THE following letter to the Editor of the _Weekly Magazine_, in 1772,
may be regarded as originating the idea of the _Guide-Books_ to Scottish
Scenery, now so numerous. It is interesting to look back upon the
writer’s notions of “a New Tour,” as he calls the contemplated work, and
his implied admiration of the Highlands. Sir Walter Scott had not then
imparted that charm which his genius has now thrown around so many
localities of his native land, still, as the writer informs us, it had
become, even then, “fashionable among the English to make a tour into
Scotland.”
Jan. 27, 1772.
Sir—It is now become fashionable among the English to make a
tour into Scotland for some few weeks or months; and there is a
moral certainty of the fashion increasing, as the foolish
prejudices against the country and its inhabitants daily
decrease. But it is to be regretted, that an intelligent curious
traveller from England has no proper helps to assist him; so
that it often happens, that many return without having seen one
third of what is most curious in the country, although, perhaps,
they have passed within some few hours ride, or rather some few
yards, of such articles of importance; owing to the want of
proper information, or too great hurry in making the survey.
To remedy this, it is proposed, that a new tour through Scotland
be published, in two pocket-volumes, divided into a number of
little circuits of some few days ride, which may be laid down
from the map. This work, if properly executed, will be useful to
the country in general, to the traveller in particular, and
advantageous to its author.
Nothing sets off a work of this kind more than proper plates. As
they take time to contract and engrave, these may be going on,
while a ride is performing in May from Edinburgh to Berwick, up
to Kelso, Melrose, Jedburgh, Hawick, Langholm, Moffat; back to
Edinburgh. At Moffat, that grand fall of water, the _Gray Mare’s
Tail_, and the curious loch it issues from, are worth notice.
The latter is called _Loch-Skeen_, and is of a pretty large
extent; in the midst of which is an island, where a pair of
eagles nestle every year. This loch is clear on one side, where
trouts, beautifully speckled, are to be had, and muddy on the
other, where black trouts take up their abode.
Then a ride in the end of June, or beginning of July, to
Dumfries, Drumlanrig, Kirkcudbright, Air, Saltcoats, Irvine,
Greenock, Paisley, Glasgow, Hamilton, Linlithgow; back to
Edinburgh.
In the end of August, or beginning of September, to Hopeton,
Borrowstounness, Falkirk, Carron, the Canal, Stirling, Alloa,
Dunfermline, Inverkeithing, Dunybristle, Kinghorn; back to
Edinburgh.
Next year, in May, to Kinghorn, coast-side to St Andrew’s,
Cupar, Falkland, Abernethie, Perth, Scoon, Carse of Gowrie,
Dundee, coast-side to Inverness, making little excursions from
the coast into the country, to remark what is curious, as
Forfar, Glammis, Brechin, &c.
Then let the curious traveller take a proper time to journey
into Rosshire, Sutherland, and Caithness, to John o’ Groat’s
House. If he thinks fit to stretch his tour into Orkney and
Zetland, he will find many particulars worthy of observation. In
returning, let him visit the Weem, Blair of Athol, Dunkeld,
Taymouth, Inverary, Loch-Lomond, &c.
The traveller will find his curiosity particularly gratified in
traversing the Highlands of Scotland. Icolmkill, though visited
by many, and though there are some accounts of it, with
drawings, both in manuscript and in print, ought not to be
omitted.—Roslin and Hawthornden should by no means be
overlooked.
Plates may be copied from Sletzer’s _Theatrum_ _Scotiæ_,
Gordon’s _Itinerarium Septentrionale_, and the Master of
Elphinston’s plates of Edinburgh. Keith’s Map of the Frith of
Forth, and Bryce’s Map of the north coast of Britain, from Row
Stoir of Assynt to Wick in Caithness, &c., may prove very
useful; as may Straloch’s Maps, though not easily to be had.
But there are many noble find landscapes, which I have not seen
any draught of, as from Drummond Castle, the top of the hill of
Myat, one of the _Montes Ocelli_, from Stirling-castle, from
Arthur-seat, Hopeton-house, Inveresk, &c. If the author has a
knowledge in drawing, these may be easily done.
A map of Scotland prefixed to this work, with a preliminary
discourse, giving a concise, geographical description of the
country, of its monarchy, the changes made, first, by the union
of the two crowns, usurpation of Cromwell, then by the
restoration, revolution, and union of the two kingdoms, could
not fail to be acceptable to the inquisitive and candid reader.
But the greatest care should be taken to stand clear of all
party-work, either in religion or politics, because such
peculiarities will disgust some readers, and thereby effectually
condemn the work, be its merit otherwise ever so great.
Many helps may be had to compile such an useful and entertaining
performance: such as Maitland’s History of Scotland; his History
of Edinburgh; Guthrie’s History of Scotland; Gordon’s
Itinerarium Septentrionale; Chamberlain’s Present State; The
Tour through Britain, vol. 4; Martin’s History of the Isles;
Macaulay’s ditto of St Kilda; Sacheverell’s Voyage to Icolmkill;
History of Orkney, now to be published by Coke; Sibbald’s
History of Fife; Sir John Dalrymple’s Late Memoirs; Moyes’s
Tour; Pennant’s Tour, &c.
One that has made some trips into the Highlands of Scotland,
depictures them in the following manner:
“Let others think and rove as they please; for my own part, I
look upon the Highlands of Scotland as the most delightful
country in the world during the summer-season: where one
cannot fail to be seized with a kind of religious veneration,
when viewing, with an heedful eye, the high hills and lofty
mountains, whose summits are in the clouds, and their sides
covered over with the verdant grass, the flowery heath in its
purple glow, or the tall trees, particularly the towering
firs, waving their tops in the heavens; the awful rocks
hanging over the heads of the travellers, and threatening, as
it were, to tumble down upon them; the fine natural falls of
water here and there, cascading with a mighty, noisy, and
resounding rush; the large extended lakes, enriched with
innumerable finny tribes of different kinds, and their grassy
banks forming beautifully-spangled lawns; and sometimes the
curling waves, or the roaring billows, of the majestic and far
sounding-ocean.
“What a delightful jaunt is it to move, for some miles together,
through a wood of the fragrant birch, bending down its leaves to
regale the nose of the traveller. The beauties of a
country-seat, wood and water, are here in the greatest
abundance. But if we pass from the inanimate to the animate part
of the creation, exhibited here in a luxuriant valley, the
sylvan scene is completed.
“The gentleman can beat up all kinds of game; the deer and the
roe bounding up and down; the partridge, the tarmachan, the
muir-fowl, the wood-cock, the black-cock, and the heath-hen, and
many others I cannot name, whirling through the air, or whidding
up and down upon the ground; the wild-goose, gagling, and the
wild-duck quack-quaking, in their watery regions, or in their
soaring flights.
“The feathered choir vie with one another to regale the ear of
the listening traveller, hopping from leafy spray to trembling
twig, swelling their throats, and warbling out their lays in a
wild variety of harmonious notes.
“The primitive simplicity and the open hospitality of the
natives, are past all description, though set off, either in the
flowers of the orator, or in the flash of the poet, enough to
make the citizen, the court-bred gentleman, and the delicate
lady, stand amazed, and even to furnish them with a new lesson
in life. Common decency and natural good manners are daily to be
seen amongst the vulgar in the Highlands of Scotland; and their
conduct is marked with a penetrating sagacity. Their apparent
devotion at public worship is extremely remarkable and
affecting, so as to draw tears of joy and admiration from the
eyes of a stranger!”
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