under jaw, then carry the cord on the off-side of the head over back of
the ears, and bring it down through the loop on the nigh-side, you have
now the Bonaparte bridle, afterwards pass the cord through your right
hand, then with your left take hold of the cord and place it over the top
of the head, and bring the cord down with your left hand under the upper
lip.
The great advantage of this bridle is the complete control of the horse
which it gives to the one using it. After the animal has learned its
power all thought of resisting leaves him and he submits to the will
of his owner. Harsh as it may seem to one who does not understand the
principle on which it is used, I do not hesitate to say that it is the
most merciful device which could be originated, a hundred times more
so than the brutal method of whipping a horse to make him obey. In all
the horses I have handled I have never twice drawn blood, and the only
occasion when I did so was by the drawing of a cord too rapidly as a man
might have a rope drawn through his hand. Yet by the use of this bridle
I have controlled and educated the most vicious animals that could be
found, with the greatest ease to me and with the least possible suffering
to themselves. Whipping makes no durable impression on the brain, as this
does; it requires hours where this method takes but minutes; it is often
unsuccessful, which this never is.
I will only add that a horse never should be coaxed, he is first to be
subdued by fear and ever after is controlled only as he has a sense of
the superiority of the one who uses him.
_THE ONLY SAFE METHOD OF CONTROLLING A HORSE BAD TO SHOE._
[Illustration: ONLY SAFE METHOD OF CONTROLLING A HORSE BAD TO SHOE.]
I appended to a former plate instructions whereby a horse may be educated
not to kick while shoeing; but if owners of horses will not take the
pains to educate, it is scarcely reasonable that the blacksmith should be
subject to severe torture in shoeing a vicious horse; therefore I have
provided the foregoing plate as descriptive of the mode of perfectly
controlling the horse’s hind-foot, so that the farrier need have no fears
for his safety. Take a single rein or cord, make a slip-noose and put it
on the horse’s hind-leg between the fetlock-joint and hoof; then bring
the rein or cord forward to the breast and pass it around over the neck
at the shoulder; now bring it down and put it under the rein or cord,
forming a half-hitch, and bring up the leg so as to make it convenient
for the smith to pare the hoof or nail the shoe; then take a pole-strap
or one of similar width, and place it under the other strap or cord,
forming a loop by means of the crupper or loop near the buckle with the
buckle outside, now pass the end of the strap up on the inside and front
of the leg and around the gambol-joint, bring it down and buckle it; when
you want to clinch the nails let out the strap two or three holes and
draw up tightly on the rein or cord that is in front of the breast and
around the neck. By this means you can accomplish the desired end, as you
have the foot and leg under your control.
Should the horse attempt to recline over on the blacksmith, put on the
Bonaparte bridle with double half-hitch, and pull quickly two or three
times, and he will gladly stand erect while being shod.
_TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO BE AFRAID OF THE CARS._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO BE AFRAID OF THE CARS.]
Much difficulty, and loss of property, has resulted from not being
able to control horses that become frightened at the approach of the
locomotive or cars, and, in order to avoid the annoyance and prevent
accidents, I have with great care prepared the foregoing plate, and will
now give an accurate description of the mode of educating the animal, and
the appliance required, I will first describe the bridle, seen at the
right of the horse. Make the Bonaparte bridle as previously directed,
then place it on the horse, stand at the nigh-side holding the cord in
your right hand, now pass your left hand over the right and take hold of
the cord, then by bringing the hand back and stepping in front of the
horse, you have formed a half-hitch, then place it over the head and
bring it down under the upper lip and above the upper jaw, thus you have
a powerful bridle that will control any horse. Use this with great care
and judgment, because you are now in a position to handle the wildest
horse found in the country. Don’t forget to caress the horse the moment
he obeys.
_SWEENY LINIMENT._
Alcohol, and spirits of turpentine, of each 8 oz.; camphor gum,
pulverized cantharides and tincture of capsicum, of each 1 oz.; oil of
spike 3 oz. Bathe this liniment in with a hot iron, and faithfully follow
till a cure is effected.
_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO BACK AT THE WORD OF COMMAND._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO BACK AT THE WORD OF COMMAND.]
This point in the education of a horse is one of great importance, for
no animal can be considered thoroughly educated till he will obey the
command of his driver without the necessity of using the rein or the
whip. Many persons in order to stop their horse will draw with all their
strength upon the rein, and to back him requires the exertion of a force
enough almost to bring the horse on his haunches, when in either case a
well-educated horse will stop or back at the driver’s voice without the
need for even drawing upon the rein.
To educate the horse to back at the word of command, let the reader take
his stand behind the horse and with the rein in his hand, previously
arranged as shown in the engraving, commence the lesson. He may, if he
pleases, start the horse forward for a few paces, then stop him, and then
with a sudden, short and pretty powerful backward jerk, utter the word
“back!” Great care must be taken to speak the word and give the backward
jerk on the rein at the same instant, for the two must come together so
as to be associated in the mind of the horse. When he obeys caress him,
and continue repeating the lesson, and in a short time you will find that
your horse will back at the word without your needing to even touch the
reins. But in educating him to this there must not be the least interval
between the word and the short, sharp jerk, for if only a few seconds
pass he will not associate the two in his mind.
This method will be invariably successful, and is so far superior to the
protracted and unsatisfactory means formerly employed, that it should be
everywhere adopted.
_TO EDUCATE HORSES OR CATTLE NOT TO JUMP THE FENCE._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE HORSES OR CATTLE NOT TO JUMP FENCES.]
Buckle a surcingle around the horse’s body, then buckle a hame-strap,
making two turns with strap between the knee and fetlock on each
fore-leg; next buckle two hame-straps on each hind-leg, above and
below the gambol-joint, placing a ring, say one and one-half inches in
diameter, as seen in plate. Now place a strap or cord from the ring
on off hind-leg up through the surcingle, then attach it to the nigh
fore-leg; then another strap or cord from the nigh hind-leg to the off
fore-leg. Now when the horse, or other animal, starts to jump over a
fence the appliance will arrest his progress, for, as he throws his
fore-legs forward, at the same time it acts upon his hind legs, taking
them out from under him, and you will find him sitting up in the field
where you turned him out. After three or four lessons your horse will be
thoroughly educated not to jump a fence.
_FOR INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS._
First, bleed thoroughly; then give tinc. veratrum, ½ oz.; laudanum, 4
oz.; tincture aconite, ¼ oz.; shake well, and give a teaspoonful every
three hours, in a pint of water, well sweetened, and, if the pulse is not
reduced in a short time, increase the dose to a tablespoonful, until the
fever abates. As soon as the horse recovers so as to eat and lie down
naturally, keep him on hay, with a few carrots or potatoes, and daily
give a bran-mash, with saltpetre, pulverized antimony and sulphur, for a
week or ten days, and you will prevent dropsy of the chest, which usually
follows this disease.
_A REMEDY TO CURE THE HEAVES._
One-half pint of turpentine, 2 oz. assafœtida, 2 oz. aloes, 4 oz. lobelia
seed, 1 quart of whisky, 2 oz. of sal ammoniac, 4 oz. saleratus, 1 oz. of
camphor.
Dose, one tablespoonful once a day.
_TO EDUCATE A COW NOT TO KICK WHILE BEING MILKED._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A COW NOT TO KICK WHILE BEING MILKED.]
Hitch the cow to a post, then make the Bonaparte bridle as follows: Make
a loop and put it on the lower jaw, carrying the end of the cord on the
off-side of the head and around over behind the horns, bringing it down
to the mouth on the nigh-side, through the loop. Now carry the cord
around the nigh hind-leg, to the off hind-leg and tie it just above the
gambol-joint. Then sit down to milk; now the moment the cow kicks, an
impression is made on her brain, and she soon learns that by kicking she
punishes herself, and rather than suffer the pain inflicted she yields
to the influence and says by her actions, “I will not kick again.” The
principle here is the obvious one that _no_ animal will persist in doing
that which causes suffering to itself, and the moment that it comes to
associate the idea of suffering with any action, it will make that action
distasteful.
_COLIC OR GRIPES._
_Symptoms._—Pawing, manifesting a desire to lie down, and, without doing
so, commence pawing again. As the symptoms increase, the animal cannot be
kept on his feet; he frequently falls as if shot; pulse not altered from
natural condition. Intervals of rest, together with the condition of the
pulse, distinguish the disease from inflammation of the bowels.
Treat as follows:
Frequent injections of soap and water, and give internally spirits of
nitre, 1 oz.; laudanum, 1 oz.; water, ½ pint; mix for drench. This may be
repeated in twenty minutes, if relief is not obtained.
Another remedy, giving _instant_ relief:
From 5 to 10 drops of chloroform, given on sugar, I have never known to
fail giving immediate relief. I have known men to be from home, and have
their horses taken with this disease, and use this remedy, and in thirty
minutes the horses were able to be driven.
_TO EDUCATE A COW TO LET HER MILK DOWN WHILE MILKING._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A COW TO LET HER MILK DOWN.]
Much inconvenience, besides an actual loss of money, is experienced by
persons who own cows that are in the habit of withholding their milk.
Having spent fifteen years of my life in gathering knowledge of value
to the farmer, and to other owners of animals, I am unwilling that even
one valuable idea should be lost to the reader, and therefore I have, at
considerable expense, illustrated the above-named point, believing that
it will be of benefit to many persons. Although the method to be employed
is very simple, it will be found practical in its operation, while
success will be certain where the directions are followed:
Take a common bag, put into it a bushel or a bushel and a half of grain,
or its equivalent in weight of sand, then place the bag across the back
of the animal, as indicated in the engraving and the result will be
shown in the milking. As an indication of the purpose of the cow to hold
up her milk you will always see her hump up her back, then, by applying
the remedy named, the habit will be speedily removed.
_PRACTICAL RESULT OF EDUCATING THE COW TO GIVE DOWN MILK._
[Illustration: PRACTICAL RESULT OF EDUCATING THE COW TO GIVE DOWN MILK.]
Having directed the attention of the reader to the education of the cow
so as not to disappoint her owner in receiving the quota of milk he may
rightly expect, it is but natural that the eye should be gratified by
witnessing the result. For this purpose I have prepared this engraving,
in which is represented the bag and its contents upon the back of the
animal, in just the spot where it should be placed. The reader will
also perceive the impatient wife standing with milking pail and stool
in hand, waiting for the result, which becomes apparent in the freely
flowing milk, and one can almost imagine that he hears her saying to her
husband that it is scarcely necessary now to milk the cow, for the simple
method adopted has caused a spontaneous flow of milk, and nothing now is
needed but to set the pail under her and view with wonder and delight the
pleasing effect produced!
_A CURE FOR HEAVES, NEVER BEFORE PUBLISHED._
Take a common stone jar, fill it with eggs, cover them with cider
vinegar, and let it stand till the vinegar eats up the shells. Then stir
all together. Take a lump of lime about the size of a goose-egg, slack it
in hot water, using about one quart of water. Add one-half pint of the
lime-water to a quart of the egg mixture. Give a teacupful, at feeding
time, in feed, three times a day.
_TO CURE WORMS IN HORSES._
One dram white hellebore in powder, 1 dram sulphate of iron in powder, 1
oz. flaxseed meal.
The above for one dose, mixed with bran-mash, given at night. Repeat in
forty-eight hours, if the horse is old. Two doses are enough for the
worst case.
_TO EDUCATE CATTLE TO LEAD BEHIND A WAGON._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE CATTLE TO LEAD BEHIND A WAGON.]
Make a rope halter and put it on the head of the animal you desire to
lead; then take a small rope, about twenty feet long, double it in the
center, placing it under the tail; cross it on the back, bringing the
ends down each side of the animals neck and then through the nose-piece
of the halter under the lower jaw, and tie the ends firmly to the end of
your wagon.
If you wish to lead more than one, take another rope, twice the length of
the former one, double it in the center, placing it under the tail, cross
it on the back, bringing the ends down each side of the animal’s neck and
then through under the lower jaw. Now bring the ends, one on each side of
the forward cow, and carry the rope through the halter under the jaw and
tie it to the wagon.
By adopting this plan no difficulty will be experienced in educating your
animals to lead, and when you drive home with your cattle following thus
they will be sure to arrive there at the same time as yourself.
_TO EDUCATE A TENDER-MOUTHED HORSE TO PULL ON THE BIT._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A TENDER-MOUTHED HORSE TO PULL ON THE BIT.]
Many horses are very sensitive to a hurt in any part of the body, so much
so that they often grow frantic when severely punished, and it seems
to be the delight of some persons to inflict injury to a horse of this
temperament, sometimes with a view to make him rear or prance about,
believing it adds to the appearance of the animal, when the contrary
is the fact; a bad habit is almost sure to grow out of such treatment,
and then it may take some time to eradicate it. One of the evils often
presented is that the animal becomes tender-mouthed, and I have known
many cases where balking has been the result. Let me urge the reader
never to jerk sharply on the bit, except when educating or correcting a
habit, as heretofore directed.
The only effectual method of treatment for a tender mouth is to use a
large straight bit, leave the check-rein quite loose, and drop the bit
low down in the mouth, as seen in engraving, which will slip up and down
and harden the mouth in a short time.
_TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO BE AFRAID OF A BUFFALO ROBE._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO BE AFRAID OF A BUFFALO ROBE.]
The education of the horse being quite a new idea to many persons, it
therefore becomes necessary that, in my characteristic explanations,
I should make my ideas both plain and simple—so that even the most
unlettered may not become fogged while attempting to apply any
illustrated idea in my work.
A Buffalo robe is an article in common use, and one at which very many
horses become frightened, proving a decided source of annoyance. Let not
the reader imagine that one lesson, as below indicated, is sufficient
to warrant success and thoroughly eradicate the habit. Much depends
upon the temperament of the animal; but, in most cases, three lessons
carefully imparted will accomplish the purpose. After you have given two
or three lessons do not tempt your horse by suddenly approaching him with
the robe, and when you do approach him, be sure you have the Bonaparte
bridle on him, that you may be able at once to control when the slightest
resistance is seen.
_Directions._—If your animal is very nervous lay him down, as directed
in other places, fold the robe, hair side in, making it as small as
possible; let him smell of it, rub it gently over his nose, head and
body; punish if he resists—if not caress. When submission is apparent
allow him to rise to his feet; then, with your Bonaparte bridle, properly
adjusted, present the robe to him again. Bearing in mind the grand idea,
punish for disobedience and caress when he obeys. Carefully avoid all
unnecessary excitement while educating any animal, as it only tends to
benumb their senses and make them less susceptible of being taught.
INTELLIGENCE OF ANIMALS.
In discussing the intelligence of animals I am aware that many persons,
at the outset, would question the propriety of the term. Man has so long
arrogated the exclusive possession of mind, or at least of a mind capable
of rational reflection, that he is reluctant to concede the fact of its
possession by the lower orders of animate life. Those acts which, in the
brute creation, seem to proceed from the action of powers analagous to
human intelligence, it has been usual to ascribe to an irrational faculty
called instinct; a power invariable and despotic in its action, but in no
degree the result of reflection; some metaphysicians even going so far as
to assert that the action of animals is purely automatic, the difference
in this respect between them and the automaton moved by wires and springs
being that the former possesses a consciousness of their acts, while the
latter does not. Facts in myriads, exist which challenge the correctness
of such a theory, while in almost equal number they assert the existence,
at least in its embryonic state, of a mind capable of thought, and, to a
limited degree, of reflection and comparison, with the ability to deduce
conclusions from the facts which it considers.
This intelligence varies greatly in the different animal races, in some
species being barely perceptible, while in others it is too conspicuous
to be ignored; and between individuals of the same species there exists
a difference so marked that, in the more favored ones which come under
our observation, the intelligence is so clear as to almost startle us by
the feeling that behind the full, liquid eye of the horse, or prompting
the fixed gaze bent on us by our trusty canine companion, there may be
a mind kindred to our own and which lacks only the power of articulate
expression to respond to our thoughts by answering sentiments. It is the
absence of the power of speech in animals which leaves us in doubt as to
the exact degree of intelligence possessed by them. If, when the farmer
says, “Carlo! the cows are in the corn—turn them out!” the dog should
turn his head and reply, “Yes, sir, I’ll have them out in a moment!”
there could be no doubt of the intelligent interchange of thought. But
the fact of his _doing_ that which in the supposed case he would express,
proves as conclusively his comprehension of the command and his purpose
to obey. The horse or dog, however fully he may understand the directions
he receives, can give no other response than by his acts, and to words
of praise or censure he can reply only by signs; these are clearly
understood by us and show that our meaning is comprehended by the animal,
thus proving a real interchange of thought. A popular author has said: “A
dog may bark, a horse may neigh, but it is not by these sounds that they
express the delicate shades of ever-varying emotion; it is by a thousand
varieties of gesture which few indeed of us can analyze but which all
clearly understand. A dog converses with his master by means of his eyes
and his ears and his tail, nay rather by every muscle of his body.”
To test the existence and extent of intelligence we must determine the
capacity for comprehending thought. We recognize this capacity in a
child long before it can express itself in language. Its dawn is seen as
the infant learns to associate certain articulate sounds with certain
persons, acts, or things, and to distinguish the meaning of tones which
encourage, restrain or chide it. It is only after a twelve-month or more
of constant tuition, lovingly and intelligently given, that our children
begin to express in language the thoughts which are awakened by our
words and acts, yet the comprehension is as evident and the response as
apparent, the whole mental process being as perfect, long before. The
same test which proves the intelligence of the child demonstrates its
existence in animals there is a similar power of comprehending the wishes
expressed, by associating certain articulate sounds with certain acts
required, as well as an equal recognition of the tones of voice by which
approval, reproof or anger are made known; but, lacking the organs of
speech, they are debarred, and forever must be, from any except the most
limited _interchange_ of thought. For this reason, attentive study is
needed in ascertaining the extent to which they comprehend and respond to
the intelligence which addresses them.
In the case of wild or undomesticated animals there is little opportunity
for investigating this interesting subject. We see the beaver build his
dam, and we understand the object so admirably attained by his work. We
know that the elephant, to be taken in the pitfall, must see on the earth
that covers it the foot-prints of one of his fellows, and we surmise the
process of reasoning by which he concludes that he is safe in venturing
where another of his kind has trodden. We learn that the ostrich which
in torrid regions trusts to the heat of the sand for the incubation of
her eggs, will in a more temperate latitude supply the heat which would
else be lacking by setting on her eggs during the cooler nights; but
in none of these, nor in a score of other cases, in which there seems
a rational foresight, can we determine how far the acts result from
intelligent reflection. In domesticated animals, and especially in such
as are trained for the service of man, the action of intelligence may be
clearly traced; it is demonstrated by the ease and certainty with which
they can be educated; it is seen in the readiness with which many receive
and act upon ideas communicated to them; and in a multitude of instances
the mental process is evident by which they have, independently,
reached conclusions rationally deduced from facts of their previous
knowledge. Mr. J. Hope relates a circumstance of a terrier who had been
temporarily left by his master in the care of a Mrs. Langford at St.
Albans. This lady owned a large house-dog which, disliking the presence
of the stranger, quarreled with him, biting and severely wounding him,
after which the terrier disappeared; but in a few days he returned
again, accompanied by a powerful mastiff, when both together fell upon
the original assailant, whom they nearly killed. The mastiff was the
watch-dog at his master’s house, more than a day’s journey distant, and
had been brought by the terrier for the sole purpose of avenging the
injury he had received, after which they left in company and proceeded
together to their home. Here was displayed a power of combining ideas and
of communicating them to one of his own kind, when the two acted on the
plan they had preconcerted.
In a work just issued, an anecdote is related of a dog who had lost his
master and afterwards became old and blind, passing his time sadly in
the same corner, which he rarely quitted. “One day came a step like that
of his lost master, and he suddenly left his place. The man who had just
entered wore ribbed stockings as his master had done. The old dog had
lost his scent and referred at once to the stockings that he remembered,
rubbing his face against them. Believing that his master had returned, he
gave way to the most extravagant delight. The man spoke; the momentary
illusion was dispelled, the dog went sadly back to his place, lay wearily
down, and died.” Here was a double process of reasoning and even a
balancing of testimony with a decision that the negative evidence of
the strange voice outweighed the affirmative proof in the step and the
stockings.
Much evidence favors the belief that animals not only become familiar
with the words habitually addressed to them, but that they, to a certain
extent, understand our language. A dog, belonging to a friend of the
writer, would slink from the room with every indication of shame if
a fault of which he had been guilty was spoken of in his presence.
The author of “Chapters on Animals” describes a dog in his possession
which clearly distinguishes between those visitors at the house who are
favorites with his master and those whom he dislikes, and adds: “I know
not how he discovers these differences in my feelings, except it be by
overhearing remarks when the guests are gone.”
The elephant, though one of the clumsiest of animals, exhibits marks of
high intelligence, and evidently understands the language in which he is
addressed. He can be stimulated to unusual exertions by the promise of
a reward. “I have seen,” says a French writer, “two occupied in beating
down a wall which their keepers had desired them to do and encouraged
them by a promise of fruits and brandy.” They were left alone and
continued at the work, stimulated by the promised reward, until it was
accomplished. “When a reward is promised to an elephant,” says the same
author, “it is dangerous to disappoint him, as he never fails to revenge
the insult.” Nothing of this could occur without an understanding of the
language.
In India they were formerly employed to launch vessels, and it is related
that one being directed to force a large ship into the water, the task
proved beyond his strength; whereupon his master, in a sarcastic tone,
ordered the keeper to take away this lazy beast and bring another; the
poor animal, as if stung by emulation, instantly repeated his efforts,
fractured his skull and died on the spot.
It may be said that the tones of the voice rather than the words are what
the animal understands, yet a dog knows his name however spoken, and a
horse understands a whole vocabulary of orders. But the intelligence
which comprehends the meaning of a tone, is not less than that required
to understand a word or sentence. Mr. Hamerton, the artist, widely known
as a lover of animals, mentions a favorite dog which met an untimely
death by drowning, and in his lament over his lost pet, says: “He was a
dog of rare gifts, exceptionally intelligent, who would obey a look where
another needed an order. He would sit studying his master’s face and had
become from careful observation so acute a physiognomist that he read
whatever thoughts of mine had any concern for him.”
The shrewd intelligence of our countrymen is nowhere more clearly seen
than in the keen bargains the New Englander is famous for driving. But
our domestic animals make bargains with us and sometimes resolutely
keep us to them. On this point a pleasant writer relates an anecdote
of a favorite mare who was so difficult to catch in the pasture as to
often require six men to effect it; “but,” says he, “I carried corn to
her for a long time, without trying to take her, leaving the corn on
the ground. Next, I induced her to eat the corn while I held it, still
leaving her free. Finally I persuaded her to follow me, and now she will
come trotting half a mile at my whistle, leaping ditches, fording brooks,
in the darkness and rain, or in impenetrable fog. She follows me like a
dog to the stable and I administer the corn there. But it is a bargain;
she knowingly sells her liberty for the corn. The experiment of reducing
the reward to test her behavior having been tried, she ceased to obey
the whistle and resumed her former habits; but the full and due quantity
having been restored, she yielded her liberty again without resistance,
and since then she is not to be cheated.”
A horse which is regularly used for attending church, will, from its own
observation, learn to recognize the Sabbath and understand the meaning of
the church bells. Two interesting illustrations of this fact I give on
the authority of a recent number of the Hartford _Post_:
A pair of horses that had been used during the week in
team-work to Springfield, on Sunday were harnessed and driven
to the door unhitched, and, the family being rather tardy that
morning, as soon as the second bell began to ring the horses
started off alone, and with their usual Sunday motion went up
in front of the church, when, after waiting the usual time,
they quietly went around under the horse-shed.
Here the horses plainly understood the distinction between that day and
the six previous ones when they had been driven to Springfield, else they
would have gone, after starting, to where they had been going through the
week; they also evidently understood that at the ringing of the second
bell it was time to start for church. The gentleman who communicated the
foregoing adds an instance which occurred in his own family:
The father of the writer, owing to increasing infirmities,
rode alone to meeting, half a mile, driving an old gray mare
twenty years old, and had not failed of going every Sabbath
for some years. On one occasion, owing to a fall, he could not
go to meeting, and on Sunday morning, as the time for meeting
approached, the horse, in a lot near the house, manifested
great uneasiness, and when the second bell struck she leaped
over the fence and trotted quietly to church, stopping at her
usual hitching-place, under an old elm tree, until the close of
the service, when the faithful animal returned safely to the
house.
When we remember that such exhibitions of intelligence occur continually
where the animals have received no training on the subjects to which they
relate, it seems certain that they are the result of a mental process
which strongly resembles thought, and we would expect, from patient
culture, displays of intelligence greatly in advance of those ordinarily
taking place. Such an expectation is justified by the results which
have followed training when directed to this end. In a paper entitled
“Canine Guests,” Philip Gilbert Hamerton gives an account of the trained
dogs of M. du Rouil which, but for the unimpeachable veracity of the
writer, would be almost incredible. M. du Rouil began to educate his
first dog out of curiosity to see the effect of the sort of education
which seemed to him best adapted for establishing a close understanding
between the human and canine minds; the results astonished himself and
were so gratifying that he subsequently educated two others on the same
principles. Two of these dogs, “Blanche” and “Lyda,” with their master,
were guests of Mr. Hamerton, and the intelligence they exhibited, and
which he describes, is, by his own admission, “incredible,” yet may be
so only because of our ignorance of the nature and extent of the mental
powers belonging to the animal creation. Among the many feats performed
by them were the spelling of words by lettered cards; the correction
of words purposely misspelled; the working out of simple problems in
arithmetic and the playing of cards and dominoes. Of the latter, Mr.
Hamerton says: “Both the dogs played a game at dominoes. This was managed
as follows: the dogs sat on chairs opposite each other, and took up the
domino that was wanted; but the master placed it in its position and
kept announcing the state of the game. Their distress when they could
not go on without drawing from the bank was announced in piteous whines,
and amused us all exceedingly. Lyda was the loser, and precipitately
retreated to hide herself with an evident consciousness of defeat.”
An incident occurred in the course of the evening which showed some
understanding of language. A little girl wanted Blanche to come to her,
but the dog kept away, on which M. du Rouil said, “Blanche, go salute
the little girl!” She immediately went up to the child and made a formal
obeisance.
The owner of Blanche stated that he was going home one night accompanied
by the dog and on his way saw a man who was searching for some object
that he had lost. “What are you seeking?” he asked. The man answered
that he had lost 280 francs. “Possibly my dog may be able to find them
for you; have you any money left? If you have, show her a piece of gold.”
It was done and the dog directed to search. She at once set out and soon
returned, bringing first one piece of gold, then another, and then a
bank-note, till the whole sum that had been lost was regained.
M. du Rouil said that Blanche really knew all the letters and the
playing-cards by their names, and Lyda really knew all the figures. In
addition to this Blanche had studied about one hundred and fifty words in
different languages, something like twenty in each language. So it was
with Lyda and the figures. She knew each one by its name, and would bring
the one called for. In describing the earlier stages of training through
which these dogs had passed, their owner said the first thing was to make
the dog fetch an object, the next to make him discriminate between one of
two very different objects placed together, and bring one or the other
as it was mentioned by its name. In beginning the alphabet he put two
most dissimilar letters side by side to begin with, such as an O and an
I, avoiding the confusion of similar ones, such as O and Q or B and R.
Gradually the dog became observant enough to discriminate between letters
in which the difference was not so marked. M. du Rouil said he had found
the greatest difficulty in teaching Blanche to distinguish between the
knaves and kings in playing-cards, but that she learned the aces very
promptly. When he was asked what, after his ten years’ experience,
was his opinion of the intelligence of dogs, he answered, with great
emphasis, “that it is infinite.”
In subsequent pages I shall set forth my method of educating both dogs
and horses to perform a variety of feats, which will be described, and
from the ideas thus imparted the reader may multiply the number of tricks
to any desired amount.
_FERREN’S PATENTED STEEL HORSESHOE._
[Illustration: HOOF EXPANDING HORSE SHOE FOR CONTRACTED FEET & CORNS
Ground surface of shoe.
The hoof prepared for the shoe.]
One of the most valuable patents for Horseshoes was granted to H. B.
Ferren, of Batavia, N. Y., for a Steel Horseshoe, which promises to come
into general use, and will, to a very large extent, supersede an Iron
Shoe, whether made by a machine or by hand, _because its form is the
best, the material is durable_, and the manner of making is such as to
secure economy, and its adoption will prevent many of the prevalent cruel
malpractices upon a horse’s foot.
TRICK HORSES.
Many horses are susceptible of an education far more extensive than
is necessary for ordinary use, and for the benefit of such persons
as may desire to teach their horses something more than the usual
accomplishments, whether for their own amusement, or for the purpose of
seeing how far the intelligence of the animal can be developed, I have
prepared a description of a variety of tricks, which, as performed by my
horses, have been received with universal applause, both in Canada and
in the United States; to simplify which, I have, at considerable cost,
procured plates, illustrating each of the tricks. But that no person may
be misled into supposing that this forms a part of my general system
of educating the horse, I deem it proper to present these directions
separately.
Though the tricks to be hereafter illustrated and explained will add
nothing of intrinsic value to the horse, nor of real benefit to his
owner, yet the reader will readily see in them the demonstration of a
highly important fact, viz., that horses can be taught the meaning of
words, and to yield obedience to sounds to such an extent as to convince
a candid mind that their intelligence is far in advance of that generally
attributed to them. With these remarks I will proceed to explain the
_modus operandi_, as I call attention to a variety of tricks they may
easily be taught to perform. Before passing to this, let me impress on
the reader some leading principles in educating the horse. First, never
allow yourself to get in a hurry; impatience or excitement on your part
will go far in defeating the object of your instructions. Second, do not
prolong your lessons beyond twenty minutes at one time; and, especially,
never use severity beyond that which may be absolutely necessary. Thus by
kindness and patience in repeating your lessons at short intervals, you
will surmount every difficulty and accomplish your purpose in a manner
satisfactory to yourself.
_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO MOUNT A PEDESTAL._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO MOUNT A PEDESTAL.]
First make the Bonaparte bridle, and place it on your horse, then lead
him quietly up to the pedestal, and say to him, “Get up with your
fore-feet!” of course he will not obey; now you must teach him your
meaning. While you hold the bridle let some one take hold of his front
foot, raise it carefully and place it on the pedestal; then caress him,
after which say, “Get down!” at the same time using your bridle in gently
backing him. When he puts his foot down do not omit to caress him. Repeat
this until he will obey when spoken to, then go through the same process
with the other foot. After this, place both feet on the pedestal; then
require him to get down, then up and down till he will obey you without
the use of the bridle. Great care should be taken not to excite the horse
while educating him, for when excited his brain becomes muddled, and he
is unfitted for retaining your instruction.
To make your horse stand on three legs: take a pin, and place it in the
end of your whipstock, and with the point prick him slightly on the leg,
in front, just below the fetlock joint, but not hard enough to make him
kick; repeat this several times accompanied by the words, “hold up your
foot!” continuing to repeat the punishment and words until he will obey
the command without punishment.
_HOW TO MAKE A HORSE WALTZ._
Tie his head to his side by means of a surcingle and cord, fastening the
cord at the side, reaching from the mouth; touch him lightly with the
whip. He has to go, and, of course, he must go around and around. He soon
learns perfectly to waltz by the motion of the whip, the teacher still
repeating the word “waltz.”
_TO EDUCATE THE HORSE TO WALK ON HIS HIND FEET._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO WALK ON HIS HIND FEET.]
Make the Bonaparte bridle, and put it on your horse; also put on a
bitting rig, similar to the one shown in the engraving, drawing his head
pretty well up and in. Now stand near his head with bridle in hand, and
jerk upward, as though you desired to lift him up, at the same time
repeating the words, “stand up on your hind feet!” repeat this several
times, and if he does not make a move to please you, take hold of one
leg, raising him up with one hand and using the bridle with the other, as
before directed, not forgetting to caress him if he makes the slightest
move in the direction of obedience. In order to ensure success, kindness
and patience should be the ruling principles. After you have taught
your horse to stand on his hind feet you will next educate him to walk
upright. This can be easily done by observing the following directions.
Stand in front of him, whip in hand, saying, “Get up!” then shake the
whip in front of him, stepping backwards slowly, at the same time say to
him, “Come here!” repeating it sharply and touching him gently with the
whip on the knees. By carefully observing the above directions, you will
quickly teach your horse to stand upright, and to walk on his hind feet.
_HOW TO MAKE A HORSE SAY “NO.”_
Prick him on the neck at the terminus of the mane till he shakes his
head, then remove the pin, caress him, repeat for a while, and your
horse will soon shake his head when you raise your hand to your heart;
be always sure to treat the animal kindly for well-doing, and caress
him when he deserves it, and he will repay you by his love for you and
willingness to do your bidding.
_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO PUSH A VEHICLE._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO PUSH A VEHICLE.]
After your horse has been taught to mount a pedestal with his fore-feet,
and to stand and walk upright on his hind-feet it is a comparatively easy
task to educate him to mount upon a vehicle and push it. It is not at all
necessary that a horse should be attached to it in front, as appears in
the illustration, where the engraver has placed a representation of my
black horse, Prince Albert, as a matter of taste, not as being necessary
in conducting the instruction.
In this trick it will be scarcely necessary for the educator to put the
Bonaparte bridle on his horse unless he should show some stubbornness,
but, with bitting rig on, stand near his head, whip in hand, and say to
him in rather a loud and sharp tone of voice, “Get up!” Some fear on his
part may be manifested, still do not give up nor lose your patience, but
lift his feet up and caress him. When he does get up do not at first
allow the vehicle to move, nor until he has mounted two or three times,
then say to him, “Push!” and in a short time you will have taught him not
only to get up on the vehicle but to push it in front of him. After your
horse has been thoroughly taught, you will discover that he is delighted
to amuse you, and he will appear pleased to participate in the enjoyment
of the trick.
_HOW TO MAKE A HORSE GO LAME._
Tap him on the fore-leg till he holds it up, then caress him kindly; lead
him with the left hand to the bit, and tap the left fore-leg with a stick
in your right hand; repeat the word “lame, lame, lame,” and your horse
will soon learn to hold up one leg at the command.
_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO BE VICIOUS._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO BE VICIOUS.]
Many persons are incredulous in regard to the assertion that horses can
be educated; had one lived a hundred years ago he might have been excused
for such incredulity, but in this age of knowledge and advancement in all
departments of human life, no man should close his eyes to any of the
developments wrought by man’s ingenuity. That the horse possesses more
intelligence than many are disposed to admit, facts abundantly prove, and
that he is quite as susceptible of acquiring evil and vicious habits as
is man, the following trick will show.
My horse, Prince Albert, appears to enjoy the subjoined trick greatly,
and I regard it as quite a sensational one. To educate a horse to be
vicious you have only to attract his attention, and then appear to be
afraid of him. For instance, strike him lightly with a whip on the
knees, then run away from him, and after you have repeated this a few
times he will run after you. You may make the trick more interesting by
calling him names, such as “a nigger,” “a mean horse,” and on speaking
the words run from him. But be careful to have some place of safety, so
that, when he follows, you may get out of his reach, as at some time he
may disappoint and overtake you and mete out a punishment that will be
anything but pleasing or desirable.
_HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO LAUGH._
Prick him with a pin on the nose till he turns his lip up; then caress
him well. He will soon learn that when you point towards him and say,
“Laugh,” that it means a prick in the nose, if he does not turn his lip
up.
_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO WALK ON HIS KNEES._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO WALK ON HIS KNEES.]
The reader will observe, by reading my book, that great use is made of
the Bonaparte bridle, and if those who handle horses will always resort
to it when obedience from the horse is desired, they will save much time,
trouble and annoyance that so often occur, especially to persons who
quickly loose their tempers. Men can accomplish more in fifteen minutes
using the bridle than in fifteen hours with any other means, as it does
not inflict a severe punishment when properly used, but never fails to
secure obedience. Therefore, as in most cases it is used, I, in the
present, introduce it again.
Put a surcingle on the horse, attach a strap to his nigh fore-foot
between the fetlock joint and hoof and draw it up to within eight or ten
inches of his body, then take a strap or cord, say 6 or 7 feet long,
and fasten it to his off fore-leg in the same manner and secure the
services of some person to assist you, directing him to stand on the
off-side, and, when directed, to pull up his foot. Place on the horse
the Bonaparte bridle, and take your position in front of him with bridle
in hand, requesting assistant to pull, when your horse will come down on
his knees, now pull on your bridle and say, “Come here,” when he will
soon obey you. Do not make your lessons long, but repeat them often; not
forgetting to caress him if he should make the slightest move towards you.
Never attempt to teach a horse this trick with shoes on his hind-feet, as
he might cut himself, which would cause him to dread a second effort.
_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO DRIVE A BOY OFF THE PEDESTAL._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO DRIVE A BOY OFF THE PEDESTAL.]
It will be necessary to first educate the horse to mount the pedestal.
Instructions to do this may be found elsewhere; then proceed in the
following manner to educate to the above trick. Put on the Bonaparte
bridle, using a cord, say twenty feet long, and send your horse away from
you with a whip, the length of the cord, then give him a slight pull, and
say, “Come here;” then run from him and mount the pedestal yourself; when
he approaches he will try to mount, and as he does so you jump off. After
you have thus exercised him a few times get a boy to assist you. Let the
boy stand on the pedestal, and say to your horse, “Come here and mount
up;” instruct the boy to leave so soon as the animal shall mount.
You will find this trick quite a sensational one, and not difficult to
learn your horse.
_TO SHAKE HANDS._
This is easily accomplished by tying a short strap or piece of cord to
the forward foot below the fetlock; then stand directly in front of the
horse, and hold the end of the strap in your hand, and say, “Shake hands,
sir.” After which pull immediately upon the strap, which will bring his
foot forward, and which you are to accept as shaking hands; then, of
course, you must caress and feed him, and keep him repeating, until, when
you make the demand, he will bring the foot forward in anticipation of
having it pulled up.
_HOW TO MAKE A HORSE BOW._
Prick him in the breast with a pin, till he throws his head down and up
the least bit; then take the pin away, and caress him kindly; repeat for
a few times, until when you stand back and attract his attention, he will
nod his head, expecting a prick in the breast.
_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO SIT DOWN._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO SIT DOWN.]
Horses differ very much in their capacity for being taught therefore, if
you desire a pleasing subject, select one that is tractable. Directions:
Make the Bonaparte bridle, and place it on your horse, so that you may
have him under proper control, then put on him a common hame collar; now
take two pole-straps and place one on each hind-leg, below the fetlock
joint, and attach a cord, say twelve feet long, to each strap, carry your
cord up through the collar on each side and bring the ends behind him,
holding also the end of the Bonaparte bridle in your hand, and commence
to pull on your cords; now repeat over the words, “sit down;” as he goes
backwards draw up still more on your cords, until he shall sit down. Do
not allow him to remain in this sitting posture more than a minute the
first lesson. Repeat this two or three times a day for five or six days,
and you, with the assistance of a whip pointed downwards to the ground,
will witness the pleasing effect of your instruction by seeing your horse
sit down at the word of command.
_TO CURE THE SCRATCHES IN THE SHORTEST TIME EVER KNOWN._
Use two tablespoonfuls of lard, and one tablespoonful of slacked lime;
brush out the dirt and dust from the foot; _use no water_. Apply the
salve, well mixed, twice each day. It will cure the worst cases in 4 to 6
days.
Another remedy:
Hydrate of potassa, 10 grains; pulverized nut-galls, ½ oz.; white lead,
pulverized opium, each ¼ oz.; lard, ¼ lb. Wash with soap-suds, rub dry,
and apply the mixture night and morning. Give purging ball.
_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO BORE FOR OIL._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO BORE FOR OIL.]
Place on your horse the Camanche bridle, and educate him to the words,
“Come here,” so that he will mind you readily on hearing the words; by
this you can better control him while educating to the trick in question.
Some difficulty may at first be experienced, but by patience and
perseverance you will not fail.
Take an ordinary pole-strap and place it on your horse below the fetlock
joint on the off fore-foot; now take one loose turn round the nigh
fore-foot, and take the end of the strap in one hand, with the other hand
pull gently on the bridle, using the words as instructed. Your animal
will attempt to obey, but will find himself somewhat hampered, yet he
will quickly learn. If he should at first move a foot to please you,
say “Whoa,” and then caress. Make your lesson short, and do not try to
force him too much, for if you do he will become excited and resist your
effort.
_HOW TO MAKE A HORSE WALK UP._
First put a rope around his neck, bring it down through his mouth, back
through the loop on the neck, jerk him till he raises his fore-feet
the least bit, then stop and caress him; then check him up tight to a
surcingle—from the bit to the side-ring is the better way; then jerk on
the cord, and he will soon get up erect; repeat, still caressing him
well for all he does; he will soon get up at the motion of the whip. You
should, when practicing him, repeat the words, “get up, sir!” It is in
this manner I taught Tom Thumb to go up and down stairs, and to perform
on the stage in different places, affording amusement to thousands of
witnesses.
_A SURE METHOD OF MAKING A HORSE BAD TO CATCH._
[Illustration: A SURE METHOD OF MAKING A HORSE BAD TO CATCH.]
Two or three pages might be written upon this subject, and profitably
read by owners of horses. Young men and boys are largely addicted to the
habit of riding or leading the horse up to the bars or fence, and, some
being too lazy to let down the rails properly, compelling him to jump
over, and if he resists, the first effort is to hit him with the bridle
or halter, and away the animal goes almost frantic with fear. To another
class it proves an amusement, certainly arising from a depraved nature,
as they like to see the animal jump; and to enjoy their sport they hurry
him over regardless of consequences—not thinking they are laying the
foundation of a very bad habit in the horse—that of being bad to catch
in the field. Let those who have been guilty in the past, after reading
this paragraph over, desist from pursuing such a course of conduct
toward horses, and ere long the time will come when there will be no need
to apply the remedy—elsewhere found—to educate the horse that is bad to
catch in the field.
_HIDE BOUND._
This condition of the skin is usually produced by any derangement of
system. Medicine of an alterative character is here indicated. The most
successful remedy is sulphur, pulverized, 8 oz.; nitrate of potassa,
pulverized, 3 oz.; black antimony, pulverized, 2 oz.; sulphate of iron, 4
oz. Mix well together, and give one tablespoonful twice a day.
Another good remedy:
Take saltpetre, 4 oz.; crude antimony, 1 oz.; sulphur, 2 oz. Both the
saltpetre and antimony should be finely pulverized, then add the sulphur,
and mix well together. Dose: tablespoonful of the mixture in bran-mash
daily.
_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO TAKE A HANDKERCHIEF FROM HIS SIDE._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO TAKE A HANDKERCHIEF FROM HIS SIDE.]
The reader must understand that it is necessary first to educate your
animal to obey the words “come here” and “whoa,” before he can be taught
tricks successfully.
There must be great caution used in teaching the above trick. First
stand on the nigh-side and prick the animal lightly on the shoulder; he
will reach round and bite near where the punishment is inflicted. After
you have repeated this a few times, hold a handkerchief in hand with
the pin and he will soon catch hold of it with his teeth; as you use
the pin, say “Take it from the nigh-side.” Next prick him with a pin on
the off-shoulder, handkerchief accompanying, and say “Take it from the
off-side.” When you have given him five or six lessons, you may hold the
handkerchief on his side and touch him with your finger, repeating the
words above directed. The instructor must be cautious when using the pin
in educating, not to provoke so as to make the animal cross.
_DISTEMPER._
All catarrhal affections are classed by horse owners under the head of
distemper. Common catarrh, epidemic catarrh, laryngitis, bronchitis,
and all other diseases accompanied by nasal discharges, are regarded by
horsemen as one and the same.
The following remedy is to cure distemper in its simple form, as we find
it in colts soon after the disease commences. If there is swelling under
the jaws, poultice the throat with flaxseed meal, or bread and milk.
Apply mustard and vinegar, and give internally one of the following
powders in feed: pulverized gentian, 2 ounces; sulph. copper, 1 oz.;
pulverized ginger, 6 drams; mix, and divide into 8 powders.
_TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO KISS A BOY._
[Illustration: TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO KISS A BOY.]
This kind of education is not particularly beneficial to the horse owner,
but it illustrates clearly the idea foreshadowed in many parts of my
work: first, that the horse may be taught almost anything that is in his
power to do; second, that if you go rightly to work you may so gain his
confidence that he will cheerfully obey every reasonable command.
_Direction._—Take a piece of apple, place it in your mouth and say to
your horse, “Kiss me.” He will approach you to take it; when he does
so caress him. After repeating this a few times, when you approach him
extend your mouth towards his and repeat the words “kiss me.” If he does
not respond, place a piece of apple in your mouth as before, and repeat
it until he shall obey without the use of the apple.
_BONE SPAVIN._
One-half pound of blood root; 1 quart of alcohol; 2 oz. tannin; ¼ lb.
alum. Mix and let stand. Shaking several times a day till the strength is
all in the alcohol, and bathe the spavin twice a day, rubbing with the
hand.
_FOR WINDGALLS._
Olive oil, 2 oz.; nitric acid, ¼ oz. Rub as much in every day, or every
second or third day, as will bear without starting the hair.
_FOR INFLAMED SWELLINGS OR LAMED SHOULDERS._
Equal parts oil amber, oil spike, gum camphor, and ether. Should be
shaken well before using, and well rubbed in with the hand.
EDUCATING DOGS.
[Illustration: EDUCATING DOGS.]
_TO ROLL A BARREL._
Place, on the dog the Bonaparte bridle so that you may control him; then
put his fore-feet upon the barrel, standing in front of him with a piece
of meat extended towards him, and say, “Roll the barrel;” pull gently on
the cord, and if he should start the barrel don’t fail to caress him.
With two dogs, put one on the top of the barrel, and they will quickly
learn to roll it without being enticed by meat.
_TO FIRE A GUN._
Drill a hole in the back of a common chair; attach a piece of iron at the
lower part of the pistol, and place it in the chair as illustrated; tie a
string with a knot in the end, to the trigger; let it run through a ring
in the butt of the pistol, then tie a piece of meat to the end of the
string; now the dog will try to get the meat; in doing so he will fire it
off. Load the pistol with blank cartridges. A few lessons will educate
the animal so that at the order, “Make ready—present—fire!” he will obey.
Place his mate in front of the pistol in a sitting posture and stand
near him, and when the report is heard, teach him to lie down, which
you can easily do by at first pressing him down with your hand until he
will mind the word “dead.” Dogs are remarkably fond of being caressed,
and the reader should not neglect this important accompaniment to his
instructions.
[Illustration: EDUCATION OF DOGS—CONTINUED]
_TO PASS BETWEEN YOUR LEGS._
Hold meat in your hand and pass it from one hand to the other between
your legs. Occasionally give the animal a small piece; you will thus
induce him after a little to obey the command “Pass through,” motioning
in the direction with your hand.
_TO JUMP THROUGH A HOOP._
At the first lesson procure a barrel hoop and elevate it, say six inches
from the ground, holding it in your hand, and with the other hold out
a piece of meat a short distance from the hoop, and say to your dog,
“Jump.” He will go for the meat; increase the height of the hoop a little
each time, and you will soon have taught him so that you may not only
reduce the hoop in size, but he will obey you without the use of meat.
_TO STAND ON CHAIRS._
Place two chairs back to back; then separate the chairs, say one foot
apart, and decoy your dog to mount on one chair; then hold a piece of
meat in your hand elevated above the chairs, and it will attempt to climb
for the meat; repeat this process a few times, and soon you will educate
the animal to rest its feet on the back of each chair; after which
you may increase the distance until you distend the body, as seen in
engraving, in accordance with your wishes. Continue until it will readily
obey you without the use of meat; often caress the animal, as by this
means you increase confidence and secure obedience.
MISCELLANEOUS.
_FOR CURING COLIC IN HORSES._
[Illustration: EFFECTUAL REMEDY FOR COLIC.]
_Symptoms._—Pawing, manifesting a desire to be down, and, without doing
so, commence pawing again. As the symptoms increase the animal cannot be
kept on his feet; he frequently falls as if shot; pulse not altered from
natural condition. Intervals of rest, together with the condition of the
pulse, distinguish the disease from inflammation of the bowels. Treat as
follows:
Take a piece of woolen cloth, about one foot square, or its equivalent
in pieces, saturate the cloth thoroughly with mutton or beef tallow,
using from a quarter to a half pound, then roll up the cloth and it is
ready for use; next place a blanket over the head of the horse, as seen
in engraving; then set fire to the cloth, holding it under the horses
head with a shovel, and allowing him to inhale the smoke. Care should be
used so as not to strangle the horse. By strictly following the foregoing
treatment the efficacy of this remedy will be shown, as the animal will
be relieved in from fifteen to twenty minutes.
Another remedy is:
Frequent injections of soap and water; and give internally, spirits of
nitre, 10 drams; laudanum, 10 drams; water, ½ pint. Mix for drench. This
may be repeated in twenty minutes, if relief is not obtained.
Another remedy, giving _instant_ relief:
From 45 to 50 drops of chloroform, given on sugar, I have never known to
fail giving immediate relief.
I have known men to be from home, and have their horses taken with this
disease, and use this remedy, and in thirty minutes the horses were able
to be driven.
_THE ONLY SAFE AND PRACTICAL WAY TO GIVE A HORSE MEDICINE._
[Illustration: THE ONLY PRACTICAL AND SAFE WAY TO GIVE MEDICINE.]
Much difficulty is experienced in giving medicine to a horse, but those
who view and comprehend the foregoing illustration will see how easily
all difficulty may be removed. In administering the medicine while the
animal is standing, there is a constant liability to annoyance from the
danger of strangling, by holding the head too high, or of spilling the
medicine, in which cases the owner is foiled and the horse is left to
suffer. The idea as illustrated, of which I claim to be the originator,
though simple in itself is of great importance.
_Directions._—If your horse is standing, use the directions previously
given to throw him; when down, turn his mouth upward and pull a little
on the cord used in throwing him, when he will open his mouth, and you
can give the medicine with a spoon without risk of spilling it; always
observing care not to allow it to enter the nostrils, by which a horse
may easily be strangled. Any person following these directions, will soon
appreciate the value of the method described.
_SPAVIN._
This being a valuable recipe, it is worth money to any man dealing in
horses.
Euphorbium, 5 oz.; cantharides, fine, 2 oz., iodine, 1 oz., dissolved in
alcohol; red precipitate, ½ oz.; corrosive sublimate, 2 oz.; quicksilver,
½ oz.; hog’s lard, 6 oz.; white turpentine, 6 oz.; verdigris, ¼ lb. Melt
the lard and turpentine together, then, while hot, add the others, except
the quicksilver, which must be stirred in as it becomes cold. Mix well.
When cold it is fit for use. Rub it in well on the spavin every day for
three days, then wash clean with soap-suds, and omit for three days; then
repeat for three days, and so continue until a perfect cure is effected.
Should it blister, use more cautiously.
_TO TELL A HORSE’S AGE._
There is only one sure way of telling the age of a horse, and that is
by an examination of his teeth, and that only extends to a certain age,
although an experienced horseman can guess very nearly for some time
after that period. There are six teeth in the front part of a horse’s
mouth, above and below, called the gatherers, from which we may judge of
his age. When a colt is foaled, he generally has no teeth in the front
part of his mouth. In a few days, two come in the upper jaw, and two
below; and again, after a few days, four more appear, but the corner
teeth do not make their appearance until he is four or five months old;
these twelve teeth remain unchanged in the front of the colt’s mouth
until he is about two years old, when he sheds the two center nippers.
At three years old, a colt sheds the adjoining teeth. At four years old,
the under or corner teeth. At five years old, the bridle tooth makes its
appearance. At six years old, the cups leave the two center teeth below.
At seven years old, the cups leave the adjoining teeth. At eight years
old, the cups leave the outer or corner teeth. At nine years old, the
cups leave the two center nippers, above. At ten years old, the cups
leave the adjoining teeth. At eleven years old, the cups leave the corner
upper teeth. At twelve years, or past, the groove on inside of the bridle
tooth disappears in a horse. Mares very seldom have them.
_NEW METHOD TO TELL THE AGE._
(See engraving of horse’s teeth from the age of 7 to 18 years. Always
look for the cups in the upper teeth.)
[Illustration: 18 Years.
16 Years.
14 Years.
7 Years.
8 Years.
9 Years.
10 Years.
11 Years.
12 Years.]
7 years. The cups in center of teeth are large.
8 years. A trifle smaller.
9 years. Still smaller.
11 years. Smaller.
12 years. Cups in center of teeth are smaller and nearly round.
14 years. The teeth are round and cups have nearly disappeared.
16 years. Are a mere speck in the teeth; scarcely discernible.
18 years. The cups have worn away, and the teeth are round.
TRAINING STEERS.
Drive your steer in a small yard, fenced so that he cannot escape. Then
approach him gently, and if he runs, do not run after him, but follow
slowly and quietly. Should he again run from you, do not strike him with
the whip, or in any way frighten him, he will soon stand and permit you
to approach him. Place then around his body a surcingle or strap, near
the fore-legs. Take a hame-strap and buckle around the near fore-foot;
take a cord or rope, and pass it through under the surcingle, and tie to
the strap which is around the foot. The cord should be twenty or thirty
feet long, to permit him to run about you in the yard, without your
pulling on it. Draw up on the rope to force him to move on three legs;
approach him gently, till he will permit you to handle him as you please.
Then hold up the near fore-foot by the cord, with your left hand, and
holding the whip in your right, pass it over his shoulder, and quietly
touch him on the off-side of his head, and at the same time say, “Haw!”
continue thus till he moves his head towards you, for which caress him
about the head and neck; repeat this till he will “haw,” at the word,
towards you. Should he attempt to run from you, pull on the strap, say
“Haw,” at the same time touch him on the head with the whip. He will soon
learn to stop at the word of command, in, this way, and turn towards you
readily. Then take off the rig and turn him loose. Then proceed with the
mate in the same way, when you can turn it out, and by this time the
other steer will be ready to receive another lesson. Drive it in the
same yard, and repeat the lesson with a whip. Quietly touch on the near
side of the head, and at the same time say, “Gee!” until he will move
around from you. Then caress him, till he will “gee” or “haw” readily. Go
through the same lesson with the other. That is all you should try to do
with them in four hours’ time. Take both together in the yard; repeat
this lesson till both understand what you desire of them. Take one of
them near the wall; stand by his side; hit him gently on the head, at the
same time say “Back!” till he will step back; then caress him. Repeat,
till he will go back readily at the word. Give each the same lesson. This
manner of training steers will make them always do your bidding. When
convenient, repeat the above lessons, with both together. Then put on
the yoke, and let them go. One hour, at first, is long enough to become
accustomed to the restraint of the yoke. Repeat this in the yard.
If the steers should ever run from you, which often occurs in an ordinary
method of training, buckle a hame-strap around the foot, bring it up
through the surcingle back to the sled or wagon, between the steers. Let
the man pull on the cord if they attempt to run away; this will pull up
their feet; whip them over the head, which will stop them and break up
the habit.
TREATISE ON HORSESHOEING.
The main object should be to have the shoe so formed as to size, weight,
fitting, and fastening, as to combine the most advantages of protection,
and preserve the natural tread of the foot the best. In weight, it should
be proportioned to the work or employment of the horse. The foot should
not be loaded with more iron than is necessary to preserve it. If the
work of the horse is principally on the road, at heavy draught, the shoe
should be rather heavy, in order that it may not be bent by contact with
hard, uneven earth; it should be wide in the web, and of equal thickness
and width from the toe to the heel, that it may as much as possible
protect the sole, without altering the natural position of the foot;
it should be well drawn in at the heels, that it may rest on the bars,
thereby protecting the corn place, or angles between the bar and crust,
and should in no part extend beyond the outer edge of the crust.
It is too often the case that the shoe is made according to the smith’s
notions of what the form of the horse’s foot should be, and the foot is
pared, burned, and rasped until it fits the shoe. Now, it should always
be borne in mind that the shoe is intended for the foot, and not the foot
for the shoe, and that it is therefore peculiarly proper to make the shoe
fit the natural form of the foot. It is impossible to have the foot of a
horse sound and safe, for work and use, after bringing it to an unnatural
figure, by the use of the knife and rasp. The foot of the horse being
elastic, it expands to the weight of the horse, in precisely the same
degree, whether resting upon the most open or the most contracted shoe.
Therefore, the shape of the shoe cannot possibly affect the shape of the
foot. The form of the foot is determined by the situation of the nails
If the nails are placed so that the inside quarters and heels are left
free to expand in a natural manner, no shape which we can give to the
shoe can of itself change the form of the foot. It must not be inferred,
however, from this that the shape of the shoe is of no importance; quite
the contrary being the case, as I have already shown. In forming the
shoe, we should always adopt that which produces the greatest number of
advantages with the fewest disadvantages.
We find that the sole-surface of the foot is by nature concave in form,
which seems to offer the greatest fulcrum of resistance to the horse when
traveling. It is important to preserve the natural mechanical action of
the horn and sole; therefore the ground surface of the foot, that is to
say, the ground surface of the shoe, should be leveled cup fashion; its
outer edge being prominent, corresponds to the lower and outer rim of the
hoof; while the shoe being hollow, resembles the natural cavity of the
sole of the foot. The ground surface of the shoe should always be concave.
The pattern that nature has presented us in making the sole concave,
cannot be improved upon by the smith, with all his skill. The expansion
of the heels, and growth of the foot, require that the shoe should be
long enough, and wide enough at the heels, to allow for the natural
growth of the foot in the time it is calculated the shoe should be on
before being reset; for as the foot enlarges, the shoe is brought forward
until it loses its original proportion, and becomes too short and narrow.
The shoe may be about a quarter of an inch wider and longer than the
extreme bearing of the heels; and the nail-holes should be punched coarse
and in the center of the web. The manner of fastening the shoe is what
really affects the foot, and what requires the most special attention in
shoeing; for the foot, being elastic, expands in the same proportion on
the rough as on the nicely-fitted shoe. It is the number and position of
the nails that really affect the foot. If they are placed well back in
the quarters, four on a side, as is common, the crust is held as firmly
to this unyielding shoe as if in a vice, which utterly prevents the free
action necessary to its health. Inflammation is produced, which causes
contraction and the consequent, derangement of the whole foot. If the
free natural expansion of the foot, and the spreading of the quarters
in proportion to the growth of the hoof is prevented by the nailing
of the shoe, irritation of the fleshy substance between the crust and
coffin-bone will result, and ultimately create so much diseased action
of the parts as to cause contraction and navicular disease. Shoes may
be fastened without causing such mischief, if the following method of
nailing is observed.
In experimenting, for the purpose of ascertaining how few nails are
absolutely necessary, under ordinary circumstances, for retaining the
shoe securely in its place as long as it should remain upon the foot, it
has been satisfactorily established that five nails are amply sufficient
for the fore shoes, and seven for the hind ones, three should be placed
on the outside of the foot, and two on the inner side, near the toe,
thereby leaving the foot free to expand in a natural manner. The nails
should not be driven high up in the crust, but brought out as soon as
possible. Another mistake with most smiths is in rasping the clinches
away too fine; they should be turned broad and flat. It is also a custom
with some to rasp and sand-paper the whole surface of the hoof, for
the purpose of making it look nice and smooth. Such a practice should
never be tolerated; the covering thus removed is provided by nature to
protect the too rapid evaporation of the moisture of the hoof, and when
taken away, causes the horn to become dry and brittle. It has so long
been customary to use as many nails as could be conveniently driven, in
fact, of fastening the shoe as if it were to a lifeless block of wood,
that the fear is very commonly entertained that the shoe will not be
held in its place with so few nails. Such fears are utterly groundless,
as both theory and practice demonstrate. If the presence of a nail in
the crust were a matter of no moment, and two or three more than are
really necessary were merely useless, no great reason would exist for
condemning the common practice of using too many nails, but it is far
otherwise; the nails, aside from confining the natural expansion of the
hoof, separate the fibres of the horn, which never, by any chance, become
united again, but continue apart and unclosed, until, by degrees, they
grow down with the rest of the hoof, and are finally, after repeated
shoeing, removed by the knife.
As these holes cannot possibly grow down and be removed under three
shoeings, it will be found, even with a small number of nails, that
three times that number of holes must exist in the hoof all the while;
and as they are often, from various causes, extended into each other,
they necessarily keep it in a brittle, unhealthy state, and materially
interfere with the future nail-hold. As the position of the hind-foot,
and the nature of its office, render it less liable to injury than the
fore-foot, consequently, it less frequently lames; however, disease of
the navicular bone of this foot is by no means impossible. The same care
should be taken as with the fore-foot. Calks, although they may be
turned down of perfectly even length on each side (which is seldom done),
are objectionable appendages, and should be dispensed with, except,
perhaps, for very heavy draughts, or when the roads are frozen or covered
with ice.
_TO PREVENT HORSES INTERFERING._
[Illustration: INTERFERING AND OVERREACHING.
_Fig. 1._ _Fig. 2._ _Fig. 3._]
Nature has provided a proper hoof for the horse, but sometimes it is
round and flat and the animal will strike itself with the crust when not
shod; the natural tendency being to travel very close, especially with
the hind-feet.
Well-informed minds, together with the mechanical skill of many
blacksmiths, have been brought to bear upon this topic, and after years
of experience and research they have been unable to remedy this evil. As
such I term it, because horses have suffered much, and become depreciated
in value because of being addicted to the annoying habit of interfering.
I here propose to give a sure and certain remedy that has never been
known to fail. The preparation of the hoof is by no means as important
as that of the shoe; yet, should the animal interfere very badly, it may
be better to leave the outside a trifle the lowest; however, the smith
ought to be governed by circumstances, not as to the shoe, but to paring
the hoof. All that can be removed from the inside without putting the
hoof out of shape ought to be done. Also pare the hoof at the toe instead
of the heel, simply rasping it so as to form a level surface. Prepare
the shoe carefully in accordance with the following directions, and as
illustrated on foregoing engraving, Fig. 1:
Make the inside twice the width and twice the thickness that you do the
outside, gradually tapering the width and thickness from the toe-calk.
Make the heel-calk on the inside or heavy part of the shoe, about an inch
long, and lengthwise from heel to toe, and incline it a little inward to
the frog of the foot. Don’t allow your shoes to remain on longer than
four weeks at most, and use as small nails as possible.
_OVERREACHING._
Young horses are more subject to overreaching than old ones. It very
frequently disappears as the speed of the animal is increased. At a
moderate gait, the front feet do not always get out of the way in time
for the hind ones, as they are brought forward. Sometimes the heels
are cut or badly bruised, and occasionally the shoes are torn from the
fore-feet.
_Remedy._—Have the front shoes made nearly twice the weight of the hind
shoes. Lower the toe-calk on the fore shoe and increase the ordinary
length of the calk on the hind shoe, and do not make the fore shoe to
project more than half an inch beyond the heel. If the horse should
have a good square heel, don’t allow the shoe to project any. Observe
to instruct the smith to pare the toe or forward part of the fore-foot,
and _not the heel_, simply rasping it to form a level surface. See
illustration of shoes, Figs. 2 and 3.
SURE METHOD OF PRODUCING A RAPID GROWTH IN HORSES’ HOOFS.—Wash the hoof
and apply common soft soap inside and out, twice a day, avoiding to rub
any on the frog of the foot. Care should be used so as not to allow the
soap to remain on the hair near the hoof. By putting a mark near the
hair, the operator will be better able to judge the rapid growth. While
using the above, should the hoof get soft, apply salt, which will quickly
harden. I have grown an entirely new hoof on a horse in six weeks, by
following the above direction.
AN EXPOSITION OF THE DUNBAR SYSTEM OF HORSESHOEING, AND TREATMENT OF THE
HORSE’S FOOT.
_As taught to the Farriers of the United States Army by ALEXANDER DUNBAR,
under the authority of the Joint Resolution of Congress, and for which
Dunbar received twenty-five thousand dollars. Highly recommended to the
U. S. Army by Robert Banner and George Wilkes._
_INSTRUCTIONS FOR FITTING AND DRIVING THE SHOE._
The first thing to be done is to carefully examine the horse’s feet all
around, to see that they are of a natural shape, taking care to abstain
from any action that will tend to excite the horse.
The shoes should be removed one at a time, and the nails carefully drawn
after the clinches are cut, one at a time; anything like tearing off the
shoe by main force should by all means be avoided.
The shoe being removed, the rasp should then be used on the edge of the
foot where the shoe has been, removing all dirt and gravel which may have
accumulated there, and thus prevent injury to the shoeing knife.
If the foot is healthy and of a natural shape, and has been shod
regularly, no alteration is required, but simply to pare out the sole of
the foot, removing the bors entirely, and opening out the heels back. The
surface of the frog should be trimmed off a very little, but the sides
should never be cut.
By reference to Plate No. 12 the exact idea of the system of paring
the foot may be gained. It has been practiced successfully, and is
recommended for the simple reason that by the system of removing the bors
and opening out the heels, contraction is prevented, and the frog retains
its natural shape, because all pressure is removed from each side.
The foot should not be scooped out so as to leave the wall projecting
without any support; for the wall of the hoof is the base upon which the
horse travels, and this should be supported by a sufficiency of the sole
as a “ground surface.” The shoes should be removed and the feet prepared
one at a time.
In fitting a shoe to the foot, after it has been thoroughly prepared, the
farrier should take hold of the foot and see that the shoe is perfectly
easy on the heels, and that he has sufficient room all around in the
manner illustrated on Plate No. 11. If the shoe is found to fit well
everywhere, he will take the foot between his knees, and placing the
shoe properly, drive the nails with great care, so that the shoe cannot
get out of its proper place. When the nails are started he should hammer
them home lightly, or according to the foot he is working on. The three
nails on the inside and outside, toward the toe, should always be driven
a little tighter than the heel nails, so as to prevent pressure on the
heels. No man should be in a hurry in shoeing a horse, but should always
be careful in fitting and driving the shoe as instructed.
A shoe should never be fitted tightly, unless the coffin-bone has too
much play; then it should be fitted tight around the toe and each
quarter, as far as the nail-holes extend back, in order to contract the
foot, and bring the coffin-bone to its proper place. Such cases are,
however, very rare.
The heels of the shoe should never be allowed to curve inward toward the
frog, and the foot should be prepared so as to prevent any pressure from
the shoe on the heel, in the manner shown by Plate No. 14, at the same
time allowing the bearing of the shoe to be perfectly equal.
If the horse has a long foot it should be shortened on the toe as much
as possible—the more the better—for the hoof grows out more quickly
at the toe; and it is necessary, because in a case of this kind the
coffin-bone is necessarily out of its proper position, and the operation
of shortening the toe must be continued until it resumes its natural
shape; but a close operation, and working the horse at the same time, is
not recommended, because the foot can be brought to its proper shape by
cutting gradually in time.
After the cutting has been performed, a shoe should be fitted so as to
have the pressure on each quarter, and with heels, if the horse’s heels
are naturally low, in order to prevent a sudden change.
A horse should be re-shod at least once a month.
PLATE NO. 3—_Paring out the Foot._—By reference to this plate it will be
seen what a difference there exists between the system recommended and
practiced by Mr. Dunbar, and the old style practiced and recommended by
all authorities on the subject heretofore.
[Illustration: No. 3. PARING THE FOOT.
_a_ New Style. _b_ Old Style.]
The bors should be _cut away entirely_, removing the pressure from the
frog, and cutting out the heel. By this system of paring the foot a
ground surface will always be left, commencing at the heel and expanding
gradually, as illustrated by the plates “A” to “C;” the sides of the
frog should never be cut, but the top should be cut down sufficiently to
allow it to be clear of the ground after the shoe is fitted. The cleft of
the frog should always be cleaned out thoroughly every time the shoe is
renewed.
PLATES NOS. 4. AND 5—_Long Feet before and after Cutting._—A horse with
a long foot, as will be easily seen, will suffer from an undue pressure
on the heels (see article on Corns), causing corns, and in addition to
that, if the foot is not shortened in time, it will cause the coffin-bone
to lose its proper shape, but this can be remedied by shortening the toe
every time the horse is shod, thus keeping the foot in its proper shape.
[Illustration: No. 4. LONG FOOT—BEFORE TREATMENT.]
[Illustration: No. 5. LONG FOOT—AFTER TREATMENT.]
The common practice of fitting a shoe tight on the heels, to prevent
interfering, is entirely wrong; an interfering horse does not strike
with his heel, but with the inner side of the toe, not further back than
the heel-nails, both hind and forward. To prevent this, the shoe should
be fitted wider on the _inner_ than on the _outer_ heel. A horse that
interferes should be carefully examined by the farrier before shoeing,
who will notice particularly the shape of his feet. If the animal stands
_inward_ and interferes, the _outside_ quarter should be cut down, and
thus throw the foot level; and if he stands outward and interferes, the
_inside_ quarter should be cut down for the same reason. After this a
shoe should be fitted with no nails on the inner quarter, which
should be _thickest_.
To prevent a horse traveling pigeon-toed is simply to pare off the inner
quarter of the toe, and have the shoe fitted as above. By this operation
the bearing will be level. This will apply also to a horse for light
riding, and for a horse traveling between the shafts; but for the latter
a good block heel on the outer, and a small one on the inner quarter of
the shoe should be made; the toe also to be made thick in proportion, to
make the bearing level.
[Illustration: No. 10. COFFIN-BONE.
Fig. 1.
_a_ Upper pastern.
_b_ Lower pastern.
_c_ Navicular bone.
_d_ Coffin-bone.
Fig. 2.
_a_ Upper pastern.
_b_ Lower pastern.
_c_ Navicular bone.
_d_ Coffin-bone, with the horny laminæ.]
PLATE NO. 10 is a representation of a perfectly healthy coffin-bone, with
the upper and lower pastern and navicular bones front, and reverse sides.
The system recommended by the author is intended to prevent any pressure
whatever on the wings of the coffin-bone. Anything that prevents the
perfectly free action of the coffin-bone will cause “navicular disease,”
and “ossified cartilages.” After a foot is pared, as recommended in this,
so as to be easily expanded, the wings of the coffin-bone, which are the
widest part, should be protected by a wide shoe, and there should be no
pressure whatever on the heels.
[Illustration: No. 11. FITTING A SHOE TO REMOVE PRESSURE FROM THE HEEL.]
[Illustration: No. 12. CONTRACTED. NATURAL.
No. 13. OLD STYLE PARING OUT THE FOOT. NEW STYLE.]
[Illustration: No. 14. CONTRACTED FOOT AFTER TREATMENT.]
_CORNS._
The pressure of the bor on one side of the seat of the disease, and of
the horny substance of a contracted heel on the other side, added to
a tight shoe, causes inflammation, which, when it becomes chronic, is
styled a _corn_.
A corn may be detected by paring the foot close. It is not necessary, as
recommended by some authorities, to use pincers, squeezing the hoof all
around to find the corn, thereby giving the horse unnecessary pain. They
are to be found only in the heel, and do not result from bruises, but
from pressure.
_Treatment._—The shoe having been removed, the inside of the hoof should
be pared out thoroughly all around, and if a long hoof, it should be
shortened. If the corn is visible, the heel should be pared down and the
bors weakened, opening the heel as far back as possible (see Plate No.
11), and fitting an open shoe, so as to throw the pressure off the heel.
The pressure having been removed, the corn will disappear, or grow down
in the quarter, in which case the farrier should fit a bor shoe, so as
to throw the weight off the diseased heel and partly on the frog, the
elastic surface of which will prevent severe pressure.
If a horse has a long foot, the pressure is more on the corns, because
his foot is in front of him, and an over-proportion of his weight comes
on his heels. A horse with a long foot is like a man with a thick sole to
his boot and no heels, for with his heels he strikes the ground first.
Every horse should have his feet well _under_ him, and not in _front_ of
him. This fact should be taken into consideration when fitting the open
shoe.
Inflammation should be reduced by placing a swab over the coronet, and
using a hot poultice of linseed meal for the foot.
[Illustration: No. 15. EXPANDING THE FOOT AFTER IT HAS BEEN PARED OUT.]
[Illustration: No. 16. LATERAL QUARTER-CRACK BEFORE TREATMENT. CONTRACTED
FOOT.]
[Illustration: No. 17. QUARTER-CRACK—LATERAL—UNDER TREATMENT.]
[Illustration: No. 18. STRAIGHT QUARTER-CRACK UNDER TREATMENT.]
The pressure having been removed from a corn for a fortnight, it will be
observed to have a light color, representing the color of a new corn, and
if properly treated, it will gradually disappear, and be displaced by a
healthy growth of foot.
The horse should be allowed at least a month in which to recover from
his lameness; but it is not necessary to turn him out to grass, and care
should be taken that his feet are closely attended to, having the shoes
renewed about once in a fortnight.
_Contraction_ is the result of neglect, want of natural moisture, and
tight shoeing. The result is lameness, if in one foot, and if in both
feet, the loss of their free, natural use, causing short steps and
stumbling. If the inner quarter is contracted, it is the cause, if not
soon remedied, of quarter-crack. The practice of fitting a shoe so as to
fit tighter on the inner than the outer quarter, to prevent interfering,
renders it more liable to contraction.
The want of proper moisture causes the horn to shrink, and prevents the
foot from expanding naturally. This should be remedied by soaking the
feet, if feverish, in warm, and if healthy, in cold water, twice a day,
an hour at each time. This moisture should be applied at least two hours
before the horse is used. This will render the foot elastic, and prevent
abuse from traveling over rough roads.
By reference to accompanying plate, No. 12, the difference will be
observed between a natural and a contracted foot. The quarters growing
toward each other in the contracted, cause the coffin-bone to lose its
proper shape, and forcing the sensitive frog upwards from its proper
place, causes scratches and thrush.
Treatment of contraction, briefly speaking, is _expansion_. The foot
should be thoroughly prepared in the following manner: If the horse is
lame, the farrier should shorten the toe, lower the foot all around, and
open the heels back until the blood is drawn. The sole of the foot should
be pared as closely as possible on each side of the frog, in the manner
shown by the illustration on Plate No. 12, “natural foot.” The frog
should be lowered, but the side should _not_ be cut. A groove should be
made with a rasp just under and parallel with the coronet on each side
(see Plate No. 14) deep enough to draw blood, then with a fine shoeing
knife, cut little notches down from the cornet and across the groove at
certain equal distances, as shown by illustration No. 14, the entire
length of the groove. These notches should also be deep enough to draw
blood. This will relieve the pressure caused by contraction from the
cartilages on both sides, and allow them to resume their proper shape.
[Illustration: No. 19. QUARTER-CRACK, AFTER TREATMENT.]
[Illustration: No. 20. TOE-CRACK, BEFORE TREATMENT.]
Having the foot ready for a shoe, a hand should be placed on each side
of the foot, pressing it outward in the manner shown by Plate No, 15.
The shoe must be very carefully fitted, and must have eight nail-holes,
for the reason that it is the heel nails that relieve a horse while in
contraction.
The shoe should be fitted so as to project at least a quarter of an inch
on each side of the foot, so as to see the nail-holes projecting on
each side of the outer and inner quarter. Having this accomplished, the
bearing should be equal; the nails must be driven first toward the toe,
then toward the heel, driving them half-way, and using the utmost care
and skill; the higher the nails are driven the better. The shoe being
fitted so wide, there is no fear of pricking.
The nails toward the heel should be driven by alternate taps on each
side, because the foot expands on each side on account of being pared so
thin on either side of the frog, the source of the expansion.
The heel nails should relieve the wings of the coffin-bone, which suffer
most while in a state of contraction, and allow them to come back to
their proper position.
Considerable soreness will result from this mode of treatment, which can
be remedied by using thin poultices of linseed meal, applied as hot as
possible, to be renewed at least once every two days for the period of
two weeks. The foot should also be thoroughly soaked in a bucket of warm
water for half an hour at each renewal of the poultice; this will remove
all soreness, and prevent the foot from shrinking when exposed to the
weather. The _expansion_ treatment should be continued gradually until
the coffin-bone resumes its natural shape; when this is accomplished, the
growing hoof will naturally accommodate itself to the bone.
The severe treatment recommended is necessary only in an aggravated
case causing lameness. It can be so modified by cutting the hoof, and
expanding the foot gradually, as to allow the horse to be used while
under treatment, if he has not been disabled.
_QUARTER AND TOE-CRACKS._
Quarter-cracks are commonly found in feet of saddle horses, and are
caused by contraction and pressure, and are also the result of a shoe
being fitted tightly on the inner quarter, to prevent interfering, as
stated in remarks on “Contraction.”
Most commonly found on the inner quarter; it commences at the coronet,
extending downward, and when it extends through to the laminæ causes
lameness, and is especially serious if the foot is contracted, as shown
by Plate No. 16.
There are two kinds of quarter-cracks, as shown by plates Nos. 17 and
18—the _lateral_ and the _straight_ the latter being the most serious, if
the separation commences at the coronet.
_Treatment._—If the foot is inclined to contract, it should be prepared
as for contraction; shorten the toe and expand the foot, under the
directions already given. If lameness has resulted, a bor shoe should
be fitted, so as to remove all pressure from half an inch on each side
of the crack, then with a rasp cut a groove under and parallel with the
coronet, extending about half an inch on each side of the crack; with a
shoeing knife cut some small notches on each side of the groove, after
which the edges of the crack may be cut away. (See Plates Nos. 17 and
18.) If the foot bleeds freely so much the better. After this is done
a firing-iron should be applied so as to cauterize the crack. This
operation having been performed, the foot should be dressed with tar
every morning for about three weeks. The pressure being removed, the new
growth will commence at the coronet, and extend downward, as shown in
Plate No. 19, until a permanent cure is effected.
[Illustration: No. 21. TOE-CRACK, AFTER TREATMENT.
Explaining use of “Expansion Plate.”]
[Illustration: No. 22. THRUSH.
Before Treatment. After Treatment.
No. 23. PUMICE FOOT.
Before Treatment. After Treatment.]
[Illustration: No. 24. HOOF-BOUND—UNDER TREATMENT.]
Toe-crack, more common to heavy and draught horses, is caused by want of
room; the space inside the wall of the foot not being large enough to
accommodate the laminæ, it causes inflammation, and breaks out at the
weakest point, which is the coronet, and extends downward to the toe,
causing the foot to assume the appearance of a cloven foot. (See Plate
No. 20.)
_Treatment._—Shorten the toe as much as possible, and then pare the sole
of the foot until it will yield to the pressure of the thumb. No pressure
should be allowed within half an inch on each side of the crack on the
toe, for the reason that the pressure on the toe prevents the coronet
from uniting. Having prepared the sole of the foot, a fine shoeing knife
should be used to remove the horn that is inclined to grow inward on each
side of the crack, after which a groove under the coronet, extending on
each side of the crack, will be made, and the notches on each side of the
groove as already directed. A firing-iron should be applied to cauterize
the crack from the coronet downward. Then the crack should be cut away
in the center, so as to allow the use of an “expansion plate,” as shown
in Plate No. 21. This expansion plate can be made of brass or steel. It
is composed of four pieces, as follows: A plate divided in the center
into two equal parts, A and B (see Plate No. 21), and a thread cut in the
center. Each part is made so as to fit dove-tailed into the crack, held
in place with a screw C, and a burr D, underneath, to prevent the screw
from pressing the laminæ of the foot. The screw, which has considerable
power as a lever, forces the two plates apart, lifts up the wall of the
foot which is pressing each side of the crack, and presses it outward.
This being done, an open shoe should be fitted, wider than the foot, so
as to expand it, which, together with the notches cut in the groove under
the coronet, will cause a new and strong growth from each side of the
crack, commencing at the coronet and extending downward.
The length of time required to effect a removal of the crack depends on
the treatment and skill of the operator. If the foot is expanded by the
plate with skill, and the nails in the shoe driven so as to prevent the
wall of the foot from closing in on the crack, the plate may be removed
at once; otherwise it should remain stationary, which can be done by
substituting the small screw E, which will not prevent the horse from
being used while under treatment. The use of the expansion plate is not
necessary, unless the crack extends the whole length of the hoof. The
crack extending from the coronet, partly down the front of the foot,
should be treated at once, removing pressure by shortening the toe and
expanding the foot, as already instructed; then, by means of the groove
and notches, promote a new growth at the coronet.
_THRUSH._
Is a disease of the frog, most common to a foot which is hoof-bound
or contracted, but all horses’ feet are subject to it when they are
neglected. The frog, pressed on each side by the bors of the foot, and
from the overgrowth of the hoof, becomes inflamed, and the result is
_thrush_. (See Plate No. 22.)
[Illustration: No. 25. OVERGROWTH OF HOOF AND NEGLECT.
After Treatment. Ground Surface before Treatment.]
_Treatment if the Hoof is Hoof-bound._—The farrier, after removing the
shoe, should use his rasp, and lower the wall of the foot all around
from heel to heel; then, by the free use of the knife, pare the foot to
its natural size. Also pare around the frog until the sole of the foot
yields to the pressure of the thumb, then open the heels and remove the
pegs that grow on each side of the heels. All this should be done before
a knife is used on the frog. After all pressure is removed by this paring
operation, the condition of the frog will show how it was affected by
pressure on each side.
[Illustration: No. 26. OVERGROWTH OF HOOF—FRONT VIEW BEFORE TREATMENT.]
[Illustration: No. 27. OVERGROWTH OF HOOF—FRONT VIEW AFTER TREATMENT.]
[Illustration: No. 28. NAVICULA.—ENLARGEMENT OF METACARPAL BONE.]
Next, by the use of the knife, cut a slice off the top of the frog, and
carefully clean out the cleft, which suffers most on account of the
direct pressure of the bors on each side of the frog. After this cleaning
operation is performed, a warm poultice of flaxseed meal should be
applied two or three times, according to the condition of the foot. When
the poultice is removed, the foot should be washed out occasionally with
castile soap and warm water, after which a little salt, ground into fine
powder, should be forced into the cleft, and kept in by a mixture of tar
and oakum as a dressing, after which an open shoe should be fitted so as
to expand the foot gradually. This treatment should be pursued until a
permanent cure is effected.
If the foot is in a state of contraction, it should be expanded under the
instructions already given. By this expansion all pressure is removed,
and a permanent cure is easily effected by following the instructions
already given.
No liquid remedies, such as butter of antimony, or chloride of zinc,
should be used, as they dry up the foot before the inflammation is
removed.