landed, and the bazaars extend from that in the direction of Mazagon, which
lies to the north and east of it.
"You will find here many public buildings and commercial structures which
compare favorably with similar edifices in any city of the world; and we
shall see them to-morrow forenoon. The Princess Dock, where the great
steamship lines land their merchandise, cost a million sterling. Three or
four miles off this dock, to the eastward, you saw a couple of islands, the
farther one of which is Elephanta, with its wonderful cave, which you will
visit.
"The western terminus of the Great Indian Peninsula Railway is here, and
with its connections it extends all over India. This is the first port
usually reached by vessels from Europe, though Kurrachee is nearer. It is
the great mail port; and I have seen landed at Dover thirty tons of
post-bags, sent from here by Suez and through Europe by the Orient Express.
"Bombay now exceeds Calcutta in the extent of its commerce. The principal
exports are cotton, wheat, shawls, opium, coffee, pepper, ivory, and gums;
and the chief imports are the manufactured goods of England, metals, wine,
beer, tea, and silks. The prominent industries of the city and its vicinity
are dyeing, tanning, and metal working. It has sixty large steam-mills. Of
the vast population, now approaching a million, not more than 13,000 are
British-born. The water here is excellent, for it is brought from a lake
fifteen miles north of us.
"Goa is still a Portuguese possession, nearly three hundred miles down the
coast; and a year before they captured it they took possession of this
island, in 1509. They held it till 1661, when it was ceded to England as a
part of the dowry of the Infanta Catharine, who became queen of Charles II.
That is all I need say at present."
The next morning after breakfast the carriages bespoken were at the door.
The party seated themselves in the vehicles, which were English, and quite
commodious, according to their own fancies; and it need only be said that
the commander was in the one with Mrs. Belgrave, and Louis with Miss
Blanche. The viscount directed the driver of his carriage to pass through
Cruikshank Road to the Parsees' Bazaar, which is just north of the Fort.
Most of the Parsees and Bhorahs who do business here reside in the same
section; and there were many fine houses there, though they are abundantly
able to live at Breach Candy and Malabar Hill, the abode of the
_élite_. The vehicles stopped at an attractive point, and the party
alighted. They went into several shops, and were treated with the utmost
politeness and attention.
In one of them they were invited into a small rear saloon, magnificently
furnished, where they were presented by Lord Tremlyn to a Parsee gentleman.
He was dignity and grace united. He was dressed in white throughout, except
his cap, or turban, which was of darker material. He wore trousers, with
white socks and slippers. His shirt appeared to be outside of his trousers,
like the Russians, with a sort of vest over it. He wore a long coat, shaped
like a dressing-gown, reaching nearly to the floor.
He was kind enough to call in his wife and little daughter. Both of them
had pleasing faces. The lady wore a rich dress and a magnificent shawl,
with a head-dress of gold and diamonds. The little girl had on bagging
trousers like the Turkish women, and a heavily embroidered tunic, and both
of them wore Indian slippers, with the toes turned up.
The ladies of the party were presented to the lady. She spoke English
correctly and fluently, and the interview between them was exceedingly
interesting to both sides. The Americans did not meddle with forbidden
topics, as they had been cautioned not to do, such as their religion and
burial rites; but they could not help thinking of this elegant lady's
comely form being torn to pieces by the crows and vultures in the Tower of
Silence with absolute horror.
From the Bazaar the carriages proceeded through the Fort, and the public
buildings were pointed out to them. At the Cotton-Green they got out; for
the place was now alive with Parsees and other merchants, with plenty of
coolies, some of whom were moving bales, and others sorting cotton. From
this locality they rode through Colaba, and saw some native dwellings, as
well as some fine European residences, with beautiful gardens around them.
They alighted near the most southern point, and inspected a "bungalow,"
which they were politely invited to enter. It was fitted up with a view to
comfort rather than elegance, and the interior appeared as though it might
be delightfully cool in the heat of summer.
"What do you call that house?" asked Mrs. Belgrave, as they returned to the
road, which they call them all over the city, and not streets.
"A bungalow," replied Sir Modava.
"Why do you call it so?"
"That reminds me of the German," interposed Captain Ringgold, laughing
heartily. "'Do you know vot vas der reason vy ve calls our boy Hans?'"
"Well, what was the reason, Captain?" inquired the lady seriously.
"'Der reason vy ve calls our boy Hans is, dot is his name.'"
"Well, that is precisely why we call that house a bungalow," added Sir
Modava. "It is the house usually occupied by Europeans here. They are one
story high, with a broad veranda, like the one we have just visited. Almost
always they have a pyramidal roof, generally thatched, but rarely slated or
tiled. When the body is of brick or stone, they call them _pucka_
houses. Doubtless you wished to know the origin of the word, Mrs.
Belgrave."
"That was just what I wished to know."
"They were probably first called Bengalese houses, and the present name was
corrupted out of the adjective."
The party collected together on the seashore, for the viscount appeared to
have something to say. The captain of the Guardian-Mother called the
attention of the company to the shape of the small bay before them, which
looked exactly like a lobster's big claw.
"The point where we are is Cape Colaba, and the small point is Cape
Malabar," said Lord Tremlyn. "I think we have seen all our time permits,
and now we will drive back through the town and the Esplanade. Perhaps you
have not yet heard of the Jains. They are a religious sect, and are more
influential and intelligent than most of the Hindus. More than any other
sect they hold the lower animals in the highest regard, amounting to a
strange sort of tenderness.
"They believe that man should not injure any animal; and more than this,
that human beings are bound to protect the lives and minister to the ills
of all creatures, even those the most despised. When, therefore, the pious
Jain comes upon a wounded creature of the lower order, he stops to attend
to its needs, and even takes it into his house to be healed. To forward
this charity, the wealthy of this sect have contributed money for the
foundation and endowment of hospitals for the care of sick and wounded
animals, and even of those permanently disabled."
"What a beautiful idea, if it is heathen!" exclaimed Mrs. Belgrave.
"We will now drive to one of these hospitals. We have to pass through the
Esplanade again to reach the Black Town, as it is called, where most of the
natives reside; but we will go by a different road."
In about half an hour the carriages passed through the densely populated
region of the Hindus, and stopped at the hospital. The party alighted in a
large court, surrounded by sheds, in which are a number of bullocks, some
of them with their eyes bandaged, others lame, or otherwise in a helpless
condition. They were all stretched out on clean straw. Some of the
attendants were rubbing them; others were bringing food and drink to them.
Passing into a smaller court, they found it contained dogs and cats in the
same unfortunate and suffering condition.
"It would be a mercy to kill them, and thus put them out of misery," said
Dr. Hawkes to the native officer with him.
"Do you serve your sick and disabled in that way?" asked the official.
He could not answer this appeal for the want of time, and they passed into
a place for birds. Venerable crows, vultures, buzzards, and other bipeds,
most of them with their plumage gone, pass the remainder of their lives in
peace in this curious retreat. At the end of the enclosure a heron proudly
strutted about with a wooden leg, among lame hens and blind geese and
ducks. Rats, mice, sparrows, and jackals have an asylum in the Jain
hospital.
"I should like to have some of our people take a lesson from this
institution," said Mrs. Woolridge as they left the place.
The carriages then conveyed them to a Hindu temple.