THE
True and perfect Description
of three Voyages,
so strange and woonderfull,
that the like hath neuer been
heard of before:
Done and performed three yeares, one after the other, by the Ships
of Holland and Zeland, on the North sides of Norway, Muscouia, and
Tartaria, towards the Kingdomes of Cathaia & China; shewing
the discouerie of the Straights of Weigates, Noua Zembla,
and the Countrie lying vnder 80. degrees; which is
thought to be Greenland: where neuer any man had
bin before: with the cruell Beares, and other
Monsters of the Sea, and the vnsupport-
able and extreame cold that is
found to be in those
places.
And how that in the last Voyage, the Shippe was so inclosed by
the Ice, that it was left there, whereby the men were forced to build a
house in the cold and desart Countrie of Noua Zembla, wherin
they continued 10. monthes togeather, and neuer saw nor
heard of any man, in most great cold and extreame
miserie; and how after that, to saue their liues, they
were constrained to sayle aboue 350. Duch
miles, which is aboue 1000. miles English,
in litle open Boates, along and ouer the
maine Seas, in most great daunger,
and with extreame labour, vn-
speakable troubles, and
great hunger.
Imprinted at London for T. Pauier.
1609.
To the Right Worshipfull,
Sir Thomas Smith Knight, Gouernour
of the Muscouy Company, &c.
Right Worshipfvll: Being intreated by some of my Friends, and
principally by M. Richard Hakluyt (a diligent obseruer of all
Proceedings in this nature) to Translate and publish these three yeares
Trauelles and Discoueries of the Hollanders to the North-east; I could
not deuise how to consecrate my Labours so properly to any, as to your
selfe, considering not onely the generall good affection the whole
Kingdome takes notice, that you beare to all Honorable actions of this
kinde, be they for Discouerie, Traffique, or Plantation; but also in
respect of that particular charge, most worthily recommended to your
care, ouer the Trade of the English in those North-east Partes.
Many attempts and proffers (I confesse) there haue bin to find a
passage by those poorest parts to the richest; by those barbarous, to
the most ciuile; those vnpeopled, to the most popular; those Desarts,
to the most fertile Countries of the World: and of them all, none (I
dare say) vndertaken with greater iudgement, with more obdurate
Patience, euen aduersus Elementa, aduersus ipsam in illis locis rerum
naturam, then these three by the Hollanders.
If any of our Nation be employed that way in time to come, here they
haue a great part of their Voiage layd open, and the example of that
industrious people (first excited to this and other famous Voyages, by
imitation of some of ours) for the conquering of all difficulties and
dangers; those people (I say) that of all Christians, and for aught I
know, of all Adams Posteritie, haue first nauigated to 81 Degrees of
Northerly Latitude, and wintered in 76, where they had no Inhabitants,
but Foxes, Beares, and Deare, to keepe them company.
And were it for nothing else, but to register the miraculous prouidence
of the Creator, and his admirable and vnspeakable workes in these
congealed Climats, vnknowen vtterly to the Ancients, and to demonstrate
how much we are obliged to his omnipotent fauour, for planting vs in so
temperate, so ciuill, and so Religious a part of the World, as this
blessed Island; I thinke omission in this kinde were little lesse than
Sacriledge.
As it is, I humbly desire you to vouch-safe it your protection, and to
esteeme mee,
Alwayes deuoted to your seruice,
William Phillip.
THE FYRST PART
OF THE
NAUIGATION INTO THE NORTH SEAS..
It is a most certaine and an assured assertion, that nothing doth more
benefit and further the common-wealth (specially these countries [230])
then the art and knowledge of nauigation, in regard that such countries
and nations as are strong and mightie at sea, haue the meanes and ready
way to draw, fetch, and bring vnto them for their maintenaunce, all the
principalest commodities and fruites of the earth, for that thereby
they are inabled to bring all necessary things for the nourishment and
sustentation of man from the vttermost partes of the world, and to
carry and conuay such wares and marchendizes [As the art of nauigation
more increaseth, so there are daily more new countries found out.]
whereof they haue great store and aboundance vnto the same places,
which by reason of the art of nauigation, and the commodities of the
sea, is easily to be effected and brought to passe. Which nauigation as
it dayly more and more increaseth (to the great woonder and admiration
of those, that compare the sea-faring and nauigation vsed in our
forefathers times, yea and that also that hath beene practised in our
age, with that which now at this present is daily furthered and sought
out), so there are continually new voiages made, and strange coasts
discouered; the which [Diligence and continuance effect that which is
sought.] although they be not done by the first, secōd, or third
voiage, but after, by tract of time, first brought to their full
effect, and desired commoditie, and the fruits thereof, by continuance
of time reaped. Yet we must not be abasht, nor dismayed, at the labour,
toile, trauaile, and dāgers sustayned in such uoiages, to that end
made, although as I said [We must not leaue of by some mens dislike or
dispraise in our proceedings.] before the benefit thereof be not had
nor seene in the first, second, third, or more uoiages; for what labour
is more profitable, and worthier praise and commendation, then that
which tendeth vnto the common good and benefit of all men; Although
such as are vnskilfull, contemners, and deriders of mens diligence and
proceedings therein, at the first esteeme it an vnprofitable and
needlesse thing, when as the end prooueth beneficiall and commodious.
If the famous nauigators Cortesius, Nonius, and Megalanes, [231] and
others, that in their times sought out and discovered the kingdomes,
countries, and ilands farre distant from vs, in the extreamest parts of
the world, for the first, second, or third voyage, that had succeeded
vnfortunately with them, had left off and giuen ouer their nauigatiō,
they had not afterward reaped nor enioyed the fruites, benefits, and
commodities thereof. [A thing not continued, can not be effected.]
Alexander magnus (after he had woone all Grecia, and from thence entred
into little and great Asia, and comming to the farthest parts of India,
there found some difficultie to passe) sayd, If we had not gone
forward, and persisted in our intent, which other men esteemed and held
to be impossible, we had still remayned and stayed in the entry of
Cilicia, [232] where [All things are effected in convenient time.] as
now we haue ouerrunne and past through all those large and spacious
countries: for nothing is found and effected all at one time, neither
is any thing that is put in practise, presently brought to an end. To
the which end, Cicero wisely saith, God hath giuen vs some things, and
not all things, that our successours also might have somewhat to doe.
Therefore we must not leaue off, nor stay our pretence in the middle of
our proceedings, as long as there is any commoditie to be hoped, and in
time to be obtayned: for that the greatest and richest treasures are
hardliest to be found. But to make no long digression from our matter,
concerning the dayly furtheraunce of the most necessarie and profitable
art of nauigation, that hath been brought to full effect, not without
great charges, labour, and paines; ouerslipping and not shewing with
how long and troublesome labour and toyle, continually had, the
passages to the East and West Indies, America, Brasilia, and other
places, through the straight of Magellanes, in the South Sea, twise or
thrise passing vnder the Line, [233] and by those meanes other
countries and ilands, were first found out and discouered.
Let vs looke into the White Seas, [234] that are now so commonly sayled
(on the north side of Muscouia), with what cumbersome labour and toyle
they were first discouered: What hath now made this voyage so common
and easie? is [That which in the beginning is hard, by continuance of
time is made easie and light.] it not the same, and as long a voyage as
it was, before it was fully knowne and found out? I, [235] but the
right courses, which at the first were to be sought, by crossing the
seas from one land to another, and are now to be held aloofe into the
seas and directly sayled, hath, of difficult and toylesome, made them
easie and ready voyages.
This small discourse I thought good to set downe, for an introduction
vnto the reader, in regard that I haue vndertaken to describe the three
voyages made into the North Seas, in three yeares, one after the other,
behind Norway, and along and about Muscouia, towardes the kingdome of
Cathaia and China: whereof the two last I myself holpe to effect; [236]
and yet brought them not to the desired end that we well hoped.
First, to shew our diligent and most toylesome labour and [The first
finding is hard, but the second attempt is easier.] paynes taken, to
find out the right course; which we could not bring to passe, as we
well hoped, wished, and desired, and possible might haue found it, by
crossing the seas, if we had taken the right course; if the ice and the
shortnesse of time, and bad crosses had not hindered vs: and also to
stoppe their mouthes, that report and say, that our proceeding therein
was wholly vnprofitable and fruitelesse; which peraduenture in time to
come, may turne vnto our great profite and commoditie. For he which
proceedeth and continueth in a thing that seemeth to be impossible, is
not to be discommended: but hee, that in regarde that the thing seemeth
to be impossible, doth not proceed therein, but by his faint
heartedness and sloath, wholly leaueth it off.
[Not the nearness of the North Pole, but the Ice in the Tartarian sea,
causeth the greatest cold.] Wee haue assuredly found, that the onely
and most hinderaunce to our voyage, was the ice, that we found about
Noua Zembla, [237] vnder 73, 74, 75, and 76 degrees; and not so much
vpon the sea betweene both the landes: [238] whereby it appeareth, that
not the nearenesse of the North Pole, but the ice that commeth in and
out from the Tartarian Sea, [239] about Noua Zembla, caused vs to feele
the greatest cold. Therefore in regard that the nearenesse of the Pole
was not the cause of the great cold that we felt, if we had had the
meanes to haue held our appoynted and intended course into the
north-east, we had peraduenture found some enteraunce: which course we
could not hold from Noua Zembla, because that there we entred amongst
great store of ice; and how it was about Noua Zembla, we could not
tell, before we had sought it; and when we had sought it, we could not
then alter our course, although also it is vncertaine, what we should
have done, if we had continued in our north-east course, because it is
not yet found out. But it is true, that in the countrie lying vnder 80
degrees, [240] (which we esteeme to be Greenland) there is both leaues
and grasse to be seene; wherein, such beastes as feed of leaues and
grasse, (as hartes, hindes, and such like beastes) liue: whereas to the
contrary in Noua Zembla, there groweth nether leaues nor grasse, and
there are no beastes therein but such as eate flesh, [241] as beares,
and foxes, &c.; although Noua Zembla lyeth 4, 5, and 6 degrees more
southerly from the Pole, then the other land aforesaid. It is also
manifest, that vpon [Comparison of the heate under the line, with the
cold under the North Pole.] the south and north side of the line of the
sunne on both sides, between both the tropicos, vnder 23 degrees and a
halfe, it is as hot as it is right vnder the Line. What wonder then
should it be, that about the North Pole also, and as many degrees on
both sides, it should not bee colder then right vnder the Pole? I will
not affirme this to bee true, because that the colde on both sides of
the North Pole hath not as yet beene discouered and sought out, as the
heat on the north and south side of the Line hath beene. Onely thus
much I will say, that although we held not our direct pretended [242]
course to the north-east, that therefore it is to be iudged, that the
cold would haue let our passage through that way, for it was not the
sea, nor the neerenesse vnto the Pole, but the ice about the land, that
let and hindered vs (as I sayd before) for that as soon as we made from
the land, and put more into the sea, although it was much [The resolute
intent and opinions of William Barents.] further northward, presently
we felt more warmth; and in yt opinion our pilote William Barents [243]
dyed, who notwithstanding the fearful and intollerable cold that he
endured, yet he was not discouraged, but offered to lay wagers with
diuers of us, that by Gods helpe he would bring that pretended voiage
to an end, if he held his course north-east from the North Cape. But I
will leaue that, and shewe you of the three voyages aforesaid, begun
and set forth by the permission and furtherance of the generall States
of the vnited Prouinces, and of Prince Maurice, as admirall of the sea,
and the rich towne of Amsterdam. Whereby the reader may iudge and
conceaue what is to bee done, for the most profite and advantage, and
what is to be left.
First you must understand, that in anno 1594 there was 4 ships set
foorth out of the vnited Prouinces, whereof two were of Amsterdam, one
of Zelandt, one of Enckhuysen, that were appointed to saile into the
North Seas, to discouer the kingdomes of Cathaia, and China, north-ward
from Norway, Muscouia, and about Tartaria; whereof William Barents, a
notable skilfull and wise pilote, was commander ouer the ships of
Amsterdam, and with them vpon Whit-sunday [244] departed from Amsterdam
and went to the Texel.
Upon the fifth of June they sailed out of the Texel, and hauing a good
wind and faire weather, vpon the 23 of June, they arrived at Kilduin in
Muscouia, [245] which for that it is a place well knowen and a common
voyage, I will make no further discription thereof.
The 29 of June, at foure of the clocke in the after noone, they set
saile out of Kilduin, and so 13 [52] or 14 [56] miles [246] out-right
sailed north-east, with a north north-west wind, and close weather.
The 30 of June they sayled east north-east 7 [28] miles, till the sunne
was east south-east [about half-past six o’clock in the morning], [247]
with a north wind, with 2 schower sailes, [248] there they cast out
their lead, at 100 fadome deepth, but found no ground.
From whence the same day they sailed east north-east [249] 5 [20]
miles, till the sunne was full south [¾ past 10, A.M.], hauing the wind
north, with 2 schower sailes, where once againe they cast out the lead
100 fadome deepe, but found no ground; and then from noone to night
[250] the same day, they sailed east, and east and by north 13 [52]
miles, till the sunne was north-west [¼ past 7, P.M.], and there
casting out their lead, they had ground at 120 fadome, the ground being
oasie, [251] and blacke durt.
The 1 of July, after they had sailed one quarter [252] 4 [16] miles
east, and east and by north, early in the morning they cast out the
lead, and found ground at 60 fadome, where they had an oasie small
sandy ground; and within an houre after they cast out the lead againe,
and had ground at 52 fadome, being white sande mixed with blacke, and
some-what oasie: after that they had sailed 3 [12] miles east and by
north, where they had ground at 40 fadome, being gray sand mixed with
white. From thence they sailed 2 [8] miles east-ward, with a north
north-east winde, there they had ground at 38 fadome, being red sand
mixed with black, the sunne being south-east and by east [¼ past 7,
A.M.]. From thence they sailed 3 [12] miles, east and by south, and
east south-east til noone, where they had the sunne at 70 degrees and
¾, [253] there they cast out the lead againe, and had ground at 39
fadome, being small gray sand, mixed with blacke stippellen [254] and
pieces of shels.
Then againe they sailed 2 [8] miles south-east, and then woond [255]
northward with an east north-east wind, and after sailed 6 [24] miles
north-east all that day, [256] with a south-east wind, till the sunne
was north north-west [¼ past 9 P.M.], the weather being cold; and the
lead being cast foorth they found ground at 60 fadome, being small gray
oasie sand, mixed with a little blacke, and great whole shels: [257]
after that the same euening to the first quarter, [258] they sailed 5
[20] miles, east north-east, and north-east and by east, and after that
east north-east, and north-east and by east 5 [20] miles, vntill the
second of July in the morning, and there they had 65 fadome deepe, the
ground oasie with black slime or durt.
The same day from morning till noone, they sailed 3 [12] or 4 [16]
miles east north-east, the wind blowing stiffe south-east, whereby at
noone they were forced to take [259] in the fore-saile, and driue with
a schower saile, [260] in mistie weather, for the space of 3 [12] or 4
[16] miles, vntill euening, holding east, and east and by south: after
that the winde blew south-west, and about 5 of the clocke in the
after-noone, they cast out the lead, but had no ground at 120 fadome.
That euening the weather cleared vp againe, and they sailed about 5
[20] miles before the wind, east north-east, for the space of 3 houres,
and then againe it began to be mistie, so that they durst not saile
forward, but lay hulling in the wind, [261] where vpon Sunday morning
being the 3 of July, when the sunne was north-east [½ p. 1, A.M.], they
cast out the lead and found ground at 125 fadome, being black durt or
slime.
From thence they sailed 8 [32] miles east north-east, till the sunne
was south-east [½ p. 7, A.M.], and casting out the lead, found ground
at 140 fadom, being blacke slimie durt, at which time they tooke the
high of the sun and found it to be 73 degrees and 6 minutes, and
presently againe they cast out the lead, and had 130 fadome deepth, the
ground being blacke slime. After that they sayled 6 [24] or 7 [28]
miles further east north-east, till the sunne was north-west [½ p. 7,
P.M.].
On Sunday in the morning, being the 3 of July, it was very faire and
cleare weather, the wind blowing south-west, at which time William
Barents found out the right meridien, taking the high of the sunne with
his crosse-staffe, [262] when it was south-east, and found it to be
eleuated in the south-east 28 degrees and a halfe, and when it had
passed ouer west and by north, it was but [263] 28 degrees and a half
aboue the horizon, so that it differed 5 points and a half, which being
deuided there rested 2 points and ¾; so that their compasse was altered
2 points and ¾, as it appeared the same day, when the sunne was in her
higth, betweene south south-west and south-west and by south, for the
sun was south-west and by south, and yet was not declined, and they had
73 degrees and 6 minutes.
The 4 of July in the morning, they sailed 4 [16] miles east and by
north, and casting out the lead found ground at 125 fadome, being
slimie. That night the weather was mistie againe, and in the morning
the wind was east; then they sailed 4 [16] miles south-east and by
south, till the sunne was east [½ p. 4, A.M.], and then againe they
cast out the lead, and found ground at 108 fadome, black durt; then
they wound north-ward, and sailed 6 [24] miles, north north-east, and
north-east and by north, vntill the sunne was south south-west [¾ p.
11, A.M.], and then they saw the land of Noua Zembla, lying south-east
and by east 6 [24] or 7 [28] miles from them, where they had black
durty ground at 105 fadome. Then they woond southward againe, and
sailed 6 [24] miles, south and by west, till the sunne was west
north-west [5, P.M.], there they had 68 fadome deepe, with durtie
ground as before, the wind being south-east.
Then they woond east-ward and sailed 6 [24] miles east and by south, at
which time, [264] William Barents took the height of the sunne with his
crosse-staffe, [265] when it was at the lowest, that is between north
north-east and east and by north, [266] and found it to bee eleuated
aboue the horizon 6 degrees and ⅓ part, his declination being 22
degrees and 55 minutes, from whence substracting the aforesaid height,
there resteth 16 degrees and 35 minutes, which being substracted from
90 degrees, there resteth 73 degrees and 25 minutes; which was when
they were about 5 [20] or 6 [24] miles from the land of Noua Zembla.
Then they woond east-ward and sailed 5 [20] miles, east and by south,
and east south-east, and past by a long point of land that lay out into
the sea, [267] which they named Langenes: and hard by that point
east-ward there was a great bay, where they went a land with their
boate, but found no people.
Three [12] or foure [16] miles from Langenes east north-east, there lay
a long [268] point, and a mile [4 miles] east-ward from the said point
there was a great bay, and upon the east side of the said bay, there
lay a rock not very high aboue the water, and on the west side of the
bay, there stood a sharpe little hill, easie to be knowne: before the
bay it was 20 fadome deepth, the ground small blacke stones, like
pease: from Langenes to Cape Bapo [269] east north-east it is 4 [16]
miles.
From Cape Bapo to the west point of Lombsbay north-east and by north
are 5 [20] miles, and betweene them both there are 2 creekes. Lombsbay
is a great wide bay, on the west side thereof hauing a faire hauen 6,
7, or 8, fadome deepe, black sand: there they went on shore with their
boate, and vpon the shore placed a beacon, made of an old mast which
they found there; calling the bay Lombsbay, because of a certaine kind
of beares [270] so called, which they found there in great aboundance.
The east point of Lombsbay is a long narrow point, and by it there
lyeth an island, and from that long point to seaward in, there is a
great creeke. [271] This Lombsbay lyeth vnder 74 degrees and ⅓ part.
From Lombsbay to the point of the Admirals Island, [272] they sailed 6
[24] or 7 [28] miles, north-east and by north. The Admirals Island is
not very faire on [273] the east side, but a farre off very flat, so
that you must shunne it long before you come at it; it is also very
vneuen, for at one casting off the lead they had 10 fadome deepe, and
presently at another casting of the lead they had but 6 fadome, and
presently after that againe 10, 11, and 12 fadome, the streame running
hard against the flats.
From the east end of the Admirals Island, to Cape Negro, [274] that is
the Black Pointe, they sailed about 5 [20] or 6 [24] miles, east
north-east; and a mile [4 miles] without the Black Point it is 70
fadome deepe, the ground slimie, as vpon Pamphius: [275] right eastward
of the Blacke Point, there are 2 sharpe pointed hills in the creeke,
that are easie to be knowen.
The 6 of July, the sunne being north [½ p. 10, P.M.], they came right
before the Blacke Point with faire weather: this Blacke Point lyeth
vnder 75 degrees and 20 minutes. From the Blacke Point to Williams
Island, [276] they sailed 7 [28] or 8 [32] miles, east north-east, and
between them both about halfe a mile [2 miles], there lay a small
island.
The 7 of July they sailed from Williams Island, and then William
Barents tooke the height of the sunne with his cross-staffe, [277] and
found it to be eleuated aboue the horizon [278] in the south-west and
by south 53 degrees and 6 minutes, [279] his declination being 22
degrees and 49 minutes, which being added to 53 degrees and 6 minutes,
make 75 degrees and 55 minutes. [280] This is the right height of the
pole of the said island. In this island they found great store of
driff-wood, and many sea-horses, being a kinde of fish [281] that
keepeth in the sea, having very great teeth, which at this day are vsed
insteed of iuorie or elephants teeth: there also is a good road for
ships, at 12 and 13 fadome deep, against all winds, except it be west
south-west and west windes; and there they found a piece of a Russian
ship, [282] and that day they had the wind east north-east, mistie
weather.
The 9 of July they entered into Beeren-fort, [283] vpon the road vnder
Williams Island, and there they found a white beare, which they
perceiuing, presently entered into their boate, and shot her into the
body with a musket; but the beare shewed most wonderfull strength,
which almost is not to be found in any beast, for no man euer heard the
like to be done by any lyon or cruel beast whatsoeuer: for
notwithstanding that she was shot into the bodie, yet she leapt vp, and
swame in the water, the men that were in the boate rowing after her,
cast a rope about her necke, and by that meanes drew her at the sterne
of the boat, for that not hauing seene the like beare before, they
thought to haue carryed her aliue in the shippe, and to have shewed her
for a strange wonder in Holland; but she vsed such force, that they
were glad that they were rid of her, and contented themselves with her
skin only, for she made such a noyse, and stroue in such sort, that it
was admirable, wherewith they let her rest and gave her more scope with
the rope that they held by her, and so drew her in that sort after
them, by that meanes to wearie her: meane time, William Barents made
neerer to her, [284] but the beare swome to the boate, and with her
fore-feet got hold of the sterne thereof, which William Barents
perceiuing, said, She will there rest her selfe; but she had another
meaning, for she vsed such force, that at last she had gotten half her
body into the boat, wherewith the men were so abashed, that they run
into ye further end of the boate, and thought verily to have been
spoiled by her, but by a strange means they were deliuered from her,
for that the rope that was about her necke, caught hold vpon the hooke
of the ruther, whereby the beare could get no further, but so was held
backe, and hanging in that manner, one of the men boldly stept foorth
from the end of the scute, [285] and thrust her into the bodie with a
halfe-pike; and therewith she fell downe into the water, and so they
rowed forward with her to the ship, drawing her after them, till she
was in a manner dead, wherewith they killed her out-right, and hauing
fleaed her, brought the skinne to Amsterdam.
The 10 of July, [286] they sailed out of Beren-fort for Williams
Island, and the same day in the morning got to the Island of Crosses,
[287] and there went on land with their pinnace, and found the island
to bee barren, and full of cliffes and rocks, in it there was a small
hauen, whereinto they rowed with their boat. This island is about halfe
a mile [2 miles] long, and reacheth east and west; on the west end it
hath a banke, about a third part of a mile [1⅓ mile] long, and at the
east end also another banke: vpon this island there standeth 2 great
crosses; the island lyeth about 2 [8] long miles from the firme land,
[288] and vnder the east-end thereof there is good road at 26 fadome,
soft ground; [289] and somewhat closer to the island on the strand, at
9 fadome, sandy ground.
From the Island of Crosses to the point of Cape Nassawe, [290] they
sailed east, and east and by north, about 8 [32] miles: it is a long
[291] flat point which you must be carefull to shunne, for thereabouts
at 7 fadome there were flats or sholes, very farre from the land: it
lyeth almost under 76 degrees and a halfe. From the west end of
Williams Island to the Island with the Crosses is 3 [12] miles, the
course north. [292]
From Nassaw Point they sailed east and by south, and east south-east 5
[20] miles, and then they thought that they saw land in north-east and
by east, [293] and sailed towards it 5 [20] miles north-east to discrie
it, thinking it to be another land, that lay northward from Noua
Zembla; but it began to blow so hard out of the west, that they were
forced to take in their marsaile, [294] and yet the wind rose in such
manner, that they were forced to take in all their sailes, and the sea
went so hollow, that they were constrained to driue 16 houres together
without saile, 8 [32] or 9 [36] miles east north-east.
The 11 of July their boat was by a great wave of the sea sunke to the
ground, and by that meanes they lost it, and after that they drave
without sailes 5 [20] miles, east and by south; at last, the sunne
being almost south-east [½ p. 7, A.M.], the wind came about to the
north-west, and then the weather began somewhat to clear up, but yet it
was very mistie. Then they hoysed vp their sailes againe and sailed 4
[16] miles till night, that the sunne was north and by east [11, P.M.],
and there they had 60 fadome deepth, muddie ground, and there they saw
certaine flakes of ice, [295] at which time vpon the 12 of July they
woond west, and held north-west, and sailed about a mile [4 miles] with
mistie weather, and a north-west wind, and sailed up and downe west
south-west 3 [12] or 4 [16] miles to see if they could find their boat
againe: after that they wound againe with the wind, [296] and sayled 4
[16] miles south-east, till the sunne was south-west [1, P.M.], and
then they were close by the land of Noua Zembla, that lay east and by
north, and west and by south; from thence they wound ouer againe till
noone, and sayled 3 [12] miles north and by west; and then, till the
sunne was north-west [¾ p. 6, P.M.], they held north-west and by north
3 [12] miles; then they wound east-ward and sailed 4 [16] or 5 [20]
miles north-east and by east.
The 13 of July at night, they found great store of ice, as much as they
could descrie out of the top, that lay as if it had been a plaine field
of ice; [297] then they wound west-ward ouer from the ice, and sailed
about 4 [16] miles west south-west, till the sunne was east and by
north [5 A.M.], and that they saw the land of Noua Zembla, lying south
south-east from them.
Then they wound north-ward againe and sailed 2 [8] miles, till the
sunne was east south-east [½ p. 6, A.M.], and then againe found great
store of ice, and after that sailed south-west and by south 3 [12]
miles.
The 14 of July they wound northward againe, and sayled with 2 schower
sailes [298] north and by east, and north north-east 5 [20] or 6 [24]
miles, to the height of 77 degrees and ⅓ part, [299] and entred againe
amongst the ice, being so broad that they could not see ouer it, there
they had no ground at 100 fadome, and then it blew hard west
north-west.
From thence they wound south-ward, and sailed south south-west 7 [28]
or 8 [32] miles, and came againe by the land, that shewed to be 4 or 5
high hilles. Then they wound northward, and till euening sayled north 6
[24] miles, but there againe they found ice.
From thence they wound south-ward, and sailed south and by west 6 [24]
miles, and then againe entred into ice.
The 15 of July, they wound south-ward againe, sayling south and by west
6 [24] miles, and in the morning were by the land of Noua Zembla
againe, the sunne being about north-east [½ p. 1, A.M.].
From thence they wound north-ward againe, and sayled north and by east
7 [28] miles, and entred againe into the ice. Then they wound
south-ward againe, the sunne being west [¾ p. 3, P.M.], and sailed
south south-west, and south-west and by south 8 [32] or 9 [36] miles,
vpon the 16 of July.
From thence they wound north-ward, and sailed north and by east 4 [16]
miles; after that againe they wound west-ward, and sailed west and by
south 4 [16] miles, and then they sailed north north-west 4 [16] miles,
and then the wind blew north north-east, and it froze hard; this was
upon the 17 of July.
Then they wound east-ward, and sailed east till noone, 3 [12] miles,
and after that east and by south 3 [12] miles; from thence about
euening they wound northward and sailed north and by east 5 [20] miles,
till the 18 of July in the morning; then they sailed north and by west
4 [16] miles, and there entred againe amongst a great many flakes of
ice, [300] from whence they wound southward, and close by the ice they
had no groūd at 150 fadom.
Then they sayled about 2 houres south-east, and east south-east, with
mystie weather, and came to a flake of ice, [301] which was so broad
that they could not see ouer it, it being faire still weather, and yet
it froze, and so sailed along by the ice 2 houres; after that it was so
mistie, that they could see nothing round about them, and sailed
south-west two [8] miles.
The same day William Barents tooke the height of the sun with his
astrolabium, and then they were under 77 degrees and a ¼ of the Pole,
[302] and sailed south-ward 6 [24] miles, and perceiued the firme land,
[303] lying south from them.
Then they sailed till the 19 of July in the morning, west south-west, 6
[24] or 7 [28] miles, with a north-west wind and mistie weather; and
after that south-west and south-west and by west 7 [28] miles, the
sunne being 77 degrees 5 minutes lesse. [304] Then they sailed 2 [8]
miles south-west, and were close by the land of Noua Zembla, about Cape
Nassaue. [305]
From thence they wound north-ward and sailed north 8 [32] miles, with a
west north-west wind and a mist, and till the 20 of July in the morning
north-east and by north 3 [12] or 4 [16] miles; and when the sunne was
east [½ p. 4, A.M.] they wound west, and till euening sailed south-west
5 [20] or 6 [24] miles, with mistie weather, and then south-west and by
south 7 [28] miles, till the 21 of July in the morning.
Then they wound north-ward againe, and from morning till euening sailed
north-west and by west 9 [36] miles, with mistie weather, and againe
north-west and by west [306] 3 [12] miles; and then wound south-ward,
and till the 22 of July in the morning sailed south south-west 3 [12]
miles, with mistie weather, and till euening south and by west, 9 [36]
miles, all mistie weather.
After that they wound north-ward againe, and sailed north-west and by
north 3 [12] miles, and then 2 [8] miles north-west; [307] and in the
morning being the 23 of July the wind blew north-west, and then they
cast out the lead, and had 48 fadome muddie ground.
Then they sailed 2 [8] miles north north-east and north and by east,
and 2 [8] miles north-east, at 46 fadome deepe; after that they wound
west-ward, and sailed west and by north 6 [24] miles; there it was 60
fadome deepe, muddy ground.
Then they wound eastward and sailed 3 [12] miles east and by north;
then againe 9 [36] or 10 [40] miles east, and east and by south; and
after that 5 [20] or 6 [24] miles east, and east and by south; and
after that 5 [20] or 6 [24] miles more, east and by south, till
euening, being the 24 of July; then againe 4 [16] miles south-east and
by east, the wind being east north-east.
Then they woond north-ward, and till the 25 of July in the morning
sailed north, and north and by west, 4 [16] miles; there they had 130
fadome deepe, muddie ground; then they sailed north-ward, where they
had 100 fadome deepe, and there they saw the ice in the north-east; and
then againe they sailed 2 [8] miles, north and by west.
Then they woond south-ward towards the ice, and sailed south-east one
mile [4 miles]; after that they wound north-ward againe, and sailed
north 6 [24] miles, and were so inclosed about with flakes of ice,
[308] that out of the top they could not discerne any thing beyond it,
and sought to get through the ice, but they could not passe beyond it,
and therefore in the evening they wound south-ward againe, and sailed
along by the ice, south and west by 5 [20] miles, and after that south
south-east 3 [12] miles.
The 25 of July at night, they took the height of the sunne, when it was
at the lowest between north and north-east, [309] and north-east and by
north, it being eleuated aboue the horizon 6 degrees and ¾, his
declinatiō being 19 degrees 50 minutes; now take 6 degrees ¾ from 19
degrees and 50 minutes, and there resteth 13 degrees 5 minutes, which
substracted from 90 there resteth 77 degrees lesse 5 minutes. [310]
The 26 of July, in the morning, they sailed 6 [24] miles south
south-east, till the sunne was south-west [1, P.M.], and then
south-east 6 [24] miles, and were within a mile of the land of Noua
Zembla, and then wound north-ward from the land, and sailed 5 [20]
miles north-west [311] with an east wind; but in the euening they wound
south-ward againe, and sailed south south-east 7 [28] miles, and were
close by the land.
Then they wound north-ward againe, and sailed north north-east 2 [8] or
3 [12] miles; from thence they wound south-ward, and sailed south
south-east 2 [8] or 3 [12] miles, and came againe to Cape Trust. [312]
Then they wounde againe from the land, north-east, about halfe a mile
[2 miles], and were ouer against the sandes of 4 fadome deepe, betweene
the rocke and the land, and there the sands were 10 fadome deepe, the
ground being small black stones; then they sailed north-west a little
while, till they had 43 fadome deepe, soft ground.
From thence they sailed north-east 4 [16] miles, upon the 27 of July,
with an east south-east wind, and wound south-ward againe, where they
found 70 fadome deepe, clay ground, and sayled south and south and by
east 4 [16] miles, and came to a great creek; and a mile and a halfe [6
miles] from thence there lay a banke of sande of 18 fadome deepe, clay
sandy ground, and betweene that sand or banke and the land it was 60
and 50 fadome deepe, the coast reaching east and west by the compasse.
In the euening they wound [stife [313]] north-ward, and sailed 3 [12]
miles north north-east; that day it was mistie, and in the night
cleare, and William Barents tooke the height of the sunne with his
crosse-staffe, [314] and found it to be eleuated aboue the horizon 5
degrees 40 minutes, his declination being 19 degrees 25 minutes, from
whence substracting 5 degrees 40 minutes, there resteth 13 degrees 45
minutes, which substracted from 90 rested 76 degrees 31 minutes [315]
for the height of the Pole.
Upon the 28 of July, they sailed 3 [12] miles north north-east, and
after that wound south-ward, and sailed 6 [24] miles south south-east,
and yet were then 3 [12] or 4 [16] miles from the land.
The 28 of July, the height of the sun being taken at noone with the
astrolobiū, it was found to be eleuated aboue the horizon 57 degrees
and 6 minutes, [316] her declination being 19 degrees and 18 minutes,
which in all is 76 degrees and 24 minutes, they being then about 4 [16]
miles from the land of Noua Zembla, that lay all couered ouer with
snow, the weather being cleare, and the wind east.
Then againe, the sunne being about south-west [1, P.M.], they wound
north-ward, and sailed one mile [4 miles] north north-east, and then
wound againe, and sailed another mile [4 miles] south-east, then they
wound north-ward againe, and sailed 4 [16] miles north-east and
north-east and by north. [317]
The same day [318] the height of the sunne being taken, it was found to
be 76 degrees and 24 minutes, and then they sailed north-east 3 [12]
miles, and after that north-east and by east 4 [16] miles, and vpon the
29 of July came into the ice againe.
The 29 of July the height of the sunne being taken with the
crosse-staffe, astrolabium, and quadrant, [319] they found it to bee
eleuated aboue the horizon 32 degrees, her declination being 19
degrees, which substracted from 32 there resteth 13 degrees of the
equator, which being substracted from 90 there rested 77 degrees; and
then the neerest north point of Noua Zembla, called the Ice Point,
[320] lay right east from them.
There they found certaine stones that glistered like gold, which for
that cause they named gold-stones, [321] and there also they had a
faire bay with sandy ground.
Upon the same day they wound south-ward againe, and sailed south-east
[322] 2 [8] miles betweene the land and the ice, and after that from
the Ice Point east, and to the south-ward [323] 6 [24] miles to the
Islands of Orange; and there they laboured forward [324] betweene the
land and the ice, with faire still weather, and vpon the 31 of July got
to the Islands of Orange. And there went to one of those islands, where
they found about 200 walrushen or sea-horses, lying upon the shoare to
baske [325] themselues in the sunne. This sea-horse is a wonderfull
strong monster of the sea, much bigger then an oxe, which keepes
continually in the seas, hauing a skinne like a sea-calfe or seale,
with very short hair, mouthed like a lyon, and many times they lie vpon
the ice; they are hardly killed vnlesse you strike them iust vpon the
forehead; it hath foure feet, but no eares, and commonly it hath one or
two young ones at a time. And when the fisher-men chance to find them
vpon a flake of ice [326] with their yong ones, shee casteth her yong
ones before her into the water, and then takes them in her armes, and
so plungeth vp and downe with them, and when shee will reuenge herselfe
vpon the boats, or make resistance against them, then she casts her
yong ones from her againe, and with all her force goeth towards the
boate; whereby our men were once in no small danger, for that the
sea-horse had almost stricken her teeth into the sterne of their boate,
thinking to ouerthrowe it; but by means of the great cry that the men
made, shee was afraid, and swomme away againe, and tooke her yong ones
againe in her armes. They haue two teeth sticking out of their mouthes,
on each side one, each beeing about halfe an elle long, and are
esteemed to bee as good as any iuorie or elophants teeth, specially in
Muscouia, Tartaria, and there abouts where they are knowne, for they
are as white, hard, and euen as iuory. [327]
Those sea-horses that lay basking [328] themselues vpon the land, our
men, supposing that they could not defend themselues being out of the
water, went on shore to assaile them, and fought with thē, to get their
teeth that are so rich, but they brake all their hatchets, curtle-axes,
[329] and pikes in pieces, and could not kill one of them, but strucke
some of their teeth out of their mouthes, which they tooke with them;
and when they could get nothing against them by fighting, they agreed
to goe aboard the ship, to fetch some of their great ordinance, to
shoot at them therewith; but it began to blow so hard, that it rent the
ice into great peices, so that they were forced not to do it; and
therewith they found a great white beare that slept, which they shot
into the body, but she ranne away, and entred into the water; the men
following her with their boat, and kil’d her out-right, and then drew
her vpon the ice, and so sticking a half pike vp-right, bound her fast
vnto it, thinking to fetch her when they came backe againe, to shoot at
the sea-horses with their ordinance; but for that it began more and
more to blow, and the ice therewith brake in peeces, they did nothing
at all.
After that W. Barents had begun this uoyage vpon the fifth of June,
1594, and at that time (as I sayd before) set saile out of the Texell,
the 23 of the same month arriving at Kilduin in Muscouia, and from
thence tooke his course on the north side of Noua Zembla, wherein he
continued till the first of August, with such aduentures as are before
declared, till he came to the Island of Orange: [330] after he had
taken all that paine, and finding that he could hardly get through, to
accomplish and ende his pretended [331] voyage, his men also beginning
to bee weary and would saile no further, they all together agreed to
returne back againe, to meet with the [Theire returne backe againe.]
other ships [332] that had taken their course to the Weygates, or
Straights of Nassawe, [333] to know what discoueries they had made
there.
The first of August they turned their course to saile backe againe from
the Islands of Orange, and sailed west and west by south 6 [24] miles
to the Ice Point.
From the Ice Point to the Cape of Comfort, [334] they sailed west and
somewhat south 30 [120] miles: betweene them both there lyeth very high
land, but the Cape of Comfort is very low flat land, and on the west
end thereof there standeth foure or fiue blacke houels or little hilles
like country houses. [335]
Upon the 3 of August, from the Cape of Comfort they wound north-ward,
and sailed 8 [32] miles north-west and by north, and north north-west;
and about noone they wound south-ward till euening, and sailed south
and by west, and south-south-west 7 [28] miles, and then came to a long
narrow point of land one Cape Nassaw. [336]
In the euening they wound north-ward againe, and sailed north and by
east 2 [8] miles; then the winde came north, and therefore they wound
west-ward againe, and sailed north north-west one mile [4 miles]; then
the wind turned east, and with that they sailed from the 4 of August in
the morning till noone west and by north 5 [20] or 6 [24] miles; after
that they sailed till euening south-west 5 [20] miles and after that
south-west 2 [8] miles more, and fell vpon a low flat land, which on
the east-end had a white patche or peece of ground.
After that they sailed till morning, being the 5 of August, west
south-west 12 [48] miles, [337] then south-west 14 [56] miles, and then
west 3 [12] miles till the 6 of August.
The 6 of August they sailed west south-west 2 [8] or 3 [12] miles; then
south-west, and south-west and by south, 4 [16] or 5 [20] miles; then
south-west and by west 3 [12] miles, and then south-west and by west 3
[12] miles; and after that west south-west and south-west and by south
3 [12] miles, till the 7 of August.
The 7 of August till noone they sailed 3 [12] miles west south-west,
then 3 [12] miles west, and then they wound south-ward till euening,
and sailed 3 [12] miles south-east and south-east and by east, then
againe west south-west 2 [8] miles, after that they sailed south 3 [12]
miles, till the 8 of August in the morning, with a west south-west
winde.
The 8 of August they sailed south-east and by south 10 [40] miles, and
then south-east and by east vntil euening 5 [20] miles, and then came
to a low flat land, that lay south-west and by south, and north-east
and by north, and so sailed 5 [20] miles more, and there they had 36
fadome deepe, 2 [8] miles from the land, the ground blacke sand; There
they sailed towards the land, till they were at 12 fadome, and halfe a
mile [2 miles] from the land it was stony ground.
From thence the land reacheth south-ward for 3 [12] miles, to the other
low point that had a blacke rocke lying close by it; and from thence
the land reacheth south south-east 3 [12] miles, to another point; and
there lay a little low island from the point, and within halfe a mile
[2 miles] of the land it was flat ground, at 8, 9, and 10 fadome deepe,
which they called the Black Island, [338] because it showed blacke
aboue; then it was very mistie, so that they lay in the wind [339] and
sailed 3 [12] miles west north-west; but when it cleared vp, they wound
towards the land againe, and the sunne being south [¼ to 11 A.M.], they
came right against the Blacke Island, and had held their course east
south-east.
There W. Barents tooke the height of the sunne, it being vnder 71
degrees and ⅓; and there they found a great creeke, which William
Barents iudged to be the place where Oliuer Brunel [340] had been
before, called Costincsarth. [341]
From the Blacke Island, they sailed south and south and by east to
another small [342] point 3 [12] miles, on which point there stood a
crosse, and therefore they called it the Crosse Point; [343] there also
there was a flat bay, and low water, [344] 5, 6, or 7 fadome deep, soft
ground. [345]
From Crosse Point they sailed along by the land south south-east 4 [16]
miles, and then came to another small [346] point, which behinde it had
a great creeke, that reached east-ward: this point they called the
Fifth Point or S. Laurence Point. [347] From the Fifth Point they
sailed to the Sconce Point [348] 3 [12] miles, south south-east, and
there lay a long blacke rocke close by the land, whereon there stood a
crosse; then they entered into the ice againe, and put inward to the
sea [349] because of the ice. Their intent was to saile along the coast
of Noua Zembla to the Wey-gates, but by reason that the ice met them
they wound west-ward, and from the 9 of August in the euening, till the
10 of August in the morning, sayled west and by north 11 [44] miles,
and after that 4 [16] miles west north-west, and north-west and by
west, the winde being north; in the morning [350] they wound east-warde
againe, and sailed vntill euening 10 [40] miles east and east and by
south; after that east and east and by north 4 [16] miles, and there
they saw land, and were right against a great creeke, where with their
boat they went on land, and there found a faire hauen 5 fadome deepe,
sandy ground. This creeke on the north side hath 3 blacke points, and
about the 3 points [351] lyeth the road, but you must keepe somewhat
from the 3 point, for it is stonie, and betweene the 2 and 3 point
there is another faire bay, for north-west, north, and north-east
winds, blacke sandy ground. This bay they called S. Laurence Bay, and
there they tooke the height of the sunne, which was 70 degrees and ¾.
From S. Laurence Bay, south south-east 2 [8] miles to Sconce Point,
there lay a long [352] blacke rocke, close by the land, [353] whereon
there stood a crosse; there they went on land with their boat, and
perceiued that some men had bin there, and that they were fled to saue
themselues; [354] for there they found 6 sacks with rie-meale buried in
the ground, and a heap of stones by the crosse, and a bullet for a
great piece, and there abouts also there stood another crosse, [355]
with 3 houses made of wood, after the north-countrey manner: and in the
houses they found many barrels of pike-staues, [356] whereby they
coniectured that there they vsed to take salmons, [357] and by them
stood 5 or 6 coffins, by graues, [358] with dead men’s bones, the
coffins standing vpon the ground all filled vp with stones; there also
lay a broken Russia ship, [359] the keele thereof being 44 foot long,
but they could see no man on the land: it is a faire hauen for all
winds, which they called the Meale-hauen, [360] because of the meale
that they found there.
From the black rocke or cliffe with the crosse, 2 [8] miles south
south-east, there lay a low island a little into the sea, from whence
they sailed 9 [36] or 10 [40] miles south south-east; there the height
of the sunne [361] was 70 degrees and 50 minutes, when it was south
south-west.
From that island they sailed along by the land 4 [16] miles south-east
and by south; there they came to 2 islands, whereof the uttermost lay a
mile [4 miles] from the land; those islands they called S. Clara.
Then they entered into the ice again, and wound inward to sea, in the
wind, [362] and sailed from the island [363] vntill evening, west
south-west 4 [16] miles, the wind being north-west; that evening it was
very mistie, and then they had 80 fadom deepe.
Then againe they sailed south-west and by west, and west south-west 3
[12] miles; there they had 70 fadome deepe, and so sayled till the
thirteenth of August in the morning, south-west and by west foure [16]
miles; two houres before they had ground at fiftie sixe fadome, and in
the morning at fortie five fadome, soft muddy ground.
Then they sayled till noone sixe [24] miles south-west, and had twentie
foure fadome deepe, black sandie ground; and within one houre after
they had two and twentie fadome deepe, browne reddish sand; then they
sailed sixe [24] miles south-west, with fifteene fadome deepe, red
sand; after that two [8] miles south-west, and there it was fifteene
fadome deepe, red sand, and there they sawe land, and sayled forward
south-west untill evening, till we were within halfe a mile [2 miles]
of the land, and there it was seven fadome deepe, sandy ground, the
land being low flat downes reaching east and west.
Then they wound from the land and sailed north, and north and by east 4
[16] miles; from thence they wound to land againe, and sayled til the
14 of August 5 [20] or 6 [24] miles south-west, sailing close by the
land, which (as they gesse [364]) was the island of Colgoyen; [365]
there they sailed by the lād east-ward 4 [16] miles; after that 3 [12]
miles east, and east and by south; then the weather became mistie,
whereby they could not see the land, and had shallow flat water [366]
at 7 or 8 fadome; then they took in the marsaile [367] and lay in the
wind [368] till it was cleare weather againe, and then the sunne was
south south-west [¾ p. 11 a.m.], yet they could not see the land: there
they had 100 fadome deepe, sandy ground; then they sailed east 7 [28]
miles; after that againe 2 [8] miles east south-east, and south-east
and by east; and againe till the 15 of August in the morning, 9 [36]
miles east south-east; then from morning till noone they sailed 4 miles
east south-east, and sailed over a flat or sand of 9 or 10 fadome
deepe, sandy ground, but could see no land; and about an houre before
noone it began to waxe deeper, for then wee had 12 and 13 fadome water,
and then wee sayled east south-east 3 [12] miles, till the sunne was
south-west [1 p.m.].
The same daye the sunne being south-west, [369] William Barents tooke
the height thereof, and found it to be elevated above the horizon 35
degrees, his declination being 14 degrees and ¼, so yt as there wanted
55 degrees of 90, which 55 and 14 degrees and ¼ being both added
together, made 69 degrees 15 minutes, which was the height of the Pole
in that place, the wind being north-west; then they sailed 2 [8] miles
more east-ward, and came to the islands called Matfloe and Delgoy,
[370] and there in the morning they meet with the other shippes of
their company, being of Zelandt and Enck-huysen, [371] that came out of
Wey-gates the same day; there they shewed each other where they had
bin, and how farre each of them had sailed, and discouered.
The ship of Enck-huysen had past the straights of Wey-gates, and said,
that at the end of Wey-gates he had found a large sea, [372] and that
they had sailed 50 [200] or 60 [240] miles further east-ward, and were
of opinion that they had been about the riuer of Obi, [373] that
commeth out of Tartaria, and that the land of Tartaria reacheth
north-east-ward againe from thence, whereby they thought that they were
not far from Cape Tabin, [374] which is ye point [375] of Tartaria,
that reacheth towards the kingdom of Chathai, north-east and then
south-ward. [376] And so thinking that they had discouered inough for
that time, and that it was too late in the yeare to saile any further,
as also that their commission was to discouer the scituation, and to
come home againe before winter, they turned againe towards the
Wei-gates, and came to an island about 5 miles great, lying south-east
from Wei-gates on the Tartarian side, and called it the States Island;
[377] there they found many stones, that were of a cristale mountaine,
[378] being a kind of diamont.
When they were met together (as I sayd before) they made signes of ioy,
discharging some of their ordinance, and were merry, the other shippes
thinking that William Barents had sailed round about Noua Zembla, and
had come backe againe through the Wei-gates: and after they had shewed
each other what they had done, and made signs of ioy for their meeting,
they set their course to turne backe againe for Holland; and vpon the
16 of August they went vnder the islands of Matfloe and Delgoy, and put
into the road, because the wind was north-west, and lay there till the
18 of August.
The 18 of August they set saile, and went forward west north-west, and
almost west and by north, and so sailed 12 [48] miles; and then west
and by south 6 [24] miles, and came to a sand of scarce 5 fadome deepe,
with a north-west wind; and in the evening they wound northward, and
sailed east north-east 7 [28] or 8 [32] miles, the wind being
northerly; and then they wound westward, and sailed till the 19 of
August in the morning, west 2 [8] miles; then 2 [8] miles south-west,
and after that 2 [8] miles south-east; there they wound west-ward
againe, and sailed till evening with a calme, and after that had an
east winde, and at first sailed west north-west, and north-west and by
west 6 [24] or 7 [28] miles, and had ground at 12 fadome: then till the
20 of August in the morning, they sayled west north-west, and
north-west and by west, 7 [28] miles with an easterly wind; and then
againe sailed west north-west, and north-west and by west 7 [28] miles;
then west north-west 4 [16] miles, and draue [379] forward till euening
with a calme: after that they sailed west north-west and north-west and
by west 7 [28] miles, and in the night time came to a sand of 3 fadome
deepe right against the land, and so sailed along by it, first one mile
north, then 3 [12] miles north north-west, and it was sandy hilly land,
and many points: [380] and then sailed on forward with 9 or 10 fadome
deepe, along by the land till noone, being the 21 of August, north-west
5 [20] miles; and the west point of the land, called Candinaes, [381]
lay north-west [382] from them 4 [16] miles.
From thence they sailed 4 [16] miles north north-west, and then
north-west and by north 4 [16] miles, and 3 [12] miles more north-west,
and north-west and by north, and then north-west 4 [16] miles, til the
22 of August in the morning: and that morning they sailed north-west 7
[28] miles, and so till euening west north-west and north-west and by
west 15 [60] miles, the wind being north; after that 8 [32] miles more,
west north-west; and then till the 23 of August at noone, west
north-west 11 [44] miles, the same day at noone the sunne was eleuated
aboue the horizon 31 degrees and ⅓ part, his declination was 11 degrees
and ⅔ partes; so that it wanted 58 degrees and ⅔ of 90 degrees, and
adding the declination being 11 degrees ⅔ to 58 degrees and ⅔ partes,
then the height of the Pole was 70 degrees and ⅓ part: then they sailed
north-west, and north-west and by west, till euening 8 [32] miles; and
then north-west and by west, and west north-west 5 [20] miles; and then
vntill the 24 of August in the morning, north-west and by west 6 [24]
miles; after that west, and west south-west 3 [12] miles, and then
passed close by the island of Ware-huysen [383] in the roade. From
Ware-huysen hither-ward, because the way is well knowne, I neede not to
write thereof, but that from thence they sailed altogether homeward,
and kept company together till they came to the Texel, where the ship
of Zelandt [The end of this voyage] past by, and William Barents with
his pinnace came vpon a faire day, [384] being the 16 of September,
before Amsterdam, and the ship of Enck-huysen to Enck-huysen, from
whence they were set foorth. William Barents’ men brought a sea-horse
to Amsterdam, being of a wonderfull greatnesse, which they tooke vpon a
flake of ice, and killed it.
A BRIEFE DECLARATION OF
A SECOND NAUIGATION MADE IN ANNO
1595, Behinde Norway, Moscouia,
and Tartaria, towards the kingdoms
of Cathaia and China.
The 4 ships aforesaid being returned home about harvest-time, in anno
1594, they were in good hope that the voiage aforesaid would be done,
by passing along through the Straights of Weygates, and specially by
the report made by the 2 ships of Zelandt and Enck-huysen, wherein John
Huyghen of Linschoten was committed, [385] who declared the manner of
their trauell in such sort, [386] that the Generall States and Prince
Maurice resolued, in the beginning of the next yeare, to prepare
certaine ships, not only (as they went before) to discouer the passage,
but to send certaine wares and merchandises thither, wherein the
marchants might lade what wares they would, with certaine factors to
sell the saide wares, in such places as they should arrive, neither
paying fraight nor custome. Peter Plantins, [387] a learned
cosmographer, being a great furtherer and setter forward of this
uoiage, and was their chiefe instructer therein, setting downe the
scituation of the coasts of Tartaria, Cathaia, and China; but how they
lye it is not yet sufficiently discouered, for that the courses and
rules by him set downe were not fully effected, by meanes of some
inconueniencies that fell out, which, by reason of the shortnesse of
time could not be holpen. The reasons that some men (not greatly
affected to this uoyage) vse to propound, to affirme it not possible to
be done, are taken (as they say) out of some old and auncient writers:
which is, yt 350 miles [388] at the least of the North Pole on both
sides are not to be sailed, which appeareth not to be true, for that
the White Sea, and farther north-ward, is now sayled and daily fisht
in, cleane contrary to the writings and opinions of auncient writers;
yea, and how many places hath bin discouered that were not knowne in
times past? It is also no marueile (as in the beginning of the first
description of this uoyage I haue sayd), [389] that vnder the North
Pole for 23 degrees, it is as cold on both sides, one as the other,
although it hath not beene fully discouered. Who would beleeue that in
the Periudan mountaines, [390] and the Alpes, that lye betweene Spaine,
Italie, Germanie, and France, there is so great cold, that the snow
thereon neuer melteth, and yet lye a great deale nearer the sunne, then
the countries lying on the North Seas doe, being low countries. [391]
By what meanes then is it so cold in those hilles? onely by meanes of
the deepe uallies, wherein the snow lyes so deepe, that the sunne
cannot shine upon the ground, by reason that the high hilles keepe the
sunne from shining on them. So it is (as I iudge) with the ice in the
Tartarian Seas, which is also called the Ice Sea, about Noua Zembla,
where the ice that commeth into those seas out of the riuers that are
in Tartaria and Cathaia, can not melt, by reason of the great quantitie
thereof, and for that the sun sheweth not high aboue those places, and
therefore casteth not so great a heat, as it can easily melt: which is
the cause that the ice lyeth there still, as the snowe doth in the
hilles of Spaine aforesayd, and that the sayd ice maketh it farre
colder there, then it is a greate deal neerer the Pole in the large
seas; [392] and although those places that are not discouered, cannot
bee so well described as if they were discouered, yet I thought good to
say thus much for a memoriall; and now I will proceed to the
declaration of the second uoyage made into the North Seas. [393]
In anno 1595, the generall States of the vnited prouinces, and Prince
Maurice, caused seuen shippes to bee prepared to sayle through the
Wey-gates, or the Straights of Nassaue, [394] to the kingdome of
Cathaia and China: two out of Amsterdam, two out of Zelandt, two out of
Enck-huysen, and one out of Roterdam: sixe of them laden with diuers
kindes of wares, marchandizes, and with money, and factors to sell the
said wares; the seuenth beeing a pinace, that had commission, when the
other shippes were past about the Cape de Tabin [395] (which is the
furthest point of Tartaria), or so farre that they might saile foorth
southward without any let or hinderance of the ice, to turne backe
againe, and to bring newes thereof. And I being in William Barents
ship, that was our chiefe pilote, [396] and James Hems-kerke chiefe
factor, [397] thought good to write downe the same in order as it is
here after declared, as I did the first uoyage, according to the course
and stretching of the land as it lyeth.
First, after we had been mustered at Amsterdam, and euery man taken an
oath that was then purposely ministered vnto vs, [398] vpon the 18 of
June wee sailed to the Texel, from thence to put to sea with other
ships that were appointed to meet vs at a certaine day; and so to begin
our uoiage in the name of God.
The 2 of July, wee set saile out of the Texel, in the morning at breake
of day, holding our course north-west and by north, and sayled about
sixe [24] miles.
After that wee sailed north north-west 18 [72] miles, till the 3 of
July in the morning, being then as we esteemed vnder 55 degrees; then
the wind being north-west, and north north-west, calme weather, we
sailed west and west and by south 4 [16] miles, till the 4 of July in
the morning: after that, the winde being north north-west and rather
more northerly, wee sayled west and west and by north 15 [60] miles,
till the 5 of July in the morning, and after that 8 [32] miles more,
till the sunne was west [¼ to 4 P.M.]
Then we wound about and sailed 10 [40] miles north-east, till the 6 of
July in the morning, and so held on our course for the space of 24 [96]
miles till the 7 July, the sunne being south [¾ p. 10 A.M.], and held
the same course for 8 [32] miles, till midnight.
Then wee wound about and sailed west south-west fourteene [56] miles,
till the ninth of July in the morning; and then againe wee wound
north-eastward till evening, and so sayled about tenne [40] miles.
And then eighteene [72] miles more, east-ward, [399] till the tenth of
July in the euening; then we wound about againe and sailed south-west,
eight [32] miles, till the 11 of July, the sunne then being south-east
[½ p. 7 A.M.]
Then wee wound north and north and by east, about sixteene [64] miles,
till the twelue of July, [400] and then north and by west tenne [40]
miles.
The 13 of July wee wound about againe, and sailed south-west and west
south-west 10 [40] miles, till about three houres before euening; then
wee wound againe, and sailed north north-east 10 [40] miles, till the
14 of July, the sunne being south south-east [9 A.M.], and then north
and by east and north north-east 18 [72] miles, till the 15 of July in
the morning: after that north and by east 12 [48] miles vntill euening;
then wee saw Norway, and then wee sayled north and by east 18 [72]
miles, till the 16 of July in the euening; at that time the sunne being
north-west [½ p. P.M.]; and vpon the 17 of July, north-east and
north-east and by north, 24 [96] miles, till the sunne was in the west
[¾ p. 3 P.M.]
Then againe wee sayled north-east, [401] 20 [80] miles, till the 18 of
July, the sunne being north-west; from thence wee sayled north-west and
by north 18 [72] miles, till the 19 of July, when the sunne was west.
From thence againe we wound about, north-east and by north and
north-east, till the 20 of July, while sixe glasses were run out, in
the first quarter, [402] and then stayed for our pinnace, that could
not follow vs because the wind blew so stiffe: that quarter [403] being
out, we saw our company lying to lee-ward, [404] to stay for vs, and
when wee were gotten to them, wee helde our course (as before) till
euening and sailed about 30 [120] miles.
Then we sayled south-east and by east 26 [104] miles, till the 21 of
July in the euening, when we set our watch, and held on the same course
for 10 [40] miles till the 22 of July, the sun being south south-east
[9 A.M.]: the same euening, [405] the sun being south south-west [¾ p.
11 A.M.], we saw a great whale right before our bough, [406] that lay
and slept, which by the rushing of the ship that made towards it, and
the noyse of our men, awaked and swamme away, or els wee must haue
sailed full vpon her; and so wee sayled eight [32] miles, till the
sunne was north north-west [¼ p. 9 P.M.].
The twenty-third [407] of July wee sayled south-east and by south
fifteene [60] miles, till the sunne was south south-west and saw land
about foure [16] miles from vs. Then wee wound of from the land, when
the sunne was about south south-west, and sayled twentie-foure [96]
miles till euening, that the sunne was north-west. [408]
After that we sayled north-ward tenne [40] miles, till the twenty-fifth
[409] of July at noone, and then north north-west eight [32] miles,
till mid-night; then wee wound about againe, and sayled east south-east
and south-east and by south, till the twenty sixe of July, the sunne
being south, and had the sunne at seauentie one degrees and ¼. [410]
The sunne being south south-west, wee wounde about againe and sayled
north-east and by north, till the seauen and twentie of July, the sunne
being south; being vnder 72 degrees and ⅓ partes. [411]
After that, wee sayled full north-east [412] 16 [64] myles, till the 28
of July, the sunne being east [½ p. 4 A.M.]. Then we wound about againe
south and by east, till the sunne was north-west, and sayled 8 [32]
miles. After that, south-east and by south 18 [72] miles, till the 29
[413] of July at midnight.
After that, we wound about againe, east and by north, and sayled eight
[32] miles, till the 30 of July, when the sunne was north [½ p. 10
P.M.]; then we wound south south-east, with [414] calme weather, till
the 31 of July, that the sunne was west north-west [415] [5 P.M.], and
sayled sixe [24] miles.
From thence wee sayled east-ward 8 [32] myles, till the first of August
about midnight, in calme faire weather, and saw Trumpsand [416]
south-east from vs, the sunne being north [½ p. 10 P.M.], and wee being
tenne [40] miles from the land; and so sayled till the sunne was east
[½ p. 7 P.M.], with a litle cold gale [417] out of the east north-east;
and after that, south-east 9 miles and a halfe [38 miles], till the
sunne was north-west.
Then we wound about againe, being halfe a mile [2 miles] from the land,
and sayled east and by north three [12] miles, till the 3 of August,
the sunne south-west [1 P.M.]; and then along by the land about 5 [20]
miles.
Then we wound about again, because there lay a rocke or sand, that
reached about a mile and a halfe [6 miles] out from the land into the
sea, whereon Isbrant, the uize-admiral, [418] stroke with his shippe:
but the weather being faire and good, he got off againe. When he stroke
vpon it, he was a litle before vs: and when we heard him cry out, and
saw his shippe in danger, wee in all haste wound about; and the wind
being north-east and by east, and south-east, and south-east and by
south, [419] wee sayled 5 [20] or 6 [24] myles along by the land, till
the sunne was south, vpon the 4 of August.
Then we tooke the height of the sunne, and found it to be seauentie and
one degrees and ¼. At which time till noone [420] wee had calme
weather: and hauing the wind southerly wee sayled east and by north,
till the fifth of August, the sunne being south-east [½ p. 7 A.M.], the
North Cape [421] lying about two [8] miles east from vs; and when the
sunne was north-west [½ p. 7 P.M.], the Mother and her Daughters [422]
lay south-ward from vs four [16] miles, and in that time we sailed
about fourteene [56] miles.
Then we sailed east north-east till the 6 of August, when wee had the
sunne west north-west [5 P.M.], and then Isbrandt, the uize-admiral,
came to vs with his ship, and so bating some of our sayles, [423] wee
sayled about 10 [40] miles.
Then wee hoysed vp our sayles againe, [424] till the sunne was
north-west, and after that halde vp againe [425] with an east and east
north-east wind, and sailed south and by west with a stiffe gale till
the 7 of August, that the sunne was south-east; then there came a ship
of Enckhuysen out of the White Sea, and then we esteemed that wee had
sailed about 8 [32] miles.
The sunne being south [¾ p. 10 A.M.], the North Cape lay south-west and
by south from vs about a mile and a halfe [6 miles], and the Mother and
her Daughters south-west from vs about 3 [12] miles; then hauing an
east and by north wind we wound about, and held our course north and by
east, and sailed 14 [56] miles till the 8 of August, when the sunne was
south-west [1 P.M.]; then we wound south and by east, and so held her
course till the 9 of August, that the sunne was south; and then we saw
a high point of land south-east from vs, and another high point of land
south-ward, [426] about 4 [16] miles from vs, as we gest, [427] and so
we sailed about 14 [56] miles: and then againe we wound north-east and
by north, till the 10 of August, the sun being east [½ p. 4 A.M.], and
sailed about 8 [32] miles; after that we wound south-ward againe, till
the sunne was north-west [½ p. 7 P.M.], and sailed, as we gest, 10 [40]
miles.
Then wee wound about againe, when the North Cape lay west and by south
from vs about 9 [36] miles, the North-kyen [428] being south and by
west from vs about 3 [12] miles, and sailed north north-east till the
11 of August, in very mistie weather 10 [40] miles, till the sunne was
south [¾ p. 10 A.M.]
From thence wee wound about againe, with an east north-east wind, and
sailed south-east and by south 8 [32] miles, till the sunne was
south-west [1 P.M.] vpon the 12 of August; then the North-kyen lying
south-west and by south from vs about 8 [32] miles, we lay and draue at
sea, in calme weather, [429] till the 13 of August, when the sunne was
south south-west [¾ p. 11 A.M.], and in that time sailed about 4 [32]
miles.
Then we sailed south-east and by east about 4 glasses, [430] and the
Iron-hogge with her companie (being marchants) [431] took their course
south-ward, and wee sailed till the 14 of August (when the sunne was
south) about 18 [72] miles, and from thence for the most part held one
course till the 15 of August, the sunne being east, and there we cast
out the lead and found 70 fadome deepe, and sailed 38 [152] miles till
the sunne was south.
The sunne being south, [432] and the height thereof being taken, it was
found to be 70 degrees and 47 minutes; then in the night time wee cast
out the lead, and found ground at 40 fadome, it being a bancke; the
sunne being north-west [½ p. 7 P.M.], we cast out the lead againe and
had ground at 64 fadome, and so wee went on east south-east till the 16
of August, the sunne being north-east [½ p. 1 A.M.], and there the line
being out, we found no ground at 80 fadome; and after that we sailed
east and east and by south, and in that time wee cast the lead often
times out, and found ground at 60 and 70 fadome, either more or lesse,
and so sailed 36 [144] miles, till the sunne was south.
Then we sailed east, and so continued till the 17 of August, the sunne
being east [½ p. 4 A.M.] and cast out our lead, and found 60 fadome
deepe, clay [433] ground; and then taking the height of the sunne, when
it was south-west and by south, we found it to be 69 degrees and 54
minutes, and there we saw great store of ice all along the coast of
Noua Zembla, and casting out the lead had 75 fadome soft[1] ground, and
so sayled about 24 [96] miles.
After that we held diuers courses because of the ice, and sayled
south-east and by east and south south-east for the space of 18 [72]
miles, till the 18 of August, when the sunne was east, and then wee
cast out the lead againe, and found 30 fadome soft [434] ground, and
within two houres after that 25 fadome, red sand, with small shels;
[435] three glasses [436] after that we had ground at 20 fadome, red
sand with blacke shels, [437] as before; then we saw 2 islands, which
they of Enckhuysen gaue the names of Prince Maurice and his brother,
[438] which lay from us south-east 3 [12] miles, being low land, and
then we sailed 8 [32] miles, till the sunne was south. [¾ p. 10 A.M.]
Then we sailed east, and oftentimes casting out the lead we found 20,
19, 18, and 17 fadome deepe, good grounde mixed with blacke shels,
[439] and saw the Wey-gates (the sunne being west) [¾ p. 3 P.M.], which
lay east north-east from vs about 5 [20] miles; and after that we
sailed about 8 [32] miles.
Then we sailed vnder 70 degrees, [440] vntill we came to the Wey-gates,
most part through broken ice; and when we got to Wey-gates, we cast out
our lead, and for a long time found 13 and 14 fadome, soft [441] ground
mixed with blacke shels; [442] not long after that wee cast out the
lead and found 10 fadome deepe, the wind being north, and we forced to
hold stifly aloofe, [443] in regard of the great quantity of ice, till
about midnight; then we were forced to wind north-ward, because of
certaine rocks that lay on the south side of Wey-gates, right before vs
about a mile and a halfe [6 miles], hauing ten fadome deepe: then wee
changed our course, and sailed west north-west for the space of 4
glasses, [444] after that we wound about againe east and east and by
south, and so entred into Wey-gates, and as wee went in, we cast out
the lead, and found 7 fadome deepe, little more or lesse, till the 19
of August; and then the sunne being south-east [½ p. 7 A.M.] we entered
into the Wey-gates, in the road, the wind being north.
The right chanell betweene the Image Point [445] and the Samuters land
[446] was full of ice, so that it was not well [447] to be past
through, and so we went into the road, which we called the Trayen Bay,
[448] because we found store of trayen-oyle there: this is a good bay
for the course of the ice, [449] and good almost for all windes, and we
may saile so farre into it as we will at 4, 5, and 3 fadome, good
anchor-ground: on the east side it is deepe [450] water.
The 20 of August, the height of the sunne being taken with the
crosse-staffe, [451] wee found that it was eleuated aboue the horizon
69 degrees 21 minuts, [452] when it was south-west and by south, being
at the highest, or before it began to descend.
The 21 of August we went on land within the Wey-gates [453] with foure
and fiftie men, to see the scituation of the countrey, and being 2 [8]
miles within the land, we found many vel-werck trayen, and such like
wares, [454] and diuers footsteps of men and deere; whereby wee
perceived that some men dwelt thereabouts, or else vsed to come
thither.
And to assure vs the more thereof, wee might perceiue it by the great
number of images, which we found there upon the Image or Beelthooke
[455] (so called by us) in great aboundance, whereof ten dayes after we
were better informed by the Samuters [456] and the Russians, when we
spake with them.
And when wee entered further [457] into the land, wee vsed all the
meanes we could, to see if we could find any houses, or men, by whom
wee might bee informed of the scituation of the sea [458] there abouts;
whereof afterwards wee had better intelligence by the Samuters, that
tolde vs, that there are certaine men dwelling on the Wey-gates, [459]
and vpon Noua Zembla; but wee could neither finde men, houses, nor any
other things; so that to have better information, we went with some of
our men further south-east into the land, towards the sea-side; [460]
and as we went, we found a path-way made with mens feete in the mosse
or marsh-ground, about halfe knee deepe, for that going so deepe wee
felt hard ground vnder our feete, which at the deepest was no higher
than our shoes; and as wee went forward to the sea coast, wee were
exceeding glad, thinking that wee had seene a passage open, where wee
might get through, because we saw so little ice there: and in the
euening entering into our ship againe, wee shewed them that newes.
Meanetime our maister [461] had sent out a boat to see if the Tartarian
Sea [462] was open, but it could not get into the sea because of the
ice, yet they rowed to the Crosse-point, [463] and there let the boate
lye, and went ouer the land to the West Point, [464] and there
perceiued that the ice in the Tartarian Sea lay full vpon the Russian
coastes, and in the mouth of Wey-gates.
The twentie three of August wee found a lodgie [465] or boate of
Pitzore, [466] which was sowed together with bast or ropes, [467] that
had beene north-ward to seeke for some sea-horses teeth, trayen, [468]
and geese, which they fetcht with their boat, to lade in certaine
shippes that were to come out of Russia, through Wey-gates.
Which shippes they sayd (when they spake with vs), were to saile into
the Tartarian Sea, by the riuer of Oby, [469] to a place called Vgolita
[470] in Tartaria, there to stay all winter, as they vsed to doe euery
yeere: and told vs that it would yet bee nine or tenne weekes ere it
began to freeze in that place, and that when it once began to freeze,
it would freeze so hard, that as then men might goe ouer the sea into
Tartaria (along vpon the ice), which they called Mermare. [471]
The 24 of August in the morning betimes, we went on board of the
lodgie, to haue further information and instruction of the sea on the
east side of Wey-gates, and they gaue vs good instruction such as you
haue heard.
The 25 of August we went againe to the lodgie, and in friendly maner
spake with them, we for our parts offering them friendship; and then
they gaue vs 8 fat geese, [472] that lay in the bottome of their boat:
we desired that one or two of them would goe with vs on board our ship,
and they willingly went with vs to the number of seuen; and being in
our ship they wondered much at the greatnesse and furniture of our
ship: and after they had seene and looked into it in euery place, [473]
we set fish, [474] butter, and cheese before them to eat, but they
refused it, saying that that day was a fasting day with them; but at
last when they saw some of our pickled-herrings, they eat them, both
heads, tayles, skin, and guts; [475] and hauing eaten thereof, we gaue
them a small ferkin of herrings, for the which they gaue vs great
thankes, knowing not what friendship they should doe vs to requite our
courtesie, and we brought them with our pinnace into the Traen-Bay.
About noone wee hoysed vp our anchors with a west north-west wind; the
course or stretching of Wey-gates is east to the Cruis point, [476] and
then north-east to the Twist point, [477] and somewhat more easterly:
From thence the land of Wey-gates reacheth north north-east, and north
and by east, and then north, and somewhat westerly; we sayled
north-east and east-ward [478] 2 [8] miles, by the Twist point, but
then we were compelled to saile backe again, because of the great store
of ice, and tooke our course to our road aforesaid; and sayling backe
againe wee found a good place by the Crosse point to anchor in, that
night.
The 26 of August in the morning we hoysed anchor, and put out our
forke-saile, [479] and so sailed to our old road, there to stay for a
more conuenient time.
The 28, 29, and 30 of August till the 31, the winde for the most part
was south-west, and William Barents our captaine sayled to the south
side of Wey-gates, and there went on land, [480] where wee found
certaine wilde men (called Samuters), [481] and yet not altogether
wilde, for they being 20 in number staid and spake with our men, being
but 9 together, about a mile [4 miles] within the land, our men not
thinking to find any men there (for that we had at other times beene on
land in the *Wey-gates, and saw none); at last, it being mistie
weather, they perceiued men, [482] fiue and fiue in a company, and we
were hard by them before [483] we knew it. Then our interpreter went
alone towards them to speake with them; which they perceiuing sent one
towardes vs, who comming almost to our men, tooke an arrow out of his
quiuer, offering to shoote at him; wherewith our interpretor, being
without armes, was afraide, and cryed vnto him, saying (in Russian
speach), shoote not, we are friends: which the other hearing, cast his
bow and arrowes to the ground, therewith giuing him to vnderstand that
he was well content to speake with our man: which done, our man called
to him once againe, and sayd, we are friendes; whereunto he made
answere and sayd, then you are welcome: and saluting one the other,
bended both their heades downe towardes the ground, after the Russian
manner. This done, [484] our interpreter questioned with him about the
scituation and stretching of the sea east-ward through the straightes
of Wey-gates; whereof he gaue vs good instruction, saying, that when
they should haue past a poynt of land about 5 dayes sayling from thence
(shewing [485] north-eastward), that after that, there is a great sea
(shewing towardes the south-east vpward [486]); saying, that hee knew
it very well, for that one had been there that was sent thither by
their king with certaine souldiers, [487] whereof he had been captaine.
The maner of their apparell is like as we vse to paint wild men; but
they are not [488] wilde, for they are of reasonable iudgement. They
are apparelled in hartes [489] skins from the head to the feete,
vnlesse it be the principallest of them, which are apparelled, whether
they bee men or women, like vnto the rest, as aforesayd, vnlesse it bee
on their heads, which they couer with certaine coloured cloth lyned
with furre: the rest wear cappes of hartes or buckes skinnes, the rough
side outwardes, which stand close to their heades, and are very fitte.
They weare long hayre, which they plaite and fold and let it hang downe
vpon their backes. They are (for the most part all) short and low of
stature, with broad flat faces, small eyes, short legges, their knees
standing outwards; and are very quicke to goe and leape. They trust not
strangers: for although that wee shewed them all the courtesie and
friendship that wee could, yet they trusted vs not much: which wee
perceiued hereby, that as vpon the first of September we went againe on
land to them, and that one of our men desired to see one of their
bowes, they refused it, making a signe that they would not doe it. Hee
that they called their king, had centinels standing abroad, to see what
was done in the countrie, and what was bought and sould. At last, one
of our men went neerer to one of the centinels, to speake with him, and
offered him great friendship, according to their accustomed manner;
withall giuing him a bisket, which he with great thankes tooke, and
presently eate it, and while he eate it, hee still lookt diligently
about him on all sides what was done.
Their sleades [490] stood alwayes ready with one or two hartes in them,
that runne so swiftly with one or two men in them, that our horses were
not able to follow them. One of our men shot a musket towards the sea,
wherewith they were in so great feare that they ranne and leapt like
mad men; yet at last they satisfied themselues when they perceiued that
it was not maliciously done to hurt them: and we told them by our
interpretor, that we vsed our peeces in stead of bowes, whereat they
wondered, because of the great blow and noyse that it gaue and made:
and to shew them what we could doe therewith, one of our men tooke a
flatte stone about halfe a handfull broad, and set it vpon a hill a
good way off from him: which they perceiuing, and thinking that wee
meant some-what thereby, 50 or 60 of them gathered round about vs, and
yet some-what farre off; wherewith hee that had the peece, shotte it
off, and with the bullet smote the stone in sunder, whereat they
woondred much more then before.
After that we tooke our leaues one of the other, with great friendship
on both sides; and when we were in our penace, [491] we al put off our
hattes and bowed our heades vnto them, sounding our trumpet: they in
their maner saluting vs also, and then went to their sleads againe.
And after they were gone from vs and were some-what within the land,
one of them came ryding to the shore, to fetch a rough-heawed image,
that our men had taken off the shore and carried into their boate: and
when he was in our boate, and perceiued the image, hee made vs a signe
that wee had not done well to take away that image; which wee
beholding, gaue it to him again: which when he had receiued, he placed
it vpon a hill right by the sea side, and tooke it not with him, but
sent a slead to fetch it from thence. And as farre as wee could
perceiue, they esteemed that image to be their god; [492] for that
right ouer against that place in the Wey-gates, which we called
Beelthooke, [493] we found certaine hundreds of such carued images, all
rough, about the heads being somewhat round, and in the middle hauing a
litle hill instead of a nose, and about the nose two cuttes in place of
eyes, and vnder the nose a cutte in place of a mouth. Before the
images, wee found great store of ashes, and bones of hartes; whereby it
is to be supposed that there they offered vnto them.
Hauing left the Samuters, the sunne being south-ward, [494] William
Barents, our captaine, spake to the admirall to will him to set sayle,
that they might goe forward; but they had not so many wordes together,
as was betweene them the day before; [495] for that when the admirall
and vize-admirall had spoken with him, [496] the admirall seeming to be
well contented therewith, said vnto him: Captaine, [497] what think you
were best for vs to doe? he made answere, I thinke we should doe well
to set sayle, and goe forward on our uoyage, that wee may accomplish
it. Whereunto the admirall answeared him, and sayd: Looke well what you
doe, captaine: [498] at which time, the sunne was north-west [½ p. 7
P.M.].
The 2 of September, a litle before sunne rising, wee put foorth our
anckor [499] to get out, for that the winde as then blew south
south-west; it being good weather to get out, and ill weather to lie
still: for we lay under a low bancke. [500] The admirall and
vize-admirall seeing vs making out, began also to hoyse their anckors,
and to set sayle.
When wee put out our focke-sayle, [501] the sunne was east and by south
[½ p. 5 A.M.]; and then we sayled to the Crosse-poynt, and there wee
cast anckor to stay for the vize-admirals pinnace; which with much
labour and paines in time got out of the ice, by often casting out of
their anckor, [502] and in the euening shee got to vs. In the morning,
about 2 houres before sunne rising, we set sayle, and by sunne rising
we got within a mile [4 miles] east-ward of the Twist-poynt, [503] and
sayled north-ward 6 miles, till the sunne was south [¾ p. 10 A.M.].
Then wee were forced to wind about, because of the great quantitie of
ice, and the mist that then fell; at which time the winde blew so
vncertaine that we could hold no course, but were forced continually to
winde and turne about, [504] by reason of the ice and the
vnconstantnesse of the wind, together with the mist, so that our course
was vncertaine, and we supposed that we had sailed south-ward vp
towardes the Samuters countrey, and then held our course south-west,
till the watchers [505] were north-west from vs; then we came to the
point of the States Island, [506] lying east-ward about a musket shot
from the land, having 13 fadome deepe.
The 4 of September, we hoysed anchor because of the ice, and sailed
betwene the firme land and the States Island, where wee lay close by
the States Island at 4 and 5 fadome deepe, and made our shippe fast
with a cable cast on the shoare; and there we were safe from the course
of the ice, [507] and diuers time went on land to get [508] hares,
whereof there were many in that island.
The 6 of September, some of our men went on shore vpon the firme land
to seeke for stones, which are a kinde of diamont, [509] whereof there
are many also in the States Island: and while they were seeking ye
stones, 2 of our mē lying together in one place, a great leane white
beare came sodainly stealing out, and caught one of them fast by the
necke, who not knowing what it was that tooke him by the necke, cried
out and said, Who is that that pulles me so by the necke? Wherewith the
other, that lay not farre from him, [510] lifted vp his head to see who
it was, and perceiuing it to be a monsterous beare, cryed and sayd, Oh
mate, it is a beare! and therewith presently rose vp and ran away.
The beare at the first faling vpon the man, bit his head in sunder,
[511] and suckt out his blood, wherewith the rest of the men that were
on land, being about 20 in number, ran presently thither, either to
saue the man, or else to driue the beare from the dead body; and hauing
charged their peeces and bent their pikes, [512] set vpon her, that
still was deuouring the man, but perceiuing them to come towards her,
fiercely and cruelly ran at them, and gat another of them out from the
companie, which she tare in peeces, wherewith all the rest ran away.
We perceiuing out of our ship and pinace that our men ran to the
sea-side to save themselues, with all speed entered into our boates,
and rowed as fast as we could to the shoare to relieue our men. Where
being on land, we beheld the cruell spectacle of our two dead men, that
had beene so cruelly killed and torne in pieces by the beare. Wee
seeing that, incouraged our men to goe backe againe with vs, and with
peeces, curtleaxes, [513] and halfe pikes, to set vpon the beare; but
they would not all agree thereunto, some of them saying, Our men are
already dead, and we shall get the beare well enough, though wee oppose
not our selues into so open danger; if wee might saue our fellowes
liues, then we would make haste; but now wee neede not make such
speede, but take her at an aduantage, with most securitie for our
selues, for we haue to doe with a cruell, fierce and rauenous beast.
Whereupon three of our men went forward, the beare still deuouring her
prey, not once fearing the number of our men, and yet they were thirtie
at the least: the three that went forward in that sort, were Cornelius
Jacobson, [514] maister of William Barents shippe, William Gysen,
pilote of the pinace, and Hans van Nufflen, William Barents purser:
[515] and after that the sayd maister and pilote had shot three times
and mist, the purser stepping somewhat further forward, and seeing the
beare to be within the length of a shot, presently leauelled his peece,
and discharging it at the beare, shot her into the head betweene both
the eyes, and yet shee held the man still faste by the necke, and
lifted vp her head, with the man in her mouth, but shee beganne
somewhat to stagger; wherewith the purser and a Scotishman [516] drew
out their courtlaxes, and stroke at her so hard that their courtlaxes
burst, [517] and yet she would not leaue the man. At last William
Geysen went to them, and with all his might stroke the beare vpon the
snowt with his peece, at which time the beare fell to the ground,
making a great noyse, and William Geyson leaping vpon her cut her
throat. The seuenth of September wee buryed the dead bodyes of our men
in the States Island, and hauing fleaed the beare, carryed her skinne
to Amsterdam.
The ninth of September, wee set saile from the States Island, [518] but
the ice came in so thicke and with such force, that wee could not get
through; so that at euening wee came backe againe to the States Island,
the winde being westerly. There the admirale and the pinace of Roterdam
fell on ground by certaine rockes, but gote off againe without any
hurt.
The tenth of September wee sayled againe from the States Island towards
the Wey-gates, and sent two boates into the sea to certifie vs what
store of ice was abroad; and that euening we came all together into
Wey-gates, and anckored by the Twist Point. [519]
The 11 of September in the morning, we sailed againe into the Tartarian
Sea, [520] but we fell into great store of ice, so that wee sailed back
againe to the Wey-gates, and anckored by the Crosse Point, and about
mid-night we saw a Russian lodgie, [521] that sailed from the
Beeltpoint [522] towardes the Samuters land. The 13 of September, the
sunne being south [¾ p. 10 A.M.], there beganne a great storme to blow
out of the south south-west, [523] the weather being mistie,
melancholly, [524] and snowie, [525] and the storme increasing more and
more, we draue through. [526]
The 14 of September the weather beganne to bee somewhat clearer, the
winde being north-west, and the storme blowing stiffe [527] out of the
Tartarian Sea; but at euening it was [528] faire weather, and then the
wind blewe north-east. The same day our men went on the other side of
Wey-gates on the firme land, [529] to take the depth of the channel,
and entered into the bough behinde the islands, [530] where there stood
a little howse made of wood, and a great fall of water into the land.
[531] The same morning we hoysed vp our anckor, [532] thinking once
againe to try what we could doe to further our uoyage; but our admirall
being of another minde, lay still till the fifteene of September.
The same day in the morning the winde draue in from the east end of the
Wey-gates, [533] whereby wee were forced presently to hoyse anchors,
and the same day sailed out from the west ende of the Wey-gates, with
all our fleete, and made home-wardes againe, and that day past by the
islands called Matfloe and Delgoy, [534] and that night wee sayled
twelue [48] miles, north-west and by west, till Saterday in the
morning, and then the winde fell north-east, and it began to snow.
The 16 of September, from morning to evening, wee sayled west
north-west 18 [72] miles, at 42 fadome deepe; in the night it snowed,
and there blew very much winde out of the north-east: the first quarter
[535] wee had 40 fadome deepe, but in the morning we saw not any of our
ships.
After that wee sailed all the night againe till the 17 of September in
the morning, with two schower sailes, [536] north-west and by west and
west north-west 10 [40] miles; the same day in the second quarter we
had 50 fadome deepe, and in the morning 38 fadome deepe, sandy ground
with blacke shels. [537]
Sunday in the morning wee had the winde north and north-west, with a
great gale, and then the admirals pinnace kept vs company, and sailed
by vs with one saile from morning to evening, south south-west and
south-west and by south, for the space of 6 [24] miles.
Then we saw the point of Candynaes [538] lying south-east from vs, and
then wee had 27 fadome deepe, redde sand with blacke shels. Sunday at
night wee put out our focke sayle, [539] and wound northward ouer, and
sayled all that night till Munday in the morning, 7 [28] or 8 [32]
miles north-east and north-east and by east.
The 18 of September in the morning, wee lost the sight of the pinnace
that followed vs, and till noone sought after her, but wee could not
finde her, and sailed [540] east-ward 3 [12] miles, and from noone till
night wee sailed north and by east foure [16] miles. And from Munday at
night till Tuesday in the morning, north-east and by north, seuen [28]
miles; and from morning till noone, north-east and by north, 4 [16]
miles; and from noone till night, north-east, [541] 5 [20] or 6 [24]
miles, at 55 fadome deepe; the same euening wee woond south-ward, and
sailed so till morning.
The 20 of September, wee sayled south and by west and south south-west,
7 [28] or 8 [32] miles, at 80 fadome deepe, black slimie ground; from
morning till noone wee sailed with both our marsh sailes, [542]
south-west and by west 5 [20] miles, and from noone to night west and
by south 5 [20] miles.
The 21 of September from night [543] till Thurseday in the morning, wee
sayled one quarter [544] west, and so till day, still west, 7 [28]
miles, at 64 fadome deepe, oasie ground.
From morning till noone, south-west 5 [20] miles, at 65 fadome deepe,
oasie ground: at noone wee wound north-ward againe, and for three
houres sayled north-east two [8] myles: then we wound westward againe,
and sayled till night, while halfe our second quarter was out, [545]
with two schoure sayles, [546] south south-west and south-west and by
south sixe [24] myles. After that, in the second quarter, wee wound
north-ward, and sayled so till Fryday in the morning.
The 22 of September wee sayled north and by east and north north-east 4
[16] miles: [547] and from morning till noone, north-east, 4 [16]
myles. Then wee wound west-ward againe, and sayled north-west and by
west and north-west three [12] miles. After that, the first quarter,
[548] north-west and by west, fiue [20] miles; the second quarter, west
and by north, foure [16] miles; and till Saterday in the morning, being
the 23 of September, west south-west and south-west and by west, foure
[16] miles. From Saterday in the morning till euening wee sayled with
two schoure sailes, [549] south-west and south-west and by west, 7 [28]
or 8 [32] miles, the winde being north north-west. In the euening we
wound north-ward, and sayled till Sunday in the morning, being the 24
of September, with two schoure sayles, very neare east, with a stiffe
north north-west wind, 8 [32] miles; and from morning till noone, east
and by south, three [12] miles, with a north winde. Then we wound
west-ward, and till euening sayled west south-west three [12] miles;
and all that night till Monday in the morning, the 25 of September,
west and by south, sixe [24] miles, the winde being north. In the
morning the wind fell north-east, and we sailed from morning till
euening west and west and by north, 10 [40] miles, hauing 63 fadome
deepe, sandy ground.
From euening till Tuesday in the morning, being the 26 of September, we
sailed west 10 [40] miles, and then in the morning wee were hard by the
land, about 3 [12] miles east-ward from Kildwin; [550] and then we
wound off from the land, and so held off for 3 houres together; after
that we wound towards the land againe, and thought to goe into Kilduin,
but we were too low; [551] so that after-noone we wound off from the
land againe, and till euening sailed east north-east 5 [20] miles; and
from euening til two houres before Wednesday in the morning, being the
27 of September, we sailed east 6 [24] miles; then we wound west-ward,
and till euening sailed west and by north 8 [32] miles, and in the
euening came againe before Kilduin; then wee wound farre off from the
land, and sailed 2 quarters [552] north-east and by east and east
north-east 6 [24] miles; and about [553] Friday in the morning, being
the 28 of September, wee wound about againe, and sayled with diuers
variable windes, sometimes one way, then another way, till euening;
then wee gest [554] that Kilduin lay west from vs foure [16] miles, and
at that time wee had an east north-east winde, and sayled north
north-west and north-west and by north, till Satterday in the morning
12 [48] or 13 [52] miles.
The nine and twentieth of September in the morning, wee sayled
north-west and by west foure [16] miles; and all that day till euening
it was faire, still, pleasant, and sunne-shine weather. In the euening
wee went west south-west, and then wee were about sixe [24] miles from
the land, and sayled till Sunday in the morning, beeing the 30 of
September, north north-west eight [32] miles; then wee wound towardes
the land, and the same day in the euening entered into Ward-house,
[555] and there wee stayed till the tenth of October. And that day wee
set sayle out of Ward-house, and vpon the eighteene of Nouember wee
arriued in the Maes.
The course or miles from Ward-house into Holland I haue not here set
downe, as being needlesse, because it is a continuall uoiage knowne to
most men.