THE SANTA ANITA _RANCHO_
1875
Until near the end of the seventies, there was very little done toward
the laying of sewers, although the reader will remember that a private
conveyor connected the Bella Union with the _zanja_ running through
Mellus's Row. Los Angeles Street from First to Second, in 1873, had
one of brick and wood; and in 1875, a brick sewer was built from the
corner of Main and Arcadia streets down to Winston and thence to Los
Angeles Street. It must have been in the early seventies that a wooden
sewer was constructed on Commercial Street from Los Angeles to
Alameda, and another on New High Street for about one block. In 1879,
one of brick was laid from Los Angeles and Commercial as far north as
Arcadia, and connecting with the Main Street sewer. At about the same
time, vitrified clay was used on a portion of Temple Street. My
impression is that there was no _cloaca_ laid on Spring Street until
after 1880, while it was still later that Fort, Hill and Olive streets
were served. As late as 1887, Hope Street had no sewer and very little
conduit-building, if any, had been undertaken south of Seventh or west
of Flower.
In January, 1875, the Commercial Bank, that was to change five years
later into the First National, began business. Most of the
incorporators were San Diego men--among them being Captain Henry
Wilcox--although four--L. J. Rose, S. H. Mott, R. M. Town and Edward
Bouton--were from Los Angeles. M. S. Patrick, of Chicago, was
President; and Edward F. Spence was Cashier. Their room was on Main
Street between Commercial and Requena. J. E. Hollenbeck, who was
succeeded by Spence, was the first President of the National Bank. J.
M. Elliott, made Cashier in 1885, has for years well filled the office
of President. A pillar of strength in this institution is
Vice-president Stoddard Jess.
Captain Wilcox, owner of the Colorado Steam Navigation Company, who
finally sold out to the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, brought to
California, on his own vessel in 1848, the first light-houses. He
married Señorita María Antónia Arguello, the granddaughter of an early
Governor of California. One of his daughters became the wife of
Lieutenant Randolph Huntington Miner, and another married Lieutenant
J. C. Drake. Captain Wilcox had induced E. F. Spence to come from San
Diego to Los Angeles, and thereby gave a decided impetus to the
starting of the Commercial Bank.
Milton Lindley, formerly an Indiana saddle-maker and Treasurer of Los
Angeles County in 1879, arrived here in 1875, accompanied by Walter,
the physician; Henry, the banker, who settled at Whittier; Albert, an
attorney; and Miss Ida B., a teacher. In the eighties, he was twice
Supervisor. Dr. Walter Lindley, once a Minnesota schoolmaster, so soon
established himself that in 1878 he was elected health officer and, in
1880, a member of the Board of Education. The following year, he was
President of the County Medical Society. With Dr. Widney, he
contributed to the literature setting forth California's natural
attractions; and with his brother-in-law, Dr. John R. Haynes, he took
a leading part in organizing the California Hospital. Both Lindley and
Haynes have identified themselves with many other important local
institutions and movements.
Madame Caroline Severance, already distinguished as the founder, in
1868, of the first woman's club in America--the New England, of
Boston--took up her residence in Los Angeles in 1875 and soon made her
home, _El Nido_, the center of many notable sociological and
philanthropic activities. Especially active was she in promoting the
free kindergarten, working in coöperation with Mrs. Grover Cleveland
and Kate Douglas Wiggin, the California author who was her _protégée_
and resided for some time at _El Nido_ when she was first becoming
famous as a story-writer.
On March 27th, the _Weekly Mirror_ was again enlarged and a
subscription rate of one dollar a year was charged. By the beginning
of 1876, a bindery was established in connection with the printery;
and a Potter cylinder press--one of the first operated west of the
Rockies--was installed.
E. J. Baldwin bought the Santa Anita _rancho_, in April, from H.
Newmark & Company--a transaction recalled thirty-eight years later
when, in 1913, the box which had been sealed and placed in the
corner-stone of the Trinity Methodist Episcopal Church, at about the
time of the sale, was brought forth from its long burial. Baldwin had
just sold his controlling interest in the Ophir mine of the Comstock
district for five million, five hundred thousand dollars. In the same
year, we purchased of the Vejar estate the splendid vineyard of fifty
acres commencing at Washington Street, on the south and a little east
of Main Street, and taking in many important sections of to-day;
selling it, in the early eighties, to Kaspare Cohn who, in turn,
disposed of it during the boom of that decade. George Compère,
somewhat noted as a local entomologist, cared for this vineyard while
we owned it. Baldwin died on March 1st, 1909.
The sale of the Santa Anita is not without an incident or two,
perhaps, of exceptional interest. On "Lucky" Baldwin's first visit, he
offered us one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for the property;
but learning that we wanted two hundred thousand dollars, he started
off in a huff. Then Reuben Lloyd, the famous San Francisco attorney
who accompanied him, said on reaching the sidewalk, "Lucky, go back
and buy that ranch, or they'll raise the price on you!" and Baldwin
returned, carrying under his arm a tin-box (containing several million
dollars) from which he drew forth twelve thousand, five hundred,
tendering the same as a first payment.
One can hardly refer to Baldwin without recalling H. A. Unruh, in the
late sixties in the employ of the Central Pacific. It is my impression
that I first met him at the Baldwin Hotel in San Francisco. This
meeting may have occurred nearly thirty-five years ago; and after his
removal to the Santa Anita Ranch, where he took charge of Baldwin's
interests in the Southland, he transacted a large amount of business
with H. Newmark & Co. In 1887, Unruh was also in partnership at La
Puente with a man named Carroll, the firm advertising as "Agents for
Baldwin's Grain Warehouse, Wells Fargo & Co.'s Express and
Postmaster." When Baldwin died, his will named Unruh executor; Bradner
W. Lee being the attorney.
Ravenna, on the Southern Pacific, was a town of the middle seventies,
at whose start James O'Reilly, an Irishman of medium build, with
reddish hair and a pug nose decidedly indented at the bridge, turned
up with a happy-go-lucky air. Always slovenly, he wore a big, black
slouch hat on the back of his head, as well as a good-natured
expression, in days of prosperity, on his comical face. He had a
grocery, famed for a conglomeration of merchandise not at all improved
by age and hard usage; and this he sold to a none too fastidious
clientele. He also cooked for himself, bragging that he was
sufficiently adroit to throw a slapjack up the chimney and catch it in
the pan, _outside the shanty_ on its flop or turn! When Jim took to
working a couple of claims known as the New York and Parnell Mines,
his tribulations began: he spent more in the development of his
property than he ever recovered, and claim-jumpers bothered him to
death. In truth, once ascribing debatable motives to a man prowling
there, he took aim at the intruder and--shot off an ear! Later, he
married; but his wife soon divorced him. In time, his troubles
affected his mind; and having lost everything and come to fancy
himself an alchemist, he would sit for hours in the burning sun (his
temples plastered with English mustard) industriously stirring a
pestle and convinced that he could bring about a transmutation of the
mortarful of mud. In the end, this good-natured Son of Erin was one
day found dead in his little shanty.
J. A. Graves arrived in Los Angeles on June 5th and soon entered the
office of Brunson & Eastman, lawyers. The following January he was
admitted to practice before the Supreme Court and then became a member
of the firm of Brunson, Eastman & Graves, dissolved in 1878.
Practicing alone for a couple of years, Graves, in 1880, formed a
partnership with J. S. Chapman. On the dissolution of this firm, in
1885, Graves joined, first H. W. O'Melveny and then J. H. Shankland;
Graves, O'Melveny & Shankland continuing until January, 1904. On June
1st, 1903, Graves became Vice-president of the Farmers & Merchants
National Bank. In the fall of 1879, the young attorney married Miss
Alice H., daughter of J. M. Griffith, and for nine years they lived at
the corner of Fort and Third streets. In 1888 they removed to
Alhambra, where they still live. In 1912, Graves published some
entertaining reminiscences entitled, _Out of Doors California and
Oregon_.
Colonel W. E. Morford, a native of New Jersey and, late in the
eighties, Superintendent of Streets, returned to Los Angeles in 1875,
having previously been here. Morford had been assistant to Captain
Sutter; and when he left San Francisco on March 14th, 1849, to return
East, he carried the first gold taken from the diggings in the
exciting era of 1848. This gold was sent by Frank Lemon, a member of
Stevenson's Regiment, to his brother William, a partner of John
Anderson, the New York tobacco merchant; and Morford liked to tell
how, when the strange find was displayed on August 22d, in a little
window of the well-known jewelry store of Benedict at 7 Wall Street
near a high-hatted guard, the narrow thoroughfare was soon beyond hope
of police control, thousands of curious, excited people struggling to
get a glimpse of the California treasure.
[Illustration: Round House, with Main Street Entrance]
[Illustration: Spring Street Entrance to Garden of Paradise]
[Illustration: Temple Street, Looking West from Broadway, about 1870]
[Illustration: Pico House, soon after Completion]
Moses Langley Wicks was a Mississippian who for some years had a law
office at Anaheim until, in 1877 or 1878, he removed to Los Angeles
and soon became an active operator in real estate. He secured from
Jonathan S. Slauson--who organized the Azusa Land and Water Company
and helped lay out the town--the Dalton section of the San José
Ranch. Wicks was also active in locating the depot of the Santa Fé
Railroad, carrying through at private expense the opening of Second
Street from Main almost to the river. A brother, Moye Wicks, long an
attorney here, later removed to the State of Washington.
Southern California was now prospering; in fact, the whole State was
enjoying wonderful advantages. The great Comstock mines were at the
height of their prosperity; the natural resources of this part of the
country were being developed; land once hard to sell, at even five
dollars an acre, was being cut up into small tracts; new hamlets and
towns were starting up; money was plentiful and everybody was happy.
About this time my brother, J. P. Newmark, and I made a little tour,
visiting Lake Tahoe--an unusual trip in that day--as well as the mines
of Nevada. Virginia City, Gold Hill and other mining-camps were the
liveliest that I had ever seen. My friend, General Charles Forman, was
then Superintendent of the Overman and Caledonia Mines, and was
engaged in constructing a beautiful home in Virginia City. After the
collapse of the Nevada boom in the early eighties, he transported this
house to Los Angeles, at a freight expense of eleven hundred and
thirty-five dollars and a total cost of over six thousand, and located
it on ten acres of land near the present site of Pico and Figueroa
streets, where Mr. and Mrs. Forman, still residents of Los Angeles,
for years have enjoyed their home.
Miners were getting high wages and spending their money lavishly,
owners of buildings in Virginia City receiving from four to eight per
cent. a month on their investments. W. C. Ralston, President of the
Bank of California at San Francisco, was largely responsible for this
remarkable excitement, for he not only lent money freely but he lent
it regardless of conservative banking principles. He engaged in
indiscriminate speculation, for a time legitimatizing illegitimacy,
and people were so incited by his example that they plunged without
heed. All of Nevada's treasure was shipped to San Francisco, whose
prosperity was phenomenal. From San Francisco the excitement spread
throughout the State; but these conditions, from the nature of things,
could not endure. From Bull to Bear is but a short step when the
public is concerned, and it happened accordingly, as it so frequently
does, that the cry of "Save yourself, if you can!" involved California
in a general demoralization. One day in October, 1875, when Ralston's
speculation had indeed proven disastrous, the Bank of California
closed its doors; and a few days after this, Ralston, going a-swimming
in the neighborhood of the North Beach at San Francisco, was
drowned--whether a suicide or not, no one knows. In the meantime, the
recessional frenzy extended all over the State, and every bank was
obliged to close its doors. Those of Los Angeles were no exception to
the rule; and it was then that Temple & Workman suspended. I. W.
Hellman, who was on a European trip at the time, forthwith returned to
Los Angeles, re-opened the doors of the Farmers & Merchants Bank and
resumed business just as if nothing had happened. Following this
panic, times became dreadfully bad; from greatest prosperity, we
dropped to the depths of despair. Specie disappeared from circulation;
values suffered, and this was especially true of real estate in
California.
Temple & Workman's Bank, for reasons I have already specified, could
not recover. Personally, these gentlemen stood well and had ample
resources; but to realize on these was impossible under conditions
then existing. They applied to E. J. Baldwin, a Monte Cristo of that
period, for a loan. He was willing to advance them two hundred and ten
thousand dollars, but upon two conditions: first, that they would give
him a blanket-mortgage on their combined real estate; secondly, that
their intimate friend, Juan Matías Sanchez, would include in the
mortgage his splendid tract consisting of twenty-two hundred acres of
the finest land around the Old Mission. Sanchez, who transacted a good
deal of business with H. Newmark & Company, came to me for advice. I
felt convinced that Temple & Workman's relief could be at best but
temporary, although I am sure that they themselves believed it would
be permanent, and so I strenuously urged Sanchez to refuse; which he
finally promised me to do. So impressive was our interview that I
still vividly recall the scene when he dramatically said: "_¡No quiero
morir de hambre!_"--"I do not wish to die of hunger!" A few days later
I learned, to my deep disappointment, that Sanchez had agreed, after
all, to include his lands. In the course of time, Baldwin foreclosed
and Sanchez died very poor. Temple also, his pride shattered
--notwithstanding his election in 1875 to the County Treasurership
--died a ruined man; and Workman soon committed suicide. Thus ended in
sorrow and despair the lives of three men who, in their day, had
prospered to a degree not given to every man, and who had also been
more or less distinguished. Baldwin bought in most of the land at
Sheriff's sale; and when he died, in 1909, after an adventurous career
in which he consummated many transactions, he left an estate of about
twenty millions. A pathetic reminder of Sanchez and his one-time
prosperity is an _asador_ or meat toaster, from the old Sanchez
homestead, now exhibited at the County Museum.
In 1874, Senator John P. Jones came south and engaged with William M.
Stewart, his senatorial colleague (once an obscure lawyer in
Downieville, and later a Nevada Croesus), in mining at Panamint,
purchasing all their supplies in Los Angeles. About the same time,
Colonel R. S. Baker, who had shortly before bought the San Vicente
_rancho_, sold a two-thirds interest in the property to Jones; and one
of their first operations was the laying out of the town of Santa
Monica. After the hotel and bath-houses had been built, an auction
sale of lots took place on July 16th, 1875, and was attended by a
large number of people, including myself; prospective buyers coming
from as far as San Francisco to compete with bidders from the
Southland. Tom Fitch, already known as the "Silver-tongued Orator,"
was the auctioneer and started the ball rolling with one of his most
pyrotechnical efforts. He described the place about to be founded as
"The Zenith City by the Sunset Sea," and painted a gorgeous vista of
the day when the white sails of commerce would dot the placid waters
of the harbor, and the products of the Orient would crowd those of
the Occident at the great wharves that were to stretch far out into
the Pacific!
Then Tom turned his attention and eloquence to the sale of the lots,
which lay along Ocean Avenue, each sixty by one hundred and fifty feet
in size. Calling for a bid, he announced the minimum price of three
hundred dollars for sites along the ocean front. Several friends--I.
M. Hellman, I. W. Hellman, Kaspare Cohn, Eugene Meyer and M. J.
Newmark--had authorized me to act for them; and I put in the first bid
of three hundred dollars. Fitch accepted, and stated that as many more
of these lots as I wanted could be had at the same price; whereupon I
took five, located between Utah and Oregon avenues. These we divided
among us, each taking fifty feet front, with the expectation of
building summer homes; but strange to say, none of us did so, and in
the end we sold our unimproved ground. Some years later, I bought a
site in the next block and built a house which I still occupy each
year in the summer season.
Three early characters of Santa Monica had much to do with the actual
starting of the place. The one, L. G. Giroux, a Canadian, walked out
to Santa Monica one day in 1875, to get a glimpse of the surf, and
came back to town the owner of a lot on which he soon built the second
permanent house there--a small grocery and liquor shop. In the
eighties, Giroux did good public service as a Supervisor. The second,
Billy Rapp, also came in 1875 and built a small brick house on the
west side of Second Street somewhere between Utah and Arizona avenues.
There, after marrying a German _Frau_, he opened a saloon; and
pleasure-seekers visiting Santa Monica on Sundays long remembered
Billy's welcome and how, on the arrival of the morning train from Los
Angeles, he always tapped a fresh keg of lager. After a while, he
closed his saloon and sold the little building for a town hall. Hard
times in later years rapped at Billy's door, forcing him to work on
the public streets until 1899, when he died. The third settler was
George Boehme, who landed with the first steamer and, within an hour
or two, invested in lots. His family is there to-day.
Another pioneer Santa Monica family was that of William D. Vawter who,
with his sons, W. S. and E. J., originally members of the Indiana
Colony at Pasadena, removed to the beach in 1875. My relations with
these gentlemen were quite intimate when they conducted a general
merchandise business, that being but one of their numerous
enterprises. Of late years, W. S. Vawter has twice been Postmaster at
Santa Monica.
In 1875, Paul Kern, who had come to Los Angeles in 1854 and was for
years a baker, set to work to improve a piece of property he owned at
the junction of South Main and Spring streets, between Eighth and
Ninth. At the end of this property he erected a two-story brick
building--still to be seen--in the lower part of which he had a
grocery and a saloon, and in the upper part of which he lived.
Toward the middle of the seventies, A. Ulyard, the baker, embarked in
the carrying of passengers and freight between Los Angeles and Santa
Monica, sending a four-horse stage from here at half-past seven every
morning, and from Santa Monica at half-past three in the afternoon,
and calling at all four Los Angeles hotels as well as at the private
residences of prospective patrons. One dollar was the fare charged.
Ralph Leon had the only regular cigar store here in the late sixties,
occupying a part of the United States Hotel; and he was very
prosperous until, unable to tolerate a nearby competitor--George, a
brother of William Pridham--he took up a new stand and lost much of
his patronage. Pridham opened the second cigar store, about 1872 or
1873, next to the hotel; and Leon moved to a shop near the Farmers &
Merchants Bank.
The names of these early dealers remind me of an interesting custom
especially popular with Captain Thom, Billy Workman and other lovers
of the aromatic weed. Instead of buying cigars by the piece, each of
these inveterate smokers purchased a box at a time, wrote his name on
the lid and left it on a shelf of the dealer; and from time to time
they would slip in by a rear door and help themselves--generally from
their own or, occasionally, from their neighbor's supply. When Leon
discovered that the patron's box was empty, he would have it
refilled.
In the autumn, Temple & Workman were obliged to suspend. After closing
temporarily, they made an effort to resume, but a run on the Bank
deprived them of all reserves and they finally had to close their
doors. It was the worst of all bank failures here, the creditors
losing everything. Some idea of the disaster may be gathered from the
fact that the Receiver finally sold worthless securities to the extent
of about three hundred thousand dollars for the paltry sum of thirty
dollars.
On the sixth of November, 1875, Mrs. Joseph Newmark, my wife's mother,
died here surrounded by her nearest of kin.
During the construction of the Southern Pacific Railway, Sisson,
Wallace & Company, who furnished both labor and supplies, brought M.
Dodsworth to Los Angeles and like many of their employees, he remained
here after the railroad was completed. He engaged in the pork-packing
business, for a long period prospered and built a residence on the
southwest corner of Sixth and Main streets, opening it with a large
reception. He was an honorable man and had a host of friends; but
about 1887, when the Santa Fé had been built to Los Angeles, the large
Eastern packers of hog products sent agents into Southern California
and wiped Dodsworth out of business.
S. J. Mathes came in 1875, helped enlarge the _Mirror_ and was
identified with the _Times_; but failing health, forcing him to
abandon office work, led him in the eighties to conduct Pullman
excursions, in which undertaking he became a pioneer, bringing
thousands of tourists to the Southland. He also toured the country
with a railway car exhibit known as "California on Wheels," pointing
the way of exploitation to later Chambers of Commerce.
Toward the end of the year, when attention was being centered on the
coming exposition at Philadelphia, I was asked by the Chamber of
Commerce to assist in editing a report on the resources, conditions,
population, climatic advantages and mercantile interests of the city
and county of Los Angeles. The aim of the Board was to make the report
truthful and helpful, and to distribute it gratis, particularly at
the Centennial. Ben C. Truman wrote about cities, towns and climate;
Judge R. M. Widney reported on railroads; H. McClellan, the steamship
agent (who preceded Willis Parris, the present representative and once
a competent bill-clerk in the employ of H. Newmark & Company) and
brother of Bryce and George F. McClellan, told of ocean navigation;
Dr. J. E. Fulton, of Fulton Wells, discussed farming; Dr. J. P. Widney
described our harbor; D. M. Berry argued for real estate; Governor
Downey presented banks and banking; M. Keller and L. J. Rose treated
of vine culture; J. de B. Shorb looked after semi-tropical fruits and
nuts, and T. A. Garey--himself the owner of a charming place on San
Pedro Street, where his spiritualistic tendencies kept him up at night
awaiting the arrival of spooks--considered other fruits and nurseries;
W. J. Brodrick stated our advance in trades, professions, churches and
societies; E. C. French summed up about stock; Captain Gordon
recounted our prospects for beet culture; while H. D. Barrows and I
prepared data as to the commerce of Southern California. Thus
compactly put together, this booklet certainly led many Easterners to
migrate West and to settle in Los Angeles and vicinity.
In the early seventies, Grange Stores, brought into existence by a
craze for coöperation, were scattered throughout the State, and Milton
H. La Fetra in February, 1875 helped to organize one here. In time,
this establishment became known, first as Seymour & Company and then
as Seymour, Johnson & Company, their location being on Main Street
near First.
W. H. Northcraft's activity as an auctioneer began about the middle of
the seventies. For a while, he had an office in Temple Block, but
about 1880 moved to the east side of Los Angeles Street near Requena;
later to the Signoret Building, and still later to the Baker Block. In
1879, Thomas B. Clark, still well known "in the profession," came to
Los Angeles and, marrying Northcraft's daughter, joined his
father-in-law in partnership. C. L. Northcraft, a son, was added to
the firm. Alonzo B. Cass came to Los Angeles in 1888, accompanied by
his brothers, and soon after, as Cass Brothers' Stove Company, they
started a hardware store on Third Street, purchasing some of
Northcraft & Clark's stock of merchandise. A. B. Cass, who served as
President of the Chamber of Commerce in 1901, has freely given of his
time to public movements. As President of the Home Telephone &
Telegraph Company, he has had much to do with their local success. E.
W. Noyes was also a popular, old-time auctioneer, remaining in harness
until he was seventy-five years old or more.
The mention of these names recalls the auction of past decades, such a
familiar feature of Los Angeles life. In few respects were the methods
of early days at all like those of our own: there were no catalogues,
no neatly-arranged store-rooms and but little expert service; noise
and bluff constituted a good, even important portion of the necessary
auctioneering talent; household effects were usually offered at homes;
horses--and these constituted the objects of most early auctioneering
activities--were trotted up and down Los Angeles Street for display
and sale.