I found all sorts of treasure-trove from vessels that had been wrecked
on Suwarrow. Piled up in one end of the house are ship's blocks, oakum,
strange, antiquated firearms, iron parts of a ship, and the two stairs
of her companionway. There is a single oar, and a tool-chest with rope
handles at either end, the word SWEDEN on it, and the top covered
with canvas; an iron gate, two steering-wheels, a winch, a copper
blubber dipper green with verdigris, the handle of wood and iron; two
life-preservers, one marked _Levi Stevens_; small, glass-bottomed boxes
for searching the bottom of the sea, wheels, hatch-covers, and I know
not what. At the other end of the room a ladder leads up to a loft,
where sieves for guano, a harpoon, a double-handed saw, and iron shell
baskets are heaped together. Two immense iron tanks, painted red, stand
at either side of the seaward doors.
Next to this house came the "office," with a little cubby partitioned
off one side. I looked through the pigeonholes of the cubby and found a
packet of thin sheets of tortoise-shell and a large parcel of a native
woman's hair. Mildewed maps hang on the walls, the ceiling is adorned
with ten rusty cutlasses, old ledgers lie about, and a bag of cotton
lies on the floor as though it had just been dropped there. On one of
the sides of the room is a broad, white band with painted black letters
"PEERLESS wrecked on Suwarrow Island." In one corner stands a box of
bits of old iron which are put in with cocoanuts when they are planted.
It is called "cocoanut manure." This reminds me that the Paumotuans
plant with their cocoanuts a rusty nail and a ship's biscuit. In the
outer room sixteen decaying muskets are ranged in a rack. Shelves are
filled with all sorts of tools, nails, axes, bush knives, tins of
sardines and salmon, and a quantity of mouldy shoes in children's sizes
only; among the shoes were a toy chest of drawers and a box of moulting
feathers.
Passing another building containing miscellaneous wreckage, blue and
white china among the rest, I came to the manager's house, a large,
wooden-floored structure with a thatched roof. Here I found a native
man at work on accounts, his old dog at his feet, which were wrapped up
in the Union Jack to keep them warm. This room was evidently designed
by a sailor and gave one quite the feeling of being on board ship.
Instead of windows there were port-holes, three on either side, with
a couple flanking the front door. Covers, painted black to imitate
iron, could be screwed over the ports like deadlights on shipboard. The
doors, one in either end, opened in two parts, being divided across
the middle. The furniture consisted of two bedsteads of native wood
with cocoa sennit laced across them to serve for mattresses. A couple
of bunches of bananas hung from the roof. Against the wall hung the
death certificate of the dead man, which, in such cases, must be the
only proof that the death was due to natural causes, and not a crime. I
copied the certificate.
Samuli lee aho 2 ....
he motu nai mate he malu va he tau
fro ia gauali 2 1889 Ka Papu
Ko Maro tolu ne ha nie ne tamu
Ka Patiti ma miti San ma
J ketiti ma Paemani Koe tau wine
Kwenia kia mounina kelie iki lagi ke
he tan ban nei kua hobooko kiai a tautala
June ati 2--1890
Next comes "government house," as Louis calls it, neatly thatched, the
floors of wood, and separated into two rooms by panelled wood from a
wreck; the rooms are connected by a wide, open doorway, the arched
top and sides edged with brass. In one room is a table with a Bible
and other books lying on it, a home-made sofa covered with a mat; two
corner shelves, spread with newspapers cut in points where they hang
over, are filled with miscellaneous books; chests, a compass-box,
and a water-monkey with its neck gone stand about. On the walls are
some rather pretty engravings, a few framed and one glazed. On each
side of the house are small, square windows protected by solid wooden
shutters that drop down when not upheld by a stick. The front and
back doors are strong and divided across the middle. In the back room
are two home-made bedsteads, sennit crossed, one with a mosquito
curtain. Chests are on the floor, mats lie about, and a roll of fine
mats is lashed to the ceiling. In front of the house, the gable end,
are two large, rusty, iron boilers such as are used on ships. Inside
the compound, which is neatly fenced with whitewashed palings, are
two small, mounted cannon with a couple of vi-trees growing beside
them. Returning to what I call the church, I passed a tool house, a
large room filled with rusting tools. Two small casks of fresh water
lie waiting there in case a boat should come ashore in distress for
water. There is also an immense cistern sunk in the ground, filled
with rain-water caught on the iron roofs, but that, I believe, is kept
locked.
[Illustration: _View of deserted buildings on Suwarrow Island. The man
seated in the centre is Tin Jack_]
Leaving the dog that boarded us at Auckland, and some cats, we departed
from the most romantic island in the world, regretting that to us its
history must always remain a mystery unsolved.
_16th._--Arrived at Danger Island. Boats put out to inform Mr.
Henderson that, despite all their promises when we were here before,
there is no copra ready, it being the season when the natives collect
subscriptions for the church and hold the "Me" meeting. "No tobacco,"
says Mr. Henderson with malicious glee as he orders the people off the
ship. To my joy he says to the captain: "Can you make Nassau by night!"
The captain can; and we arrive the same night and lie off and on until
morning. We give Nassau a blue light, and the inhabitants respond with
a bonfire, keeping it blazing all night, apparently afraid if they let
it go out we may steam away.
_17th._--Nassau is a small, high-low island enclosing a lagoon which
has now dwindled to a pond. It is triangular in shape and roughly
measures five miles round. We could see that the ground rose up from
the beach at a considerable slope, and between the ti-trees I could
make out that grass was growing. With a glass I could distinguish a
breadfruit tree. Nassau has no anchorage and the landing was thought to
be too dangerous for me to attempt, so, to my great disappointment, the
men went without me; from the description they gave when they returned,
and from the outside view, it must be the loveliest of all the high-low
islands. There are many pigs and fowls, and all the high-island fruits
flourish exceedingly; turtle abound, both the green turtle beloved of
aldermen and the turtle that produces the shell of commerce. The owner
of the island had not visited the place for two years, so the few
people living there felt as though they had been marooned. They sent
two pigs on board, and offered Mr. Hird a large piece of tortoise-shell
which he refused because of its value. There were some forty boxes of
copra ready for sale, but, as the sea was high and the landing bad, Mr.
Hird did not care to take it. Mr. Henderson, however, gave them what
"trade" they wanted, some fifteen dollars' worth, as a present.
When Louis came back he gave me the following account of his visit,
starting from the very beginning:
"First thing in the morning we saw the whole population gathered on the
beach. As we came nearer in and lowered a boat it was a strange thing
to see the two women dancing like jumping-jacks for joy. All three men
came down to the edge of the reef. H. signed to them from the bridge
to jump in, and swim, which two of them, Joe and Jim, did, the boat
meeting them half way. We could see them scramble in solemnly and shake
hands with Johnny, who was at the steer oar, and sit down. They had a
good many old friends on board, Joe especially, and it was a treat to
see the absurd creature dance up to them for all the world like a clown
in a pantomime. A little later, seeing Lloyd come out from under a
blanket where he had been changing plates in the camera, he made us all
nearly die laughing with his pantomime of terror. He called everybody
'old man'; and was always either laughing himself or the cause of
laughter in others. He said they had no fish; 'got no canoe,' he said,
'why not make one,' asked one of us; 'Too much wo'k!' cried Joe with
infinite gusto. He is very strong, and in reality most industrious,
only he is simply marooned and means to do nothing needless. After
breakfast we go ashore. The third man and a dog met us on the reef; and
singular thing, the dog is afraid of us. At the house we are introduced
to Mrs. Joe, Mrs. Jim and the five children, the whole party like
crazy folk, dancing and clapping their hands and laughing for mere
excitement. On into the island, a garden-like place, with limes,
bananas, and figs growing, and the ground in many places carpeted with
turf. Not in all, however, and as I had bare feet, and the morning was
hot, I presently turned back and arrived alone at the settlement. Mrs.
Joe was out waiting for me with a green cocoanut; while I was drinking
she tried to abstract my ring. Failing in this she led me into a shed
where Mrs. Jim was, piled up pillows at my back, supported me in her
arms and proceeded to feed me like an infant with cocoanut pudding.
Mrs. Jim, meanwhile, patted and smoothed me, and both at the pitch of
their excited voices plied me with questions as to my age, country,
family, wife and business. When they heard my wife was on board, they
cried out with regret that she had not come; and Mrs. Joe intimated
that she was dying to go on board to see her but lacked clothes. (Both
were quite well dressed,) Mrs. Joe a comely fellow, in blue, Mrs. Jim
in red; they began at once to build up a heap of presents for the
_fafine_ (lady). In the meanwhile, or concurrently, they were all
through my pockets and robbed me of all I possessed; all my money,
tobacco, matches, and my pocket handkerchief; some capsules I saved,
telling them they contained poison, and (more fortunate than the rest)
my cap. They were perfectly good natured when refused anything, but
returned again to the assault like flies. Mrs. Jim offered to give
me her baby in exchange for Lloyd, which I accepted. When the party
arrived they were all subjected to similar pillage; though, being so
many, scarcely to the same endearments. (I was simply petted, smoothed,
caressed, and fed like a pet animal.) The scene was one of the wildest
excitement and I am sure they all had headaches. All came down to the
reef to see us off; Joe and Jim were to take us out; the ladies stood
a little back up to their knees, and when the boat was launched, I saw
Mrs. Joe make a sudden plunge under her skirts, and next moment her
gaudy _lava-lava_ was flying in the air for a signal of farewell. When
a native woman dons a civilised garment she still retains her native
garment, the _lava-lava_ twisted round her body. Once we were clear of
the breakers under the able pilotage of Joe, 'this is very beastiness'
said he severely, to one of our black boys who volunteered advice. Jim
and he stood upon the thwarts, 'good-bye, old man,' heels up, head
down, and next moment they were pushing for the shore."
[Illustration: _The settlement on Nassau Island_]
_19th._--Quiros (the Jennings) in the morning. After Nassau it seems
commonplace and tamely prosperous. We walked across to the lagoon which
is very large and only slightly brackish. Lloyd and Tin Jack took a
swim, and I went back to the women. After drinking many cocoanuts we
returned to the ship.
_20th._--Mrs. Jennings and her sister-in-law, with a singing boat's
crew Samoan fashion, visited us. Unfortunately, one of the ladies
became seasick, which cut their visit short.
_21st._--Fakaafo, of the Tokalau group. Louis and I went on shore
very early in the morning. There was a big swell and all our boatmen
had different views at the same moment, the consequence being that we
broached to and were nearly swamped. I got drenched from head to foot
and felt very cold. We walked about the village and were taken to the
house of the King. The Queen spread a mat on the ground for us and we
sat down beside her; she was holding a precocious little baby in her
arms, her grandchild, I presume, for she looked quite an old woman. The
King came to the opening of the hut and, thrusting out his head and
shoulders, shook hands with us and tried to converse. Cocoanuts were
offered us, but I felt too chilly for that refreshment. It seemed a
languid place; the very children soon tired of following us.
[Illustration: _Missionary from a civilized island, and some of her
converts_]
As I felt symptoms of rheumatism from the wetting I had got, I hunted
up the trader, a pallid Portuguese, and asked if his wife could lend me
a gown. He said if we crossed the island we would find a board house,
belonging to him, where his wife would give me a native dress. As we
drew near the place several handsome, smiling women joined us; we all
sat down on the veranda and waited for the trader, who was not far
behind us, and I was soon clad in comfortable dry clothes. We refused
cocoanuts but accepted brandy and water. I gave the trader's wife the
wreath from my head and a gold ring, after which we came back to the
ship, very nearly upsetting our boat in the surf. I had with me a
number of plain gold wedding rings; I always wore a few that I might
take them from my own hand to offer as presents.
In the afternoon the trader's wife sent me a present of a hat. The
trader used the most puzzling English possible; in passing Lloyd's room
he caught sight of a guitar. "Who that music?" he asked. When told, he
asked to have the guitar put in his hands and demanded that Lloyd be
sent for. In the meantime he examined the instrument and found two
broken strings. When Lloyd came the trader said he wanted two fine
guitar strings. Not having too many, Lloyd was loath to part with the
strings, but the man was so bent on having them that the box of strings
was sent for. On Lloyd asking the man about his own guitar, to our
surprise he said he had none at all, and yet he went on choosing out
strings with the utmost excitement. "Really," said Lloyd, "I can't let
you have _all_ those; I will give you this lot but no more; and I don't
see what you want with them if you have no guitar"; apparently, he
wanted them to "play with." Then it occurred to us that he might have
some other sort of instrument on which guitar strings could be used;
but no, he said he had no sort of instrument whatever. At last, after
great perplexity and wild endeavours to find out what he would be at,
Lloyd suddenly, as if by inspiration, asked: "Do you want to buy _this_
guitar?" That was the mystery. As we had only one guitar we could not
give it to him, so the poor fellow sadly returned both strings and
instrument.
_22d._--We celebrated the anniversary of our marriage[8] in front of
the trade room. Champagne was set to cool in wet towels, and at about
four we gathered together at the appointed place, each person to do
what he could for the amusement of the others. Tin Jack gave a reading
from Shakespeare, standing in a pulpit that was part of our cargo. Mr.
Hird sang "Afton Water" charmingly with much grace and feeling. Lloyd
sang, and Louis, taking what he saw before him as a text (it was an
advertisement of St. Jacob's oil), mounted the pulpit and delivered a
sermon.
[8] We forgot it on the nineteenth, which was the real anniversary,
but thought there would be no harm in a belated celebration.
Sight land, Atafu, where I hope to get Tokalau buckets, which are very
useful in place of portmanteaus.
_23d._--Mr. Henderson went ashore very early this morning, at Atafu.
He boasts that he ate three chicken legs as well as half a breast and
quantities of taro. As I have a little rheumatism from wearing my wet
clothes so long at Fakaafo, and it rains, I decided to stay on board
and take a dose of salicylate. Later the sun comes out; my rheumatism
flies before the salicylate, but too late; Louis has gone in the boat
and there is no other for me. I spend a dreary time watching the
people with an opera-glass. The wind occasionally brings the sound of
singing to my ears. Then the opera-glass gives me a headache, and I try
reading, first "Olla Podrida," which I cannot manage, and afterward
the South Pacific Directory, with which I succeed better. The boat
comes back at dinner time, everybody talking at once about the curious
experiences they have had.
_24th._--To my regret I did not feel well enough to go on shore. A
trader, the brother of the man who wished to buy the guitar, told me
his wife was coming to see me and introduced his son, a fine, little,
brown fellow of about eleven. Mr. Hird informed me that he is quite a
travelled youth. He, himself, told me he had been to Sydney, and when I
asked, "To San Francisco?" he replied: "No, but I have been to Frisco."
This child was on board a schooner when she was nearly destroyed by
fire, and also when she was in imminent danger of being shipwrecked.
The fire was an incendiary act. One of the sailors had several times
been very impudent to the captain of the schooner and was regarded as a
dangerous character. He, one day, in a fit of rage, attacked the cook
with a knife and nearly murdered him. The captain, who seemed a pitiful
fellow, was frightened at the thought of putting the man in irons
and bungled to such an extent with the handcuffs that the culprit,
himself, obligingly put them on. The supercargo asked that the culprit
be confined in the cabin next his, but the captain was alarmed at the
idea of having him so near. It was not long before he managed to get
loose, set the ship on fire, and jump overboard. A few hours after the
fire they were nearly driven on a rock before a heavy squall. When
they were so close that they could almost have jumped on the rock, the
vessel stopped dead and remained perfectly quiet. The rock had taken
the wind out of her sails, and the backwash held them off.
By and by the trader's wife and her friend, a handsome woman with a
haughty, high-bred expression, came on board. With a simplicity that
was almost cynical, the trader explained that at one time there had
been a great many German sailors about the islands, so, as his wife
had yellow hair, he just took it for granted that she was a German
half-caste. She certainly did look very like a sentimental German
governess, with her yellow hair and blinking eyes, but I perceived at
once that whatever else she might be, she was certainly an albino. She
brought me a basket and a small Tokalau bucket. In return I gave her
a gold ring which she replaced with three tortoise-shell rings and a
thicker one ingeniously tied in a true-lovers' knot. I gave the friend
a wreath and received a hat as an exchange present. These people are
desperate flatterers; we call this "The Isle of Flatterers." A native
met Mr. Henderson in Louis's hearing. "You _handsome_ man!" he cried,
his voice thrilling with emotion as he eagerly studied Mr. Henderson's
face. "You _good_ woman!" said Mrs. Trader to me continually, her
eyes melting into mine with admiration and affection as she tenderly
embraced me. I asked for a lock of her beautiful hair, which, after
asking permission of her husband, she gave me; I pinned it in my diary
and she wrote under it, "_Fani mai feleni_" (Fanny, my friend) and
her own name, "Amalaisa"; then she fanned me, and caressed me, and
flattered me, and finally, getting hold of my photograph, pressed it
to her bosom and face, saying: "All same you." I wonder if they really
do "rub noses" anywhere! All I have seen is a pressing together of
the two faces with a slight inspiration through the nostrils. While I
was sitting with Amalaisa and her friend, holding a hand of each, I
became aware that a very ragged but superior-looking young native man
had joined our party. "That boy, King," whispered Amalaisa, so I shook
hands with his majesty and called Louis to be introduced. The last
words of royalty were "You _good_ woman," delivered in most seductive
tones.
Most of these natives are suffering from a skin disease which covers
them with whitish scales and is contagious. I trust we have not all
caught it. The scaliest boy in the island has been walking about all
day with his arm round Louis's waist, patting and smoothing down his
hands with a purring: "You good _papalagi_" (foreigner).
When it came time to part Amalaisa gave me another hat and put more
sentimental expression into her _tofa_ (farewell) than one would think
possible. We shook hands, Amalaisa suddenly kissed me and was gone in a
flash.
Louis has written here the following account of his adventures in
Atafu: "Immediately on landing I was surrounded by boys more or
less scaly; the little girls fled before us in a squadron, looking
coquettishly back; if they came too near the boys cast handfuls of
stones upon the ground by way of a hint. 'You Peletania?' (British)
they asked, one after another and again and again, always receiving my
affirmative with '_Peletania--Aloha!_' taken in an indrawn breath. One
boy walked all the way, caressing me. 'You good _papalagi_,' he cried
at intervals. I suppose I had fifty of our escort. Presently we found
some twelve stalwart dames sitting on a wall. They made me sit by them,
sent for cocoanuts, caressed me with the most extraordinary fervour
of admiration, and breathed, from time to time, in an emotional
chorus: '_Peletania--Aloha!_' Although not accustomed to the offer of
gallantry based upon political considerations, I suspected something
was intended; and presently one of the boys was called by the ladies
and stood forth as an interpreter. 'All these girls he laugh at you'
(these ladies smile upon you is what he meant). 'You flatter me,' said
I. The disappointment caused by this miscarriage was inconceivable. A
little later one of the boys asked me: 'You want wife?' 'I got wife
on board,' I said. 'Wife on board,' cried he with unmistakable scorn,
'no good!' The newcomers laid traps for me as to my nativity. I could
hear them asking and hearing what I claimed to be; and then they would
come up and ask in a fine, offhand manner: 'You Melican?' (American).
Certainly we have no possession more loyal than Atafu. Another specimen
of Atafu English (they all speak some) is this: I had given a boy a
stick of tobacco; another asked for one. 'No,' I said, 'all done.' 'Eet
ees feenished,' said the boy who had the stick; but the boy who had it
not regarded me with a playful smile. 'You go hell! no done.'
"I saw the cure for scaly itch, invented by old Jennings of Olesenga--a
barrel sunk in the earth where they are smoked with sulphur. The girl
who was undergoing treatment was the most European little soul--skin of
a fair brown, eyes a light hazel, hair golden chestnut. Strange that
folk of a low island should so incline to fairness. Amalaisa first
claimed me as '_mai feleni_'; hearing of my wife, she transferred her
allegiance and began to write her love-letters; the factitious nature
of this sentiment (_me judice_) didn't prevent its being an immense
success."