(See the Engraving)
"A view in Western Australia, taken from a hill, the intended site of a
Fort, on the left bank of the Swan River, a mile and a quarter from its
mouth. The objects are, on the left, in the distance, Garden Island,
that on the right of it Pulo Carnac; between the two is the only known
entrance for shipping into Cockburn Sound, which lies between Garden
Island and the main land; the anchorage being off the island. On the
right is the mouth of the Swan River. On the left, a temporary mud work,
overlooking a small bay where the troops disembarked. In the foreground
tis a road leading to the intended fort and cantonment on the river."
Few subjects in our recent volumes have excited more attention than the
facts we have there assembled relative to the New Colony on Swan River.
The most substantial and agreeable proofs of this popularity have been
the frequent reprints of the Numbers containing these Notices, and the
continued inquiries for them to the present moment. For the information
of such persons as are casual purchasers of our work, we subjoin the
numbers:
No. 368 and 369 contain the papers (abridged) from the _Quarterly
Review_, with the Regulations issued from the Colonial Office; and an
Engraved Chart which is more correct than that in the _Q. Rev_.
Nos. 410 and 411 contain an Engraved View on the Banks of the River,
from an original drawing by one of the expedition; and a copy of Mr.
Fraser's Report of the Botanical and other productions of the Colony.
No. 430 contains an important Letter from the Colony.
No. 464 contains an account (with extracts,) of the first Newspaper
_written_, not printed, in the settlement.
The annexed Engraving is from a well-drawn lithograph distributed with
No. 12 of the _Foreign Literary Gazette_ date March, 1830; the
support of which work by the public was by no means commensurate with
its claims.
The letter-press with which the Engraving was circulated contains little
beyond the earliest settlement. The most recently received account is
that conveyed through the _Literary Gazette_, a fortnight since;
and as no paper is more to be relied on for information connected with
expeditions of discovery, colonial matters, &c. we extract nearly the
whole of the communication:--
Perth Town, Swan River, Western Australia, Oct. 4, 1830.
My dear ----, a ship being about to sail in the course of a week for
England, I must not lose the opportunity of giving you a few lines
respecting our movements and the state of the colony. I am somewhat
late in my communications to my friends; but as this is the second ship
only that has sailed direct for England since our arrival, you must not
attribute the delay to any neglect on my part. The information which
I can give you may be implicitly depended on. By the late accounts from
England, it appears that the most exaggerated and false reports prevail
regarding the present state and probable prospects of the colony,
like all other reports that are a mixture of truth and falsehood; and
as it is usual to paint the latter in the brightest colours, so it
usually stands foremost in the picture: they have been industriously
disseminated by a set of idle, worthless vagabonds, and have been
eagerly taken up by the inhabitants of Cape Town and Van Dieman's
Land.--These two places are so excessively jealous of the colony of
Swan River, lest the tide of emigration should turn towards us, that the
former use every means in their power to induce the settlers in their
way here to remain with them; and they have been, I am sorry to say, too
successful, having detained nearly two hundred labourers. The grounds of
complaint are, that the colony is not equal to the representations given
of it, and that it has not answered their expectations. The account in
the _Quarterly Review_, as far as it goes, is correct, with one
exception; but the impression it is calculated to make, when in unison
with the hopes of needy adventurers, is too favourable to be realized.
The _Review_ observes, that the land seen on the banks of the Swan
is of a very superior description; and this is undoubtedly true; but
the imagination and enthusiastic feelings of many have induced them
to suppose that _all_ the land on the banks of the Swan, and the
whole country besides, is included in that description. Now, the good
land is chiefly confined to the banks of the rivers, as you will see by
a map which I have sent to ----; the rest is sandy, but it is covered
throughout the year with luxuriant vegetation. The cause of this arises
in some measure from the composition of the soil beneath, which, at an
average depth of five or six feet, is principally clay, which holds the
water in lagoons, that are to be met with in every hollow in every part
of the country on this side the mountains. It unfortunately happens that
none of the good land is to be seen even as far up the river as Perth,
the whole soil of which is sandy; hence all new-comers are at first
disappointed; and, without taking any further trouble to examine
the country, leave the colony in disgust altogether. But it has now
been found that the land at Perth, notwithstanding its unpromising
appearance, possesses capabilities which intelligent and experienced
persons foresaw, and that it only requires time and patience to develope
its surprising qualities: at this moment there are vegetables growing
to an enormous size, scarcely credible, and which for the sake of truth
I actually measured. What say you to radishes twenty inches round, and
grown in nothing but sand, without any manure or preparation of the
ground? Turnips, cabbages, peas, lettuces, all flourish in the worst
soils here; but I fear the climate is too warm for potatoes, though
well adapted for most of the tropical fruits, as yams, bananas, &c.
The soil and aspect of the country seems well suited for the vine,
which, from the little experience we have had, does exceedingly well.
There are no esculent productions worth mentioning indigenous, but there
is some fine timber, which will no doubt become a valuable article
of exportation: it is between the mahogany and the elder, and may be
applied to all the purposes of the former. Its greatest recommendation
is, that the white ant will not touch it, and it will consequently be
a great desideratum where that insect abounds. We have likewise the red
and blue gum, but in no great quantity, in the immediate vicinity of
Perth. The animal productions are the same as on the other side of the
island, as also the birds. The rivers swarm with fish, every one of
which is good eating; but it is only lately that we have been well
supplied with them. There is abundance of limestone ready at hand in
most parts of the river, as well as the finest and strongest clay,
plenty of which runs along the shore that bounds Perth, for a mile and
a half, as you will see by the map. Of the mineral resources of the
country nothing is as yet known; for every one has been too much
occupied in locating himself to give that subject any attention. By
the reports from England, it appears that from the misfortunes which
happened to the first ships that came out, a very unfavourable opinion
is formed of the safety of the port. Gage's roads afford a very good
anchorage during the summer months; but, being exposed to the north-west
winds, it is a very insecure station during the winter, the ground being
rocky and a loose sand; but this evil, I am happy to say, is in a great
measure obviated by the discovery of a good anchorage about four miles
to the southward of the mouth of the river, and marked in the map as the
Britannia Roads. The bottom is firm holding ground, and has been proved
to be a very secure anchorage during the late gales, when all the ships
in Gage's Roads went on shore, while those on the Britannia Roads rode
it out, with the exception of one ship, which broke her anchor. Besides,
a passage has lately been found out from Gage's Roads to Cockburn, into
which ships may run, if they are too much leeward of the Britannia
Roads; so that you see we may always have a refuge from the storm.
I hope you will take care to give publicity to _this_ circumstance,
because it is one upon which the success of the colony mainly depends.
The bar at the mouth of the river, and the flats in various parts of its
course, are a great drawback to our communications; but these evil will
no doubt be remedied in the course of time, and that without much
expense. There is a clear channel all the way up the river for vessels
of 500 tons, commencing about a mile and a half above Freemantle to
Perth; then there are a succession of flats until you pass the islands,
where the navigation continues clear for many miles up the river.
The prospects of the colony are every day improving, to the
satisfaction of all classes; and the great number of respectable
settlers, and their patience and perseverance in establishing
themselves, are the surest grounds for the ultimate prosperity of the
settlement. The only objections, as I can see, that can be urged with
any degree of plausibility against the success of the colony, are, that
the land at Perth and in the neighbourhood is not of that description
to induce the settlers to cultivate, and that all the good land being
now granted, there is no more on this side the mountains to satisfy the
demands of new settlers; but these objections are, I am happy to say,
about to be removed, as an ensign of the 63rd regiment (a Mr. Dale) has
lately returned from a tour of discovery into the interior, and has
brought intelligence, that to the eastward of the Swan River there is
a large and fertile tract of beautiful country, with a river passing
through it, which, from a subsequent visit by Mr. Erskine, a lieutenant
of the 63rd, is likely to prove of the greatest importance to the
colony. Those of the settlers who have not taken up their grants of land
mean to secure them here, and myself among the number, a grant having
been allowed me, at the rate of 3,200 acres. The governor is quite
delighted, and now considers the ultimate success of the colony to be
certain. He intends visiting the country, and tracing the course of the
river, in a few days; and it is my wish to accompany him, if possible,
that I may select my own grant.
The spirit of detraction to which the writer alludes in the early part
of his letter is thus noticed in the _Cabinet Cyclopaedia_, vol. iii.
of Maritime and Inland Discovery: "The difficulties and embarrassments
which the settlers at the Swan River have been obliged to endure, have
been industriously exaggerated by the colonial press; the strong desire
which exists in New South Wales to attract emigrants to that country
being naturally allied with a disposition to disparage every other
settlement."
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