As I have said, many years passed after my leaving Seville without my
forgetting in the least that afternoon whose recollection sometimes
passed over my imagination like a reviving breeze that cools the heated
brow.
When chance brought me again to the great city which is called with so
much reason the Queen of Andalusia, one of the things that most
attracted my attention was the remarkable change effected during my
absence. Great buildings, blocks of houses and entire suburbs had risen
at the magic touch of industry and capital; on every side were
factories, public gardens, parks, shady walks, but unhappily many
venerable monuments of antiquity had disappeared.
I visited again many proud edifices full of historical and artistic
memories; again I wandered and lost my way amid the million turns of the
curious suburb of _Santa Cruz_; I surprised in the course of my strolls
many new buildings which had been erected I know not how; I missed many
old ones which had vanished I know not why; and finally I took my way to
the bank of the river. The river-bank has ever been in Seville the
chosen field for my excursions.
After I had admired the magnificent panorama which offers itself to the
view at the point where the iron bridge connects the opposite shores;
after I had noticed, with absorbed gaze, the myriad details,--palaces
and rows of small white houses; after I had passed in review the
innumerable ships at anchor in the stream, unfurling to the wind their
airy pennants of a thousand colors, and when I heard the confused hum of
the wharves, where everything breathes activity and movement, I
transported myself, following in imagination the river, against its
current, to San Jerónimo.
I remembered that tranquil landscape, reposeful, luminous, where the
rich vegetation of Andalusia displays without cultivation her natural
charms. As if I had been in a boat rowed upstream, again, with memory’s
aid, I saw file by, on one side, the _Cartuja_ [Carthusian convent] with
its groves and its lofty, slender towers; on the other, the _Barrio de
los Humeros_ [the old gypsy quarter], the ancient city walls, half Arab,
half Roman, the orchards with their fences covered with brambles, and
the water-wheels shaded by great, isolated trees, and finally, San
Jerónimo.--On reaching this point in my imagination, those memories that
I still cherished of the famous inn rose before me more vividly than
ever, and I fancied myself present once again at those peasant
merry-makings; I heard the girls singing, as they flew through the air
in the swing; and I saw the groups of village folk wandering over the
meadows, some picnicking, some quarrelling, some laughing, some dancing,
and all in motion, overflowing with youth, vivacity and glee. There was
she, surrounded by her children, now holding herself aloof from the
group of merry girls who were still laughing and singing, and there was
he, tranquil and content with his felicity, looking with tenderness at
the persons whom he loved best in the world, all together about him and
all happy,--his wife, his children, his father, who was there as ten
years ago, seated at the door of his inn, impassively twisting the paper
about his cigarette, without more change than that his head, which then
was gray, would now be white as snow.
A friend who accompanied me in the walk, noting the sort of blissful
revery in which for several moments I had been rapt with these
imaginings, shook me at last by the arm, asking:
“What are you thinking about?”
“I was thinking,” I replied, “of the Tavern of the Cats, and revolving
in my mind all the pleasant recollections I cherish of an afternoon when
I was at San Jerónimo.--This very instant I was ending a love story
which I left there well begun, and I ended it so much to my liking that
I believe there cannot be any other conclusion than that which I have
made for it. And speaking of the Tavern of the Cats,” I continued,
turning to my friend, “when shall we take a day and go there for
luncheon or to enjoy an hour of revel?”
“An hour of revel!” exclaimed my friend, with an expression of
astonishment which I did not at that time succeed in explaining to
myself, “an hour of revel! A very appropriate place it is for that!”
“And why not?” I rejoined, wondering in my turn at his surprise.
“The reason is very simple,” he told me at last, “for at one hundred
paces from the tavern they have laid out the new cemetery” [of San
Fernando].
Then it was I who gazed at him with astonished eyes and remained some
minutes silent before speaking a single word.
We returned to the city, and that day went by, and still more days,
without my being able entirely to throw off the impression which news so
unexpected had made upon me. The more variations I played upon it, still
the love story of the brunette had no conclusion, for what I had
invented before was not conceivable, since I could not make natural a
picture of happiness and mirth with a cemetery for a background.
One afternoon, determined to resolve my doubts, I pleaded a slight
indisposition as an excuse for not accompanying my friend in our
accustomed rambles, and I started out alone for the inn. When I had left
behind me the Macarena gate and its picturesque suburb and had begun to
cross by a narrow footpath that labyrinth of orchards, already I seemed
to perceive something strange in my surroundings.
Whether it was because the afternoon had become a little clouded, or
that the tendency of my mind inclined me to melancholy ideas, the fact
is that I felt cold and sad, and noticed a silence about me which
reminded me of utter solitude, as sleep reminds us of death.
I walked a little without stopping, crossed the orchards to shorten the
distance and came out into the street of San Lázaro, whence already may
be seen in the distance the convent of San Jerónimo.
Perhaps it is an illusion, but it seems to me that along the road where
pass the dead even the trees and the vegetation come to take on a
different color. I fancied there, at least, that warm and harmonious
tones were lacking,--no freshness in the groves, no atmosphere in space,
no light upon the earth. The landscape was monotonous; its figures black
and isolated.
Here was a hearse moving slowly, covered with mourning draperies,
raising no dust, cracking no whip, without shout to the horses, almost
without movement; further on a man of ill countenance with a spade on
his shoulder, or a priest in long, dark robe, or a group of old men
poorly clad and of repugnant aspect, with extinguished candles in their
hands, who were returning in silence, with lowered heads, and eyes fixed
on the ground. I believed myself transported I know not whither; for all
that I saw reminded me of a landscape whose contours were the same as
ever, but whose colors had been, as it were, blotted out, there being
left of them merely a vague half-tone. The impression that I experienced
can be compared only to that which we feel in those dreams where, by an
inexplicable phenomenon, things are and are not at one and the same
time, and the places in which we believe ourselves to be, partially
transform themselves in an eccentric and impossible fashion.
At last I reached the roadside inn; I recognized it more by the name,
which it still keeps printed in large letters on one of its walls, than
by anything else; for as to the little house itself, it seemed to me
that it had changed even its outlines and its proportions. At once I saw
that it was much more ruinous, that it was forsaken and sad. The shadow
of the cemetery, which rose just beyond it, appeared to fall over it,
enveloping it in a dark covering, like the cloth laid on the face of the
dead. The innkeeper was there, utterly alone. I recognized him as the
same of ten years back; I recognized him I know not why, for in this
time he had aged even to the point of appearing a decrepit old man on
the edge of the grave, whereas when I first saw him he seemed fifty,
abounding in health, satisfaction and vitality.
I sat down at one of the deserted tables; I asked for something to
drink, which the innkeeper brought me, and from one detached remark
after another we fell finally into continuous conversation relating to
that love story of whose last chapter I was still in ignorance, although
I had several times attempted to divine it.
“Everything,” said the poor old man to me, “everything seems to have
conspired against us since the period in which you remember me. You know
how it was with us. Amparo was the delight of our eyes; she had been
reared here from her birth; she was the joy of the house; never could
she miss her own parents, for I loved her like a father; my son had
loved her, too, from his boyhood, first as a brother, afterwards with a
devotion greater yet. They were on the eve of marriage; I was ready to
make over to them the better part of my modest property, for with the
profits of my business it seemed to me that I should have more than
enough to live at ease, when some evil spirit--I know not what--envied
our happiness and destroyed it in a moment. In the first place the
whisper went about that they were going to locate a cemetery on this
side of San Jerónimo; some said close by, others further off, and while
we were all uneasy and anxious, fearing that they might carry out this
project, a greater and more certain trouble fell upon us.
“One day two gentlemen arrived here in a carriage; they put to me
thousands of questions about Amparo whom I had taken in her babyhood
from the foundling hospital; they asked to see the swaddling-clothes
which she wore when she was abandoned and which I had kept, with the
final result that Amparo proved to be the daughter of a very rich
gentleman, who went to law to recover her from us and persisted until he
gained his end. I do not wish even to call to memory the day when they
took her away. She wept like a Magdalen, my son would have made a mad
resistance, I was like one dumfounded, not understanding what was
happening to me. She went. Rather, she did not go, for she loved us too
much to go of her own accord, but they carried her off, and a curse fell
upon the house. My son, after an attack of terrible despair, fell into a
sort of lethargy. I do not know how to express my own state of mind. I
believed that for me the world had ended.
“While these things were going on, they began to lay out the cemetery.
The village-folk fled from this neighborhood. There were no more
festivals, songs and music; all the merriment of this countryside was
over, even as the joy of our souls.
“And Amparo was no happier than we; bred here in the open air, in the
bustle and animation of the inn, brought up to be joyous in poverty,
they plucked her from this life, and she withered, as wither the flowers
gathered in a garden to adorn a drawing-room. My son made incredible
efforts to see her again, to have a moment’s speech with her. All was
in vain; her family did not wish it. At last he saw her, but he saw her
dead. The funeral train passed by here. I knew nothing about it and I
cannot tell why I fell to weeping when I saw her hearse. The heart,
loyal to love, clamored to me:
“‘She is young like Amparo; she, too, must be beautiful; who knows if it
may not be herself?’ And it was. My son followed the train, entered the
enclosure and, when the coffin was opened, uttered a cry and fell
senseless to the ground; and so they brought him back to me. Afterwards
he went mad, and is now a lunatic.”
When the poor old man had reached this point in his narrative, there
entered the inn two gravediggers of sinister bearing and repellent look.
Having finished their task, they had come to take a drink “_to the
health of the dead_,” as one of them said, accompanying the jest with a
silly leer. The innkeeper brushed off a tear with the back of his hand
and went to serve them.
Night was beginning to fall, a dark night and most gloomy. The sky was
black and so was the landscape. From the boughs of the trees still hung,
half rotted, the ropes of the swing swaying in the wind; it reminded me
of a gallows-rope quivering yet after the body of the felon had been
taken down. Only confused noises reached my ears,--the distant barking
of dogs on guard in the orchards; the creaking of a water-wheel,
prolonged, melancholy and shrill like a lament; disconnected, horrible
words of the gravediggers who were plotting in low tones a sacrilegious
robbery--I know not what; my memory has kept of this fantastic scene of
desolation as of that other scene of merriment only a confused
recollection that I cannot reproduce. What I still seem to hear as I
heard it then is this refrain intoned in a plaintive voice, suddenly
disturbing the silence that reigned about:
“The coach of the dead was grand
As it passed our humble door,
But from it beckoned a pallid hand,
And I saw my love once more.”
It was the poor boy, who was locked up in one of the rooms of the inn,
where he passed his days in motionless contemplation of the picture of
his beloved, without speaking a word, scarcely eating, never weeping,
hardly opening his lips save to sing this simple, tender verse enclosing
a poem of sorrow that I then learned to decipher.