The Introduction to the second edition of this volume was already
printed when the Arctic exploring ships, H.M.S. Alert and Discovery,
returned to England, and I avail myself of this opportunity to express
the feelings of admiration which the undaunted courage and perseverance
displayed by its gallant crews have given rise to abroad; and to
repeat, with warm enthusiasm, that “welcome-home” which is still
finding expression over the whole civilised world.
The year 1876 will undoubtedly be written with golden letters in the
annals of English Arctic exploring, for not only the north, but also
the north-east, was the scene of English enterprise.
At the same time that Captain Nares and Captain Stephenson, under the
most trying circumstances, succeeded in pushing the Government ships
through the heavy barriers of ice which obstructed the outlet of
Smith’s Sound, another Englishman, Mr. Charles Gardiner, boldly
penetrated the Kara Sea. Mr. Gardiner visited Barendsz Yshaven, and
brought home from thence a valuable collection of highly interesting
relics.
The following is a short account of this very successful cruise.
The yacht Glow-worm left Hammerfest (Norway) on June 23rd, and made her
first ice on the 4th of July, being about twenty-five miles to westward
of Goose Land (Novaya Zemlya). The approach to the land was found to be
obstructed by solid icefields, but two days afterwards, Mr. Gardiner
succeeded in reaching the land-water, and shaping his course north, he
tried to get as far as Cape Nassau.
A continuance of westerly winds having blocked up the west coast
entirely, Mr. Gardiner, a few miles north of Matotschkin Schar, was
stopped by an impenetrable barrier of ice, which, closing upon the
land, stretched itself far away to the westward. Finding the ice
barrier which obstructed the entrance of Matotschkin Schar only two
miles broad, Mr. Gardiner, under steam and canvas, forced his way
through, and on the 20th reached the open water in the Straits. To his
great surprise he found the Straits perfectly clear of ice, which, so
early in the season, was a very unusual fact.
July 25th, his yacht reached the land-water along the east coast, and
shaping her course for White Island, Mr. Gardiner boldly penetrated
into the Kara Sea. Having got about thirty miles in that direction, his
ship was brought up by a heavy solid pack, which stretched away to the
eastward as far as could be seen. Judging that the westerly winds would
have cleared the east coast of Novaya Zemlya, Mr. Gardiner steered
north, with the intention of trying, if possible, to reach Barendsz
Yshaven.
The weather now became most trying. Continual fogs, numerous icebergs,
and, at intervals, ice all round, made the navigation in these almost
unknown waters very dangerous. The little ship for many days had to
grope her way along the coast like a blind man, but Mr. Gardiner, never
yielding to all these dangers and obstacles, had the well-earned
satisfaction of entering Yshaven at eight o’clock in the morning of the
29th of July. Finding the bay still filled up with fast ice, he
anchored outside of it.
Amidst fogs and snow-drift he, during three days, made the most careful
researches on and about the spot. He found the ruins of the Old House
fallen completely into decay; but, leaving nothing untouched, and
grubbing in every nook and corner, he gathered from under the ice a
most splendid and highly interesting collection of more than a hundred
different articles. Depositing a record of his having been there, Mr.
Gardiner, on August 2nd, shaped his course for White Island.
In vain he attempted to make more easting. About thirty miles distance
from the land his yacht was always stopped by impenetrable ice. This
forced him to go south in the land-water, and on the 13th he arrived at
Waygatz Island. In order to cross over to the Yalmal Peninsula, he had
to push his way through very heavy ice; and while coasting north, along
the low Siberian coast, a heavy pack was always in sight on his
portbeam. On August 18th, very thick weather obliged him to drop his
anchor. It blew a gale from the north-west, which, bringing the pack
down on the land, threatened to force the yacht ashore. The position
was very dangerous indeed, and steam was ordered to be kept up ready at
a moment’s notice.
Not long after, a very large floe, some 1,000 yards in circumference,
drifted down on the little ship, and the pressure was such that the
cable with fifty fathoms parted. In a few minutes, the yacht drew only
eight feet of water under her keel. Mr. Gardiner, however, not only
succeeded in saving his ship, but next day got his lost anchor again;
on which he boldly pushed further north. Three days afterwards, in 67
deg. 10 min. east longitude and 72 deg. 20 min. north latitude, he
experienced very bad weather. A strong north-east gale, it being very
thick, brought so much ice down that the ship could not hold her
ground. This weather continuing, and it being rather late in the
season, orders were given to return.
Passing Pet Straits on the 23rd, the yacht was back in Hammerfest on
the 28th of August, after a most successful and interesting cruise, the
history of which adds another bright page to the glorious annals of
English enterprise.
The collection of the Barendsz relics, which were brought over to
England, consisted of more than a hundred different objects. Remains of
carpenters’ tools, broken parts of old weapons, and sailors’ materials,
form the greater part of the collection. Among the most curious
articles are a wooden stamp with seal, a leaden inkstand, two goose
feather writing pens, a small iron pair of compasses, a little cubic
die-stone, a heavy harpoon with ring, besides twenty well-preserved wax
candles, very likely the oldest in the world now existing. Besides
these, there are three Dutch books, two Dutch coins, an old Amsterdam
ell-measure, together with the ship’s flag of Amsterdam, having been
the first European colour which passed a winter in the Arctic Regions.
The authenticity of the Barendsz relics is now fully borne out, for in
one of the powder-horns was found the well-known manuscript which
Barendsz left behind, hung up in the chimney. Though much decayed, it
is with the exception of a few words perfectly legible. It is not, as
some have supposed it to be, a kind of journal, but merely a short
record, giving the principal facts we knew already from De Veer’s
accounts. The dates it gives, perfectly agree with the aforesaid
accounts, whilst the record is signed by Heemskerck and William
Barendsz. The signature of Heemskerck is identified, but that of
William Barendsz was, till now, unknown.
Mr. Gardiner, knowing that the relics brought home by Captain Carlsen
in 1871, were bought by the Netherlandish Government, and convinced of
the great interest which they possess for the native land of the great
explorer, has most generously offered this collection to the Dutch
nation. When this fact becomes known by the general public in Holland,
we feel sure every true Netherlander will be very thankful to Mr.
Charles Gardiner for this generous and courteous act.