SCENES AT THE FISHERY.
Four days we remained at San Pablo making arrangements for the
contemplated expedition to the Apure; but the horses being quartered at
considerable distance, we removed to La Yegüera, a small farm within the
estate exclusively devoted to the breeding of those animals. Great
numbers of mules were also raised there, which made the equine stock
amount to nearly three thousand animals of all ages. There, untrammelled
by barriers of any kind, they roamed at will over those beautiful
meadows in a semi-wild state; their only keeper was a half-breed, who
with his family occupied the Ranch, which on that occasion was to
shelter us also. This Ranch being too small, however, for the
accommodation of the whole party, most of them bivouacked in a grove of
lofty Cesalpinias and Carob trees, from whose spreading branches they
slung their hammocks, the dense foliage forming a sufficient shelter
from the heavy dews of night and the heat of the sun by day.
Our Leader, the Doctor, and myself, were domiciled at the Ranch. Having
the full range of the neighboring groves during the day, we had then no
occasion to use our single apartment, already partially occupied with
the culinary utensils and other wares of the family. But on retiring to
our hammocks at night, the scene presented was rather ludicrous. In the
same room allotted to us slept the keeper, his wife, and their numerous
progeny, with all the dogs and chickens of the household huddled
together in the most familiar manner. Notwithstanding, I will confess
that the arrangement was not altogether disagreeable to me, as in close
propinquity slept two of the prettiest damsels I had yet encountered in
that region, with eyes brilliant enough to render other light
superfluous. The only important hindrance to my nightly repose was the
occasional flapping of wings and the hourly crowing of our host’s
favorite gamecock, tied directly under my hammock, and who served for
clock and night-watchman to the establishment.
Agapito, our host, had an easy time as overseer of this domain, his only
occupation being from time to time to scour the savannas in search of
young foals which might have been attacked by the _gusano_. This is the
larvæ of a species of fly deposited in the umbilical cord of the new
born, and which, if not promptly removed, will eat into the very vitals.
It is fortunately not difficult to destroy them by the use of powdered
_cebadilla_, the seed of a liliaceous plant (Veratrum cebadilla)
abounding in veratrine. For this purpose, the keeper is always provided
with a horn filled with the poisonous drug, and a wooden spatula. With
the latter he digs out the worms and fills the wound with the powder to
prevent a renewal of their attacks.
Groves and meadows unequalled for their luxuriance and natural beauty
surrounded us on all sides, while numerous springs and rivulets, issuing
from the foot of the terrace-like _Mesas_, rushed down the declivity of
the plain, increasing the volume of the beautiful Guárico on whose banks
stood the primitive abode of our unsophisticated host. This river is
justly celebrated for the abundance and superiority of its fish; so,
without delay, providing myself with hook and line, I proceeded thither,
being anxious to procure specimens for my sketch-book, and also a
substitute for our daily fare of beef. But, strange to relate, each time
I dropped hook in the water, it was carried away in some mysterious
manner, without the least motion being imparted to the float. My tackle,
which I had brought from England, although arranged for fly-fishing, was
capable of bearing a fish of many pounds weight; but as I soon lost all
my stock in hand in the vain endeavor to secure my specimens, I gave up
in disgust and returned to the Ranch that the mystery might, if
possible, be explained. On seeing my slender lines, mine host with a
broad grin facetiously remarked that they were good to play at fishing
with, the only drawback to the amusement being that the _caribe_, a fish
not larger than a perch, would carry off all my playthings. Impossible,
said I; the lines are strong enough to lift you out of the water if
necessary; to this he quietly replied, directing my attention to a
mutilated finger of his right hand, “Do you see this? well, not long
ago I was washing my hands in the river after slaughtering a calf, when
a caribe darted at my finger and carried off a part before I was even
aware of his approach.” Here was a serious obstacle to my favorite
sport, and to the pleasure that Mr. Thomas and I had anticipated in
sketching the various kinds of fish peculiar to that region.
Fortunately, a short distance down the river was a fishing encampment
provided with all the necessary appliances for obtaining the fish in
large quantities. Of these we resolved to avail ourselves; but as
several others of our party were equally interested, our leader
despatched a messenger to the fishermen, inviting them to come up the
river with their nets, and fish in our presence. To this they readily
acceded, and soon after made their appearance paddling themselves over
the water in four large canoes laden, among other things, with their
_chinchorros_ or seines, which they at once proceeded to spread across
the stream, covering a deep _charco_ or pool known to contain abundance
of fish. Although the river at this season was very low, owing to the
usual summer drought, pools of considerable depth were left at
intervals, and in these the fish sought refuge in vast numbers from the
season’s heat and from the eager pursuit of the fishermen, of which the
latter sang, while spreading their seines, in the following lines:
Guavina le dijo á Bagre
Vámonos al caramero,
Porque ya viene el verano
Y nos coge el chinchorrero.
As the nets were dragged towards each other, the fish could be seen by
thousands moving within the space embraced by the seines. Indeed, so
numerous were they, that it soon became impossible to pull them in shore
without previously relieving them of a portion of their contents.
Accordingly, some of the men, armed with throw-nets, harpoons, and
_bicheros_--these last large hooks affixed to wooden handles--plunged
into the midst of the finny multitude, and commenced an onslaught on the
largest among them. Presently one of the men came out with a monstrous
fellow of the catfish tribe beautifully striped like a Bengal tiger, and
like him having a thick snout furnished with long barbs. This species is
called the _bagre rayado_ or striped catfish, and is much esteemed by
people of all classes as a substitute for beef during Lent. Large
quantities are salted and sent at that time to the capital and other
cities, where, under the name of _pescado llanero_, it forms one of the
delicacies of the season. Some of these fish attain an enormous size,
measuring five, six, and even seven feet in length, and are so fat that
a single one is a load for two men.
[Illustration]
In diving with the _bichero_, much caution was necessary on the part of
the men lest they should be hooked by their hasty companions in lieu of
the fish. A more important source of anxiety to the divers, was several
dangerous fish among the multitude struggling in the water, such as the
Ray-fish, whose tail is furnished with a sting three inches long, with
which it inflicts a very painful wound; Electric eels, whose touch alone
will paralyze in an instant the muscles of the strongest man; the
Payara, shaped somewhat like a sabre, and equally dangerous. The lower
jaw of this last is furnished with a formidable pair of fangs, not
unlike those of the rattlesnake; with these it inflicts as smooth a gash
as if cut with a razor; and finally, the _caribe_, whose ravenous and
bloodthirsty propensities have caused it to be likened to the cannibal
tribe of Indians, once the terror of those regions, but now scattered
over the towns and villages along the course of the Orinoco. Each time
the nets were hauled in shore, half a dozen or more of these little
pests were to be seen jumping in the crowd, their jaws wide open tearing
whatever came in their way, especially the meshes of the nets, which
they soon rendered useless. Their sharp triangular teeth, arranged in
the same manner as those of the shark, are so strong, that neither
copper, steel, nor twine can withstand them. The sight of any red
substance, blood especially, seems to rouse their sanguinary appetite;
and as they usually go in swarms, it is extremely dangerous for man or
beast to enter the water with even a scratch upon their bodies. Horses
wounded with the spur are particularly exposed to their attacks, and so
rapid is the work of destruction, that unless immediate assistance is
rendered, the fish soon penetrate the abdomen of the animal and
speedily reduce it to a skeleton; hence, doubtless, their appellation of
_mondonguero_--tripe-eater. There are other varieties of the _caribe_ in
the rivers of the Llanos, but none so bold and bloodthirsty as this
glutton of the waters. So abundant is this species in some rivers of the
Apure, that it is a common saying among Llaneros: “there is more
_caribe_ than water.”
[Illustration]
Every feature of this miniature cannibal denotes the ferocity and
sanguinary nature of its tastes. The piercing eye, surrounded by a
bloody-looking ring, is expressive of its cruel and bloodthirsty
disposition. Its under jaw, lined with a thick cartilaginous membrane
which adds greatly to its strength, protrudes considerably beyond the
upper, giving, as this formation of jaw does to all animals possessing
it, likewise an expression of ferocity. Large spots of a brilliant
orange hue cover a great portion of its body, especially the belly,
fins, and tail. Toward the back, it is of a bluish ash color, with a
slight tint of olive green, the intermediate spaces being of a pearly
white, while the gill-covers are tinged with red. The inhabitants being
often compelled to swim across streams infested with them, entertain
more fear of these little creatures than of that world-renowned monster,
the crocodile. This last, although a formidable antagonist in the water,
can be easily avoided and even conquered in single combat by daring men,
while the former, from their diminutive size and greater numbers, can do
more mischief in a short time than a legion of crocodiles.
The other kinds of caribe, although larger in size, are less dangerous
than the preceding, and some even perfectly harmless. Among these, the
black caribe of the Apure and Orinoco rivers is considered dainty
eating. The _caribito_ is also a harmless pretty little fish, with back
of a fine green color, and belly white with occasional streaks of pink.
In spite, however, of all these vicious creatures, and the great depth
of the water, the fishermen accomplished their work in a manner that
would have done credit to the fearless pearl-divers of the ocean, more
especially the swimmers, who are constantly in danger from some of the
fish while gliding through the water in their pursuit. Those in the
canoes were, of course, less liable to be attacked, although it often
happened that a _payara_, being peculiarly adapted for darting out of
the water, would clear the nets with a spring and fall in the midst of
the paddlers, causing a momentary confusion among them. My attention was
particularly attracted to the skill of the men in throwing their hand
nets, sometimes lying on their stomach on the surface of the water,
their hands encumbered with the nets; others would stand perfectly
erect, half their bodies out of water, and without any footing to serve
them as _point d’appui_. In the same manner, those whose business it was
to drive the fish towards the seines, managed their huge batons, and all
apparently without the least inconvenience. Suddenly their labors were
interrupted by a serious obstacle in the shape of a _caiman_ or
alligator struggling hard between the nets to regain his freedom. Here
was a sufficient test of the courage and ability of the fishers. If the
monster remained, he would not only endanger the nets, but also the
progress of the men through the water, they being liable at any moment
to come in contact with his powerful jaws. It was therefore decided to
get rid of the intruder at all hazards. To accomplish this, a lazo was
procured, and to the astonishment of all the _blancos_ present, a man
went down with it to the bottom in search of the monster, with the
avowed object of lazoing him under the water. After a few moments of, to
us, most anxious suspense, but which the hardy fishermen regarded as
child’s play, their companion rose to the surface panting for breath,
not yet having ascertained the precise position of his intended victim.
After inhaling sufficient air, the diver again disappeared, coming up in
due time with the glad tidings that the enemy was captured, in proof
whereof he handed us the other end of the lazo that we might drag him
out. This was no easy task, as these reptiles, by their peculiar
conformation, have immense power while under water, and it required the
united efforts of all on shore to land him. This accomplished, we were
perplexed in what manner to despatch him, as no steel instrument can
penetrate the thick cuirass of the _caiman_, except it be in the
armpits; but so violent were his struggles, that it was impossible to
strike him there. At last the Doctor, more sagacious than the rest of us
in anatomical operations, plunged a harpoon into the nape of the neck.
The effect was that of paralyzing at once the movements of the prisoner,
after which he was easily stabbed.
The manner in which our gallant diver accomplished his daring feat was
thus explained by his companions; the _caiman_, like the domestic hog,
is said to delight in being scratched about the ribs,[23] and of this
the diver perhaps availed himself in order to place the noose around his
neck, being very careful to approach him from behind, as it is a
well-known fact that these reptiles, owing to the nature of their collar
vertebræ, cannot easily turn round. The alligator is not so dangerous as
its congener the crocodile of the Orinoco and its tributaries; few real
crocodiles ever ascend the Guarico as far as San Pablo. However, a case
had occurred here not long before, when a man disappeared under rather
mysterious circumstances, and there was good reason to surmise that his
loss was due to one of these gentry. It appears that the seines, being
entangled around a snag at the bottom of the river, a man was, as usual,
sent to remove the obstruction; considerable time elapsing without his
reappearance, his comrades, seriously alarmed, instituted a diligent
search, but no vestige of the unfortunate man was ever discovered. It
never occurred to his friends that he might have fallen a prey to a
crocodile, and the calamity was universally ascribed to the supernatural
influence of some evil genii of the deep. From that time, the spot has
borne the ominous name of the _Encantado_ or haunted pool.
All obstructions to the progress of the nets were at length removed, and
a sufficient quantity of fish having been taken therefrom, we all
assisted in pulling them in, and a few moments afterwards had the
satisfaction of beholding the sand banks on which we were, strewn with
the proceeds of the two seines.
It would be impossible to convey an adequate idea of the singular forms
and brilliant hues of most of these fish, all new to me. The _Cherna_,
in particular, attracted my attention from their abundance and peculiar
formation. Some attain a large size, weighing as much as a hundred
pounds, and their flesh is so delicate as to deserve the appellation of
river veal. The mouth is comparatively small, and set with a row of
teeth bearing a strong resemblance to those of the human species.
The fishing having been solely for our amusement, and more game obtained
than we required for our consumption, some was distributed among the
people of the neighborhood who had collected to witness the sport, and
the remainder given to the fishermen, who received besides a handsome
compensation for their trouble in coming so far from their encampment.
During the distribution of the fish, a singular incident took place
which illustrates at once the tenacity of life with which reptiles are
endowed, and the electrical powers of that most singular creature, the
gymnotus or electric eel. A boy had discovered one of these among the
heap of fish on the beach, and was dragging it along by means of a
_bichero_ to avoid the shocks, when the body of the eel came
accidentally in contact with the carcass of the _caiman_. This last,
which, after the rough treatment it had received from our medical
adviser, was supposed to be quite dead, much to the surprise of all,
opened his huge jaws and closed them with a loud crash. The Doctor,
especially, who, from his professional knowledge in surgical operations,
had pronounced it beyond recovery, was the loudest in his expressions of
astonishment at this unexpected turn. It was, however, merely a
convulsive movement, induced by contact with the eel, and similar to
that produced on the limbs of a frog by a galvanic current; for,
afterward, the reptile remained without further signs of returning life.
Science will, ere long, take advantage of the electric eel.
[Illustration]
I would here most willingly entertain my readers with an account of the
nature and habits of these “animal electrical machines,” had not the
great Humboldt already elucidated the subject in the most comprehensive
and brilliant manner. To his admirable works I will therefore refer the
reader for a full and graphic description of this, one of the most
curious of fish. It was in one of the numerous tributary creeks of this
river, that the distinguished traveller procured the gymnoti for his
experiments; perhaps from amongst the progenitors of the above
mentioned. The manner in which they were obtained differed somewhat,
however, from the one adopted by us on this occasion. Knowing how
difficult it was to catch these eels on account of their extreme agility
and powerful electrical discharges, the guides collected in the savannas
a drove of wild horses, which they forced into a pool of water abounding
in gymnoti. “The extraordinary noise caused by the horses’ hoofs makes
the fish issue from the mud and excites them to attack. The yellowish
and livid eels, resembling large aquatic serpents, swim on the surface
of the water and crowd under the bellies of the horses and mules. A
contest between animals of so different an organization presents a very
striking spectacle. The Indians, provided with harpoons and long slender
reeds, surround the pool closely, and some climb up the trees, the
branches of which extend horizontally over the surface of the water. By
their wild cries, and the length of their reeds, they prevent the horses
from running away and reaching the bank of the pool. The eels, stunned
by the noise, defend themselves by the repeated discharge of their
electric batteries. For a long interval they seem likely to prove
victorious. Several horses sink beneath the violence of the invisible
strokes which they receive from all sides in organs the most essential
to life; and stunned by the force and frequency of the shocks, they
disappear under water.”
“I wish,” adds the traveller, “that a clever artist could have depicted
the most animated period of the attack; the group of Indians surrounding
the pond, the horses with their manes erect and eyeballs wild with pain
and fright, striving to escape from the electric storm which they had
roused, and driven back by the shouts and long whips of the excited
Indians; the livid yellow eels, like great water snakes, swimming near
the surface and pursuing their enemy; all these objects presented a most
picturesque and exciting ‘ensemble.’ In less than five minutes two
horses were killed; the eel, being more than five feet in length, glides
beneath the body of the horse and discharges the whole length of its
electric organ. It attacks, at the same time, the heart, the digestive
viscera, and the cœliac fold of the abdominal nerves. I thought the
scene would have a tragic termination, and expected to see most of the
quadrupeds killed; but the Indians assured me that the fishing would
soon be finished, and that only the first attack of the gymnoti was
really formidable. In fact, after the conflict had lasted a quarter of
an hour, the mules and horses appeared less alarmed; they no longer
erected their manes, and their eyes expressed less pain and terror. One
no longer saw them struck down in the water, and the eels, instead of
swimming to the attack, retreated from their assailants and approached
the shore. The Indians now began to use their missiles; and by means of
the long cord attached to the harpoon, jerked the fish out of the water
without receiving any shock so long as the cord was dry.”
The electric eel, although much dreaded by man, is greatly esteemed by
gourmands. It is necessary, however, to deprive the fish of those parts
constituting the electrical apparatus, which are rather spongy and
unpalatable. So perfect a machine is this curious organ, that Faraday
succeeded--by insulation of the animal electricity and a most ingenious
apparatus devised by him--in obtaining a spark with which he ignited a
spoonful of gunpowder. But there are several varieties of the fish which
do not possess this peculiarity.
Among the promiscuous assemblage of fish scattered on the sand beach,
ready to transfix the hand that might inadvertently touch them, were
many sting-rays. This species, like its prototype the famous Manta-fish
of the Caribbean Sea, is quite circular and flat, with a tail over a
foot in length, very thick at the base and tapering towards the end.
Near the middle on the upper part, it is armed with a long and
sharp-pointed bone or sting, finely serrated on two sides, which the
fish can raise or lay flat at will. When disturbed, the ray, by a quick
movement of the tail, directs its sting towards the object, which it
seldom fails to reach. The wound thus inflicted is so severe, that the
whole nervous system is convulsed, the person becoming rigid and
benumbed in a few moments. Even long after the violent effects of the
wound have subsided, the part affected retains a sluggish ulceration,
which has in many instances baffled the skill of the best surgeons. Some
creeks and lagoons of stagnant water are so infested with them, that it
is almost certain destruction to venture into them. They usually
frequent the shallow banks of muddy pools, where they may be seen at all
times watching for prey; and, as if conscious of their powers, scarcely
deign to move off when approached by man. They, also, are considered
good eating, on which account they frequently fall a prey to hungry boys
and vultures, who wage constant war upon them with spear and talon.
* * * * *
Mr. Thomas and I had plenty of occupation in sketching the various
specimens before us; but the speedy approach of night compelled us to
relinquish our agreeable pastime; thus many curious fish which we would
have liked to preserve, had to be consigned to the frying-pan instead of
to our portfolios.
In the mean time our able cook, Mónico, and half a dozen of Llanero
assistants--all of whom are more or less accomplished in the art of
cooking in their own peculiar style--were busily engaged throughout the
afternoon preparing the spoils of the day for our supper. A fat calf was
also killed in honor of the occasion, and roasted before a blazing fire
under the trees. The Llaneros are quite skilled in roasting an ox or
calf, which they divide in sections according to the flavor of each
particular morceau. These they string upon long wooden spits, and keep
them turning before the fire until sufficiently cooked. The ribs of the
animal, taken out entire, usually form the most favorite morsel; but I
would recommend to future travellers in that country the _entreverado_,
made up of the animal’s entrails, such as the liver, heart, lungs, and
kidneys, cut into pieces of convenient size and spitted; then enveloped
in the fat mesenteric membrane of the animal, and cooked in its own
juices.
In addition to this abundant supply of _carne asada_, we had fish in
every style, smoked, broiled, _en sancocho_, (bouilli,) &c., with plenty
of bread prepared by the wife and daughters of our equerry. Just as
every one had eaten, as he supposed, his fill, one of our assistants
made his appearance bending under the weight of a boiling caldron
containing a rich bouilli of cherna heads, and urged us to partake of
his humble fare. Although this was rather reversing the order of
courses, we were finally prevailed upon to _taste_ the soup he had
prepared with so much care for us; and no sooner was the rich broth
tasted by our epicurean party, than it was forthwith devoured with
unimpaired appetites; but my enjoyment of the broth was somewhat spoiled
by coming in contact with a row of omniverous-looking teeth, which so
reminded me of a human skull, that I was constrained to throw my portion
away, although I must confess that I never tasted soup superior to it.