They began, at first, to attack us with stones from behind the walls of

their inclosures, and finding no resistance on our part, they soon grew

more daring. A few resolute fellows, having crept along the beach, under

cover of the rocks, suddenly made their appearance at the foot of the

_Morai_, with a design, as it seemed, of storming it on the side next

the sea, which was its only accessible part; and were not dislodged,

till after they had stood a considerable number of shot, and seen one of

their party fall.

The bravery of one of these assailants well deserves to be particularly

mentioned; for having returned to carry off his companion, amidst the

fire of our whole party, a wound which he received made him quit the

body and retire; but, in a few minutes, he again appeared, and being

again wounded, he was obliged a second time to retreat. At this moment I

arrived at the _Morai_, and saw him return the third time, bleeding and

faint; and being informed of what had happened, I forbade the soldiers

to fire, and he was suffered to carry off his friend; which he was just

able to perform, and then fell down himself and expired.

About this time, a strong reinforcement from both ships having landed,

the natives retreated behind their walls; which giving me access to our

friendly priests, I sent one of them to endeavour to bring their

countrymen to some terms, and to propose to them, that if they would

desist from throwing stones, I would not permit our men to fire. This

truce was agreed to, and we were suffered to launch the mast, and carry

off the sails, and our astronomical apparatus, unmolested. As soon as we

had quitted the _Morai_, they took possession of it, and some of them

threw a few stones; but without doing us any mischief.

It was half an hour past eleven o’clock when I got on board the

Discovery, where I found no decisive plan had been adopted for our

future proceedings. The restitution of the boat, and the recovery of the

body of Captain Cook, were the objects which, on all hands, we agreed to

insist on; and it was my opinion that some vigorous steps should be

taken, in case the demand of them was not immediately complied with.

Though my feelings, on the death of a beloved and honoured friend, may

be suspected to have had some share in this opinion, yet there were

certainly other reasons, and those of the most serious kind, that had

considerable weight with me. The confidence which their success in

killing our chief, and forcing us to quit the shore, must naturally have

inspired; and the advantage, however trifling, which they had obtained

over us the preceding day; would, I had no doubt, encourage them to make

some further dangerous attempts; and the more especially, as they had

little reason, from what they had hitherto seen, to dread the effects of

our fire-arms. Indeed, contrary to the expectations of every one, this

sort of weapon had produced no signs of terror in them. On our side,

such was the condition of the ships, and the state of discipline amongst

us, that, had a vigorous attack been made on us in the night, it would

have been impossible to answer for the consequences.

In these apprehensions, I was supported by the opinion of most of the

officers on board; and nothing seemed to me so likely to encourage the

natives to make the attempt, as the appearance of our being inclined to

an accommodation, which they could only attribute to weakness or fear.

In favour of more conciliatory measures, it was justly urged, that the

mischief was done, and irreparable; that the natives had a strong claim

to our regard, on account of their former friendship and kindness; and

the more especially, as the late melancholy accident did not appear to

have arisen from any premeditated design; that, on the part of

Terreeoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his readiness to accompany

Captain Cook on board, and his having actually sent his two sons into

the boat, must free him from the smallest degree of suspicion; that the

conduct of his women and the _Erees_ might easily be accounted for, from

the apprehensions occasioned by the armed force with which Captain Cook

came on shore, and the hostile preparations in the bay; appearances so

different from the terms of friendship and confidence, in which both

parties had hitherto lived, that the arming of the natives was evidently

with a design to resist the attempt, which they had some reason to

imagine would be made, to carry off their king by force, and was

naturally to be expected from a people full of affection and attachment

to their chiefs.

To these motives of humanity, others of a prudential nature were added;

that we were in want of water, and other refreshments; that our foremast

would require six or eight days’ work before it could be stepped; that

the spring was advancing apace; and that the speedy prosecution of our

next northern expedition ought now to be our sole object; that therefore

to engage in a vindictive contest with the inhabitants, might not only

lay us under the imputation of unnecessary cruelty, but would occasion

an unavoidable delay in the equipment of the ships.

In this latter opinion Captain Clerke concurred; and though I was

convinced, that an early display of vigorous resentment would more

effectually have answered every object both of prudence and humanity, I

was not sorry that the measures I had recommended were rejected. For

though the contemptuous behaviour of the natives, and their subsequent

opposition to our necessary operations on shore, arising, I have no

doubt, from a misconstruction of our lenity, compelled us at last to

have recourse to violence in our own defence; yet I am not so sure that

the circumstances of the case would, in the opinion of the world, have

justified the use of force on our part in the first instance. Cautionary

rigour is at all times invidious, and has this additional objection to

it, that the severity of a preventive course, when it best succeeds,

leaves its expediency the least apparent.

During the time we were thus engaged, in concerting some plan for our

future conduct, a prodigious concourse of natives still kept possession

of the shore; and some of them came off in canoes, and had the boldness

to approach within pistol-shot of the ships, and to insult us by various

marks of contempt and defiance. It was with great difficulty we could

restrain the sailors from the use of their arms on these occasions; but

as pacific measures had been resolved on, the canoes were suffered to

return unmolested.

In pursuance of this plan, it was determined that I should proceed

toward the shore, with the boats of both ships well manned and armed,

with a view to bring the natives to a parley, and, if possible, to

obtain a conference with some of the chiefs.

If this attempt succeeded, I was to demand the dead bodies, and

particularly that of Captain Cook; to threaten them with our vengeance

in case of a refusal; but, by no means, to fire unless attacked; and not

to land on any account whatever. These orders were delivered to me

before the whole party, and in the most positive manner.

I left the ships about four o’clock in the afternoon; and, as we

approached the shore, I perceived every indication of a hostile

reception. The whole crowd of natives was in motion; the women and

children retiring; the men putting on their war mats, and arming

themselves with long spears and daggers. We also observed, that, since

the morning, they had thrown up stone breast-works along the beach,

where Captain Cook had landed, probably in expectation of an attack at

that place; and, as soon as we were within reach, they began to throw

stones at us with slings, but without doing any mischief. Concluding,

therefore, that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be in vain,

unless I first gave them some ground for mutual confidence; I ordered

the armed boats to stop, and went on, in the small boat, alone, with a

white flag in my hand, which, by a general cry of joy from the natives,

I had the satisfaction to find was instantly understood. The women

immediately returned from the side of the hill, whither they had

retired; the men threw off their mats; and all sat down together by the

water-side, extending their arms, and inviting me to come on shore.

Though this behaviour was very expressive of a friendly disposition, yet

I could not help entertaining some suspicions of its sincerity. But when

I saw Koah, with a boldness and assurance altogether unaccountable,

swimming off toward the boat, with a white flag in his hand, I thought

it necessary to return this mark of confidence, and therefore received

him into the boat, though armed; a circumstance which did not tend to

lessen my suspicions. I must confess, I had long harboured an

unfavourable opinion of this man. The priests had always told us, that

he was of a malicious disposition, and no friend of ours; and the

repeated detections of his fraud and treachery, had convinced us of the

truth of their representations. Add to all this, the shocking

transaction of the morning, in which he was seen acting a principal

part, made me feel the utmost horror at finding myself so near him; and

as he came up to me with feigned tears, and embraced me, I was so

distrustful of his intentions, that I could not help taking hold of the

point of the _pahooah_, which he held in his hand, and turning it from

me. I told him, that I had come to demand the body of Captain Cook; and

to declare war against them, unless it was instantly restored. He

assured me this should be done as soon as possible; and that he would go

himself for that purpose; and, after begging of me a piece of iron, with

much assurance, as if nothing extraordinary had happened, he leaped into

the sea, and swam ashore, calling out to his countrymen, that we were

all friends again.

We waited near an hour, with great anxiety for his return; during which

time, the rest of the boats had approached so near the shore, as to

enter into conversation with a party of the natives, at some distance

from us; by whom they were plainly given to understand, that the body

had been cut to pieces and carried up the country; but of this

circumstance I was not informed till our return to the ships.

I began now to express some impatience at Koah’s delay; upon which the

chiefs pressed me exceedingly to come on shore; assuring me, that if I

would go myself to Terreeoboo, the body would certainly be restored to

me. When they found they could not prevail on me to land, they

attempted, under a pretence of wishing to converse with more ease, to

decoy our boat among some rocks, where they would have had it in their

power to cut us off from the rest. It was no difficult matter to see

through these artifices; and I was, therefore, strongly inclined to

break off all further communication with them, when a chief came to us,

who was the particular friend of Captain Clerke, and of the officers of

the Discovery, on board which ship he had sailed, when we last left the

bay, intending to take his passage to _Mowee_. He told us, he came from

Terreeoboo to acquaint us, that the body was carried up the country; but

that it should be brought to us the next morning. There appeared a great

deal of sincerity in his manner; and being asked, if he told a

falsehood, he hooked his two fore-fingers together, which is understood

amongst these islanders as the sign of truth; in the use of which they

are very scrupulous.

As I was now at a loss in what manner to proceed, I sent Mr. Vancouver

to acquaint Captain Clerke with all that had passed; that my opinion

was, they meant not to keep their word with us, and were so far from

being sorry at what had happened, that, on the contrary, they were full

of spirits and confidence on account of their late success, and sought

only to gain time, till they could contrive some scheme for getting us

into their power. Mr. Vancouver came back with orders for me to return

on board; having first given the natives to understand, that if the body

was not brought the next morning, the town should be destroyed.

When they saw that we were going off, they endeavoured to provoke us by

the most insulting and contemptuous gestures. Some of our people said,

they could distinguish several of the natives parading about in the

clothes of our unfortunate comrades; and, among them, a chief

brandishing Captain Cook’s hanger, and a woman holding the scabbard.

Indeed, there can be no doubt, but that our behaviour had given them a

mean opinion of our courage; for they could have but little notion of

the motives of humanity that directed it.

In consequence of the report I made to Captain Clerke, of what I

conceived to be the present temper and disposition of the islanders, the

most effectual measures were taken to guard against any attack they

might make in the night. The boats were moored with top-chains;

additional sentinels were posted on both ships; and guard-boats were

stationed to row round them, in order to prevent the natives from

cutting the cables. During the night we observed a prodigious number of

lights on the hills, which made some of us imagine they were removing

their effects back into the country, in consequence of our threats. But

I rather believed them to have been the sacrifices that were performing

on account of the war, in which they imagined themselves about to be

engaged; and most probably the bodies of our slain countrymen were at

that time burning. We afterward saw fires of the same kind, as we passed

the island of Morotoi; and which, we were told by some natives then on

board, were made on account of the war they had declared against a

neighbouring island. And this agrees with what we learned amongst the

Friendly and Society Isles, that, previous to any expedition against an

enemy, the chiefs always endeavoured to animate and inflame the courage

of the people by feasts and rejoicings in the night.

We remained the whole night undisturbed, except by the howlings and

lamentations which were heard on shore: and early the next morning, Koah

came along-side the Resolution, with a present of cloth, and a small

pig, which he desired leave to present to me. I have mentioned before,

that I was supposed by the natives to be the son of Captain Cook; and as

he, in his life-time, had always suffered them to believe it, I was

probably considered as the chief, after his death. As soon as I came on

deck, I questioned him about the body; and, on his returning me nothing

but evasive answers, I refused to accept his presents; and was going to

dismiss him, with some expressions of anger and resentment, had not

Captain Clerke, judging it best, at all events, to keep up the

appearance of friendship, thought it more proper that he should be

treated with the usual respect.

This treacherous fellow came frequently to us during the course of the

forenoon, with some trifling present or other; and as I always observed

him eyeing every part of the ship with great attention, I took care he

should see we were well prepared for our defence.

He was exceedingly urgent, both with Captain Clerke and myself, to go on

shore, laying all the blame of the detention of the bodies on the other

chiefs; and assuring us, that every thing might be settled to our

satisfaction, by a personal interview with Terreeoboo. However, his

conduct was too suspicious to make it prudent to comply with this

request; and indeed a fact came afterward to our knowledge, which proved

the entire falsehood of his pretensions. For we were told, that

immediately after the action in which Captain Cook was killed, the old

king had retired to a cave in the steep part of the mountain, that hangs

over the bay, which was accessible only by the help of ropes, and where

he remained for many days, having his victuals let down to him by cords.

When Koah returned from the ships, we could perceive that his

countrymen, who had been collected by break of day in vast crowds on the

shore, thronged about him with great eagerness, as if to learn the

intelligence he had acquired, and what was to be done in consequence of

it. It is very probable, that they expected we should attempt to put our

threats in execution; and they seemed fully resolved to stand their

ground. During the whole morning, we heard conchs blowing in different

parts of the coast; large parties were seen marching over the hills;

and, in short, appearances were so alarming, that we carried out a

stream anchor, to enable us to haul the ship abreast of the town, in

case of an attack; and stationed boats off the north point of the bay,

to prevent a surprise from that quarter.

The breach of their engagement to restore the bodies of the slain, and

the warlike posture in which they at this time appeared, occasioned

fresh debates amongst us concerning the measures next to be pursued. It

was at last determined, that nothing should be suffered to interfere

with the repair of the mast, and the preparations for our departure; but

that we should, nevertheless, continue our negociations for the recovery

of the bodies.

The greatest part of the day was taken up in getting the fore-mast into

a proper situation on deck, for the carpenters to work upon it; and in

making the necessary alterations in the commissions of the officers. The

command of the expedition having devolved on Captain Clerke, he removed

on board the Resolution, appointed Lieutenant Gore to be Captain of the

Discovery, and promoted Mr. Harvey, a midshipman, who had been with

Captain Cook in his two last voyages, to the vacant lieutenancy. During

the whole day, we met with no interruption from the natives; and, at

night, the launch was again moored with a top-chain; and guard-boats

stationed round both ships as before.

About eight o’clock, it being very dark, a canoe was heard paddling

toward the ship; and as soon as it was seen, both the sentinels on deck

fired into it. There were two persons in the canoe, and they immediately

roared out “_Tinnee_” (which was the way in which they pronounced my

name), and said they were friends, and had something for me belonging to

Captain Cook. When they came on board, they threw themselves at our

feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. Luckily neither of them was

hurt, notwithstanding the balls of both pieces had gone through the

canoe. One of them was the person, whom I have before mentioned under

the name of the _Taboo_ man, who constantly attended Captain Cook with

the circumstances of ceremony I have already described; and who, though

a man of rank in the island, could scarcely be hindered from performing

for him the lowest offices of a menial servant. After lamenting, with

abundance of tears, the loss of the _Orono_, he told us that he had

brought us a part of his body. He then presented to us a small bundle,

wrapped up in cloth, which he brought under his arm; and it is

impossible to describe the horror which seized us, on finding in it a

piece of human flesh, about nine or ten pounds’ weight. This, he said,

was all that remained of the body; that the rest was cut to pieces, and

burnt; but that the head and all the bones, except what belonged to the

trunk, were in the possession of Terreeoboo, and the other _Erees_: that

what we saw had been allotted to Kaoo, the chief of the priests, to be

made use of in some religious ceremony; and that he had sent it as a

proof of his innocence and attachment to us.

This afforded an opportunity of informing ourselves, whether they were

cannibals; and we did not neglect it. We first tried, by many indirect

questions, put to each of them apart, to learn in what manner the rest

of the bodies had been disposed of; and finding them very constant in

one story, that, after the flesh had been cut off, it was all burnt; we

at last put the direct question, Whether they had not ate some of it?

They immediately showed as much horror at the idea, as any European

would have done; and asked, very naturally, if that was the custom

amongst us? They afterward asked us, with great earnestness and apparent

apprehension, “When the _Orono_ would come again? and what he would do

to them on his return?” The same inquiry was frequently made afterward

by others; and this idea agrees with the general tenor of their conduct

toward him, which showed that they considered him as a being of a

superior nature.

We pressed our two friendly visitors to remain on board till morning,

but in vain. They told us, that if this transaction should come to the

knowledge of the king, or chiefs, it might be attended with the most

fatal consequences to their whole society; in order to prevent which,

they had been obliged to come off to us in the dark; and that the same

precaution would be necessary in returning on shore. They informed us

farther, that the chiefs were eager to revenge the death of their

countrymen: and, particularly, cautioned us against trusting Koah, who

they said was our mortal and implacable enemy; and desired nothing more

ardently, than an opportunity of fighting us; to which the blowing of

the conchs we had heard in the morning was meant as a challenge.

We learned from these men, that seventeen of their countrymen were

killed in the first action at Kowrowa, of whom five were chiefs; and

that Kaneena and his brother, our very particular friends, were

unfortunately of that number. Eight, they said, were killed at the

observatory; three of whom were also of the first rank.

About eleven o’clock, our two friends left us, and took the precaution

to desire that our guard-boat might attend them, till they had passed

the Discovery, lest they should again be fired upon, which might alarm

their countrymen on shore, and expose them to the danger of being

discovered. This request was complied with; and we had the satisfaction

to find, that they got safe and undiscovered to land.

During the remainder of this night, we heard the same loud howling and

lamentations, as in the preceding one. Early in the morning, we received

another visit from Koah. I must confess, I was a little piqued to find,

that, notwithstanding the most evident marks of treachery in his

conduct, and the positive testimony of our friends the priests, he

should still be permitted to carry on the same farce, and to make us at

least appear to be the dupes of his hypocrisy. Indeed our situation was

become extremely awkward and unpromising; none of the purposes for which

this pacific course of proceeding had been adopted, having hitherto been

in the least forwarded by it. No satisfactory answer whatever had been

given to our demands; we did not seem to be at all advanced toward a

reconciliation with the islanders; they still kept in force on the

shore, as if determined to resist any attempts we might make to land;

and yet the attempt was become absolutely necessary, as the completing

our supply of water would not admit of any longer delay.

However it must be observed, in justice to the conduct of Captain

Clerke, that it was very probable, from the great numbers of the

natives, and from the resolution with which they seemed to expect us, an

attack could not have been made without some danger; and that the loss

of a very few men might have been severely felt by us, during the

remaining course of our voyage. Whereas the delaying the execution of

our threats, though, on the one hand, it lessened their opinion of our

prowess, had the effect of causing them to disperse, on the other. For

this day about noon, finding us persist in our inactivity, great bodies

of them, after blowing their conchs, and using every mode of defiance,

marched off over the hills and never appeared afterward. Those, however,

who remained, were not the less daring and insolent. One man had the

audacity to come within musket-shot, a-head of the ship; and, after

slinging several stones at us, he waved Captain Cook’s hat over his

head, whilst his countrymen on shore were exulting, and encouraging his

boldness. Our people were all in a flame at this insult, and coming in a

body on the quarter-deck, begged they might no longer be obliged to put

up with these repeated provocations; and requested me to obtain

permission for them, from Captain Clerke, to avail themselves of the

first fair occasion of revenging the death of their commander. On my

acquainting him with what was passing, he gave orders for some great

guns to be fired at the natives on shore; and promised the crew, that if

they should meet with any molestation at the watering-place the next

day, they should then be left at liberty to chastise them.

It is somewhat remarkable, that, before we could bring our guns to bear,

the islanders had suspected our intentions, from the stir they saw in

the ship, and had retired behind their houses and walls. We were

therefore obliged to fire, in some measure, at random; notwithstanding

which, our shot produced all the effects that could have been desired.

For, soon after, we saw Koah paddling toward us, with extreme haste,

and, on his arrival, we learned that some people had been killed, and

amongst the rest Maiha-maiha, a principal chief, and a near relation of

the king.[9]

Soon after the arrival of Koah, two boys swam off from the _Morai_

toward the ships, having each a long spear in his hand; and after they

had approached pretty near, they began to chant a song, in a very solemn

manner: the subject of which, from their often mentioning the word

_Orono_, and pointing to the village where Captain Cook was killed, we

concluded to be the late calamitous disaster. Having sung in a plaintive

strain for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the whole of which

time they remained in the water, they went on board the Discovery, and

delivered their spears; and, after making a short stay, returned on

shore. Who sent them, or what was the object of this ceremony, we were

never able to learn.

At night, the usual precautions were taken for the security of the

ships; and as soon as it was dark, our two friends, who had visited us

the night before, came off again. They assured us, that though the

effects of our great guns this afternoon had terrified the chiefs

exceedingly, they had by no means laid aside their hostile intentions,

and advised us to be on our guard.

The next morning, the boats of both ships were sent ashore for water;

and the Discovery was warped close to the beach, in order to cover that

service. We soon found that the intelligence which the priests had sent

us was not without foundation; and that the natives were resolved to

take every opportunity of annoying us, when it could be done without

much risk.

Throughout all this group of islands, the villages for the most part are

situated near the sea; and the adjacent ground is inclosed with stone

walls about three feet high. These, we at first imagined, were intended

for the division of property; but we now discovered, that they served,

and probably were principally designed, for a defence against invasion.

They consist of loose stones, and the inhabitants are very dexterous in

shifting them, with great quickness, to such situations, as the

direction of the attack may require. In the sides of the mountain, which

hangs over the bay, they have also little holes, or caves, of

considerable depth, the entrance of which is secured by a fence of the

same kind. From behind both these defences the natives kept perpetually

harassing our waterers with stones; nor could the small force we had on

shore, with the advantage of muskets, compel them to retreat.

In this exposed situation our people were so taken up in attending to

their own safety, that they employed the whole forenoon in filling only

one ton of water. As it was therefore impossible to perform this

service, till their assailants were driven to a greater distance, the

Discovery was ordered to dislodge them, with her great guns; which being

effected by a few discharges, the men landed without molestation.

However, the natives soon after made their appearance again, in their

usual mode of attack; and it was now found absolutely necessary to burn

down some straggling houses, near the wall, behind which they had taken

shelter. In executing these orders, I am sorry to add, that our people

were hurried into acts of unnecessary cruelty and devastation. Something

ought certainly to be allowed to their resentment of the repeated

insults, and contemptuous behaviour of the islanders, and to the natural

desire of revenging the loss of their commander. But, at the same time,

their conduct served strongly to convince me, that the utmost precaution

is necessary in trusting, though but for a moment, the discretionary use

of arms, in the hands of private seamen, or soldiers, on such occasions.

The rigour of discipline, and the habits of obedience, by which their

force is kept directed to its proper objects, lead them naturally enough

to conceive, that whatever they have the power, they have also the right

to do. Actual disobedience being almost the only crime for which they

are accustomed to expect punishment, they learn to consider it as the

only measure of right and wrong; and hence are apt to conclude, that

what they can do with impunity, they may do with justice and honour. So

that the feelings of humanity, which are inseparable from us all, and

that generosity toward an unresisting enemy, which, at other times, is

the distinguishing mark of brave men, become but weak restraints to the

exercise of violence, when opposed to the desire they naturally have of

showing their own independence and power.

I have already mentioned, that orders had been given to burn only a few

straggling huts, which afforded shelter to the natives. We were

therefore a good deal surprized to see the whole village on fire; and

before a boat that was sent to stop the progress of the mischief could

reach the shore, the houses of our old and constant friends the priests

were all in flames. I cannot enough lament the illness that confined me

on board this day. The priests had always been under my protection; and,

unluckily, the officers who were then on duty, having been seldom on

shore at the _Morai_, were not much acquainted with the circumstances of

the place. Had I been present myself, I might probably have been the

means of saving their little society from destruction.

Several of the natives were shot, in making their escape from the

flames; and our people cut off the heads of two of them, and brought

them on board. The fate of one poor islander was much lamented by us

all. As he was coming to the well for water, he was shot at by one of

the marines. The ball struck his calibash, which he immediately threw

from him and fled. He was pursued into one of the caves I have before

described, and no lion could have defended his den with greater courage

and fierceness; till at last, after having kept two of our people at bay

for a considerable time, he expired, covered with wounds. It was this

accident, that first brought us acquainted with the use of these

caverns.

At this time, an elderly man was taken prisoner, bound, and sent on

board in the same boat with the heads of his two countrymen. I never saw

horror so strongly pictured as in the face of this man, nor so violent a

transition to extravagant joy, as when he was untied, and told he might

go away in safety. He showed us he did not want gratitude, as he

frequently afterward returned with presents of provisions; and also did

us other services.

Soon after the village was destroyed, we saw, coming down the hill, a

man, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding pieces of white cloth,

green boughs, plantains, &c. in their hands. I knew not how it happened,

that this peaceful embassy, as soon as they were within reach, received

the fire of a party of our men. This, however, did not stop them. They

continued their procession; and the officer on duty came up in time to

prevent a second discharge. As they approached nearer, it was found to

be our much-esteemed friend Kaireekeea, who had fled on our first

setting fire to the village, and had now returned, and desired to be

sent on board the Resolution.

When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thoughtful. We

endeavoured to make him understand the necessity we were under of

setting fire to the village, by which his house, and those of his

brethren, were unintentionally consumed. He expostulated a little with

us on our want of friendship, and on our ingratitude. And, indeed, it

was not till now that we learnt the whole extent of the injury we had

done them. He told us, that, relying on the promises I had made them,

and on the assurances they had afterward received from the men, who had

brought us the remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their

effects back into the country, with the rest of the inhabitants, but had

put every thing that was valuable of their own, as well as what they had

collected from us, into a house close to the _Morai_, where they had the

mortification to see it all set on fire by ourselves.

On coming on board, he had seen the heads of his countrymen lying on the

deck, at which he was exceedingly shocked, and desired, with great

earnestness, that they might be thrown overboard. This request Captain

Clerke instantly ordered to be complied with.

In the evening, the watering party returned on board, having met with no

farther interruption. We passed a gloomy night; the cries and

lamentations we heard on shore being far more dreadful than ever. Our

only consolation was, the hope that we should have no occasion in future

for a repetition of such severities.

It is very extraordinary, that, amidst all these disturbances, the women

of the island, who were on board, never offered to leave us, nor

discovered the smallest apprehensions either for themselves or their

friends ashore. So entirely unconcerned did they appear, that some of

them, who were on deck when the town was in flames, seemed to admire the

sight, and frequently cried out, that it was _maitai_, or very fine.

The next morning Koah came off as usual to the ships. As there existed

no longer any necessity for keeping terms with him, I was allowed to

have my own way. When he approached toward the side of the ship, singing

his song, and offering me a hog, and some plantains, I ordered him to

keep off, cautioning him never to appear again without Captain Cook’s

bones, lest his life should pay the forfeit of his frequent breach of

promise. He did not appear much mortified with this reception, but went

immediately on shore, and joined a party of his countrymen, who were

pelting the waterers with stones. The body of the young man, who had

been killed the day before, was found this morning, lying at the

entrance of the cave; and some of our people went and threw a mat over

it. Soon after which they saw some men carrying him off on their

shoulders, and could hear them singing, as they marched, a mournful

song.

The natives, being at last convinced that it was not the want of ability

to punish them, which had hitherto made us tolerate their provocations,

desisted from giving us any farther molestation; and, in the evening, a

chief called Eappo, who had seldom visited us, but whom we knew to be a

man of the very first consequence, came with presents from Terreeoboo to

sue for peace. These presents were received, and he was dismissed with

the same answer which had before been given, that, until the remains of

Captain Cook should be restored, no peace would be granted. We learned

from this person, that the flesh of all the bodies of our people,

together with the bones of the trunks, had been burnt; that the limb

bones of the marines had been divided amongst the inferior chiefs; and

that those of Captain Cook had been disposed of in the following manner:

the head to a great chief, called Kahoo-opeon; the hair to Maia-maia;

and the legs, thighs, and arms to Terreeoboo. After it was dark, many of

the inhabitants came off with roots and other vegetables; and we also

received two large presents of the same articles from Kaireekeea.

The 19th was chiefly taken up in sending and receiving the messages

which passed between Captain Clerke and Terreeoboo. Eappo was very

pressing, that one of our officers should go on shore; and, in the mean

time, offered to remain as an hostage on board. This request, however,

it was not thought proper to comply with; and he left us with a promise

of bringing the bones the next day. At the beach, the waterers did not

meet with the least opposition from the natives; who, notwithstanding

our cautious behaviour, came amongst us again, without the smallest

appearance of diffidence or apprehension.

Early in the morning of the 20th, we had the satisfaction of getting the

fore-mast stepped. It was an operation attended with great difficulty,

and some danger; our ropes being so exceedingly rotten, that the

purchase gave way several times.

Between ten and eleven o’clock, we saw a great number of people

descending the hill, which is over the beach, in a kind of procession,

each man carrying a sugar-cane or two on his shoulders, and bread-fruit,

_taro_, and plantains in his hand. They were preceded by two drummers

who, when they came to the water-side, sat down by a white flag, and

began to beat their drums, while those who had followed them, advanced

one by one; and, having deposited the presents they had brought, retired

in the same order. Soon after, Eappo came in sight, in his long

feathered cloak, bearing something with great solemnity in his hands;

and having placed himself on a rock, he made signs for a boat to be sent

him.

Captain Clerke, conjecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain

Cook, which proved to be the fact, went himself in the pinnace, to

receive them; and ordered me to attend him in the cutter. When we

arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace, and delivered to the

captain the bones wrapped up in a large quantity of fine new cloth, and

covered with a spotted cloak of black and white feathers. He afterward

attended us to the Resolution, but could not be prevailed upon to go on

board; probably not choosing, from a sense of decency, to be present at

the opening of the bundle. We found in it both the hands of Captain Cook

entire, which were well known from a remarkable scar on one of them,

that divided the thumb from the fore-finger, the whole length of the

metacarpal bone; the skull, but with the scalp separated from it, and

the bones that form the face wanting; the scalp, with the hair upon it

cut short, and the ears adhering to it; the bones of both arms, with the

skin of the fore-arms hanging to them; the thigh and leg-bones joined

together, but without the feet. The ligaments of the joints were entire;

and the whole bore evident marks of having been in the fire, except the

hands, which had the flesh left upon them, and were cut in several

places, and crammed with salt, apparently with an intention of

preserving them. The scalp had a cut in the back part of it, but the

skull was free from any fracture. The lower jaw and feet, which were

wanting, Eappo told us, had been seized by different chiefs, and that

Terreeoboo was using every means to recover them.

The next morning, Eappo, and the king’s son, came on board, and brought

with them the remaining bones of Captain Cook; the barrels of his gun,

his shoes, and some other trifles that belonged to him. Eappo took great

pains to convince us, that Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha, and himself were

most heartily desirous of peace; that they had given us the most

convincing proof of it in their power; and that they had been prevented

from giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were still our

enemies. He lamented, with the greatest sorrow, the death of six chiefs

we had killed, some of whom, he said, were amongst our best friends. The

cutter, he told us, was taken away by Pareea’s people; very probably in

revenge for the blow that had been given him; and that it had broken up

the next day. The arms of the marines, which we had also demanded, he

assured us, had been carried off by the common people, and were

irrecoverable; the bones of the chief alone having been preserved, as

belonging to Terreeoboo and the _Erees_.

Nothing now remained but to perform the last offices to our great and

unfortunate commander. Eappo was dismissed with orders to _taboo_ all

the bay; and, in the afternoon, the bones having been put into a coffin,

and the service read over them, they were committed to the deep with the

usual military honours. What our feelings were on this occasion, I leave

the world to conceive; those who were present know, that it is not in my

power to express them.

During the forenoon of the 22d, not a canoe was seen paddling in the

bay; the _taboo_, which Eappo had laid on it the day before, at our

request, not being yet taken off. At length Eappo came off to us. We

assured him, that we were now entirely satisfied; and that, as the

_Orono_ was buried, all remembrance of what had passed was buried with

him. We afterward desired him to take off the _taboo_, and to make it

known, that the people might bring their provisions as usual. The ships

were soon surrounded with canoes, and many of the chiefs came on board,

expressing great sorrow at what happened, and their satisfaction at our

reconciliation. Several of our friends, who did not visit us, sent

presents of large hogs, and other provisions. Amongst the rest came the

old treacherous Koah, but was refused admittance.

As we had now every thing ready for sea, Captain Clerke imagining that

if the news of our proceedings should reach the islands to leeward

before us, it might have a bad effect, gave orders to unmoor. About

eight in the evening we dismissed all the natives; and Eappo, and the

friendly Kaireekeea, took an affectionate leave of us. We immediately

weighed, and stood out of the bay. The natives were collected on the

shore in great numbers; and, as we passed along, received our last

farewells with every mark of affection and good-will.

CHAP. V.

DEPARTURE FROM KARAKAKOOA IN SEARCH OF AN HARBOUR ON THE SOUTH-EAST SIDE

OF MOWEE.—DRIVEN TO LEEWARD BY THE EASTERLY WINDS AND CURRENT.—PASS

THE ISLAND OF TAHOOROWA—DESCRIPTION OF THE SOUTH-WEST SIDE OF MOWEE.—

RUN ALONG THE COASTS OF RANAI AND MOROTOI TO WOAHOO.—DESCRIPTION OF

THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF WOAHOO.—UNSUCCESSFUL ATTEMPT TO WATER.—PASSAGE

TO ATOOI.—ANCHOR IN WYMOA BAY.—DANGEROUS SITUATION OF THE WATERING

PARTY ON SHORE.—CIVIL DISSENSIONS IN THE ISLANDS.—VISIT FROM THE

CONTENDING CHIEFS.—ANCHOR OFF ONEEHEOW.—FINAL DEPARTURE FROM THE

SANDWICH ISLANDS.

We got clear of the land about ten; and, hoisting in the boats, stood to

the northward, with an intention of searching for an harbour on the

south-east side of Mowee, which we had heard frequently mentioned by the

natives. The next morning we found ourselves driven to the leeward by a

heavy swell from the north-east; and a fresh gale springing up from the

same quarter carried us still farther to the westward. At midnight we

tacked, and stood to the south for four hours, in order to keep clear of

the land; and, at day-break, we found ourselves standing toward a small

barren island, called Tahoorowa, which lies seven or eight miles to the

south-west of Mowee.

All prospect of examining more nearly the south-east parts of Mowee

being now destroyed, we bore away, and ran along the south-east side of

Tahoorowa. As we were steering close round its western extremity, with

an intention of fetching the west side of Mowee, we suddenly shoaled our

water, and observed the sea breaking on some detached rocks, almost

right a-head. This obliged us to keep away a league and a half, when we

again steered to the northward; and, after passing over a bank, with

nineteen fathoms’ water, stood for a passage between Mowee and an island

called Ranai. At noon, the latitude was, by observation, 20° 42ʹ north,

and the longitude 203° 22ʹ east; the southern extremity of Mowee bearing

east south-east, quarter east; the southern extremity of Ranai west

north-west, quarter west; Morotoi, north-west and by north; and the

western extremity of Tahoorowa, south by east, seven miles distant. Our

longitude was accurately deduced from observations made by the

time-keeper before and after noon, compared with the longitude found by

a great many distances of the moon from the sun and stars, which were

also observed the same day.

In the afternoon, the weather being calm, with light airs from the west,

we stood on to the north north-west; but, at sun-set, observing a shoal,

which appeared to stretch to a considerable distance from the west point

of Mowee, toward the middle of the passage, and the weather being

unsettled, we tacked, and stood toward the south.

The south-west side of this island, which we now had passed without

being able to get near the shore, forms the same distant view with the

north-east, as seen on our return from the north, in November 1778; the

mountainous parts, which are connected by a low, flat isthmus, appearing

at first like two separate islands. This deception continued on the

south-west side, till we approached within eight or ten leagues of the

coast, which, bending inward, to a great depth, formed a fine capacious

bay. The westernmost point, off which the shoal we have just mentioned

runs, is made remarkable by a small hillock, to the southward of which

there is a fine sandy bay, with several huts on the shore, and a number

of cocoa-nut trees growing about them.

During the course of the day, we were visited by several of the natives,

who came off to sell provisions; and we soon found, that they had heard

of our late unfortunate transactions at Owhyhee. They were very curious

to learn the particulars from a woman who had concealed herself on board

the Resolution, in order to take her passage to Atooi; inquiring eagerly

after Pareea, and some other chiefs, and appearing much shocked at the

death of Kaneena, and his brother. We had, however, the satisfaction to

find, that in whatever light the woman might have represented this

business, it had no bad effect on their behaviour, which was remarkably

civil and submissive.

The weather continued variable during the night; but in the morning of

the 25th, having the wind at east, we ran along the south side of Ranai,

till near noon; after which, we had calms and baffling winds till

evening, when we steered, with a light easterly breeze, for the west

part of Morotoi. In the course of the day, the current, which, from the

time we left Karakakooa Bay, had set from the north-east, changed its

direction to the south-east.

During the night the wind was again variable; but early next morning, it

settled at east, and blew so fresh as to oblige us to double-reef the

topsails. At seven, on hauling round the west point of Morotoi, we

opened a small bay, at the distance of about two leagues, with a fine

sandy beach; but seeing no appearance of fresh water, we stood on to the

north, in order to get to the windward of Woahoo, an island which we had

seen at our first visit, in January 1778.

At two in the afternoon, we saw the land, bearing west by north, eight

leagues distant; and having tacked as soon as it was dark, we again bore

away at day-light on the 27th; and at half past ten, were within a

league of the shore, near the middle of the north-east side of the

island.

The coast, to the northward, is formed of detached hills, rising

perpendicularly from the sea, with ragged and broken summits; the sides

covered with wood, and the valleys between them of a fertile and well

cultivated appearance. To the southward, we saw an extensive bay,

bounded by a low point of land to the south-east which was covered with

cocoa-nut trees; and off it stood a high insulated rock, about a mile

from the shore. The haziness of the weather prevented our seeing

distinctly the land to the southward of the point; we could only

perceive that it was high and broken.

As the wind continued to blow very fresh, we thought it dangerous to

entangle ourselves with a lee-shore; and therefore did not attempt to

examine the bay, but hauled up, and steered to the northward, in the

direction of the coast. At noon, we were abreast of the north point of

the island, about two leagues from the land, which is low and flat, and

has a reef stretching off it to the distance of near a mile and a half.

The latitude, by observation, 21° 50ʹ north, longitude 202° 15ʹ east;

the extreme parts of the island in sight, bearing south south-east,

quarter east, and south-west by south, three-quarters west.

Between the north point and a distant headland, which we saw to the

south-west, the land bends inward considerably, and appeared likely to

afford a good road. We therefore directed our course along the shore, at

the distance of about a mile, carrying regular soundings from twenty to

thirteen fathoms. At a quarter past two, the sight of a fine river,

running through a deep valley, induced us to come to an anchor in

thirteen fathoms water, with a sandy bottom; the extreme points of the

bay bearing south-west by west half west, and north-east by east

three-quarters east; and the mouth of the river south-east half east,

one mile distant. In the afternoon, I attended the two captains on

shore, where we found but few of the natives, and those mostly women;

the men, they told us, were gone to Morotoi to fight Tahyterree; but

that their chief Perreeoranee, who had stayed behind, would certainly

visit us, as soon as he heard of our arrival.

We were much disappointed to find the water had a brackish taste for two

hundred yards up the river, owing to the marshy ground through which it

empties itself into the sea. Beyond this, it was perfectly fresh, and

formed a fine running stream, along the side of which I walked, till I

came to the conflux of two small rivulets, that branched off to the

right and left of a remarkably steep and romantic mountain. The banks of

this river, and indeed the whole we saw of the north-west part of

Woahoo, are well cultivated, and full of villages; and the face of the

country is uncommonly beautiful and picturesque.

As the watering at this place would have been attended with great

labour, I was sent to examine the coast to leeward; but not being able

to land, on account of a reef of coral, which stretched along the shore

to the distance of half a mile, Captain Clerke determined, without

farther loss of time, to proceed to Atooi. At eight in the morning we

weighed, and stood to the northward, till day-light on the 28th, when we

bore away for that island, which we were in sight of by noon; and about

sunset, were off its eastern extremity, which shews itself in a fine,

green, flat point.

It being too late to run for the road, on the south-west side of the

island, where we had been the last year, we passed the night in plying

on and off, and at nine the next morning, came to an anchor in

twenty-five fathoms water, and moored with the best bower in

thirty-eight fathoms, the bluff-head, on the west side of the village,

bearing north-east by north three-quarters east, two miles distant; the

extremes of the island, north-west by west three-quarters west, and

south-east by east half east; the island of Oneheow west by south half

west. In running down to the road, from the south-east point of the

island, we saw the appearance of shoal water, in several places, at a

considerable distance from the land; and when we were about two miles to

the eastward of the anchoring-place and two or three miles from the

shore, we got into four and half fathoms water, although our soundings

had usually been seven and eight fathoms.

We had no sooner anchored in our old station, than several canoes came

along side of us; but we could observe, that they did not welcome us

with the same cordiality in their manner, and satisfaction in their

countenances, as when we were here before. As soon as they got on board,

one of the men began to tell us, that we had left a disorder amongst

their women, of which several persons of both sexes had died. He was

himself afflicted with the venereal disease, and gave a very full and

minute account of the various symptoms with which it had been attended.

As there was not the slightest appearance of that disorder amongst them

on our first arrival, I am afraid it is not to be denied, that we were

the authors of this irreparable mischief.

Our principal object here was to water the ships with the utmost

expedition; and I was sent on shore early in the afternoon, with the

pinnace and launch laden with casks. The gunner of the Resolution

accompanied me to trade for provisions; and we had a guard of five

marines. We found a considerable number of people collected upon the

beach, who received us at first with great kindness; but as soon as we

had got the casks on shore, began to be exceedingly troublesome. Former

experience having taught me how difficult it was to repress this

disposition, without having recourse to the authority of their chiefs, I

was very sorry to find, that they were all at another part of the

island. Indeed we soon felt the want of their assistance; for it was

with great difficulty I was able to form a circle, according to our

usual practice, for the convenience and security of the trading party;

and had no sooner done it, and posted guards to keep off the crowd, than

I saw a man laying hold of the bayonet of one of the soldiers’ muskets,

and endeavouring, with all his force, to wrench it out of his hand. On

my coming up to them, the native let go his hold and retired; but

returned in a moment with a spear in one hand, and dagger in the other;

and his countrymen had much ado to restrain him from trying his prowess

with the soldier. This fray was occasioned by the latter’s having given

the man a slight prick with his bayonet, in order to make him keep

without the line.

I now perceived, that our situation required great circumspection and

management; and accordingly gave the strictest orders, that no one

should fire, nor have recourse to any other act of violence, without

positive commands. As soon as I had given these directions, I was called

to the assistance of the watering party, where I found the natives

equally inclined to mischief. They had demanded from our people a large

hatchet for every cask of water; and this not being complied with, they

would not suffer the sailors to roll them down to the boats.

I had no sooner joined them, than one of the natives advanced up to me,

with great insolence, and made the same claim. I told him, that, as a

friend, I was very willing to present him with a hatchet, but that I

should certainly carry off the water without paying any thing for it;

and I immediately ordered the pinnace men to proceed in their business,

and called three marines from the traders to protect them.

Though this shew of spirit succeeded so far as to make the natives

desist from any open attempt to interrupt us, they still continued to

behave in the most teasing and provoking manner. Whilst some of them,

under pretence of assisting the men in rolling down the casks, turned

them out of their course, and gave them a wrong direction, others were

stealing the hats from off the sailors’ heads, pulling them backward by

their clothes, or tripping up their heels; the whole crowd all this time

shouting and laughing, with a strange mixture of childishness and

malice. They afterward found means to steal the cooper’s bucket, and

took away his bag by force; but the objects they were most eager to

possess themselves of, were the muskets of the marines, who were every

instant complaining of their attempts to force them out of their hands.

Though they continued, for the most part, to pay great deference and

respect to me, yet they did not suffer me to escape without contributing

my share to their stock of plunder. One of them came up to me with a

familiar air, and with great management diverted my attention, whilst

another, wrenching the hanger which I held carelessly in my hand, from

me, ran off with it like lightning.

It was in vain to think of repelling this insolence by force; guarding

therefore against its effects, in the best manner we were able, we had

nothing to do but to submit patiently to it. My apprehensions were,

however, a little alarmed, by the information I soon after received from

the serjeant of marines, who told me, that, turning suddenly round, he

saw a man behind me holding a dagger in the position of striking. In

this he might possibly be mistaken; yet our situation was certainly

alarming and critical, and the smallest error on our side might have

been fatal to us. As our people were separated into three small parties,

one at the lake, filling casks, another rolling them down to the shore,

and the third, at some distance, purchasing provisions, it had once

occurred to me, that it might be proper to collect them all together,

and to execute and protect one duty at a time. But on second thoughts, I

judged it more advisable to let them continue as they were. In case of a

real attack, our whole force, however advantageously disposed, could

have made but a poor resistance. On the other hand, I thought it of some

consequence to shew the natives, that we were under no fears; and, what

was still more material, the crowd was, by this means, kept divided, and

a considerable part of them fully employed in bartering provisions.

It is probable that their dread of the effects of our arms, was the

principal cause of their backwardness in attacking us; and indeed the

confidence we appeared to place in this advantage, by opposing only five

marines to their whole force, must have raised in them a very high idea

of our superiority. It was our business to keep up this opinion as much

as possible; and in justice to the whole party, I must observe, that no

men could possibly behave better, for the purpose of strengthening these

impressions. Whatever could be taken in jest, they bore with the utmost

temper and patience; and whenever any serious attempt was made to

interrupt them, they opposed it with bold looks and menaces. By this

management, we succeeded so far, as to get all the casks down to the

water side, without any material accident.

While we were getting them into the launch, the natives, perceiving the

opportunity of plundering would soon be over, became every moment more

daring and insolent. On this occasion, I was indebted to the serjeant of

marines for suggesting to me, the advantage that would arise from

sending off his party first into the boats; by which means, the muskets

of the soldiers, which, as I have already mentioned, were the objects

the islanders had principally in view, would be removed out of their

reach; and in case of an attack, the marines themselves might be

employed more effectually in our defence, than if they were on shore.

We had now got every thing into the boats, and only Mr. Anderson the

gunner, a seaman of the boat’s crew, and myself, remained on shore. As

the pinnace lay beyond the surf, through which we were obliged to swim,

I told them to make the best of their way to it, and that I should

follow them.

With this order I was surprised to find them both refuse to comply; and

the consequence was a contest amongst us who should be the last on

shore. It seems, that some hasty words I had just before used to the

sailor, which he thought reflected on his courage, was the cause of this

odd fancy in him; and the old gunner, finding a point of honour started,

thought he could not well avoid taking a part in it. In this ridiculous

situation we might have remained some time, had not our dispute been

soon settled by the stones that began to fly about us, and by the cries

of the people from the boats, to make haste, as the natives were

following us into the water with clubs and spears. I reached the side of

the pinnace first, and finding Mr. Anderson was at some distance behind,

and not yet entirely out of danger, I called out to the marines to fire

one musket. In the hurry of executing my orders, they fired two; and

when I got into the boat, I saw the natives running away, and one man,

with a woman sitting by him, left behind on the beach. The man made

several attempts to rise, without being able; and it was with much

regret, I perceived him to be wounded in the groin. The natives soon

after returned, and surrounded the wounded man, brandishing their spears

and daggers at us, with an air of threatening and defiance; but before

we reached the ships, we saw some persons, whom we supposed to be the

chiefs, now arrived, driving them away from the shore.

During our absence, Captain Clerke had been under the greatest anxiety

for our safety. And these apprehensions were considerably increased,

from his having entirely mistaken the drift of the conversation he had

held with some natives who had been on board. The frequent mention of

the name of Captain Cook, with other strong and circumstantial

descriptions of death and destruction, made him conclude, that the

knowledge of the unfortunate events at Owhyhee had reached them, and

that these were what they alluded to; whereas all they had in view was,

to make known to him the wars that had arisen, in consequence of the

goats that Captain Cook had left at Oneeheow, and the slaughter of the

poor goats themselves, during the struggle for the property of them.

Captain Clerke, applying this earnestness of conversation, and these

terrible representations, to our calamitous transactions at Owhyhee, and

to an indication of revenge, kept his telescope fixed upon us, and the

moment he saw the smoke of the muskets, ordered the boats to be manned

and armed, and to put off to our assistance.

The next morning I was again ordered on shore with the watering party.

The risk we had run the preceding day, determined Captain Clerke to send

a considerable force from both ships for our guard, amounting in all to

forty men under arms. This precaution, however, was now unnecessary; for

we found the beach left entirely to ourselves, and the ground between

the landing place and the lake, _tabooed_, with small white flags. We

concluded, from this appearance, that some of the chiefs had certainly

visited this quarter; and that, not being able to stay, they had kindly

and considerately taken this step, for our greater security and

convenience. We saw several men armed with long spears and daggers on

the other side of the river, on our right; but they did not offer to

give us the least molestation. Their women came over, and sat down on

the banks close by us, and at noon we prevailed on some of the men to

bring hogs and roots for our people, and to dress them for us. As soon

as we had left the beach, they came down to the sea side, and one of

them threw a stone at us; but his conduct seeming to be highly

disapproved of by all the rest, we did not think it proper to show any

resentment.

The next day we completed our watering without meeting with any material

difficulty. On our return to the ships, we found that several chiefs had

been on board, and had made excuses for the behaviour of their

countrymen, attributing their riotous conduct to the quarrels which

subsisted at that time amongst the principal people of the island, and

which had occasioned a general want of order and subordination amongst

them. The government of Atooi was in dispute between Toneoneo, who had

the supreme power when we were here last year, and a boy named Teavee.

They are both, by different fathers, the grandsons of Pereeorannee, king

of Woahoo, who had given the government of Atooi to the former, and that

of Oneeheow to the latter. The quarrel had arisen about the goats we had

left at Oneeheow the last year: the right of property in which was

claimed by Toneoneo, on the pretence of that island’s being a dependency

of his. The friends of Teavee insisting on the right of possession, both

parties prepared to maintain their pretensions by force; and a few days

before our arrival, a battle had been fought, in which Toneoneo had been

worsted. The consequence of this victory was likely to affect Toneoneo

in a much deeper manner than by the mere loss of the objects in dispute;

for the mother of Teavee, having married a second husband, who was a

chief of Atooi, and at the head of a powerful faction there, he thought

that the present opportunity was not to be neglected of driving Toneoneo

entirely out of the island, and of advancing his son-in-law to the

government. I have already had occasion to mention that the goats, which

had increased to the number of six, and would probably in a few years

have stocked all these islands, were destroyed in the contest.

On the 4th, the mother and sister of the young prince and his

father-in-law, with many other chiefs of that party, came on board the

Resolution, and made several curious and valuable presents to Captain

Clerke. Amongst the former, were some fish-hooks, which they assured us

were made of the bones of our old friend Terreeoboo’s father, who had

been killed in an unsuccessful descent upon the island of Woahoo; and a

fly flap, presented to him by the prince’s sister, the handle of which

was a human bone, that had been given her as a trophy by her

father-in-law. Young Teavee was not of the company, being engaged, as we

were told, in performing some religious ceremonies, in consequence of

the victory he had obtained, which were to last twenty days.

This and the two following days were employed on shore in completing the

Discovery’s water; and the carpenters were busy on board, in caulking

the ships, and in making other preparations for our next cruise. The

natives desisted from giving us any further disturbance; and we procured

from them a plentiful supply of pork and vegetables.

At this time, an Indian brought a piece of iron on board the Discovery,

to be fashioned into the shape of _pahooa_. It was carefully examined

both by the officers and men, and appeared to be the bolt of some large

ship timbers. They were not able to discover to what nation it belonged;

but from the pale colour[10] of the iron, and its not corresponding in

shape to our bolts, they concluded that it certainly was not English.

This led them to make a strict inquiry of the native, when and where he

got it; and if they comprehended him right, it had been taken out of a

piece of timber, larger than the cable bit, to which he pointed. This

piece of wood, they farther understood from him, to have been driven

upon their island, since we were here in January 1778.

On the 7th, we were surprised with a visit from Toneoneo. When he heard

the dowager princess was in the ship, it was with great difficulty we

could prevail on him to come on board, not from any apprehension that he

appeared to entertain of his safety, but from an unwillingness to see

her. Their meeting was with sulky and lowering looks on both sides. He

staid but a short time, and seemed much dejected; but we remarked, with

some surprise, that the women, both at his coming and going away,

prostrated themselves before him; and that he was treated by all the

natives on board with the respect usually paid to those of his rank.

Indeed, it must appear somewhat extraordinary, that a person, who was at

this time in a state of actual hostility with Teavee’s party, and was

even prepared for another battle, should trust himself almost alone

within the power of his enemies. It is therefore to be observed, that

the civil dissentions, which are very frequent throughout all the South

Sea Islands, seem to be carried on without much acrimony or bloodshed;

and that the deposed governor still continues to enjoy the rank of an

_Eree_, and is left to make use of such means as may arise for the

regaining his lost consequence. But I shall have occasion to speak more

particularly on this subject in the next chapter; in which the best

account will be given, which we were able to collect, of the political

state of those countries.

On the 8th, at nine in the morning, we weighed, and sailed toward

Oneeheow; and at three in the afternoon, anchored in twenty fathoms

water, nearly on the same spot as in the year 1778. We moored with the

other anchor in twenty-six fathoms’ water. The high bluff, on the south

end of the island, bore east south-east; the north point of the road,

north half east; and a bluff head to the south of it, north-east by

north. During the night we had a strong gale from the eastward; and, in

the morning of the 9th, found the ship had driven a whole cable’s

length, and brought both anchors almost ahead. We shortened in the best

bower cable; but the wind blowing too fresh to unmoor, we were obliged

to remain this and the two following days, with the anchors still ahead.

On the 12th, the weather being moderate, the master was sent to the

north-west side of the island to look for a more convenient place for

anchoring. He returned in the evening, having found, close round the

west point of the road where we now lay, which is also the westernmost

point of the island, a fine bay, with good anchorage, in eighteen

fathoms’ water, a clear sandy bottom, not a mile from the beach, on

which the surf beats, but not so as to hinder landing. The direction of

the points of the bay were north by east, and south by west; and, in

that line, the soundings seven, eight, and nine fathoms. On the north

side of the bay was a small village; and a quarter of a mile to the

eastward, were four small wells of good water; the road to them level,

and fit for rolling casks. Mr. Bligh went afterward so far to the north

as to satisfy himself, that Oreehoua was a separate island from

Oneeheow; and that there was a passage between them; which, before, we

only conjectured to exist.

In the afternoon we hoisted in all the boats, and made ready for going

to sea in the morning.

CHAP. VI.

GENERAL ACCOUNT OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.—THEIR NUMBER, NAMES, AND

SITUATION.—OWHYHEE.—ITS EXTENT AND DIVISION INTO DISTRICTS.—ACCOUNT OF

ITS COASTS, AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY.—VOLCANIC APPEARANCES.—SNOWY

MOUNTAINS.—THEIR HEIGHT DETERMINED.—ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY INTO THE

INTERIOR PARTS OF THE COUNTRY.—MOWEE.—TAHOOROWA.—MOROTOI.—RANAI.—

WOAHOO.—ATOOI.—ONEEHEOW.—OREEHOUA.—TAHOORA.—CLIMATE.—WINDS—CURRENTS—

TIDES.—ANIMALS AND VEGETABLES.—ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS.

As we are now about to take our final leave of the Sandwich Islands, it

will not be improper to introduce here some general account of their

situation and natural history, and of the manners and customs of the

inhabitants.

This subject has indeed been, in some measure, pre-occupied by persons

far more capable of doing it justice, than I can pretend to be. Had

Captain Cook and Mr. Anderson lived to avail themselves of the

advantages which we enjoyed by a return to these islands, it cannot be

questioned, that the public would have derived much additional

information from the skill and diligence of two such accurate observers.

The reader will therefore lament with me our common misfortune, which

hath deprived him of the labours of such superior abilities, and imposed

on me the task of presenting him with the best supplementary account the

various duties of my station permitted me to furnish.

This group consists of eleven islands, extending in latitude from 18°

54ʹ to 22° 15ʹ north; and in longitude from 199° 36ʹ to 205° 06ʹ east.

They are called by the natives; 1. Owhyhee. 2. Mowee. 3. Ranai, or

Oranai. 4. Morotinnee, or Morokinnee. 5. Kahowrowee, or Tahoorowa. 6.

Morotoi, or Morokoi. 7. Woahoo, or Oahoo. 8. Atooi, Atowi, or Towi, and

sometimes Kowi.[11] 9. Neeheehow, or Oneeheow. 10. Oreehoua, or Reehoua;

and, 11. Tahoora; and are all inhabited, excepting Morotinnee and

Tahoora. Besides the islands above enumerated, we were told by the

Indians, that there is another called Modoopapapa[12], or Komodoopapapa,

lying to the west south-west of Tahoora, which is low and sandy, and

visited only for the purpose of catching turtle and sea-fowl; and, as I

could never learn that they knew of any others, it is probable that none

exist in their neighbourhood.

They were named by Captain Cook the _Sandwich Islands_, in honour of the

EARL of SANDWICH, under whose administration he had enriched geography

with so many splendid and important discoveries; a tribute justly due to

that noble person for the liberal support these voyages derived from his

power, in whatever could extend their utility, or promote their success;

for the zeal with which he seconded the views of that great navigator;

and if I may be allowed to add the voice of private gratitude, for the

generous protection, which, since the death of their unfortunate

commander, he has afforded all the officers that served under him.

Owhyhee, the easternmost, and by much the largest, of these islands, is

of a triangular shape, and nearly equilateral. The angular points make

the north, east, and south extremities, of which the northern is in

latitude 20° 17ʹ north, longitude 204° 02ʹ east: the eastern in latitude

19° 34ʹ north, longitude 205° 06ʹ east: and the southern extremity in

latitude 18° 54ʹ north, longitude 204° 15ʹ east. Its greatest length,

which lies in a direction nearly north and south, is 28-1/2 leagues; its

breadth is 24 leagues; and it is about 255 geographical, or 293 English

miles, in circumference. The whole island is divided into six large

districts; Amakooa and Aheedoo, which lie on the north-east side; Apoona

and Kaoo on the south-east; Akona and Kooarra on the west.

The districts of Amakooa and Aheedoo are separated by a mountain, called

Mouna Kaah (or the mountain Kaah), which rises in three peaks,

perpetually covered with snow, and may be clearly seen at 40 leagues’

distance.

To the north of this mountain the coast consists of high and abrupt

cliffs, down which fall many beautiful cascades of water. We were once

flattered with the hopes of meeting with a harbour round a bluff head,

in latitude 20° 10ʹ north, and longitude 204° 26ʹ east; but, on doubling

the point, and standing close in, we found it connected by a low valley

with another high head to the north-west. The country rises inland with

a gentle ascent, is intersected by deep narrow glens, or rather chasms,

and appeared to be well cultivated and sprinkled over with a number of

villages. The snowy mountain is very steep and the lower part of it

covered with wood.

The coast of Aheedoo, which lies to the south of Mouna Kaah, is of a

moderate height, and the interior parts appear more even than the

country to the north-west, and less broken by ravines. Off these two

districts we cruized for almost a month; and, whenever our distance from

shore would permit it, were sure of being surrounded by canoes laden

with all kinds of refreshments. We had frequently a very heavy sea, and

great swell on this side of the island, and as we had no soundings, and

could observe much foul ground off the shore, we never approached nearer

the land than two or three leagues, excepting on the occasion already

mentioned.

The coast to the north-east of Apoona, which forms the eastern extremity

of the island, is low and flat; the acclivity of the inland parts is

very gradual, and the whole country covered with cocoa-nut and

bread-fruit trees. This, as far as we could judge, is the finest part of

the island, and we were afterward told that the king had a place of

residence here. At the south-west extremity the hills rise abruptly from

the sea side, leaving but a narrow border of low ground toward the

beach. We were pretty near the shore at this part of the island, and

found the sides of the hills covered with a fine verdure; but the

country seemed to be very thinly inhabited. On doubling the east point

of the island, we came in sight of another snowy mountain, called Mouna

Roa (or the extensive mountain), which continued to be a very

conspicuous object all the while we were sailing along the south-east

side. It is flat at the top, making what is called by mariners

table-land: the summit was constantly buried in snow, and we once saw

its sides also slightly covered for a considerable way down; but the

greatest part of this disappeared again in a few days.

According to the tropical line of snow, as determined by Mr. Condamine,

from observations taken on the Cordilleras, this mountain must be at

least 16,020 feet high, which exceeds the height of the Pico de Teyde,

or Peak of Teneriffe, by 724 feet, according to Dr. Heberden’s

computation, or 3680, according to that of the Chevalier de Borda. The

peaks of Mouna Kaah appeared to be about half a mile high; and as they

are entirely covered with snow, the altitude of their summits cannot be

less than 18,400 feet. But it is probable that both these mountains may

be considerably higher. For, in insular situations, the effects of the

warm sea air must necessarily remove the line of snow, in equal

latitudes, to a greater height than where the atmosphere is chilled on

all sides by an immense tract of perpetual snow.

The coast of Kaoo presents a prospect of the most horrid and dreary

kind: the whole country appearing to have undergone a total change from

the effects of some dreadful convulsion. The ground is every where

covered with cinders, and intersected in many places with black streaks,

which seem to mark the course of a lava that has flowed, not many ages

back, from the mountain Roa to the shore. The southern promontory looks

like the mere dregs of a volcano. The projecting head-land is composed

of broken and craggy rocks, piled irregularly on one another, and

terminating in sharp points.

Notwithstanding the dismal aspect of this part of the island, there are

many villages scattered over it; and it certainly is much more populous

than the verdant mountains of Apoona. Nor is this circumstance hard to

be accounted for. As these islanders have no cattle, they have

consequently no use for pasturage, and therefore naturally prefer such

ground, as either lies more convenient for fishing, or is best suited to

the cultivation of yams and plantains. Now, amidst these ruins, there

are many patches of rich soil, which are carefully laid out in

plantations, and the neighbouring sea abounds with a variety of most

excellent fish, with which, as well as with other provisions, we were

always plentifully supplied. Off this part of the coast, we could find

no ground at less than a cable’s length from the shore, with a hundred

and sixty fathoms of line, excepting in a small bight to the eastward of

the south point, where we had regular soundings of fifty and fifty-eight

fathoms over a bottom of fine sand. Before we proceed to the western

districts, it may be necessary to remark, that the whole coast side of

the island, from the northern to the southern extremity, does not afford

the smallest harbour, or shelter for shipping.

The south-west parts of Akona are in the same state with the adjoining

district of Kaoo; but farther to the north, the country has been

cultivated with great pains, and is extremely populous.

In this part of the island is situated Karakakooa Bay, which has been

already described. Along the coast nothing is seen but large masses of

slag, and the fragments of black scorched rocks; behind which, the

ground rises gradually for about two miles and a half, and appears to

have been formerly covered with loose burnt stones. These the natives

have taken the pains of clearing away, frequently to the depth of three

feet and upward; which labour, great as it is, the fertility of the soil

amply repays. Here, in a rich ashy mould, they cultivate sweet potatoes,

and the cloth-plant. The fields are inclosed with stone-fences, and are

interspersed with groves of cocoa-nut trees. On the rising ground beyond

these, the bread-fruit trees are planted, and flourish with the greatest

luxuriance.

Koaara extends from the westernmost point to the northern extremity of

the island; the whole coast between them forming an extensive bay,

called Toe-yah-yah, which is bounded to the north by two very

conspicuous hills. Toward the bottom of this bay there is foul, corally

ground, extending upward of a mile from the shore, without which the

soundings are regular, with good anchorage, in twenty fathoms. The

country, as far as the eye could reach, seemed fruitful and well

inhabited, the soil being in appearance of the same kind with the

district of Kaoo; but no fresh water is to be got here.

I have hitherto confined myself to the coasts of this island, and the

adjacent country, which is all that I had an opportunity of being

acquainted with from my own observation. The only account I can give of

the interior parts, is from the information I obtained from a party who

set out on the afternoon of the 26th of January, on an expedition up the

country, with an intention of penetrating as far as they could; and

principally of reaching, if possible, the snowy mountains.

Having procured two natives to serve them as guides, they left the

village about four o’clock in the afternoon, directing their course a

little to the southward of the east. To the distance of three or four

miles from the bay, they found the country as before described; the

hills afterward rose with a more sudden ascent, which brought them to

the extensive plantations, that terminate the view of the country, as

seen from the ships.

These plantations consist of the[13] tarrow or eddy root, and the sweet

potatoe, with plants of the cloth-tree, neatly set out in rows. The

walls that separate them are made of the loose burnt stones, which are

got in clearing the ground; and, being entirely concealed by

sugar-canes, planted close on each side, make the most beautiful fences

that can be conceived. The party stopped for the night at the second hut

they found amongst the plantations, where they judged themselves to be

about six or seven miles from the ships. They described the prospect

from this spot as very delightful; they saw the ships in the bay before

them; to the left, a continued range of villages, interspersed with

groves of cocoa-nut trees spreading along the sea-shore; a thick wood

stretching out of sight behind them; and to the right, an extent of

ground laid out in regular and well cultivated plantations, as far as

the eye could reach.

Near this spot, at a distance from any other dwelling, the natives

pointed out to them the residence of an hermit, who, they said, had

formerly been a great chief and warrior, but had long ago quitted the

shores of the island, and now never stirred from his cottage. They

prostrated themselves as they approached him, and afterward presented to

him a part of such provisions as they had brought with them. His

behaviour was easy and cheerful; he scarce shewed any marks of

astonishment at the sight of our people, and though pressed to accept

some of our curiosities, he declined the offer, and soon withdrew to his

cottage. He was described as by far the oldest person any of the party

had ever seen, and judged to be, by those who computed his age at the

lowest, upward of 100 years old.

As our people had imagined the mountain not to be more than ten or

twelve miles from the bay, and consequently, that they should reach it

with ease early the next morning, an error into which its great height

had probably led them, they were now much surprised to find the distance

scarce perceptibly diminished. This circumstance, together with the

uninhabited state of the country they were going to enter, made it

necessary to procure a supply of provisions; and for that purpose they

dispatched one of their guides back to the village. Whilst they were

waiting his return, they were joined by some of Kaoo’s servants, whom

that benevolent old man had sent after them, as soon as he heard of

their journey, laden with refreshments, and authorized, as their route

lay through his grounds, to demand and take away whatever they might

have occasion for.

Our travellers were much astonished to find the cold here so intense;

but having no thermometer with them, could judge of it only by their

feelings; which, from the warm atmosphere they had left, must have been

a very fallacious measure. They found it, however, so cold that they

could get but little sleep, and the natives none at all; both parties

being disturbed the whole night by continued coughing. As they could not

at this time be at any very considerable height, the distance from the

sea being only six or seven miles, and part of the road on a very

moderate ascent, this extraordinary degree of cold must be ascribed to

the easterly wind blowing fresh over the snowy mountains.

Early on the 27th they set out again, and filled their calibashes at an

excellent well, about half a mile from their hut. Having passed the

plantations, they came to a thick wood, which they entered by a path

made for the convenience of the natives, who go thither to fetch the

wild or horse plantain, and to catch birds. Their progress now became

very slow, and attended with much labour; the ground being either

swampy, or covered with large stones; the path narrow, and frequently

interrupted by trees lying across it, which it was necessary to climb

over, the thickness of the under-wood on both sides making it impossible

to pass round them. In these woods they observed, at small distances,

pieces of white cloth fixed on poles, which they supposed to be

landmarks for the division of property, as they only met with them where

the wild plantains grew. The trees, which are of the same kind with

those we called the spice-tree at New Holland, were lofty and straight,

and from two to four feet in circumference.

After they had advanced about ten miles in the wood, they had the

mortification to find themselves on a sudden within sight of the sea,

and at no great distance from it; the path having turned imperceptibly

to the southward, and carried them to the right of the mountain, which

it was their object to reach. Their disappointment was greatly increased

by the uncertainty they were now under of its true bearings, since they

could not, at this time, get a view of it from the top of the highest

trees. They, therefore, found themselves obliged to walk back six or

seven miles to an unoccupied hut, where they had left three of the

natives, and two of their own people, with the small stock that remained

of their provisions. Here they spent the second night; and the air was

so very sharp and so little to the liking of their guides, that, by the

morning, they had all taken themselves off, except one.

The want of provisions now making it necessary to return to some of the

cultivated parts of the island, they quitted the wood by the same path

they had entered it; and, on their arrival at the plantations, were

surrounded by the natives, of whom they purchased a fresh stock of

necessaries; and prevailed upon two of them to supply the place of the

guides that were gone away. Having obtained the best information in

their power, with regard to the direction of their road, the party being

now nine in number, marched along the skirts of the wood for six or

seven miles, and then entered it again by a path that bore to the

eastward. For the first three miles they passed through a forest of

lofty spice-trees, growing on a strong rich loam; at the back of which

they found an equal extent of low shrubby trees, with much thick

underwood, on a bottom of loose burnt stones. This led them to a second

forest of spice-trees, and the same rich brown soil, which was again

succeeded by a barren ridge of the same nature with the former. This

alternate succession may, perhaps, afford matter of curious speculation

to naturalists. The only additional circumstance I could learn relating

to it, was, that these ridges appeared, as far as they could be seen, to

run in directions parallel to the sea shore, and to have Mouna Roa for

their centre.

In passing through the woods, they found many canoes half finished, and

here and there a hut; but saw none of the inhabitants. Having penetrated

near three miles into the second wood, they came to two huts, where they

stopped, exceedingly fatigued with the day’s journey, having walked not

less than twenty miles, according to their own computation. As they had

met with no springs from the time they left the plantation-ground, and

began to suffer much from the violence of their thirst, they were

obliged, before the night came on, to separate into parties, and go in

search of water; and at last found some left by rain in the bottom of an

unfinished canoe; which, though of the colour of red wine, was to them

no unwelcome discovery. In the night, the cold was still more intense

than they had found it before; and, though they had wrapped themselves

up in mats and cloths of the country, and kept a large fire between the

two huts, they could yet sleep but very little; and were obliged to walk

about the greatest part of the night.

Their elevation was now probably pretty considerable, as the ground on

which they had travelled, had been generally on the ascent.

On the 29th, at day break, they set out, intending to make their last

and utmost effort to reach the snowy mountain; but their spirits were

much depressed, when they found they had expended the miserable pittance

of water, they had found the night before. The path, which extended no

farther than where canoes had been built, was now at an end; and they

were therefore obliged to make their way as well as they could; every

now and then climbing up into the highest trees to explore the country

round. At eleven o’clock, they came to a ridge of burnt stones, from the

top of which they saw the snowy mountain, appearing to be about twelve

or fourteen miles from them.

It was here deliberated whether they should proceed any further, or rest

satisfied with the view they now had of Mouna Roa. The road, ever since

the path ceased, had become exceedingly fatiguing; and every moment they

advanced, was growing still more so. The deep chinks, with which the

ground was every where broken, being slightly covered with moss, made

them stumble at almost every step; and the intermediate space was a

surface of loose burnt stones, which broke under their feet like

potsherds. They threw stones into several of these chinks; which, by the

noise they made, seemed to fall to a considerable depth, and the ground

sounded hollow under their feet. Besides these discouraging

circumstances, they found their guides so averse to going on, that they

believed, whatever their own determinations might have been, they could

not have prevailed on them to remain out another night. They, therefore,

at last agreed to return to the ships, after taking a view of the

country from the highest trees which the place afforded. From this

elevation they saw themselves surrounded on all sides with wood toward

the sea; they could not distinguish, in the horizon, the sky from the

water; and between them and the snowy mountain, was a valley about seven

or eight miles broad, above which the mountain appeared only as a hill

of a moderate size.

They rested this night at a hut in the second wood, and on the 30th,

before noon, they had got clear of the first, and found themselves about

nine miles to the north-east of the ships, toward which they directed

their march through the plantations. As they passed along, they did not

observe a single spot of ground that was capable of improvement, left

unplanted; and, indeed, it appeared, from their account, hardly possible

for the country to be cultivated to greater advantage for the purposes

of the inhabitants, or made to yield them a larger supply of necessaries

for their subsistence. They were surprised to meet with several fields

of hay; and on inquiring to what uses it was applied, were told it was

designed to cover the young tarrow grounds, in order to preserve them

from being scorched by the sun. They saw a few scattered huts amongst

the plantations, which served for occasional shelter to the labourers;

but no villages at a greater distance than four or five miles from the

sea. Near one of them, about four miles from the bay, they found a cave

forty fathoms long, three broad, and of the same height. It was open at

both ends; the sides were fluted, as if wrought with a chissel, and the

surface glazed over, probably by the action of fire.

Having given this account of the most material circumstances that

occurred on the expedition to the snowy mountain, I shall now return to

the other islands that remain to be described.